Ribline Vest
Our Ribline Vest slips right between the layers, over shirts and sweaters, under coats and wraps. It’s as interesting as a layered conversation and as irresistible as a layered cake! A breeze to knit, you’ll work each hem flat in half-twisted rib, then join them together to knit in the round to the underarms. There, you’ll split for front and back, and in the end, rejoin your live stitches for the short-row shaped collar. Simple!
And cherry on top, we knit our Ribline Vest in our gorgeous Cashmere Tend so that the making feels as good as the wearing. The perfect knit to satiate your sweater urges without tumbling down sleeve canyon, make life more layered!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
UPDATE: NOW IN PLENTY
FEBRUARY 2023
With its distinctive high twist, our 100% extra fine merino Plenty is a wonderful yarn for this crisp, stylish knit. Plenty is ridiculously soft, so it’s a perfect choice if you’re wearing this vest on its own, and at the same time, its plump worsted-weight warmth ensures you’ll be cozy if you’re layering. We love this gorgeous Sapphire Blue, but Plenty has over twenty colors to pick from, so choose your own gem and cast on!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Adam Aronowitz.
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoRiblineVest, and #PurlSohoCashmereTend. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 8 (8, 9, 10) (12, 12, 14, 15) skeins of Purl Soho’s Cashmere Tend, 100% cashmere. Each skein is approximately 82 yards/ 50 grams; approximately 590 (650, 740, 810) (920, 985, 1075, 1165) yards required. We used the color Ice Gray.
- US 7 (4.5 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 7, 24-inch circular needles
- US 7, 32- or 40-inch circular needles (depending on size you are making)
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A Ribline Vest Pattern PDF
GAUGE
18 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
19 stitches and 26 rows = 4 inches in half-twisted rib stitch
SIZES
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
37 (40½, 44, 47½) (51¼, 54¾, 58¼, 61¾)
To fit actual chest circumference of 31–34 (34–37, 38–41, 41–44) (45–48, 49–52, 52–55, 56–59) inches, with approximately 3–6 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 37 (40½, 44, 47½) (51¼, 54¾, 58¼, 61¾) inches
- Finished Length Fom Shoulder To Bottom Edge: 20¾ (21, 22¼, 22¾) (24¼, 24½, 25¼, 26) inches
Sample: The sweater pictured here is size 40½, worn with 7 inches of ease.
PATTERN
The Ribline Vest Pattern is available as a PDF download only.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 45 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 1000’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Has anybody made a longer version of this vest yet? I’m tall and would want it to be a little longer? If not, an easy mod?
Hello Addie,
Thank you for reaching out! We haven’t tried making this vest longer, but it would be simple to modify. This vest is constructed by working the front and back hems separately before joining them to knit in the round. To make this vest longer you will just need to add length to the front and back hems.
I hope this makes sense and lest us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Is the cool wool you suggested for this pattern soft to the touch?
Hello Stephanie,
Thank you for reaching out. Cashmere Tend is so incredibly soft- I highly recommend it!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Are there other less expensive yarns that you think might work well for this pattern? I love the cashmere but it’s not in my knitting budget right now.
Hi Carolyn,
We hear you! We totally understand that sometimes our yarn suggestions are more of an inspiration than a reality for many people. We are always happy to recommend less expensive (but still beautiful!) alternatives. In this case, we suggest that you try Good Wool held double to match the gauge of Cashmere Tend. Because the yardage is quite generous, you will only need 4 (4, 4, 5)(5, 6, 6, 7) skeins, even with the yarn held double.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi Purl Soho! I just bought this pattern; my very first Purl Soho pattern 🙂 Question: Row 2 of “continue back hem” – is the ……”[p1,p1tbl] 4 times, p1.” correct? Should it be ….[K1, p1tbl] 4 times, p1. Maybe I knitted something incorrectly….
Hi Sharon,
Thanks for reaching out! We are so sorry about this! There was indeed an error here and your notion is correct. We have corrected it on the pattern and put the correction on our errata page. Our deepest apologies for the mistake!
Best,
Cassy
Can you direct me to the errata page? I am far along on this pattern hoping what I printed was the corrected version!
2nd question-I am on top of p. 4, size 40 1/2,just fininished the first two decrease rows. What is my stitch count supposed to be? 81 or 77? Thanks.
Hi Suzanne,
Your stitch count at this point should be 81! The stitch counts for size 40 1/2 will always be the first number within the first set of parentheses.
All the best,
Lili
Hi Suzanne,
Thank you for asking! Our errata page can be found right here, and any version of this pattern purchased after October 16, 2019 will reflect these updates! If you’re not sure that you have the most updated version of the pattern, please feel free to reach out to us at [email protected] so we can get you the most updated copy.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Can you also confirm that the decreases I have to do in the “repeat decrease” instruction are every 3rd row (so they end up being on the w/s and the r/s) and I do these 16 times, for a total of 48 rows?
Hi Suzanne,
Absolutely! I can confirm that after you work 2 rows even and then work the wrong-side version of the Decrease Row, you will knit a total of 48 more rows (16 repeats of the 3 rows), with a decrease row on every 3rd row (which will alternate between right side and wrong side rows).
All the best,
Lili
Which cast on method does the designer recommend?
Hello Elaine,
Thank you for reaching out! We used a long tail cast on for this project.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you!
Hi. I am knitting this right now and I love it. I have just gotten to the Shape Collar section and I am having a very difficult time figuring out my marker placement and how to get eight decreases. Help!
Hi Sachi,
Thanks for writing in! In the joining round, you should be placing six markers. There will be one marker before and after each established twisted rib section, separating them from the stockinette on the front and back, as well as a marker in the middle of each twisted rib section to indicate the sides, and the marker in the center of the left shoulder will be the beginning of the round. In the collar decrease round, you will be decreasing two stitches from each shoulder on either side of the side markers, as well as two stitches from the front and two stitches from the back.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I have finished knitting the ribline vest up to “Shape Back Collar” and I am complete stumped. I do know how to wrp-t and that is not the problem. 1) Is only the back collar shaped, 2) where does the “Short Row” begin, 3) it would be helpful to indicate which rows are ‘back’ and which are ‘front’. I have considered just ignoring this section and continuing to knit as in “Continue Collar until it measures ~3 inches” until the pieces appears long enough to serve as a mock turtle neck. Thanks. Comments?
Hello Bonnie,
Thank you for reaching out! The short row shaping in the back collar pushes the shoulders slightly forward so that the vest sits properly on your shoulders. The markers that placed in the section under “collar” will tell you where your short rows begin. You will work in pattern to your next marker, slip your marker, knit 3 stitches and then wrap and turn. Each row will tell you exactly where you are doing your wrap and turn based on your markers.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I can’t wait to knit the rib line vest. I live in the south so I’d rather knit it with cotton or linen. Would Worsted Cotton knit well on this vest. Would I need to change the directions if I can match the stitch gauge? Any help you can give me is so appreciated.
Hi Janice,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, I think Blue Sky Worsted Cotton would be a wonderful yarn to use for this vest! It is a worsted weight yarn that knits up to a very similar gauge as Cashmere Tend, so as long as you match our gauge, you won’t have to make any changes to the pattern!
Best,
Julianna
I’m at the very last few rows of the collar and I’m stumped. I know how to wrpt, but I don’t understand how the instructions create the push on the shoulders? It looks like you go out of pattern and then turn, and then you are in pattern for a full row? What am I missing?
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for reaching out! The short rows in the collar will lift the back of the collar higher than the front just a bit, and you should be staying in pattern the whole time. For Short Row 1, you will be working in your established pattern, although the knits and purls aren’t written out. In Short Rows 2 through 4, the pattern is written out so you maintain the twisted rib pattern correctly while working the wrong side rows, and starting with the Partial Row, you will go back to knitting in pattern for the rest of the collar.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I just bought this pattern and it does not have an errata page. Can you please tell me HOW the CONTINUE BACK HEM should read? Sharon’s comment is confusing to me.
ALSO, I cannot figure out your sizing for this vest (and I have done many of your patterns!).If I want to fit an actual chest circumference of 34-37, do I just use the first set of numbers inside the parentheses?
HI Cynthia,
Thanks for writing in! We did find an issue with the pattern early on that we corrected in the PDF pattern and we made a note of the change on our errata page! The correction was….
Under the CONTINUE BACK HEM section, Row 2 should read…
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1, [p1tbl, k1] 4 times, purl to last 9 stitches, [k1, p1tbl] 4 times, p1.
The sizing of this lovely vest is 37 (40½, 44, 47½) (51¼, 54¾, 58¼, 61¾) to fit actual chest circumference of 31–34 (34–37, 38–41, 41–44) (45–48, 49–52, 52–55, 56–59) inches, with approximately 3–6 inches of ease. For an acutal chest measurement of 34-37 inches, you will choose the second size which is 40 1/2 inches which includes 3–6 inches of ease!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I am making size 44 of the ribline vest. I am having trouble reading the # of stitches at the end of the armhole before the “work 2 rows even” the dash (-) is throwing me off. am I supposed to have
81 or 77 stitches? Likewise when continuing on to decrease every 3 rows is my repeat 16 or 13 or 8? and are my remaining stitches
49? And how many rows to ending on the wrong side row?
I spoke to your representative and thought I had it….but I don’t.
So far it looks great but worried about getting to the neck. Please assist. Thanks
Hi Dorothy,
Thanks for reaching out! At this point you should have 77 stitches, and will be decreasing on the 13th rows in the next section. This set of instructions is only for sizes 40 1/2, 44, 47 1/2, 51 1/4, and 54 3/4, so the dashes serve as placeholders for the other sizes not included in these instructions. If you see a dash, you should still count that when counting over to the third set of instructions for your size.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi – I have completed the front. Going to the back, working as I did the front, Decrease Row – how do I M1R and add yarn at the same time?? Confused.
Hi Kitti,
Thanks for reaching out! This step can be a little confusing! To join your yarn, you will start by picking up the horizontal bar to the right of the first stitch and place it on your left-hand needle as you would normally to work a Make 1 Right. Next, insert your right-hand needle into the front of the stitch to knit it, and then loop the new yarn around the right-hand needle to finish knitting the Make 1.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
What do you think of Season Alpaca as an alternative yarn for this project? I have just completed a project using Sweetgrass and really enjoyed the alpaca blend. I realize I would still need to work a swatch to determine my exact gauge and make appropriate adjustments. But right now, when we are all shopping online and can’t look the yarn in the face (!), I’m not sure about other aspects of the two yarns for drape, etc. Any advice is appreciated.
Hi Patrice,
Thanks for writing in! Season Alpaca is a sport weight yarn, which is significantly thinner than aran-weight Cashmere Tend. You might be able to use it held double, but you would have to knit a gauge swatch to make sure! It is a wonderfully soft and drapey yarn, so as long as you are able to get the correct gauge, it will result in a lovely vest. Worsted Twist would be another great option for a yarn that you could use held single!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello,
You’ve been out of most all colors in cashmere tend. I keep checking back but no change. Do you carry another yarn that would be a close substitute?
Thank you,
Chase
Hi Chase,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, unfortunately it is taking a while to get the Cashmere Tend back in stock due to the current circumstances we are all experiencing but I do have a comparable yarn to recommend, the Jade Sapphire 8-Ply Cashmere is the closest to our Cashmere tend. I would recommend working up a gauge swatch to insure your gauge is consistent with the pattern whenever using a new yarn than recommended with the pattern!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi there! My chest tends to be a little out of proportion (larger) than the rest of my measurements when it comes to patterns. Do you think if I knit the size of my chest measurement, the rest of the vest will be big and baggy? Thank you 😀
Hi Dana,
Thanks for reaching out! I think due to the design of the vest it should be fine to work the size corresponding with your bust measurements! You could always add a bit of shaping along the sides in the torso region to bring the shape in a bit!
All the best,
Gianna
I’d like to combine the style of the rib line vest with the Purl soho mountain capelet. I’m trying to make the capelet:
– slightly longer in back
-with a split seam at sides
-maybe a ribbed bottom vs the 3 row purled roll bottom. All that said, do you think that the cape let can have those adaptions to the pattern and still be knit in a bulky yarn…. ? Am I trying to make too many changes to the existing pattern? This will be my 4 th or 5 th capelet. I’m losing count.
Hi Tina,
Thanks for reaching out! I think you could certainly make these adjustments to the Mountain Capelet!
Please let us know how this turns out, happy knitting!
Gianna
I love this pattern but find that the front neck looks a bit too high. do you think it would be okay to adjust the pattern to reduce the height of the standing collar?
Thanks Lorraine
Hi Lorraine,
Thanks for reaching out! You could certainly adjust the length of the neckline! It shouldn’t be too difficult, if you just adjust the length of the collar in the “CONTINUE COLLAR” section of the pattern, before you begin shaping the back collar.
Please let me know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Kelsey
I love this design! would this translate okay with a thinner yarn if i made a larger size?
Hi Emily,
I’m glad to hear that you love the Ribline Vest! Yes, you can absolutely make it with a thinner yarn by following the instructions for a larger size. Here’s how to figure out which size to make: First, make a gauge swatch in pattern with your intended yarn and needles. Once you know how many stitches you’re getting per inch, multiply that number by the chest circumference measurement for your original size. Then, compare the resulting number to the stitch counts around the body of each size ([168 (184, 200, 216) (232, 248, 264,
280) total stitches). The size that comes closest is the one you should make! I hope this helps you plan your project.
All the best,
Lili
Can you clarify? P. 4, top, for size 40.5. Just before “Work 2 rows even”, should my stitch count be 81? Following this, we do a decrease row once, then repeat decrease row every 3rd row ( I get that). For my size, 40.5, do I do this decrease row 16 more times, such that I am actually doing 48 more rows, with the decrease every 3rd row?
Thank you.
Hi again, Suzanne,
I just saw this comment as well! But you’re absolutely correct–after you work 2 rows even and then work the wrong-side version of the Decrease Row, you will knit a total of 48 more rows, with decreases every 3rd row.
All the best,
Lili
I’m now at the “Shape Back Collar” Short Row 1. I’m at the beginning of round marker. Are we working back and forth on the back collar only now? If so, I assume we turn the work over so the back side is facing and use another needle to do this? In that case, we are on the wrong side, not the right side as stated in the pattern. Or am I misunderstanding this totally? Thanks for your help.
Hi Suzanne,
Yes, during the SHAPE BACK COLLAR section, you will be working in short rows going back and forth across the back of the collar! This adds extra height to just the back, creating a comfortably-fitting neckline. If you’re new to the short row technique, I’d highly recommend checking out our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn tutorial, in which we demonstrate it in detail!
All the best,
Lili
OK but my issue is, the pattern says the first row will be a right side row. But since I have been working in the round, my first row will be a wrong side, not a right side. What am I not understanding here?
Thanks
Hi Suzanne,
You’re correct, your first Short Row 1 (right side) will just feel like a continuation of CONTINUE COLLAR! Once you reach “wrp-t” at the very end of this short row, you will turn your work to the wrong side and begin Short Row 2 (wrong side).
All the best,
Lili
I’m new to knitting but wanted to give this pattern a try. Under Back Hem Work Ribbing, Set-Up Row (wrong side), should the long tail from casting on be on the right side? I am confused with how to start since it says Set-Up Row (wrong side). Wouldn’t starting on the wrong side with the working yarn on the right hand needle join it for working in the round?
Or does (wrong side) in this case just mean the side that will ultimately end up being the inside of the garment?
Hi Caroline,
Thank you for writing in! The indication of the first row being the wrong side just means that this will be the wrong side of your work. You will still cast on and turn your work to be able to work that row flat. So you will cast on and then turn your work since you will be knitting flat, and not in the round. A lot of times the first row you knit is assumed to be the right side and this pattern is just letting you know that this first set up row is going to be considered your wrong side. I hope that helps clarify.
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hello,
I am rather new a knitting patterns and I am very confused with the shaping of the armhole instructions. I did the first decrease row and next row but then when I get to the size 40.5 I am unsure. Do I do a decrease row (right side) every time I am on the right side and a decrease row (wrong side) every time I am on the wrong side? I don’t know what work 2 rows even means?
Hi Carrie,
That’s a great question! Working rows ‘even’ simply means you are not working and increases or decreases but instead you are knitting all the knits and purling all the purls. In these even rows, your stitch count does not change. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Sorry – me again! Confused on page 4 (size 40.5) I worked 2 rows even (I have 81 stitches) meaning I did 1 right side knit and 1 wrong side purl. Now i amt to do a Decrease Row and it says on the wrong side but my next row is actually the right side? Am I supposed to do another right side row (so three rows even) prior to starting to decrease again on the wrong side (prior to then doing the decrease on every 3rd row)?
Hi Carrie,
It sounds like you actually worked 3 rows even! The last Decrease Row you would have worked was a right side row. Then, your first “even” row would have been a wrong side row, followed by your second “even” row, which would have been a right side row. That would set you up perfectly for a wrong side Decrease Row. But since you ended on a wrong side “even” row, I have a feeling you knit one too many! I would recommend undoing this most recent row, and then you’ll be all set to continue on with the Decrease Row.
All the best,
Lili
Disregard my previous question about the shape collar and reducing by 8. I figured that out – I needed to just do the first decrease round to see that I was double counting the stitch reduction. But now I have a new question – it looks like when I work even in pattern round that the twisted rib stitches are off and what would have been a K1tbl and P1 (and reverse that on the other side) have an extra stitch so do I always slip the first stitch and then do I just add either the K or P at the end for an extra stitch to keep the pattern going correctly? Thanks I am sorry I have so many questions. Can you see if I actually had signed up for a one on one session today (4/25)? I know it was available and I checked out but then it came up as closed and like I mentioned I didn’t receive a zoom invite. Thanks
Hi Carrie,
Thank you for writing in! Working in pattern for this design means to knit the knits and purl the purls to make sure your stitches don’t end up offset. In other words, you will be working in the established pattern to keep your stitches in line. I’d recommend ripping back to the point before the stitches got off track just to be sure you can get back on track to work in pattern. Unfortunately, I do not see a past Zoom session scheduled with the email provided here but I’d recommend reaching out to our team at [email protected] for the fastest response times. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I just finished and I loved the pattern and was hoping to wear it without something underneath but the armholes ended up way too big. Any suggestions?
Hi Beth,
We are thrilled to hear you have finished this pattern and think it makes a great layering piece! If you wanted to shorten the armholes, you could rip back and work less length on your front and back pieces to shorten them a bit. I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
I have finished the in the round and have my front stitches on a needle, back on scrap yarn. I will start knitting flat now. When I was knitting in the round, my needle was in my right hand. To begin knitting flat, I changed my needle to the left hand. This turns the work so now I’m looking at a wrong side row. The pattern’s next step calls for knitting a right side row, so I can’t figure out how to change the needle from right to left and stay on a right side row.
Hi Dorothy,
Thank you for writing in! Instead of turning your work, you will begin working on the right side instead. This way the outside of your fabric is facing you rather than the inside.
I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hello
Would it be possible to adjust the neckline so that it sits flat?
Thank you,
Jan
Hi Jan,
Totally! You can stop knitting once you’ve completed the decreases and then bind off there. You can even try on the vest as you go to figure out the best stopping point!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, having some trouble with the ribbing gauge. Is it accurate that the half twisted rib gauge should be 19? I’ve never seen rib gauge and regular stockinette gauge be so close together. I’ve made a swatch with size 8 needles and am nowhere close to 19. Just want to confirm that number is correct. Thanks!
Hi Nadia,
I can confirm that both gauges for this project are correct! Have you blocked your swatches yet? You should be able to gently stretch the twisted ribbing swatch horizontally to get a better sense of what the gauge will be for your finished project (since you’ll likely block the finished project as well).
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for confirming. Yes, this is after blocking, I get 21sts. And my gauge for stockinette swatch (I used DPNs to make a tube) was 17.5sts. Seems like I need to size up to a 9. Thanks!
Hi, what is your suggestion on a bind off method since there is stockinette and twisted ribbing? Thanks!
Hi Kim,
We recommend binding off in pattern! That means knitting the knits and purling the purls as you bind off. You don’t need to knit any stitches through the back loop though.
All the best,
Lili