Bobble Sheep Pillow in Super Soft Merino
I guess it isn’t surprising that a knitter has an affinity for sheep. Obviously, some sort of kinship must exist with the animal whose wool provides daily enjoyment (and employment!). So as predictable as it may be, I will say it anyway… I love sheep. They are funny creatures with a neurotic voice and a body perfect for graphic adaptation.
I love their bulbous bellies and knobbly knees, their googly eyes and pointy ears. I love how they amble about in groups, looking like earth-bound clouds. And it goes without saying, I love what they gift us… don’t worry, I’m not about to type “mutton.” I mean, of course, their wool!
A dear friend pointed out that it may be a bit snake-eating-its-own-tail, but anyway, I had to make one… I had to make a sheep, made out of sheep.
Incredibly soft to the touch, Purl Soho’s Super Soft Merino could not have been more appropriate for this project, right down to its color name, Heirloom White. Your own Bobble Sheep Pillow is sure to be loved by many generations to come! -Laura
Update: New Yarn + Size
February 29, 2016
Being the sheep fanatics that we are, we couldn’t resist making more Bobble Sheep, this time in our incredibly soft jumbo weight Gentle Giant merino. For the list of materials, as well as tips on modifying the pattern, visit our Bobble Sheep Pillow in Gentle Giant post.
UPDATE: NOW IN PARTRIDGE
MARCH 2022
We’ve added a new lamb-sized sheep to our flock… the Bobble Sheep in Partridge! For such a huggable project, soft and squishy Partridge is an excellent choice. A worsted-weight single ply of incredibly sumptuous 100% merino wool, Partridge is thinner than either of our previous versions and knits up a more diminutive sheep. Pick up a Bobble Sheep Pillow Bundle in Partridge and add a new baby lamb to your happy pillow-flock!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoBobbleSheepPillow, #PurlSohoSuperSoftMerino and #PurlSohoSeasonAlpaca. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
Get all the yarn you’ll need to make your own Bobble Sheep Pillow with the Bobble Sheep Pillow Bundle. It includes…
- Main Yarn: 4 skeins of Purl Soho’s Super Soft Merino, 100% merino wool. Each skein is 87 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 348 yards required. We used the color Heirloom White, Toasted Charcoal or Soft Black.
- Contrast Yarn: 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Season Alpaca, 100% super baby alpaca. Each skein is 218 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 110 yards required. We used the color River Rock. (Please Note: Our original Bobble Sheep featured Blue Sky Fiber’s Sport Weight Alpaca, which is no longer available.)
You’ll also need…
- US 11 (8 mm), 16 or 24-inch circular needles
- Set of US 11 double pointed needles
- Set of US 3 (3.25 mm) double pointed needles
- 1 bag of Fairfield’s Poly-fil Stuffing
- Scrap yarn (bulky weight) and crochet hook to match (for provisional cast on)
Gauge
12 stitches = 4 inches in garter stitch with Main Yarn on larger needle
28 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette with Contrast Yarn on smaller needle
Size
19 inches wide (from chest to rear) x 14 inches tall (from top of back to bottom of belly)
Notes
k3tog [knit 3 together]: This is a right-slanting double decrease. Insert right needle into next three stitches as if to knit, knit all three stitches together as if they were one stitch. [2 stitches decreased]
MB [Make Bobble]: Knit into the next stitch, leaving it on the left needle, [(yarn over, knit 1) into same stitch] two times. Turn work so wrong side is facing you, k5; turn work so right side is facing you, k2tog; return stitch to left needle, slip remaining three stitches of bobble over the k2tog stitch, knit that stitch, returning it to the right needle. For a full-photo tutorial on how to make this particular bobble, please click here.
sk2p [slip 1, k2tog, psso]: This is a left-slanting double decrease. Slip 1 purlwise, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch and off the needle. [2 stitches decreased]
Pattern
Body
Begin at the Belly
With the crochet hook and scrap yarn use a Provisional Cast On method to cast 46 stitches onto the larger double pointed needles.
Distribute the stitches on three double pointed needles, place a marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches. Join Main Yarn and…
Round 1: Knit.
Round 2: [P21, place a marker that is a different color than the end-of-the-round marker, k2] two times.
Round 3: Knit.
Round 4: [Purl to next marker, slip marker (sm), k2] two times.
Increase to Shape the Body
NOTE: Change to circular needles when necessary.
Increasing every round…
Round 5: [M1L, k2, *make bobble (MB, see Notes), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches increased]
Round 6: [M1L, purl to next marker, m1R, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches increased]
Repeat Rounds 5 and 6 three more times. [78 stitches]
Increasing every other round…
Round 7: [K2, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k2] two times.
Round 8: [M1L, purl to next marker, m1R, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches increased]
Round 9: [K1, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, MB, k1, sm, k2] two times.
Round 10: Repeat Round 8.
Round 11: [*MB, k3, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, sm, k2] two times.
Round 12: Repeat Round 8.
Round 13: [K3, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 4 stitches before next marker, MB, k3, sm, k2] two times.
Round 14: Repeat Round 8. [94 stitches]
Work Evenly
Round 15: [K2, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k2] two times.
Round 16: [Purl to next marker, sm, k2] two times.
Round 17: [*MB, k3, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, sm, k2] two times.
Round 18: Repeat Round 16.
Repeat Rounds 15-18 two more times.
Decrease for Neck and Tail
NOTE: Change to double pointed needles when necessary.
Round 19: K2, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, sk2p (see Notes), sm, k2, k3tog (see Notes), **k3, MB, repeat from ** to 2 stitches before next marker, k2, sm, k2. [90 stitches, 4 stitches decreased at head]
Round 20: K2tog, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, sk2p, sm, k2, k3tog, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2. [6 stitches decreased: 2 at tail, 4 at head]
Round 21: K3, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 5 stitches before next marker, MB, k1, sk2p, sm, k2, k3tog, k1, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 4 stitches before next marker, MB, k3, sm, k2. [80 stitches, 4 stitches decreased at head]
Round 22: Repeat Round 20. [74 stitches]
Round 23: *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k4, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, sm, k2.
Round 24: [K2tog, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches decreased: 2 at tail, 2 at head]
Round 25: K1, *MB, k3, repeat from * to next marker, sm, k5, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 2 stitches before next marker, MB, k1, sm, k2.
Round 26: Repeat Round 24. [66 stitches]
Round 27: K2tog, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, sm, k2, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, ssk, sm, k2. [64 stitches, 2 stitches decreased at tail]
Round 28: Repeat Round 24. [60 stitches]
Round 29: K2tog, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, MB, k1, sm, **k3, MB, repeat from ** to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2. [58 stitches, 2 stitches decreased at tail]
Round 30: Repeat Round 24. [54 stitches]
Round 31: K2tog, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k4, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, ssk, sm, k2. [52 stitches, 2 stitches decreased at tail]
Round 32: Repeat Round 24. [48 stitches]
Round 33: K2tog, *MB, k3, repeat from * to next marker, sm, k5, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, ssk, sm, k2. [46 stitches, 2 stitches decreased at tail]
Remove beginning-of-round marker and slip the last stitch of the last round onto the left needle.
Cut yarn, leaving an approximately 30-inch tail.
Divide the stitches in half, sliding 23 stitches to each end of the circular needle or arranging them onto two double pointed needles.
Holding the needles parallel to each other, use Kitchener Stitch to graft together the two sides of the Bobble Sheep’s back.
Weave in the ends.
NOTE: You will notice in the pictures that I next stuffed the Sheep and closed the Belly. However, I recommend making the Face, the Ears, and the Tail before you stuff the Sheep and graft its Belly. Live and learn!
Make Head + Ears
Orienting the Sheep right side up, locate the Neck section, as shown above.
Using the Contrast Yarn and the smaller double pointed needles, pick up 92 stitches around the strip of stockinette stitches at the Neck.
To do this, start at the left bottom of the Neck, pick up 3 stitches in each of the next fifteen stitches along the left side of the Neck, two stitches along the top, rotate the Sheep and pick up 3 stitches in each of the fifteen stitches along the right side. (To pick up 3 stitches in one stitch, pick up and knit one stitch, yarn over, bring the needle back into the same stitch and knit to pick up another stitch.) [92 stitches]
Distribute the stitches on three double pointed needles, place a marker and join for working in the round.
Set-up Round: K16, [place a different color marker, k30] two times, place a different color marker, knit to end of round.
Round 1: K1, m1L, knit to first marker, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, knit to last stitch, m1R, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Round 2: Knit to first marker, sm, k2tog, knit to two before third marker, ssk, sm, knit to end of round. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 five more times. [68 stitches]
Round 3: Knit to first marker, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, knit to end of round. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rounds 2 and 3. [58 stitches]
Repeat Round 2 one more time. [56 stitches]
Round 4: K2tog, knit to first marker, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, knit to last 2 stitches, ssk. [6 stitches decreased]
Repeat Round 4, removing first and third marker. [44 stitches]
Round 5: K2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, ssk. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat Round 5 two more times. [32 stitches]
Cut yarn leaving an approximately 16-inch tail.
Divide stitches in half, placing the first 16 stitches on the first double pointed needle and the second 16 stitches on the second double pointed needle. Use Kitchener Stitch to graft together the two sides of the Head.
Weave in the ends.
Make the Right Ear
Using the Contrast Yarn and the smaller double pointed needles, pick up 18 stitches for the Right Ear (the ear on the right, if looking at the sheep).
To do this, count four stitches down from the top right side of the Sheep’s Head (just above a bobble). Pick up 3 stitches in this stitch and in the next two stitches above it (9 stitches so far). Then rotate the sheep and pick up 3 stitches in each of the stitches directly across from those you just picked up, working back towards the starting point. (18 stitches)
**Place marker and join for working in the round.
Knit 4 rounds. At the end of the fourth round, remove marker and turn work. You will no longer knit in the round, but back and forth in rows, turning the work at the end of each row.
Row 1 (inside of ear): Purl.
Row 2 (outside of ear): Knit.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Repeat Row 1.
Next Row: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Next Row: Purl.
Repeat last two rows 6 more times. [4 stitches]
Next Row: Ssk, k2tog. [2 stitches]
Bind off purlwise.
Weave in the ends.
Make the Left Ear
Making the Left Ear (the ear on the left, if looking at the sheep) is very similar to making the Right Ear. The only difference is where you pick up the stitches.
Find the bobble across from the bobble you used as the starting point for the Right Ear. Pick up 3 stitches in each of the next 3 stitches above that bobble. Rotate the sheep and pick up 3 stitches in each of the next 3 stitches along the side of the Sheep’s Head, working back towards the starting point. [18 stitches]
Repeat steps under Make the Right Ear starting at **.
Tail
With Main Yarn and the larger double pointed needles, pick up 12 stitches as shown above. Here’s how…
Facing the Sheep’s rear, locate the left side of the left stitch that is 5 stitches down from the end of the Sheep’s back. Starting there, pick up 5 stitches up the left side, 2 stitches along the ridge of the Sheep’s back and 5 stitches down the right side the Sheep’s rear. [12 stitches]
Working back and forth in rows…
Knit 4 rows.
Next Row: Bind off 1 stitch, knit to end. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat last row 3 more times. [8 stitches]
Bind off.
Legs
NOTE: Before you make the Legs, stuff the Sheep loosely, then pick up the stitches from the Provisional Cast On, divide them in half and use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the Belly closed.
Using the Contrast Yarn and the smaller double pointed needles, pick up 26 stitches at one end of the Sheep’s Belly, as shown above. Here’s how…
Pick up 3 stitches in each of the 4 stitches along one side of the Belly [12 stitches], pick up 1 stitch along the center of the Belly, rotate the sheep and pick up 12 stitches along the other side of the Belly and one last stitch along the center. [26 stitches]
Distribute stitches on three double pointed needles, place a marker and join for working in the round.
Round 1: [K12, p1] two times.
Repeat Round 1 until Leg measures 4 inches from the pick-up round. NOTE: If you are making the Gentle Giant version, repeat Round 1 until Leg measures 5 inches.
Next Round: [K11, ssk] two times. [24 stitches]
Cut yarn, leaving a 10-inch tail.
Divide stitches in half, placing the first 12 stitches on one double pointed needle and the second 12 stitches on a second double pointed needle. Use Kitchener Stitch to graft together the two sides of the Leg.
Make a second Leg at the other end of the Sheep’s Belly.
Weave in the ends and you are all finished with your Bobble Sheep!
I think I finally have it, but find the pattern a tiny bit misleading: after MB making the bobble, the k3 INCLUDES the final bobble stitch, correct? After slipping the 3 stitches over, knitting into that stitch is the first of the k3? Thanks!
Hi Paula,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help clarify. The k3 does not include the final stitch of the bobble. When completing the bobble, you will move the final stitch to the right hand needle and then knit the next 3 stitches. For example, when you begin round 5, you will have 46 stitches.
Round 5 reads: [M1L, k2, *make bobble (MB, see Notes), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches increased]
So in the first section, you will be working over 23 stitches, adding 2. The section that you repeat (MB, k3) is worked 4 times over 16 stitches. You will work the MB and then knit the next 3 stitches and then repeat, using up the 16 stitches and then continuing on to the MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
I figured it out, the instructions for the MB are misleading I think. I was having the same problem, but it’s because my bobbles were taking two stitches. In the MB notes it makes it seem like you are knitting into one stitch, yarning over and then knitting into a second stitch and yarning over. But You’re really only supposed to do it into one stitch. Excited to start the project now that I got that confusion out of the way! Seems like a fun one!
I’ m also confused between round 4 and 5…pattern says cast on 46 stitches, round 2 says place marker at 21 stitches….shouldn’t it read at 23? My stitches are not working out and I’m struggling. I’m not a beginner but can’t figure out what I’m missing otherwise.
Hi Carolann,
Great question! For round 2, the directions read: [P21, place a marker that is a different color than the end-of-the-round marker, k2] two times. This will give you a result of:BOR/EOR marker (beginning of round marker/end of round marker), purl 21 stitches, marker, knit 2 stitches, purl 21 stitches, marker, knit 2 stitches.
The instructions for the rounds following this one will include reference to the markers as well. For round 4, the directions read: [Purl to next marker, slip marker (sm), k2] two times. This will give you a result of BOR/EOR marker, purl 21 stitches, slip marker, knit 2 stitches, purl 21 stitches, slip marker, knit 2 stitches. The sets of knitting 2 stitches will result in the back and front seems of this little sheep. This also means that the BOR/EOR marker does not mark the middle front of the sheep but rather 1 stitch over from the middle.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi Adam,
I am having trouble understanding what to do after 4 rounds are knit for the right ear. I have two needles with 9 stitches each and am confused about the instruction “you will no longer knit in the round, but back and forth in rows, turning the work at the end of each row.” Am I knitting each side separately and then seaming the edge all the way around? Thank you for your help.
Susan Roth
Hello Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! When you get to this section you will want to transfer all of your stitches to a circular needle or straight needles and knit the rest of the ear flat – turning your work for each row.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Enjoying this project immensely. At the point of grafting the sheep’s head. I feel that the contrasting yarn that was sent with your kit does not have the texture or stability to “hold up” to the form of a sheep’s head. I feel once I close it, it will form a grey puddle. Do you recommend lightly stuffing this portion? Anyone else having the same result? I’m an accomplished knitter and have followed the directions implicitly.
Hello Rhonda,
Thanks for writing us! I’m so happy you are enjoying this fun project. The shaping of the head will create enough stability to keep its head up and out. It will be on the floppier side of things, but will maintain its structure. I think you will be happy with the result, but let me know if it does end up looking like a puddle and we can try and further problem solve.
I hope this is helpful!
-Marilla
Hi. I’m just finishing up this project as a gift for my three year old. He is psyched!! I just wanted to confirm though – are we only making two legs not four? Has anyone adjusted the pattern for four? Thanks!
Hello Jessica,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct- this pattern is for two legs. I think the two legs do a nice job of capturing the silhouette of the sheep. Aesthetically, I wonder if four legs might look a tad bunched up. Especially if you did them right next together. I would maybe experiment with staggering them out. I hope this makes sense. Let me know if you have any further questions!
Best,
Marilla
I picked up the 92 stitches for the head, starting at the bottom (the neck) and working up the left side first and then down the right. I’m assuming the pattern is referring to left and right when you’re looking at the sheep, not the sheep’s left and right? The placement of the markers stumps me, though – one ends up right at the top of the head? They all seem very askew. Any words of wisdom as to where I’m going wrong? Thank you!
Oh! Got it! I was reading it as k16, pm, k30, pm, twice. The k16 isn’t repeated.
Would this be appropriate for a beginner? I am a super-quick learner and am not afraid of challenges to start off…
Hi Connie,
Thanks for writing in! There are some more advanced techniques in this lovely little sheep! The Craft Yarn Council would put this somewhere between an intermediate and advanced pattern based on the techniques used. That said, if you are up for a challenge, you can certainly give it a go. I would suggest looking through the pattern and knitting some swatches that utilize the techniques (making bobbles, picking up stitches, k3tog, sk2p, provisional cast on, kitchener stitch as well as increasing and decreasing) and then decide if you are comfortable enough with them to give it a go!
Best,
Cassy
I purchased the stuffing you recommend with the pattern. How much of this stuffing do you stuff into the sheep? Love the pattern!
Hi Dawn,
Thanks for writing in! You can add as much or as little stuffing as you like. It really depends on how taut or fluffy you would like your sweet sheep. I usually stuff until I like the feel and then add just a touch more to account for it compacting over time. Any way you decide, the little sheep will be quite sweet!
Best,
Cassy
I’d like to make the pillow smaller from head to tail. Am I right in thinking that I just won’t increase as often and will start the decrease earlier? Any suggestions?
Hello Mary,
Thank you for reaching out! You might want to consider casting on less stitches to begin with, because if you do reduce the amount of increases and decreases it will change the overall shape of the sheep as well as making it smaller. It will also be important to look at the pattern and consider where the bobbles are lining up. I hope this helps!
Happy Knitting,
Marilla
Hello !
I cannot figure out whether the pattern (and yardage) is for the bobble sheep or the Giant bobble sheep.
Maybe use the same pattern with smaller gauge and needles ?
Getting the recommended yarn for most projects here in France is very difficult… only on the internet, and it’s pretty hard to chose colors by only swaps on the computer…(well, the sheep is white or black, that should be pretty easy), and as it takes weeks to receive orders and cost the equivalent of 2 or three balls…. our best choice is to find an equivalent yarn .
I love your site, your patterns, and your yarns and fabrics just look beautiful.
Thank you for your attention , your answer, and just for being there for us knitters
Hi Francoise,
Thank you for writing in and for your kind words! The pattern above is used for both versions of the Bobble Sheep. The yarn, needle sizes and gauge listed above are for the smaller version and the yarn, needle sizes and gauge for the larger version can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2016/02/29/bobble-sheep-pillow-in-gentle-giant/
You will want to look for yarns that knit at similar gauges depending on which size you would like to make and use the corresponding needles listed for that size.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Are the instructions for the tail correct? Looks odd. Looks like there are too many rows. Does tail stay open? The tail looks more round in photos.
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing in! The instructions for the tail are correct. The tail on this sweet little sheep is open and shaped a bit like a half dome that is open on the bottom. You can certainly sew it up once you are done if you prefer the look of a closed tail! Either way, I think that the sheep will look great!
Best,
Cassy
If I’m at round 5 I only see a 3 stitch increase – not a 4 stitch increase. What am I missing?
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for reaching out! We are always happy to help! I find that it helps to write out the whole of the line from time to time. I am also going to bold the increases to make them stand out!
Round 5 reads: [M1L, k2, *MB k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches increased]
Round 5 expanded reads: M1L, k2, MB, k3, MB, k3, MB, k3, MB, k3, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2, M1L, k2, MB, k3, MB, k3, MB, k3, MB, k3, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2.
I hope that this helps clear things up and please do not hesitate to reach out again!
Happy knitting,
Cassy
I was wondering can this be made on stright needles.?
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for writing in! This pattern is written to knit in the round. We are unable to rewrite it to knit flat at this juncture. We realize that for some of our customers that this presents a challenge but we urge you to give it a try! Once you get the hang of it, you may find that you never use straight needles again, even for projects without so many stitches. Circular needles are just easier to keep track of (no losing one in the cushions of your couch!), and they never poke the person sitting next to you!
Best,
Cassy
I am trying to knit the right ear and am stuck after the 4 knitted rounds.How do I “turn the work” and knit rows? I have 9 stiches each on two parallel dpns. What next?
It’s been an adventure knitting this sheep but I managed to get the body and head right…not to be stumped by the ears. Thanks Connie
Hi Connie,
Thanks for writing in! At this point in the pattern, you will go from knitting in the round to knitting straight! Instead on continuing on in the same direction that you have been knitting, you will turn the work so that the inside is facing you and continue working back across the stitches that you just completed!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I crocheted it!
Having to re-start many times I’m tempted to crochet it! Bobble are easier and look better crocheted I think.
How did you do it?
I am having a terrible time picking up three stiches from one stitch. ( Cant find any online tutorials which address three stitches) I love your tutorials and really really wish you would make one for how to pick up the stitches on my Bobble Sheep.
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in! I am sorry to hear that you have difficulties! While we do have a tutorial for picking up stitches, we do not have one for picking up 3 in one. That said, you will start with the same principal listed in the tutorial. My favorite way to pick up 3 stitches into one is to knit into the front, the back and the front of the same stitch, creating 3 stitches from 1 stitch. We do have a tutorial for knitting in the front and back of a stitch (kfb) and for this technique, you will want to just dip into the stitch one more time from the front!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi, how are you, hope you’re doing fine.
I am having a little trouble with the head of the sheep.
In round 1 (Round 1: K1, m1L, knit to first marker, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, knit to last stitch, m1R, k1. [2 stitches decreased]), at the end, when it says “knit to last stitch, m1R, k1” I don’t know if I have to knit 15 stitches then m1R and k1 in the last stitch (16), or I have to kint all the 16 stitches and then m1R and k1 at the beginning of the first 16 stitches.
I have do it with the example number two and it doesn’t looks like the photo at all.
Hope I have explained it well so you understand my problem.
Best wishes, Melany.
Hi Melany,
I think I can help! Your first explanation (knit 15 stitches, m1R, knit last stitch) is correct. Just in case, since you wrote “m1r and K1 in the last stitch,” I want to make sure you are using the correct increase. This pattern uses the Make 1 Right and Make 1 Left increases which are worked in between stitches and do not use up a stitch from the stitch count. It sounds like you might be using a Knit Front and Back increase which would use up your last stitch before you get to the final K1 in the pattern.
I hope that helps! Let us know if you have any other questions!
Julianna
Hi Julianna, thanks for answer me. I have done the head and it’s perfect.:) But now I am having a little problems with the ears. I have done the first “4 rounds”, but I don’t understand very much the next part.
I don’t know if in “Row 1”
– I have to purl the first 9 stitches (the ones that are inside the ear) back and forth, turning the work.
– Or if “Row 1” refers to purl all the 18 stitches back and forth, also turning the work. Or if it refers that back (are the first 9 stitches – inside the ear) and forth the other 9 stitches – outside the ear)
So in conclusion, Ii´m a little confused about how many stitches I have to knit in each row and in what way.
I have try all the possibilities but it always appears the purl side outside the ear. I don’t know if that ok.
Hope I have explained it well, thanks for always answer my doubts.
Best regards. 🙂
Hi Melany,
I’m so glad the head of the sheep worked out! For this part of the ear, you will be working back and forth across all the stitches, so after knitting your fourth round, to begin Row 1, you will turn and purl across all 18 stitches, and for Row 2, you will again turn and knit across all 18 stitches. If you are ending up with purls on the outside of the ear, I think the problem might be that you are not turning to the wrong side (or inside) of the ear when beginning Row 1.
You will probably have to keep your stitches divided on several double pointed needles at first because the base of the ear is such a small tube, but once you have a few rows done you should be able to put all 18 stitches on one needle to work back and forth, which will make this feel a little less confusing! I hope that clears everything up and the rest of the sheep is smooth sailing, but if not please let us know!
Best,
Julianna
Hi,
I have a question about row 5. I understand the directions for the most part, up to where it tells you to repeat whats within the brackets [ ] two times. Am I supposed to be changing where my markers are? Like, are they moving throughout the piece? When I do the first round, I slip my marker and then k2, but then when I get towards the end, I don’t have three stitches left, I have 5…so I MB, K2, M1R and then K2. I have the right amount of stitches (50) and my first place marker is still at the beginning, I just don’t know if I am doing it correctly or if I have already made a mistake in the pattern. Thanks for the help!
Hello Morgan,
Thank you for reaching out- I hope I can help! Your markers will stay in the same place for row 5, though you will be increasing within them.
When you begin row 5 your row setup should be; 21sts, Marker, 23sts, Marker, 2sts, end of round Marker. This means you will have 23 sts between each unique marker, but 21 sts before your first marker when starting your row.
This means that that row 5 step by step would be: [M1L, k2, (make bobble, k3) 4 times, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2,] two times.
I hope this helps and let us know if you are still coming across any issues
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello!! I’m having trouble figuring out where my head and tail Are! I’m assuming the open part where you have to graft is the bottom (duhlol) but when I orient it I can’t figure out the ends. Help
Hello Katie,
Thank you for reaching out and congratulations on being almost done with your sheep! This part can be tricky- you are not alone in being confused by it. The Bottom of the sheep is where you did you provisional cast on so the sheep is knit bottom up. If you turn the sheep so that you are facing the side of the sheep’s body and then pretend the body makes up a horizontally oval shaped clock… The head goes where 9:30 to 11:30 would be. When making the body, this edge had shaping, it’s that slopped in portion of the oval where the head goes.
I hope this helps clear it up, if I can clarify any of this let us know!
Happy sheeping,
Marilla
I love this. Please think about creating a crocheted version?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for reaching out! We do not currently have a crochet pattern for the Bobble Sheep but we will definitely keep your request in mind for future projects!
Best,
Julianna
Hi there… I don’t have the patience to review all of the comments… but is there a pattern for a baby bobble sheep?
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! The easiest way to size down the Bobble Sheep is to use a lighter weight yarn and smaller needles and follow the pattern as written. For a smaller sheep, I would suggest trying Worsted Twist on a US 7 needle, or for an even bittier sheep, Cashmere Merino Bloom on a US 5! For either yarn, Line Weight on US 1 double pointed needles for the head and feet would work well.
Best of luck and let us know how your baby sheep turns out!
Julianna
Bonjour, je voudrais savoir si vous avez les explications en français et c’est de quel niveau ? Mon Niveau est de débutant à intermédiaire. Merci pour la réponse
Hi Yana,
Merci pour votre message! Malheureusement, nos patrons sont toujours en anglais!
Merci,
Cassy
On the set up for the head – it says 16 place market (then knit 30 is in brackets) repeat twice.
For the set up is it knit 16 place marker, knit 30 place market, knit 16 place market and then knit 30? It seems to me it would make more sense to knit 16, place marker, knit 30, place marker, knit 30 place market and then knit 16. Would you please clarify? I’m thinking the 16 at the same end makes sense but I could be incorrect very easily!
Hello Carol,
This is a great question! Your set up row is as follows; K16, place a different color marker, k30, place a different color marker, k30, Place a different color marker, knit to end of round.
I hope this clears things up and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
Marilla
Can you specify whether the 16-30-30 sequence starts at the nape of the neck or the nose end of the head? I’m pretty sure I’ve started the head backwards…
Hi Dawn,
Thanks for writing in! The stitches for the head are picked up beginning at the bottom of the head, closest to the sheep’s feet, so the set up row should also begin at the bottom of the head.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I’m wondering if you could offer some advice for stuffing the pillow. I’m concerned that if I stuff it directly with polyfil, the fibers will slowly come out of the holes in between bobbles. How did you (or others) stuff the pillow? Pillow case? Thank you!
Hello Samantha,
This is a great question! You can make a little pillow for the inside of your sheep. We did this for the Gentle Giant version because the stitches are so large. I suggest that you pick a fabric that is close to the color of your sheep and sew a pillow that is the size of the sheep. Leave an opening to stuff the pillow and then whip stitch the opening closed. Before doing the kitchener stitch on the knitted opening, you will insert the pillow to enclose it inside the sheep.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi, Thanks for pattern. After I cast on with scrap yarn and then knit rnd 1 with main yarn, do i take out scrap yarn and if so how do i do this? Tia.
Hi Shannon,
Thanks for reaching out! The provisional cast on here will stay in place until you have finished the rest of this sweet little sheep! You will then pick out the provisional cast on, placing your stitches onto needles and kitchener the stitches together to close up the belly after stuffing the sheep. This direction is noted at the beginning of the “Legs” section and will basically be a repeat of the end of the body!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’m so excited to be close to my finished sheep!! I’m closing up the belly and put back the 46 cast on stitches to my needle. Im confused about removing my scrap yarn. Do I simply remove it? I’m worried about all my work unraveling 🤭.
Also, since I didn’t leave an extra long tail, I’m guessing I’ll add some yarn to the tail to do the Kitchener stitch graft.
Thanks for help!
Hi Vivien,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes that is correctly, you will simply remove the scrap yarn! I would recommend working slowly when removing it, you can then put each stitch back on the needle as you remove the scrap yarn.
For the Kitchener Stitch it is easier to use the tail (thats why we recommend leaving a long tail) however you can use an additional section of yarn to complete the stitch!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Can you please clarify with the markers? Is it correct that for the entire body (all three added in round 2) there will be three markers utilized throughout the pattern?
I’m not to the head/tail yet- but can you confirm the number of markers that should be in place through the pattern?
Thank you!
Hello Madeline,
Thank you for reaching out! Yes- you will be using all three markers throughout this pattern. I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I am from the netherlands and want to start knitting this adorable Sheep. Do you have the pattern in european measurements for the needles and amount of wool necessary.
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for writing in! When I need to translate a pattern from metric to US imperial, I like to use Google’s conversion tools. I type “convert cm to inches” into Google and a purpose-built calculator will appear. You can certainly do the same thing in reverse to convert all of the measurements you seek into metric! In this case, we used US 11 needles, which are equivalent to 8 mm needles, and US 3 needles, which are equivalent to 3.25 mm. The sheep takes 348 yards of Super Soft Merino, which is 318 meters.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I find round 5 extremely confusing. Would it be possible to write out the instructions as you knit, absent the * and repeats? I have tried this row multiple times and find it extremely confusing and the pattern does not seem to work correctly. Thanks so much!
Hi Tracy,
I’m sorry to hear you are having trouble with this row! Although it’s not feasible to write out the entire row completely without repeats, perhaps it will help to break the row up onto separate lines as follows:
M1L, K2
(MB, K3), repeat to 3 stitches before next marker
MB, K2, M1R, slip marker, K2
M1L, K2
(MB, K3), repeat to 3 stitches before next marker
MB, K2, M1R, slip marker, K2
These 6 lines comprise the entire Round 5. I hope that helps, and please feel free to reach out if you have any other questions!
Best,
Julianna
i can’t work out the head pattern at all. what does sm and ssk mean?, can’t find abbreviations for these in the pattern, and if i knit 16 then 30 then 16 then 30 i can’t understand how it will work. I can see that I have to do something like turning a heel, like a sock, but i don’t seem able to keep 16 stitches in the centre of the decreases..
have tried it on 4 needles, and on a circular, to no success, not enough stitches to fill a circular needle so end up shuffling sticthes along all the time, and thinking of doing it flat , sewing it on and having a seam in the head. managed body beautifully but getting frustrated after 4 goes at head. tempted to
Hi Catherine,
I’m so sorry to hear you are having trouble with your sheep’s head – this can be quite a tricky step for many knitter! You can find our full list of common abbreviations used in our patterns here, but for at least these two, SM stands for Slip Marker, and SSK stands for Slip Slip Knit. The head is shaped entirely with increases and decreases, so you shouldn’t be working any short rows, as you would for a sock heel. Since each section is increased and decreased at different times, you will not be maintaining a consistent stitch count in any section, so don’t worry if your markers are moving and your stitch counts are changing!
If you can get through the first few rows, I assure you that the mechanics of actually knitting the head in the round will get easier! Since the base of the head is not triangular, I would suggest using a full set of 5 double pointed needles and distributing the stitches of 4 as we show in our picture, and then knitting around with the fifth. If all else fails, you certainly can knit the head separately and attach it later!
Best of luck, and please let me know if there is anything else I can clarify!
Julianna
I love these sheep. I will be laid up with knee surgery and these are the perfect project for me.
Thank you for the free pattern.
Hello, I would like to hire experienced knitters to make these pillows for me to sell. Purl Soho, please contact me so we can discuss copy rights 🙂 thank you.
Hello Aye,
Thank you for your interest in our patterns! While we’re happy you like our Bobble Sheep Pillow, our patterns and designs are copyrighted and are for home use only. This means that you can’t use our patterns to make things for sale. We hope you understand!
Thank you for getting in touch!
-Marilla
I kind of get it, but not! I am stymied on row 5. I read the clarification to ‘Paula’ June 13, 2017 and it STILL does not work for me. Are there 2 increases close together? At the end of 21 stitches, I knit twice then increase one, K2 more, then increase 1 more and then K2 and make the next bobble?
Hello Antoinette,
Thank you for your interest in our pattern! Row 5 consists of “[M1L, k2, *make bobble (MB, see Notes), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches increased]”. This means that within the brackets you have two decreases, one M1L and one M1R, you will repeat the instructions within the brackets twice making a total of four decreases.
Your M1L and M1R will be close to each other.
I hope this answers your question, but please let us know if it doesn’t!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi,
I am really struggling with knitting the head of this sheep, after casting on 92 stitches, the pattern states to Distribute the stitches on three double pointed needles, however your photograph shows 4 dpn and not three. I don’t quite know where to put the markers as according the pattern it needs 3 markers but I have ended up with 4. Please help as I am getting very frustrated. Thank you.
Also, would it be easier to knit the head flat and sew them together? if the answer is yes how do I count the stitches?
Hello Eva,
Thank you for reaching out! After you have cast on your 92 stitches you will distribute these stitches onto 3 dpns and then use your 4th dpn to knit across. The photo shows this point in the process rather than the cast on. As far as markers go you are absolutely correct! You should have 4 markers, the fourth marker is your beginning of the round marker.
I hope this clears things up for you and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Warmly,
Marilla
Looking for the original pattern, and seems to keep looping me back to the updated one. Am I missing it?
Also, I have a bunch of Worsted Weight Yarn, would it work if I doubled the yarn? Or must make it smaller with smaller needles and follow the pattern as is?
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! You have found the correct page for the pattern! You can find it by scrolling up – it begins in the section titled “MATERIALS.” It is possible that doubled worsted weight yarn will work, but it’s hard to say for sure unless you knit a gauge swatch. Rather than trying to match our exact gauge, for a stuffed animal, you want to find the needle size that creates a tightly knitted fabric with your yarn to minimize stuffing showing through the body of the sheep. The same goes for determining the needle size if you decide to use worsted weight yarn without doubling it. I have seen this sheep knitted in worsted weight yarn, and he comes out much smaller but just as adorable!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi! I have an extra skein of kettle black linen quill lying around that I’d like to sub in for the head and feet. Could you please advise on how to adjust the pattern for this? Thanks so much. Can’t wait to snuggle up with this adorable pillow!
Hi Ali,
Thanks for writing in and for the kind words! Since Linen Quill is a bit thinner than Blue Sky Sport Weight Alpaca, I would suggest doing a second gauge swatch using Linen Quill doubled to see if you can get the correct gauge. If you check the gauge section at the beginning of the pattern, you will see that we do list a gauge for the contrast color. Kettle Black will look just lovely!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Love it and need a quick answer! How many yards does the large sheep take? How any yards does the small one take? Thanks for the help! Thanks
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! For our original smaller sheep, we used 384 yards of bulky weight Super Soft Merino, and for our larger sheep, we used 480 yards of super bulky Gentle Giant.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I have figured out the first row 5! But, now I’m at the repeat row 5. I’ve added 8 stitches thru m1 r or l. The math isn’t working out for the 2nd row 5.
It takes 2 stitches plus the k3 (or 5 stitches for each side.
Can you state the # of stitches needed for EACH row 5, and write out each row for all 3 repeat row 5s?
I’m beside myself as I’ve been at this for several sittings and have either torn out or gone back numerous times. Want to finish for a Feb. Baby!
Thanks!
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m sorry to hear you’re having trouble with your sheep! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources to add full stitch counts to the pattern (although I will certainly pass along your request!), but it should be fairly straightforward to figure out. Each row in this section adds four stitches, so I would suggest keeping notes as follows:
Row 5: (50)
Row 6: (54)
Row 7: Repeat 5 (58)
Row 8: Repeat 6 (62)
And so on, through each repeated section. You can check off each row as you go and track both which set of instructions you are repeating as well as how many stitches you should have at the end of the row.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
This is so fantastic.
When I was a little girl, my grandmother knitted a sheep hot water bottle cover almost identical to this one. It brings back memories… I will have to make this for my niece.
Hello! I’m having a great time making this pillow and and I’m attempting to start the head. When it tells me to place a marker for working in the round, it doesn’t specify where? Do I start on the bottom left, where I begin picking up stitches?
I’m also assuming I’m supposed to be knitting the outside, so going in a clockwise direction around the seam, rather then counterclockwise around the inside?
Thank you!
Hello Caroline,
Thank you for reaching out! These are great questions. Your marker is telling you where the beginning of your round is. This means that it will be placed between your last and first stitch. You will be knitting in the round, with the outside facing you, clockwise.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Am I right in saying that you could leave off the instruction after Round 6 to “repeat Rounds 5 & 6 three more times” BECAUSE Round 7 is the 1st repeat of Round 5, Round 8 is the first repeat of Round 6, etc. By the 3rd repeat of Round 6 I will have the 78 stitches. The reason I ask is that they are not really repeats of Round 5 & 6 (with increases) They have little variations. I almost repeated Rounds 5 & 6 as instructed without realizing all those rows were printed out.
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! After completing Rounds 5 and 6 the first time, you will then repeat rounds 5 and 6 three more times to get to 78 stitches before moving on to Row 7 which is written out in the next section. It sounds like your first interpretation of the pattern was correct!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
My question is about row 6. Are the increases , M1R and M1L in this row done as purl increases or knit stitch increases?
Hello Sarah,
Thank you for reaching out! These increases are knit.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Great project! My question is about pick up vs. pick up and knit…
When you pick up the stitches from the Provisional Cast On, do you pick up AND KNIT or only pick up–running the needle through the existing loops as you pull out the provisional cast-on yarn? And if you pick up and knit, is it a knit stitch or a purl stitch?
I see your tutorial videos on picking up seem to all show pick up and knit. Thank you.
Hi Joan,
Thanks for reaching out! Picking up the stitches from a provisional cast on is a different technique than what we usually call picking up or picking up and knitting stitches so our tutorial on picking up stitches might be not very helpful for this step. When you are taking out a provisional cast on, you will simply place the resulting live stitches on your needle as you take out the waste yarn and then follow the next step in the pattern – in this case, grafting the belly closed with Kitchener stitch – with a new piece of yarn if you don’t have a tail left from the previous steps.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Juliana,
I noticed you received a few people asking if you have a crocheted pattern for these precious sheep. Please add me to that request list. This project is too cute to be only for the knitters!! I sure hope you can get a crocheted version out to us! Thanks for such a lovely website.
Susan
This is adorable, do you have a crochet version with bobble stitch?? Thanks
Hi Shelly,
Thanks for reaching out! We do not currently have a crochet pattern for the Bobble Sheep but I will be sure to pass your request along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
I saw the comment above about being able to use worsted weight yarn – do you have a sense of how many yards that would require? Is it the same as the pattern? I have a nice woolly worsted that I think would be great, but I want to make sure I have enough to finish it!
Thanks!
Kelsey
Hi Kelsey,
Great question! When using a lighter weight yarn and smaller needles, you will need a little less yardage because each stitch is smaller, but not much less. Since our Super Soft Merino version of the sheep uses about 350 yards of bulky weight yarn, I would suggest having somewhere between 300 and 350 yards of a worsted weight yarn to make sure you have enough.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
I’m having trouble with the sheep pattern pillow. I’ve started it many times and now I’m going to try again. My problem is not in doing any of the stitches but the end and beginning of rows. I don’t understand how many stitches I need to end or begin with before I make a stitch. Is it 3 stitches before the end or one stitch. What do the seams look like or are there seams? Thanks
Hello Ellen,
Thank you for reaching out! This is knit in the round, so there are no seams. When you begin at the belly and you are placing your markers in round 2 you have your beginning of your round marker and then Purl 21 stitches, place marker, Knit 2 stitches, Purl 21 stitches, place marker, knit 2. Now you are back to your beginning of your round marker and your round has a total of three markers.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hello,
Is there supposed to be a hole to the right and left of each bobble? I do not see any in your photos.
Also, is it possible to get the length and width of the finished head size ? I am thinking of placing an eye on mine–Would you know what would be a good size to purchase?
Thank you for your help.
Hi Kimberly,
Thanks for writing in! The bobbles should be fairly tight and although there might be a slightly loose stitch to either side, there shouldn’t be a large or noticeable hole. If your knitting feels a little loose, you may want to try moving down a needle size or tug a bit on your stitches to either side of the bobbles to make sure there isn’t any stuffing showing through the finished sheep. The head is approximately 4.85 inches long and 2.5 inches high, but since the head is not stuffed, it may not support the weight of a safety eye well. Another option would be to embroider eyes on when the head is complete.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello! I absolutely adore this pattern! I included a link to it in a blog post a few years ago. I would love to update it with photos, and I wondered if I could use one of your photos? With credit, naturally. Thank you so much!
Hi Nicole,
Thanks for reaching out! We would be happy for you to use our photo and only ask that you credit and link back to Purl Soho for the photo in your post. We wish you and your visitors happy crafting!
Best,
Julianna
would LOVE to try this but am a visual learner ! is there a tutorial anywhere of the whole thing I can buy or access on youtube?
Hello Patricia,
Thanks you for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have a video tutorial for this project, but I will certainly pass along your suggestion.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi- what if I wanted to make this little dude smaller? can I just use a finer yarn with the same instructions or is there a better way? I made one of these about 5 years ago- it was fun but I’m looking for less commitment. Any ideas for me? Thanks. Nicki
Hi Nicki,
You absolutely can! We have seen a bunch of these sweet sheep made from worsted weight yarn and they are darling! You will just want to go down corresponding needle sizes as well!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hello, is it possible to knit this pattern on 2 straight needles instead of in the round?
Hi Beverley,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we are unable to rewrite this pattern to knit flat at this time. We realize that for some of our customers that this presents a challenge but we urge you to give it a try! Once you get the hang of it, you may find that you never use straight needles again, even for projects without so many stitches. Circular needles are just easier to keep track of (no losing one in the cushions of your couch!), and they never poke the person sitting next to you!
Best,
Julianna