Bobble Sheep Pillow in Super Soft Merino
I guess it isn’t surprising that a knitter has an affinity for sheep. Obviously, some sort of kinship must exist with the animal whose wool provides daily enjoyment (and employment!). So as predictable as it may be, I will say it anyway… I love sheep. They are funny creatures with a neurotic voice and a body perfect for graphic adaptation.
I love their bulbous bellies and knobbly knees, their googly eyes and pointy ears. I love how they amble about in groups, looking like earth-bound clouds. And it goes without saying, I love what they gift us… don’t worry, I’m not about to type “mutton.” I mean, of course, their wool!
A dear friend pointed out that it may be a bit snake-eating-its-own-tail, but anyway, I had to make one… I had to make a sheep, made out of sheep.
With the softest, loftiest, creamiest yarn I could find and the most dramatic, nobbiest texture I could create, I knit up this squishable, squeezable, nursery-rhyme version of every knitter’s best pal. Bursting with bobbles, this sheep practically implores you to cuddle.
Incredibly soft to the touch, Purl Soho’s Super Soft Merino could not have been more appropriate for this project, right down to its color name, Heirloom White. Your own Bobble Sheep Pillow is sure to be loved by many generations to come! -Laura
Update: New Yarn + Size
February 29, 2016
Being the sheep fanatics that we are, we couldn’t resist making more Bobble Sheep, this time in our incredibly soft jumbo weight Gentle Giant merino. For the list of materials, as well as tips on modifying the pattern, visit our Bobble Sheep Pillow in Gentle Giant post.
UPDATE: NOW IN PARTRIDGE
MARCH 2022
We’ve added a new lamb-sized sheep to our flock… the Bobble Sheep in Partridge! For such a huggable project, soft and squishy Partridge is an excellent choice. A worsted-weight single ply of incredibly sumptuous 100% merino wool, Partridge is thinner than either of our previous versions and knits up a more diminutive sheep. Pick up a Bobble Sheep Pillow Bundle in Partridge and add a new baby lamb to your happy pillow-flock!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoBobbleSheepPillow, #PurlSohoSuperSoftMerino and #PurlSohoSeasonAlpaca. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
Get all the yarn you’ll need to make your own Bobble Sheep Pillow with the Bobble Sheep Pillow Bundle. It includes…
- Main Yarn: 4 skeins of Purl Soho’s Super Soft Merino, 100% merino wool yarn. Each skein of this bulky weight yarn is 87 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 348 yards required. We used the color Heirloom White, Toasted Charcoal or Soft Black.
- Contrast Yarn: 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Season Alpaca, 100% super baby alpaca yarn. Each skein of this sport weight yarn is 218 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 110 yards required. We used the color River Rock. (Please Note: Our original Bobble Sheep featured Blue Sky Fiber’s Sport Weight Alpaca, which is no longer available.)
You’ll also need…
- US 11 (8 mm), 16 or 24-inch circular needles
- Set of US 11 double pointed needles
- Set of US 3 (3.25 mm) double pointed needles
- 1 bag of Fairfield’s Poly-fil Stuffing
- Scrap yarn (bulky weight) and crochet hook to match (for provisional cast on)
Gauge
12 stitches = 4 inches in garter stitch with Main Yarn on larger needle
28 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette with Contrast Yarn on smaller needle
Size
19 inches wide (from chest to rear) x 14 inches tall (from top of back to bottom of belly)
Notes
k3tog [knit 3 together]: This is a right-slanting double decrease. Insert right needle into next three stitches as if to knit, knit all three stitches together as if they were one stitch. [2 stitches decreased]
MB [Make Bobble]: Knit into the next stitch, leaving it on the left needle, [(yarn over, knit 1) into same stitch] two times. Turn work so wrong side is facing you, k5; turn work so right side is facing you, k2tog; return stitch to left needle, slip remaining three stitches of bobble over the k2tog stitch, knit that stitch, returning it to the right needle. For a full-photo tutorial on how to make this particular bobble, please click here.
sk2p [slip 1, k2tog, psso]: This is a left-slanting double decrease. Slip 1 purlwise, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch and off the needle. [2 stitches decreased]
Pattern
Body
Begin at the Belly
With the crochet hook and scrap yarn use a Provisional Cast On method to cast 46 stitches onto the larger double pointed needles.
Distribute the stitches on three double pointed needles, place a marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches. Join Main Yarn and…
Round 1: Knit.
Round 2: [P21, place a marker that is a different color than the end-of-the-round marker, k2] two times.
Round 3: Knit.
Round 4: [Purl to next marker, slip marker (sm), k2] two times.
Increase to Shape the Body
NOTE: Change to circular needles when necessary.
Increasing every round…
Round 5: [M1L, k2, *make bobble (MB, see Notes), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches increased]
Round 6: [M1L, purl to next marker, m1R, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches increased]
Repeat Rounds 5 and 6 three more times. [78 stitches]
Increasing every other round…
Round 7: [K2, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k2] two times.
Round 8: [M1L, purl to next marker, m1R, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches increased]
Round 9: [K1, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, MB, k1, sm, k2] two times.
Round 10: Repeat Round 8.
Round 11: [*MB, k3, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, sm, k2] two times.
Round 12: Repeat Round 8.
Round 13: [K3, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 4 stitches before next marker, MB, k3, sm, k2] two times.
Round 14: Repeat Round 8. [94 stitches]
Work Evenly
Round 15: [K2, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k2] two times.
Round 16: [Purl to next marker, sm, k2] two times.
Round 17: [*MB, k3, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, sm, k2] two times.
Round 18: Repeat Round 16.
Repeat Rounds 15-18 two more times.
Decrease for Neck and Tail
NOTE: Change to double pointed needles when necessary.
Round 19: K2, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, sk2p (see Notes), sm, k2, k3tog (see Notes), **k3, MB, repeat from ** to 2 stitches before next marker, k2, sm, k2. [90 stitches, 4 stitches decreased at head]
Round 20: K2tog, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, sk2p, sm, k2, k3tog, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2. [6 stitches decreased: 2 at tail, 4 at head]
Round 21: K3, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 5 stitches before next marker, MB, k1, sk2p, sm, k2, k3tog, k1, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 4 stitches before next marker, MB, k3, sm, k2. [80 stitches, 4 stitches decreased at head]
Round 22: Repeat Round 20. [74 stitches]
Round 23: *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k4, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, sm, k2.
Round 24: [K2tog, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches decreased: 2 at tail, 2 at head]
Round 25: K1, *MB, k3, repeat from * to next marker, sm, k5, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 2 stitches before next marker, MB, k1, sm, k2.
Round 26: Repeat Round 24. [66 stitches]
Round 27: K2tog, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, sm, k2, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, ssk, sm, k2. [64 stitches, 2 stitches decreased at tail]
Round 28: Repeat Round 24. [60 stitches]
Round 29: K2tog, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, MB, k1, sm, **k3, MB, repeat from ** to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2. [58 stitches, 2 stitches decreased at tail]
Round 30: Repeat Round 24. [54 stitches]
Round 31: K2tog, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k4, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, ssk, sm, k2. [52 stitches, 2 stitches decreased at tail]
Round 32: Repeat Round 24. [48 stitches]
Round 33: K2tog, *MB, k3, repeat from * to next marker, sm, k5, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, ssk, sm, k2. [46 stitches, 2 stitches decreased at tail]
Remove beginning-of-round marker and slip the last stitch of the last round onto the left needle.
Cut yarn, leaving an approximately 30-inch tail.
Divide the stitches in half, sliding 23 stitches to each end of the circular needle or arranging them onto two double pointed needles.
Holding the needles parallel to each other, use Kitchener Stitch to graft together the two sides of the Bobble Sheep’s back.
Weave in the ends.
NOTE: You will notice in the pictures that I next stuffed the Sheep and closed the Belly. However, I recommend making the Face, the Ears, and the Tail before you stuff the Sheep and graft its Belly. Live and learn!
Make Head + Ears
Orienting the Sheep right side up, locate the Neck section, as shown above.
Using the Contrast Yarn and the smaller double pointed needles, pick up 92 stitches around the strip of stockinette stitches at the Neck.
To do this, start at the left bottom of the Neck, pick up 3 stitches in each of the next fifteen stitches along the left side of the Neck, two stitches along the top, rotate the Sheep and pick up 3 stitches in each of the fifteen stitches along the right side. (To pick up 3 stitches in one stitch, pick up and knit one stitch, yarn over, bring the needle back into the same stitch and knit to pick up another stitch.) [92 stitches]
Distribute the stitches on three double pointed needles, place a marker and join for working in the round.
Set-up Round: K16, [place a different color marker, k30] two times, place a different color marker, knit to end of round.
Round 1: K1, m1L, knit to first marker, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, knit to last stitch, m1R, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Round 2: Knit to first marker, sm, k2tog, knit to two before third marker, ssk, sm, knit to end of round. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 five more times. [68 stitches]
Round 3: Knit to first marker, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, knit to end of round. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rounds 2 and 3. [58 stitches]
Repeat Round 2 one more time. [56 stitches]
Round 4: K2tog, knit to first marker, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, knit to last 2 stitches, ssk. [6 stitches decreased]
Repeat Round 4, removing first and third marker. [44 stitches]
Round 5: K2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, ssk. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat Round 5 two more times. [32 stitches]
Cut yarn leaving an approximately 16-inch tail.
Divide stitches in half, placing the first 16 stitches on the first double pointed needle and the second 16 stitches on the second double pointed needle. Use Kitchener Stitch to graft together the two sides of the Head.
Weave in the ends.
Make the Right Ear
Using the Contrast Yarn and the smaller double pointed needles, pick up 18 stitches for the Right Ear (the ear on the right, if looking at the sheep).
To do this, count four stitches down from the top right side of the Sheep’s Head (just above a bobble). Pick up 3 stitches in this stitch and in the next two stitches above it (9 stitches so far). Then rotate the sheep and pick up 3 stitches in each of the stitches directly across from those you just picked up, working back towards the starting point. (18 stitches)
**Place marker and join for working in the round.
Knit 4 rounds. At the end of the fourth round, remove marker and turn work. You will no longer knit in the round, but back and forth in rows, turning the work at the end of each row.
Row 1 (inside of ear): Purl.
Row 2 (outside of ear): Knit.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Repeat Row 1.
Next Row: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Next Row: Purl.
Repeat last two rows 6 more times. [4 stitches]
Next Row: Ssk, k2tog. [2 stitches]
Bind off purlwise.
Weave in the ends.
Make the Left Ear
Making the Left Ear (the ear on the left, if looking at the sheep) is very similar to making the Right Ear. The only difference is where you pick up the stitches.
Find the bobble across from the bobble you used as the starting point for the Right Ear. Pick up 3 stitches in each of the next 3 stitches above that bobble. Rotate the sheep and pick up 3 stitches in each of the next 3 stitches along the side of the Sheep’s Head, working back towards the starting point. [18 stitches]
Repeat steps under Make the Right Ear starting at **.
Tail
With Main Yarn and the larger double pointed needles, pick up 12 stitches as shown above. Here’s how…
Facing the Sheep’s rear, locate the left side of the left stitch that is 5 stitches down from the end of the Sheep’s back. Starting there, pick up 5 stitches up the left side, 2 stitches along the ridge of the Sheep’s back and 5 stitches down the right side the Sheep’s rear. [12 stitches]
Working back and forth in rows…
Knit 4 rows.
Next Row: Bind off 1 stitch, knit to end. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat last row 3 more times. [8 stitches]
Bind off.
Legs
NOTE: Before you make the Legs, stuff the Sheep loosely, then pick up the stitches from the Provisional Cast On, divide them in half and use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the Belly closed.
Using the Contrast Yarn and the smaller double pointed needles, pick up 26 stitches at one end of the Sheep’s Belly, as shown above. Here’s how…
Pick up 3 stitches in each of the 4 stitches along one side of the Belly [12 stitches], pick up 1 stitch along the center of the Belly, rotate the sheep and pick up 12 stitches along the other side of the Belly and one last stitch along the center. [26 stitches]
Distribute stitches on three double pointed needles, place a marker and join for working in the round.
Round 1: [K12, p1] two times.
Repeat Round 1 until Leg measures 4 inches from the pick-up round. NOTE: If you are making the Gentle Giant version, repeat Round 1 until Leg measures 5 inches.
Next Round: [K11, ssk] two times. [24 stitches]
Cut yarn, leaving a 10-inch tail.
Divide stitches in half, placing the first 12 stitches on one double pointed needle and the second 12 stitches on a second double pointed needle. Use Kitchener Stitch to graft together the two sides of the Leg.
Make a second Leg at the other end of the Sheep’s Belly.
Weave in the ends and you are all finished with your Bobble Sheep!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
This is the cutest thing EVER—I'm such a total beginner but I would LOVE to make one of these—I have a friend who has pet sheep, she taught me to knit, and this would be the cutest gift for her… *sigh*
I love this sheep pillow!! Thank you for sharing the pattern.
this is more complicated than i first thought… it is absolutely adorable tho. i will undo and try again!!! LOL…
Thank you so much for sharing lovely patterns like this one! You are so creative!
How wonderful. It would be like having a soft cloud on the sofa or bed. I have got to make it. It is on my list.
This is absolutely adorable! Thanks for sharing… can't wait to make one!
I am so glad I discovered your website!! You have such lovely, unique, creative, unusual patterns!!! Thank you so much for sharing!!!! I think this sheep pillow will be the first project, followed by the gorgeous owl pillow : )
This reminds me of the hot water bottle covers my kids had years ago. They were sew from fleece and the head of the sheep lifted off & on the bottle's neck. I wonder if I can figure out how adjust these instructions to accommodate that idea for my grandchildren. Hmmmm…..
YAY! Need a Ravelry Page!
Hi Lisa J-
We have a Ravelry page that you can see here: http://www.ravelry.com/designers/purl-soho
Thanks so much for writing in!
Molly
I want one of those wall candle sconces in photo #2!!!! Oh yes, I will be trying the pillow too. 🙂
Hi Lisa… Here is the direct link…
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bobble-sheep-pillow
Laura
This is the cutest thing! I have always loved sheep – unfortunately I think I would do better with this pattern if it was crocheted. Any chance there is a crochet version? Thank you so much for posting this.
Hi Wendy-
We don't have plans to make a crocheted version of this pattern, but thank you so much for the suggestion.
If you check out the comments from the front page of this story a reader named Ina had a suggestion for a bobbled crochet stitch pattern from ravelry: http://purlbee.squarespace.com/the-purl-bee/2013/3/3/lauras-loop-bobble-sheep-pillow.html#comments
Thank you for writing in!
Molly
Hello
This sheep is great!
Please can I use a picture or two from this along with a link on my little blog?
Thanks
Hi Nik-
You can use a photo if you link directly back to the story for the instructions.
Thank you for asking!
Molly
I love so much your knitted sheep ! Thanks a lot for the tuto, I hope I will succeed in traducing it in French before beginning knitting. It is a challenge, but I will try to do it.
I have a question about the pattern… in row 13, it says “*K3, MB, K3… repeat from *…” but if you do this, there will be a larger gap between bobbles (K6) and it will throw off the pattern. Should it instead say “K3, *MB, K3… repeat from *…”?
Flossie.
Thank you so much for writing in! Yes, the asterisk is in the wrong place. It should be [K3, *MB, k3,,,”
I have corrected the pattern.
Thank you again!
Laura
After the “Make Bobble” paragraph, there are two more paragraphs before “Begin at the Belly.” Are those two paragraphs (one begins “Slip 1 …” and the other begins “Knit 3 together”) part of the bobble?
Hi Elizabeth,
Those two following paragraphs are explanations of the knitting abbreviations SK2P and K3tog, respectively. These abbreviations are used in the pattern.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Laura
Thank you, Laura. After starting to knit row 5 which has the first MB, I realized only the first paragraph referred to the bobble. I appreciate you being so kind in your reply. I should have read the whole pattern carefully.
This sheep is absolutely cute. I will try to make my own sheep from this instruction. Thank you very much for sharing this.
All the best.
Steffilie
Hi Lauren,
I'm in the midst of knitting my sheep but I can't find where you explain what m1l and m1r mean. What is this shorthand for?
round 17 is incorrect
Any chance one could purchase the completed pillow? (I would love to learn to knit someday, but this pillow would be a perfect item to contribute to my kids' school fundraiser – since we have two sheep in residence)! The auction is in less than a month. I'm a pretty quick learner, but not that quick. Thanks!
So cute!
I wish your patterns were easier to print out. I copied and pasted this into another program, but it would have been 50 pages!
Hi Mary-
We know this is a problem but unfortunately right now there isn't a super simple way to print them. We suggest that you copy and past the text and photos into a Word or Text doc and then print from there.
Thank you!
Molly
Hi Carrie-
We don't sell any of our finished items. If you'd like to find a custom knitter to knit it for you you can call our shop at 212-420-8796 and they might be able to give you some names.
Thank you!
Molly
I have been working on the bobble sheep pillow
Bobbling right along
I am at round 17 and the pattern may have an error
Round 17. [*MB, k3 , repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k2]
2 times. If I knit to one stitch before next marker MB there is not 2 stitches to k2 because I am already at the marker.
Any clarifications will be helpful. This round is repeated 3 times. I don't want it to throw off my future rounds.
Thank you
Mary e Andrews
Hello Mary e Andrews,
You are correct. Round 17 had a typo!
it was:
[*MB, k3 , repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k2]
it should be (and now is):
[*MB, k3 , repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, sm, k2]
eliminating that k2 after the MB towards the end of the line.
Thank you so much for bringing this to our attention.
Please let us know how you find the rest of the pattern.
Thanks again,
Laura
Maria,
Please see my response to Mary E Andrews above, regarding Round 17.
Thank you for taking the time to write in.
Laura
Hi Zoe,
Sorry about that. I forgot to make those abbreviations hyperlinks (words that when clicked on they will take you to another page, explaining them) Here is a link to a tutorial for that abbreviation:
http://purlbee.squarespace.com/make-1-right-left-tutorial/
Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Laura
the instructions for picking up stitches are incorrect. If you “repeat one more time” you get five stitches, not three
Maria,
Thank you for taking the time to write in. I have corrected the typo.
Much appreciated.
Laura
I love it! I have no idea if this lapsed beginner knitter (like, ahem, 20 years lapsed) could make one, but I really want to try, though I suppose it would probably be easier if I just brought one of my real sheep into the house and set it on the sofa. 😉
I kept thinking maybe my problem with round 23 was knitter/operator error, but I have analyzed and think there is a problem – which I don't know how to fix. Round 23 has 74 stitches; 35 + 2 + 35 + 2. The “2s” are the knit stitches in between the bobble sections. The pattern for the first 35 is correct. The 2nd 35 stitches says “k4 **MB k3, repeat from ** to 1 stitch before next marker MB …” If one knits 4 stitches and then “MB k3” 7 times for another 28 stitches, one is left with 3 stitches, not 1 stitch. One can't knit 4 stitches and MB k3 eight times because that would be 4 + 32 = 36 stitches and one has only 35 stitches. Help!
Hi Elizabeth:
Thank you so much for taking the time to write in.
I cannot find an error in Round 23.
You (bobble and k3) up to the last three stitches, bobble again, k2 slip the marker, k2 (for those knits between the bobble sections, “2s” you called them) then k2 more for the beginning of the back bobble sections (this reads k4 in the pattern), then you go on to (bobble and k3) until nearly the end and then one more bobble before the next “2s” (as you called them) that divide the front and back.
I think maybe you were knitting 2 to end the front bobble section, knitting 2 for the “2s” (out of habit and knowing the work so well) and then knitting 4…. BUT that 4 inclues the “2s”.
Does that make any sense?
Please please please let me know if you have more questions on this or other parts!
Laura
Yes, Laura – it makes perfect sense – you're right – it was “operator/knitter” error on my part – I have put a marker on either side of the 2's and so after I slipped the marker and started on the back I knit 4 which is why it didn't work out. Thank you, thank you.
Hi, Laura – me again – I've finished the body and stitched the back together and started the head – and I'm stumped. Probably “knitter error.” The set-up row is k16 pm k30 pm k30 pm k16 – and there's a beginning-of-the-round marker. Four sections.
My problem is in the second section: the number of stitches in the 2nd section is decreased by 2 every time one does round 1 or 2, and one does round 1, round 2, and then one repeats round 1 and round 2 five times – for a total of 12 times (6 round 1's and 6 round 2's). That means the number of stitches in the 2nd section is decreased 2 x 12 or 24 stitches – 30 minus 24 is 6. So far so good.
Round 3 calls for decreasing the number of stitches in the 2nd section by 2, Now we're down to 4 stitches. The next instruction says “Repeat Rounds 2 and 3” Now we're down to zero stitches.
Question here: If there are only 4 stitches in the second section and one does the k2tog and then the ssk to leave one with 2 stitches, how do you decrease to zero on 2 stitches in the next round?
I don't know how to do Round 4 if I have no stitches in the second section.
Help, help.
I think I know what I did – it is another case of “knitter error.” I misunderstood round 2 – when it says “knit to two before the third marker,” it means the one after the third section, right? The 2 decreases in round 2 aren't both in the second section – there's one in each section. Arghhh.
The markers are #1 after the first 16 stitches, #2 after the next 30 stitches, #3 after the next 30 stitches. And then there's the beginning-of-the-round marker which doesn't have a designation like “first” or “third.” Is that right?
Please tell me about that sconce. I have been looking for something exactly like that for my 1700s house.
Elizabeth!
Yes! that is correct (regarding the stitch markers).
It is really helpful to hear your feedback and where things are difficult to understand. It helps us improve our pattern writing.
Please keep writing in with questions.
Laura
Hi Laura,
I have a question about the 930-1130 neck reference; did you mean that the neck is on the two bottom needles between 930 &330?
also, with regards to picking up the top two stitches, are they on a separate needle? From the picture it looks like they are included with the other 90 stitches on the same needles.
how are the stitches distributed across 5 dpns?
please advise
thanks!
Hi Tammy,
Regarding the 9:30 to 11:30 question… If you are looking at the sheep and it is in profile and the beginning of round is to your right, then the slopped area is located from about 9:30 to 11:30, if you pretend the sheep is a clock.
Regarding the top two stitches… I believe I picked them up with their own needle, but then reorganized the stitches as shown in the picture above. I used stitch markers as a guide, rather than keeping certain number of stitches on each needle. As I worked I would knit of the following needle every once in a while to keep from getting gaps between the last and first stitches on adjacent needles.
Please let me know if I can be more clear or if you have any other questions.
Laura
Thanks for the FYI. I decided to use magic loop instead of DPNs, and I have been following the stitch markers. That is a great suggestion, and it simplified the instructions.
Hello! I am at the part where you graft the sheep together for the first time(at the top) and I am wondering if my working yarn is in the correct area. When I hold the two needles parallel in my left hand the working yarn is on the front needle on the first stitch. The few times that I have done the kitchener stitch the yarn was on the back needle on the first stitch. I did slip the first stitch of the last round, but I'm not sure if I did that correctly either. Thank you for your help!
Thank you for being so patient, Laura. My sheep bobble pillow is getting rave reviews from the knitters I've shown it to.
I do have another question – I'm ready to start the right ear. The directions say “count four stitches down from the top, right side of the Sheep's Head (right above a bobble). Pick up 3 stitches in this stitch, and in the next two stitches above it (9 stitches so far).” If I turn my sheep so the head is to the left, as in your photo, the nose of the sheep is away from me rather than the top being away from me. Is the photo for the left ear?
Also, it looks like your yarn is going through both white and black stitches. Is this how it's supposed to be done? I tried to pick up stitches just on the head and gave up – too tight. And wasn't happy with picking them up just on the white stitches. Too much white showing. So I'm going to try to “grab” some white and some black (well, in my case, dark brown).
Thank you again for being so nice to this pesky knitter.
Elizabeth
Also, I can't figure out how to join the picked up stitches for the ear so that the purl side isn't on the outside, unless I pick up stitches away from the head first and then close to the head, up and around and down, counter-clockwise, which is how the stitches for the head are picked up (starting at the left bottom, up to the top and across, and down the other side). Is this how it is supposed to be done? Or is the purl side supposed to be on the outside? The photos of the ears look like the knit side is showing, not the purl side.
Okay, I did it my way and it is wrong – the opening of the ear is facing up and I'm pretty sure it should be facing down. So maybe what I have to do for picking up stitches for the right ear is start at the top and go down along the contrasting stitches of the head and then back up instead of vice-versa. Yes? I'll try it.
I'm excited to report that I'm going to start making this adorable pillow. However, I'm concerned about stuffing it. Do you have any suggestions? Is there a specific size pillow that will fit in the body? If I'm to use fiber stuffing, how do you avoid the fibers from poking through to the outside? THANKS!!
Hi Olivia,
I filled the sheep with stuffing. If you are nervous though, you could whip up a little muslin pillow to insert into it. I don't believe the body of the sheep aligns with an standard size pillows at 19 x 14.
The stuffing hasn't come through mine at all yet. If you are knitting at the right gauge, it should stay in there.
Thanks.
Laura
Wow, I love this. I crochet. I used to knit, I find knitting harder. I may try to do this, however, if you ever crochet one I would love to see it. Awesome project.
Thank you!
Hello!
I am just starting on the sheep. I am not used to DPNs, and would like to know when you suggest moving over to the circular needles. I'm only on round 6, and already the stitches are taking up most of the needles.
Thank you!
Hi Tonia,
Great questions.
I switched to circular needles fairly early on. As soon as there are enough stitches to fit around the circular without stretching or staining the stitches, you can switch over from the DPNs.
Hope you enjoy the project.
Laura
Dear Laura,
Thank you for this cute cute cute sheep pillow 🙂
I am about to start it. Just a question : do I really need the double pointed needles to start the belly or can I knit with circular needles instead (considering that you suggested to switch to circular needles a few rounds after)?
Thank you for sharing the pattern with us and keep up the good work 🙂
Alice
Hi Alice.
Thank you for the kind words.
The initial number of stitches is not enough to reach around the circular needles without stretching them out. Plus, you will need the double points to make the tail as well.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions along the way!
Laura
Hi Alice.
Thank you for the kind words.
The initial number of stitches is not enough to reach around the circular needles without stretching them out. Plus, you will need the double points to make the tail as well.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions along the way!
Laura
Have just stumbled across your fab sheep cushion. I think it's wonderful!
On row 5, when you are making the bobble, knit 3, are you counting the knit stitch from the bobble plus 2 sts, or are you counting the knitted bobble as part of the bobble stitch and then knitting 3 sts in between each bobble?
Hi Joan,
There should be three stitches between each bobble.
Thanks,
Laura
This is just adorable and I would think any knitter would like to make one just for the novelty of making sheep out of sheep. My only hesitation is cost. Is there another wool that might work instead? I have so many projects that I've purchased yarn for recently and I just have a hard time spending so much on what is basically a pillow. An amazingly cute pillow but still, a pillow.
Thank you
Denise
Hi Denise.
Of course! You could do it out of a number of different yarns. The sheep might end up a big bigger or smaller depending on which you choose. Just be sure to swatch to make sure you are working on needles that will produce a nice fabric. Here are some suggestions.
Cascade's Baby Alpaca: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/2142-Cascade-Yarns-Baby-Alpaca-Chunky
Swan's Island's Bulky: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8384-Swans-Island-Bulky
Purl Soho's Worsted Twist: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9239-Purl-Soho-Worsted-Twist
Cascade's Eco Cloud: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8065-Cascade-Yarns-Eco-Cloud
Cascade's Superwash 128: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/6355-Cascade-Yarns-Superwash-128
Let us know how it goes!
Laura
Just a quick question regarding the yarn.
As a grad student, I can't really afford solid wool or alpaca. Acrylic 4 life. However, I cannot find the yardage of this project. Approximately how many yards do I need for the wooly portion of the sheep? I'm sticking to size 11 needles and my gauge is usually spot on, or even a little tighter, so I'm not worried about falling out of sync with what you've written. An approximation will be just fine.
Thank you in advance!
Hi Christine.
I used 4 skeins of our Super Soft Merino (87 yards a skein) for the 'wooly' part, equaling approximately 348 yards. Hope you enjoy the project!
Laura
Just a quick question regarding the bobbles.
I can make sense of your tutorial, and I can manage most of the steps, but I'm having trouble with the multiple yarn overs and the knitting into the same stitch. I end up with a tangled mess of too-tight stitches that aren't knittable. I think I'm doing something wrong. I kept the stitch on the left and continued to enter that stitch as if to knit. Any chance you could go into more depth on that first step with the increases? I tried a google search but it yielded nothing, so any tips would be wholly welcomed. Thank you!
Hi Jen.
I'm happy to try and explain it more…
So you knit into the stitch where you'd like your bobble to be, *but do not let the stitch you're knitting into drop off the left needle, bring your yarn to the front, bring it over the right needle to the back, knit into the same stitch again, repeat from * once more, then you can let it drop off the left needle.
I hope this helps clarify.
Please write in again if you have any questions!
Laura
I absolutely love this pillow. Thank you so much for the written instruction.
In spite of my arthritic hands cringing at the making of bobbles, I'm going to make this because it is too irresistible. Thanks again….it's delightful!!!!!
This sheep is wonderful. I purchased the supplies from you a few days back, and have made great progress. I'm getting ready to stuff the sheep. Would you be able to recommend any materials for stuffing the sheep? I have regular polyfil but thought that something made from such soft, lovely and natural yarn might deserve the softest filling possible! Thank you.
Hello Desiree,
I used Polyfil, but I love your instinct to treat your Sheep to the finest. I think that Bamboo would be lovely or cotton. Both will be a bit denser and heavier than the Poly but it will give your Sheep a sturdiness.
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/4575-Fairfield-Bamboo-Fiber-Fill
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/2058-Quilters-Dream-Sweet-Dreams-Stuffing
Laura
I have successfully gotten through the body of the pillow. Excellent pattern, by the way! Easy to read and chug along. I can't thank you enough for sharing this.
I'm stuck on the face now though. I've picked up 23 stitches with two needles, but that extends the length of the 9:30/11:30 neck. There appears to be 4 "rows" of loops I can pick up from (two rounds making the "V" stitch-shape = 4 loops). Do I draw from these four, placed into quadrants for my dpns or is there something I'm missing. I guess I'm not entirely clear how to pick up all 92 of the stitches. Any point in the right direction should help. Thanks ahead of time <:
Hi Christine.
I am thrilled you like the pattern. I'm sorry the face has slowed you down. Let's see if we can figure this out. I believe I understand what you are referring to when you say 4 loops. I picked up 3 stitches from the outer legs of fifteen stitches along the two sides. (You can see the inner legs or halves of the stitches in the photo above.) And I picked up 2 stitches at the top and 2 stitches at the bottom. I am not sure if this clears things up. Please feel free to write back and if you leave your email address (which is only visible to the site's administrators) I can contact you for you to email me a photo of what you have.
Thanks for writing in. I hope we can get this working for you.
Laura
I wonder if the stuffing will come poking out with use? Was this lined? Any suggestion?
Row 5 reads:
Round 5: [M1L, k2, *make bobble (MB), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times. (4 stitches increased)
But when I begin my second repeat and I M1L I have 3 stitches. the next direction is to k2, but this gives me 5 stitches before bobble versus 3. Is this an error? Should second repeat have 5 stitches before MB? Or what am I doing wrong?
Hello Steff.
I understand why this seems off, but the pattern is correct. If you keep going with the pattern, you will see that there are two knit stitches at the half way point (those last k2 stitches inside the brackets) and at the very end of each round. These two stitches at each end of the sheep, carry up rear and chest sides of the sheep, kind of like seams. If you can, just work a few more rounds following the pattern. If you are still confused, please please please write back in and we will figure it out together.
Thanks,
Laura
Hello Again Steff,
I have not experienced any stuffing coming out of the sheep, but as a grown up, I do not handle the sheep as a child would. Perhaps lining it with some muslin wouldn't be a bad idea.
Thanks,
Laura
When you say make the sheep's right ear, and the sheep is facing me, does that mean the ear across from my left ear (mirror image)?
I am finding the ears a bit of a challenge and am on my 4th try, so want to start with as much clarification as possible.
I wonder if it would be possible to make a little tutorial video for making the ears and post it with the pattern. From my review of the notes on the Ravelry project page and these note pages, it seems that it is a particularly challenging part of the pattern.
But it is so adorable!
Hi Steff.
If you are facing your sheep, the sheep's left ear is across from your right ear as if looking in a mirror, yes.
I am glad you read the notes both here and on Ravelry. We really appreciate you sharing your experience with the pattern with us. We are currently putting together a list of videos we'd like to tackle next and this will definitely go on the list. Thank you again for the suggestion.
Is there anything I can help clarify with the ears? Is there something in particular that is confusing you? Please write us back with any questions!
Laura
A couple of other follow up questions about knitting the ears:
1. The photo under the heading for making the right ear looks to me like it is a photo of making the sheep's left ear. Is that possible? If not, could you help visually orient me in terms of that photo? I rely a lot on the photos to help me understand the written directions.
2. When picking up the first 3 (sets of 3) stitches are you inserting the knitting needle under 1 or 2 stitch legs to pick up stitches?
Thanks again for your patience with my questions.
Steff.
I'm so glad you wrote back.
1.THANK YOU. You are correct, the pattern had the two ears mixed up. I have since fixed the pattern. The photos are definitely of making the sheep's left ear. Thank you so much for bringing this to my attention!
2. Just one stitch leg.
Thank you again for this back and forth. I appreciate you taking the time.
Best,
Laura
The written directions for the sheep's ears seem to be mixed up….photo of left ear followed by directions which seem to be for the right ear, but not sure…and so on. I have been able to figure out how to get the ears correctly, but initially, when following the directions, was ending up with the purl sides facing out. Would you be able to double check the ear portion of the written pattern for accuracy? Thanks.
Hello Again Steff.
The pattern was initially written as if you are looking at the sheep. This seemed to cause some confusion. So we changed the pattern to be in reference to the sheep (the sheep's left ear vs the right ear, if looking at the sheep). This did not seem to help clarify, so we hare returned the pattern to its original state.
The purl stitches should be on the inside of the ear. I am not sure how you managed to get them on the outside, except for perhaps turning your work and beginning working in rows at the wrong point and purling the outside rather than knitting it?
I do appreciate you sharing your experience with the pattern. The face is definitely the most challenging part. I do hope you enjoy the remainder of the pattern.
Thanks,
Laura
Hi Laura,
Thank you for your attentiveness and quick replies to my questions. My sheep is done and very cute!
Hello Laura,
I really enjoyed knitting this sheep. The pattern is very easy to follow along. But now I am starting on the head and I am stuck. I hope that you could offer some help please.
I have picked up 92 stitches using 4 double pointed needles. Starting from the left bottom of the neck, going upward, pick up 45 stitches along the way, then pick up 2 stitches on the top. Then I rotate the sheep and pick up 45 stitches going down on the right side.
So now I am facing the sheep's head. I have the working yarn on the lower bottom right neck on the sheep. This is where I am stuck.
I am not sure which direction I should start knitting. Do I knit clock-wise starting from the bottom left of the neck? That doesn't seem right to me.
Could you please help me?
Thank you so much.
Hi Coco.
It sounds like you've done everything perfectly to this point.
Now you are going to want to connect for working in the round and knit into that first stitch you picked up… In other words, you'll continue to work counter clockwise, just as you did when picking up (or working the sheep's body in the round or anything else in the round). I hope this makes sense and please do not hesitate to write back with any more questions.
Laura
Thank you so much Laura. I think I am getting to understand it now.
I am completely new to knitting. So II missed the properly way to do "join for working in the round".
Is this how you join for working in the round? You basically swap the first stitch you picked up with the last stitch you picked up.
After swapping, I knit into the first stitch and continue knitting counter clockwise.
Thank you so much for your help, Laura.
Hi Coco,
This is a heck of a project for a new knitter. I'm impressed!
I am not totally sure what you mean by "swap the first stitch you picked up with the last stitch you picked up".
Have you seen our tutorial on double pointed needles? It might help clarify a few things.
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/knitting-tutorials-working-rnd/2008/7/25/double-pointed-needles.html
Essentially, you just never turn your work. After you pick up that last stitch, you knit into the first stitch you picked up (usually placing a stitch marker between the two as a reminder for where the beginning/end of the round is).
Please write me back if you're still stumped or have other questions!
Laura
Thank you so much, Laura for your help.
I finally understand. I got confused because for the head, I don't need to turn my work.
I am now un-stuck and very happy working along on the head.
Hello,
First I want to tell you who much I like this site. I have made several item with great success. My favorite so far is the snowflake scarf! But I am just in love with this lamb and I am trying to make this for a friend who is expecting. I am only on round 5 and stuck. The directions say
Round 5: [M1L, k2, *make bobble (MB), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times. (4 stitches increased)
I am at the point of 3 stitches before first marker and have made 5 bobbles. Am I supposed to knit the next 3 stitches or MB, k2 m1R, sm, k2?
If I am not knitting the 3 stitches before the marker then I will have two bobbles next to each other and I don't have the correct count to end the round. Please help.
Thank you again,
Mary
Hi Mary.
Thank you for writing in and for your kind words about the Purl Bee! Now let's get you un-stumped!
Round 5: [M1L, k2, *make bobble (MB), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times. (4 stitches increased)
So, when you are three stitches before the first marker, you should MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2. At this point you will start from the beginning of the bracket again.
I am not sure why the stitch count is off to complete the round. Have you double checked? And the two bobble so near each other is fine and good and what the pattern calls for.
Please let me know if this round is still giving you trouble. We are always here for new or follow up questions.
Laura
I'm knitting this adorable pillow now and noticed that the tail in the pattern doesn't look like the tail in the photo (garter stitch?) Can you explain the difference?
Thanks,
Jennie
Hi Jennie.
They're the same! The tail in the how-to photos is the exact tail as in the beauty shots at the top of the post. I took the photo as I made the sheep. Oh and yes, the tail is done in garter stitch.
Is there a particular part of the tail's construction that has you stumped? I'd love to help you with the pattern if you'd like.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I'm just finishing my sheep and am totally in love with him. Everyone who's seen him thinks he's adorable!
My question is: I'd love to make a scarf using this same super soft merino with bobbles (perhaps two or three rows of them running lengthwise down the middle.
Can you suggest a pattern I might adapt?
This yarn is the softest I've ever seen. Can't get enough of it!
Thanks!
Hi Marti,
I'm so happy to hear you love your sheep! And the yarn!
You could work a simple garter stitch scarf and throw in bobbles where you see fit. I like your idea of them running lengthwise in a few rows, maybe they could be staggered like they are on the sheep, although, in straight lines could be cool too.
I can't think of a pattern off the top of my head, but I will keep your request in mind!
Have you looked on Ravelry? (It's an online network of people and designers and yarn manufacturers with loads of patterns to browse though, many of which are free.)
Thanks for sharing your experience with this pattern.
Laura
Hi, I have a comment about the tail as well. Is the tail knitted back and forth and not in the round? Just want to make sure.
Thanks so much and I love this sheep!
Bridget
Hey Bridget.
The sheep's tail is in fact knit back and forth. Not in the round.
Glad you like the sheep!
Laura
Hi! I just wanted to start by saying that this pattern is ADORABLE. You are an incredibly talented designer.
I'm just wondering, I'm trying to start an etsy shop (you know the story, trying to get through college and every penny helps!), but I am not the best designer. I would really like to knit up this pattern to sell the items to people who can't knit, putting a crediting link in obviously, but of course I don't want to do that without your permission!!! So I'm wondering if that would be alright with you? I won't if it isn't!
Thanks,
-Kate
Hi Kate-
Thank you for getting in touch about this and for your kind words about the pattern. All of our patterns are for home use only and cannot be made for sale so selling this in your etsy store won't be possible. But good luck with the store and thanks again for getting in touch!
Molly
I have tried knitting and decided I love crocheting more. Any chance you could convert the sheep pattern to crochet?
Hi Nancy-
We don’t have plans to re-write this pattern for crochet but thanks for the suggestion. For all of our crochet project you can go to this link: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/category/crochet/projects-crochet/
Thanks!
Molly
Hi!
I’m SO excited about making this pillow, however I just started and am already stumped. 🙁 When I get to round 5, I don’t end up with 3 stitches before my marker, I only end up with two. I suspect it’s because I’m doing the M1L between the first two stitches in the row, but I’m not sure how to M1L without doing that? Is it possible to do the M1L at the start of the row? Am I supposed to be knitting in the round and doing the M1L between the last stitch of round 4 and the first stitch of round 5? I’ve restarted twice with the correct number of stitches cast on and just can’t seem to figure out what’s getting me the wrong number of stitches. Any help you can offer would be MUCH appreciated. Thanks!!
Hi Nathalie.
I’d love to help you figure this out!
Yes, your stitch count is off before the marker because you increased after working one stitch. But what you should have done is… Right after finishing Round 4, slip your beginning-of-round marker, and then m1L!
I hope this helps!
Please let us know if you have any questions.
Laura
Hi Laura,
The sheep is lovely but I really wanted to make it for my baby girl coming soon in January. However 19 inches seems too large for a new born to 1-2 year old child. In case I want to make a smaller size what yarn/needles do you think I could use?
Also if I use a thinner yarn for the body (say number 4/5) do you think using felt fabric for the head and ears may make sense (given there needs to be a contrast in gauge between the two parts and I don’t know how small I could go on the head/ears part).
I have to say though that I love this site and have followed it for a while now. Made sweaters for nephews and baby sacks for my coming one…
Wish you all the best!
Kiran
Hi Kiran.
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words about the site! We’re always thrilled to hear such things. Thank you.
To shrink this sheep down some…
For the Body: I would maybe look at Manos del Uruguay’s Maxima: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/7529-Manos-Del-Uruguay-Maxima
For the Face, Ears, Legs, Tail: I like your idea of the felt. If you wanted to knit these parts though, you could still use the Blue Sky’s Sport Weight alpaca I think. That yarn is versatile. It can comfortably be knit on a pretty small needle. Or you could look at a sock/fingering weight yarn like Koigu’s KPM: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/410-Koigu-Wool-Designs-Koigu-Premium-Merino-KPM . This yarn is not quite as soft and cuddly at first, but it does soften up over time.
Please let us know if you have any questions, Kiran.
Thanks again for writing in.
Best,
Laura
I am having a fantastic time knitting this sheep so far! I’ve finished the body and am ready to graft the head. My boyfriend (who, of course, thinks his ideas are best), has suggested I also stuff the head and feet, thinking they wouldn’t be able to hold their own. I’m not sure I agree, lest it would be included in the pattern.
Any thoughts on this?
Hi Stacey.
I’m thrilled you’re enjoying this project.
I think a number of people have stuffed or lightly stuffed the head and feet. It looks great. I definitely like a light stuffing to a firm stuffing, so that the belly of this beast is the start of the show. Are you on Ravelry (www.ravelry.com)? You can see pictures of other people’s sheep on there and everyone has done it a bit differently. It may be work checking out.
Let us know how it goes!
Laura
I LOVE the sheepy! I had a great time with the bobbles, but now I’m at the head. I looked at the instructions and it says the neck is 9:30-11:30 (as on the clock’s face). Where the stitches go seem clear from the photo, put the 9:30/11:30 thing throws me. Can you help?
Nicki
Hi Nicki.
Thanks for writing in. Glad you love the Bobble Sheep!
If you turn the sheep so that you are facing the side of his body and then pretend the body makes up a horizontally oval shaped clock… The head goes where 9:30 to 11:30 would be. When making the body, this edge had shaping, it’s that slopped in portion of the oval where the head goes.
Does that help at all. It’s hard to describe. I apologize it’s not more clear. I have a feeling you know where it goes and our description is throwing you off. Go with your hunch.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
Ah! I missed the facing the SIDE of the body part of the description. Now I get it. I thought I was looking at it straight on with it’s body behind it. Thanks for the help with my misunderstanding.
Nicki
The head is all done! I’ve been stumped forever. Thanks!
Hi,
what a lovely piece of knitting. I am making this as a Christmas present but getting completely stuck with round 5.
Round 5: [M1L, k2, *make bobble (MB), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times. (4 stitches increased)
When I get to 5 stiches before the first marker (not the end of round marker), I have made a bobble so if I follow the pattern, another bobble will be made with only one stitch between them in order to do the MB, k2, m1R, sm bit. Is that the correct thing to do? I have the same problem with the repeat.
Also, is the pattern asymmetrical? In round 2, the first marker is 21 stitches from the end of round marker on one side and 25 stitches on the other if I follow:
Round 2: [P21, place a marker that is a different color than the end-of-the-round marker, k2] two times.
I think that this is the source of my problems and I must be mis-interpreting your pattern.
Any help would be much appreciated as trying to get this done whilst looking after 3 young children and a baby so very little time to knit!
Hi,
what a lovely piece of knitting. I am making this as a Christmas present but getting completely stuck with round 5.
Round 5: [M1L, k2, *make bobble (MB), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times. (4 stitches increased)
When I get to 5 stiches before the first marker (not the end of round marker), I have made a bobble so if I follow the pattern, another bobble will be made with only one stitch between them in order to do the MB, k2, m1R, sm bit. Is that the correct thing to do? I have the same problem with the repeat.
Also, is the pattern asymmetrical? In round 2, the first marker is 21 stitches from the end of round marker on one side and 25 stitches on the other if I follow:
Round 2: [P21, place a marker that is a different color than the end-of-the-round marker, k2] two times.
I think that this is the source of my problems and I must be mis-interpreting your pattern.
Any help would be much appreciated as trying to get this done whilst looking after 3 young children and a baby so very little time to knit! I have counted my stitches and tried to work it out on graph paper but getting in a terrible muddle!
Hi Rosalind.
I’m so sorry you’re stumped. Let’s try and figure this out!
Regarding the symmetry…
You have 46 stitches. In Round 2, you purl 21, place a marker, then knit two, then you do all that again… Purl 21, place a marker and knit two. At which point you’ll be at your end-of-round marker. I hope this helps clear up where all the markers are. Essentially there is a 21-stitch front, 2-stitch side, 21-stitch back, 2-stitch side.
Regarding Round 5…
You should have 6 stitches before the first maker when you’ve make your 5th bobble, which makes me wonder what increase method are you using. Are you increasing between stitches or in them? I am worried you’re losing a stitch with your first increase. Are you doing your m1L and m1R like this: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/08/13/make-one-right-m1r-make-one-left-m1l/
Below I have written out the beginning of Round 5 without using an asterisk. Maybe the long hand version will make things more clear?
You m1L, k2, make a bobble, k3, make a bobble, k3, make a bobble, k3, make a bobble, k3, make a bobble, k2, m1R…
Please write me back letting me know if any of this has helped clear things up or if you have any additional questions!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I’m stuck at this round two. In round 5, I make 1 left, knit two, make bubble, knit three, make bubble, knit three, make bubble, knit three .. = 1 + 2 + 1 + 3 + 1 + 3 + 1 +3 + 1 + 3 + 1 + 3 stitches .. This leaves me with only 2 stitches before the firstmarker if I am to make 5 bubbles as you say in your answer above . So if I make a bubble here, I can only knit 1 before the marker, instead of knit 2 before I make 1 right and then slip the marker.
.. Or, does round 5 actually start before the end-of-round marker, and I make one left just after purling the second set of 21 stitches in round 4 .. ?!
Hi Maria.
I’m worried you may be increasing in a stitch rather than between them.
The increases should not take away from the stitches. So it should be 0 + 2 + 1 + 3 + 1 + 3 + 1 +3 + 1 + 3 + 1 + 2 + 0 stitches.
Round 5 starts after the end-of-round marker.
Does this help at all?
Please let me know if I can clarify or if you have any questions!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Hello, I wrote the other day when I was at my wits end trying to figure out where I had made a mistake but after unravelling it and starting again it is all going to plan. Lesson learned; I should avoid knitting with children and babies running around my feet! Hopefully I will complete it in time for the Christmas post.
Thank you for sharing this pattern.
Oh good! Phew!
Great to hear.
Laura
Am just putting the finishing touches on this – made in Istex Lopi and Adriafil’s Sierra Andina – but with a zip under the belly.
It will be the BEST hot water bottle sheep for my sofa corner!
great pattern … i wish it was downloadable (pdf).
thanks
Hi Margaret-
You can easily convert this to a dowloadable PDF by clicking on the “print” icon to the left of this story. From there you can either print or save as a PDF and you can also remove any text of photos you don’t need.
Thank you!
Molly
the bobble sheep pillow is gorgeous love your web site
Hi,
I am just starting the pattern and was a little confused on Round 2. How many markers are there to be in total?
“Round 2: [P21, place a marker that is a different color than the end-of-the-round marker, k2] two times.”
I have 1 marker after the first 21 and then one more 2 stitches before the end of the row. I am to have 2, 3 or 4? This has made me unravel over and over after round 3 because my markers may not be in the right position :0p
Hi Jay.
I’m glad you wrote in!
It sounds like the you placed the 2 new parkers perfectly. There should be three markers total when including the end-of-round marker.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
Great hot water bottle holder. I added two sheets of 1/2″ batting inside to make the bottle more stable and increase insulation. Didn’t use as much stuffing, as sheep ‘grows’ when bottle is filled.
I am not a knitter, at least not a good one. Is it possible to convert to crochet? Or is there a website I can go to and try to convert myself?
Thank You,
Carrie Chisholm
Please Help
Hi Carrie-
We don’t have plans to rewrite this as a crochet pattern and it’s not a simple calculation. But you may have some luck finding a different pattern by doing a google search for crocheted sheep.
Sorry we can’t be of more help, thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
Molly,
You are killing me. Please rewrite this as a crochet pattern. Please.
-Rachel
I see where you recommend the Manos “Maxima” for a smaller pillow, but would Purl Soho “Flax Down” be a good alternative as well? And could I use my left over “Line Weight” for the face and legs? Though that may need to be knitted double-stranded, I suppose.
Hey Sarah,
Flax Down would be a great alternative!!! You’ll have to tell us how it goes.
I think the Line Weight is going to be too thin for the face and legs. Unless you double strand it like you suggested. Do you have any other fingering weight yarns around, like Koigu’s KPM perhaps. Scale wise (like the Blue Sky to the Super Soft Merino) I think Koigu’s KPM would go nicely with the Flax Down… only if you don’t want to fuss with doubling the Line Weight which I think would work too!
You must keep us posted on how this goes. We might just have to make a whole flock of Bobble Sheep Pillows for the store in our different yarns!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Dear Laura,
Thank you so much for this pattern, I’m having a great time knitting this for my niece. I checked the previous comments and hope this question hasn’t been asked before:
I’m doing the ears right now, so far everything turned out great. I am stuck at the ‘turning the work’ part where you write that you stop knitting in the round (after the 4 round ones) but go back and forth. As I understand it one row are the 9 stitches on the inside of the ear, the 9 stitches left on the outside of the ear.
Now, when I did the first purl on the inside and first knit on the outside, I turn the work and purl on the outside or do I purl again on the inside? I can’t seem to get that part right… And when I start to decrease, one row is still the outside part and one the inside part?
I hope I’m clear enough in explaining my problem, can you please help me?
Kind regards,
Annabel
Hi Annabel.
I’m glad you wrote in and thrilled you’re enjoying the pattern. As for the ears…
I am not entirely clear about these 9 inside and 9 outside stitches you speak of.
You’ll work flat, back and forth across all the ear stitches as follows…
You’ll work 4 rounds. Then, start working back and forth.
Purl one round.
Knit one round.
Purl one round.
Knit one round.
Purl one round.
Then… on the next row, you’ll be on a right (knit) side row, and you’ll decrease.
Then… on the next row, you’ll be on a wrong (purl) side row, and you’ll simply purl across.
Then you’ll repeat these two rows 6 more times.
Then you’ll work one more right (knit) side row and decrease.
Then you’ll bind off purlwise.
I do hope this helps.
Please write me back.
Laura
Dear Laura,
Thank you for your reply, I have finished the ears now. I missed the part that the ears are flat and not round, they only start round. It’s really clear to me now also in the description so thanks for rewriting it again! English is not my mother language (as you have noticed), I better read everything twice from now on;).
Kind regards from Antwerp!
Annabel
Hi – I too am confused by the ears. I pick up 9 stitches on a double pointed needle, and the other 9 stitches on another double pointed needle. I am knitting in the round with a third double pointed needle. After the first 4 rows knitting in the round … it says to turn your work, and I understand that the ears then become flat. Do you first transfer all 18 stitches to one needle … so that you can then purl one side and knit the other while decreasing? And if so … how? A photo at this point (after the four knit rounds) would be great … it’s a bit confusing. (PS – I. Love. This. Sheep.)
Hi Gretchen.
I’m glad you love the sheep!
If I knit up another one, I’ll be sure to take additional photos.
Regarding the ears… I picked up the 18 stitches using 3 needles. In the photo you’ll see I have 9 on one, I think 6 on the second and 3 on the third. After placing a marker, I used a 4th double pointed needle to work in the round. When it was time to then start working flat, I continued to use all 4 double pointed needles at first, working back and forth in kind of a horse-shoe shape. The more rows I worked, the more comfortable it became and then I did eventually transfer the remaining needles down to two needles and then down to one, so that at then end all my stitches were just one one needle and I used a second to work across them.
I hope this helps, but definitely let me know if you have any questions!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Oh what a great idea! I live in Wales, UK and sheep is kinda local mascot so I can’t wait to make one! Just need to think of crochet pattern as I don’t knit that well. And it seems I’m not the only one there 😉
Hi I don’t have the correct length circular needle to do this pattern, mine seem too long to join only 46 stitches so i am wondering if you have a straight knit (not in the round) version of this pattern? I love this pattern and am a bit disappointed that i am unable to do it.
Hi Chris.
Thanks for writing in.
Unfortunately, we only have this one version of that pattern provided here.
Best,
Laura
I have a quick silly question. When making the bobble , after K2tog, when you “return stitch to left needle” toward the end, do you return it “knit wise” or “purl wise?” It may not make a big difference, but I just want to get it right. Thanks!
Hi Angelina,
Thank you for the comment! When you are returning the stitch to the left needle you will slip it purl wise. Generally I always assume that slip stitches are done purl wise unless a pattern specifies otherwise.
If you have anymore questions please feel free to let us know!
Happy Bobbling!
Jake
I think this would make a great hot water bottle holder but it is too big as is. I am going to try it in the smaller version you suggested to Kiran for her baby. It will have to wait a little while, though, as I find I’m having to learn to knit all over again. I used to knit a lot, mostly sweaters, but it stopped being fun, so I gave it up, at least 30 years ago, and recently started again. I’m ‘learning’ far faster than the first time, of course, but I have forgotten so much! Now it’s fun all over again, and this seems like a great thing to make for my second project.
Joan
I have just finished filling the sheep with a home-made pillow in the shape of the sheep and closed the belly. I haven’t started the feet as I cannot picture how it makes a foot on each side of the body. I understand how to pickup the 26 stitches like the picture and also understand knitting in the round for 4 inches and decreasing 1 stitch at the end of each half and the kitchener stitch the two halfs together but I can’t see in my head how from there it makes two feet, one each side of the body.
Hi Sandy.
I’d love to help you figure this out! So there are two feet, total. One towards the front of the body and one towards the back. You mentioned one foot on each side so I’m wondering if maybe you were hoping to make 4 feet? Two towards the front and two towards the back? Let me know and we’ll get this figured out together! Thanks. -Laura
I’m happy with the project, however I didn’t have enough yarn… I ordered Classic Elite Yarn, 87yds and 100gm weight. The exact same as what this pattern called for and I had to order 2 more skeins than called for to be able to finish the sheep. Love the sheep, but not happy about having to buy more yarn than what I expected to…
I love limbs thank you for this pattern I just can’t wait to make my
Lamb.it looks like fun again thank you.
This is adorable, I hope I can make one for my niece!
So adorable! I wish I could knit! Can’t I just buy one;)
great pattern! I added color and feet and made this for a much anticipated adopted infant. Was adorable in result!
I’m almost finished with the pillow but am having trouble picking up the stitches for the feet. I know I already picked up 3 stitches in one stitch for the head, but I can’t seem to figure out how to pick up 3 stitches in one stitch again. I’ve tried googling it, but I haven’t found the answer. Please help as I can’t wait to finish!
Hi Cindy.
I’m glad you wrote in! To pick up 3 stitches in one stitch, pick up and knit one stitch, yarn over, bring the needle back into the same stitch and knit to pick up another stitch. I hope this will have you finishing up the sheep in no time, but please let me know if this isn’t clear or if you have any additional questions!
Thanks.
Laura
Hi,
Would you clarify the size of needles for me, please? For circular needles it provides sizes 11,16 or 24. I was looking into ordering the bamboo needles from your site, but “size” I see only 11, however length is available 16 and 24. So the required size is actually the length? Thanks!
Hello Andra,
You’re correct! #11 is the needle size and 16″ – 24″ refer to the needles’ cable lengths. We’re glad to see you’re interested in our pattern! Happy knitting! -Alyson
After Round 6 when shaping the body, the pattern says to repeat Round 5 and 6 three more times. However, you have been increasing in Rounds 5 and 6, so when you repeat there rounds the numbers you have between markers have changed. How should these extra increase stitches be treated?
Hello Mary!
The increased stitches will be incorporated into the repeat of the bobbles as you go along. While maintaining the border and increases along the edges of the body, the other stitches will be added to the middle of the row in between the markers. This is something that should become clear as you’re doing it. Please don’t hesitate to write in again if you’re still confused! -Alyson
Hello,
Love the sheep, but get stuck once I get to the bobbles. Any chance you can post a video? Tried quite a few times, but the result is far from what’s on the photo 🙁
Thank you,
Kat
Hello Kat!
This definitely can be a tricky technique. What step are you having most trouble with? We don’t have a video for this stitch in the works right now, but I bet with a quick Google search you can find something similar. Please let us know which part you’re having trouble with and we can do our best to help you troubleshoot. Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
Hello – I’ve just finished the sheep’s tail and it looks NOTHING like your picture. Mine is much longer and the knit stitch is on the outside. Your picture shows a much smaller tail and the purl stitch on the outside. What am I doing wrong?? Thank you for help 🙂
Hi Deena.
Oh no! Well let’s see if we can figure this out together.
My tail is in garter stitch, so the texture of the fabric is ridges, kind of similar looking to purl bumps, but a bit different. I have a feeling you saw the circular needles and you decided to join for working in the round and you worked 4 rounds rather than 4 rows and so you have a stockinette tail with all knit stitches on the outside? You don’t need to work in the round for the tail. You work that U-shape in rows!
I think if you make this adjustment your tail will be perfect!
Thanks for writing in. Please let us know if you have any questions.
Laura
I’m confused about the M1l at the start of Row 5. I thought you had to use a M1l ( or r ) between stitches. How can it be done on the first stitch?
And the bobbles start on the right side row, so won’t they “pop” on the wrong side?
Hi, Kathy!
Thank you so much for writing in! Sorry about the delayed response! You can do the M1L + M1R stitch as we have it written, have you checked out our tutorial (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/08/13/make-one-right-m1r-make-one-left-m1l/)?
Regarding your question about the bobbles on the right side row, to make the bobble stitch you are kniting into the next stitch, leaving it on the left needle, [(yarn over, knit 1) into same stitch] two times. Then you turn the work (so that the wrong side is facing you), k5, turn work (right side is facing you), k2tog and return stitch to left needle, slip remaining three stitches of bobble over the k2tog stitch, knit that stitch, returning it to the right needle. So, the bobble will still be pop on the right side. Does that make sense? We’ve also got a great tutorial here (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/03/02/bobble-5-stitch-garter-bobble/) that shows the bobble stitch in action.
If you have further questions, please let us know!
Best,
Kumeko
Hi, could you make the pattern for crochet? … Thanks
Hi Deloris,
Thank you for your message and my apologies for the greatly delayed response. We are so glad to you are interested in the Bobble Sheep! I’m sorry to say that we do not have the resources to convert this pattern for crochet at the moment, but we will definitely keep it in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
Hello
I saw this item in a shop near where I live and lived it. I thought I may find the pattern online. However, I find lately that lots of patterns have US instructions and values rather than. UK . Does anyone know of a translation? I mean in terms of equal wool weight, needle size etc? By the time I do my own translation, it sometimes leaves me devoid of the energy to actually attempt the project!
Hi Carol,
Thanks for writing in! I understand that it can be challenging going from US to UK sizes. I have found a few resources that are helpful for me when going back and forth between patterns written in the UK and the USA.
Here is a chart for determining what gauge of yarn is called by what name: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yarn_weight
Here is a chart for determining needle size: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knitting_needle#Needle_sizes_and_conversions
I hope that this information is helpful!
-Cassy
Thank you for the instruction for this wonderful sheep. I actually decided to learn how to knit just because of it. Love it! The link to the “how to make the bobble” is not working and I can’t get it right from the other instruction. One question; do I start knit on two straight knitting sticks? And when do I start using the round sticks? Thanks, Hanna
Hello, Hanna!
Thank you for writing in! Sorry for the delayed response! You can find the tutorial for the bobble here. You’re knitting the entire body of the sheep using the circular needles. The double pointed needles are for the head and ears.
Please let us know if you have further questions!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Olá, sou do interior, e aprendi tricô com a minha mãe. Gostaria de saber o nome deste ponto, e a receita em português abrasileirado. Kkkkkk, é que sou bem simples, porém faço bem o tricô. Esta ovelinha é um encanto, fiquei apaixonada por ela. Desde já agradeço. Obrigadindo.
Hello, Maria!
Thank you for writing in! Unfortunately, none of us speak Portuguese, sorry!
Best,
Kumeko
Please do you have a video? Thanks!
Hello Filipa,
Thank you for your question. Would you like to see how the bobble stitch is made? We do not have a video tutorial for that but we do have a step by step photo tutorial on our website here. I hope that helps. Please let me know if you have any other questions about the sheep pillow.
Happy knitting,
Allison
Hi,
I recently started this for my nephew and love the project so far. I realized today that I only repeated rounds 5 and 6 twice, not the three times that are called for. I am now on Round 9 and am 8 stitches off of the count. I wanted to know if there is a way that I can rectify this without taking apart rounds 7 and 8. Any help and pointers would be appreciated!
Thanks!
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for your question and our apologies for the delayed response! Rounds 5 and 6 are repeated a total of 4 times; the first time and then 3 additional times. Sadly there is no easy way to make up for those stitches and the length. I would suggest tinking back rows 7 and 8 in order to get the correct stitch count and length. I know that this is not easy given the bobbles but I think it will come out better in the end.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi Laura,
Can I knit this pattern with single pointed needles?
I knit with the needle under my arm and cannot knit on the round.
Thank you
Laura
Hello, Laura!
Thank you so much for writing in! Unfortunately, we only have this pattern written for knitting in the round.
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Do you have the Bobble sheep pillow in a crochet pattern. .love thus but do not know how to knit
Hello, Joan!
Thank you for writing in! Unfortunately, we do not have this pattern available for crochet, sorry!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Well, I purchased the bobble sheep pillow kit… I followed the directions for the free pattern (which should have been included in the kit). Still can’t find the pattern. Very disappointed. Any ideas of suggestions? I am ready to return this kit!
Linda Wegenke.
414-698-5426
linda_wegenke@yahoo.com
Hello, Linda!
Thank you so much for writing in! I am so sorry that you’re disappointed, the pattern for the Bobble Sheep is a free pattern on our site which is why it was not included in the materials kit. You can find the pattern here. . There are just a couple of modifications to the pattern which are:
“For the Main Yarn, we used Gentle Giant on US 17 needles in place of Super Soft Merino on US 11 needles.
For the Contrast Yarn, we used two strands of Flax Down on US 10 needles in place of a single strand of Sport Weight Alpaca on US 3 needles.
We lengthened the legs from 4 to 5 inches.”
Again, I am so sorry that we disappointed you, It should be clearly stated that the pattern is not included in the kit. If you have further questions please let us know!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
I got the yarn for this and am starting this weekend! I just had a baby girl in December so I can’t wait to have it in her nursery:) I’ll make the bigger one for my other daughter who is 8 so they can have a momma and baby. How fun! I love sheep! Purl Soho and all of you are just so lovely and brighten my days with your creativity:)
How many legs do I knit?
Hi Esther,
Thanks for your question! We knit two legs on our bobble sheep, one in the front and one in the back!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Thank you for the pattern! I’m having a hard time understanding Row 5 and was unable to follow your replies to the previous posts about that row too 🙁 . Your video for M1L M1R, you start by k2 first. Should I do that first? I’m not sure where to start if the very first stitch is M1L. Any help would be much appreciated! I’m a beginner at knitting but really love to try this pattern out!
Hello Martha,
You’re welcome for the pattern! It’s so cute. You can certainly M1L without knitting two before it. We did this in the video because it’s easier to show if you do something in the middle of the fabric. Since you are knitting in the round, you can M1L at the beginning of the round. I hope this helps!
Best,
Adam
This is really fabulous!
Does this pattern exist also in Dutch please? I would like to knit it for our son.
Thanks in advance,
Jessie
Hello, Jessie!
Thank you for writing in and thank you for your kind words! Unfortunately, we only have our patterns available in English. Please let us know if you have further questions!
Best,
Kumeko
Hi- question about row 5. I’m working the repeat until 3 stitches before the midline marker, and I wound up with two bobbles right next to each other, then the marker. Is that right?
Hi Mellissa,
Thanks for writing us! You should end up with three stitches before the marker and one stitch is to make the bobble, the next two are to knit and then you M1R before the marker. If you end up with more or less than three stitches before your last bobble, you might have cast on the wrong amount or placed your markers in the wrong positions. Please double count and get back to us! I hope it all works out!
Best,
Adam
I have just finished the sheep’s body, which went very well – great, easy to follow pattern. I’m about to start the head, but noticed that the yarn the pattern calls for has a gauge of 28 stitches=4 inches, on size 3 needles. When I was at purl soho, they gave me the flax down yarn and size 6 needles, for a gauge of 18-22stitches=4 inches. They didn’t mention adjusting the pattern – do you advise I adjust it, or do you think i can follow it as it is written?
Thank you.
Hi Edith,
Thanks for writing us! So glad the body went well. The Super Soft Merino sheep calls for the Blue Sky Alpaca Sport Melange. I am so sorry you were given the wrong yarn. However, Flax Down can substitute the sport melange on a US 3. If you have a US 3, I would make the head and feet in this yarn. Good luck and let us know!
Best,
Adam
Hello, I have a question about the bobbles. For some reason, when I make them there is a hole to the right side of each bobble, and I’m afraid this will let stuffing escape. Do you have any hints?
Hello, Kelly!
Thank you for writing in! I am sorry to hear that you’re getting a hole in your fabric! While there can be a small amount of gapping, there shouldn’t be a large hole. Please make sure that you are keeping your tension tight and even as you knit your first stitch and do the subsequent yarn overs. Also, as you knit into the same stitch for a third time, take it off the left hand needle. I hope this helps! Please keep us updated!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Can I just use a circular needle for the entire body? I am confused when you say to distribute the stitches evenly on 3 needles. Please help
Hi Suzanne,
Thanks for writing in! You could certainly use a 16″ circular needle, but it might be a little tough in the beginning. You’ll be increasing in no time though, so it might be worth it. Have fun!
Best,
Adam
How do you join for working in the round using a circular needle? I am a knitting idiot.
Hi, Suzanne!
Thank you for writing in! This a great question, no need to feel like an idiot! Before you join in the round it’s very important to make sure that all of your stitches are facing the same direction. Then, to join in the round you’ll place the needle with your working yarn goes in your right hand, the other needle in the left. Then just knit into that first stitch on your left hand needle. From here you’ll continue to knit as usual. To make sure that you don’t have a gap between the last stitch of your cast on row and the first stitch of your joined stitch, simply pull your yarn tight after knitting that first join stitch. Please let us know if you have further questions!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Love, love, love the Sheep!
When using a provisional cast on, how do you begin using the new working yarn while joining in the round? Since the working yarn is not anchored to the cast on, how can it be joined?
Thank you so much for the help.
Hi Amy,
Thanks for the kind words. When doing the provisional cast on you will crochet on to the needle with scrap yarn the amount of stitches you need to cast on with the main yarn. Next, start knitting into the beginning of the crochet cast on with the main yarn. You join this yarn as if you are knitting a new skein. Once you have completed a full round with the main yarn you will continue on in the round. In other words, you will not join your crochet cast on in the round, but you will join after your first round knitting with the main yarn.
Best,
Adam
Hi!
I am almost done with the body of the sheep and I am loving challenging myself with this pattern so far. It is my first time making bobbles! I used a different yarn, but the gauge was the same. My piece is much looser than what I see in the pictures of the pattern above. I’m afraid of all of the stuffing falling right out from all over! Any suggestions? I’d rather not rip it all down because this is not the quickest pattern. Thanks!
Hi Valerie,
Thanks for your interest in this pattern. If you are finding the stitches to be loose, you can make a little pillow for the inside of your sheep. We did this for the Gentle Giant version because the stitches are so large. I suggest that you pick a fabric that is close to the color of your sheep and sew a pillow that is the size of the sheep. Leave an opening to stuff the pillow and then whip stitch the opening closed. Before doing the kitchener stitch on the knitted opening, you will insert the pillow to enclose it inside the sheep. I hope this helps you.
Best,
Adam
Hello!
I so love this!! ♡ but i’m terrible at reading patterns.
Is it possible to get this lovely sheep with a video follow along?
Love your work and site ^^
Greetings, Andrea (Holland)
Hi Andrea,
Thanks so much for writing us! Unfortunately we currently do not have the resources to shoot a knit along video, but we will keep your request in mind for future projects. Thanks again!
Best,
Adam
Is there anyone who has converted this AWESOME Bobble Sheep Pillow in Gentle Giant to a crochet pattern? Please say yes!
I “need” it in my life, but I don’t knit.
Did you get a crochet pattern for the knitted bobble sheep ? I only crochet. Love the sheep. If you did would you share it with me?
Appreciate a reply please either way. Thanks
Hi Gwen,
Thank you for your request! We do not currently have a crochet pattern for the Bobble Sheep but we will definitely keep your quest in mind for future projects!
Best,
Cassy
I would also love a crochet pattern for this. If you get the time to make one. This is so cute!
It’s absolutely adorable. I can’t wait to start it this weekend!!Thank you for the gift of free!
I was given the lovely sheep pillow kit.
In the instructions in the 5 round and following rounds, please explain “sm”
Thank you
Susan
Hello Susan,
Thanks for contacting us! “Sm” means slip marker. Hope this helps!
-Adam
hallo,
I like to made the pillow but
can you send me the pattern in dutch??
Hello Jeanette,
Thank you for writing in. Unfortunately we do not have the capability to translate this pattern into Dutch. I suggest you try Google Translate for the parts you don’t understand. It has worked well for my other colleges.
Best,
Adam
Hello!
I so love this!! ♡ but i’m terrible at reading patterns.
Is it possible to get this lovely sheep with a video follow along?
Love your work and site ^^
Is het mogelijk om de Nederlandse uitleg te krijgen, en kan ik dit ook haken ?
Groetjes, Nicole
Hello Nicole,
Thanks so much for writing us! Unfortunately we currently do not have the resources to shoot a knit along video, but we will keep your request in mind for future projects. Thanks again!
Best,
Adam
The pattern says ‘you’ll need US 11, 16 or 24-inch circular needles’. Does that concern the length or the size of the needle?
Hi Aviaaja,
Thank you for writing us! You will use a size 11 needle and you have the option between using a circular needle with at 16″ cord or a 24″ cord. The choice is yours!
All the best,
Adam
Hi. I’ve finished the sheep body. He’s awesome gray tweed. I can’t figure out how to pick up stitches for the head and 3 in 1? I’m stumped. I’ve tried you-tube and I’ve seen some of your helpful videos but I this is beyond me. Also, I’m use to magic loop for knitting in the round. I’ve never tried double point. Can I accomplish the head with this method? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Pat
Hello Pat,
Thank you for contacting us! You can certainly do the sheep head using magic loop. To pick up three stitches you will pick up a stitch three times in the same stitch. If you don’t know how to pick up stitches, please check out our tutorial here. All in all, you should have three stitches of the thin yarn coming out of one stitch of the thick yarn.
All the best!
-Adam
Hello from Argentina! Thank you so much for this perfect pattern. I finished my first bobble sheep pillow and I am ready to start knitting the bigger sisters. If you follow the instructions, the result is a perfect clone of the original.
All the best!
Alicia
bonjour de France
auriez vous les explications en français, car même avec un traducteur c’est compliqué surtout pour l’endroit ou mettre les marqueurs, ex ; faut il les mettre dès le départ lorsqu’on tricote avec les 3 aiguilles, et au 2ème rang faut il tricoter 21 mailles avant d’en mettre un ? merci
Bonjour de New York!
Malheureusement on peut pas traduire nos directions en français à ce moment. Je parle un peu français et je vais essayer de vous aider avec vos questions. Premièrement, il ne faut pas mettre un marqueur au départ du rang en tricotant avec les 3 aiguilles parce que la queue du fil de laine indique le début du rang. Lorsqu’on tricote circulairement, il faut marquer le départ. Au 2ème rang, il vous dit [P21, place a marker that is a different color than the end-of-the-round marker, k2] two times, ce qui veut dire “tricoter 21 à l’envers, placer un marquer d’une couleur différente du départ du rang, tricoter 2 endroit, répéter 2 fois. Voici un website j’ai trouvé pour traduire les termes tricoter en anglais à français.
http://www.tricotin.com/dico.htm#haut
Merci et bonne chance,
Adam
merci pour votre réponse;
pouvez vous m’expliquer : au rang 5 : à trois points avant le marqueur suivant : cela veut il dire qu’il faut faire une nope sur le 1er point puis 2 mailles endroit et 1 augmentation , un marqueur et 2 mailles endroit ?
je vais essayer de le tricoter avec deux aiguilles normales pensez vous que ce soit possible ?
ce modèle est magnifique.
Bonjour Michelle,
Vous avez raison pour rang 5. Pourtant, vous ne pouvez pas tricoter avec deux aiguilles normales parce que ce modèle est tricoté circulairement. Merci pour vos mots gentils!
Merci,
Adam
Hi!
I would love to make this pillow, but the yarn is a little expensive for me. Obviously you would recommend your own yarn, but would you have a suggestion of a cheaper yarn that would work as well? Thank you so much!
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend using Cascade 128 Superwash for the body in color “ecru” and Cascade 220 Superwash Sport for the face and legs. The gauge of the 128 Superwash is different than the Super Soft Merino, so I would go down to a US 9 or US 10. The Superwash Sport is pretty comparable to the Blue Sky Alpaca, so no need to change needle size if you are hitting gauge. Please let me know if you have any more questions!
Best,
Adam
I can’t seem to print the sheep pattern, it’s very tiny and instructions are written over pictures.
Hi Terri,
Sorry this ins’t printing properly! I would try checking your printer settings to make sure you are printing at 100%. You can also try downloading the pattern as a PDF and then printing the PDF. I hope this helps!
Best,
Adam
bonjour, je reviens vers vous pour vous demander un conseil
j’essaye de faire la tête, mais j’ai un problème avec les marqueurs, à la répétition des rangs 1 et 2(et quand j’en ai fait 3 ) les 2ème et 3ème marqueurs sont au même niveau ! donc ensuite je n’ai plus que les 1er et 3eme avant ce lui du début. pouvez vous m’expliquer .SVP; un grand merci d’avance.
Bonjour!
J’espère que je peux améliorer la situation! Il a l’air que vous avez mis incorrectement vos marqueurs. Au “set up round” où vous placez les marqueurs, il faut tricoter 16 puis [placer un marqueur d’une couleur différente, tricoter 30 mailles]. Répétez l’instruction dans les crochets deux fois et après la dernière répétition, placer un marquer. Ça veut dire que vous aurez un marqueur pour le départ et 3 marqueurs d’une couleur différente. Je ne sais pas ce que vous voulez dire pour “les marqueur au même niveau” mais j’espère que j’ai résolu l’énigme!
-Adam
bonjour, voilà j’ai enfin réussi cette sacrée tête, en fait je mettais les marqueurs au 16èrg puis à 30, 16rg et 30 alors que c’était à 16,30,30,16
En tout cas je félicite très sincèrement la personne qui a fait ce modèle, et je vous remercie encore pour vos renseignements. cordialement.
Hi. Thank you for this gorgeous pattern.
I’m going to start this project but I think making bobbles only one side. I understood knitting in the round and front and back side are devided by K2 parts.
My question is which part should I make bobbles?
Should I make bobbles first part which is before the first K2 or after?
I just concern if I did wrong, it’s gonna be flat side will be front and bobble side back.
Any advice for this version is appreciated.
Hi Mi,
Thanks for the nice comment! If you do bobbles on one side and not the other, there will be no wrong side. You can turn the sheep around for the bobble side to show or back again for the knit side to show. I hope I’ve understood your question!
Best,
Adam
Just completed bobble sheep pillow. Fantastic. Clear instructions and it turned out great. Love it. Thank you.
Hi Linda,
I’m so happy! Congrats!
-Adam
Thanks for the lovely pattern! I’m smitten with the sheep! I usually crochet, so I’m not familiar the terms, but just had to knit this. If the patterns says sm(slip marker) do I have to slip it to the next or previous stitch? Toward the knitted stitches or away? Please help!!
Hello Dina,
So glad that you love the pattern! It’s really cute knitted up! SM means that you simply slip the marker from the left-hand needle to the right-hand needle. There is no need to hook the marker to the stitch. The marker is just an indicator for you to increase or decrease. Let me know if you have any other questions!
Best,
Adam
Just starting
I know all pattern maker have different ways but
On round 2: it states [p21 place marker, k2] two times
If I only knit two toghter two time I still have 21 stitches left…
Then It jumps to round 3: knit?
Hi there,
Thanks for your question! The directions inside the brackets are supposed to be completed twice. In other words, you will p21, place marker, k2, p21, place marker, k2. I hope this helps!
Best,
Adam
Thanks so much for sharing this pattern! The grand babies are fighting over the one I just finished…. I’ll have to knit a flock!!
Hi, I’m excited to be starting this lovely pattern now wool and needles have arrived.
One question please, about the pattern – where it says ‘repeat Rounds 5 and 6 three times’, then it talks about starting Round 7. Should Round 7 be Round 13 as repeating Rounds 5 and 6 would be result in Rounds 7-12 being completed?
Great pattern by the way!
Hi Su! Thanks for your question and comments! Round 7 would technically by the 13th row in the pattern, but as it establishes a new step in the making of the Bobble Sheep, we treat it as its own round, regardless of where it falls in the row count. So yes, repeat rounds 5 and 6 three times and then move on to Round 7 as written. Thanks and happy knitting!
Keith
I really love this pattern! The only problem is, I am a crocheter & not a knitter. There is a bobble stitch in crochet, so is there anyone that could convert this to a crochet pattern?
Hi Michelle,
Thank you for your request! We do not currently have a crochet pattern for the Bobble Sheep but we will definitely keep your quest in mind for future projects!
Best,
Cassy
Great pattern but cant find any instruction s for M1l or M1r not sure if this is increase or decrease. Cant wait to get started.
Hi Ludmilla,
Thanks for writing in! M1r and M1l are both increases and we do have a tutorial that can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/08/13/make-one-right-m1r-make-one-left-m1l/
I hope that this helps and best of luck on this cute sheep!
Cassy
thank you for your help
I would like to knit a smaller bobble sheep. Is the initial cast on number a multiple of 4 plus two? I would rather use the bulky yarn and start with a smaller number of stitches than using finer yarn.
Thank you
Hi Kathy,
Yes, I think that in all cases if you cast on four plus two it will work out. For example if you cast on 34, you will have 15 bobbles all around plus four knit stitches for the front and back. Good luck and let us know how it goes!
-Adam
I really really like this sheep pillow! The only problem is that I can’t knit very well. That is why I decided to crochet this sheep on the basis of this pattern. It turned out just as great as this knitting pattern. Thank you!
if you have the crochet pattern worked out can you share?
Hi Danielle,
Thanks for writing in! We unfortunately don’t have a crochet pattern for this sheep but will keep your request in mind for the future.
-Adam
Hi… I m working on the lovely sheep but i m troubleling with the head.
92 stichtes deviding in 16 sm 30 twice. But isnt it 16 sm 30 sm 30 sm 16 stiches? The back of the head must be simular though?
Please help me out. Thank
Friendly regards
Yvonne
Hi Yvonne,
Thanks for writing us! We are both correct here. I think that you are just getting tripped up on the wording, but you’ve got it right. From the beginning of round you will k16, pm, k30, pm, k30, pm, k16. At the top of the head you should have two sections of 30 stitches flanked by two sections of 16 stitches that lie on either side of the beginning of round marker. I hope this makes sense!
Best of luck!
-Adam
Yes, now i get it and will try again. Thank you Adam.
Hi, so cute!! Do you sell the sheep already made? thanks!
Hi Kelly,
I am sorry! We do not sell the finished item but rather the materials to make it yourself. We do have a list of freelancers who occasionally take on projects like this. If you would like, you can send you request to store@purlsoho.com and we can contact them and see if they have any availability!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi,
I’m writing you from Germany and I would like to knit this beautiful sheep !
The wool I can get here is being offered in grams and in length.
(ex. 50 g = 75 m = needle similar US 8).
To calculate the consumption of the wool by using US 11 with a double wool thread from the German yarn it will be very helpful to know the running length of a skein of your Super Soft Merino !
Thank you very much for an answer !
Regards
Hella
Hi Hella,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! Our Super Soft Merino comes in 87 yard skeins. For details on all of our yarns, please click on the Product Details on the product page. Here you will find the yardage, recommended needle sizes and more.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi….Love the bobble sheep. On the head, why is the purl surface on the outside and the knit surface on the inside of the head? What am I doing wrong? Thanks!
Hi Judy,
Thanks for writing in. Your knits should be on the outside of the work for the head. I think that you are mistakenly knitting counter clockwise. I’m afraid that you’ll have to start the head over again from right after the pick up round. Make sure you are knitting clockwise with your working yarn coming from your right hand. Let me know how it goes!
All the best,
Adam
Oh no! I did the same thing! I’m half way done with the head with most of the markers on top and purl stitches on the outside…is there anyway to salvage this or do I need to start over?
P.S. Up until this present panic-moment I’ve loved this pattern, along with so many other purl soho patterns I’ve made in the past. Thanks so much for sharing such gorgeous work!
Hi Lissa,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! I am sorry to hear that you are having difficulties. If the purl stitches are appearing on the outside, you could continue and use the purl surface as the outside or pull it out and start the head again. I will say that I have never regretted pulling out a mistake and fixing it. Though I may put the project in a time out for a moment, I am always happy to have things done in the way that I like. That said, I do think that the purl surface could be nice as well.
Best,
Cassy
I just finished your Bobble Sheep in time for xmas. Loved the result and the design and I know grandpa will be pleased with his gift. Thank you so much for this.
The only change I made was the actual bobble. Instead of knitting 5 times into the same stitch, I used a crochet hook and made 5 doubles into the same stitch, before knitting it back into the pattern. It certainly made the bobbles pop! Though I ended up using almost an extra skein of yarn.
Cheers and thanks again for this lovely recipe.
Is there any other yarn I can use, I’m allergic to wool.
thanks, debbie
Hi Debbie,
Thanks for writing in! What a bummer! We do not carry any non-wool yarn that is the same gauge as our Super Soft. However, you could try using Blue Sky Worsted Cotton held doubled. You will need to knit a gauge swatch and may need to go down a needle size. For the head, I would suggest Blue Sky Skinny Cotton. You will also hold this doubled as instructed in the original pattern. You may also need to go down a needle size.
I hope that this helps and happy non-wool knitting!
Cassy
I have made the large sheep and LOVE it! My grandchildren call it “bobbles” and they both want one of their own. It was a lot of work, so I would like to make a pair of much smaller ones for each of them. Is there a pattern for a smaller sheep (maybe one third the size)? And while I’m at it, does that wonderfully soft yarn come in other colors???
Thank you so much (on behalf of my grandchildren!)
DBC
Hi there!
This made my night! So glad they love the sheep and that they’ve named it. You can simply choose a thinner yarn and follow the same pattern to make the sheep smaller. I would choose a worsted weight or DK weight and make the pattern exactly as before. It’s still the same amount of work, just less stress on your hands with that bulky yarn. Best of luck!
-Adam
Hi, is it possible to use circular needles all the way instead of double pointed ones? I have never used those before and not comfortable to try.
Hi Eva,
Thanks for the question! I think it’s possible to use the circular needle all the way through. It might be a little bit of a struggle in the beginning but once you cast on and start increasing you’ll be comfortable on the circular in no time. Thanks!
-Adam
Hi Adam, many thanks for your reply, I did knit the whole body with circular needles, but now I am really struggling to knit the head and have started 3 times already. I am using the “magic Loop” method to knit the head but it just doesn’t seem to be right I have knitted 16 stitches as the pattern dictates p.m. then 30 sts, that’s half of the head, then the other half of the head 16 sts and pm, then 30 again. I think the 2 x 16 st should be parallel to each other therefore it should be :
16 sts marker 30 sts, then 30sts marker and 16 sts. Am I right ? I must be doing something wrong as all the increases are happening on one side of the head when it should be same number of stitches. Please help.
regards
Eva
Hi Eva,
Thanks for writing back. From the beginning of the round your knitting should look as follows: 16 st, marker, 30 st, marker, 30 st, marker, 16 st, end of round. This way there are 16 stitches flanking the beginning of round with 60 stitches total in the center of the round. I hope this helps you visualize! If you are still having trouble, feel free to write back in!
-Adam
Hi there,
I am the new knitter and I got stuck on row 5. After making the 5th bobble, I knit 2 and make 1 right and then I have 3 stitches before the marker. Am I right? If this is right, what should I do with 3 stitches before the marker as I don’t understand how to the following:
3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times.
Thank you!
Hi Queenie,
Thanks for writing in! When you get to three stitches before the marker, as you have, the pattern states that you’ll need to MB, k2, M1R before slipping the marker. So, in short, you are right to have three stitches before the marker. Let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
I’m sure that i am missing something simple, but in round 5 and 6 it says you are increasing by 4 stitches and i only see where you are increasing 3 stitches per round. Help , I’ve ripped it out and started again 3 times.
Hi Tricia,
Thanks for writing in! I find that it is helpful to write out the whole row in long form when I am having troubles. For row 5, I have bolded the increases and it would read:
M1L, k2, *make bobble (MB), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2, M1L, k2, *make bobble (MB), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2. [4 stitches increased]
For row 6, I have bolded the increases and it would read:
M1L, purl to next marker, m1R, sm, k2, M1L, purl to next marker, m1R, sm, k2.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Hello! Thanks for the great pattern. I started and knitted up to row 9 or 10, but the bobbles don’t work out as well as they look on your pictures. There are more like asymmetric cubes. Do you have any idea how I could improve my bobbles? It is so much work and I can’t be bothered to knit on, if my bobbles don’t turn out perfectly! Thanks for your help! Silke
Dear Silke,
Thank you for your question! I am not quite sure what the issue could be. I would recommend checking out our tutorial for the bobbles which can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/03/02/bobble-5-stitch-garter-bobble/
If you are still having difficulty, please feel free to send in some pictures illustrating your issue and we can try to help!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Do you stuff the face at all? I am just finishing up the face- about to stitch together and wondering if I should put a little stuffing in…. also for the ears, legs..etc?
Hi Shannon,
Thanks for writing in! For our versions of this fun sheep, we only stuffed the body. However, we have seen versions with stuffed faces and they are quite darling as well. I’d suggest checking out the Purl Soho hastag (#purlsoho) on instagram for some fun photos of Bobble Sheep!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
I ma trying to make the ears but I don’t know where to pick up the stitches. What exactly do you mean by “next two stitches above it”? And when you say “rotate the sheep ” which way is it? Thank you!
Hi Laurence,
Thanks for writing in! The first stitch you pick up is four stitches down from the top of the last stitch picked up on the head. You’ll pick up three stitches in this stitch and then repeat this twice more, moving upward. Now you have nine stitches on the needle. When you turn the sheep, you’ll turn clockwise and pick up nine stitches parallel to the stitches you just picked up. From here on out you’ll be knitting in the round for a few rounds. I hope this clears things up!
-Adam
Still very confused where to start these ears. Need a better picture or instructions worded a different way
Hi Brenda,
Thanks for writing back! At present, we have only the images available above. I find it really helpful to use removable stitch markers to mark out where you will be picking up for the ears. This gives you the ability to work things out before you pick up stitches as well be able to visualize just exactly what you will be doing.
Best,
Cassy
What does “ms” mean? I don’t see that definition. Thanks!
Love this project!
Hi Minka,
Thanks for the question. Do you mean “MB”? If so, that means “make bobble”. Let me know…
-Adam
Is there someone from a german speaking country who can help me with the description?
Thank you very much
Hi Susi,
Nobody at the shop speaks German, but if you ask me a question, I think I’ll be able to answer.
Best,
Adam
Hi im trying to start this pattern. In the begining, could i cast on using the long tail method instead of the provisional cast on method? Thank you 🙂
Hi Caity,
Thanks for writing in! For this pattern, we use a provisional cast on so that there is a clean seem on the bottom of the sheep. You can certainly use an alternate cast on but you will need to sew up the bottom instead of kitchenering the stitches at the end. This might also present some challenges when you are picking up stitches for the legs. So long as you leave enough space to pick up stitches on either side of the seam you should be good!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Thank you for messaging back. I had started with the wrong size wool to begin with. Now that i have the right size of wool, it worked better. Thank you 🙂
Hi….I’ve been waiting for your help regarding PICKING UP 3 STITCHES in ONE STITCH to create the ear on the Bobble Sheep Head. I’ve researched everywhere and just called our local knitting shop. Nobody has an answer! You responded to someone else with a link to a tutorial on picking up stitches but that’s not the problem….it’s how are you ABLE to actually create 3 clean stitches with one piece of yarn out of one stitch….I’m truly baffled. Please help! I’m a desperado…. 🙂 Thanks so much! Judy
Hi Judy,
Thanks for writing in. To pick up three stitches in one stitch you will pick up one stitch, yarn over needle, and then pick up another stitch in the same stitch. You will have a yarn over flanked by two picked up stitches on your double pointed needle — these are your three stitches picked up from one stitch. Please let me know if this is clear or not. I’d be glad to help you with any of your questions.
-Adam
Thank you Adam! That makes sense! I shall proceed! I think I can….I think I can….
Hi there!
thank you for designing this lovely pattern!
I made 9 sheep og these for Christmas, and my receivers are thrilled and happy for the White, Grey and Brown cuddly cozy bobblepillows….
Thanks for sharing the knitting-pattern!
I am very thankful!
best
Hillevi from Norway
I made 9 sheep OF these*
I do not knit with circular needles. Can I do this pattern with straight needles?
Hi Renee,
This pattern is knit in the round so you can’t follow the directions for in the round. Sorry about that!
-Adam
The first direction in row 5 asks for M1L, how do you manage that in the first stitch? It seems from all instructions that you need a stitch to the left and right in order to make this increase – in order to have the webbing. The only thing I can think to do is to borrow the last stitch from the previous row, move it to the row I am starting and use that webbing. Somehow this seems wrong???
Thanks for some help,
Monica
Hi Monica,
Thanks for the question. You can M1L on the first stitch in the round because M1L uses the bar in between the stitches and not the actual stitch on the needle. This means that you’ll take the bar between the end of round stitch and beginning of round stitch. This is only possible at the beginning of a round and not a row. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Yes thank you. That seemed to be the only way.
Monica
I love this pattern, I am on my third attempt though as I think I must be doing something wrong at row15. When I work the section of round 15-18 I end up with my bobbles out of line with the previous bobbles. I have counted my stitches and have 94 but the bobbles aren’t lining up for me. I have read through the comments and seem to be the only one who has this problem, any ideas of how I am messing up?!?
Hi Lyn,
Thanks for writing in! I am not sure what could be going wrong as they should line up correctly. My suggestion would be to place stitch markers between each repeat to make sure that you are lining them up correctly. We’d be happy to take a look at a photo if you would like. Please send the image to store@purlsoho.com.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Please help I’m going insane I am on the first bobble row, I have m1l, k2, bobble, k3 and done the five bobbles, the instructions say repeat till three stitches to the marker once I have done my fifth bobble I’m constantly getting 4 stitches. I have ripped this out 9 times taken the increase out recounted the previous row and totally restarted the project twise. But it’s always 4 stitches what am I doing wrong my previous row counts always right it’s this first bit that’s wrong. Please help on desperate to make this sheep
Hi Eloise,
Thanks for writing in! I am sorry to hear that you are having difficulties. I think that I may know what is going on and I find it helpful to write things out in these situations. Round 5 reads: [M1L, k2, *make bobble (MB, see Notes), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches increased]. So before the first marker you will M1L, K2, MB, K3, MB, K3, MB, K3, MB, K3, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2. Then you will M1L, K2, MB, K3, MB, K3, MB, K3, MB, K3, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2, which will bring you to the end of the row.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Would it be too much to ask to video this pattern…
Hi Delora,
Thanks so much for writing us! Unfortunately we currently do not have the resources to shoot a knit along video, but we will keep your request in mind for future projects. Thanks again!
Best,
Cassy
bonjour’ je suis française et ne parle pas anglais ‘ j adore ces moutons , mes petits enfants aussi et ils aimeraient que je leurs tricote, connaissez vous quelqu un qui puisse me traduire ces explications
encore félicitations pour votre travail , que je suis depuis la France bonne journée
cordial
Bonjour,
Malheureusement nous n’avons pas les resources de traduire nos modèles mais peut-être à l’avenir. Merci!
-Adam
Hi, how are you.
I am having a little bit of difficulties to start the sheep.
In what way do i have to distribute the stitches in the three double pointed needles? (how many stitches on each needle?), and where do i have to put the mark?.
Then in “Round 2” – what do i have to do, i don´t undrestand what does it means “P21” (I have to put a mark on stitch 21?) and i have to repeat this two times?
Also in “Round 4” – what does it means “purl to next marker” and “slip marker”.
I would appreciate very much if you can help me, i really want to do the bobble sheep pillow.
THANKS 🙂
Hi Melany,
Thanks for writing us. It doesn’t matter how you distribute your stitches on your double points, just as long as you have your beginning of round marker where you joined in the round. I suggest dividing your stitches up as evenly as possible. In round 2 “P21” means “purl 21” stitches. In this round you will purl 21 stitches, place a different color marker than your beginning of round marker and then knit 2. Repeat this sequence once more for a total of two repeated across the round. In round four purl to next marker means that you will purl until you reach the marker. Slip marker means that you will slip the marker from the left needle to the right needle. Hope all this helps!
-Adam
Hi Adam, thanks so much for answer me, I have already do it and its perfect.
Now I am having some trouble with “round 5″.
Finishing round 4 I have: 21 stiches – a marker – 23 stiches – a marker – 2 stiches – and the end of the round marker.
So I start round five like this: m1k – k2 – sm – b – k3 – b – k3 – b – k3 –
So, i start with the side that had 25 stiches before the marker, is that ok..?
Like i was saying, i start “round 5” like this: m1l – k2 – sm – b – k3 – b – k3 – b – k3 – b -k3 – b- k3, until this point i have 3 stitches before the second marker, so then with this three points i made b – k2 and then m1r and slipp the second marker. I made all of these with 25 stitches, so by now i only have 21 stitches left and i think there are not enough stitches to do all that again. I don´t know if for the second time (after the middle marker) i don´t have to do all of the instructions again, or if i am doing something wrong. Hope you can help me again. THANKS 🙂
Hi Melany,
Thank you for writing back. Your stitch distribution from the beginning of round marker should be as follows: 21 stitches, marker, 23 stitches, marker, 2 stitches. This equals a total of 46 stitches. Round five should be worked as follows: M1L, K2, *MB, K3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches. It is important. The way you described your round 5 knitting is correct except you will not slip a marker after knitting 2 stitches. Your beginning of round marker is located at the beginning of your 21 stitch section. I hope this was clear!
-Adam
I just did the provisional casting on and transferred stitches to the three needles but I have no idea where to put the markers or why to do that. Can you help me?
Hi Dottie,
Thanks for writing us! Your first marker goes on your right-hand needle just before joining in the round. This is your beginning of round marker. The rest of the markers are placed as the pattern tells you to. If you knit along with the instructions, you’ll be told exactly when and where to place markers. Let us know how it goes!
-Adam
I think I finally have it, but find the pattern a tiny bit misleading: after MB making the bobble, the k3 INCLUDES the final bobble stitch, correct? After slipping the 3 stitches over, knitting into that stitch is the first of the k3? Thanks!
Hi Paula,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help clarify. The k3 does not include the final stitch of the bobble. When completing the bobble, you will move the final stitch to the right hand needle and then knit the next 3 stitches. For example, when you begin round 5, you will have 46 stitches.
Round 5 reads: [M1L, k2, *make bobble (MB, see Notes), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches increased]
So in the first section, you will be working over 23 stitches, adding 2. The section that you repeat (MB, k3) is worked 4 times over 16 stitches. You will work the MB and then knit the next 3 stitches and then repeat, using up the 16 stitches and then continuing on to the MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
I figured it out, the instructions for the MB are misleading I think. I was having the same problem, but it’s because my bobbles were taking two stitches. In the MB notes it makes it seem like you are knitting into one stitch, yarning over and then knitting into a second stitch and yarning over. But You’re really only supposed to do it into one stitch. Excited to start the project now that I got that confusion out of the way! Seems like a fun one!
I’ m also confused between round 4 and 5…pattern says cast on 46 stitches, round 2 says place marker at 21 stitches….shouldn’t it read at 23? My stitches are not working out and I’m struggling. I’m not a beginner but can’t figure out what I’m missing otherwise.
Hi Carolann,
Great question! For round 2, the directions read: [P21, place a marker that is a different color than the end-of-the-round marker, k2] two times. This will give you a result of:BOR/EOR marker (beginning of round marker/end of round marker), purl 21 stitches, marker, knit 2 stitches, purl 21 stitches, marker, knit 2 stitches.
The instructions for the rounds following this one will include reference to the markers as well. For round 4, the directions read: [Purl to next marker, slip marker (sm), k2] two times. This will give you a result of BOR/EOR marker, purl 21 stitches, slip marker, knit 2 stitches, purl 21 stitches, slip marker, knit 2 stitches. The sets of knitting 2 stitches will result in the back and front seems of this little sheep. This also means that the BOR/EOR marker does not mark the middle front of the sheep but rather 1 stitch over from the middle.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi Adam,
I am having trouble understanding what to do after 4 rounds are knit for the right ear. I have two needles with 9 stitches each and am confused about the instruction “you will no longer knit in the round, but back and forth in rows, turning the work at the end of each row.” Am I knitting each side separately and then seaming the edge all the way around? Thank you for your help.
Susan Roth
Hello Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! When you get to this section you will want to transfer all of your stitches to a circular needle or straight needles and knit the rest of the ear flat – turning your work for each row.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Enjoying this project immensely. At the point of grafting the sheep’s head. I feel that the contrasting yarn that was sent with your kit does not have the texture or stability to “hold up” to the form of a sheep’s head. I feel once I close it, it will form a grey puddle. Do you recommend lightly stuffing this portion? Anyone else having the same result? I’m an accomplished knitter and have followed the directions implicitly.
Hello Rhonda,
Thanks for writing us! I’m so happy you are enjoying this fun project. The shaping of the head will create enough stability to keep its head up and out. It will be on the floppier side of things, but will maintain its structure. I think you will be happy with the result, but let me know if it does end up looking like a puddle and we can try and further problem solve.
I hope this is helpful!
-Marilla
Hi. I’m just finishing up this project as a gift for my three year old. He is psyched!! I just wanted to confirm though – are we only making two legs not four? Has anyone adjusted the pattern for four? Thanks!
Hello Jessica,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct- this pattern is for two legs. I think the two legs do a nice job of capturing the silhouette of the sheep. Aesthetically, I wonder if four legs might look a tad bunched up. Especially if you did them right next together. I would maybe experiment with staggering them out. I hope this makes sense. Let me know if you have any further questions!
Best,
Marilla
I picked up the 92 stitches for the head, starting at the bottom (the neck) and working up the left side first and then down the right. I’m assuming the pattern is referring to left and right when you’re looking at the sheep, not the sheep’s left and right? The placement of the markers stumps me, though – one ends up right at the top of the head? They all seem very askew. Any words of wisdom as to where I’m going wrong? Thank you!
Oh! Got it! I was reading it as k16, pm, k30, pm, twice. The k16 isn’t repeated.
Would this be appropriate for a beginner? I am a super-quick learner and am not afraid of challenges to start off…
Hi Connie,
Thanks for writing in! There are some more advanced techniques in this lovely little sheep! The Craft Yarn Council would put this somewhere between an intermediate and advanced pattern based on the techniques used. That said, if you are up for a challenge, you can certainly give it a go. I would suggest looking through the pattern and knitting some swatches that utilize the techniques (making bobbles, picking up stitches, k3tog, sk2p, provisional cast on, kitchener stitch as well as increasing and decreasing) and then decide if you are comfortable enough with them to give it a go!
Best,
Cassy
I purchased the stuffing you recommend with the pattern. How much of this stuffing do you stuff into the sheep? Love the pattern!
Hi Dawn,
Thanks for writing in! You can add as much or as little stuffing as you like. It really depends on how taut or fluffy you would like your sweet sheep. I usually stuff until I like the feel and then add just a touch more to account for it compacting over time. Any way you decide, the little sheep will be quite sweet!
Best,
Cassy
I’d like to make the pillow smaller from head to tail. Am I right in thinking that I just won’t increase as often and will start the decrease earlier? Any suggestions?
Hello Mary,
Thank you for reaching out! You might want to consider casting on less stitches to begin with, because if you do reduce the amount of increases and decreases it will change the overall shape of the sheep as well as making it smaller. It will also be important to look at the pattern and consider where the bobbles are lining up. I hope this helps!
Happy Knitting,
Marilla
Hello !
I cannot figure out whether the pattern (and yardage) is for the bobble sheep or the Giant bobble sheep.
Maybe use the same pattern with smaller gauge and needles ?
Getting the recommended yarn for most projects here in France is very difficult… only on the internet, and it’s pretty hard to chose colors by only swaps on the computer…(well, the sheep is white or black, that should be pretty easy), and as it takes weeks to receive orders and cost the equivalent of 2 or three balls…. our best choice is to find an equivalent yarn .
I love your site, your patterns, and your yarns and fabrics just look beautiful.
Thank you for your attention , your answer, and just for being there for us knitters
Hi Francoise,
Thank you for writing in and for your kind words! The pattern above is used for both versions of the Bobble Sheep. The yarn, needle sizes and gauge listed above are for the smaller version and the yarn, needle sizes and gauge for the larger version can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2016/02/29/bobble-sheep-pillow-in-gentle-giant/
You will want to look for yarns that knit at similar gauges depending on which size you would like to make and use the corresponding needles listed for that size.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Are the instructions for the tail correct? Looks odd. Looks like there are too many rows. Does tail stay open? The tail looks more round in photos.
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing in! The instructions for the tail are correct. The tail on this sweet little sheep is open and shaped a bit like a half dome that is open on the bottom. You can certainly sew it up once you are done if you prefer the look of a closed tail! Either way, I think that the sheep will look great!
Best,
Cassy
If I’m at round 5 I only see a 3 stitch increase – not a 4 stitch increase. What am I missing?
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for reaching out! We are always happy to help! I find that it helps to write out the whole of the line from time to time. I am also going to bold the increases to make them stand out!
Round 5 reads: [M1L, k2, *MB k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches increased]
Round 5 expanded reads: M1L, k2, MB, k3, MB, k3, MB, k3, MB, k3, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2, M1L, k2, MB, k3, MB, k3, MB, k3, MB, k3, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2.
I hope that this helps clear things up and please do not hesitate to reach out again!
Happy knitting,
Cassy
I was wondering can this be made on stright needles.?
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for writing in! This pattern is written to knit in the round. We are unable to rewrite it to knit flat at this juncture. We realize that for some of our customers that this presents a challenge but we urge you to give it a try! Once you get the hang of it, you may find that you never use straight needles again, even for projects without so many stitches. Circular needles are just easier to keep track of (no losing one in the cushions of your couch!), and they never poke the person sitting next to you!
Best,
Cassy
I am trying to knit the right ear and am stuck after the 4 knitted rounds.How do I “turn the work” and knit rows? I have 9 stiches each on two parallel dpns. What next?
It’s been an adventure knitting this sheep but I managed to get the body and head right…not to be stumped by the ears. Thanks Connie
Hi Connie,
Thanks for writing in! At this point in the pattern, you will go from knitting in the round to knitting straight! Instead on continuing on in the same direction that you have been knitting, you will turn the work so that the inside is facing you and continue working back across the stitches that you just completed!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I crocheted it!
Having to re-start many times I’m tempted to crochet it! Bobble are easier and look better crocheted I think.
How did you do it?
I am having a terrible time picking up three stiches from one stitch. ( Cant find any online tutorials which address three stitches) I love your tutorials and really really wish you would make one for how to pick up the stitches on my Bobble Sheep.
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in! I am sorry to hear that you have difficulties! While we do have a tutorial for picking up stitches, we do not have one for picking up 3 in one. That said, you will start with the same principal listed in the tutorial. My favorite way to pick up 3 stitches into one is to knit into the front, the back and the front of the same stitch, creating 3 stitches from 1 stitch. We do have a tutorial for knitting in the front and back of a stitch (kfb) and for this technique, you will want to just dip into the stitch one more time from the front!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi, how are you, hope you’re doing fine.
I am having a little trouble with the head of the sheep.
In round 1 (Round 1: K1, m1L, knit to first marker, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, knit to last stitch, m1R, k1. [2 stitches decreased]), at the end, when it says “knit to last stitch, m1R, k1” I don’t know if I have to knit 15 stitches then m1R and k1 in the last stitch (16), or I have to kint all the 16 stitches and then m1R and k1 at the beginning of the first 16 stitches.
I have do it with the example number two and it doesn’t looks like the photo at all.
Hope I have explained it well so you understand my problem.
Best wishes, Melany.
Hi Melany,
I think I can help! Your first explanation (knit 15 stitches, m1R, knit last stitch) is correct. Just in case, since you wrote “m1r and K1 in the last stitch,” I want to make sure you are using the correct increase. This pattern uses the Make 1 Right and Make 1 Left increases which are worked in between stitches and do not use up a stitch from the stitch count. It sounds like you might be using a Knit Front and Back increase which would use up your last stitch before you get to the final K1 in the pattern.
I hope that helps! Let us know if you have any other questions!
Julianna
Hi Julianna, thanks for answer me. I have done the head and it’s perfect.:) But now I am having a little problems with the ears. I have done the first “4 rounds”, but I don’t understand very much the next part.
I don’t know if in “Row 1”
– I have to purl the first 9 stitches (the ones that are inside the ear) back and forth, turning the work.
– Or if “Row 1” refers to purl all the 18 stitches back and forth, also turning the work. Or if it refers that back (are the first 9 stitches – inside the ear) and forth the other 9 stitches – outside the ear)
So in conclusion, Ii´m a little confused about how many stitches I have to knit in each row and in what way.
I have try all the possibilities but it always appears the purl side outside the ear. I don’t know if that ok.
Hope I have explained it well, thanks for always answer my doubts.
Best regards. 🙂
Hi Melany,
I’m so glad the head of the sheep worked out! For this part of the ear, you will be working back and forth across all the stitches, so after knitting your fourth round, to begin Row 1, you will turn and purl across all 18 stitches, and for Row 2, you will again turn and knit across all 18 stitches. If you are ending up with purls on the outside of the ear, I think the problem might be that you are not turning to the wrong side (or inside) of the ear when beginning Row 1.
You will probably have to keep your stitches divided on several double pointed needles at first because the base of the ear is such a small tube, but once you have a few rows done you should be able to put all 18 stitches on one needle to work back and forth, which will make this feel a little less confusing! I hope that clears everything up and the rest of the sheep is smooth sailing, but if not please let us know!
Best,
Julianna
Hi,
I have a question about row 5. I understand the directions for the most part, up to where it tells you to repeat whats within the brackets [ ] two times. Am I supposed to be changing where my markers are? Like, are they moving throughout the piece? When I do the first round, I slip my marker and then k2, but then when I get towards the end, I don’t have three stitches left, I have 5…so I MB, K2, M1R and then K2. I have the right amount of stitches (50) and my first place marker is still at the beginning, I just don’t know if I am doing it correctly or if I have already made a mistake in the pattern. Thanks for the help!
Hello Morgan,
Thank you for reaching out- I hope I can help! Your markers will stay in the same place for row 5, though you will be increasing within them.
When you begin row 5 your row setup should be; 21sts, Marker, 23sts, Marker, 2sts, end of round Marker. This means you will have 23 sts between each unique marker, but 21 sts before your first marker when starting your row.
This means that that row 5 step by step would be: [M1L, k2, (make bobble, k3) 4 times, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2,] two times.
I hope this helps and let us know if you are still coming across any issues
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello!! I’m having trouble figuring out where my head and tail Are! I’m assuming the open part where you have to graft is the bottom (duhlol) but when I orient it I can’t figure out the ends. Help
Hello Katie,
Thank you for reaching out and congratulations on being almost done with your sheep! This part can be tricky- you are not alone in being confused by it. The Bottom of the sheep is where you did you provisional cast on so the sheep is knit bottom up. If you turn the sheep so that you are facing the side of the sheep’s body and then pretend the body makes up a horizontally oval shaped clock… The head goes where 9:30 to 11:30 would be. When making the body, this edge had shaping, it’s that slopped in portion of the oval where the head goes.
I hope this helps clear it up, if I can clarify any of this let us know!
Happy sheeping,
Marilla
I love this. Please think about creating a crocheted version?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for reaching out! We do not currently have a crochet pattern for the Bobble Sheep but we will definitely keep your request in mind for future projects!
Best,
Julianna
Hi there… I don’t have the patience to review all of the comments… but is there a pattern for a baby bobble sheep?
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! The easiest way to size down the Bobble Sheep is to use a lighter weight yarn and smaller needles and follow the pattern as written. For a smaller sheep, I would suggest trying Worsted Twist on a US 7 needle, or for an even bittier sheep, Cashmere Merino Bloom on a US 5! For either yarn, Line Weight on US 1 double pointed needles for the head and feet would work well.
Best of luck and let us know how your baby sheep turns out!
Julianna
Bonjour, je voudrais savoir si vous avez les explications en français et c’est de quel niveau ? Mon Niveau est de débutant à intermédiaire. Merci pour la réponse
Hi Yana,
Merci pour votre message! Malheureusement, nos patrons sont toujours en anglais!
Merci,
Cassy
On the set up for the head – it says 16 place market (then knit 30 is in brackets) repeat twice.
For the set up is it knit 16 place marker, knit 30 place market, knit 16 place market and then knit 30? It seems to me it would make more sense to knit 16, place marker, knit 30, place marker, knit 30 place market and then knit 16. Would you please clarify? I’m thinking the 16 at the same end makes sense but I could be incorrect very easily!
Hello Carol,
This is a great question! Your set up row is as follows; K16, place a different color marker, k30, place a different color marker, k30, Place a different color marker, knit to end of round.
I hope this clears things up and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
Marilla
Can you specify whether the 16-30-30 sequence starts at the nape of the neck or the nose end of the head? I’m pretty sure I’ve started the head backwards…
Hi Dawn,
Thanks for writing in! The stitches for the head are picked up beginning at the bottom of the head, closest to the sheep’s feet, so the set up row should also begin at the bottom of the head.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I’m wondering if you could offer some advice for stuffing the pillow. I’m concerned that if I stuff it directly with polyfil, the fibers will slowly come out of the holes in between bobbles. How did you (or others) stuff the pillow? Pillow case? Thank you!
Hello Samantha,
This is a great question! You can make a little pillow for the inside of your sheep. We did this for the Gentle Giant version because the stitches are so large. I suggest that you pick a fabric that is close to the color of your sheep and sew a pillow that is the size of the sheep. Leave an opening to stuff the pillow and then whip stitch the opening closed. Before doing the kitchener stitch on the knitted opening, you will insert the pillow to enclose it inside the sheep.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi, Thanks for pattern. After I cast on with scrap yarn and then knit rnd 1 with main yarn, do i take out scrap yarn and if so how do i do this? Tia.
Hi Shannon,
Thanks for reaching out! The provisional cast on here will stay in place until you have finished the rest of this sweet little sheep! You will then pick out the provisional cast on, placing your stitches onto needles and kitchener the stitches together to close up the belly after stuffing the sheep. This direction is noted at the beginning of the “Legs” section and will basically be a repeat of the end of the body!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’m so excited to be close to my finished sheep!! I’m closing up the belly and put back the 46 cast on stitches to my needle. Im confused about removing my scrap yarn. Do I simply remove it? I’m worried about all my work unraveling 🤭.
Also, since I didn’t leave an extra long tail, I’m guessing I’ll add some yarn to the tail to do the Kitchener stitch graft.
Thanks for help!
Hi Vivien,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes that is correctly, you will simply remove the scrap yarn! I would recommend working slowly when removing it, you can then put each stitch back on the needle as you remove the scrap yarn.
For the Kitchener Stitch it is easier to use the tail (thats why we recommend leaving a long tail) however you can use an additional section of yarn to complete the stitch!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Can you please clarify with the markers? Is it correct that for the entire body (all three added in round 2) there will be three markers utilized throughout the pattern?
I’m not to the head/tail yet- but can you confirm the number of markers that should be in place through the pattern?
Thank you!
Hello Madeline,
Thank you for reaching out! Yes- you will be using all three markers throughout this pattern. I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I am from the netherlands and want to start knitting this adorable Sheep. Do you have the pattern in european measurements for the needles and amount of wool necessary.
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for writing in! When I need to translate a pattern from metric to US imperial, I like to use Google’s conversion tools. I type “convert cm to inches” into Google and a purpose-built calculator will appear. You can certainly do the same thing in reverse to convert all of the measurements you seek into metric! In this case, we used US 11 needles, which are equivalent to 8 mm needles, and US 3 needles, which are equivalent to 3.25 mm. The sheep takes 348 yards of Super Soft Merino, which is 318 meters.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I find round 5 extremely confusing. Would it be possible to write out the instructions as you knit, absent the * and repeats? I have tried this row multiple times and find it extremely confusing and the pattern does not seem to work correctly. Thanks so much!
Hi Tracy,
I’m sorry to hear you are having trouble with this row! Although it’s not feasible to write out the entire row completely without repeats, perhaps it will help to break the row up onto separate lines as follows:
M1L, K2
(MB, K3), repeat to 3 stitches before next marker
MB, K2, M1R, slip marker, K2
M1L, K2
(MB, K3), repeat to 3 stitches before next marker
MB, K2, M1R, slip marker, K2
These 6 lines comprise the entire Round 5. I hope that helps, and please feel free to reach out if you have any other questions!
Best,
Julianna
i can’t work out the head pattern at all. what does sm and ssk mean?, can’t find abbreviations for these in the pattern, and if i knit 16 then 30 then 16 then 30 i can’t understand how it will work. I can see that I have to do something like turning a heel, like a sock, but i don’t seem able to keep 16 stitches in the centre of the decreases..
have tried it on 4 needles, and on a circular, to no success, not enough stitches to fill a circular needle so end up shuffling sticthes along all the time, and thinking of doing it flat , sewing it on and having a seam in the head. managed body beautifully but getting frustrated after 4 goes at head. tempted to
Hi Catherine,
I’m so sorry to hear you are having trouble with your sheep’s head – this can be quite a tricky step for many knitter! You can find our full list of common abbreviations used in our patterns here, but for at least these two, SM stands for Slip Marker, and SSK stands for Slip Slip Knit. The head is shaped entirely with increases and decreases, so you shouldn’t be working any short rows, as you would for a sock heel. Since each section is increased and decreased at different times, you will not be maintaining a consistent stitch count in any section, so don’t worry if your markers are moving and your stitch counts are changing!
If you can get through the first few rows, I assure you that the mechanics of actually knitting the head in the round will get easier! Since the base of the head is not triangular, I would suggest using a full set of 5 double pointed needles and distributing the stitches of 4 as we show in our picture, and then knitting around with the fifth. If all else fails, you certainly can knit the head separately and attach it later!
Best of luck, and please let me know if there is anything else I can clarify!
Julianna
I love these sheep. I will be laid up with knee surgery and these are the perfect project for me.
Thank you for the free pattern.
Hello, I would like to hire experienced knitters to make these pillows for me to sell. Purl Soho, please contact me so we can discuss copy rights 🙂 thank you.
Hello Aye,
Thank you for your interest in our patterns! While we’re happy you like our Bobble Sheep Pillow, our patterns and designs are copyrighted and are for home use only. This means that you can’t use our patterns to make things for sale. We hope you understand!
Thank you for getting in touch!
-Marilla
I kind of get it, but not! I am stymied on row 5. I read the clarification to ‘Paula’ June 13, 2017 and it STILL does not work for me. Are there 2 increases close together? At the end of 21 stitches, I knit twice then increase one, K2 more, then increase 1 more and then K2 and make the next bobble?
Hello Antoinette,
Thank you for your interest in our pattern! Row 5 consists of “[M1L, k2, *make bobble (MB, see Notes), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches increased]”. This means that within the brackets you have two decreases, one M1L and one M1R, you will repeat the instructions within the brackets twice making a total of four decreases.
Your M1L and M1R will be close to each other.
I hope this answers your question, but please let us know if it doesn’t!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi,
I am really struggling with knitting the head of this sheep, after casting on 92 stitches, the pattern states to Distribute the stitches on three double pointed needles, however your photograph shows 4 dpn and not three. I don’t quite know where to put the markers as according the pattern it needs 3 markers but I have ended up with 4. Please help as I am getting very frustrated. Thank you.
Also, would it be easier to knit the head flat and sew them together? if the answer is yes how do I count the stitches?
Hello Eva,
Thank you for reaching out! After you have cast on your 92 stitches you will distribute these stitches onto 3 dpns and then use your 4th dpn to knit across. The photo shows this point in the process rather than the cast on. As far as markers go you are absolutely correct! You should have 4 markers, the fourth marker is your beginning of the round marker.
I hope this clears things up for you and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Warmly,
Marilla
Looking for the original pattern, and seems to keep looping me back to the updated one. Am I missing it?
Also, I have a bunch of Worsted Weight Yarn, would it work if I doubled the yarn? Or must make it smaller with smaller needles and follow the pattern as is?
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! You have found the correct page for the pattern! You can find it by scrolling up – it begins in the section titled “MATERIALS.” It is possible that doubled worsted weight yarn will work, but it’s hard to say for sure unless you knit a gauge swatch. Rather than trying to match our exact gauge, for a stuffed animal, you want to find the needle size that creates a tightly knitted fabric with your yarn to minimize stuffing showing through the body of the sheep. The same goes for determining the needle size if you decide to use worsted weight yarn without doubling it. I have seen this sheep knitted in worsted weight yarn, and he comes out much smaller but just as adorable!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi! I have an extra skein of kettle black linen quill lying around that I’d like to sub in for the head and feet. Could you please advise on how to adjust the pattern for this? Thanks so much. Can’t wait to snuggle up with this adorable pillow!
Hi Ali,
Thanks for writing in and for the kind words! Since Linen Quill is a bit thinner than Blue Sky Sport Weight Alpaca, I would suggest doing a second gauge swatch using Linen Quill doubled to see if you can get the correct gauge. If you check the gauge section at the beginning of the pattern, you will see that we do list a gauge for the contrast color. Kettle Black will look just lovely!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Love it and need a quick answer! How many yards does the large sheep take? How any yards does the small one take? Thanks for the help! Thanks
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! For our original smaller sheep, we used 384 yards of bulky weight Super Soft Merino, and for our larger sheep, we used 480 yards of super bulky Gentle Giant.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I have figured out the first row 5! But, now I’m at the repeat row 5. I’ve added 8 stitches thru m1 r or l. The math isn’t working out for the 2nd row 5.
It takes 2 stitches plus the k3 (or 5 stitches for each side.
Can you state the # of stitches needed for EACH row 5, and write out each row for all 3 repeat row 5s?
I’m beside myself as I’ve been at this for several sittings and have either torn out or gone back numerous times. Want to finish for a Feb. Baby!
Thanks!
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m sorry to hear you’re having trouble with your sheep! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources to add full stitch counts to the pattern (although I will certainly pass along your request!), but it should be fairly straightforward to figure out. Each row in this section adds four stitches, so I would suggest keeping notes as follows:
Row 5: (50)
Row 6: (54)
Row 7: Repeat 5 (58)
Row 8: Repeat 6 (62)
And so on, through each repeated section. You can check off each row as you go and track both which set of instructions you are repeating as well as how many stitches you should have at the end of the row.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
This is so fantastic.
When I was a little girl, my grandmother knitted a sheep hot water bottle cover almost identical to this one. It brings back memories… I will have to make this for my niece.
Hello! I’m having a great time making this pillow and and I’m attempting to start the head. When it tells me to place a marker for working in the round, it doesn’t specify where? Do I start on the bottom left, where I begin picking up stitches?
I’m also assuming I’m supposed to be knitting the outside, so going in a clockwise direction around the seam, rather then counterclockwise around the inside?
Thank you!
Hello Caroline,
Thank you for reaching out! These are great questions. Your marker is telling you where the beginning of your round is. This means that it will be placed between your last and first stitch. You will be knitting in the round, with the outside facing you, clockwise.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Am I right in saying that you could leave off the instruction after Round 6 to “repeat Rounds 5 & 6 three more times” BECAUSE Round 7 is the 1st repeat of Round 5, Round 8 is the first repeat of Round 6, etc. By the 3rd repeat of Round 6 I will have the 78 stitches. The reason I ask is that they are not really repeats of Round 5 & 6 (with increases) They have little variations. I almost repeated Rounds 5 & 6 as instructed without realizing all those rows were printed out.
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! After completing Rounds 5 and 6 the first time, you will then repeat rounds 5 and 6 three more times to get to 78 stitches before moving on to Row 7 which is written out in the next section. It sounds like your first interpretation of the pattern was correct!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
My question is about row 6. Are the increases , M1R and M1L in this row done as purl increases or knit stitch increases?
Hello Sarah,
Thank you for reaching out! These increases are knit.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Great project! My question is about pick up vs. pick up and knit…
When you pick up the stitches from the Provisional Cast On, do you pick up AND KNIT or only pick up–running the needle through the existing loops as you pull out the provisional cast-on yarn? And if you pick up and knit, is it a knit stitch or a purl stitch?
I see your tutorial videos on picking up seem to all show pick up and knit. Thank you.
Hi Joan,
Thanks for reaching out! Picking up the stitches from a provisional cast on is a different technique than what we usually call picking up or picking up and knitting stitches so our tutorial on picking up stitches might be not very helpful for this step. When you are taking out a provisional cast on, you will simply place the resulting live stitches on your needle as you take out the waste yarn and then follow the next step in the pattern – in this case, grafting the belly closed with Kitchener stitch – with a new piece of yarn if you don’t have a tail left from the previous steps.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Juliana,
I noticed you received a few people asking if you have a crocheted pattern for these precious sheep. Please add me to that request list. This project is too cute to be only for the knitters!! I sure hope you can get a crocheted version out to us! Thanks for such a lovely website.
Susan
This is adorable, do you have a crochet version with bobble stitch?? Thanks
Hi Shelly,
Thanks for reaching out! We do not currently have a crochet pattern for the Bobble Sheep but I will be sure to pass your request along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
I saw the comment above about being able to use worsted weight yarn – do you have a sense of how many yards that would require? Is it the same as the pattern? I have a nice woolly worsted that I think would be great, but I want to make sure I have enough to finish it!
Thanks!
Kelsey
Hi Kelsey,
Great question! When using a lighter weight yarn and smaller needles, you will need a little less yardage because each stitch is smaller, but not much less. Since our Super Soft Merino version of the sheep uses about 350 yards of bulky weight yarn, I would suggest having somewhere between 300 and 350 yards of a worsted weight yarn to make sure you have enough.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
I’m having trouble with the sheep pattern pillow. I’ve started it many times and now I’m going to try again. My problem is not in doing any of the stitches but the end and beginning of rows. I don’t understand how many stitches I need to end or begin with before I make a stitch. Is it 3 stitches before the end or one stitch. What do the seams look like or are there seams? Thanks
Hello Ellen,
Thank you for reaching out! This is knit in the round, so there are no seams. When you begin at the belly and you are placing your markers in round 2 you have your beginning of your round marker and then Purl 21 stitches, place marker, Knit 2 stitches, Purl 21 stitches, place marker, knit 2. Now you are back to your beginning of your round marker and your round has a total of three markers.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hello,
Is there supposed to be a hole to the right and left of each bobble? I do not see any in your photos.
Also, is it possible to get the length and width of the finished head size ? I am thinking of placing an eye on mine–Would you know what would be a good size to purchase?
Thank you for your help.
Hi Kimberly,
Thanks for writing in! The bobbles should be fairly tight and although there might be a slightly loose stitch to either side, there shouldn’t be a large or noticeable hole. If your knitting feels a little loose, you may want to try moving down a needle size or tug a bit on your stitches to either side of the bobbles to make sure there isn’t any stuffing showing through the finished sheep. The head is approximately 4.85 inches long and 2.5 inches high, but since the head is not stuffed, it may not support the weight of a safety eye well. Another option would be to embroider eyes on when the head is complete.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello! I absolutely adore this pattern! I included a link to it in a blog post a few years ago. I would love to update it with photos, and I wondered if I could use one of your photos? With credit, naturally. Thank you so much!
Hi Nicole,
Thanks for reaching out! We would be happy for you to use our photo and only ask that you credit and link back to Purl Soho for the photo in your post. We wish you and your visitors happy crafting!
Best,
Julianna
would LOVE to try this but am a visual learner ! is there a tutorial anywhere of the whole thing I can buy or access on youtube?
Hello Patricia,
Thanks you for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have a video tutorial for this project, but I will certainly pass along your suggestion.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi- what if I wanted to make this little dude smaller? can I just use a finer yarn with the same instructions or is there a better way? I made one of these about 5 years ago- it was fun but I’m looking for less commitment. Any ideas for me? Thanks. Nicki
Hi Nicki,
You absolutely can! We have seen a bunch of these sweet sheep made from worsted weight yarn and they are darling! You will just want to go down corresponding needle sizes as well!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hello, is it possible to knit this pattern on 2 straight needles instead of in the round?
Hi Beverley,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we are unable to rewrite this pattern to knit flat at this time. We realize that for some of our customers that this presents a challenge but we urge you to give it a try! Once you get the hang of it, you may find that you never use straight needles again, even for projects without so many stitches. Circular needles are just easier to keep track of (no losing one in the cushions of your couch!), and they never poke the person sitting next to you!
Best,
Julianna
Hello, I am on round 5 and am confused about the increases. I only have 3 stitches increased by the end of the round. I only have two markers, one BOR/EOR and one other one 23 stitches away (p21, k2). Is this correct? It seems I start the round with an increase, increase before my other marker, and then one final increase before the EOR marker. When I try the increase after the second marker the stitches aren’t even on either side of the marker and don’t match the other side. I’m so confused…
Hi Amy,
Thanks for reaching out! You do have your markers placed correctly, and there will be two stitches after each marker before the first increase, but I think you are not repeating all the way back to the first bracket so you are missing an increase. It might help to expand and break the row up onto separate lines as follows:
M1L, K2
(MB, K3), repeat to 3 stitches before next marker
MB, K2, M1R, slip marker, K2
M1L, K2
(MB, K3), repeat to 3 stitches before next marker
MB, K2, M1R, slip marker, K2
These 6 lines comprise the entire Round 5. I hope that helps, and please feel free to reach out if you have any other questions!
Best,
Julianna
In row 5 The asterisk to repeat is within the first bracket after the M1L. Are you saying we should repeat the entire bracket?
Hi Dana,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, you will be repeating the entire bracketed section of the row; however, within that bracketed section, you will be repeating the stitches between the asterisks until you are 3 stitches before the next marker, then completing the instructions in the brackets before going all the way back to the first bracket.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi there,
I was in New York last November and bought the bobble sheep pillow bundle in your shop. I only started knitting it this week and have just noticed there are 4 skeins of Gentle giant, 4 Skeins of super soft merino and I Skein of Blue Sky baby alpaca. Is there a mistake in the packaging as I don’t see any instructions for changing from gentle giant to super soft merino !!
The bundle I bought says bobble sheep in super soft merino
Please advise
Kind regards
Edna
Hello Edna,
Thank you for writing us about this! It sounds like you might have half a Gentle Giant kit and a full Super Soft Kit. To get this figured out as quickly as possible please e-mail us at customerservice@purlsoho.com explaining what happened and they will be able to help you resolve this.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello
I am working on the head of this fun pattern and I have a problem. I don’t seem to have enough stitches between the second and third markers to complete the decreases called for. After the repeats of rows 1 and 2 my stitch count was correct. But I am left with only 4 stitches between the markers. I’m not sure where I made a mistake. I would be grateful for any help.
Thanks for your help.
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like your markers might have been placed incorrectly in the first row. When working the set-up round, you should knit 16 once, then place marker, knit 30, place a marker, knit 30, place a marker, and knit the last 16 stitches, so you will have 30 stitches between markers one and two and another 30 between markers two and three. I suspect you might have repeated all the way back to the beginning of the row instead of repeating just the instructions within the brackets.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hello! I’m also working on the head at the moment. The body is done and looks like it should. I am left-handed and have googled instructions on the different technics, but I am stuck on how to knit the rounds on the head. I use a circular needle and when I follow the instructions I get the purl-side out. Any tips? First, I was thinking I could just purl instead but that doesn’t feel quite right.. What am I missing?
Hi Beatrice!
Thank you for reaching out to us, though I’m sorry to hear your bobble sheep’s head isn’t turning out as expected! It sounds like you may be knitting the head portion inside out, which is causing the purl bumps to appear on the outside of the head as opposed to the inside of the head fabric. Since you are knitting left-handed, you may need to knit in the opposite direction around the stitches you picked up for the head so that V-shaped stitches are facing you while you knit.
I hope this helps, but please feel free to reach out to us at customerservice@purlsoho.com for some extra help if needed!
All the best,
Margaret
Thank you! I bet that’s what happened. I finished the sheep by winging it and it’s ok. I have 2 more to make so I will be more careful placing my markers.
Ack. I knitted the body no problem but I’m having difficulty with the head. It appears to be upside down. So… I’m not sure what I’d did wrong. Has anyone else had this problem?
Hello Ellen,
Thank you for reaching out! This can easily happen if you begin picking up your stitches at the wrong point. You must be sure that you start at the left bottom of the Neck.
I hope this makes sense and let us know if you have any further questions!
Best,
Marilla
I have the same problem. The head is upside down. When you say left bottom of the neck it is not clear where is the left? If the sheep is facing as in the picture with the head placement on the left do I pick the stiches in front or in the back to start with. I am confused!
Hi Paule,
Thanks for writing in! When you are looking at the body of the sheep with the space for the head facing you (so that if the sheep had the head you would be looking face to face), from there you will start picking up the stitches at the left bottom of the neck. For the orientation, please see the image under MAKE HEAD + EARS.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Does the sheep only have two legs, 1 front & 1 back? I cannot figure out the directions for 4 legs!
Hi Chris,
Great question! This little sheep has one leg for the front and one for the back! You can certainly modify the pattern to make 2 legs on the front and the back but you may end up needing more yarn so do be sure to make sure the head is completed first!
Best,
Cassy
Hi. I’ve knitted the tail and am about to bind off but the tail is curved and not flat in line with the sheep’s spine. This is because of the two stitches across the top and the turn which you would expect to give a curve I guess. So the tail is twisting around not flat as in the photo. Please can you help?
Hello Helen,
Thanks for reaching out! This tail is intended to curve. You should have 5 stitches on either side of the body and 2 at the top. The tail may look flat in the photo because i is in profile, but it sounds like you are knitting the tail exactly right!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi there,
I just finished the body on this, the version I have made is a lot smaller. Would it be a problem you think if I crocheted the head and legs instead of knitting it?
Thanks a ton!
Kiran
Hi Kiran,
Great question! We don’t have instructions for crocheting the head and legs of our sheep, but if you are familiar with crocheting and confident you can create the same shape, I don’t see why you couldn’t!
Best of luck, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Hi there, I am on Round 13 and I have 90 stitches on my needle so I think I have done everything right so far, but the directions say to K3, MB, K3 to 4 stitches before the marker but after the last bobble before the marker, I only have 3 stitches left. It would be the same for the second repeat of the pattern (3 stitches left before the marker, not 4). Did I do something wrong somewhere? Your patterns are so well written that I doubt it’s an error in the pattern. Thank you!!
Hi Hilary,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you are right on track! The repeat should end with K3, so if you have already worked the MB, that would be the first of the 4 stitches at the end of the round, so all you have left to do is K3.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Which way do the ears face? The purl side facing forward or back?
Hi Lesley,
Thanks for reaching out! The purl side and opening in the ears should face the front of the sheep.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I am not a very advanced knitter. I am almost done with the body. The directions for doing the head on separate knitting needles seems so confusing to me – I like knitting in the round with round needles. Do you think I could knit the head separate and then sew on to the body? Or use the round needles on the body instead of using the separate straight needles?
If I did the head separate, would I cast on 92 stitches to start?
Hi Christy,
Thanks for reaching out! You could knit the head separately and sew it on if you would like, but you will still have to use double pointed needles. Because the head is much smaller around than any circular needles, double pointed needles will make it possible to still knit the head in the round. It might seem tricky if you haven’t ever tried it before, but our Double Pointed Needles tutorial should help shed some light on the process!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Julianna, Christy or others might also, if they don’t like using DPs, use a pair of circulars. I haven’t yet made this, but that’s what I do even for baby hats when it’s time to change to DPs. Just a thought.
This is such a fun and cute project! I also have a question about the sheep’s head. Do you start to pick up the stitches from the neck bottom, on the left side of the sheep as you face the sheep? It seems that this is the way the ears are meant to be constructed. Please advise. Thanks!
Hi Ginger,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you’ve got it! If you’re looking at our picture of the start of the head, the lower left hand needle is the first set of stitches that are picked up. If you scroll down a bit, you can see another image that shows how the ears are picked up from the side of the completed head!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Som jag förstår så går det inte beställa material längre, vilket garn rekommenderar ni istället som jag kan köpa i butik?
Hi Annika,
Thanks for reaching out! We are currently out of the white Super Soft Merino, but it is on order and hopefully will be restocked soon! I suggest clicking “Let me know when this is back in stock” and you’ll be notified via email as soon as the yarn or kit becomes available.
I hope this helps – happy knitting!
Cassandra
I figured out my problem on row 5 x my stitch markers were off
Hi Laurie,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m so glad you were able to figure out this row! It looks like we did reply to your original comment, but you may not have been notified – I’m so sorry for the confusion! We do our best to respond to all comments within a day or two, so if you don’t hear from us in the future, you can always check back here to see if a reply has been posted!
Best,
Julianna
I am confused with row 5. It starts with M1L, k2. I’m not sure how to start a row with M1L. Do I knit the first stitch in the row then make the M1L between the next stitch picking up the bar? Or make the increase at the beginning like a M1 only leaning to the left.
Will I have to move the beginning of the round marker after making the increase to the increased stitch?
reply
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! To begin the round with a M1L, you will start by slipping the beginning of round marker, then picking up the horizontal bar between the last stitch of the previous round and the first stitch of the new round. The result should be that the new stitch created by the M1L will be the new first stitch of the round, and you won’t have to change the placement of your marker!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I am having trouble with the head of the sheep pillow. On round 2 it says you decrease 2 stitches. But you also make two stitches with the m1l and m1r. So is the number of stitches still 92? Thank you. I am just getting to this project and hope you can help me.
Hi Mary,
Thanks for getting in touch! I think you might be looking at Round 1 of the head, which includes both increases and decreases. In this row, you will work one m1r and one m1l to increase twice, but will then decrease four times, so will end up with two fewer stitches than you started with.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Yes, I said round 2 and did mean Round 1. I think I understand what I did wrong. I will carry on and see.
Thank you for your assistance.
I’ve started a second sheep; love these critters! Question, please regarding the Kitchener for the top of the back. The yarn is on the front needle as the last stitch of the last round was slipped onto the left needle. Do I begin with 2 set up stitches and do I use the regular Kitchener stitch or Garter Kitchener stitch? Please advise when convenient. Thanks!
Hi Ginger,
Thanks for writing in! You can go ahead and start working kitchener stitch as normal, even with the yarn attached to the front needle! The first step of the setup will also start with the front needle which seems odd, but the look of the grafted seam won’t be affected by where the yarn is attached.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thank you so much Julianna! Super helpful! Kitchener stitch is daunting at any level!
I’m at the end of the tail and the 8 stitches are on two needles. Please advise on how to do the bind off. Are we doing a 3-needle bind off with right sides facing out? Thanks!
Sorry …. anther tail question! A close-up of the finished pillow on the Purl Soho website sure looks like the tail is made of PURLED stitches (which I love the look of!). But, the directions that I followed indicate KNIT stitches, and my tail has knit stitches facing out. What have I done wrong?
Hi Blanche,
Thanks for reaching out! The tail is worked in Garter Stitch so that is how you get that texture that looks like purl bumps but it is actually knit on both sides! As for finishing, once you complete the “DECREASE FOR NECK AND TAIL” section you will Divide the stitches in half, sliding 23 stitches to each end of the circular needle or arranging them onto two double pointed needles. Holding the needles parallel to each other, use Kitchener Stitch to graft together the two sides of the Bobble Sheep’s back.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I’m at round 9 and am very confused. The instructions says to start of with K1 and to end before the first marker with MB and K1, but if I’ve counted the stitches right I should have 39 stitches before the first marker (82 stitches alltogether), which leaves me with 3 stitches at the end instead of 2? Please help, I don’t understand where I went wrong
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help! Which section of the pattern are you working on currently?
All the best,
Gianna
Hi, I’m at round 9 and am starting with 82 stitches in total. This then leaves med with 39 stitches before the first marker, but following the instructions and starting with K1 and then proceeding with MB and K3 leaves me with 3 sitches before the marker and not 2. WHat am I doing wrong?
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! Are you using the correct number of stitches when you make the bobble? That may be what is happening here or that your stitch marker is in the wrong place.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thanks for the quick respons! when I’m making a bobble I’m using one stitch (knitting into one stich making 5 stitches and making it back to one stitch), so basically I’m doing 1stich for the bobble, then knitting 3 stiches, 1 stitch for the bobble, knitting 3 stitches and so on…..have I interpreted this the right way?
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for your response! That sounds correct! I assume then that you are coming up with an extra stitch at the end because your marker maybe in the wrong place. I would double check that and see if that helps!
All the best,
Gianna
Phew! Thank you for the help, I’ll double check the marker!
I am about to work on the head but am confused because you say start at the bottom left of the neck and pick up and knit stitches up the left side first. If I do that I will be picking up stitches on the wrong side of my work rather than the right side? I am confused, where am I going wrong. Thank you
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! You start picking up stitches at the left side but continue to pick them up around the entire circumference! You can see how we did this in the pictures posted under that section!
All the best,
Gianna
This is the sweetest pillow! Any chance for a crochet version? I would love to make four for my daughters!
Hi Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we only have this pattern available as a knit pattern and not crochet, but thank you for sharing your interest! I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
I have just finished round 4 and nervous to proceed to round 5 as it seems tricky and many have had questions. At this early stage of the sheep I’m guessing the knit 2 (that are next to each other) are the front and the back of the sheep. At this point I have 1 marker at the beginning of the row, then 21 stiches, marker (this marker followed by another knit 2, I’m guessing the back of the sheep) then 25 stitches till the next marker. Are my markers in the correct spot to begin round 5.
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! If you followed the set up round correctly and placed the markers in the necessary spots (which it sounds like you did!) then you should be good to go to move on to round 5! Unless for some reason you moved a maker once you placed it, they should all be in the correct spaces to continue on!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I’m just starting this lovely pattern but I’m having trouble with round 5, it starts with M1L,K2. How do you make make a stitch at the beginning of a round? All the tutorials on line show that you must always have at least a couple of stitches in a row I’m order to M1L or M1R. Thank you,
Patricia
Hi Patricia,
Thanks for reaching out! You can certainly make a stitch off of the very first stitch of the row, since when working a M1L or M1R you are making the stitch using the stitch below. This allows you to make a stitch no matter where you are in the work! I recommend checking out our Make 1 Right (m1R) + Make 1 Left (m1L) tutorial and follow the instructions but just apply it to the very first stitch instead!
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
Thank you so much for your response, i now see why I could not make a stitch, I was trying the pattern on straight needles at first, once I switched to double pointed it worked!
I’m really enjoying this pattern, lovely!
Thank you
Hi Patrica,
I am glad to help and happy to hear that you got it figured out and that you are enjoying the pattern!
Please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi there,
Can you point me to any tutorials for picking up three stitches in a single stitch to start on the head? I know how to pick up a single stitch but can’t figure out multiples. Thank you!
Hi Mary,
Thanks for recaching out! We don’t have a specific tutorial for this particular pattern, but we do have an excellent Picking Up Stitches tutorial that will show you several ways to pick up multiple stitches!
All the best,
Gianna
Eek! I feel so silly writing in but I have never done a provisional cast on before and I am completely stumped on how to join the waste yarn and then join the main yarn. Maybe I shouldn’t start projects at 9pm! I am so excited about this project and am a bit embarrassed that I am having trouble on the first round. I appreciate your help!
Hi Alexandra,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend checking out our Provisional Cast On: a One-Step Method tutorial! It will walk you through the whole project!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi, what circumference will the finished sheep have or measurement from one side to the other? Is there a big difference in measurement between the original bobble sheep and the giant sheep? From the pictures, the original seems to be more of a flat pillow and the giant version seems rounder.
Hi Anna,
Thanks for reaching out! I don’t have the full circumference of the sheep on hand, but the Super Soft Merino version measures 14″ from the top of back to bottom of belly, and the Gentle Giant version measures 15 inches tall from top of back to bottom of belly! The Gentle Giant version is overall bigger, rounder and a bit more plump than the Super Soft Merino version, which is a bit more flat and pillow like just as you described!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi,
I hate to ask another question about row 5, but here I go! I have no problems making the pattern/stitches work out up to the first marker midway through the row. When doing the second section of row 5, I always end up with an extra stitch. I really want to do this the correct way and not just make do. Please help!:} I have read several other posts and I feel certain my markers are placed correctly. Have you had any other questions concerning an extra stitch?
Diane
Hi Diane,
We’re here to help and are always happy to clear up any confusion, so please feel free to ask away anytime!
It may help to know how each section between the markers is broken down. Whenever you make a bobble, you’re only working with a single stitch at a time so I like to think of the “make bobble, k3”, as a 4 stitch repeat until you get to the last 3 stitches before the marker. With that in mind, the first time you work round 5 should look like this if written out fully: [M1L, k2, make bobble, k3, make bobble, k3, make bobble, k3, make bobble, k3, make bobble, k2, m1R, slip marker, k2] repeat once
By the time you get to the first marker you will have increased by 2 stitches, one from the M1L at the start and the other from the M1B towards the end so you should have 23 stitches total within this section. It’s incredibly important to include these two increases and note the k2 AFTER the marker. The next section of round 5 should have 23 stitches. 2 of these stitches are the k2 I just noted to watch out for. The other 21 exactly mirrors the first section. By the end, you should increase from 23 to 25 stitches. Finally, if all is done correctly, you’ll just have 2 stitches between your other marker and the end of round/beginning of round unique marker. This is reserved for that k2 just like before to complete the pattern!
I hope that helps you visualize what you need ahead of time now. Please let us know if you still have any questions though!
All the best,
Zha Zha
Thank you so much! I finally got it by adding a total of 4 markers and it read much better for me. Thanks for the response!
Hi! I’ve been looking at making this for ages! Quick question – is there any stuffing at all in the head?
Hi Diane,
Thanks for writing in! No, there is no stuffing in the head of the sheep, just in the body!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hello,
I would like to modify this pattern to make a sheep about half the size.
What is the stitch count repeat? Multiples of ….?
Thanks!
Hi Dawna,
Thanks for reaching out! This pattern works over an odd number of stitches!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
hi! getting everything ordered to start this little guy- approximately how much polyfil was needed to stuff? i’d like to make sure i’m ordering the correct sized bag. thanks!
Hi Wendy,
Thanks for reaching out. You’ll need about 12 ounces of polyfil stuffing for this sheep! Hope this helps.
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I’m confused about the number of legs. Are there 4…? Two in front and two in back? Or just one in front and one in back? Thanks!
Hi Elle,
Thanks for reaching out! There are only two legs, one in front and one in back!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
Are the feet only on one side? Or does the one foot stretch across? Thanks!!
Hi Elle,
The feet are created right down the center of the bottom of the sheep! They are located along the area created by the kitchener stitch when grafting the belly closed.
All the best,
Lili
Hi, your instructions for the gentle giant bubble sheep have been amazingly clear and wonderful. I just have one question . I just finished knitting the head,which it turns out I did inside out so the stockinette stitch isnt on the outside but that doesn’t matter,but before I close it with a Kitchener stitch I’m wondering if I should stuff it? You don’t say anything about stuffing the headbut from the photos it looks like it’s a little fuller and not just flat. I want to do this tomorrow so if you get to this comment I hope you will by then. Thank you
Hi Megan!
Thanks so much for your kind words!
The head of our Bobble Sheep are not stuffed, but you can absolutely stuff yours to make it stand firmer! I have seen quite a few projects featuring stuffed heads on the Ravelry project page for the Bobble Sheep, and I think they look just adorable!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly
Hi, there!
I’m making the head and I’ve run into a small issue. I’ve knitted “rounds 1 and 2 five more times,” but I have 70 stitches, not 68. I know this means I must have not knit a round 2 or otherwise missed two decreases at some point, but I can’t figure out where and I don’t want to start over! Any advice where/how I can decrease the two stitches I missed going forward. My round looks like this: 22 stitches, marker, 13 stitches, marker, 13 stitches, marker, 22 stitches. Should I just knit another round 2 before moving on or something else? Thank you!!
Hi Anjya,
Thanks for reaching out. After completing this decrease section, your round should have 22, 12, 12, and 22 stitches! So I think all you need to do is work another Round 2 to decrease the extra stitches away. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much! I figured it was simple, but hoped it wouldn’t be too wonky to have two row 2s in a row.
When you M1L and M1R, do you do it knit wise or purlwise?
Hi Tracy,
Thanks for reaching out. These increases are both knitwise! In general, if a make 1 increase is meant to be done purlwise, the pattern will likely notate it as “m1p” or “m1R(or L)-purlwise.” Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I’m starting this project and wanted to ask if you suggest 16 vs 24 inch needles? I’m still a little new to knitting and not sure which would better suit + get more use out of in future projects. Thank you!
Hi Jo,
Thanks for reaching out! Personally, I think I would actually use both 16- and 24-inch needles. The circumference of the body will end up being about 38 inches at it’s widest point, and that’s easier to work on 24-inch needles. But I would also recommend using the 16-inch needles as an intermediary length so that you can switch off of the DPNs sooner (since they can be fiddly to work with).
In terms of future projects, that entirely depends on what you’re planning on making! 16-inch circulars are great for hats, but you can use 24-inch needles (or larger ones) for sweaters, depending on what size you’re making. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi
I’ve frogged this 4 times! ugh
How many markers in total will I have when I start row 5?
Hi Marian,
I’m sorry to hear that you’ve been having trouble with this point in the pattern! On Round 5 in the INCREASE TO SHAPE THE BODY section, you should have a total of 3 stitch markers on your needles. Your end-of-round marker plus the two additional markers you placed on Round 2. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
i’m french. It is not easy for me to understand the english pattern but i really want to knitt this beautifful sheep.
Could you help me to undersand these abbreviations :
M3, SM, M1R and M1l.
Thank you very much in advance for your help.
King regards,
Caroline
Hi Caroline,
Thanks for reaching out, and no worries at all! This is what the abbreviations mean:
SM: slip marker
M1R and M1L: make one right and make one left (these are increase stitches, and we have a video tutorial)
I’m not sure what M3 refers to though. Can you let me know where you’re seeing this in the pattern?
In the meantime, I also wanted to point you towards our list of Knitting Abbreviations + Terms. This is a very useful resource for any knitter to have at the ready!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
Thank you very much for your help.
m3 is for example when you are in row number 13 when you knitt the body
Hi Lili,
a little message to tell you that Google translate can makes me crazy because only sometimes i realised that it change k3 in m3.
So i’m very sorry to take time to you to help me in this case.
Best regards,
Caroline
No worries at all! I’m so glad you were able to figure out where the confusion was coming from.
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
i do the Bobble sheep Pillow in partridge. I’m in row number 14 to make the body. I have another question : should the space provided for the head be a hole or is this space closed and you will have to pick up the stitches for the head on the knit stitches (k2). I can’t find in the pattern where the stitches of the body should be separated in two to create the open space for the future head. Thank you again for your help
Hi Caroline,
There actually isn’t any space that goes between the body and the head! The body is completely closed up, and you will pick up stitches from the outside to begin the head. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lili, i understand now it is ok for me,
kind regards,
Caroline
You’re welcome!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, My Bobble Sheep is turning out lovely….. thank you for the accurate pattern. My question. How do you pick up three stitches in one. No tutorials cover this. I winged it on the head, but would love instructions on the correct way to do this. Thx Suzie C.
Hi Suzanne,
Thanks for reaching out. The pattern actually gives instructions on how to do this! “To pick up 3 stitches in one stitch, pick up and knit one stitch, yarn over, bring the needle back into the same stitch and knit to pick up another stitch.” Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Help! I’m ready to start on the head. I know how to pick up stitches, but for the life of me I can’t pick up 3 stitches in one stitch despite your directions. Do you have a video showing this? Seeing it in action would be so helpful and I can’t find a video anywhere online. Thank you!
Hi Kristin,
I’m sorry to hear that this step is giving your trouble, and I’m eager to help out! I’m afraid that we do not have a video of this, but we do have tutorials for both of the components–picking up a stitch and the yarn over stitch. These should give you a good idea of how to do both of those techniques, and then you just need to put them all together to pick up 3 stitches in 1 stitch!
All the best,
Lili
Hi so I’m working on the ears now and I’m wondering if the outside is decreasing while the inside stays the same. I’m just trying to clarify the instructions to make sure I’m reading it right 😊
Hi Anna,
We are so happy to hear you are making a little Bobble Sheep Pillow! You are correct, the ears are slowly decreasing at the sides as you begin to work flat. This will help shape them into small points, kind of like the shape of a leaf! I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any more questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
I have the Purl Soho yarn to make the Gentle Giant version of the sheep. I can’t find the pattern for this version. I see the notes about following the Bobble Sheep Pillow in Super Soft Merino with a few modifications. I can’t find the Super Soft Merino pattern only the Partridge version seems to be available. Help!
Hi Susan,
Thank you for writing in! This page you are commenting on is the page for the Super Soft Merino version of the pattern. You can find the pattern under the PATTERN section and begin from there.
I hope this helps clarify!
All the best,
Gavriella