Brandi Cheyenne Harper For Purl Soho: Sea Sweater Coat
If you were on a cold and misty coast with the wind whipping across the dunes, you’d be lucky to be wearing Brandi Cheyenne Harper’s Sea Sweater Coat!
With a big, cozy collar that seconds as a hood, this duster-style cardigan incorporates Brandi’s signature attention to fabulous details. These also include gentle A-line shaping for a flattering fit, as well as clever knit-in pockets to keep your hands toasty and to store your walkabout essentials.
Brandi’s construction is just as considered. In her bottom up, seamless design, raglan shaping creates a decisive yoke, short rows form a dramatic hood, and the I-cord edging is knit right in as you go.
The yarn that amplifies all this beauty is our wonderfully big and squishy Woolly Wool. A lovely single ply of 100% wool in a world of soft heathery colors, it knits up in flash and also keeps you as cozy as a sheep gazing out at a blustery sea!
Designed (and modeled!) for Purl Soho by Brandi Cheyenne Harper.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoSeaSweaterCoat and #PurlSohoWoollyWool. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 8 (10, 11, 12, 13, 15) skeins of Purl Soho’s Woolly Wool, 100% wool. Each skein is approximately 109 yards/ 200 grams; approximately 860 (1010, 1130, 1265, 1400, 1560) total yards required. We used the colors Sea Turtle and Winter Green. (NOTE: We no longer offer Woolly Wool, but choose from one of our other super bulky weight yarns.)
- US 15 (10mm), 40-inch circular needles
- US 15, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 15 double pointed needles
- A set of US 13 (9 mm) double pointed needles
- A size N (10 mm) crochet hook for provisional cast on
- A few yards of similar weight scrap yarn for provisional cast-on
- Stitch markers
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- Optional: Point protectors for holding Pocket stitches
- A Sea Sweater Coat Pattern
GAUGE
7 stitches and 12½ rows = 4 inches in stockinette using larger needles
SIZES
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
36½ (43½, 48, 55, 59½, 66½)
To fit actual chest circumference of approximately 32–36 (38–42, 44–48, 50–53, 55–59, 61–65) inches, with 2–6 inches of positive ease
Finished Chest Circumference: 36½ (43½, 48, 55, 59½, 66½) inches
Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 38¼ (38¼, 38¼, 39½, 40¼, 41½) inches
Finished Sleeve Length from Underarm: 17 (17, 17, 17½, 18, 18) inches
Samples: The sweaters shown here are size 43½, worn with 5 inches of positive ease.
Pattern
The Sea Sweater Coat is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
Hello, This is a gorgeous garment and I have just the friend to knit it for. Is it possible to make it shorter? More of a car coat length. Also, is it possible to skip the pockets? Thank you for your time. Sandra in San Francisco
Hi Sandra,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! This coat would make such a lovely gift! The coat is knit from the bottom up, so you could certainly make this shorter (to your desired length) and I. think you could also omit the pockets, but skipping over the MAKE POCKET section of the pattern and moving directly to the CONTINUE WAIST SHAPING section.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
i’m so excited to knit this gorgeous pattern.
i’m having a counting problem….
in the SHAPE WAIST section:
on the Decrease Row (right side) it says at the end of the instructions for that row that you’ll have decreased 4 stitches.
I only count 3 in the pattern?
1 ksp before the marker + 2 skp after the marker = 3 decreases ?
where is the 4th ? what am i missing?
thank you so much!
i need to get this right since i’m going to be repeating it several times !
2) 2 skp after the marker
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for reaching out. There are indeed 4 decreases in this row! You’ll need to make sure to repeat all the instructions within the square brackets twice (not just the skp), so you’ll end up repeating both the ksp and skp twice. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I can’t wear wool what would be a substitute yarn?
Hi Gwendolyn,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately, we don’t offer a non-wool fiber at this weight (the yarn we used for this pattern is a super bulky/jumbo weight yarn) however, you may be able to achieve the gauge by doubling up a worsted or aran weight yarn, for that I would suggest using two strands Blue Sky’s Worsted Cotton! Just be sure to work a gauge swatch prior to beginning to insure you are consistent with the pattern.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
What is the difficulty level of this pattern, please.
Hi Beth,
Thanks for writing in! We don’t rate the difficulty of our patterns because we want people to feel free to try things that are “too hard” for them; we want to instead encourage people to discover that learning new techniques enriches the process of making. We do try to describe the skills involved with a pattern so that customers know what they’re getting into, so I’ll include a list of skills that this pattern requires, as well as links to our tutorials on them:
Left Lifted Increase and Right Lifted Increase: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/lifted-increases-rli-lli/
Wrap + Turn Short Rows: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/short-rows-wrap-turn/
Joining Sleeves to Body: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/joining-sleeves-to-body/
Kitchener Stitch: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/kitchener-stitch-video/
I-Cord Cast On: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/i-cord-cast-on/
Provisional Cast On: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/provisional-cast-on-video/
Ultimately, we hope that you will take little leaps into the unknown and find that the satisfaction was worth the challenge. As always, we are happy to help answer any questions you may have along the way!
All the best,
Lili
HI Lili,
I am reading the pattern and don’t see it as an I-Cord cast on! It looks like we should make an I-Cord and then pick-up and knit into it with a 40″ circular that has 3 live stitches on it. Is that correct? Please clarify! Can’t wait for my wool to cast on!
Hi Amy,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct, you will make an I-Cord and then pick up and knit into it with a 40″ circular that has 3 live stitches on it.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
Are the three stitches the live stitches that are on the 40″ circular? Thanks
Hi Wanda,
You’re correct, the 3 live stitches are the ones already on your needles as you knit the i-cord!
All the best,
Lili
Such a pity there are no buttons – and it looks proportioned so that there is no room for buttons. How could one work around that? When I’m cold, I like to be able to do up my cardi. Thanks
Hi Ruth,
Thanks for reaching out! Even though this garment is designed to hang open, it comes with 2-6 inches of positive ease so you could possibly add buttonholes on one side, and have a bit of an overlap, just be sure to consider the placement of the pockets when placing the buttonholes. You could also easily add a zipper!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
To truly stay warm, I’d want to be able to close it, rather than let it swing open! Would it still fit well if adding a zipper, since there’s no overlap needed?
Hi Leslie,
Thanks for reaching out! I think you could certainly add a zipper to this coat, and I think that would be really fun with this design! The only thing to keep in mind is that the coat is designed to hang open, so adding a zipper would make it a bit more fitted when closed, but the garment is designed with 2-6 inches of positive ease so it should still fit comfortably!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Shawl pin perhaps??
This is so beautiful. Is this a beginner or advance knitting? I’ve made a sweater before but a simple one and not a cardigan. I’m wondering how the opening is done.
Hi Angie,
Thanks for reaching out! I would consider this pattern an advanced beginner pattern! There are a few more advanced techniques, but we have an amazing collection of tutorials to help you along the way! If you have knit a sweater before, you should be able to make a cardigan, the only main difference is that a typical sweater is knit either from the bottom-up or top-down in the round, and a cardigan style is knit flat, working back and forth (rather than in the round).
I hope this helps, and if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to reach out, we are happy to help!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi. This is lovely. But it does not close in the front! It’s a heavy for cold weather coat/ sweater and does not seem to have the width to pull it closed…?? Please advise
Hi Das,
Thanks for reaching out! The coat actually comes with 2-6 inches of positive ease, so you could add in buttonholes on one side, and have a bit of an overlap. You would just need to consider the placement of the pockets when adding buttonholes in. You could also easily add a zipper to the coat, and this would not require modification and then it would continue to lay flat rather than having a bit of an overlap.
I hope this helps!
Gianna
Hi there, beautiful coat! I too would like to make it as a gift, it’s perfect for someone I know. I have a couple of concerns, though:
– this is gorgeous yarn, but do you think the single ply will wear badly? Pill excessively, shed, etc.
– do you think the sheer weight of all that yarn will pull the coat out of shape/stretch it out over time?
I’d love your thoughts.
Hi Heather,
Thanks for writing in! I think this coat would be such a lovely gift!
These are all great questions, with any single-ply yarn a bit of pilling and shedding is inevitable, but in my experiences with Woolly Wool, it doesn’t excessively pill, and using a sweater comb or gleaner regularly will help reduce any pilling that may happen. The yarn sheds a bit especially while knitting, but once the garment is complete and you block it, the yarn will set in place and the shedding should be much more minimal.
As for the weight, this is a heavy coat, but Woolly Wool does a good job of holding its shape! With time and wear it will likely stretch a bit, but re-blocking the coat when needed will help snap it back into shape. I would recommend checking out our How to Hand Wash a Sweater tutorial, it has some excellent tips!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Thanks Gianna, that answers everything!
So excited for this pattern! My fiber is on the way and I am reading through the pattern. Thank you for the video links, but it appears that Brandi’s instructions are different from the I-Cord Cast on video above. Please correct me if I am wrong, but it reads to me that you make a provisional cast on, and make an I-Cord separately, and then pick-up and knit into the cord with a circular needle holding the 3 provisional stitches. That is different from the I-Cord cast on, correct?
Thanks for the help!
Amy
Hi Amy,
Thanks for reaching out. That’s a really good point, and you’re absolutely correct in your interpretation! There are definitely many ways to do the same knitting technique, and Brandi decided to use a different one that we normally use. (Personally, I find her method a bit easier to do, although it takes more time.) Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I’m working on this and I’m sure it’s not an error but to clarify: in the “work even” section – row 1 at the end is meant to slip 3 with yarn in front? (Not back)? I don’t see how you would be able to do the icord border wyib but the two edges look different and i want to make sure I’m doing the right thing. Thanks 🙂
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for reaching out. There are multiple ways to create an i-cord edge, and while this one may seem a bit unintuitive, it actually works really nicely to create a symmetrical edge! Because the extra strand of yarn across the 3 stitches will get pulled in as you continue knitting, it will look exactly the same on either side. It just takes a few rows for it to even out! I hope this helps clarify things–you’re definitely on the right track already.
All the best,
Lili
Ok thanks Lili! I will trust you! I haven’t found an error in any of your patterns yet. 😊 thank you!
Hi. I am finding the same problem as Stephanie mentioned above. The edge created at the bottom of the left front side does not look like icord. I’ve done 4 rows and it looks bad with the yarn across the front. It actually looks more like icord on the wrong side, not the right side. The right side looks like purls and the extra strand of yarn is not getting pulled in as you mentioned above. What am I doing wrong?
Hi Gretchen,
Thanks for reaching out! This way of making an i-cord edge generally takes a number of rows for the tension to even out. If you haven’t knit very far yet, I’d recommend continuing for a few more inches and then reassessing. If you’re still finding that the i-cord looks uneven though, I’d recommend sending photos of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com so we can take a closer look!
All the best,
Lili
I just sent a picture to the customer service email. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks so much Lili!
Gretchen
In the shape waist section, the decrease row says at the end there will be 4 stitches decreased but the instructions appear only to describe 3 decreases – the first front section (before the 1st marker) and 2 for the back section. Is the decrease for the 2nd front (after the 2nd marker) section missing?
Also, the 2 decreases for the back section are both done on one side of the back after you slip the 1st marker) is that correct?
Thx in advance
Hi Diane,
Thanks for reaching out. There are indeed 4 decreases in this row! You’ll need to make sure to repeat all the instructions within the square brackets twice (not just the skp), so you’ll end up repeating both the ksp and skp twice. There should be a ksp on one side of each marker, and an skp on the other side of each marker. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Thx so much. I missed the bracket!! I knew there was an easy answer
Hello again! I am really struggling to understand the pocket instructions.
Row 2 from “pickup strand of yarn…” i cannot visualize at all what is supposed to be happening. Is the strand of yarn the working yarn or the tail from the beginning? I am not following the part about how to “pickup the strand” in row three either.
Is there a tutorial on this or something you can suggestion to search in order to find one? Or a way to clarify (I’m a visual learner but i can try to understand!) Thank you!
Hi Stephanie!
Thank you for your question! The Make Pockets section connects the outer pocket to the body of the coat. In Row 2 for the Right Pocket, the slipped stitch and picked up stitch combine in the p2tog to form the sealed end of the pocket. The picked-up stitch in question lies between the end of the pocket stitches (that were worked from the purl bumps in the “Place Pocket Stitches On Hold” section of this pattern) and the exposed body stitches. This strand is found in stitches previously worked and is not from working yarn.
In Row 3, the same logic applies; the strand to be picked up is located between the last exposed body stitch and the first pocket stitch. In Stockinette stitch, this is the bar between the two V-shaped stitches.
I hope this helps! If you have any more questions, please feel free to reach out to customerservice@purlsoho.com, where we would be happy to discuss this further.
Best,
Margaret
Love the pattern.
On the waist shaping decrease row it says to knit 3 slip 1 with yarn in back and then complete the decreases on both sides of each marker.
After the decrease row I continue knitting in stockinette using the special instructions for icord salvage (no longer slipping a stitch at the beginning of each row).
It looks like I am only slipping one every 8the row after knitting 3. Is that right?
Hi Nicole,
Thanks for reaching out. That’s a good question, and I can definitely see how the pattern is confusing in this regard! You’ll actually want to keep slipping that one stitch after the first 3 on every row, and not just on decrease rows. This will keep the pattern consistent to how it is in the WORK EVEN section. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Ive just finished this coat to use for getting to and fro the hot tub in winter; finally, a big warm robe! Since it’s so big and heavy, how should I block it? Soaking the whole thing like with smaller sweaters seems like it’ll take 2 weeks to dry. Is there another method that may be better? New to knitting, and I don’t wanna mess this one up.
Hi Kate!
Thank you so much for your fun question! You are absolutely right; doing a full soak for this garment would take a long time to dry. We recommend steaming instead of doing a full soak when blocking this coat. This way, the wool still gets blocked without the heavy water weight being absorbed into the wool.
I hope this helps! Enjoy your hot tub coat!
Best,
Margaret
In the part of the pattern where the first decreases occur, are you supposed to do the decrease (two times) at BOTH of the markers. The pattern does not state anything about the second marker , but it would seem that both sides will need the decreases. I think?
Please, please advise so I can continue making this gorgeous garment. Thanks soooo much!
Hi Martha!
Thank you for commenting! We noticed you wrote in twice, saying you answered your own question, however we wanted to go ahead with posting this answer in case it would help other knitters with this question!
You are correct in your conclusion that the pattern calls for decreases on both sides of the coat. The decrease row in the SHAPE WAIST section calls for four stitches decreased, which means that two stitches are decreased on the right side of the coat, and two stitches are decreased on the left side of the coat. The decrease row instructions in brackets are repeated two times like you mentioned, meaning the beginning of the second repeat has you knit to 3 stitches before the next marker, therefore bringing you across the back of the coat and over to the left side of the jacket for the two remaining decreases.
I hope this helps to clear things up!
Best,
Margaret
Hi! Should I be concerned about pilling, since the recommended yarn is single ply? If yes, can you recommend another yarn in the purl soho line? Thanks!
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out. With any single-ply yarn, a bit of pilling and shedding is inevitable, but in our experiences with Woolly Wool, it doesn’t excessively pill, and using a sweater comb or gleaner regularly will help reduce any pilling that may happen. The yarn does shed a bit, especially while knitting, but once the garment is complete and you block it, the yarn will set in place and the shedding should be much more minimal.
I’m afraid that our only other comparable bulky weight yarn is Gentle Giant, which is also single-ply and therefore is quite similar to Woolly Wool. But I think that as long as you care for the yarn with a sweater comb or gleener and block the finished piece, you won’t experience excessive pilling!
All the best,
Lili
At the end of the shape Raglans + Begin Hood you have 70 stitches for the smallest pattern. In the next section (Join Hood to right back neck), there are short rows without wraps where you do a skp and then turn ( 1 stitch decrease). For the smallest size you repeat those rows once, which would be 2 stitches decreased and yet directions say you have 66 stitches ( which would be a 4 stitch decrease). Could you please let me know what I am misunderstanding
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for reaching out. It sounds like you’re working from an older version of the pattern! We recently updated this pattern to correct a stitch count mismatch, and these are the changes we made:
On Page 5, the final stitch counts in the SHAPE RAGLANS + BEGIN HOOD section should read…
[68 (78, 84, 86, 92, 98) stitches remain: 32 (34, 36, 36, 39, 41) stitches for each Front; 4 (10, 12, 14, 14, 16) stitches for Back]
So instead of starting with 70 stitches, you’ll actually be starting with 68, which will clear up the further mismatch. You can access the most up-to-date version of this pattern by redownloading it from your Purl Soho account!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
please clarify ‘the pick up and knit part of the i-cord cast on’ – do I just knit down the cast on stitches? Im a bit confused regarding the pick up working into the top leg of the first stitch??
once I’ve cast on 96 stitches do I slip the live stitches onto the left circular needle and just knit the cast on stitches all the way back down?
thanks
Orit
Hi Orit,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m happy to explain the beginning of this pattern in more detail!
The first step is to provisionally cast on just 3 stitches. Then, you’ll work an i-cord for 96 rows, creating one long cord of 3 stitches around. This is different from having 96 live stitches on your needle!
At this point though, you’ll need to turn 94 of these i-cord rounds into live stitches. To do this, you’ll pick up one leg of each of the stitch on each of these rounds and knit into it, which creates a live stitch on your needle. Once you’ve picked up and knit 1 stitch for every round of the i-cord rounds, you will end up with 100 stitches on your needle: 3 stitches from the provisional cast-on, 94 stitches you’ve picked up from the i-cord, and 3 stitches from the top of your i-cord.
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi
What an amazing coat! A little daunting, but it is going in my queue. I am wondering though, does the coat lengthen a lot over time due to the weight?
Hi Lotte,
Thanks for reaching out. This is definitely a heavy coat, but Woolly Wool does a good job of holding its shape! With time and wear it will likely stretch a bit, but re-blocking the coat when needed will help snap it back into shape. I would recommend checking out our How to Hand Wash a Sweater tutorial, it has some excellent tips!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you for all the great responses above. With regards to the 2-6 inches of ease, does that mean the smaller sizes have 2 inches of ease and large sizes have 6? I plan to wear overlapped with a belt. Thanks!
Hi Danielle,
Thanks for reaching out. The amount of ease is actually consistent for each size, and it depends on where your own chest circumference falls within the range given for each size! For example, if you have a 50-inch chest circumference, then we recommend making the size 55, which will fit with 5 inches of ease. But if you have a 53-inch chest circumference, we also recommend making the size 55, but it will fit slightly tighter with only 2 inches of ease.
Since you’re planning on styling the coat with a belt, then I’d recommend choosing a size that results in a larger amount of ease! If your own measurements fall on the end of a size resulting in a lower amount of ease, you can even size up to the next one to ensure you have enough fabric to overlap with the belt. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Would it be possible to make this coat in the super soft merino? I think it’s a slightly lighter weight; how would you adapt the pattern to use that yarn instead?
Hi Lulu,
Thanks for reaching out. There is a way to use Super Soft Merino (or any other yarn of a different weight) for this pattern, but it involves some calculations! What you’ll want to do is select a different size to make that will balance out the different in gauge of the new yarn.
Here’s how to figure out which size to make: First, make a gauge swatch in pattern with your intended yarn and needles. Once you know how many stitches you’re getting per inch, multiply that number by the chest circumference measurement for your original size. Then, compare the resulting number to the stitch counts around the body of each size (70 (80, 90, 100, 110, 120) total stitches). The size that comes closest is the one you should make!
All the best,
Lili
Has the PDF available for download been updated to include the errata listed for this pattern https://www.purlsoho.com/create/knit/errata/ ?
Hi Kimberley,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, all of the corrections noted on the Errata page have already been updated in the pattern PDF. To access the most up-to-date version, you can re-download the pattern from your Purl Soho account!
All the best,
Lili
Will the proportions on this coat be appropriate for men’s wear as well? Love the style and with the right colors this should be unisex apparel.
Hi Rob,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m happy to hear that this pattern has caught your eye! All of our patterns are designed to be worn by people of any gender, but some may fit different body types better than others. I’d recommend taking a look at the measurements listed under SIZES to get a sense of how it fits. If you’d like advice on making any specific modifications, just let me know what you want to change, and I can absolutely help out!
All the best,
Lili
Going to give this a try and hope for the best. The pattern has several techniques new to me and I may may have questions along the way. Already I have one at the start. The provisional cast on calls for 3 stitches, but your i-cord video gives instructions for a 4 stitch repeat to make the i-cord. What am I misunderstanding here?
Hi Rob,
Thanks for reaching out. An i-cord can be made with almost any small stitch count! The most stitch count for an i-cord is usually 3 stitches or 4 stitches, but either will work perfectly and give a very similar result. A 4-stitch i-cord is just a bit wider than a 3-stitch i-cord. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Got it. So in this case it is a 3-stitch I-cord that I create. Makes sense. Thanks for the reply and providing backup to help guide a knitter like me through learning new steps for this project.
Exactly! And you’re very welcome!
All the best,
Lili
I’m having difficulty visualizing how to pick up stitches from the body when creating the pocket to close the front side. . I see this same question was addressed previously but have you any photos or video to show the technique?
I believe I did figure out the right pocket construction, though the pocket will be a bit wonky given I had to rework it. Perhaps struggling through on my own is a lesson in itself. Hopefully the left pocket will go more smoothly. Still a video or at least photographic lesson in pocket construction would be appreciated if available.
Hi Rob,
I’m glad to hear that you’ve figured out how to create the pocket already! While we do not have photos of this step, we are always happy to demonstrate techniques over Zoom. If this interests you in the future, I’d recommend signing up for 1-On-1 Project Help!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks. That’s great to know !!
Hello – I’m done with the continue waist shaping section after the pockets and I’m right at 30 inches. Should I start on the divide front/back or should I add a minimum length of straight knitting before doing so? Thanks!
Hi Toni,
Thank you for writing in! Right after you hit 30″, you are all set to move on to the DIVIDE FRONTS + BACK section! Please let us know if you have any other questions and we would be happy to take a look!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hello! I am a complete beginner so please forgive me, but since the yarn this pattern calls for (Wooly Wool) is no longer made, you recommended one of your other yarns in a particular pattern and the one I could find is Gentle Giant – how would you convert this pattern to use Gentle Giant? How would you adjust the pattern itself and how would you calculate how much of Gentle Giant to purchase for it? Advice would be so much appreciated.
Hi Dallas,
Thank you for reaching out! You can substitute Gentle Giant in place of Wooly wool without needing to alter the pattern. Since these two yarns are equivalent in thickness, no adjustments will need to be made for this project. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
how lovely, thank you! So – the pattern calls for 1130 yards of the Wooly Wool (for the size I want to make) and the gentle giant is 48 yards per skein. So do I just divide the total yards needed by 48 to determine how many skeins of Gentle Giant I need? I calculate 24 skeins when I round up. Am I doing this correctly? I’m sorry, I really am a brand new beginner.
It’s no problem at all! We are always happy to assist new and experienced knitters along the way! You are exactly correct, you will divide the total yardage for your size by the yardage included in a single skein and that will result in the amount of skeins you need. In this case, you indeed will need 48 skeins for 1130 yards. Please don’t hesitate to let us know if you have any other questions!
Thank you Gavriella, however I am confused. 1130 yards divided by 48 yards (per gentle giant skein) is 23.54 skeins, yes? but you mention I’d need 48 skeins. Did I calculate something wrong?
Oh gosh, sorry about that! You are correct, I meant to confirm you will only need 24 bundles, definitely not 48!
OKAY, PHEW!! I gotcha now. Thank you so much!! This really is a lovely site and I want to thank all those involved. I just started knitting in December and started with your learn to knit kit and I’m on my way and really loving everything I’m learning to do and this site with all its tutorials has been instrumental in helping me along. Thank you to you and all the team at Purl Soho!
You are very welcome Dallas!