Your basket is empty.
Continue Shopping
Block Party Socks
Our Block Party Socks bring the party right down to your toes! Knit with our new Daily Wool Sport, a very soft and hardworking yarn made to be worn on repeat, these fun color-block socks are an open invitation to play.
Everyone will get a great fit from these crew-length socks, with 4 sizes to choose from, an adjustable foot length, and springy 3×1 ribbing that hugs every contour of calves, ankles, and insteps.
You knit the Block Party Socks from the top down, the steady rhythm of the ribbing carrying you through a color remix partway down the leg. Easy to knit and thoughtfully designed, every detail contributes to an effortless, clean finishâfrom cleverly camouflaged gusset shaping to a heel flap and instep that maintain the ribbing without missing a beat.
With a joyful bounce to its step, Daily Wool Sport is 100% incredibly soft superwash wool, which yes, means you can machine wash and dry it! And its slender sport weight and tidy 4-ply spin make super comfy socks that knit up at a lively pace without feeling bulky.
Choose a pair of colors from a palette of 24 heathered shades and let them mix and mingle. Youâll need a skein or two of your main color, plus just a little bit of your contrast color. Depending on the size you make, you might have enough yarn left over to make another pair in reverse!
Find a reason to celebrate and cast on for your own Block Party Socks in Daily Wool Sport, a cheerful pick-me-up youâll reach for day after day!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, youâll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 55 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Sohoâs online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Pattern designed and written by Purl Soho designer, Gianna Mueller. See even more of Giannaâs work on her Instagram!
Story written by Andrea Lotz for Purl Soho.
Want to print this pattern? On desktop, find the âprintâ icon in the right margin, and on mobile, scroll to the end of the pattern for it. Use the on-screen instructions to remove anything you don’t want to print!
Materials
- Purl Sohoâs Daily Wool Sport, 100% superwash wool yarn. Each skein of this sport-weight yarn is 300 yards/ 100 grams.
- Main Color (MC): 1 (1, 1, 1â2) skein(s); approximately 85â120 (170â195, 230â250, 295â320) total yards required. We used Teal Storm for one pair of socks and Red Violet for the other.
- Contrast Color (CC): 1 skein; approximately 35 (55, 75, 90) total yards required. We used True Teal with Teal Storm and Ube Purple with Red Violet.
- US 2 (3 mm), 32-inch circular knitting needles for Magic Loop OR a set of US 2 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
GAUGE
36 stitches and 40 rounds = 4 inches in 3×1 rib stitch
28 stitches and 42 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
SIZES
Little Kid (Big Kid, Adult Small/Medium, Adult Medium/Large)
- Finished Foot Circumference: 4 (5, 6, 7Âź) inches, comfortably stretching 2 inches
- Finished Leg Length, from Top of Heel: 5 (7, 8, 8) inches
- Finished Foot Length: Adjustable
Samples: We knit the Adult Small/Medium to fit a womenâs US size 7.5.
NOTES
STITCH MULTIPLE
This stitch pattern works over a multiple of 4 stitches.
DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES OR MAGIC LOOP
This pattern includes instructions for working on either double pointed needles or long circular needles, using the Magic Loop method. We have tutorials for both techniques, so just pick the approach you prefer!
To help decide, visit our How To Knit With Double Pointed Needles Tutorial and our Magic Loop Tutorial.
SLIP STITCHES
On right-side rows: Slip stitches purlwise with yarn in back (wyib).
On wrong-side rows: Slip stitches purlwise with yarn in front (wyif).
PATTERN
LEG
With Contrast Color (CC), loosely cast 32 (40, 48, 56) stitches onto needles, dividing the stitches
among 4 double pointed needles or arranging them on circular needles for Magic Loop (see Notes). We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place unique marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Round 1: *K3, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until Leg measures 2½ (3½, 4, 4) inches from cast-on edge.
Cut CC.
Join Main Color (MC).
Repeat Round 1 until Leg measures 5 (7, 8, 8) inches from cast-on edge.
HEEL
WORK HEEL FLAP
Set-Up Row 1 (right side): [K3, p1] 2 (3, 3, 4) times, turn work so wrong side is facing you.
Set-Up Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 (see Special Instructions), [p3, k1] 4 (5, 6, 7) times, removing end-of-round marker as you come to it; turn work so right side is facing you.
Arrange stitches so 17 (21, 25, 29) Heel stitches are on one needle, then working over just these stitchesâŚ
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 (see Special Instructions), *k3, p1, repeat from * to last 4 Heel stitches, k4.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1, *p3, k1, repeat from * to last 4 Heel stitches, p4.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 ten (12, 14, 16) more times.
TURN HEEL
NOTE: The âgapâ we refer to in this section is the visible space between the stitches caused by having turned the work at that point in the previous row.
Still just working the Heel stitchesââŚ
Row 1 (right side): K1, knit 2 together (k2tog), k7 (9, 11, 13), slip slip knit (ssk), k1, turn work so wrong side is facing you. [15 (19, 23, 27) Heel stitches remain]
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1, p3, purl 2 together (p2tog), p1, turn work. [14 (18, 22, 26) Heel stitches remain]
Row 3: Slip 1, knit to 1 stitch before gap, ssk (with stitch before and stitch after gap), k1, turn work. [1 stitch decreased]
Row 4: Slip 1, purl to 1 stitch before gap, p2tog (with stitch before and stitch after gap), p1, turn work. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 one (2, 3, 4) more time(s). [10 (12, 14, 16) Heel stitches remain]
Next Row (right side): K1, make 1 right (m1R), knit to end of Heel stitches. Do not turn work. [11 (13, 15, 17) Heel stitches]
GUSSET
NOTE: To learn how to pick up and knit, visit our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial and scroll down to the Along A Vertical Edge: Stockinette Stitch section.
Pick-Up Round (right side): Pick up and knit 12 (14, 16, 18) stitches along Heel Flap selvage, place marker (pm); working across on-hold instep stitches, [k3, p1] 3 (4, 5, 6) times, k3, pm; pick up and knit 12 (14, 16, 18) stitches along other selvage of Heel Flap; working across Heel stitches, k6 (7, 8, 9) and place unique marker for new end of round at approximate center of sole. [50 (60, 70, 80) total stitches: 15 (19, 23, 27) instep stitches; 35 (41, 47, 53) stitches for Gussets and sole]
Round 1: Knit to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker (sm), [k3, p1] 3 (4, 5, 6) times, k3, sm, slip slip purl (ssp), knit to end of round. [2 stitches decreased]
Round 2: Knit to one stitch before next marker, p1, sm, [k3, p1] 3 (4, 5, 6) times, k3, sm, p1, knit to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 eight (9, 10, 11) more times, ending with Round 2. [32 (40, 48, 56) stitches remain: 15 (19, 23, 27) instep stitches; 17 (21, 25, 29) sole stitches]
FOOT
Round 1: Knit to one stitch before next marker, p1, sm, [k3, p1] 3 (4, 5, 6) times, k3, sm, p1, knit to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until Foot measures 1 (1Ÿ, 1½, 1ž) inches less than desired final length, measuring from back of Heel.
Here are final Foot lengths for most sizes (remember to end 1 [1Âź, 1½, 1ž] inches shorter than these lengths)âŚ
SMALL KID SIZES
- US size 3 shoe (European 18) = 4â inches
- US size 6 shoe (21) = 5Âź inches
- US size 9 shoe (26) = 6Âź inches
- US size 10C shoe (27) = 6½ inches
- US size 11C shoe (29) = 7 inches
- US size 13C shoe (31) = 7½ inches
BIG KID SIZES
- US size 1Y shoe (European 32) = 7ž inches
- US size 2Y shoe (33) = 8 inches
- US size 3Y shoe (34) = 8½ inches
- US size 4Y shoe (36) = 8ž inches
- US size 5Y shoe (37) = 9 inches
- US size 6Y shoe (39) = 9ž inches
WOMENâS SIZES
- US size 6 shoe (European 37) = 9 inches
- US size 7 shoe (38) = 9Âź inches
- US size 8 shoe (39) = 9â inches
- US size 9 shoe (40) = 10 inches
- US size 10 shoe (41) = 10â inches
MENâS SIZES
- US size 9 shoe (European 42) = 10½ inches
- US size 10 shoe (43) = 10ž inches
- US size 11 shoe (44) = 11 inches
- US size 12 shoe (45) = 11½ inches
- US size 13 shoe (46) = 11ž inches
TOE
Round 1: Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog, sm, k1, ssk, knit to end of round. [4 stitches decreased]
Round 2: Knit to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 four (5, 6, 7) more times. [12 (16, 20, 24) stitches remain]
Repeat Round 1 one more time. [8 (12, 16, 20) stitches remain]
Partial Round: [Knit to next marker, remove marker] 2 times, k1.
Arrange remaining stitches on two needles, with next 4 (6, 8, 10) stitches on one needle and last next 4 (6, 8, 10) stitches on second needle.
Cut yarn, leaving a 10-inch tail.
FINISHING
NOTE: For help with Kitchener Stitch, please visit our Kitchener Stitch Tutorial!
Hold needles parallel to each other and use the 10-inch tail threaded onto a tapestry needle and Kitchener Stitch to close Toe.
Weave in ends, and then make another sock!
Block both socks by soaking them in soapy room temperature water, then rinse and squeeze out excess water and lay flat to dry. To wash socks after you wear them, do the same, or if youâre using Daily Wool Sport yarn, machine wash alone in cold water and tumble dry low
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho. We canât wait to see what you make!
Learn About Daily Wool Sport + All Our Beautiful Yarns
This project is incredibly soft and conveniently machine wash- and dry-able in our beautiful Daily Wool Sport, a 100% superwash wool yarn. A round yarn spun from 4 tidy plies, this sport-weight yarn is un-prone to pilling, with a bounce to its step and a lovely stitch definition. Daily Wool Sport is ready to knit and wear on repeat!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our growing collection of Daily Wool Sport knitting patterns and cast on!
More Sport-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of sport-weight yarn
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial, our Yarn Substitution article, and our Complete Guide To Yarn for lots of helpful information.
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop Daily Wool Worsted, this yarn’s worsted-weight sibling
- Shop machine-washable yarn
- Shop superwash wool yarn
- Shop wool yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our knitting patterns (including tons of free knitting patterns) and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Fabulous
What about using 9 inch circular needles. Doesn’t anyone use those? I love mine! Seems like no one ever includes those in the pattern instructions. I call discrimination. đâşď¸
Hi Judy!
Thank you for writing in! You are absolutely welcome to use 9″ circular needles if theyâre your favorite. Many knitters love them, especially for socks, sleeves, and other small-circumference projects. We donât list them in most pattern instructions simply because not everyone finds them comfortable, and some sections can still require switching to DPNs or Magic Loop depending on the project and knitter.
That said, if 9″ circulars work for you, go for it! Knitting should feel good in your hands, and thereâs always room to adapt tools to suit your style. No discrimination here! Just lots of love for knitters who know what they like!
Warmly,
Megan
When I print this to pdf the images are broken. Is there a way to get the pattern with the images for free, or do I need to pay for the pattern with images?
Hi KT!
Thank you for your question! You definitely donât need to pay for the pattern â itâs completely free, images included.
If the images are breaking when you print to PDF, the best way to handle this is to use the built-in print feature on the pattern page rather than your browserâs print function. On a desktop, youâll see a small âprintâ icon in the right column just below the âSave to Favoritesâ button. On mobile, the print icon appears below the pattern and above the comments. Clicking that icon opens a special print window where you can customize exactly what gets included. When you hover over text or images, theyâll highlight and a small trash icon appears, allowing you to remove anything you donât want before creating your PDF.
Once youâve adjusted the layout, click the âPDFâ button in the upper left of that window. After it finishes generating, use the âDownload PDFâ option to save it directly to your computer. Weâve found that downloading the PDF first and then opening it from your computer (instead of viewing it in a browser tab) usually resolves image issues. If youâre still running into trouble, right-clicking or control-clicking the download link and choosing âDownload linked fileâ can also help ensure everything saves correctly.
If the problem continues, feel free to reach out to us at [email protected] and weâll be happy to help troubleshoot further!
Warmly,
Megan
What would you substitute that would be a wool nylon blend, which is what I thought was the only way to go for socks. Thank you!
Hi Nancy,
We’re glad you asked this and are happy to clarify! While nylon adds durability to socks, it isn’t absolutely necessary to include in sock yarn. All you really need is a stretchy fiber and superwash wool is extra helpful because socks need to be washed more than the average accessory… Another benefit of superwash wool is that they tend to be more resistant to pilling over time. Pilling will make socks run down faster, so it’s something to keep in mind if you’re concerned about longevity.
That said, we don’t have any sport weight yarns with nylon that we can recommend as a substitute for this pattern, but you can always try a standard fingering weight sock pattern like our Easy Heel Colorblock Socks or our Perfect Fit Socks and use our Fine Print or Stormy Superwash Sock yarn instead! Both are made up of superwash merino and nylon, so they’re even better for sock projects!
All the best,
Zha Zha
I think I might have interpreted the heel flap section in correctly. For the flap rows I did the two initial rows and then it said to repeat those rows 14x for the adult small size. So I did a total of 30 rows. But now I think the heel flap is much too longâ itâs about 4.5 inches. Can you confirm/help? Thank you!!
Hi Nicole!
Thanks so much for writing in with your question. Great work so far on your Block Party Socks!
I can understand how this could be a little tricky and I’m happy to help!
Your interpretation of the pattern seems spot on! Great work! I wonder if you knit and blocked a gauge swatch before starting? It looks like the row gauge for ribbing should be 10 rounds per inch. So after 30 rounds, you should be close to 3 inches rather than 4.5 inches.
If you’re still running into concerns, please feel free to send us an email (with a photo of your heel flap and a ruler measuring the flap) to [email protected] and we would be glad to take a look for you!
I hope this helps! Please feel free to reach out with any other questions.
Happy knitting!
Hills
That does helpâ knowing itâs a gauge issue and not that I did too many rows. I checked my gauge for the cuff and it is just over an inch per 10 rows. So I redid the heel flap keeping a tighter gauge and itâs now just under 3.25 inches, so I think Iâm in good shape now. Thank you!
Hi Nicole!
I’m so glad to hear this was helpful! I hope you enjoy knitting your Block Party Socks. Please don’t hesitate to reach out with any other questions you might have. We’re always happy to help!
Happy knitting!
Hills
I have reached the “turn heel” section with 25 stitches on my needle. I must be interpreting Row 1 incorrectly because I don’t come up with 25 stitches. I am reading it as K1, K2tog, K2tog, K11, slip, slip, K which only adds up to 19 stitches unless the last K means to go to the end of the row. Please advise. I left my phone number on your message machine if it would be easier to explain it that way. Thank you.
Hi Maxine!
Thanks so much for writing in today. I’m so happy to hear you’re working on the Block Party Socks, and I’m happy to help.
Turning the heels are a bit like short rows, you’ll only work partially across the row before turning the work. I did copy the directions for Row 1 below; I just wanted to note that the k2tog and ssk are not duplicated… it’s written out with the full terminology first, and then we give the abbreviation afterwards so that we can reference that abbreviation moving forward.
Row 1 (right side): K1, knit 2 together, k 11, slip slip knit, k1, turn work so wrong side is facing you. [23 Heel stitches remain].
You’ll only knit 17 of the 23 stitches on your first row.
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
Hills
any advice for knitting magic loop two socks at a time?
Hi Josephine,
Thank you so much for writing in with your question. I’m so glad the Block Party Socks caught your eye.
I’d suggest checking out this handy tutorial on Magic Loop: Two At A Time. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Hills