Julie Hoover For Purl Soho: Rigby
Sometimes a design is so effortlessly elegant that it feels discovered rather than devised, as though it had been conjured from thin air. Julie Hoover’s Rigby in our Simply Camel is such a garment, so dazzling in its simplicity we can’t believe we’ve been without it all this time.
Julie is an expert at thoughtful construction and subtle details, and for this piece she has us knit in the round from hem to underarms, then work flat up to the shoulder seams, finishing the edges with delicate rows of knits and purls for a versatile garment full of breezy sophistication.
Our go-to yarn for understated knits, the incredibly soft Simply Camel is one hundred percent undyed baby camel. This fingering weight yarn creates a gorgeous fabric with a beautiful drape and a desert glow… Both timely and timeless!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed for Purl Soho by Julie Hoover. Currently based in Ann Arbor, Michigan, Julie Hoover designs knitwear and makes yarn, for both her own personal label and others. Her work reflects a lifelong passion for clothing and textiles, and her view that knitting is a beautiful way of creating timeless fashion, a thoughtful mix of quality and creativity, intention and care.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoRigby and #PurlSohoSimplyCamel. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 4 (5, 5, 6) (6, 7, 8) (8, 9, 10) skeins of Purl Soho’s Simply Camel, 100% baby camel. Each skein is 164 yards/ 50 grams; approximately 620 (700, 785, 870) (970, 1060, 1160) (1265, 1385, 1505) yards required.
- US 5 (3.75 mm), 24- or 32-inch circular needles
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 24- or 32-inch circular needles
- US 3 (3.25 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 2 (3 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A Rigby Pattern
GAUGE
22 stitches and 34 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on largest needles
NOTE: Due to the elastic nature of the Simply Camel, we recommend allowing your gauge swatch to “relax” for 72 hours after washing and blocking to get the most accurate row gauge results.
SIZES
NOTE: For help deciding which size to knit, please visit our Understanding Ease + Selecting Your Size tutorial.
35 (38½, 42¼, 45¾) (49½, 53, 56¾) (60¼, 64, 67¾)
To fit actual chest circumference of 29–32 (32–35, 36–39, 39–42) (43–46, 47–50, 50–53) (54–57, 58–61, 61–64) inches, with approximately 3–6 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 35 (38½, 42¼, 45¾) (49½, 53, 56¾) (60¼, 64, 67¾) inches
- Finished Hip Circumference: 33½ (37, 40¾, 44¼) (48, 51¾, 55¼) (59, 62½, 66¼) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 22½ (23, 23½, 24) (25¼, 25¾, 26¼) (27¼, 28, 28¼) inches
Sample: The sweater pictured here is size 42¼, worn with 6 inches of ease.
PATTERN
The Rigby Pattern is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
LEARN ABOUT SIMPLY CAMEL + ALL OUR BEAUTIFUL YARNS
We chose our Simply Camel for this project because it always brings a level of natural elegance and beauty that just beams out into the world! This 100% undyed baby camel yarn is just how the (free-roaming!) animals grew it, as simple as can be. A fingering-weight yarn, Simply Camel is incredibly soft in a 2-ply spin that blooms and glows… Enjoy this special knitting experience!
More Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our collection of (mostly free!) Simply Camel knitting patterns and cast on!
More Fingering-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of fingering-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fibers
- Shop camel yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
If I’m substituting yarn for the Rigby pattern, do I use the gauge suggested for Simply Camel or the gauge suggested on the Rigby pattern? Is Simply Camel doubled for Rigby? I’m thinking of using Worsted Twist. Will it have a nice drape?
Hi Kathleen,
Thanks for writing in. You will need to match the gauge of this pattern (22 stitches and 34 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on largest needles) in order to knit it to the correct dimensions! The pattern is written for one strand Simply Camel (a heavy fingering weight/light sportweight yarn), so Worsted Twist is unfortunately too thick for this design. If you’re looking to use Worsted Twist for a similar style garment, I’d recommend our Ribline Vest instead. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
Could you please recommend the best type of method to join the Simply Camel yarn. Thank you so very much.
Hi Melanie,
I’d be happy to help you with the best way to join a new ball of Simply Camel! I because of the fiber content, I wouldn’t recommend a wet-splice for this particular yarn, so the best way to join a new ball would be to leave a 3-4″ tail of the first ball and then join the new ball, making sure to allow for a 3-4″ tail at the beginning of the new yarn as well. Then, you can go back and weave in these two tails to close up the small hole made by the join! You can see this entire process broken down in our tutorials Adding a Ball of Yarn and Weaving in Your Ends, if you need some additional guidance!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Shape Sides: “continuing in stockinette, repeat SIRow on following (36th) round.” Does count begin as of beginning of stockinette rows or after doing the SIRow? Same for instruction in following paragraph: Should I begin counting rows (starting with row 1) or continue counting where left off before doing SIRow? Thanks!
Katherine
Hi Katherine,
Thanks for reaching out! For the Shape Sides section, you will be including that first row of stockinette stitch in your count, so including that row you will have exactly 36 rows total. For the following rounds where it says “Continuing in stockinette stitch, work 35 rounds even or until piece measures approximately 12 3⁄4 (12 3⁄4, 12 3⁄4, 12 3⁄4)”, the row count is less important than getting the correct length.
I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Carly
Pattern: Back>Shape Armholes
“Maintaining Slipped Selvage. . .repeat Armhole Decrease Row every right-side row. . .more times, then every 4th row. . .”
My question: every 4th row or every 4th right-side row?
Thanks!
Hi Katherine,
Thanks for reaching out! The decreases for this section will be repeated every 4th row (or every other right side row) 4 (4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5)
(6, 8, 9) times, then every 8th row 1 time, then every 12th row 1 time.
Please let me know if you have any questions about this!
All the best,
Carly
Sorry, I still see two interpretations.
Every right-side row 4 times; then every 8th right-side row 1 time; then every 12th right-side row 1 time?
Or: every right-side row 4 times; then every 8th row counting both R & W sides 1 time; then every 12th row counting both R & W sides 1 time?
Thanks!
Hi Katherine,
I’d be happy to clarify! For this section, you will work the decrease row on each right-side row 2 (3, 5, 5) (8, 11, 11) more times. After that, you will knit 3 rows in stockinette stitch and then knit a decreased row on the 4th row, and repeat that 4 (4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) times.
Then you will knit 7 rows in stockinet stitch and on the 8th row work your decrease row one time. Finally, you will knit 11 rows of stockinette stitch and on the 12th row you will work a decrease row.
All the best,
Carly
I am at the point of seaming the shoulders, but unsure how to proceed. There front was bound off with 11 stitches, and the back was sloped and bound off with 3 stitches. How do I match these up?
Hi Kristina,
Thanks for your question! Because back panel was knit with a sloped bind off, you can use Kitchener stitch to graft together 11 stitches total, including stitches that were cast off in previous rows during the Shape Neck + Shoulder section of the back panel. This gives that seam a slight incline, making it more fitted to the contours of your shoulders!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly
Hi, regarding the shoulder seaming, because the stitches were cast off, how can you use kitchener stitch? Isn’t that only for live stitches? Also, I am making a striped version. What would be the best way to handle the bind off so that it looks good. The sloping seems a little awkward with partial stripes in the back.
Thank you.
Hi Janice,
Thanks for reaching out. This pattern actually does not use Kitchener stitch! We recommend using this seaming technique. Hope this helps clarify things!
In answer to your other question, I’m not entirely sure without learning more about how you’re modifying the pattern. If you can send a photo of the stripes on the shoulders to [email protected], we can take a closer look!
All the best,
Lili
Hello–Can Quartz, which is described as a classic fingering weight yarn, be substituted for Simply Camel, which Lili describes above (4-18-22) as a heavy fingering weight/light sports weight yarn. Or would a sport weight like Season Alpaca be better substitution to make? Thank you.
Hi Judith,
Both Quartz and Season Alpaca can definitely be used for this pattern, but you’ll get a very different quality to the knit fabric depending on which you choose! Season Alpaca would be a more natural match to the gauge of the pattern (22 stitches and 34 rows = 4 inches of stockinette stitch), and this yarn will create a relatively dense fabric with less space between stitches. Quartz, on the other hand, will create a much looser fabric with more space between stitches at the same gauge. You could also hold Quartz double for a denser fabric though, and likely still be able to meet the gauge!
All the best,
Lili
Many thanks for your help, Lily. I appreciate Purl Soho not only for the lovely, virtually flawless yarns, but also for the expertise you so generously share with knitters.
You’re very welcome, Judith!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I am confused on size for the gorgeous Rigby short sleeve pullover/vest. I also am a very “tight” knitter. and I prefer looser vs tighter fitting clothes. My chest is 38, if I add 3 for ease, 41, or 6=44, Would I be knitting for 45 (1/4) which requires 6 skeins or 870 yards, please advise. Thank you.
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! Even though you’re generally a tight knitter, I would highly recommend knitting up a gauge swatch in order to achieve the correct gauge before knitting any garment. You may need to use larger needles in order to get the correct gauge, but once you do, it will be so much easier to make sure that you knit the best possible size for your body.If this is daunting, I’d recommend checking out a tutorial called All About Gauge, which covers some incredibly helpful information. I even learned some interesting, new tidbits myself while looking over it, and you may, too! You can find it right here.
Based on the fit of this particular pattern, which was designed with 3 – 6 inches of positive ease, you would knit size 42 1/4. This size would fit with 4 1/4 inches of positive ease. But, if you prefer a looser fit, then you could absolutely make the 45 3/4 inch size, which would fit with 7 3/4 inches of positive ease! I’d also recommend taking a look at our Understanding Ease + Selecting Your Size tutorial for even more information, which is located here.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
Do you recommend swatching for circular gauge or flat since this pattern is knit both in the round and flat?
Thanks!
Hi Cathy,
That is a great question! I’d recommend swatching in the round since circular knitting makes up the majority of this design. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Yes, it is a great help! I just received the shipment of Simply Camel yarn today, which I wound into a cake. I’m eager to start swatching. The Simply Camel is so luxurious and soft with a slight shine that I find delightful. I’m eager to begin knitting!
I am so glad you found it helpful! We are here if you need any other help along the way. Happy knitting!
I’ve divided the front and back, now I am working the back to shape the armholes.
The pattern says to work decrease rows a certain number of times based on the size that I’m making(42 1/4) then after the last decrease row to work 23 rows even or until Armhole measures approximately 9”.
I’ve got 4 more rows before my last decrease row and my armhole (from the stitches on the needle to the front stitches on hold) is already 9.5”!
Should I just knit one wrong side row after my last decrease and then begin to divide the right & left back section knowing the armholes will be slightly bigger? Or am I measuring between wrong points on my project?
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for writing in! This sounds like your row gauge could be the culprit. Can you please let me know what your gauge (both stitch and row) currently is?
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
My current gauge is 22 stitches and 30 rows = 4 inches.
Thanks,
Cathy
Ah, that would do it! Your gauge is about 4 rows larger than the gauge of the pattern (34 rows = 4 inches). Since you’re so far along in the pattern at this point, I would not recommend undoing any of your work. Instead, I would recommend completing the final decreases so that you have the correct stitch count and then continuing the pattern from there. Your armholes will be slightly longer, but it shouldn’t be that big of a difference!
All the best,
Lili
Perfect. Thanks for confirming.