Wedding Shawl In Burnish
Years ago we designed this wrap for that season’s warm-weather weddings. It remains to be seen if weddings will be on the docket this year, but if not, we’ll just have to be happy to wear our Wedding Shawl any old day!
Movie night at home or a walk around the block, this Wedding Shawl adds a layer of beauty. And in our rayon-from-bamboo Burnish, it is definitely elegant, but also as durable as a truck.
We recently added some truly stunning colors to our Burnish collection, including this Blue Agave beauty. A gentle blue-green from the softer side of nature’s spectrum, it’s subtle enough to read as a neutral but interesting enough to put a kick in your step!
Blue Agave or any of Burnish’s other 16 colors, you’ll need just three skeins to cast on for your own Wedding Shawl!
Originally designed by Purl Soho designer, Whitney Van Nes, and updated by Jake Canton.
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoWeddingShawl, and #PurlSohoBurnish. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 3 skeins of Purl Soho’s Burnish, 100% rayon made from bamboo. Each skein is 339 yards; approximately 1,014 yards required. We used the color Blue Agave. (NOTE: We no longer offer Burnish, but choose from one of our other fingering/sport weight yarns.)
- US 5 (3.75 mm) circular or straight needles
Gauge
20 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in stitch pattern
Size
Finished Dimensions: 18 inches wide x 70 inches long
Notes
Stitch Multiple
This pattern works over a multiple of 14 + 7 stitches.
Pattern
Cast on 91 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Knit 4 rows
Set Up Row (wrong side): K2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.
Now follow either the Written Instructions or Pattern Chart, both below…
Written Instructions
Row 1 (right side): K3, * k1, knit 2 together (k2tog), yarn over (yo), k1, yo, slip slip knit (ssk), k3, k2tog, yo, k3, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4.
Row 2 (wrong side) and all following wrong side rows: K2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.
Row 3: K3, *k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k4, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4.
Row 5: K2, k2tog, *yo, k5, yo, slip 1 knitwise, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, yo, k4, k2tog, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, yo, k3.
Row 7: K3, *k1, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4.
Row 9: K3, *k2, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4.
Row 11: K3, *k3, yo, ssk, k4, yo, k3tog, yo, k2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4.
Repeat Rows 1-12 until piece measures approximately 70 inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 12.
Continue to Finishing section, below.
Pattern Chart
Start in the bottom right corner of the Chart and work right-side (odd number) rows from right to left, and wrong-side (even number) rows from left to right.
Work Rows 1-12 until piece measures approximately 70 inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 12.
KEY
CHART
Want to see it bigger? Click here and view the chart as a PDF!
Finishing
Knit 4 rows.
With the right side facing you, bind off as if to knit.
Weave in the ends and block as desired.
Please make a PDF format for your patterns. We don’t need to print all the comments or the colors available. Thank you.
Hi Annamarie,
Thank you for writing in! I have a neat trick to share if you’d like to print our patterns without photos… On the upper right section of the post, underneath ‘Buy this Yarn’ and ‘Save to Favorites’, click the ‘Print’ button; in the screen that pops up, the visual of our post is completely editable! Feel free to scroll through the post, hover over photos or blocks of text (they will highlight yellow), and hit the trash can at the left side of the highlighted section to get rid of anything you don’t want to print. Accidentally deleted the wrong part? No problem; simply ‘X’ out of the window and hit the ‘Print’ button again. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
That works nicely – thanks so much for sharing the tip!
Thank you for the clever tip! Saved me several sheets of paper.
The chart seems to be wrong…
Hi Ginny,
Thank you for writing in and pointing this out! We have made the necessary changes to the chart and printable chart PDF, which you can find in their correct form above.
Best,
Gaby
on the chart for the wedding shawl, the even rows are wrong side. so shouldn’t the box with the dot in it on those rows say knit on the wrong side (instead of purl on the right side)?
Hi Susan,
Thank you for reaching out and alerting us to this error! We have made the adjustments to the key which you can find, along with the print-friendly chart PDF, in the correct form above.
Best,
Gaby
Would this pattern be considered advanced or intermediate ?
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! This is a relatively simple lace pattern, as the wrong side rows are almost all purled. I’d say it’s good even for an adventurous beginner! Swatching a repeat of the lace to get the hang of the stitches used is always a great way to get familiar with the pattern and get started before you cast on for a full-sized project. I hope this helps!
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
I printed the written instructions and I noticed Row 10 is missing. Row 9 is visible then instructions jump to Rows11 & 12. Is there a Row 10? Please clarify. Thanks
Hi Gloria,
Thanks for reaching out! All of the wrong side, even-numbered rows are the same as Row 2: K2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.
Hope this helps – happy knitting!
Best,
Cassandra
Thank you for providing a larger print option for the chart. It makes is so much easier to use. My eyes are not what they used to be 😉
Thank you, it’s beautiful
If I wanted to make this about 8 inches wider but keep the same length, how much more yarn might I need?
Thanks!
Lizz
Hi Lizz,
Thank you for writing in! A 26″ wide shawl would require about 1,470 yards total, which is about 4.3 skeins of Burnish. I would recommend purchasing 5 skeins for this larger sized project!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
Additional question for the 8 inches wider question – what would the cast on number of stitches be to make it that wide?
Thanks
Hi Mackenzie,
Thank you for your reply! The gauge for this pattern in Burnish is 5 stitches = 1 inch, so a 26″ wide wrap would require 130 stitches. However, the stitch pattern also requires your cast-on to be a multiple of 14 stitches + 7, so 133 stitches should give you just a smidge over 26″! I hope this helps!
Best,
Gaby
This pattern is so beautiful and I would really like to make it. I’ve read through the pattern and I think I have enough experience as a new knitter to try this pattern, is there anything I should know that I haven’t thought about? I have been crocheting for over 50 years but I just started knitting last year, I finally found a woman who understood that I needed to know the structure of the stitch in order to understand how to knit.
Thank you so much for the free patterns.
GwenDaleAnn
Hi Gwen,
Thank you for reaching out! As a beginning knitter, I highly recommend working a small swatch in this pattern before jumping into the full project. You want to cast on a multiple of 14 stitches + 7 for your swatch, so 35 stitches should be just fine. If you can handle the swatch then the full pattern should be no problem!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
Try Stich mapping to help you see the pattern. Stitchmapping.com
Beautiful shawl! What other yarn can be used for this? I bought the yarn for the botanical lace wrap but not so sure I can accomplish it. Could I use that yarn -sweet grass- for this? Appreciate all your beautiful patterns ☺️
Thanks
Lynn
Hi Lynn,
Thank you for writing in! Unfortunately, as a lace-weight yarn, Sweetgrass Fine would not be a great option for this project. If you are looking for a substitution for Burnish, our new Spectrum Silk would suit this wrap quite nicely. Just make sure you work a gauge swatch!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
Thanks for the advice Gaby! What other options in scarf shawl would be for the sweet grass that I already have 2 skeins of?
Lynn
Hi Lynn,
You can expect to see more projects using Sweetgrass Fine in the future, as this is a fairly new yarn for us! Luckily I have a few other lace weight project recommendations for the time-being. The Open Air Wrap would look lovely in this yarn. For a slightly more adventurous project, the Whisper Wrap is knit horizontally but easy to follow once you get going, and the Checkerboard Lace Scarf is a cool and modern take on lace. I hope one of these catches your eye!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
What is the weight of your “Burnish” yarn. I’m wondering if I can use a diff. Purl Soho yarn?
Hi Judith,
Thank you for reaching out with this question! Burnish is a light sport weight yarn, although this lace wrap calls for a gauge of around 5 stitches per inch in the stitch pattern. Our new Spectrum Silk would make a lovely substitution, producing a wrap with a gentle matte finish and a bit more body. Just be sure to work a gauge swatch if you use a different yarn for this project to make sure you’re on gauge. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
On the chart for the wrong side rows it says to purl two together through the back loop or to purl two together, but on the written instructions it says to knit 2 then purl all stitches to the last two. Is it because the wrong side rows are marked differently on the chart? Thanks.
Hi Jenn,
Thank you for writing in! You should be working your decreases on odd (right side) rows. The wrong side information for decrease stitches in the Chart Key is simply accessory since you will not be working those stitches on the wrong side. I hope this helps!
Best,
Gaby
I have never knit with bamboo rayon before. Does it block well? What is the best way to block it?
Hi Merry,
Thanks for writing! We’ve done classic wet blocking with all of our Burnish projects, and they block out beautifully!
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
Can you explain row 11? I’m using the written instructions and I’m up to my last repeat and I don’t seem to have the correct number of stitches left – thank you!
Hi Rebecca,
Thank you for reaching out! I’m happy to try to figure this out with you! Can you let me know how many stitches short or over you are? Just in case you missed it, the pattern indicates that your final pattern repeat in Row 11 should end with a k1 instead of k5. Looking forward to hearing back!
Best,
Gaby
The count on the written instructions doesn’t seem to make sense. After the last yo I have six stitches left to work.
I have been doing this: K6, *yo, ssk, k4, yo, k3tog, yo, k5, repeat from * K1
Hi Rebecca,
Thank you so much for alerting us to this error! You have been working the pattern exactly right. I’ve made the adjustment to the instructions and you can find the correct pattern in its full form above. For your convenience, I’m also including the corrected Row 11 below:
Row 11: K6, *yo, ssk, k4, yo, k3tog, yo, k5, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Best,
Gaby
Gabby, the row 11 is still not correct. If in the last repeat you knit 2, then you have 5 stitches left over. Can you please send a correction. There are 14 stitches between the *’s.
Nancy
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for writing in, and I apologize that we’re having some technical difficulties with this page at the moment! Gaby’s correction in the comment that you are replying to should be correct, although the pattern in the main post is showing our original incorrect Row 11. We’re working on getting this page set right, but in the meantime, if you follow Gaby’s row, it should work out correctly!
All the best,
Julianna
I just ordered the yarn (Rosy Pink) to make this for my future daughter-in-law for their wedding in late summer 2021. Super excited. I was wondering — since the wedding will be outdoors in the mountains of Colorado, it may be cool — I’d love to make her a pair of fingerless mitts to keep her hands warm. The mitts are easy, but I feel like the lace pattern is a bit too large for mitts. Can you suggest how to adapt it to make it smaller? If I went down by half (7) + 7, would that work? Thanks!
Hi Deb,
Thank you for writing in! What an interesting adaptation for this pattern- fingerless mitts sound lovely. Unfortunately re-writing the stitch pattern to be smaller is quite complicated, but I can certainly help you figure out an approximate stitch count for mitts using the current stitch pattern. The gauge for this pattern in Burnish is 5 stitches = 1 inch, so an average female hand (7 inch circumference) would require a cast-on of 35 stitches. The stitch pattern also requires your cast-on to be a multiple of 14 stitches + 7, so 35 should be just right!
I hope this was helpful and happy knitting!
Gaby
Perfect — thanks so much! Math is not my long suit, obviously!!
I’ll send pictures of how they turn out. 🙂
I’m expecting a summer baby and thought this pattern would be beautiful as a baby blanket. Do you think I can double the width and shorten the length to make it a light baby blanket? Or would this be too lightweight?
Hi Jane,
Thanks for asking! I think this would make a lovely summer blanket. Burnish has quite a bit of drape and weight to it, so it wouldn’t be too lightweight at all. It has a lovely cool feel to the touch as well, which makes it great for warmer weather knits!
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
Thank you!! If I were to double the width and try getting it about a square-ish blanket, would I still require 3 skeins?
Hi Jane!
I think you’d be safer planning for 4 skeins. While it might only need 3, it would be cutting it a bit close. I always err on the side of caution when buying yarn for a project, whenever possible. I hope this helps!
Best,
Cassandra
Would it be possible to make th wedding shawl using a yarn with another fiber combination (linen quill, cotton or a wool silk blend) which is somewhat finer than Burnish? If so, how should the pattern be adjusted? Sometimes I like a pattern but a different yarn and am not sure if the combination would work.
Thank you for your advice.
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for asking about this! The yarns that we have that are most similar to Burnish in texture and weight are Spectrum Silk, Cotton Pure, and Sweetgrass. I think all three of these would be an almost equal substitution, but I would recommend swatching. Linen Quill is very close in weight, but a bit different in construction and would probably look best at a smaller gauge, on smaller needles. The pattern is a multiple of 14 + 7 stitches, so if you wanted to make it larger (or smaller) you’d just need to make sure that your cast on is 14 stitches more (or less) than the recommended cast on of 91. I think all of these options would work out really well, and as I mentioned, the first three yarns I mentioned would need little to no adjustment because of how close they are in weight. I hope this helps – please feel free to reach out if you have any more questions!
Best,
Cassandra
I purchased this yarn specifically for this pattern and I must say it is absolutely stunning!
I do have a problem. This is the third time I am trying to start this project and I just ran into the same problem with the very first yo row. I have all 91 stitches but towards the end of the row I do my final K4 and I only have 2 stitches left on my left needle rather than the 3 the pattern says I should have. I went extra slow this time around to be sure that I followed every direction and yet I ended up with the same result. What am I doing wrong? Is it possible that I should cast on 92 stitches instead? Thanks for the help!
Hi Megan,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you might be knitting an extra stitch after each yarn over – this is a very common mistake for new lace knitters! When you see a YO in a lace pattern, this simply refers to bringing the yarn to the front of the work and does not include knitting a stitch to complete or secure the yarn over. When you knit the next stitch in the pattern, the yarn will wrap over the top of the needle to complete the yarn over. Our Yarn Over tutorial demonstrates this in more detail!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I am considering using the spectrum silk so that I have can have a few more color options. Looks like I will need more skeins of yarn than what is need for Burnish. Are you able to give me an estimate of how many will be needed?
It was mentioned that the turpuose sea in Burnish bleeds. Will that be a problem with any of the darker colors in Spectrum Silk?
Hi Shelby,
Thanks for writing in! This shawl requires 1,014 yards of yarn, so you will need 7 skeins of Spectrum Silk. We haven’t experienced any color bleeding in Spectrum Silk in our testing and sample knitting so I don’t think you have anything to worry about, especially when knitting a single color item like this shawl! If you are concerned, you can always follow our Re-Fixing Dye tutorial to set the dye further before you begin knitting, but for a single color item, I would probably recommend just washing it separately at first in case there is any bleeding.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Thanks so much Julianna. Appreciate you help. Stay safe and thank you for being a blessing.
Hello, I have a question about row #5 – after I k5, yo, and slip 1 knit wise, does the yarn stay in front from the yo as I k2tog, or should I be putting it in back before I knit the 2tog and pass the slipped stitch over? I have been leaving the yarn in front but not sure if this is correct as I’m still quite the beginner. Thank you for your time and help!
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you are working this row correctly! Even though the stitch following the yarn over is a decrease, you should still leave the yarn in the front while you work it so that the yarn wraps over the top of the right-hand needle to create the yarn over, just as you would between two regular knit stitches. As long as your stitch count remains the same after every row, you know that you’re working the stitches correctly!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello. I have three questions An online review mentioned this yarn tends to fray. Is there a correct kind of needle with which to knit Burnish? I am a Continental knitter, not a tight one. Also I have just printed the wedding shawl pattern – are all the corrections mentioned in the comments already in this print out? And last, I like the Blue Agave but I also like the color next to it, Blue Spruce, and wonder whether they would fade well from one into the other or is it better to stay with one color? Is the blue spruce still on the neutral side but just a bit darker? Many thanks for being patient. Nirelle
Hi Nirelle,
Thanks for writing in! It’s not uncommon for slippery plant fiber yarns to tend to split a little while you are knitting! Some knitters find that using a less sharp needle, like original Addi Turbos, will help make sure your needle goes into the stitch and not into the middle of the yarn. No matter what needle you decide to use, slowing down and taking extra care with your stitches until you are used to Burnish should keep things together! This pattern and chart have been fully updated. Blue Agave and Blue Sage share the same lovely undertones, and should work together beautifully! In person, although Blue Sage has a grayish tone, it’s definitely more of a blue-green than a neutral.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello! I have tried this pattern multiple times and cannot seem to get hang of the pattern-I look at the pattern then knit then look back up I lose my place -is there another perhaps simpler pattern I could use the burnish yarn for?
Thank you
Lyn
Hi Lynn,
Thanks for reaching out! I am sorry to hear you are having trouble with this wrap! Luckily you can use your Burnish for any of our Finger Weight Scarves and Wraps! For something a bit more simple, I would recommend using it in place of Linen Quill for the Open Air Wrap or in place of Spectrum Silk in our Elementary Wrap! I also suggest working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to ensure you are consistent with the pattern prior to beginning!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
I do not understand the set up row in the beginning. I have done lace patterns before and this seems odd. After knitting 4 rows I am looking at a right side NOT a wrong side, so what’s the purpose of set up row its just making everything backwards
Hi Pamela,
Thanks for reaching out! The setup rows create a small border of garter stitch, which helps the scarf lay flat and looks a little tidier on the edges. It might seem odd to start with a purl or wrong side row when you are on an odd-numbered row, but since garter stitch is reversible, there isn’t technically a wrong or right side yet! Once you have gotten past the set-up row and worked the first few rows of the lace pattern, it will be quite easy to see which side is now the right side, making it much easier to stay on track.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
It would be clearer if the pattern repeat lines on the chart were staggered, as the actual repeat is. In other words, the text and the chart do not match.
Ex. The first row of the text is k4, k2tog…… The chart reads k3, (start of repeat), k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k3 (end of repeat) leaving 4 st. outside repeat box.
Newer knitters need to be able to see the repeats if they are going by the chart.
Hi Marilyn,
Thanks for reaching out! It looks like there are a few discrepancies between the chart and the written pattern… Thank you for bringing this to our attention and we will be sure to get this sorted as soon as possible!
All the best,
Gianna
I do have a question regarding the Burnish colors and some differences I noticed in the rendering of the pictures. Blue agave looks very pale on the Burnish chart colors but darker/more blue on the wedding shawl pictures. I am interested by the pink pearl color and wondering what is really looks like. Is it a very light pink as on the chart or a bit darker like for blue agave? I want to make sure I am not disappointed if I order it. Thank you!
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for reaching out! Thank you for bringing this to our attention, it looks like the product photos are a bit lighter than the skeins themselves! The Blue Agave is more accurate to the photos above in the Wedding Shawl. The Pink Pearl is more pink, a bit more richer in color! We are going to be re-editing these photos so they are accurate to represent the true colors of the skeins! Thanks again for sharing this with us, it is much appreciated!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi there. I printed out this pattern yesterday and am working on a swatch while waiting for my Pink Pearl Burnish to arrive. In reading the comments – some very recent, there appear to be some discrepancies between the written directions and the chart. In addition, there appears to be a discrepancy between the current written directions for Row 11 and the row directions that Gaby advised was correct in May 2020. Kindly advise whether the glitches in the written pattern and chart have been corrected and whether they are accurate as of December 6, 2020.
Thank you.
Hi Diane,
Thanks for reaching out! Originally the written pattern and chart were the same pattern (if you followed both you’ll get the same result) they were just written using different repeats, but both were correct! Some of our customers found the difference between the two to be a bit confusing so as of November 19, 2020 we re-wrote the written part of the pattern to match the chart! So yes, as of December 6th both chart and pattern are completely accurate and up to date!
I hope you enjoy knitting this shawl!
All the best,
Gianna
Dear Gianna,
Thank you for confirming the accuracy of the pattern. It’s a tricky one that requires paying attention, but I’m looking forward to the challenge. Happy holidays to everyone at Purl Soho.
Diane
Hello everyone
this is such a beautiful pattern, do you think I can use mohair thread with it?
I
Hi Riyam,
Thanks for reaching out! You could certainly use a mohair yarn for this pattern! I do recommend working a gauge swatch whenever using a different yarn than recommended in the pattern to insure that you are consistent or if you will need to make any adjustments!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
This is such a lovely pattern and the complexity is a great challenge. Does row 5 end is yo and knit 3? I am left with a extra knit stitch at the end. Can you please advise? All the other odd rows end with 4 knit ends in the end except 5. Is that how it’s supposed to be or row 5 is a mistake?
Hi Shaila,
Thanks for reaching out and bringing this to our attention! It is actually correct that you are only knitting 3 stitches at the end of this row instead of 4, however it should say *to last 3 stitches, yo, k3 instead of * to last 4 stitches, yo, k3. So if you are completing the row as written, you should end with the k2tog and have exactly 3 stitches left on the needle so that you can work the yo and then knit the last 3. If you are ending the row with an extra stitch then I believe you may be missing a k2tog or missing passing the slipped stitch over and off the needle leaving you with an extra.
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
What would be the best heavier weight yarn to use for this pattern. I am knitting for a winter wedding.
Hi Ann,
Thanks for reaching out! I think this shawl would be lovely in Coorie, Brume or even Season Alpaca! These three should all work with the needle size as is, however I recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning!
Warmly,
Gianna
Help! Is it me? I’m about 6 inches or so in and things are going really slowly because every time I get to row 5, I end up with a few extra stitches. What’s happening? It’s me, isn’t it? 🙁
Hi Deb,
Thanks for reaching out! My best guess is that you may be missing one of the k2tog or missing passing the slipped stitch over leaving you with extra stitches. I would write out the row and check off each step as you go so you don’t miss anything!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi Purl Soho! I just finished making the wedding shawl in Pink Pearl for my soon-to-be daughter-in-law. I have to say the shawl is one of the most beautiful pieces I’ve ever knit. The Burnish yarn is a absolute dream to knit with, and the pattern, although challenging, is stunning. I initially had issues with Rows 5 and 7 so I used a lifeline, which helped immensely. Thanks again for such a great yarn and beautiful pattern.
Hi Diane,
I’m so glad to hear you’re enjoying the yarn and the pattern! It’s one of my favorite pieces and I love the idea of it in the Pink Pearl! I’m sure your daughter-in-law is going to love such a thoughtful gift!
Warmly,
Kelsey
I would love to try this. In Row 11 there is a k3tog. Is that done the same way as a k2tog?
Thanks.
Hi Phyllis,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes that is correct, you work the k3tog just as you would with a k2tog with the addition of the 3rd stitch!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Can I make this with tussock yarn?
Hi Marianne,
Thanks for reaching out! You could certainly use Tussock for this pattern! I would suggest working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to insure you are consistent with the pattern.
Warmly,
Gianna
With lace patterns like this one where every row (or every other row) involves a different stitch sequence, I have found it helpful to write out each row on an index card and flip through the cards as I knit. This way you are focusing on only one row at a time, so you’re less likely to make a mistake. I came up with this method while knitting another lace shawl pattern by Purl Soho. It is particularly helpful if you haven’t knitted many lace patterns, or if you’re a beginning knitter.
Hi Vivian,
Thanks so much for writing in and sharing your tips! This is excellent advice and I am sure other knitters will find this very helpful!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
I do not see the length of circular needles needed. Am I just missing this detail or is it not included? Thanks
Hi Irma,
Thanks for reaching out! You can find this information under the MATERIALS section of the pattern, we used a US US 5 needle and you can choose based on your preference of circular or straight needles. If you choose circular needles, I would recommend a 24 or 36″!
Warmly,
Gianna
Why does the written pattern say 12 rows instead of the 11 you talk about? does it finish with a 12 odd numbered row or with row 11? Are 4 rows of knit added to this for the border pictured?
The border on the photo does not look like a garter stitch, and if you do 4 rows of knit then the 5th row -is row 1.
You pattern is far from clear.
Hi Lola,
Thanks for writing in! Yes we mean to work all 12 rows (not 11) keep in mind that for row 2 and each even-numbered row will follow the same instructions: Row 2 (wrong side) and all following wrong side rows: K2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2. So you will end with row 12 working the even-numbered row!
As for the border, there is not a 4 stitch border but it is actually about 2 stitches that will form the edging on the wrap, as you can see in the written instructions the number of stitches at the beginning and end of the row changes with each row. For example row 1 begins with k3 and ends with k4 and row 5 begins with k2 and ends with k3 while all of the wrong side rows will begin with k2 and end with k2. This is to add a bit of edging (just 2 stitches) while maintaining the lace pattern throughout the rows.
I hope this clears things up for you, happy knitting!
Gianna
I’m having problems with row 5 I have the correct number of stitches for the row, correct number of stitches for the pattern stitches, 14 I’ve tried this 3 times is there a correction or is it me thank you
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for reaching out! The pattern is correct as written, but I am happy to help! What seems to be the problem you are experiencing with row 5?
Warmly,
Gianna
I was having the same trouble with row 5 but I figured it out.. On all other right side rows you start with k3. On row 5 you have k2 then knit 2 together and then the repeat starts. This forces you to “borrow one” from the first repeat section and if you have markers for each repeat you have to move the marker by one. At the end of the row I had 4 knit stitches just as all other right side rows, but the instructions are to yo and k3. So if you are “borrowing one” from the next repeat all the way across you “pay it back” at the end of the row by using one of the 4 remaining stitches. I will try this tomorrow. You are shifting the pattern.
Hi Kathy,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, that is correct, the pattern will shift at Row 5! Using stitch markers can be a bit tricky in this case and actually not be as helpful as you may think, since the repeat shifts. If you use stitch markers you will need to move your markers over for row 5 but then you will need to make sure to move the stitch markers back when the pattern shits again.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I am considering making this lovely pattern for the 2022 wedding of a young friend. Two questions, please – I see several references to a pink colorway in the comments, but don’t see it on your color chart. Do you have a pink these days?’’’ And (2), I am considering doubling the width – can I do that readily? Reason for double width – I’d like piece to work as a chuppah. It would be a wedding afghan thereafter.
Hi Hilary,
Thanks for reaching out! I believe the pink in reference is Burnish in Pink Pearl (which is in stock and available!) Luckily this pattern is very easy to adjust! So you can adjust the pattern to any width you would like, and even double it! Just be sure to keep in mind that this pattern works over a multiple of 14 + 7 stitches.
I hope this helps and please let us know how this turns out!
Gianna
I am trying to decide between making the Wedding Shawl, the Little Moons Lace Wrap, or the Archway Lace Wrap for a wedding shower gift, all using Burnish. I am not a very experienced knitter (have made several scarves and baby sweaters/hats, none particularly complicated) and am wondering if you could comment on the difficulty of each relative to the other. Many thanks!
Hi Ava,
Thanks for reaching out! What a special gift! All three of these wraps are beautiful options, but for a novice knitter, I would suggest making the Wedding Shawl. All three are pretty similar difficulty-wise, but the Wedding shawl is a bit more simple compared to the other two!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
I started this shawl using the recommended Burnish yarn but was having a lot of difficulty in winding it as bamboo slips off of the yarn ball winder too easily, plus the yarn was splitting too often, even with needle tips that were not sharp as suggested in one of your earlier replies. Thankfully, Purl Soho agreed to exchange my purchase for Buttercup Cotton, which I believe will work much better for me. So I have 2 questions. (1) I don’t like the way the 2-stitch edging is curling since it’s such a small edging that’s followed by stockinette, and from my experience in prior projects that also had garter stitch edging and stockinette body, it still curls even after blocking. So I’m contemplating changing the pattern to have a moss stitch side edging and bottom/top edging. Do you think that would work better, and should I perhaps increase each side by 2 stitches? The pattern would then be a multiple of 14 + 11 stitches. Another idea I have is to increase my needle size by just 1 size larger for only the side edging, as I’m learning that the “shorter” garter stitch is causing the curling because it’s followed by the “longer” stockinette. (2) Since Buttercup Cotton is fingering weight instead of the Burnish fingering/sport, I was going to drop a needle size and use a US 4. What are your thoughts on that please. Thank you in advance. I really do love the pattern and will be making 4 for my granddaughters who are all young enough that if I start now, I should have enough time to finish them to be given as their wedding keepsake!
Hi Darlene,
If you wanted to add a wider moss stitch edging to your shawls, I think that would be lovely! For the edging, I would recommend adding the extra stitches to your stitch count rather than going up a needle size; using a different needle size for the border would make for a lot of needle switching as you work.
In terms of which needle size to use with the Buttercup Cotton, I’d recommend working up a gauge swatch first to see what size needle works best for your personal gauge! A US4 sounds like a very good place to start, but checking your gauge before beginning your project will make things easier in the long run.
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hi, I have a question about row 5. When it says yo, slip 1, then k2tog, then pass the slipped stitch over, are you passing the slipped stitch over 2 stitches ( the yo and k2tog) or only the k2tog? Just wanting to make sure I’m doing it correctly. Thanks! Am very excited to knit this shawl.
Hi Sue,
Thanks for writing in. On this step, you will only be passing the slipped stitch over the k2tog! The yo will actually be to the right of the slipped stitch already, so it shouldn’t interfere with the other stitches at all. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hello
I am now absolutely determined to succeed with this pattern. This will be attempt # 6. I am an intermediate knitter so should be able to do this. I have my markers set up and everything goes okay until I get to row 11 and then it all goes off the rails.
Row 11: K3, *k3, Y, SSK, k4, Y, k3tog, k2, * k last 4 sts
Thank you in advance♥️
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out, though I’m sorry to hear that this pattern is giving you so much trouble! In in the instructions you wrote out at the end of your comment, it looks like you’re missing a yarn over between the k3tog and the k2. Row 11 should read: K3, *k3, yo, ssk, k4, yo, k3tog, yo, k2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4.
I hope this helps clear things up, but please let me know if you’re still running into issues!
All the best,
Lili
I’m really confused with row 5. I moved my stitch markers along, but before the last k2tog I had 4 stitches. After the last k2tog I only had two – plus the yarn over, but that leaves me with only 3 stitches after the last repeat. Will this get sorted out in subsequent rows?
Hi Costanza,
Thanks for reaching out. It sounds like your stitch pattern got moved forward by one stitch on this row, which caused you to end up with one fewer stitch than you should have at the end! This could have happened for multiple reasons, so I’m afraid that it’s difficult for me to tell exactly what caused it for you. One thing that may have happened is that you began the stitch repeat one stitch too late at the very beginning of the row (as in, you knit 3 stitches before working the k2tog, like on the other rows, rather than knitting just 2 stitches). Another thing that could have happened is that you forgot to work one of the decrease stitches along the way. I’d recommend taking a close look across this row to see if you can determine which was the cause in your case!
All the best,
Lili
Since Burnish is no longer availble, can you help me out by recommending a substifute yarn? Thank you!!!!
Hi Nan,
Thanks for reaching out. I would recommend Santolina in place of Burnish! Santolina is 20% bamboo, so it retains much of the lovely drape that Burnish had. As always, we recommend knitting a gauge swatch before casting on your project, especially when you are substituting yarns. You may need to size up or down your needles in order to get the correct gauge!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Purl Soho. I made this shawl for my daughter-in-law in 2020, and now wish to make one for my daughter. I was very sorry to see your Burnish yarn is no longer available, as it was easy to work with and produced a beautiful drape. In reviewing the comments above, I’ve seen reference to substituting Brume, Tussock, and, most recently, Santolina in place of Burnish. Since I feel the drape is especially important in this piece, which available yarn is most likely to mimic the Burnish drape? Thanks!
Hi Diane,
That’s a great question! Santolina would be by far the best substitute, in terms of mimicking the drape of Burnish. Santolina is a blend of cotton, bamboo, and hemp, and both bamboo and hemp are exceptionally drapey fibers!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili. I appreciate the advice.
Hi Soho Purl,
I love this pattern and how clear the instructions are. I am hoping to gift this to a colleague, but I’m nervous that I’ll run out of time. So for planning, how many sets of the pattern is typical to reach the full length?
Thanks
Hi Kiki,
Thanks for reaching out! Since the row gauge of this pattern is 32 rows in 4 inches, then you would need to knit about 560 rows to reach 70 inches. The pattern repeat is 12 rows, so you would need to work about 46 pattern repeats to reach 70 inches in length. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
HI! I’ve read most of the questions and answers and am still having trouble with row 5. What does “pass on the right side” mean? PSSO??? I’m an intermediate knitter but have not hear the pass on the right side before. I’m assuming you must move the markers over one to do this row. Then I’m assuming you can replace them??
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! I’m afraid that I’m not seeing the part of the pattern you’re referring to. Here’s what Row 5 says:
Row 5: K2, k2tog, *yo, k5, yo, slip 1 knitwise, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, yo, k4, k2tog, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, yo, k3.
I’m seeing that it mentions “pass slipped stitch over,” which is the same thing as the abbreviation PSSO!
All the best,
Lili
thanks so much for answering! I don’t know what I was doing but I’ve got it straight now!!!! My error for sure!!! But thanks anyway. Always nice to know someone is out there to help!!!! 🙂 Susan
You’re very welcome, Susan!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Purl Soho – I am contemplating making a third wedding shawl – my favorite Purl Soho pattern. Thus far I’ve made it in Burnish, which was amazing, and in Santolina, which was less so, in my opinion. I’m looking for a yarn that drapes well and has some of the luster I associate with Burnish. Would Quartz be a good yarn for this project? Thank you.
Hi Diane,
We’re so glad to hear that you love this pattern! Of all our current yarns, Santolina is the most similar to Burnish in terms of the drape and luster, although you’re right that it’s not exactly the same. Quartz would be another different, but still lovely, choice for this shawl though! Since Quartz is made from animal fiber (alpaca and wool), it’ll be a lot fuzzier and warmer than both Burnish and Santolina. But of all animal fibers, alpaca is known for it’s really good drape, so that quality will definitely be consistent with your other shawls!
All the best,
Lili