Pom Pom Socklets In New Yarn + Sizes
All party and no pomp, our Pom Pom Socklets are happy to walk a mile in your shoes!
To knit these cuties, you follow a basic cuff-down sock pattern, getting right to the action of turning the heel after just a few rounds of ribbing and stockinette for the ankle. A hop, skip, and a jump and it’s time for those colorful little pom poms that add panache but also prevent your socks from slipping down inside your shoes… plucky, pretty, and practical, too!
We knit up these socklets in our hand-dyed Posy, a super soft machine washable blend of 75% superwash merino, 15% cashmere, and 10% nylon. Posy’s ten new colors are an earthy rainbow that adds depth and complexity to our existing palette, so mix and match to your heart’s content!
For adult sizes, you’ll need just one skein of your contrast color and two of the main, and for toddler and kid sizes, just one of each. If it’s the little things in life that bring happiness, our Pom Pom Socklets are just the little thing to put some spring in your step this spring!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoPomPomSocklets and #PurlSohoPosy. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Purl Soho’s Posy, 75% superwash merino, 15% cashmere, and 10% nylon. Each skein is approximately 159 yards/ 50 grams.
- Main Color (MC): 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) skein(s); approximately 110 (159, 210, 260, 315) yards required
- Contrast Color (CC): 1 skein; approximately 82 (85, 87, 89, 91) yards required
- A set of US 2 (3 mm) double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Purl Soho’s Pom Pom Maker Set, size Small + Large
For our socks, we used…
- Toddler size: MC, Winter Sky, CC, Blue Bayou
- Kid size: MC, Pink Nectar, CC, Pink Smoke
- Adult Small size: MC, Tawny Gold, CC, Amber Orange
GAUGE
32 stitches and 40 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
SIZES
Toddler (Kid, Adult Small, Adult Medium, Adult Large)
- Finished Foot Circumference: 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) inches unstretched, comfortably stretching 1-2 inches
- Foot Length: Adjustable
Samples: We made the Toddler, Kid, and Adult Small sizes.
PATTERN
CUFF
With Contrast Color (CC), cast on 48 (56, 64, 72, 80) stitches and divide among 3 double pointed needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place unique marker for end of round and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Round 1: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 five more times.
Change to Main Color (MC) and knit 3 rounds even.
HEEL FLAP
Row 1 (right side): K12 (14, 16, 18, 20) and turn so purl side of work is facing you.
Row 2 (wrong side): P24 (28, 32, 36, 40), removing marker as you come to it.
Note: These 24 (28, 32, 36, 40) stitches are the beginning of the Heel Flap. In this section, you will work back and forth on just these stitches.
Arrange Heel Flap stitches on one needle, and place remaining 24 (28, 32, 36, 40) instep stitches on hold on two other needles, a stitch holder, or scrap yarn. Continue working back and forth in rows.
Row 3: *Slip 1 purlwise, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4: Slip 1 purlwise, purl to end of row.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 eleven (13, 15, 17, 19) more times, until piece measures approximately 3½ (4, 4¼, 4¾, 5) inches from cast-on edge.
TURN HEEL
Row 1 (right side): K13 (15, 17, 19, 21), slip slip knit (ssk), k1, turn work. [23 (27, 31, 35, 39) Heel Flap stitches remain]
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise, p3, purl 2 together (p2tog), p1, turn work. [22 (26, 30, 34, 38) Heel Flap stitches remain]
Row 3: Slip 1 purlwise, knit to 1 stitch before gap, ssk (with stitch before and stitch after gap), k1, turn work. [1 stitch decreased]
Row 4: Slip 1 purlwise, purl to 1 stitch before gap, p2tog (with stitch before and stitch after gap), p1, turn work. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 three (4, 5, 6, 7) more times. [14 (16, 18, 20, 22) Heel Flap stitches remain]
GUSSET
NOTE: To learn how to pick up and knit, visit our tutorial and scroll down to the Along A Vertical Edge: Stockinette Stitch section.
Set-Up Round (right side): K14 (16, 18, 20, 22), with right side facing you, pick up and knit 13 (15, 17, 19, 21) stitches along edge of Heel Flap, place marker (pm), knit 24 (28, 32, 36, 40) on-hold instep stitches, pm, with right side facing you, pick up and knit 13 (15, 17, 19, 21) stitches along second edge of Heel Flap, place unique marker for end of round. [64 (74, 84, 94, 104) stitches]
Round 1: Knit to 2 stitches before first marker, knit 2 together (k2tog), slip marker (sm), knit to next marker, sm, ssk, knit to end of round. [2 stitches decreased]
Round 2: Knit to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 seven (8, 9, 10, 11) more times. [48 (56, 64, 72, 80) stitches remain]
Next Round: Remove marker at end of round, knit to next marker and replace it with unique marker for new end of round.
FOOT
Work in stockinette stitch until Foot measures 1½ (1¾, 2, 2½, 2¾) inches less than desired finished length, measuring from back of heel. Here are final Foot lengths for most sizes.
TODDLER SIZES
- US size 3 shoe (European 18) = 4⅜ inches
- US size 6 shoe (21) = 5¼ inches
- US size 9 shoe (26) = 6¼ inches
- US size 11 shoe (28) = 6⅞ inches
- US size 121/2 shoe (31) = 7¼ inches
- US size 131/2 shoe (32) = 7½ inches
- US size 1Y shoe (32) = 7⅝ inches
KID SIZES
- US size 2Y shoe (European 34) = 8 inches
- US size 3Y shoe (35) = 8⅜ inches
- US size 4Y shoe (36) = 8⅝ inches
- US size 5Y shoe (37) = 9 inches
- US size 6Y shoe (39) = 9¾ inches
WOMEN’S SIZES
- US size 6 shoe (European 37) = 9 inches
- US size 7 shoe (38) = 9¼ inches
- US size 8 shoe (39) = 9⅝ inches
- US size 9 shoe (40) = 10 inches
MEN’S SIZES
- US size 9 shoe (European 42) = 10½ inches
- US size 10 shoe (43) = 10¾ inches
- US size 11 shoe (44) = 11 inches
- US size 12 shoe (45) = 11½ inches
- US size 13 shoe (46) = 11¾ inches
TOE
Round 1: K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before marker, k2tog, k1. [4 stitches decreased]
Round 2: Knit to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 five (6, 7, 8, 9) more times. [24 (28, 32, 36, 40) total stitches remain]
Repeat Round 1 three (4, 5, 6, 7) more times. [12 total stitches remain]
Arrange remaining stitches on two needles, with instep stitches on one needle and sole stitches on the second needle. Graft remaining stitches with Kitchener Stitch.
POM POMS
MAKE POM POM
If you’re using Purl Soho’s Pom Pom Maker Set, use the Small Pom Pom Maker and the 1½ inch Trim Guide to make a pom pom with CC yarn. Follow the basic instructions for a Solid Pom Pom found in our Pom Pom Tutorial.
ATTACH POM POM
Thread each pom pom tail separately through the sock to the inside at the base of the ribbed cuff. Tie the tails into a knot, thread the tails back through the sock and up through the pom pom itself, and trim them flush with the pom pom.
FINISHING
Weave in the ends, and then make another sock.
Gently wet block, flat.
Can these socks be knitted in the round? Thank you.
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out. These socks are already knit in the round! The only sections that are knit flat are HEEL FLAP and TURN HEEL, but this is typical for this type of sock construction. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Is the gauge really as written?
4” over 32 stitches means the heel flap with 36 stitches is more then 4” wide.
Thanks
Hi Val,
Thanks for reaching out. I can confirm that the gauge is correct! The heel flap on these socks wraps all the way around the ankle, distributing the width about the heel. Hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
Is it possible switch this pattern up and use circular needles?
Hi Niki,
Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely use circular needles as long as you use the magic loop technique! That’s a great way to knit items with very small circumferences without using DPNs. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you
Hi
Just starting this project can’t I find any support for question. I been knitting for more then 20 years but just doing blankets for baby’s
Hi Vera,
Thanks for reaching out. I’d be happy to answer any questions you have about this pattern! You can write in on our website, reach out to customerservice@purlsoho.com, or book a 1-On-1 Project Help session. We’re always happy to help!
All the best,
Lili
How can I download this sock pattern
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for reaching out. If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, click on the “PDF” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window. Once your PDF has finished downloading, just click the “Download PDF” button, and it will be saved to your computer! (You can also click the “Print” button if you’d like to print the pattern.)
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for making the pattern available, you might want to double-check the instructions for knitting the gusset, as I think you will find a fatal error… I think the second marker needs to be placed before you pick up and knit those stitches along the second edge of the heel flap.
Hi Beverly,
Thanks for reaching out. I can confirm that the second marker is indeed placed before you pick up and knit those stitches! In total, you will end up with 3 markers on your needles after the GUSSET Set-Up Row. One directly after the first picked-up stitches, one directly before the second set of picker-up stitches, and a unique marker for the end-of-round. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I’ve been knitting the foot section without the end of round marker and now I’m not sure where the round starts. Is it at the middle of the heel – the same place the sock began at the cuff?
Hi Ellen,
Thank you so much for reaching out. You are correct, your beginning of the round marker should be at the center of your heel flap! When you are working your heel flap, the marker gets removed on row 2 and instead you will be working back and forth in rows. The marker won’t be placed again until you are ready to work the set-up round of the gusset section!
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hi Carly. It’s the toe decrease section that has me confused.
Hi Ellen,
Sorry for the confusion! Your end of round marker will be placed in the Set-Up Round of the Gusset earlier in the construction of your sock. So you will knit K14 (16, 18, 20, 22), with right side facing you, pick up and knit 13 (15, 17, 19, 21) stitches along edge of Heel Flap, and then place marker. This marker becomes your end of round marker right before beginning the Foot section, and will be your end of round for the rest of the pattern! Since you have been knitting without a marker, you can find this spot by following the column of stitches up from the corner of the gusset.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly
Sorry, it’s me again. I understand where you say the beginning of the round is, but in the TOE Round 1 instructions you knit for a while before you get to the instruction to sm (slip marker). Where is this marker? Is there a beginning of round marker and another marker?
Hi Ellen,
Thanks for checking in about this! Expanding on Carly’s earlier reply, there are a total of 3 stitch markers placed on the GUSSET Set-Up Round: 1 end-of-round marker, and 2 other markers that you used to mark where to work the decreases in this section. At the end of the GUSSET section, the pattern instructs you to “Remove marker at end of round, knit to next marker and replace it with unique marker for new end of round.” Thus, one of the 2 decrease markers becomes your new end-of-round marker, and the other one also remains. These two markers are the ones referenced in TOE Round 1! Since you’ll need to replace these markers before beginning the TOE, you can follow the column of stitches up from the corner of each gusset to determine where they should be.
All the best,
Lili
The heel sl 1 purlwise is yarn in front or behind it seems with my holding yarn in back looks like weird
Hi Joyce,
Thanks for reaching out with your question. The slipped stitches should be worked purl-wise and with the yarn held in back, so it sounds like you are doing this step correctly! The slipped stitches create a stronger and denser fabric for the heel, where the most friction on our soocks happens.
Please let us know if you have any other questions, we’d be happy to help!
All the best,
Carly