Julie Hoover For Purl Soho: Olson in Hedgerow
Have you ever made your own favorite cardigan, the one you slip on when you wake up in the morning and also when you are heading out to dinner at night? Julie Hoover’s Olson in Hedgerow is exactly that sweater. Julie’s careful focus on all the details, plus Hedgerow’s complex beauty, make this cardigan your new favorite!
You knit the Olson in three pieces, starting with the back and its 2×2 ribbed hem. Switching to stockinette stitch, you speedily increase for deep dolman sleeves, then shape the neckline and shoulders, creating the roomy silhouette that makes this sweater so easy to wear over anything. Added bonus: You don’t have to go back and knit sleeves later!
You knit the front pieces in much the same way, and then it’s time to put it all together!
After blocking, you use a Modified 3-Needle Bind Off (yes, we have a tutorial!) to create an inside-out seam along the shoulder and top of the sleeve, a lovely detail that also adds structure where you need it. Sew the bottom of the sleeves and side seams together, and it’s time to pick up and knit the neckband and cuffs.
So much thoughtful design requires the right yarn choice, and our Hedgerow is just the one to infuse this cardigan with a wealth of character and vitality. Made in County Donegal, Ireland, Hedgerow comes from one of the county’s last producers of Donegal yarns. Sprinkled with the colorful bits (“burrs” or “nebs”) that are spun into the fiber, every stitch of this yarn is a joy!
For a softer feel than traditional Irish wool, Hedgerow is 93% merino wool, 3.5% cashmere, and 3.5% mulberry silk. Its two loosely spun plies knit into a fabric full of rugged beauty that celebrates the aesthetic and integrity of time-honored Irish wool tweeds.
Featuring a stunning array of neutrals and vibrant pops of color (such as this captivating Persimmon Red), Hedgerow‘s palette of 18 colors is sure to have the one that, in the end, will make this cardigan your favorite!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed for Purl Soho by Julie Hoover. Currently based in Ann Arbor, Michigan, Julie Hoover designs knitwear and makes yarn, for both her own personal label and others. Her work reflects a lifelong passion for clothing and textiles, and her view that knitting is a beautiful way of creating timeless fashion, a thoughtful mix of quality and creativity, intention and care.
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Materials
- 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) (9, 9, 10, 10) skeins of Purl Soho’s Hedgerow, 93% merino, 3.5% cashmere, and 3.5% mulberry silk. Each skein of this worsted/aran weight yarn is 243 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1460 (1550, 1680, 1770, 1920) (2010, 2170, 2275, 2415) yards required. We used the color Persimmon Red.
- US 6 (4 mm), 32- or 40-inch circular needles
- US 7 (4.5 mm), 24- or 32-inch circular needles
- A set of US 6 double pointed needles
- A stitch marker
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- An Olson Pattern PDF
GAUGE
18 stitches and 27 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on larger needles, after blocking
SIZES
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
40¾ (44½, 47¾, 51½, 55) (58¾, 62½, 65¾, 69½)
To fit actual chest circumference of 30–32 (34–36, 38–40, 42–44, 46–48) (50–52, 54–56, 58–60, 62–64) inches with 7–10 inches of ease
- Finished Midriff Circumference: 40¾ (44½, 47¾, 51½, 55) (58¾, 62½, 65¾, 69½) inches, with front bands overlapping
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Center Back: 28 (28¼, 29¼, 29½, 30¾) (31, 32, 32¼, 33¼) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Center Front: 25¼ (25½, 26¼, 26½, 28) (28¼, 29¼, 29½, 30¼) inches
- Finished Length from Cuff to Underarm: 14 inches
Sample: The cardigan shown here is size 40¾ inches, worn with 8 inches of ease.
PATTERN
The Olson Pattern is available as a PDF download only.
Learn About Hedgerow + All Our Beautiful Yarns
Our Hedgerow yarn makes this project extra special! Created in County Donegal with 93% merino wool, 3.5% cashmere, and 3.5% mulberry silk, Hedgerow has a softer hand feel than strictly traditional Irish wool, while still celebrating the aesthetic and integrity of Donegal tweeds. A classic worsted/aran-weight yarn, Hedgerow brings joy to every stitch!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our collection of (mostly free!) Hedgerow knitting patterns and cast on!
More Worsted/ Aran-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of worsted/aran-weight yarn (What does worsted-weight yarn mean, really? Our guide to worsted-weight yarn will answer your questions and more!)
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop merino wool yarn
- Shop cashmere yarn (What makes cashmere so special? Learn all about this amazing fiber in our guide to cashmere yarn!)
- Shop silk yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 45 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 1000’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Is there a cotton yard you could suggest for this pattern? I’m allergic to wool
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out, and you can absolutely use a cotton yarn for this project! I’d recommend using Serif, which is 100% cotton and has a delightful nubbly texture. As always though, we recommend knitting a gauge swatch before casting on your project, especially when you are substituting yarns. You may need to size up or down your needles in order to get the correct gauge!
All the best,
Lili
I love this cardigan pattern!! Can you suggest another Purl Soho yarn that would work well for this? Although the Hedgerow colors are really lovely (those bright colors!!!), unfortunately I don’t like tweed. Thank you!
Hi Kathy,
This cardigan would also be fantastic in Yonder! Yonder is a mix of highland wool and alpaca, so it’ll be warm and cozy for a cardigan and have a nice drape as well. I’d just recommend knitting up a gauge swatch before beginning to ensure you choose the best needle size!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you!
I would love to knit this in a wool, but I’m very sensitive to scratchiness. Can you recommend a softer wool or wool blend (but not superwash/treated) that could be a good substitute for Hedgerow on this cardigan?
Thank you so much,
Susan
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! I think you’d love knitting this cardigan in Knitting Yarn. This yarn is 100% merino wool, and it has a smoother spin than Hedgerow, making it softer to the touch. And it’s a similar weight, so you’ll be able to achieve the gauge of the pattern (though you may need to size up or down your needles). Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I have the original Olson pattern, which was written for a different yarn. Can I use that same pattern with the Hedgerow or has the gauge/measurement changed enough that I’d need to buy the pattern again? Thanks!
Hi Janie,
The gauge is the same between the two versions, but the new version has an extra size! If you’d like to knit from the version of the pattern with this size, all you’ll need to do is redownload it from your Purl Soho account. That’ll provide you with the newest version!
All the best,
Lili
Hello
Question:
I love this pattern and have downloaded it already.
Instead of the longer curved back section, can I knit it straight across and skip the stitch wrap section. I am quite short and I think it will just look very long as written. I would like the entire length to be the same as indicated for the sides.
Will it look OK and should I be aware of any downside to this alteration in the pattern ?
Thank you for your advise.
Barbara
Hi Barbara,
We are so excited you will be starting on the Olson cardigan! You can skip the short rows in the SHAPE HEM section of the pattern for the main fabric to bring up the back of your cardigan. I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi just purchased the Olson pattern. I note the previous version was a dk yarn. Would I be able to use a dk yarn for the current version? Would I need to change anything?
Hi Debbie,
You can indeed use a DK weight yarn for this pattern! We always recommend doing a gauge swatch when using an alternative yarn to ensure you will get the correct sizing. Since this pattern is written very closely to the original, you shouldn’t have a problem meeting gauge when swatching and you should be able to follow the instruction without an issue.
I hope this answers your questions but please feel free to let me know!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hello,
I plan to make this sweater in either hedgerow or Yonder. Which yarn is the softest? I worry hedgerow is a bit scratchy.
Thanks!
Hi Cindy,
Thank you for your question! Yonder is definitely the softer option of the two when compared. One thing to keep in mind is that Yonder is a heavier weight than what is written into the pattern and leans closer to an aran weight. We always recommend knitting a gauge swatch before you begin to make sure you are able to get the same gauge as the pattern. I would recommend checking out Cashmere Merino Bloom, Season Alpaca or Partridge as great alternatives for this pattern’s suggested yarn.
I hope this helps but please feel free to let us know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Regarding pattern instructions: RLI and LLI.
I’m confused on how to do the right and left lifted increases. Pattern says to lift, knit then slip. However when I look at utube, it says to lift, knit then knit stitch, not just slip it. Please explain. Is pattern correct or is utube
I’ve never done either way. Years ago I lifted the bar between stitches not from side of stitch (leg)
Hi Melissa,
Thank you for writing in! The way you work these stitches can vary depending on the pattern you are making. This might be why you are getting different ideas of how this is done. We recommend checking out our handy video of RLI and LLI here for a better visual on how to work these stitches. I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Thank you. Your link did not work but found it by using search.
The demo explained it better than the directions in pattern.
Hi Melissa,
I apologize about the link not working properly but we are very happy to hear you found the demo helpful!
hi,
I’m in the middle of this project (back is done, left front is in process) and suddenly I’m having a major doubts about how I’m counting rows. When, for instance, the directions say ‘continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat the Left Cuff Increase Row every 8th row 3 more times’ (for my size) do I count the purl row as a row, or only the right side rows? So far I’m only counting the 8th RIGHT SIDE row (and NOT counting the purl rows) thanks for your fast response,
Diane
Hi Diane,
Thank you for writing in! You should indeed be counting every row you are working. So if your instructions have you knit one row, and purling the next, you should count these as two rows total. If you have counted every right side row as one row, then you actually can double that number to get back on track. For example, if you have worked 8 right side rows, you will count this as having worked 16 rows instead of 8. I hope this helps but please let me know if there is anything else we can do to help you get back on track!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi there,
I am loving this pattern and yarn – using golden meadow hedgerow – and just finished the “shape dolman sleeves portion” of the back. For the size I’m making, it should measure 15″ from hem, but mine measures about 14.25.” I’m worried the sleeves will end up in the wrong place more than I’m worried about overall length.
Is there anyway I can remedy this (if indeed an issue of sleeve placement) without unraveling? Can I add extra rows while increasing stitch count to maintain the curved shape? Can I work extra rows into the next “shape cuffs” section?
Appreciate any advice! I’m still a novice and learning how to troubleshoot…
Hi Hannah,
Thanks for writing in, and I want to first assure you that you’re on the right track! It sounds as though your row gauge is slightly small, which caused the length to come out on the short side. But 3/4s of an inch is a very small distance, and this yarn is very stretchy, so you’ll be able to easily stretch it into shape when you block all the panels before seaming them together. No need to add any extra rows or unravel anything!
All the best,
Lili
How would this pattern be for a newer knitter?
Hi Kimee,
This pattern might be a bit more advanced for a new knitter but we’d love to help you along the way if you have any questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi,
I am ready to cast on for this beautiful pattern but I am confused about the cast on. I usually do a long tail cast on, so that’s not the problem. It says, cast on 2 sts, * cast on 2 sts, repeat….
I usually just cast on the total number of stitches for my size. Am I reading this incorrectly?
Many thanks.
Hi Winnie,
In this section you are alternating knit and purl cast on stitches. So you will indeed cast on the total number needed but you will alternate the way those stitches are orientated to be either knits or purls. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gavriella
i haven’t purchased this pattern yet and i love the look, i’m just wondering if you have to pick up stitches to create the front and neck ribbing, i’m terrible at picking up stitches. thank you
Hi Cheryl,
Thank you for writing in! I’m afraid this pattern does require you to pick up stitches on both the neckband and cuffs. We would always be more than happy to assist though!
All the best,
Gavriella
For the Shape Cuff Edges, my size says to “repeat cuff increase Row every 10th row 0 times, then every 8th row 4 times…. ” Does this mean I do stockinette stitch for 10 rows without increase, then 8 more rows with an increases on every 8th row 4 times? Thanks for your help.
Hi Deborah,
That is exactly correct! Please let us know if you have any questions along the way!
All the best,
Gavriella
Diane Gauthier and Deborah Ellis asked exactly the two questions I needed help with. Lesson 1: always read all the submissions from others. Lesson 2: Purl Soho has the absolute BEST comments section.
Thank you so much!
I have a quick question under section SHAPE DOLMAN SLEEVES
when we use backward loop method to cast on stitches do we continue with the slip first stitch to maintain the selvage? I would think so, but am not sure the back ward cast on stitches will maintain the alignment.
Hope that makes sense.
ANd THANK YOU!!
Hi Patty,
Yes, you will still be maintaining the selvage edge! It’s a bit tricky to do with the newly-cast-on stitches, but I find it helps to just keep a good grip on the yarn as you slip the stitch and work the next stitch to make sure that first stitch doesn’t fall apart.
All the best,
Lili
Are you doing the selvage slip stitch first, then adding stitches by backward loop increase, or doing increase then the selvage slip stitch. Sorry trying my first sweater.
Hi Cindi,
Thanks for your question! You will only work the selvage edges when you are not adding stitches to the beginning of the row. I hope this helps and happy making!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hello! I am at LEFT SHOULDER & NECKLINE, where it says “short row 1 (right side): K40, place previous 103 stitches onto stitch holders. When I knit 40 and go back from there to put on scrap yarn, I only have 97 stitches, including the 40 that I last knit. I have a total of 224 stitches, which is correct. Not understanding this. I also have a total of 20 w&t. The last one being the one that was purled on the last short row of previous section. HELP!! This is driving me nuts. I counted back from the left side 103 + 18 bind off for neckline, and to me, logically, I needed to K 46 on the beginning short row, in order to place 103 stitches on hold. Does any of this make sense?
Hi Mary,
Thanks for writing in! It sounds like you may not have completed all the repeats of the short rows in SHAPE SHOULDERS yet. You should have 21 wrapped stitches on the right side of the garment, and the final wrapped stitch on that side should be on the 63rd stitch from the right edge. You probably just need to work one more Short Row 4 and one more Short Row 3 to get to that spot! Once you’re there, you’ll be able to continue the pattern with the correct stitch counts.
All the best,
Lili
I have similar question as above. I am making smallest size and am also at left shoulder and neckline short row 1. When I complete the knit 39 stitches, it says to place previous 96 st onto holder. I only have 93 previous stitches and believe me I have been marking each short row one off religiously. I do have the correct total number of stitches.
Please advise, I am excited to move on. Not sure what to do at this point.
thanks so much; am very grateful we have this space to get advice
I do have 18 wrap and turns on each side which is correct. I was thinking maybe just knit 42 on first short row instead of 39? There will have to be adjustment on other side too. Not sure what to do. Ok thank you very much.
thank goodness I have another project to distract me!
patty
sincerely patty
Hi Patty,
Happy to help out! For the size you’re making (size 40 3/4), you should actually end up with a total of 19 wrapped stitches on the right side of the garment. Since you have only 18 at this point, you just need to work two more short rows to get to the correct spot to continue! Just repeat Short Row 4 and Short Row 3 once more, and you’ll be all set.
All the best,
Lili
thanks Lili!!
Happy Thanksgiving!
I appreciate you!
PS i was thinking about doing this with 3 colors and now know the back takes 3 skeins, maybe a bit more, haven’t obviously got to shoulders yet
I’m confused when I get to the Shape Shoulder and Neckline section. It says to K41, then place the previous 113 stitches onto stitch holders for right shoulder. But there are only 89 previous stitches before I get to the edge. Where did I go wrong?
Hi Bev,
Thanks for writing in! It sounds like you haven’t completed all the repeats of Short Rows 3 and 4 yet. Can you let me know how many times you’ve worked these rows so far?
All the best,
Lili
At the end of the Shape Cuff Edges section, I was supposed to have 248 stitches and I did. Next was the Shape Shoulders section with all the wrp-t — which, if I’m doing them right, do not add any more stitches. So when I get to the Left Shoulder and Neckline section, I still have 248 stitches. But the first instruction in that section tells me to K41, put previous 113 on stitch holder for right shoulder, bind off 22, K to 3 before the previous wrap-t so 113 remain for the left shoulder. But 41+113+22+114=289 and I only have 248. Are the wrap-t rows supposed to add stitches? (I did short rows 1-4, repeated short rows 3 and 4 21 times, then did short row 3 one more time.)
Hi Bev,
Thanks for the additional info! After completing your final Short Row 3, your needle tips and working yarn should be 72 stitches from the right edge of the panel (with the right side of the work facing you). Beginning at this point, when you knit 41 stitches, you will then be 113 stitches from the right edge of the panel. Those are the 113 stitches you put on hold! Here’s how the stitch count math works out: 113 stitches for right shoulder + 22 bound-off stitches + 113 stitches for left shoulder = 248 total stitches.
All the best,
Lili
Ok, that math makes sense now. But I still have less than 113 stitches to place on the holder so I’ve been trying to figure out where I went wrong in the short rows. I think I may have it. For short tow 3, it said to knit/purl to 3 before the previous wrap-t. I’m using the beautiful Sumac Red Hedgerow colour, which is verrrry dark so I couldn’t really see the wrapped stitches. There is a tiny gap so I assumed that was the wrapped stitch. But I took a closer look under a brighter light and I think I was going to 4 before the previous wrap-t (so the tiny gap is actually 1 before the wrapped stitch). Could that be what’s throwing me off?
Hi Bev,
Would you mind sharing a photo of your work with us directly? You can email it to us at [email protected]. It will be very helpful if you can take a close-up shot of your live stitches, stretching the knit fabric slightly so that I can see where the gaps created by the wrapped stitches are located!
All the best,
Lili
I am at the shape shoulder section of the back. I have previous done wrap and turn for short rows. The directions go back and forth to a number of stitches before the prior wrap. You end the section with a short row three Is there a row where the wraps get picked up?
I am using Hedgerow and love the fabric it is creating.
Hi Diane,
So glad that you love Hedgerow! You’ll work the wrapped stitches with their wraps on Short Row 15 for the left side and on Short Row 13 for the right side.
All the best,
Lili
Solved my previous problems with your help — thanks. I frogged and re-did a bunch and now I just finished the Left Shoulder and Neckline section where it says to place stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn. It doesn’t say to cut your yarn, but should I? The next step is the beginning of the Right Shoulder and Neckline section where it says to return the on-hold right shoulder stitches to needles and “rejoin yarn.” Does that just mean start knitting with a new working yarn? If so, should I continue with the yarn cut when the left shoulder stitches were put on a holder, or maybe just start from a new skein?
You’re very welcome, Bev! And thanks for bringing this to our attention–I believe you’re correct that you’ll need to cut the yarn before beginning the right shoulder + neckline, and I’ve reached out to our design team to double check! I’ll get back to you as soon as I hear from them.
All the best,
Lili
Confirming that there should be a “Cut yarn” instruction at this spot, and we’ll get that added to the pattern PDF!
All the best,
Lili
I have a question about picking up stitches for this sweater. Instructions say “begin at Right Front Hem edge and pick up
and knit 118 (121, 126, 129, 130)”. Should I be picking up 2 out of 3 stitches, or 3 out of 4? With all of the short rows involved, I REALLY don’t want to mess up this final (!!) part. I am SO close and it looks SO great!
Hi Madeline,
Thanks for writing in! You’ll want to pick up these stitches as evenly as possible, which may not end up quite being a perfect ratio like 2 to 3 or 3 to 4. I would recommend placing a few removable stitch markers in the edge you’re picking up from to help guide you along the way. If you’re making the size that requires picking up 130 stitches for example, you could use stitch markers to divide the edge into 13 equal sections and pick up 10 stitches within each.
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
When it says purl to last 8, wrp-t, does it mean you wrp-t all stitches remaining (8)?
Thanks!
Hi Amalia,
Thanks for writing in! Nope, you’ll just work the wrap + turn on the stitch you’ve purled up to. After you’ve completed the wrap + turn, you’ll have the other side of your work facing you (since you’ve turned it), ready to knit the following row!
All the best,
Lili
I’ve just started this sweater and I’m a little confused on the first few rows of the pattern working the short rows. It mentions purpling rows 3 AND 4 and 5and 6? Wouldn’t that mean to purl on a knit row? I’ve done wrap and turn before but never on a sweater. Thanks for the help
Hi Cynthia,
Thanks for bringing that to our attention! I think there’s a small typo in this pattern and the “and 4” is incorrect. I’ve passed this along to our design team, and they’ll update the pattern if they agree!
All the best,
Lili
Hi again, Cynthia,
Just wanted to let you know that you’re correct this should just say “Short Row 3”! Our design team will update the pattern as soon as possible, and you’ll be able to access the new version by re-downloading it from your Purl Soho account.
All the best,
Lili
I am really enjoying this pattern. I am currently on the Left Front and on the section: Shape Sleeve, Neckline, Cuff Edge + Shoulder. I am confused about the direction at the end of Shape Neckline that says: beginning on the next R-side row after last Sleeve cast-on row, shape cuff edge as follows…
What is the last Sleeve cast-on row? Would it be the last row in the 16 sets at beginning of next R-side row on the Shape Sleeve portion?
Thank you!
Hi Carolina,
I’m so glad you’re enjoying this pattern, and I’m happy to answer your question! You’re correct, the last sleeve cast-on row is the one where you cast on 16 stitches. So you would work a wrong side row after that, and then on the subsequent right side row, that’s when you begin the Shape Cuff Edge instructions. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
On the shape dolman sleeves it has you increasing using backward loop method. Which needle are you to cast them on? Are they to be knit in the row they are cast on or the next row? Some knitters are using cable cast on which you have it knit in same row as you are putting them on left needle, but backward loop method casts on the right needle so doesn’t knit until next row. Hope this makes sense. I am new to sweaters.
Hi Cindi,
Great question! You will cast these stitches onto the left needle, no matter what cast-on method you use. If you prefer doing the backwards loop cast-on so that the stitches go onto your right needle, then you can briefly turn your work, cast on the new stitches, and then turn your work back to the correct side to begin the row!
All the best,
Lili
On the neckband, I have a question following the [p2k2] 40 times, then p2k1 before the first wrp-t (which I assume should bring me 163 stitches from the first p2k2?). On row 2 right side, it instructs to follow the pattern for 28 stitches then wrp-t. Is that 28 individual stitches or 28 pairs of stitches ?
When I finished the short rows, my neckband did not end up widened in the middle, it is too far to the right by about 28 stitches so it seems like the right side rows should have been 56 stitches before the wrp-t, not 28. Could you please clarify ?
Thank you!
Caroline
Hi Caroline,
Happy to answer your questions about this part of the pattern!
1. On Short Row 2, you’ll knit 28 individual stitches for size 47 3/4!
2. Hmmmm, it sounds like you got off-center somehow, but I’m not sure exactly where…. For your size, there should be 300 Neckband stitches in total, so 150 would be the halfway point, at the center back of the neck. On Short Row 1, you work 164 stitches and then work the wrp-t. That’s 14 stitches past the halfway point, so when you work 28 stitches on Short Row 2 before working the wrp-t, you’ll end up 14 stitches past the halfway point on the other side! Perhaps you worked 28 pairs of stitches on Short Row 2 instead of 28 individual stitches?
Let me know if that helps, and I’m happy to answer any other questions you have!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lili! This is very helpful and confirms the error I made of adding the 7 stitches on rows 3-6 then 5 stitches on rows 7-24 on the even roughs only, as in row 2. That was a silly mistake that I should have caught right away, although won’t make that one again!
I’ve already redone the neckband and it now looks as it should.
Thank you!
You’re very welcome! So glad you’re back on track now 🙂
All the best,
Lili