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Ainur Berkimbay For Purl Soho: Cocoon Cardigan
The strikingly artistic Cocoon Cardigan pattern by Ainur Berkimbay is an architectural marvel, both to knit and to wear. Its corrugated stitch pattern beautifully articulates the sweater’s shaping, while our highly structured 100% merino wool Knitting Yarn DK adds even more lush dimension… Stunning!
A surprising and creative way to knit a sweater (what else would you expect from the wildly inventive Ainur?), you knit the Cocoon Cardigan sideways in two pieces, then join them at the spine with a 3 Needle Bind Off… No sewing!
You start each piece at the cuff and knit in the round, working increases to create each funnel-shaped dolman sleeve. Short rows shape the back of the neck and the bottom edge, and a picked-up edging makes a tidy finish.
Such an unfussy shape with such a big impact, this cardigan is oversized enough to envelop you and whatever else you’re wearing in a dramatic cocoon of warmth!
The allover Reverse Rib stitch pattern is just two rows of knitting alternating with two rows of purling, like deeper, bolder garter stitch ridges. Knitting Yarn DK’s cushiony 4-ply structure makes those ridges super defined… Lots of satisfying knitting awaits you!
A favorite yarn for knitting just about everything, Knitting Yarn DK has a wonderfully springy feeling on the needles and creates a smooth fabric with lots of stitch definition and a pleasant toothiness that you will love. This light worsted/DK-weight yarn knits up quickly without being bulky, and it comes in ready-to-knit balls so you can cast on right away.
Pick from 37 amazing heathered colors, including 13 new beauties. We chose mesmerizing Distant River and vibrant Sour Citron (one of the new ones!) to knit Ainur’s captivating Cocoon Cardigan… You’ll reach for it every time you want a warm hug and a dose of stunning beauty!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Pattern designed and written by Ainur Berkimbay for Purl Soho. Ainur sees the unique constraints of knitting as opportunities rather than limitations. Using her remarkable ingenuity and love of geometry, she designs beautiful and adventurous pieces for knitters who share her enthusiasm for shape, texture, and adventure. See more from Ainur on her website!
Story written by Andrea Lotz for Purl Soho.
Materials
- 6 (7, 8, 8, 9) (9, 10, 10, 11) balls of Purl Soho’s Knitting Yarn DK, 100% merino wool yarn. Each ball of this light worsted/dk-weight yarn is 219 yards/ 100 grams. Approximately 1220 (1430, 1575, 1690, 1795) (1965, 2075, 2160, 2350) total yards required. We used the colors Sour Citron and Distant River.
- A set of US 7 (4.5 mm) double pointed needles
- US 7, 16-inch circular knitting needles
- US 7, 32-inch circular needles
- Spare US 7, 32-inch circular needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A Cocoon Cardigan PDF
GAUGE
17 stitches and 33 rounds = 4 inches in stitch pattern (see Special Instructions)
SIZES
NOTE: For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
32¼ (35¼, 36, 37, 38) (40, 42, 43, 44¾)
To fit actual chest circumference of approximately 30–34 (34–38, 38–42, 42–46, 46–50) (50–54, 54–58, 58–62, 62–66) inches
- Finished Width from Wrist to Wrist: 32¼ (35¼, 36, 37, 38) (40, 42, 43, 44¾) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Hem: 26½ (28¾, 30¼, 30¾, 32¼) (33¾, 35, 35¾, 37¼) inches
Sample: The cardigan shown here is size 35¼, worn by a person with a 34-inch chest.
PATTERN
The Cocoon Cardigan is available as a PDF download only.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Learn About Knitting Yarn DK + All Our Beautiful Yarns
A true classic loved by knitters and crocheters alike, Knitting Yarn DK brings its crisp stitch definition, soft strength, and cushiony feel to this project! Made with 100% New Zealand merino wool, this light worsted/DK-weight yarn comes in a ready-to-knit ball you’ll love to knit from. Simple stitches, dimensional textures, beautifully articulated cables, and glorious colorwork… Everything looks amazing in Knitting Yarn DK! Making something big, like a blanket or sweater? Shop our 1000-gram Knitting Yarn DK On A Cone collection, too!
More Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our collection of (mostly free!) Knitting Yarn DK knitting patterns and cast on!
More Light Worsted/DK-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of light worsted/DK-weight yarns (What does DK-weight yarn mean, really? Our guide to DK yarn will answer your questions and demystify.)
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial and our Yarn Substitution article for lots of helpful information.
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop merino wool yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our knitting patterns (including tons of free knitting patterns) and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I wondered whether this cardigan works for and is written for a 3X?
Hi EstherGrace,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend checking out the size options, which you can find under the SIZES heading on this page. Our sizes are based on your chest circumference measurement, so you can compare that to the sizes offered and see if there’s one that will work. Please let me know if there isn’t one though, and we’re happy to take a look into next steps from there!
All the best,
Lili
Love this pattern, looks cozy and it’s on my list to make. What skill level is needed beside knit and purls? And yardage of worsted weight?
Thank you
Hi Rhonda,
We’re so glad that this design has caught your eye! Instead of assigning a difficulty level, we prefer to describe the skills involved with a pattern to help knitters learn more about what’s ahead. We know that learning new techniques enriches the process of making! Below, I’ve included a list of skills that this pattern requires, as well as links to any tutorials we have on them:
How To Read A Knitting Pattern
Lifted Increases
Short Rows: German Short Rows
Long Tail Cast-On
Knit Two Together (k2tog)
Purl Two Together (p2tog)
3-Needle Bind-Off
Picking Up Stitches
Ultimately, we hope that you will take little leaps into the unknown and find that the satisfaction was worth the challenge. If these techniques are daunting, I would recommend trying them out with some scrap yarn before beginning the cardigan. And as always, we are happy to help answer any questions you may have along the way!
In answer to your other question, this pattern was actually designed for a DK weight yarn, so I’d recommend sticking with that yarn weight! You can find the yardage in the MATERIALS section on this page, or in your pattern PDF.
All the best,
Lili
Hi How hard is this to knit?
Hi Lucy,
We’re so glad that this design has caught your eye! Instead of assigning a difficulty level, we prefer to describe the skills involved with a pattern to help knitters learn more about what’s ahead. We know that learning new techniques enriches the process of making! Below, I’ve included a list of skills that this pattern requires, as well as links to any tutorials we have on them:
How To Read A Knitting Pattern
Lifted Increases
Short Rows: German Short Rows
Long Tail Cast-On
Knit Two Together (k2tog)
Purl Two Together (p2tog)
3-Needle Bind-Off
Picking Up Stitches
Ultimately, we hope that you will take little leaps into the unknown and find that the satisfaction was worth the challenge. If these techniques are daunting, I would recommend trying them out with some scrap yarn before beginning the cardigan. And as always, we are happy to help answer any questions you may have along the way!
All the best,
Lili
A beautiful pattern. I am an intermediate knitter. Would I be able to tackle such a project?
Hi Marie Claude,
We’re so glad that this design has caught your eye! I think this would be a great pattern for an intermediate knitter, and we know that learning new techniques enriches the process of making! Below, I’ve included a list of skills that this pattern requires, as well as links to any tutorials we have on them:
How To Read A Knitting Pattern
Lifted Increases
Short Rows: German Short Rows
Long Tail Cast-On
Knit Two Together (k2tog)
Purl Two Together (p2tog)
3-Needle Bind-Off
Picking Up Stitches
Ultimately, we hope that you will take little leaps into the unknown and find that the satisfaction was worth the challenge. If these techniques are daunting, I would recommend trying them out with some scrap yarn before beginning the cardigan. And as always, we are happy to help answer any questions you may have along the way!
All the best,
Lili
This looks amazing! Like a cross between a wrap (which can be a little impractical for my lifestyle) and a cardigan sweater. Just the thing I need in my wardrobe. I can imagine throwing it on before leaving the house to run errands, and also wear it around the house while doing chores. At the same time it is simple and elegant and I’d wear it for a nicer occasion!
If only I could settle on a color and not be so indecisive! The lime green color is stunning, but so many others that are catching my eye!
How would Blackbird Linen work for this pattern? And if you think it’s suitable, would you go for one of the brilliant colors like electric blue or ruby pink — or for something softer?
Hi Cheryl,
Blackbird Linen would be a very interesting choice for this pattern! While it won’t make the warmest or fluffiest knit fabric like an animal fiber yarn would, the cardigan would come out with a ton of drape and with the cool softness of linen. I love the super vibrant colors of Blackbird Linen, so I think I would go for one of those!
All the best,
Lili
Is there or will there be a crochet version of this sweater?
Hi Jennifer,
I’m afraid that we don’t have a crochet version of this pattern available, but I’ll pass along your interest in this to our design team for future consideration!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
Instead of using DPNS could I start with magic loop?
Many thanks
Fay
Hi Fay,
Yep, you can totally use magic loop to start this project!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I’ve been looking through the pattern while eagerly awaiting shipment of my yarn, and I noticed 2 typos. They’re pretty obvious, but I though I’d alert you to them.
In the section LEFT BODY/Shape Left Back Neck, the second paragraph from the bottom gives the stitches remaining as [102 (111, 117, 1181 124) etc. Looks like the 1181 should be 118.
And in the section RIGHT BODY/Right Sleeve, final paragraph gives total stitches as [259 (280, 294, 3011 315) etc. Looks like the 3011 should be 301. I think someone hit the “1” key instead of the comma both times.
Please confirm that I’ve got this right. Looking forward to this project!
Hi Laura,
Thanks so much for bringing this to our attention! I’ve passed along your message to our design team who will review the stitch counts and make the necessary changes. I’ll get back to you once I hear back from them about exactly what the counts should be! I think you’re right, but it could potentially be more of a change than just deleting the 1s (though I think that’s probably all it is)!
All the best,
Lili
Hi again, Laura!
As an update, our tech editors have confirmed that the stitch counts should be 118 and 301.
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I’m 6’1″ and was wondering how I could increase the length without making the cardigan too big for my slim frame? I intend to knit the 34-38″ size.
Thank you,
Elke
Hi Elke,
That’s a great question! Normally, we would have a better idea of how to make modifications for our patterns, but since this cardigan has such a unique construction it’s extremely difficult to do so without rewriting the entire pattern…. If you’re feeling confident and ready to take on a challenge though, then what you’ll need to do first is choose a larger size, specifically one that is close to your desired length. Then, you can increase the rate of increases in either sleeve by repeating Round 8 more frequently, so that the sleeves/sides aren’t as wide. Once you’ve reached the final stitch count for the new size before dividing the back from the front, then you can follow the rest of the pattern as written.
All the best,
Lili
Greetings! I am petite and this sweater would be several inches longer on me than I would like for my small frame. How complicated would it be to adjust pattern length for a 5’ 1” frame without changing the lovely shape?
Thank you,
Marlo
Hi Marlo,
We’re so glad you’re interested in personalizing this pattern in a way that compliments your body in a more customized way! Admittedly, this would be a bit complicated because of the cardigan’s unique shape, but if you’re feeling confident and ready to take on a challenge, then what you’ll need to do is first choose a smaller size, specifically one that is close to your desired length. Then, you can decrease the rate of increases in either sleeve by repeating Round 8 less frequently, so that the sleeves/sides are wider. Once you’ve reached the final stitch count for the new size before dividing the back from the front, then you can follow the rest of the pattern as written.
All the best,
Lili
I purchased the pattern and can’t wait to make this! Do you think Good Wool would be a nice substitute for the Knitting Yarn? Which other of your yarns would work for this pattern? Thanks, Paisley
Hi Paisley,
Thanks for writing in! I think that Good Wool would be slightly too thin for this pattern. The gauge is 17 stitches and 33 rounds = 4 inches in stitch pattern, which is already pretty loose for Knitting Yarn, and Good Wool is a bit thinner than Knitting Yarn. If you’re aiming for a light and airy texture though, you could make Good Wool work! You may just need to size your needles up to achieve the gauge. For some other yarn options that would be a better fit, I would recommend using Note, Cashmere Merino Bloom, Vinter Wool, Morning, or Plein Air.
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
My Knitting Yarn arrived today and I’m getting ready to start this project. Very excited! The cardigan looks so comfy and I had the thought “this would be perfect with pockets”. Is there a way to add pockets to this?
Thanks,
Susan
Hi Susan,
That’s a fun idea! You could probably add pockets using the same technique as an afterthought heel for socks. Just use scrap yarn to allocate the number of stitches you want for the pocket, and then once you’re done with the rest of the cardigan, you can go back, slip those stitches back onto your needles, and knit the pocket from there!
All the best,
Lili
HI,
I am wondering if there is a discrepancy in the repeat rounds. I am working on size 35.25″
If I repeat the increase round 32 times, that comes to 224 stitches. Adding in the 49 stitches from the set up rounds, that totals to 273 stitches, short 7 stitches. I checked the other sizes and each one is 7 stitches short. Except size 37. Have I missed something? It’s the accountant in me that checks numbers…
Hi Anna,
Thanks for writing in, and it’s always a good idea to double check the numbers! In this case though, the pattern is correct as written. You’ll be working Rounds 5 – 8 thirty-two more times, in addition to the first time you work through them. The first time, you’re increasing from 49 stitches to 56 stitches, and then after that you increase 224 more stitches when you repeat Rows 5 – 8 thirty-two more times. That adds up to 280 stitches by the end!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
Okay, thanks for your reply. I have been counting the increases as I do them. It comes pout the same in the end ;0)
Anna
I am having difficulty getting the gauge correct. I started with a size 7 circular needle and began knitting a circular gauge swatch (a modified version of the method shown in your Swatching for Circular Gauge tutorial) in the pattern. I assumed that I measure the gauge of the purl bumps.
After a few pattern repeats, I measured and got 19 sts/4 inches. I was surprised because I usually have problems from knitting too loosely and need to go down a needle size. So I started over with a size 8 needle. Measuring after few pattern repeats, I got 18 sts over 4 inches.
I don’t own a size 9 circular needle, so I would need to go buy one first to try that. Any advice? Am I measuring too soon? The stitch pattern lies mostly flat, so that doesn’t seem to be an issue. Is anyone else running into this problem?
Thanks.
Hi Kim,
I’m sorry that you’ve been struggling to achieve the gauge of this pattern! Have you blocked your swatch yet? 18 stitches is very close to 17, so you will probably be able to stretch the swatch ever so slightly while blocking to match the gauge perfectly. And since you’ll likely be blocking your finished project, you can do the same thing to make sure it’s exactly the right size!
All the best,
Lili
I have not blocked my swatch yet. But isn’t it the case that I would have to SHRINK rather than STRETCH from 18 sts to 17 sts. Not impossible, but I think I will try the size 9 needles to see if that works better. I am just so surprised by the gauge difference.
Hi Kim,
I would definitely try blocking then, before you try swatching again! Since you have 18 stitches within 4 inches, instead of 17 stitches within the same distance, that actually means that each stitch is slightly smaller than it should be, so you will need to stretch it every so slightly to get the correct gauge. Blocking will make that possible!
All the best,
Lili
When you do the LL1, since the second row down was a purl stitch, do you pull the left leg under the purl bump?
Hi Cheryle,
Thanks for writing in! The stitch in the second round beneath the live stitch on the right needle will actually look just like a regular knit stitch, so you can work the LLI normally!
All the best,
Lili
Hi.
I’m guessing all of your dk weight yarns would work well in this pattern.
I was looking at Note and Cashmere Merino Bloom for some different color options.
Also, if the wearer is in between sizes, how should I choose a size? What else should I consider? If the person is a 38” chest but is also slender and average or short, should
I go with the smaller size?
Hi Natalie,
Yeah both Note and Cashmere Merino Bloom would be wonderful for this pattern! I think in this case I’d go with the smaller size!
All the best,
Lili
I am having trouble with the jog that occurs when I change from the purl to knit or knit to purl stitch at the beginning of a round. Is there a way to make the change less noticeable ?
Hi Carolyn,
I’m afraid that there will always be a jog when switching between knits and purls in the round! That’s because “in the round” is actually a spiral, so the end of each round is one round higher up than the beginning of the same round. It’s one of those little quirks of knitting that adds to the specialness of a handmade garment!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I’m on the home stretch with this beautiful cardigan, and so excited to wear it. Sadly, I have come unstuck at the ‘shape right back neck’ part. I’ve tried it twice, and each time, it feels like I’m knitting when I should be purling, and purling when I should be knitting. I’m knitting size 36, which, if I’m reading correctly, means that I DON’T do an extra round 5 and 6 before I divide for the back and front. This means that looking at it on the right side, I’ve just completed 2 rows of knit stitch. But now I’m turning the work and doing a row of purl… so I end up with three rows of knit on the right side? And then I turn the work again and do Short Row 1, which is another row of knit. So now I’ve got 4 knitted rows in a row (so to speak), and then from there, the ‘two rows purl, two rows knit’ rhythm picks up again. Is this right or am I making a mistake I cannot for the life of me see? Help before I go mad! Thank you!!
Hi Val,
I’m so sorry that you’re running into trouble at this spot, and I’m happy to help! You’re right that you’ll be knitting and purling on what might seem like the incorrect rows. But never fear, as long as you follow what the pattern says it’ll work out! You’re knitting flat during the short rows, so you will need to work the opposite stitch of what you have been knitting so far when you were knitting in the round.
As for the number of times you repeat Short Rows 3 – 6 for size 36, you work them initially once, and then repeat them 2 more times. That means you’ll end up working Short Rows 3 – 6 a total of three times before moving on in the pattern! After you finish the second repeat (or third total time), you work Short Rows 3 and 4 once more, and then work Next Round. And after that, you’ll be ready to begin the Shape Right Back section!
I hope this helps clarify things, but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili
Hey Lili,
I think you and I are talking about different sections of the pattern. I haven’t gotten to short row 3 yet. My question is around the last paragraph of the Right Sleeve section, where it says: repeat rounds 5-8 (33 times) (done), then work rounds 5 and 6 (0) more times (done). This means that at the point where I turn the work, (for Divide Right Back and Front) I’ve just completed 2 knit rows. Is this correct? Because then when I turn the work and do the purl row (Division Row), that makes 3 rows of knit stitches on the right side of the work. And then when I turn it again (short row 1), I’m back on the right side, and now I’m knitting again, which makes 4 rows of knit on the right side. I think I’m going mad. Thank you for your patience in trying to explain this to me. I’m sure I’m missing something and the pattern is perfect and I just can’t wrap my head around it. And now I’m so far in I can only see what I can see!
My apologies, I thought you were at the Shape Right Back Neck section! I now see what you mean about the additional row of knit stitches, and I’m going to reach out to our design team about that. I’ll follow up with you as soon as I hear back form them!
All the best,
Lili
Hi again, Val!
I want to confirm that our design team found an error in this spot and have updated the PDF. You can find the change on our Errata page, and you can download the updated version of the pattern from your Purl Soho account. Thank you again so much for bringing this to our attention!
All the best,
Lili
I just ordered Knitting Yarn for this in Purple Prune . Its occures to me that a contrast color around the large outside edges of the pieces and then down the back where it’s seamed might be fun.
Would I need more than 1 skein for a 1 inch border in size 36 do you think? Possibly the New Leaf Green to lighten it up.
Hi Ro!
That sounds like an amazing idea! I’m afraid we haven’t tried this modification though so we aren’t able to estimate just how much yarn you will need. I’d recommend getting 2 skeins just in case and we’d be happy to accept a return if you end up not using the 2nd skein. You can also read our full return policy for further details.
I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
I have made a couple of projects in a row that upon completion were just too large. Not purl soho patterns, but 2 patterns from 2 other makers. Any way, to have the end result look like the photo on the pattern, what size would I make for a 42” measurement.
Hi Kim,
I’m so sorry that your recent projects turned out too large! Did you by any chance knit up a gauge swatch before beginning? Gauge is usually the culprit for sizing issues, so I’d highly recommend swatching to make sure you achieve the pattern’s gauge. You may need to size your needles up or down to match the gauge, but once you do so, you can knit the pattern as written and it will fit perfectly! If this is daunting, we have a wonderful tutorial called All About Gauge that I’d suggest giving a look over.
All the best,
Lili
I’m up to “shape left back neck” an I purled to the marker. Do I slip or remove the marker and then do the double stitch? Then turn?
If so shouldn’t row 2 be a knit row to stay in pattern?
Hi Mimi,
You don’t need to slip or remove the marker on this row! Just keep it in the same place for the time being, and you’ll be making the double stitch with the stitch right next to the marker. Row 2 is a purl row though, since you’ll be on the next “ridge” at that point!
All the best,
Lili
I have gotten stuck in the shape left back neck section—this should be knit flat, correct? If so, as I understand short row 1, I purl to the marker on the wrong side, turn work, do double stitch, then knit to the end of the row (now facing right side) according to short row video. Then row 2 is supposed to be purl on right side, but I would need to flip to wrong side to do next row?? Sorry, I am very confused.
Hi Jenni,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m happy to help! Yes, whenever you’re working in short rows, you will be working flat. You will turn your work from the wrong side to the right side as you create the double stitch at the end of Short Row 1. Then, you knit Short Row 2, which is a wrong side row. Then, since you’re working flat, you will need to turn your work after completing Short Row 2 from the wrong side to the right side so you can begin Short Row 3, which is a right side row!
All the best,
Lili
Ok, still confused. When shaping back neck, I still have 2 markers evenly spaced in my knit flat area. When I do short row 1, it says to purl to next marker, then double stitch. After turning work, do I continue a knit stitch to the end of the flat section, or do I immediately start on short row 2? In other words, is the entire neck section done between end of row and first marker?
Hi Jenni,
Creating the double stitch is the very last thing you do on Short Row 1, so you will begin Short Row 2 immediately afterwards! And yes, all of these short rows are worked before the first marker!
All the best,
Lili
Hi – I was wondering what size I should knit if my chest measurement is 44” and how much yarn is required. I am very confused as how to figure out my size for this pattern . There are so many numbers and parenthesis! I did order yarn for this beautiful cardigan – 9 skeins in Soft Sky. I think I may need 10 now that I am looking at the pattern. What do you think? My chest measures 44” and I want the cardigan to be roomy! Which is the size I should knit? Thanks again for your help.
Barbara
Hi Barbara,
Great question! The first set of numbers you’ll need to take a look at are the numbers after “To fit actual chest circumference of approximately.” I’ll paste those below for quick reference:
To fit actual chest circumference of approximately 30–34 (34–38, 38–42, 42–46, 46–50) (50–54, 54–58, 58–62, 62–66) inches
A chest circumference of 44 inches would fall into the 42–46 range, which is the third range within the first set of parentheses. That lines up with size 37, which is also the third size within the first set of parentheses, so that’s the size I would recommend making! This cardigan fits with a lot of extra room, even though the finished width is usually smaller than the chest circumference range. It’s not meant to close all the way at the front!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much Lili! Got it! So turns out I have plenty of yarn to knit this cardigan (9 skeins) …onward!
Yay! You’re very welcome!
All the best,
Lili
What exactly is a “unique” market? His dies it differ from a regular marker. Thanks.
Barbara
Hi Barbara,
A unique marker is one that’s different from all the other markers you’re using in a project! It can be a different size, different color, different shape, or a combination of those things, just so long as you can tell it apart from the others!
All the best,
Lili
Oh! Okay – understand now. Thanks!
Love this one! If I wanted to make this in a cooler, summery, plant-based fiber, what would you recommend?
Hi Nicole,
We’re so glad you love this pattern! Cotton Chirp would be a lovely warm-weather alternative to Knitting Yarn. Cotton Chirp is made from 100% pima cotton, so it’s incredibly soft and breathable. It’s also completely machine washable!!
All the best,
Lili
Hi – I have just gotten to the German Short Rows. I am a little confused. I am on the wrong side…short row 1 – I purled to the marker. It says make double stitch. When I refer to instructions for make double stitch, it says – turn work ( I would then be on the knit side (RS) Is this correct. I then follow tutorial for making double stitch on knit side (RS) ? Thanks for your help.
Hi Barbara,
If you’re beginning the double stitch process on the wrong side, then you’ll follow the directions for double stitch on the wrong side! The very first step of creating a double stitch is turning your work, so you’ll turn your work to the right side to start off. Then just complete the instructions for creating a double stitch on the wrong side since it began on the wrong side!
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
I am lost eith the markers…
In section shape left body and neck, it sais purl to marker. Are these markers /mentioned in this section / the same ones from the sleeve part? Or when and in what stitches should I place them?
Thank you in advance!
Hi Reka,
Thank you for reaching out! In the Left Sleeve section you will place an additional 6 markers markers on Round 3 for a total of 7 markers. Is this the section you are referring to? I hope this helps clarify!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Dear Gavriella!
Thank you for your answer. Unfortunately what i don’t understand is whether i put new special markers at the beginning of the left neck shape or are these markers the same of the 7 from the very beginning of the left sleeve???
Oh I see—so sorry about that! You will leave the markers you have already placed throughout both sections. So you won’t need to remove and place new markers unless the pattern specifies to remove marker.
Hi – me again…what I really want to know …is when I turn my
Work to the opposite side to do the double stitch… From wrong side to right side, do I then knit across row . It then says row 2 will be the right side…and to Purl. Very confused. Please help!
Hi Barbara,
That is correct. In order to make your double stitch, you will first turn your work and THEN make your double stitch. This entire instruction is part of the short row. This mean it will reorientate your work to now continue the next short row by working in the same direction. I hope this helps but if you’d ever like a more in depth demonstration, you can sign up for one of our free 1-on-1 zoom sessions and a member of our team would be happy to go over this together.
All the best,
Gavriella
After several attempts, I have finally gotten the left sleeve and the division row completed. The instructions for the first short row are purl to first marker and make a double stitch. What then? The next instructions are for row 2
Hi Peggy,
Thanks for writing in! After you’ve created the double stitch you are ready to begin Short Row 2. Short rows are “short,” so you do not knit the other stitches on your needle after making the double stitch. Just start following the instructions on Row 2, and you’ll be on the right track!
All the best,
Lili
I’m having trouble understanding the directions for the left front. I’ve done the division row, but am confused at the first of the German short rows. (1) do you the slip stitch before or after the marker? 2) are you slipping an already purled stitch onto the right needle? (3) absolutely don’t understand the wrapping step. (4) how do you finish row 1?
Hi Peggy,
Thanks for writing in! I’m afraid I’m not quite sure what row you’re referring to. Here’s what I’m seeing for the very first short row after the Division Row:
Short Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to next marker, make double stitch (see Special Instructions).
This row just contains purl stitches and a double stitch, so no slipped stitches (except as part of the double stitch) or any wrapping necessary! Would you mind letting me know a bit more about what your questions are, or let me know if you’re actually referring to a different row?
I’m eager to help you move forward in this pattern!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for your response. I think I’m beginning to understand, but I don’t understand how to do the double stitch at the end of the row – after I have knit to the first marker
You’re very welcome! I’d recommend checking out our German Short Rows tutorial for a video tutorial on how to create a double stitch. I’m also happy to demonstrate this over Zoom and answer any other questions you may have, so if you’re interested in that, you can sign up for a 1-On-1 Help appointment!
All the best,
Lili
I joined the left and right body but my last stitch is at the middle of the neck side. Any problem with just continuing on with the appropriate increases at this point?
Hi Marcia,
Thank you for writing in although we are sorry to hear you are running into issues here. Could you please send a photo of your project to [email protected] so we can have a deeper look? We’ll be able to better visualize what’s going on that way!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hello, I’m almost ready to join the two halves and I’m looking forward in the instructions for finishing to try to visualize what I will be doing next. I’m so confused about “join for working in the round.” There isn’t a round that I can picture, since the two halves are joined at the back and nowhere else and there is no continuous tube at that point. What am I missing? Thank you so much.
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for asking! You will first start by working in the round for each sleeve before then working flat to finish each half. After that you will be ready to join the two halves together no longer working in the round. So ultimately you will work in the round only up until the point you are ready to work flat. You will not return back to working in the round until you start the next half. I hope this helps clarify but please let me know if there is anything else we can do for you!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi Gavriella, if I’m understanding your reply, you are saying that each half is worked in the round before switching to flat before joining. I’m joining the two halves now, but my question is specifically about the finishing instructions, which I’m looking ahead to. After picking up and knitting across the edges, it says to join for working in the round, then knit and purl in the round. I must be missing something! Thanks again for any clarity on this.
Hi Elizabeth,
So sorry that I misunderstood your request! I see where you mean now. For this finishing section, you will pick up stitches all around the opening of your cardigan to finish the piece with a nice seamless edge. Kind of the way you would pick up for a button band to finish a cardigan but in this case you are working stitches on the entire opening of your project. After you have all of your stitches on your needles, you will then join to work two large continuous rounds before binding off.
I hope this better helped answer your question but please let me know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi again, I ended up figuring it out. At the very end, you pick up stitches and knit the on-hold stitches so the entire thing is worked in the round to finish the edges. Thank you!
Well my second attempt on “shape rightback”! left was a piece of cake! I’m beginning to think on shape right back there is an error!
Short row 1 … knit to 2 stitches before next marker . on the shape left back short row 1 you have more stitches to work with as it says purl to next marker remove marker and purl to two stitches before next marker make double stitch! I’m so discouraged. Thank you
Hi Teana,
I’m so sorry you’ve run into trouble on the right side of the cardigan, and I’m eager to help! I think you may be thinking of a different row on the left back. I’ve pasted Short Row 1 for both sides below to compare them:
Shape Left Back Neck
Short Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to next marker, make double stitch (see Special Instructions).
Shape Right Back Neck
Short Row 1 (right side): K2, k2tog, knit to next marker, make double stitch. [110 (119, 125, 128, 134) (140, 146, 149, 155) stitches remain]
The only difference between these two rows (apart from one being knit and the other purled) is the decrease stitch on the right side. You work that decrease on Short Row 2 for the left side, so it ends up functioning in the same way, just in a slightly different place. But other than that, you’re ultimately working to the marker and making a double stitch at that point on both sides!
I hope this helps you move forward in your project, but please let me know if there’s anything else I can do to help!
All the best,
Lili
I’m confused. When do I put the 180 stitches on the stitch holder back on the needles and work them.
Hi Beverly,
Thank you for asking! You will put the remaining stitches from the holder on your needle once you are ready to complete the 3 needle bind off. Please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
I bought this pattern but have not yet started. I have small shoulders and a larger bust. Frequently, I have a problem with the shoulders slipping down. Is the design in the back a shaping that prevents this? Any suggestions? If I size my bust, the shoulders are too wide. I can do the skills listed.
Hi Rosanne,
Thanks for reaching out! I totally hear you as I also tend to have this issue with certain garments. In this case I’d recommend something with more of a shawl collar to get you a little more support around the shoulders. Something like our Crafted Cardigan or the Olson Cardigan. These types of cardigans are sure to stay on your shoulders a little better. I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
I am working on this cardigan and have just finished the portion for the Left Body – Shape Left Back Neck. I am working on size 36 to fit a chest measurement of 38-40 inches. The question is about the number of stitches that should remain after completing the portion to Shape Left Back Neck. I started the shaping with 125 stitches on needles. I did short row working on rows 1-5 once, then the pattern says to do rows 2-5, three more times. After that to work short rows 2-4,one more time. Your pattern states that I should have 117 sticthes remaining, but I have 115. I decreased a total of 10 stitches working the short row pattern a total of five times. Is this a mis-print? Will losing the 2 stitches from 115 to 117 make a difference in this cardigan? Thanks for looking at this – Marianne
Hi Marianne,
So sorry you are running into trouble here. For the size 36, you should actually only decrease a total of 8 stitches in this section. I have added a breakdown below.
Work rows 1-5 (-2sts)
Work rows 2-5 two more times (-4 sts)
and then finally work rows 2-4 once more (-2)
I’d recommend ripping back to the point you finished rows 2-4 the final time being careful to pick up the extra stitches you decresed. I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
I’m a fairly new knitter who has just completed shaping of the Left Back Neck. I’ve got 111 stitches on the needle. 160 stitches remain on my scrap yarn. I’m confused about getting those 160 stitches back on the needles so I can work the Left Back. I can’t visualize where the project is going at this point.
Hi Susan,
In this section you are actually working the next set of short rows on the same stitches you have on your needles rather than over the 160 stitches you have on hold. You will leave the 160 stitches on hold until the end where you will pick up stitches from all around the opening to finish your cardigan in the FINISHING WORK EDGING section. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gavriella
I’m having trouble with the gauge. Using the US7 I have a bout 20 stitches per 4″ over 33 rows. So, I went up to a US 8 needle and was able to get the stitch gauge, but now the row gauge is too large and doesn’t look like the finished examples, even after blocking. Could I use the US7 needles and choose a larger garment size (original size was going to be 36 for a 40″ chest measurement)? I’m having trouble visualizing what the pitfalls of that would be.
Hi Carrie,
In this case since the cardigan is worked in a horizontal fashion, I’d recommend knitting the original size you selected with the size 7 needles. Its likely your row gauge might grow a bit the further you get along. Please let us know if you have any more questions along the way!
All the best,
Gavriella
I have made it to the last steps. I don’t understand the instructions for the pick up round. Could you post a video on how to pick up and knit stitches? Am I basically picking up stitches between the stitches that were put on hold and transferring those stitches onto the same needle to make one large loop? Do I knit the picked up stitches before I transfer the stitches on hold? Please help 😬
Hi Alma,
I’m afraid we don’t currently have plans to create a video for this section of the pattern. You are right on track though, you will pick up stitches between the held stitches to create a large loop to finish off your cardigan. Please let us know if you have any more questions along the way!
All the best,
Gavriella
This is a request for some assurance about the three-needle bind-off used to join the left and right pieces. It seems that the pattern calls for the traditional 3-needle bind-off, with the right sides of the two pieces together. I was hoping to see more detail in the photos to see how it ends up looking. Since the right sides of the fabric end with a purl row, it would be very unlike the fabric as demonstrated in your wonderful Purl Soho 3-needle bind-off video. The photos from the pattern do not show this in any detail, and the resulting fabric down the back seems to have a flat valley instead of the chain/purl ridge. I may not be explaining this well…If more detailed photos are not available, please assure me that I have the right idea about performing the join.
Hi Kim,
Thanks for asking! You will work the 3 needle bind off with the right sides facing each other so that the ridge created from the bind off is on the inside of your cardigan. You can slightly see this in the photo on page 2 of the pattern just in case that helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
An update: I just finished my third sweater in this pattern. This time I used the modified three-needle bind off to create a column of “arrows” down the center of the back. It is not completely symmetrical, but I like the way it turned out.
Amazing, Kim! We always love to learn of the ways knitters make pattern adjustments that work best for them! I’m sure it looks wonderful!
Warmly,
Gavriella
Hi! I’m allergic to wool and I see that Blackbird Linen or Cotton Chirp are recommended instead. I need something that is also lightweight. Using each of these, how would the look differ from the wool that it calls for? Thanks so much. Debbie
Hi Debbie,
I’d recommend Cotton Chirp as a great alternative. It is wonderfully soft to knit with and wear and will produce a very similar look to the wool version we have knit here.
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Have you considered creating a crochet version of this cocoon cardigan? I would purchase that in a minute! Thank you.
Hi Seaneen,
Thanks for writing in! While we haven’t considered this idea before, we think it sounds like a wonderful project. I will be sure to share this idea with the team!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi
I have completed both sleeves and have come to shaping the right back neck. I just realized after looking carefully at the photo that I made the left sleeve with the wrong side out. Is there anything I can do beside ripping it out?
Thank you for your help.
Hi Martha,
Thank you for reaching out. I apologize but I’m not sure I completely understand your question here. Do you mean your work has the wrong side facing out? If so, I’d recommend just flipping your work but please let me know if I am misunderstanding and we’d be happy to help get you back on track!
All the best,
Gavriella
When I put the two sleeves together for the back seam, one is with right side up and the other (that I knit incorrectly )has the wrong side up. I don’t see any solution other than to rip out a sleeve if I want the sleeves to look the same.
Basically this is a word to the wise for other knitters to note the right side in the beginning!
Hi Martha,
We are so sorry you’re running into this issue and are eager to assist! Could you please send a photo of your project to us at [email protected] so we can take a look? We would love to brainstorm some ideas for what you could do so you don’t need to unknit your wonderful work! We’re invested in your success and ready to help, so please don’t hesitate to reach out and we’ll keep an eye out for your reply!
Kindly,
Andrea
Hello, I was given the 40 linen quill minis pack as a gift. I wonder if the 40 minis can be used for the cocoon cardigan (medium size) with yarn held single or double. Thank you.
Hi Emi,
Thanks for asking! You could definitely make the size 1 or 2 with the Linen Quill Mini 40 pack. I’d recommend holding the strands triple though for best results. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hello! I have knitted gauge a few times but cannot get correct gauge. I’ve tried size 7 needles and size 8 but my gauge is still 6 stitches per inch.
What should I do? Thank you for your help.
Also I’m using Malabrigo Rios yarn.
Hi Gayl,
Thanks for writing in! We reached out to you via email, but we wanted to respond here too. We’re eager to help you get started on your Cocoon Cardigan. I think the yarn you’re using is suitable for this project, and instead of adjusting the yarn, I suggest adjusting the needle size to achieve the pattern gauge. The gauge for this sweater is 17 stitches per 4″, which works out to 4.25 stitches per inch. Your current gauge of 6 stitches per inch will result in a much smaller sweater than intended, so I recommend swatching again. Since your current gauge is quite different from the pattern gauge, I recommend going up two more needle sizes for your next swatch.
We all knit with different tension…we hold our hands, yarn, and needles how they’re most comfortable for us, and this can create very different results. While the pattern recommends a US 7 needle, this is simply the size our designer used to create the sweater, and should be considered a jumping off point for your swatches. Some people will need to go up several needle sizes and others may need to size down. It’s all ok!
We hope this helps you on your way to a beautiful sweater! Let us know if you have any other questions.
Kindly,
Allison
I have a question about the left body – shape left back neck section.
I am working with the 125 stitches and when working the left back neck short rows, am I only working to the first marker?
When I divided I had 2stitch markers with (4) 42 stitch sections.
I did send an email to customer service as well- thank you!
Is this correct?
Hi Anna!
Thank you for your question! At this point in the pattern, you should have two stitch markers left. The first section, Shape Left Back Neck, is worked between the top edge and the first stitch marker. Each short row stops just short of the last to create a little triangle of fabric to help bring the two sides together and create the back.
We’ve sent you a more detailed response to your email!
Warmly,
Megan
Working on this right now. Have the left back neck piece done. When moving to the shape left back, I have those stitches on a 2nd needle, do I use the yarn that I finished the left neck back with, or start with a new ball of yarn? A little confused here, thanks for your help .
Hi Maureen!
Thank you for your question! You should continue using the same strand of yarn you used to finish the Left Back Neck. No need to start a new ball yet. You won’t cut the yarn until you’ve completed that shaping section and are ready to move on to the Right Sleeve + Body.
If anything else feels unclear as you continue, please feel free to reach out to us at [email protected]. We’re happy to help!
Warmly,
Megan
Boo! I’ve been working the left sleeve for some time now and was really excited to shape the back. It was all going so well, until i counted my stitches. Too many! So I thought I’d just follow the instructions for a larger size. (I have enough yarn). But then it went sideways. Could not figure out how to get out of round knitting and into flat knitting. I will start over and call in for an appointment in a few months🥴. Happy New Year.
Hi Michele!
Thank you for writing in! That’s so frustrating, especially after things were going so well! You’re definitely not alone. When you’re ready, feel free to email us at [email protected] and we’re happy to help you get back on track!
Warmly,
Megan