Faceted Yoke Pullover
Like a tranquil current diverted in its path, our Faceted Yoke Pullover deftly blends drama with fluid ease, and like nature’s own designs, it is both distinctive and timeless, robust and refined.

This top-down knit begins with an I-Cord Cast On, a very polished place to start. We love how it provides a smart edge along the neckline, all in one step. Don’t worry, we explain everything in our new I-Cord Cast On Tutorial!

From there, increases spread out along either side of a central panel in beautiful ripples of twisted rib, which give way to a placid surface of stockinette stitch down the body. More twisted rib at the bottom hem and cuffs, with a neat, tubular bind-off, finishes it all with a thoughtful ta-da!

For crisp stitch definition and a wonderfully cozy feel, we used our gorgeous Understory, a light worsted baby alpaca-yak-silk blend. And our Faceted Yoke Pullover is the perfect canvas for the three new colors that just joined the collection: Ash Blue (shown here), Blue Bayou, and Earth Black. With deep earthy tones, textural depth, and tensile strength, Understory and our Faceted Yoke Pullover are as beautiful as nature intended!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!

UPDATE: NOW IN KNITTING YARN!
FEBRUARY 2024

Both soft and structured, delicate and strong, the captivating play of lines of our Faceted Yoke Pullover is crisp and clear in beautiful Knitting Yarn. And its 100% merino wool softness and warmth will make this sweater an enduring favorite!
Designed for Purl Soho by Mary Anne Benedetto.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoFacetedYokePullover, and #PurlSohoUnderstory. We can’t wait to see what you make!
MATERIALS

- 4 (5, 5, 6) (6, 7, 7, 8) skeins of Purl Soho’s Understory, 50% baby alpaca, 25% baby yak, and 25% silk. Each skein is 250 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 985 (1080, 1230, 1340) (1500, 1620, 1730, 1860) yards required. We used Ash Blue and Silver Berry.
- US 6 (4 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 6, 32-inch circular needles
- Set of US 6 double pointed needles
- Spare 32-inch circular needles, US 6 or one or two sizes smaller
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- Stitch markers (including one unique marker for end of round)
- A Faceted Yoke Pullover PDF
GAUGE
21 stitches and 31 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
25 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in 1×1 Twisted Rib
SIZES
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
37 (40¾, 44½, 48½) (52¼, 56, 59¾, 63½)
To fit actual chest circumference of 31–34 (35–38, 39–42, 43–46) (46–49, 50–53, 54-57, 58-61) inches, with approximately 3-6 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 37 (40¾, 44½, 48½) (52¼, 56, 59¾, 63½) inches
- Finished Length From Back Neck To Bottom Edge: 20¾ (21¼, 22¾, 23¼) (24¾, 25¼, 25½, 26¼) inches
- Finished Length From Underarm To Bottom Edge: 13¼ (13¼, 14¼, 14¼) (15¼, 15¼, 15¼, 15¼) inches
- Finished Sleeve Length From Cuff To Underarm: 18 inches
SAMPLE: The sweaters pictured here are size 37 inches modeled with 5 inches of ease.
PATTERN

The Faceted Yoke Pullover is available as a PDF download only.

Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
What is the level of difficulty for this garment? I am somewhere between beginner and intermediate level knitter. Thanks!
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out! I would say that this pattern is a bit more on the advanced side of intermediate! We use an i-cord cast on (for which we have an excellent tutorial), a tubular bind-off, twisted rib at the yoke, cuffs and hem as well as short row shaping. If these are techniques that you are up for trying, then this could be a great option for you!
Best,
Cassy
How difficult would you rate this pattern?
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! I would say that this pattern is a bit more on the advanced side of intermediate! We use an i-cord cast on (for which we have an excellent tutorial), a tubular bind-off, twisted rib at the yoke, cuffs and hem as well as short row shaping. If these are techniques that you are up for trying, then this could be a great option for you!
Best,
Cassy
What is the skill level required for this completion of this pattern?
Thank you,
Hi Kimberly,
Thanks for reaching out! I would say that this pattern is a bit more on the advanced side of intermediate! We use an i-cord cast on (for which we have an excellent tutorial), a tubular bind-off, twisted rib at the yoke, cuffs and hem as well as short row shaping. If these are techniques that you are up for trying, then this could be a great option for you!
Best,
Cassy
Could the garment be lengthened??
Hi Johanna,
Great question! You could very easily lengthen either the sleeves and body of this sweater – since it is knitted from the top down, you will simply continue knitting the body and/or sleeves until you reach your desired length. You can even place the stitches on a holder or long circular needle to try on the sweater as you go to make sure you stop at the perfect length!
Best,
Julianna
Hi, I was wondering if it is possible to make the a high neck( mock neck / roll neck) with this pattern??
Hi Shivika,
Thanks for reaching out! While we don’t have instructions for making the neckline any narrower, you could work an inch or two of twisted rib before beginning the short rows to give the sweater a wide funnel neck. Understory is quite drapey so the extended ribbing won’t stand up stiffly on its own, but otherwise the effect will be quite similar to our Twisted Rib Pullover neckline.
Best of luck and please let us know how your version turns out!
Julianna
Hi
Can’t understand the sample size you give.
Is the model a size 38.75” bust and, if so, what size was knitted as this measurement falls between 2 sizes?
Beautiful garment.
Hi Ann,
Thanks for writing in! How embarrassing! We had a typo when noting the sample size. It now reads “The sweaters pictured here are size 37 inches modeled with 5 inches of ease.” So that is to say that the model’s bust measurement is 32 inches and we knit the size 37 including 5 inches of positive ease. We recommend 3-6 inches of positive ease for this lovely sweater!
Best,
Cassy
Beautiful sweater! Too bad it’s a top-down!
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! There are so many ways to construct sweaters – pieced, top down, or bottom up are the main ones – and each knitter has their preferred method. Top-down sweaters are quite popular due to the fact that there is little to no finishing or seaming involved and the ability to try them on as you go, but we totally understand if it’s not your favorite way to knit a sweater! If you prefer bottom up construction, you may want to take a look at our Lightweight Raglan Pullover, Paint Pail Pullover, or Peaks Pullover.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
My bust measurement is approximately 42-42 1/2. Would you recommend size 44 1/2 or 48 1/2 for this sweater? Thank you!
Hi Amy,
Thanks for reaching out! Since you are between sizes, you could really go either way depending on how you would like the sweater to fit. For a snugger, more form-fitted look, I would suggest the 44 1/2 size, or for a boxier, relaxed fit, the 48 1/2 size. If you still aren’t sure, you could measure the bust of a sweater you already own and like, either hand knit or store bought, and select the finished size that is most similar to your sweater.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Ha! Ha! I had the same question about the sample size and couldn’t image why I couldn’t make sense of it. I’m so glad Ann asked – thanks. This is a beautiful sweater. Just wondering if I have what it takes to make it.
Already purchased pattern too small wording. How to transfer to tablet
Hi Janet,
Thanks for writing in! You can certainly download another copy of the pattern onto your tablet or another mobile device! To do so, visit http://www.purlsoho.com in the internet browser on your tablet and log into your account – you can find the link for this at the bottom of the home page. Once you are logged in, in the left sidebar, you will see a link titled “My Downloadable Products.” Here, you can download a copy of any PDF you have purchased from us on your tablet or computer!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am just starting the pattern and have the icord cast on completed (more or less – joining the ends still does make much sense to me but it’s done, maybe) and the first section puzzles me. Do I knit the short row over the first set of stitches (in my case 54 (27 x (1 p +1k))) and then do the next five rounds only over these stitches to create one set of short row. And after that knit all the way around the piece (128 stitches) placing markers or are there other set of short rows?
Hi Sandy,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you have it – there are six short rows total in the short row portion of the yoke, and they are all worked over that first 54 stitches, leaving the rest of the cast on stitches unworked. Once you are done with the six short rows, you will then knit a round over all the stitches on the needle. These are also the only short rows in the pattern so the rest of the pattern should be smooth sailing!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thanks. So that I understand the pattern and construction of the sweater, where do the short row fall in the neckline? From the stitch count, I think they fall over the right shoulder to the back of the sweater. Is this used to give the back a slightly higher line than the front? Thanks again.
Hi Sandy,
The short rows are actually centered on the center back neck, but you are correct in that they raise the back neckline slightly so the sweater sits better on your shoulders and upper back without pulling up too much in the front.
Best,
Julianna
I, too, would prefer the neckline to be a little higher. I am considering starting the pattern with a smaller needle. Or maybe starting with a smaller size. Do you think either suggestion would work?
Hello Starknitter,
Thank you for reaching out! The tricky part about doing something like this, is avoiding any disruptions to the fit of the body of the sweater. I think that going down in needle size will have the least amount of consequences, but might stiffen the fabric a bit. One option could be to knit a couple of rows before starting the short rows to add a touch more fabric pushing the neckline slightly up.
I hope this helps and happy experimenting!
-Marilla
Hi there! Excited to start my Faceted Yoke Pullover! I’ve never done an i-cord cast on before and while your tutorials on the provisional cast-on and the i-cord cast-on are both great, I’m confused about how they fit together. I did my provisional cast-on with scrap yarn, but since the i-cord involves lifting up the stitch from the row below, it seems that the scrap yarn is now incorporated into the i-cord itself and I’m unsure how to remove it at the end. Is this correct? Thanks!
Hello Magdalena,
Thank you for reaching out – this is a great question! After you have done your provisional cast on you knit 4 stitches and slid the back to the left needle. This means that when you work into the stitch below for this round you will be working on of those 4 stitches that you just knit. Once you have completed your cast on you use the provisional cast on to graft the two ends together to create a seamless neck.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I have the same question, but the answer still leaves me perplexed. For the first row of the icord you need to pick up a stitch from the row below, but the rowe below (even after knitting one row) will be the scrap yarn from the provisional cast on. Should you actually knit 2 rows? Thank you.
Hi Courtney,
Thanks for reaching out! Although you will be knitting into the stitch from the row below to make one, that stitch will not be staying on the needle and it shouldn’t interfere with taking out the provisional cast on when you are done working the i-cord.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Is this Twisted Rib stitch the same as that used in the Twisted Rib Pullover?
Hi June,
Thanks for reaching out! Although the two stitch patterns appear very similar, they are slightly different! In the Twisted Rib Pullover, only the knit columns are knit as twisted stitches, while the purl columns are regular purls; however, in our Faceted Yoke Pullover, both the knits and purls are twisted. The difference is quite subtle, but when all the stitches are twisted, the ribbing falls open a bit more rather than pulling in.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi, reading through the pattern and having a little trouble understanding this last section in the Body:
Increase Round: [K6 (5, 5, 5, 5, 5), m1L] 30 (2, 6, 10, 14, 18) times, [k7 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6), m1L] 2 (34, 34, 34, 34, 34) times.
What does the 2 between the two bracketed sections in the second half of the clause denote?
Hello Michelle,
Thank you for reaching out! The numbers inside the parentheses are the number of stitches to knit for each size. For example if you were knitting the smallest size you would do the following; [K6, m1L] 30 times, [k7, m1L] 2 times. And if you were knitting the largest size you would;[k5, m1L] 18 times, [k6, m1L] 34 times.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I think this is a beautiful sweater, but the pattern is very difficult to follow. It isn’t clear where to start on the short rows, no mention of putting some stitches on a stitch holder to do the back section, the pattern stitches (twisted ribbing) are not explained in a separate note. I have cast on and done the i-cord neckline but the kitchner seaming didn’t work.
I have done i-cord, kitchner and short rows many times, but this is very confusing.
Hello Brenda,
Thank you for your feedback- I’m sorry to hear you are having such a frustrating experience! I hope I can clear a couple of things up for you. After you have done your cast on you jump right into your short rows for your back shaping so there is no need to put any of your stitches on stitch holders. The only part of the pattern where you will need to use stitch holders is for the “Separate Body and Sleeves” section. This section will go into detail regarding which stitches need to be placed on stitch holders.
The twisted rib stitch is completed by simply “knitting knits through back loop and purling purls through back loop”. You can find this little description under “Short Rows 3 and 4:”.
I hope this clears things up for you and let us know if you have any further questions!
Warmly,
Marilla
Love this! I’ve used the provisional cast on and have 4 stitches waiting on waste yarn. I’ve cast on 112 stitches using the I-cord method. After the Kitchener graft, should I have 112, or 108 stitches on my needles?
Hi Jen,
Great question! The original four stitches do not count as part of your cast on, so you should have 116 stitches on your needle before working the kitchener stitch and have 112 when you begin the sweater.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi,
I am working on the sweater in size small for my daughter. She loves the pattern.
I am ready to start decrease rows, but I have lost track of where I am with markers.
Is the back the same number of stitches as the front? If so, I can have 71 stitches in the front and back, 25 on each side of the 21 stitch yoke piece and 36 for each sleeve and end up with 219 stitches. Can I evenly decrease until I get that many stitches?
If not could you tell me where I am supposed to have the markers because I did not come out in the right place when I tried decreasing.
I would like to make another of this pattern now that I have figured it out, sort of.
Thanks,
Brenda
Hello Brenda,
Thanks for reaching out! If you are making the smallest size you should have 256 stitches before you begin your deceases. After completing the round “Repeat last 4 rounds 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) more times, then work first 3 rounds once more. [256 (264, 288, 288, 312, 336) stitches] ” Your round should look like this- Beginning of round Marker, 51sts, Marker, 21sts, Marker, 51sts, Marker, 5sts, Marker, 51sts, Marker, 21sts, Marker, 51sts, Marker, 5sts.
“You will then remove all but three of your markers in the following round; Next Round: [Work in pattern to next marker, remove marker] 4 times, [work in pattern to next marker, sm] 2 times, work in pattern to next marker, remove marker, work in pattern to end-of-round marker, remove marker, work 19 (19, 21, 21, 23, 25) stitches in pattern, replace marker for new end-of-round. [3 markers remain]”
After completing this round your set up should be- Beg of round marker, 160sts, marker, 21sts, marker 75sts.
This sets you up for your Decrease Round after which you should have 214 stitches with 71 stitches each for Front and Back; 36
stitches for each Sleeve]
I hope this all makes sense and let me know if I can clarify any of this!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hello again,
I have made progress on the sweater. I am ready to do the shaping for the raglan sleeves, but had to sketch out the stitches for each section and place markers to figure out what I was doing so my markers I think, are not where the pattern calls for them. Can you tell me where the 8 increases are to go? Is one before and after each side section? Or at each side of the sleeve stitches? I would like to suggest adding a little description with the pattern such as the short rows will be at the back neck, the yoke is knit with two center panels with two side panels int he front and back. It would be helpful for me since I need to visualize what I am doing. Others may be more skilled at following a pattern without any cues about where you are in the garment.
Thank you for your patience with me.
Brenda
Hello Brenda,
Thank you for writing!
The increases will be worked in the sections to either side of the center back and center front sections. This means that your increase stitches are situated between your shoulders and center front and back. This means that your first increase (M1L) is at the beginning of your back stitches. You then knit your next maker, which is marking your center back section, and do you second increase (M1R).
I hope this helps you visualize whats going on and let us know if you have any further questions!
Warmly,
Marilla
Thank you so much. That helps me a great deal. I hope to make this sweater again while I think I have an idea of how to knit it.
Brenda
I’m also confused about the 1st increase round. The pattern indicates that there are 8 markers, but below Marilla says there are 5 markers. She also says that the increases are situated in the shoulder section, but further below Juliana says the increases are not made in the center back, center front, or shoulders. It would be helpful if the pattern indicated which sections are increased. thanks, Leslie
Hello Leslie,
Thank you for reaching out and for this incredibly helpful comment. In the above comment I did not explain the increases correctly. Juliana is correct in her excellent explanation of this section. There should be a total of 8 markers and the increases will be worked in the sections to either side of the center back and center front sections. Thank you for bringing this to my attention, I will correct the above comment!
My apologies for any confusion caused by this!
-Marilla
I appreciate the response, Marilla! So to clarify, I have 8 sections and I’m increasing 2 stitches in every other section, starting with the 1st center back panel (I’m making the smallest size, so that section has 15 stitches). In the next center back panel (21 stitches) no increase is made. Next section is back left shoulder–increase 2 stitches, etc. Is that correct?
Hi Leslie,
You are correct, you are increasing every other section. Your first 15 stitch section is increased to 17 stitches, then you have your 21 stitches with no increases, and once again you your 15 stitches that are increased to 17 stitches. In other words, your four sections of 15 stitches are where your eight increases are located.
It seems like you are right on track – let us know how it goes!
-Marilla
I will! I’m looking forward to moving ahead on this beautiful sweater. Thanks, Marilla!
I am hesitant to start as the back of the sweater appears to pucker once the pattern is done and the SS stitch starts. Is that true and does it pucker on the front also?
Hi Irene,
Thanks for reaching out! Although the transition may appear slightly puckered before blocking, this should block out quite easily. Our samples all transition smoothly from the twisted rib to the stockinette on both the front and back!
Best,
Julianna
I made one for my daughter-in-law and just finished the woke for my second one for my daughter. I used a wool yarn that has more body (I imagine) than the alpaca based blend of Understory and the neckline has a lovely “stand-up” quality and it blocked beautifully. When they unwrap them and put them on I will post a pic on Ig with #facetedyokepullover. Thanks for this great stylish pattern.
Lovely sweater! I’m working on the yoke , just finished the set up round & ready for increase round 1. Am I making increases at the beginning of each marker? It sounds like there are 2 increases at center back. But unsure where the rest of the increases are.
Thanks for your help.
Hi Regina,
Thanks for reaching out! During increase round 1, you will actually not be increasing in the center back, center front, or shoulder sections. The increases will instead be worked in the sections to either side of the center back and center front sections. It’s a bit tricky to think out, but if you follow the pattern, I think it will become clear after a few rows! It may also be helpful to draw a diagram with the placement and name of each marker as given in the setup row so you can see where exactly the increases will go.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I have just learned to use German Short Rows and would prefer to use that method rather than wrap and turn on the yoke. Can you give me some guidance on how to do that? Thank you!
Hi Maxine,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have a tutorial for German Short Rows, and they do not always work as a direct substitution for Wrap and Turn short rows without some modifications. I would suggest searching for “Substituting German Short Rows” to find some good resources on how to re-work patterns to use German Short Rows in place of Wrap and Turns.
Best,
Julianna
I am thinking this would be lovely in a linen. Any thoughts on how to make Linen Quill work for this pattern?
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! Linen Quill is quite a bit smaller than Understory, but it might work well held double! Another option would be our Flax Down, which has the very similar fiber content including the same 15% linen as Linen Quill but is a heavy DK weight yarn that knits up at the same gauge as Understory.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi! I’ve just started working on this sweater and I’m already a little confused. At the neckband it says to cast on for my size, then asking me to see notes, which tells me to cast on 4 using the provisional method. Which one do I do first? Am I casting on those 4 sts and following those two rows until i reach the cast number for my size ? Or are those 4 stitches separate and then Im supposed to cast on the stitches for my size on another set of needles ?
Hope this makes sense. Thanks!
Hi Karo,
Thanks for reaching out! This is one of the trickier steps in the Faceted Yoke Pullover! You will be using the I-Cord cast on method to begin the sweater, which does begin with four stitches cast on provisionally. You will then knit these 4 stitches with your main yarn, and begin repeating Row 2 of the I-Cord Cast On. Each time you work Row 2 you will be casting one more stitch on the needle, so you will continue to repeat it until you have 4 more stitches on the needle than you need for your size.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hello! I have just started the faceted yoke pullover and I am very confused!
According to your provisional cast on video, the method entails using scrap yarn.
If you then use the icord cast on method as per the pattern, then after you have knit the first 4 stitches, the next row calls for you to pick up the right leg of what is the waste yarn, which would mean incorporating the waste yarn into the garment.
Is the first row of the working yarn as “cast on row” or is it row one?
Thanks!
Erin
Hello Erin,
Thank you for reaching out! Your first row is knit 4 and then in your second row you will be going into your first row. You shouldn’t have to incorporate your scrap yarn, because your scrap yarn will be a row below the row you are going back into.
I hope this makes sense and let me know if I can clarify anything for you.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi, I have 4 skeins of understory, purchased in December, and would need a 5th for this sweater. Is colour-matching an issue with this yarn?
Thanks
Hello Sujata,
Thank you for reaching out! This yarn does have dye lots on their tags so, if possible, it would be ideal to get another skein in the same lot. You can always call us to find out if we still have some of that same dye lot, before purchasing your skein, though because you bought your yarn in December it is pretty unlikely. If you buy another skein of another lot, all you have to do it single row stripe for a few rows to avoid a line forming from where you changed lots.
I hope this makes sense and let us know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Is there another bind off technique that you could recommend besides the Tubular Bind Off? I’m not very proficient at the Kitchner Stitch, so the idea of using that method with over 200 stitches is rather daunting.
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! While we used a Tubular Bind Off because it’s quite stretchy, you could certainly substitute a standard bind off worked in pattern if you prefer! Just be sure to work it loosely, possibly even using a needle one size larger than you did for the rest of the ribbing, so that the hem of your sweater doesn’t turn out too tight.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Is their a cotton or cotton blend yarn you might suggest for this pattern?
Hello Carrie,
Thank you for reaching out! While we don’t have a cotton yarn that has the correct gauge for this sweater, you can use any yarn that has a gauge of 21 stitches and 31 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch.
I hope this helps and let us know how it goes!
-Marilla
Hello! I’m loving working on this pattern but am new to knitting and am not entirely sure what I’m doing! I’m working on the yoke, and I’ve done the first four rounds twice (so 8 rounds in total). On the 8th round (working in pattern, working increased stitches as p1 tbl) it works out so I have three pearl stitches in a row where the increases are. Is this right or I have a done something wrong? I’m worried this is something wrong and it will mess up the pattern.
Thanks
Erin
Hi Erin,
Thanks for reaching out! It does sound like you might have made a mistake by either working the wrong increase or repeating the wrong row – all the increases should alternate between M1L or M1R, which creates a knit stitch, and M1P, which creates a purl stitch. If you are confident at picking up dropped stitches, I would suggest dropping the center purl stitch and picking it up as a knit, or you could go back to before this increase row to work the correct increase.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I have two questions I’m hoping you can help with.
Is the beginning of round marker (where the kitchener graft takes place) at the center back? I’m a little confused by the short rows because they never seem to cross back over the beginning of round marker and seem to be very short rows of 50 stitches or less. Is this right?
The round of cast on stitches after I do the i-cord cast on seem stretched out and not as tightly up against the i-cord as in the sweater pictured here or others I see. Do you know what I’m doing wrong? Should I size down my needle for the cast on to try to help with this?
Hi Rebecca,
Thanks for reaching out! The initial beginning of the round is not at the center back, but is rather over the right shoulder. After you have completed the short rows, in the next set up row you will place several new markers, including one for the center back which will be centered over the short rows.
The stitches should be fairly snug up against the I-Cord cast on – is it possible that you weren’t knitting the picked up stitches through the back loop or were picking them up in the wrong direction? Working these added stitches should be similar to working a M1L. I would try the cast on again and double check that you are picking up the stitch from back to front with your left hand needle and then knitting it through the back.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi, I’ve been having fun learning new techniques in this pullover. I have made some mistakes, but practice makes perfect right. I’m having trouble understanding the section where the markers are placed top right of pg 3.
I am doing the 481/2″ size with a total of 128 stitches. I have counted and placed the markers at the stated intervals. After the last marker for 17 stitches, it says to work 5 stitches, slip end of round marker. the problem is that after working the 5 stitches, I still have 5 on the left needle before the end of round marker. Then it says I should have 7 markers: 8 in total. At the moment I have the 6 new markers and the 1 end of round marker. do I place another marker after knitting the 5 stitches which would make 8??
It’s amazing that I got through all the tricky bits and this seemingly easy bit has me stumped. I would appreciate your help. Thank you XX
Hi Rebecca,
Thanks for reaching in! I think you missed placing either the marker for the Back Left Shoulder or Front Left Shoulder, which would be the third or fourth marker. It’s easy to miss this section because it is 5 stitches for all sizes, so it doesn’t stand out as much as the other stitch counts which have multiple sizes given! This is in the 6th line of this paragraph. Once you have the markers placed correctly for your size, following the beginning of round marker, the marked sections should be 17 stitches, 25 stitches, 17 stitches, 5 stitches, 17 stitches, 25 stitches, 17 stitches, and 5 stitches.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi PS,
I’m enjoying making a bit of a mess of this lovely pattern, but I’m learning lots. I’m trying the tubular bind off at the bottom of the body for the first time, and my Kitchener stitch looks dreadful. I’ve tried knitting with a contrast marker thread alongside so I can track the cause but it’s no good. Does it make a difference if I slipped the knits and slipped the purls in their respective rows thought the back loop? I thought that’s what the pattern assumed but maybe it should have been through the front? I wonder whether the twist is throwing my Kitchener out. Maybe it’s just a bad job on my part though! Not looking forward to unlocking my current Kitchener count or unlocking the 2 preceding rows either!
Hi Lucy,
Thanks for reaching out! It is actually quite necessary to have the stitches oriented the right direction for kitchener to work out properly. When rearranging the stitches, or any other time that you are slipping stitches, you should always slip them purlwise unless the pattern specifies otherwise, because the stitches will not get twisted if they are slipped purlwise. At this point, you might want to take a quick pass slipping all the stitches so that they are not twisted. If you prefer, you could always work a loose, normal cast off in pattern instead of the tubular bind off.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
I’m enjoying learning new techniques with this sweater, but I’m having trouble with the provisional cast on and I-cord. I’ve gotten he hang of the I-cord, but those first few stitches are sooo loose. I’ve tried pulling the yarn snug for the first few rows, but the next thing I know those first few stitches are really loose again. Will this matter later when those stitches are grafted?
Thanks,
Karen
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! It shouldn’t matter that the stitches next to the provisional cast on are loose – since they are attached to the unsecured tail of yarn, you can tighten them up right before working the kitchener stitch and even again before weaving that end in if necessary.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thanks. I’m having difficulty understanding the number of cast on stitches and how to join the stitches. The pattern says: Join in round as follows: Place I-Cord Cast On’s 4 on-hold stitches . I don’t have any stitches on a holder. Does “on hold” mean the last four stitches I cast on? Also, in a previous comment you answered “The original four stitches do not count as part of your cast on”. If The pattern instructions say cast on 120 stitches for the size I am making, does that mean I actually cast on 124?
Thanks,
Karen
Hello Karen,
Thank you for reaching out! This can be a confusing part of the pattern, I think I know what has happened. In the notes section of the pattern you will find a more detailed description of what you are doing. BEFORE casting on you your 120 stitches, you provisionally cast on 4 stitches with scrap yarn. These four stitches are what you will kitchener stitch together with your last four stitches that you placed on a holder.
I hope this makes sense and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I would love to make this sweater and started working on it but the ICord cast on and neck are just too hard for me. It looked awful. Is there an alternate neckline/cast on I could use? Thank you, and thanks for the pattern. Maybe just rolled? Chris Seidel
Hi Chris,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m so sorry to hear that you are having troubles with the cast on! I do think you could get a similar effect by using a long tail cast on and working three or four rows of stockinette stitch so the edge curls slightly, or you could always go straight into the twisted rib stitch from the cast on if you prefer.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am enjoying knitting this sweater but I just need a bit of help please….I have arrived at SEPARATE BODY + SLEEVES, I have slipped the 56 onto stitch holder but I am not sure about where I am to cable cast on – are the 6 stitches to go onto the left hand needle or onto the 56 stitches on stitch holder ? Then I have to PM and do another 6 cable stitches but I am not sure if the 12 extra stitches will be part of the working stitches or not, I can’t seem to visualize it.
Thanking you in advance.
Sara
Hello Sara,
I hope I can help! Your 12 stitches that you cable cast on are your underarm stitches, 6 stitches for each underarm. This means that they will be part of your working stitches or the body of the sweater.
I hope this makes sense and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I bought this pattern yesterday. My gauge swatches are coming out too big. I have downsized the needles twice. Last swatch was knit on 3mm (US size 3) needles and my swatches of stockinette and 1×1 twisted rib are still too large. I normally need to go down a needle size to get gauge but this seems extreme! Am I misunderstanding something? I’m going to try on 2.5mm needles next but the needle seems very small for the yarn. Any advice?
Hi Mary Beth,
Thanks for reaching out! Is it possible that your yarn is heavier than ours? Understory is a light worsted or heavy DK weight and we haven’t heard of any issues getting gauge with this weight of yarn; however, if you are using a true worsted weight, you would have to move down several needle sizes to get the correct gauge and the resulting fabric might be quite stiff. If, however, you do get the right gauge with the smaller needle sizes and are happy with how the fabric feels, then I would continue with that needle!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Lovely pattern. I have almost reached the end of the body, just ahead of the final increase round. At some point I dropped the end of round marker. Going back and looking at the directions for moving the end-of-round marker, I think it should line up with the beginning of the center back patterned panel. Is that correct? Thank you and I’m learning a lot from this fun pattern.
Claudia
Hi Claudia,
Thanks for writing in! Since you removed several markers right before beginning the body, the Beginning of Round marker should have actually been right before the first stitch of the back; however, since the increases in this row are evenly spaced all around the sweater, it won’t be a problem to use one of the underarm markers as the Beginning of Round marker for the rest of the sweater!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I love this pattern and even though I made a few mistakes in the beginning I’ve reached the bottom of the body and I’m about to knit the increase row that adds 32 stitches to the body (smallest size). The body looks just right and I’m afraid it will look awfully wide if I add that many stitches. I have small hips. I might continue without the increase. Will that make the hem too tight? I know I have a better idea of what looks good on my body but thought to reach out for your input. Much appreciate it!
Hi Martha,
Thanks for reaching out! We added this row of increases because the ribbing at the bottom of the sweater contracts or pulls in more than stockinette – when you work the decreases, the ribbing will turn out the same width as the rest of the body. If you prefer a blousier look, you could certainly omit the decreases if you wish.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello,
This is yet another gorgeous pattern that I’ve added to the knitting queue! I prefer using German Short Rows and your tutorial was fantastic – I was easily able to adapt the Top Down Circular Yoke Pullover with no hassle.
Is this pattern suitable to adapt to German Short Rows? For example, are the modifications I’ve made below correct for the first two short rows?
Short Row 1 (right side): [P1 through back loop (p1 tbl), k1 through back loop (k1 tbl)] 23 times, p1 tbl, purl one more stitch tbl. Turn work. Slip next stitch, tug working yarn to bring up double leg, bring yarn between needles so it’s at the front, ready to purl.
Short Row 2 (wrong side): [k1 tbl, p1 tbl] 21 times, k1 tbl, knit one more stitch tbl. Turn work. Bring yarn to front. Slip next stitch, tug working yarn to bring up double leg. Yarn is at the back, ready to knit.
Thanks so much! Your responses are always so friendly and your patterns are by far the easiest to follow.
Cheers,
Sarah
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m so happy to hear you are enjoying German Short Rows – they are my favorite way to work short rows as well! You almost have the conversion right, but you should continue to work the German Short Row Stitch in pattern. So, for your first row, instead of purling one more stitch, you will knit one more stitch to keep it in the rib pattern, and vice versa for the second row. Also, when resolving these stitches after the short rows are complete, you will want to knit or purl the double stitches through the back loop so they match the twisted rib.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi:
When you are knitting twisted stitches and you have to undo ? Because you have a mistake for example.. How can you Put it another time in the needdle correctly? Because the stitches have Belen knitted twisted…
Very beatiful pullover!
Hi Carmen,
Great question! It is possible to take out a twisted stitch so it sits correctly on the needle by putting your needle into the stitch in the row below in the opposite way you normally would. For instance, if you are taking a knit stitch out from the right side, you would normally insert your left hand needle into the stitch in the row below from front to back, but if it is twisted, you will insert your needle from back to front. If all else fails, you can always reorient each stitch after you have taken it out if it is still twisted!
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you so much !!!❤️❤️❤️
HELP!
After a few false starts, I have succeeded at the i-Cord cast on.
Now, I’m stalled at the yoke…already. I’m having trouble understanding how to progress. I followed the first six short rows and wonder…where do I go from here? I’m obviously missing something. Maybe I need a knitting guru.
DOUBLE HELP!!!
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m glad you are still persevering – this pullover is a bit challenging to get started but you’re almost there! After completing the last short row, you should have the right side facing, and the next row has you work to the end of the row in the twisted rib pattern, knitting knits through back loop and purling purls through back loop, and picking up the wraps as you come to them. You may find our Short Rows: Wrap & Turn tutorial helpful for this step.
I hope that helps, and let us know if you run into any other questions!
Julianna
Hi, I am Chiara from Milano (Italy).
I did not get why the short row section (done with 54 stitches in my case) is not symmetrical with respect to the markers position for the center back panel (17+25+17).
Thank you, bye!
Hi Chiara,
Thanks for reaching out! The initial beginning of the round is not at the center back, but is rather over the right shoulder, so the short rows are not centered over this marker. After you have completed the short rows, in the next set up row you will place several new markers, and you should find that the short rows are centered over the center back panel, which is the 25 stitch section.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Would Cashmere Merino Bloom be an appropriate yarn substitution?
I was originally going to knit the Pasture Pullover but am in love with the detailed yoke and I-Cord cast on.
It looks like the wpi is the same and the needle sizes are similar between the two.
Thanks in advance!
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, I think Cashmere Merino Bloom would work quite well in this pattern! I would definitely recommend knitting a gauge swatch, especially when substituting a different yarn in a pattern, but I don’t think you will have any problems obtaining the correct gauge.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
After lots of “practice” (i.e. starting over!) with the tension for the icord cast on, I now have a beautiful edge however the number of stitches for the size 37 will not fit over my (rather large) head. The cast on is not too tight and the yarn is stretchy, but….
I can either redo the cast on with larger needles and then switch down to the size needed for gauge, or I can cast on additional stitches for a larger size and not do as many increases while knitting the yoke. Any recommendation?
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! How frustrating that must be! I would recommend working the cast on on a needle a size or two larger than the rest of the pattern, as that will require the least alteration to the pattern. If you still aren’t happy with the size of the neck, you could start with a larger size, but will then stop the yoke increases when you have the correct total number of stitches for your size before separating the sleeves from the body.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello! I’ve just finished the short rows and I am starting to increase the yoke. When it says “work” the stitches, does this mean that I should be knitting/purling through the back loops on all stitches? I’m not sure what stitch to use for all of the stitches that weren’t included in the short rows and that have been cast on. Thank you in advance!
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out! That is correct! For the yoke of this sweater, the basic pattern will be 1×1 twisted rib, which consists of knitting through back loop and purling through the back loop.
Best,
Julianna
Greetings from lockdown in Cape Town, South Africa.!Thank you for creating this lovely pattern. I’ve been trying to get this started for days but keep running into problems. I think I’ve figured out the provisional cast on and I’ve made a beautiful icord a few times now. My kitchener stitch, however, leaves a lot to be desired! It’s very loose and I end up with a garter stitch row running across the icord. If I look at the underside, I can vaguely make out what appears to be stockinette pattern. I am certain that I have my wrong sides together when I start grafting. Any idea what I’m doing wrong? Is there a different technique for using kitchener stitch if joining an icord cast on in the round than on flat pieces?
Thank you for any help with this.
Cheers,
Leigh Ann
Hi Leigh Ann,
Thank you for the kind words and for writing in! Although the technique of using kitchener to join these stitches isn’t any different from what you are used to, it can be tricky to get everything set up properly so it ends up on the correct side of the work. Since an i-cord, by its very nature, pulls together in the back, it might be difficult to determine which side of the i-cord is the right side. Before beginning the kitchener stitch, I would recommend inspecting the knitting immediately below the needle very closely, pulling down on the i-cord if necessary to reveal whether you have the knit or purl side facing. If you still are finding that the purl row created by the kitchener stitch is showing on the outside of the i-cord, you might just have to flip your needles to what seems to be the wrong side so everything turns out correctly!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Can I use German short rows instead of wrap and turns?
Since you use metric sizes in your patterns it would be really helpful if you would also include the metric needle sizes for those of us in Canada.
Thanks
Gail
Hi Gail,
Thanks for writing in! Because the yoke is worked in twisted rib, I would not recommend converting this pattern to German Short Rows – although they are my favorite short row method! We include special instructions for preserving the twisted stitches while picking up the wraps, which unfortunately do not translate to German Short Rows. We totally hear you regarding metric sizes and measurements. This is something that is currently under consideration, so we really appreciate your input!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi Juliana, Thank you for your reply to my earlier post. I’ve figured out what I need to do on the Icord. Now, can you offer some assistance on my short rows? Is there a special technique for picking up the wraps and knitting when doing twisted rib?
Thanks so much,
Leigh Ann
Hi Leigh Ann,
I’m so glad you were able to get the i-cord cast on done! There is a slightly modified method for knitting and purling the wraps together with their stitches that maintains the twisted rib pattern. You can read how to do it in the special note right at the beginning of the “Shape Yoke” section, just before the short rows begin!
Best,
Julianna
I’m looking forward to getting into the knitting of this project, but the start has been rather intimidating… So the point is to use Kitchener stitch to blend the last 4 stitches that we have added into the first 4 stitches that were done as “provisional cast-on”? So unlike in the video of Kitchener stitch, we don’t need to move the two sets of four stitches to separate double pointed needles?
Thanks…
Hi Sally,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct! You will be joining the last four stitches to the stitches revealed when you take out the provisional cast on. Although you could technically keep these stitches on the main needle, I would recommend moving them to separate needles if you have them available. You will need a new needle to pick up the live stitches from the provisional cast on anyway, and by having the last four stitches on their own needle as well, it’s much easier to see how the two ends of the i-cord will come together and make sure you have everything aligned correctly.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Well…the first time I tried this pattern, months ago, after getting to the short rows, I was so confused that I stopped and went on to other projects. I’ve been knitting for a long time. I’ve done Aran, intarsia and Fair Isle. Why can’t I figure out this pattern? First, the number of stitches don’t add up. The “yoke shaping” gives directions for short rows using 27 stitches in my case. Then “continue yoke” asks for markers between the stitches that add up to 128…the total number of stitches I have cast on. That’s the first confusion. I also find your videos don’t answer my questions. Should I just give up? I started again, determined to succeed and I’m already discouraged. GRRRR!
Hi Susan,
I’m happy to help! The yoke shaping in this pattern is a little tricky at the start. For short row 1 you will be working the twisted rib: p1 tbl and k1 tbl, 27 times for a total of 54 stitches. After short row 1 is complete, turn your work to the wrong side and work short row 2. We have a great tutorial for short rows which also includes picking up the wraps here if you need it. After the short rows are complete the initial beginning of the round is not at the center back, but is rather over the right shoulder, so the short rows are not centered over this marker. In the next set up row you will place several new markers, and work a complete row, all the way back to the beginning of the round. I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any more questions.
Best
Jessica
If I order the yarn for this yoke pullover do I still have to buy the pattern?
Hi Pippa
Thanks for writing in! You can purchase our Faceted Yoke Pullover as a download only, for $9.80. Thanks for you interest!
Best
Jessica
I have a problem with the part ”Increase yoke”
I am knitting size 40
Increase round 2: Shouldn’t the mounted purl stitch be in between the two stockinette stitches?
If I always mount before the marker, that is what is happening.
2 stockinette stitches next to two purl stitches
Please help!
Viveca W
Hi Viveca,
I’m sorry the yoke is giving you a little bit of trouble but I think I can help. Not all of the increases are preformed before the markers. Here is the first increase round: [Make 1 left (m1L), work to next marker, make 1 right (m1R), slip marker (sm), work
to next marker,*** sm] 4 times.
***Here is where I think a mistake was made. This is where you would increase after slipping the marker to the right needle. After that, you should find that the increases will all happen between two knit stitches.
I hope this helps – let me know if you need any additional help with this!
Oscar
I have a question at the decrease section immediately following the yoke section, where one breaks from the rib pattern and begins knitting most stitches. I am very unclear whether at this point I should continue to knit through the back loop, or if somewhere ahead the stitches will become untwisted and stockinette will be done normally, knitting tfl. Please let me know before I get too far into the body! I’m at the “shape raglans” section and still knitting tbl. The word “stockinette” isn’t even mentioned until right before the body/sleeve separation. I love this pattern, but agree with other posts that notes locating where in the garment we’re working would go a long way to mitigate confusion. I’m one of those knitters who likes to understand why I’m doing what I’m doing so as to better understand the construction. Thank you!
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! You will only work through the back loop if the pattern states K1 tbl, p1 tbl or “work in pattern”, so in the decrease rounds following the yoke section you will begin to work in stockinette unless it specifically tells you otherwise! So when you see k without tbl that will mean you knit normally!
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
I like this pattern except that I would like the neckline to be higher. Would that a difficult change to make? And, How would I do it?
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! At this time we don’t have instructions to adjust the neckline, but thank you for expressing your interest! I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
May I make a suggestion about joining yarns in the round? This is a pattern that requires joining yarns invisibly while knitting in the round. Felted splice or wet splice did not work for Understory. Other methods proved to look bulky and uneven. Magic knot is what I used by joining at the sides.
Please include in the instructions the best method for joining the recommended yarn for patterns that are knit in the round.
Hi Chung,
Thank you so much for your suggestion! Were you referring to the very beginning when you’re called to join in the round for the neckband or something more specific later on? I’ll be sure to pass on your note about including this to our design team in the meantime and wanted to be sure you knew that yarns like Understory aren’t able to be wet spliced since it contains inelastic materials like silk and alpaca. We recommend something that felts more easily like merino wool if trying that in the future!
All the best,
Zha Zha
Hello, photos really help me understand instructions. Do you have a way to show me the very first join in round in the neckband? I don’t want to start off wrong and I’m just not getting the written instructions.
Thanks, Laurene
Hi Laurene,
Thanks for writing in. You’ll probably find our video tutorial on the I-Cord Cast On very helpful! The neckband also uses the Kitchener Stitch, which fortunately we have a tutorial for as well. I hope these more detailed instructions help you get a better sense of how to create the beginning of the neckband!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, I bought this pattern and yarn about 6 years ago and couldn’t work out how to knit it. Since then, I have had more knitting practice and decided to give it another go. I watched the suggested videos and understood each component, but cannot see how it all fits together. “Join in round as follows: Place I-Cord Cast On’s 4 on-hold stitches and 4 stitches from Provisional Cast On onto separate double pointed needles, thread 10-inch tail on tapestry needle and join with Kitchener, being sure to not twist Neckband.” This deals with 8 stitches……where are the rest of the cast on stitches in this?? This pattern makes no sense to me and is making me really frustrated! I wish the instructions were specific to this jumper, and listed in a step by step manner rather than referring to “see notes” which a very general. I cannot visualise how the join is meant to happen. Ready to give up again. A video clip of this would be really helpful, or even a few photos showing step by step for each bit of the pattern
Also, in this pattern, are you meant to use scrap yarn for the provisional cast on?
Hi Maria,
I am so sorry that the instructions for the yoke section are frustrating, but I’m here to help! After crocheting your chain in scrap yarn and making your i-cord cast on, you will be placing on a double pointed needle the 4 stitches that were just placed on hold, and on a separate DPN, place the 4 provisional stitches that you picked up from the scrap yarn at the start your i-cord (these are at the other end of your needles and are the very first stitches that you worked).
You will then begin kitchener stitching these 8 stitches together so that they seamlessly join to create a large i-cord band that will function as the neck hole. At the 6:05 minute mark of our I-Cord Cast On tutorial, there is a mention of picking up the 4 stitches from the provisional cast on that I think would help in visualizing the neckband. Once the 8 stitches are seamed together, the rest of the stitches that were cast on are already on circular needles and ready to be knit in the round for the yoke.
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hi! Can I replace the icord cast on with a rolled purl neck? I know it won’t be quite as classy but much easier for me ! Thanks
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in. You can absolutely do a rolled purl neck for this pullover instead of an i-cord cast-on! That’s definitely a good way to reduce the trickiness of this design, and it will still look great.
All the best,
Lili
I am having difficulty understanding the “why” behind using the kitchener stitch to connect the provisional and cast-on stitches, to start knitting in the round. It simply did not look right and I took it out (actually the whole I-cord cast on). I will re-watch the videos and try once more, but it isn’t clear why this is needed. I had an odd gap between the two connected rows, after I did the kitchener stitch. Maybe I am doing something wrong?
Isn’t there an easier way to knit in the round? I may have to abandon this pattern.
Hi Ann!
Thank you for your question. The kitchener stitch helps to graft the two ends of the I-cord cast on edge together so that you can begin knitting in the round for the yoke of the sweater. You can absolutely skip this step and cast on with your favorite cast-on method instead, if you prefer. The I-cord cast on edge serves as a design element for this sweater, however you could always work an attached I-cord around the neckline later, too!
I hope this is helpful!
All the best,
Margaret
Should the m1P be made in the same direction as the earlier m1 stitches? So m1PL after markers and m1PR after markers?
Also, a couple comments say the first beginning of round is back right shoulder but with my markers in it really looks like it’s back left. Has it changed from earlier comments?
Hi Stefanie,
Thank you for writing in! You will make all the M1P stitches in the same fashion which can be found in the Notes section on page 2. With your left needle, pick up the horizontal strand between the last stitch on the right needle and the first stitch on the left needle from back to front, then purl into the front loop of the strand. [1 stitch increased]
Your BOR marker will be placed at the back right but we can see how this can be confusing at first. I found that the first set up round under the INCREASE YOKE section on page 3 really helps visualize where each of your stitches is allocated. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella