Bandana Cowl In Plenty
Sometimes you want all the snappy style of a bandana without the fuss of knots and folds, one that stays in place and drapes perfectly without your having to fiddle with it. We’re happy to report that our Bandana Cowl fills the bill!
You knit this one in the round, starting with a garter stitch edge, then using a center double decrease and some short rows to shape the point that makes a bandana a bandana. Some simple decreases on the way to the top ensure a cozy fit!
The Bandana Cowl has been a favorite pattern of ours for years, and we’re revisiting it now to give it the very special Plenty treatment. As un-scratchy as wool gets, this 100% extra fine merino is soft and squishy with a distinctive spin and very lively bounce.
Oh, and it only takes one skein of Plenty to whip up a Bandana Cowl… Casting on now!
UPDATE: BANDANA COWL IN NEW COLORS + STYLES!
SEPTEMBER 2022
Plenty has so many beautiful colors, we whipped up Bandana Cowls in every one, plus four new colorplay versions, too: Breton Stripes, Transitional Stripes, Colorblock, and even a duplicate stitch Monogram, so you can bring your A game to this knit! (Or your B game!) Cast on to find out why the Bandana Cowl is still one of our most popular knits!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoBandanaCowl and #PurlSohoPlenty. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Plenty, 100% extra fine merino wool. Each skein is 139 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 139 yards required. We used the colors Red Plum and Ash Gray.
- US 10 (6.0 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- Stitch markers
GAUGE
16 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
NOTE: We used a full skein to make this cowl. To avoid running short, please re-use your swatch yarn, double check your gauge, and be conservative with tails!
SIZE
Finished Neck Opening: 17¼ inches circumference, comfortably stretching up to 5 inches
Finished Height From Point: 13½ inches
NOTES
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS
Slip Slip Knit Pass (S2KP)
Slip 2 stitches together knitwise with yarn in back, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knit stitch. [2 stitches decreased]
For more help with this technique, please visit our Slip Slip Knit Pass tutorial.
SHORT ROW SHAPING: WRAP AND TURN (WRP-T)
On the right side: Keeping yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to front. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to back. Turn work so wrong side is facing you.
On the wrong side: Keeping yarn in front, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to back. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to front. Turn work so right side is facing you.
For a step-by-step video and photo tutorial of how to work this technique, including how to work wrapped stitches with their wraps, please visit our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn Tutorial tutorial.
PATTERN
BEGIN
Cast on 89 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place marker (pm) and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Round 1: Purl to end of round.
Round 2: K43, s2kp (see Special Instructions, above), knit to end of round. [87 stitches]
Round 3: P42, s2kp, purl to end of round. [85 stitches]
Round 4: K41, s2kp, knit to end of round. [83 stitches]
Round 5: P40, s2kp, purl to end of round. [81 stitches]
WORK BANDANA POINT
NOTE: In this section you will be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work partway through each row. For extra help, see Special Instructions.
Short Row 1 (right side): K42, wrp-t (see Special Instructions).
Short Row 2 (wrong side): P3, wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1, wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p1, wrp-t.
Repeat Short Rows 3 and 4 eighteen more times. (Don’t worry if you lose count; you’ll know you’re done when you wrap and turn the stitches right next to the marker!)
Next Round (partial round): Knit to end of round, knitting wrapped stitch with its wrap.
Now working in the round again, knit 2 rounds even, knitting remaining wrapped stitch with its wrap.
DECREASE TO TOP
Set-Up Round: K18, pm, k45, pm, knit to end of round.
Decrease Round: Knit to 2 stitches before first marker, knit 2 together, slip marker (sm), knit to next marker, sm, slip slip knit, knit to end of round. [2 stitches decreased]
Continuing in stockinette stitch (knitting each round), repeat Decrease Round every 4th round 5 more times, then knit 3 rounds even. [69 stitches remain]
Next Round: Purl to end of round.
Next Round: Knit to end of round.
Repeat last 2 rounds one more time.
Bind off very loosely, purlwise.
FINISHING
Weave in ends and gently wet block.
is there a cotton that would work with this pattern
Hi Robin,
Thanks for reaching out. Blue Sky Fibers’s Worsted Cotton (which is 100% cotton), Lantern (which is linen-wrapped cotton), and Campo (which is 50% cotton and 50% wool) would all work amazingly for this pattern! As always, we recommend making a gauge swatch before starting a project to be sure you’re working with the right needles, especially when substituting yarns. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
What if you would like to knit it flat Do you have instructions for that? Thank-you.
Hi Char,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m afraid that we haven’t created a version of this pattern that’s knit flat. But I think that’s a great idea, so please let us know how it goes if you end up trying it out!
All the best,
Lili
Last time I made the Bandana Cowl, it was too small for my 22 inch head. Any suggestions on how to make it wider?
Hi Sandy,
Thanks for reaching out. To make this cowl larger, you can cast on more stitches at the beginning! You can figure out how many stitches you’ll need in total by first knitting a gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest odd number.
Then, you can essentially follow the pattern as written, but keep in mind that the specific stitch counts given on each row are meant for a cast-on of 89, and won’t work for the number you cast on. However, you can think of them as in relation to the total stitch count. So for example, on Round 1, the 43 knit stitches is (89-3)/2. You can figure out how many stitches you need to knit on this round by subtracting 3 from your total stitch count and dividing the resulting number by 2.
One final thing to consider is that this pattern, as written, uses nearly a full skein of Plenty! So you will definitely need to use 2 skeins in order to make it larger. I hope this information is helpful as you plan your project!
All the best,
Lili
I love this-could someone please convert the pattern for crochet?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for writing in. I think a crochet version of this cowl would be lovely! I’m going to go ahead and pass along your suggestion, and we’ll keep it in mind for the future. Thank you again for sharing your idea!
All the best,
Lili
I LOVE THIS COWL! I have made it dozens of times. I first started making them when I was a beginner knitter and I made myself a cheat sheet for the short rows. After a bit I could do them in my sleep. This makes a fantastic gift. I started making them in acrylic yarns and then graduated to alpaca. Just the best pattern ever for a quick knit project that is easy, fun to give and to receive or to keep for yourself! This Plenty yarn certainly looks inviting!
I have loved this cowl for ages but short rows scare me! Maybe I should give it a try!
Hi Susan!
We’re glad to hear you have had your eye on this cowl! We plan to offer many resources like Zoom + Knits throughout the knit-along to help you knit these short rows with confidence, however if you’re looking for some help in the meantime, we have a thorough tutorial for Wrap + Turn Short Rows.
We hope you decide to cast on a cowl of your own, and we’re always here to answer any questions you may have!
All the best,
Margaret
I made t6his cowl years ago and it came out great. Now I am struggling with the s2kp. On the purl side you still doit as a s2kp?
ty for your help
Hi Roberta,
Thanks for writing in. In this pattern, the s2kp is only worked on the right side of the work! Even though you’re purling most of the stitches on Rounds 3 and 5, you’ll still work the s2kp as normal. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
This is really stupid question but I don’t knit much. The Bandana Cowl pattern says to start with the edging and then directions for short row section. The section called Bandana Point is clear – you only knit/purl a few stitches after wrap and turn. But the tutorial says to do the W&T THEN knit/or purl to end of row.
So in that B. Point section, you’re only doing a W&T and knitting 1-3 stitches before W&T again, not working to end of row. Is that correct? Or am I supposed to complete the row after W&T. Otherwise you’re W&Ting every three or so stitches. I need help!
Hi Cheryl,
Thanks for reaching out. In this pattern, after beginning the short row section, you will not be asked to complete a round until Next Round (partial round)! Just follow the instructions on each short row by knitting (or purling) the indicated number of stitches and then working the wrap + turn. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
My 3 years old son fell in love with this cowl and he would like that I knit one for him! Could you please provide us with the pattern for kids size? Thanks!
Hi Laetitia,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m sorry to say that we have not made this design in kids’ sizes yet, but that’s a great idea! I’ll pass along your suggestion to see if it’s something we could add in the future.
All the best,
Lili
I am with Cheryl. I have looked at the tutorials and the wrap and turns are not working for me. I am so discouraged I am putting the knitting in the closet for a while. It seems like such a simple pattern for 1 ball of yarn, but I hate to say I’m giving up.
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m sorry to hear that you’re having trouble with wrap + turn short rows! I’d be happy to help clarify that technique for you. Is there anything in particular that is giving you difficulty?
Alternatively, many knitters find German short rows easier to do, and you can absolutely substitute them in in place of the wrap + turns! To do so, you would just need to knit one additional stitch before making the double stitch. So for example, if the pattern says “knit 3 stitches, wrap and turn,” you’ll actually need to “knit 4 stitches, make double stitch.”
I’ll keep an eye out for your reply, and I’d be happy to go more into depth explaining wrap + turns!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
Thank you for your reply. I went to a yarn shop and took a lesson. It is figured out and it came out great. I honestly didn’t realize you offered support or I would have set something up. That is a great offer and most appreciated. Thanks for taking care of us ! 🙂
So im working on the BP. How do
I know which one is the wrapped stitch? Ie: in short row #3 (1 of 18 repeat) would it be the first stitch after 1 knit stitch? Its hard to tell.
Hi Jen!
Thank you for writing to us! The wrapped stitch is the stitch with a loop of yarn running perpendicular to the live stitch. In Short Row 3, the wrapped stitch will be the fourth stitch in your short row, which was the initial wrap and turn from Short Row 1. These wrap and turns are often quite obvious, however one idea is to use a removable stitch marker on the wrap and turn to help indicate which stitch is the wrapped stitch more easily!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
I have a few skeins of Mulberry Merino that would be perfect for this pattern. Looking forward to 13 October.
Hi Hollis!
Thank you for your interest in our next Knit-Along! Since Mulberry Merino is a sportweight yarn, it is unfortunately too thin to use for this pattern’s gauge, so we suggest using a heavy worsted weight yarn like Plenty instead! Alternatively, you may be able to meet gauge by holding two strands of Mulberry Merino together with a larger needle like a US 8 or 9. We always recommend making a gauge swatch before starting a project, especially when substituting yarns! In this case specifically, I highly suggest making a gauge swatch holding Mulberry Merino doubled to see if you can reach 16 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch.
I hope this helps you find the best yarn for your cowl!
All the best,
Margaret
Do you have instructions for adding an initial? In your ad there is a pink cowl with the initial B. Is it added with a duplicate stitch or stitched in as you knit?
Hi Michelle!
Thank you for asking about this cowl! We used duplicate stitch to add an initial to the cowl in the photograph. If you’re interested in adding your own initial, you can find charts and some helpful tips in our Duplicate Stitch Tutorial!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Cheers all even with all those W/T’s going to do my best to complete
I have done my best to read each comment so I hope this isn’t a repeated question How can u Print this pattern without all the extra photos etc
Seems unnecessary and paste of paper
Use to have the option just print pattern now its more difficult for me anyway to figure it out your help is very much appreciated
Good luck enjoy creating all
Hi Kim!
Thank you for your question! To print this pattern, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button on the desktop version of the website. (If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.) After clicking this button, a dialog box should appear with a preview of the pattern. To remove the photos, you can click the drop down next to the image icon along the top toolbar and change it from 100% to 0%. You can also hover your mouse over any portions of the pattern you wish to delete, and click the trash can icon that appears! Then, you can click “Print” or “PDF” along the top left of the pattern preview box to print or save the pattern.
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Hello! I am more of a beginner knitter. I am working my way through the Bandana Cowl pattern for the KAL but I’m already stuck at row 3.
Here is what the pattern says to do at row 3:
Round 3: P42, s2kp, purl to end of round. [85 stitches]
I watched the recommended s2kp video for row 2 and had no problem with that. Here is the video I watched:
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/slip-slip-knit-pass-s2kp/?utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Join%20Us%20For%20The%20Big%20Day…%20We%27re%20Casting%20On%20Our%20Bandana%20Cowls&utm_term=Bandana%20Cowl%20KAL
However, when I came to row 3, I purled 42 stitches BUT hesitated because in the video, the knitter stopped 1 stitch BEFORE where she placed a stitch marker for the previous s2kp stitch and included that stitch with the next stitch together as part of her s2 in the s2kp. Am I supposed to be doing that? Though it would mean I stop purling at 41 ( instead of p42), but slip stitch 42 with 43, knit 1, then pass over the 2 stitches… or do I purl 42 stitches and then proceed with my s2kp as the pattern says. I’m confused because the s2kp video clearly shows that you are supposed to stop 1 stitch before. Thank you so much for the help. I’m excited to get over this hump because the Bandana Cowl is really cute.
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for writing in to check! The way the pattern is written, it takes the central placement of the s2kp into account already, so you can just purl 42 stitches and then work the decrease. Hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
I’m having trouble where it says to begin working in the round again, knitting final wrapped stitch with its wrap. This is the first stitch after the marker, right? And how do you wrap it on the knit side (since it was wrapped as a pearl)? I’m not seeing the wrap the same way it was appearing on the knit side. Thank you!
Hi Erin,
That’s a great observation, and there is in fact a particular way to pick up a purl-wrapped stitch from the knit side! There’s a demonstration of this in our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn tutorial. The written instructions are located at the very bottom of the post, and the video demonstration begins at about 5:04. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I made the bandana cowl YEARS ago and loved it! Now doing this for the KAL! However, I am having trouble with the short row section. I understand how to do the short rows but I seem to be off-center. It looks correct but you can tell there are more stitches to the right than to the left and it is not lining up with the point. Is there a chart and how different is this pattern from the original?
Hi Irene,
Thanks for reaching out. While there is no chart for this pattern, I can absolutely help you out through written instructions! The pattern is actually exactly the same as the original version.
Since you’re noticing that the bandana point seems to be off-center, it’s likely that you’re working the wrap + turns in slightly different locations on each side. Each wrap should be worked on the second stitch after the previous wrapped stitch (that you just knit with its wrap). So there should be one plain knit stitch after this, and then you work the new wrap + turn on the next stitch. Alternatively, you may have worked the first wrap + turn in the wrong spot, meaning that everything is shifted over a few stitches. If you send a photo of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com, we can take a closer look!
All the best,
Lili
Sorry for the double post, wanted to make sure this was read. The tutorial for the German Short Row, after you turn and complete the double stitch, has you either pearl or knit back across the row. Is that what I should be doing? Or once the double stitch is completed do I begin instructions for the next row? I did the former, going back across the row before moving to the next row, and ended up with a very oddly shaped cowl. I ripped it all out but do not want to start again until I have a clear instruction on the German short row that works for this cowl. Thank you so much.
Hi Laurie,
I just saw this second comment! Now I think I understand your question better: After you complete the double stitch for Short Row 1 (for example), you will be in position to begin Short Row 2 right away. Each short row is just once across–either all knit stitches or all purl stitches! Hope this helps clarify things for you as you restart.
All the best,
Lili
Ah, ok thank you so much!! This clarifies it for me!!!
Hi! Is there a way to quickly figure out how to reduce the stitch number or something in order to make a little smaller for a child? Looking forward to the knit along!
Hi Kim,
Thanks for writing in! You can definitely make this pattern a bit smaller to fit a child. To figure out your cast-on number, you can multiply the number of stitches per inch (4) by the circumference that you would like and cast on the nearest 4 + 1. Then you can follow the pattern as written! You may also want to reduce the height of the cowl, so to do that, just knit fewer rounds in the DECREASE TO TOP section. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hello:
Your pattern mentions using extra fine yarn. Would superfine yarn work as well? if
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out. You can use any fiber content you’d like for this pattern! Just make sure that you’re using a worsted weight yarn, so that you can achieve the correct gauge for the design. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I have re-started 3 or 4 times. Do you finish the round 1 in the Bandana Point by turning and going all the way back over what has just been knit. The instructions are: (RS) knit 42 wrap-t. Do you finish the round or go on to round 2 on the WS .
Hi Julie,
Thanks for reaching out. Since these are short rows, you will not continue in the round until the end of the short row section! On Short Row 1, you will knit 42 stitches, work the wrap + turn, and then you will be in the exact position to begin Short Row 2 on the wrong side. You will work back and forth in short rows, each one slightly longer than the next, until you’ve wrapped the stitches right next to the end-of-round marker. If this is daunting, we have a wonderful tutorial on wrap + turn short rows, which you can find right here. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Just finished my third Bandana Cowl, and I always end up with a “keyhole” at center back. In retrospect, it does make sense bc of how the pattern is written. Is there anything that I can do to eliminate this, or correct it?
Hi Nancy,
I’d be happy to help figure out how to get rid of the extra large gap at the back of your cowls! The gap is occurring because you have two wrapped stitches (or two double stitches) right next to each other, one on either side of the end-of-round marker, and because of this placement, the tension of each stitch naturally gets a bit skewed.
Fortunately, though, there’s a great way to fix this tension imbalance! Just tug gently on one of the loose legs until the extra yarn is distributed throughout the adjacent stitches. That should tighten up the gap considerably and help it blend in with the rest of the stitches. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
My cowl was too long (18inches). My gauge was good. Only difference was I used German short rows instead of wrap and turn. Did that cause the problem?
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for writing in, although I’m sorry to hear that your cowl turned out too long! It sounds like you may have worked too many short rows. When substituting German short rows in place of wrap + turn short rows, you’ll need to work one additional stitch before creating the double stitch. So if the pattern reads “Short Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1, wrp-t,” you should actually do “Short Row 3: Knit to double stitch, knit double stitch as single stitch, k2, make double stitch.” Working the same amount of stitches before creating the double stitch will cause you to have twice the number of short rows as intended, making your cowl that much longer.
I also wanted to let you know that we’ve recently written up a new version of this pattern that includes separate instructions for German short rows! You can check that out here, if you’re interested. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thank for the explanation, Lili. I will try that on my next cowl.
Hello, I think I have the same problem as Nancy — I used German short rows, and now my work is measuring 16 inches from the point to the live stitches, which are just prior to the set row for decreases. Also: can you tell me the total number of stitches that I should have as I begin the set-up round in the section titled “Decrease to top”? I see that it says “K18, pm, K45, pm, knit to end of round.”
But I only have a total of 61 stitches in this row, so I think that won’t work. I am guessing this is also because of the problem due to the German short rows?
Finally: any thoughts on how I might salvage the work I have rather than starting over?
Thanks!
Rachel
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for writing in! I’m not sure if you’ve seen yet, but I just wrote back to Nancy! I’ll copy what I mentioned to her below, for reference:
It sounds like you may have worked too many short rows. When substituting German short rows in place of wrap + turn short rows, you’ll need to work one additional stitch before creating the double stitch. So if the pattern reads “Short Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1, wrp-t,” you should actually do “Short Row 3: Knit to double stitch, knit double stitch as single stitch, k2, make double stitch.” Working the same amount of stitches before creating the double stitch will cause you to have twice the number of short rows as intended, making your cowl that much longer.
I also wanted to let you know that we’ve recently written up a new version of this pattern that includes separate instructions for German short rows! You can check that out here, if you’re interested.
In answer to your question about the stitch count, you should still have 81 stitches at this point! This is because you have decreased from 89 to 81 at the very beginning by working the s2kp decreases, and short rows do not change your stitch count at all. It’s definitely concerning that you only have 61 though! Did you begin with the full 89 stitches? Or had you modified your stitch count to make a smaller cowl? Let me know, and then I can troubleshoot from there!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili, thanks for your reply. I did start with 89. I have no idea how I got to so few stitches! Lol. Sounds like I just need to start over, no?
Hi Rachel,
Thanks so much for reaching out! When you were knitting or purling the “double stitch” during the short rows section, were you working just the double stitch or perhaps including a stitch next to it as well? If you’re doing GSRs, you would be working the double stitch 20 times so there’s a chance that might have reduced your stitch count if you were decreasing each time! Please feel free to write us at customerservice@purlsoho.com and send a photo of your work as well and we’d be more than happy to keep looking into this over there!
I’m afraid it sounds like you do need to pull back your work and start from the beginning though. If you don’t want to unravel your project entirely, you can thread the 81 stitches right before the short rows section with some scrap yarn and when you unravel your work, those stitches will still be on the scrap yarn and you can transfer those to your needles. Otherwise, you can just pull back completely and go from there!
I hope this helps! Please let us know if we can help with anything else.
All the best,
Cat
I love the Bandana Cowl, and these gorgeous colors in Plenty are giving me all the feels.
Is there a way to alter the pattern to offer a toddler sized version? I’d love to make one for my 2-year old as it is perfect to keep littles warm without the bulk of a proper scarf. Any chance for a pattern update…? I, unfortunately don’t have the skills in knitting or math to make the
adjustments myself 😀
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m afraid that we haven’t made a toddler-sized version of this cowl yet though! But I’d be happy to help you with the adjustments. If you let me know how wide you’d like the circumference of the cowl to be, I can tell you exactly how many stitches to cast on, as well as other modifications I’d recommend making!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lili!
I really appreciate the help 🙂 If I measure against my current bandana
cowl (which is 9″ wide) I’d be looking for a version that is only 7″ wide to
fit the Little One. I’m in awe of your expertise!
Cheers,
Lauren
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for letting me know! I would recommend beginning with a cast-on of 73 stitches. Then, you can essentially work the BEGIN section as written, but placing your stitch marker after only 35 stitches instead of 43. For the WORK BANDANA POINT section, you can also pretty much do this as written, but you’ll need to work fewer repeats of Short Rows 3 and 4 before you’ll wrap the stitches next to the end-of-round marker.
The final little changes I would recommend making are placing your stitch markers for the DECREASE TO TOP section closer together and also working fewer rounds between Decrease Rounds. This will just make the smaller cowl more proportional to the original size! I’d suggest placing the first stitch marker after 16 stitches, knitting 37 stitches, and then placing the second marker. Then maybe only 2 regular rounds between each Decrease Round, but this is something you can play around with to see what works best!
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you!
This is perfect and I can’t wait to give it a try 🙂
I really appreciate you taking the time to walk me through these
adjustments.
Have a great week!
Lauren
You’re very welcome, Lauren!
All the best,
Lili
Hi iam newish to knitting what do you do after begin row 5 do you knit to the lengh you want and then do the point rows
Hi Pamela,
Thanks for reaching out. This cowl is knit from the bottom-up, so after you’ve finished Round 5, you will move onto the very next section of the pattern, which is WORK BANDANA POINT. In this section, you will work back and forth in short rows to create the pointed bottom of the cowl! If you’re unfamiliar with the short row technique, then I’d recommend taking a look at our tutorial. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili