Twisted Rib Pullover
When you knit a sweater from the top down, every junction is an opportunity to make a design decision, from shaping to sizing to styling. In knitting our Twisted Rib Pullover, all of these little decisions left a trail of thoughtful details.
The trail has you work the turtleneck and raglan yoke, complete the body and split the side seams, shape the front edge and leave the back boxy. Then, you will have to do what I couldn’t: Decide on a sleeve length, cap, elbow, or long. Or you can do what I did, and knit all three!
Our Twisted Rib Pullover is in simple twisted rib stitch, which makes a distinctive and sturdy fabric, flat on the wrong side and wonderfully ridged on the right side. And in our 100% merino Worsted Twist the rib takes on a crisp definition, while the sweater itself is as soft and cozy as anything!
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
With its three sleeve lengths and classic split hem, the Twisted Rib Pullover is my new uniform. The short sleeve version is ushering me into fall, while I know before too long I’ll be cozy in long sleeves, and then cap sleeves for spring. The only real decision is which to knit first! -Laura
Update: New Colors
September 24, 2021
Even classics need to be brought up to date, and here, we are happy to report that the Twisted Rib Pullover is now sized for everyone with a 26½- to a 65½-inch chest circumference. More sizes, more people knitting, more joy!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoTwistedRibPullover, and #PurlSohoWorstedTwist. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
In addition to a Purl Soho Twisted Rib Pullover pattern, you’ll need…
- Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist, 100% merino wool. Each skein is approximately 164 yards.
- Long Sleeve Sweater: 7 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) skeins. Approximately 1025 (1120, 1265, 1390, 1525, 1645) yards required. We used Oyster Gray.
- Short Sleeve Sweater: 5 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8) skeins. Approximately 960 (1050, 1195, 1310, 1445, 1565) yards required. We used Tabby Gray.
- Cap Sleeve Sweater: 5 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8) skeins. Approximately 760 (820, 945, 1035, 1150, 1240) yards required. We used Rose Granite.
- US 7 (4.5mm), 32 or 40-inch circular needles, depending on sweater size
- US 7, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 7 double pointed needles
- 4 stitch markers including 1 of a unique color or shape for end-of-round
- A removable stitch marker
- 2 stitch holders
- A few yards of scrap yarn and size I crochet hook, for Provisional Cast-Ons
Gauge
20 stitches and 26 rows = 4 inches in Twisted Rib
To make a flat swatch of Twisted Rib…
Cast on an even number of stitches.
Row 1 (right side): * K1 through the back loop (tbl), p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): * K1, p1 tbl, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for pattern.
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
35¼ (38½, 41½, 44¾, 48, 51¼)
To fit actual chest circumference of 29¼-31¼ (32½-34½, 35½-37½, 38¾-40¾, 45¼-47¼) inches, with 4-6 inches of positive ease.
- Finished Chest Circumference: 35¼ (38½, 41½, 44¾, 48, 51¼) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Front Bottom Edge: 24¼ (24¾, 26¼, 26¾, 28¼, 28¾) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Back Bottom Edge: 16 (16, 17, 17, 18, 18) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Cuff:
- Long Sleeve Option: 16½ (16½, 17, 17½, 18, 18) inches
- Short Sleeve Option): 7¼ (7¼, 7¼, 7¾, 7¾, 7¾) inches
- Cap Sleeve Option: ½ inch
- Finished Armhole Length: 8¼ (8¾, 9¼, 9¾, 10¼, 10¾) inches
SAMPLES: The three samples pictured here are Size 38½ inches, shown with 6 inches of ease.
Pattern
Our Twisted Rib Pullover pattern is available as a PDF download.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
this looks great! Any chance of a mens version?
Hi Lauren,
I knit one of these samples and tried it on (I’m 5’5″) and it fit me great. There is no bust shaping, so as long as the chest width provided is ok for the man you are making this for, then you can easily make this for a guy. Best of luck!
-Adam
PERFECT for my daughter! Love the different sleeve lengths!
what level of ability is required for this project?
Hi Anne,
Thanks for the question! In my opinion, this is an intermediate project. It involves gauge swatching, short rows, top-down knitting, tubular cast on and cast off and rib shaping. If you think you can handle all those techniques, then I say go for it! You won’t be disappointed!
-Adam
I love the sweater and I’ll like to buy the pattern, but just have a quick question, is the twisted rib difficult to do? Is it like a cable stitch? It seems like the pattern would take forever to knit if it were a difficult stitch. Thanks, I look forward to your reply.
Hi Teresa,
Thank you for your question! The twisted rib in this pattern is K1 through the back loop, p1. So, there is a little intrigue to the stitch, but it’s not so difficult over a long project. Hope you’ll like it!
-Adam
Il pattern si può avere in italiano?
Grazie
Hi Monica,
Thanks for writing in and for your inquiry! At this juncture, our patterns are only available in English.
Best,
Cassy
Love the pattern! I’m making the sweater for my daughter who tried it on in the shop today and it was perfect except she would like the next to be narrower by about 2 inches. Any advice on altering pattern would be appreciated. Thanks! Looking forward to knitting it and having her wear it.
Hi Aimee,
Thanks for the kind comment! I’m assuming she wants the neck to be narrower? Not sure if that’s what you meant. I would suggest casting on 16 less stitches and adding those missing 16 stitches into an extra increase round around the yoke/shoulder. For example, if the pattern tells you to repeat the increase rounds 13 more times, you would do it 14 more times. This seems like the most logical way to decrease the neck without compromising the shoulder width. The increase rounds add 16 stitches total throughout the four rounds, so this is why you can only decrease the neck in multiples of 16. Omitting 16 stitches will, however, shrink the neck width by 3″ total. This is like pinching in 3/4″ on each side of the neck on the sample in the store. I hope this makes sense! Good luck!
-Adam
Perfect! Thanks….looking forward to taking a pic of her in the sweater for purl busy hands. Cheers.
I am knitting this for my daughter for Christmas. She is very petite. 5’2″. 33″ bust 24″ waist. I started making the smallest size but now am questioning myself. Pattern notes say 4-6″ ease but I assume that is “negative ease” or the sweater would be baggy and not form fitting. Is this correct?
Hi Alison,
Thanks for writing in! The 4-6″ of ease listed in this pattern is positive ease. So for a 33″ bust, you would add 4-6″ and choose the nearest size. In this case the 38 1/2 size would fall into the 4-6″ of ease. If you prefer a more fitted look, you could choose a size with just 2 inches of ease. As you may be able to see on the models, the sweater fits with a nice drape and does not hug their bodies tightly. Additionally, the ribbed texture is very forgiving when it comes to fit so I think that if your daughter would like a more close fitting sweater, the 35 1/4 could work well.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Just signed up on your site, do you have any blanket or throw patterns. thanks
Hi Deborah,
Thanks for writing in! We do have quite a lot of blanket and throw patterns. In the Create section of our website, if you click on Knit and then Blankets, you can find all of the knit blanket patterns that we have put out! Here is the link to that page: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/category/knit/knit-blankets/
Happy exploring and happy knitting!
Cassy
I did the cast on as per the pattern and then the first foundation row. When I turn the work the start the next foundation row it seems as if I should start with slip with the yarn in front since the last stitch on the other side is a knit. Now I have a purl stitch on the side I am working. If I repeat the foundation row 1, I will be knitting on the purl stitches and slipping on the knit stitches. Did I do something worng?
Hi Stacy,
Thanks for writing us! It seems you have cast on an odd amount. The foundation row requires a multiple of two. This way you can Ktbl, S1 wyif, ending with a S1 wyif. When you turn your work, your first move should be to Ktbl. Let me know if you still need some help. I’d be glad to assist!
-Adam
I’m wondering if I’m doing something wrong and if anyone who has finished this project could help? I completed the neck and my set up round. On the first short row after the wrp-t I am left with 112 stitches as the pattern states for the smallest size. However, when I begin short row 2 I only have 3 stitches before the marker. The pattern says k1 ptbl 2 times. Am I doing something wrong with the wrp-t? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Thank you!
Hi Renee,
Thanks for writing in. I knitted one of the samples so hopefully I can help. Firstly, the increase round leaves you with two knits in a row for a while and after you continue the increase rounds you will end up in k1tbl, p1 formation again. This is common in rib increases. When you turn the work after the wr-t you are facing the wrong side of the fabric. Because on the face side you increase one, you’ll have to work this stitch in pattern on the wrong side. This is why you see P1tbl 2x. Once you finish four rounds of increase you’ll see the fabric form! Best of luck and let me know if you have any questions!
-Adam
Hi Adam, I’m having the same problem as Renee I think. Have read and reread the first 2 short rows and nowhere can I see P2tbl 2X or any purl 2. Can you please explain, is there an error in the pattern? Help gratefully received. x
Hi Lesley,
Thanks for writing in! I will do my best to help out! The p1tbl 2 times can be found at the beginning of short row two after you k1. That is to say, you end short row one with sm, k1 tbl, m1L, p1, wrp-t. Once you have wrapped and turned, you begin short row two and will have 3 stitches before the marker and you will k1, p1tbl, p1tbl, sm.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Thanks, will give that a go. Knitting in 39C is hot work!
Are there any patterns with the back longer than the front? Or which ones can be adjusted for this look
Hi Bonnie,
The back can be adjusted easily to be longer than the front for this pattern. You just simply knit as long as you want. Good luck!
-Adam
I’m working on this sweater now and am almost done. I loved learning the new techniques I had previously not known about, and most have been excellent, with one exception. The tubular bind off was a complete disaster. I was new to this technique so I did two sample swatches and followed the tutorial for both the
tubular bind-off and required kitchener stitch that goes with it. The swatches came out fine, but the result on the bottom of the sweater was horrible. It looked like ruffle and was way too loose. I tried several other “stretchy” bind off techniques, same result. My final solution was to eliminate the final setup rows in the instructions for this pattern. I just did a simple bindoff in pattern with a size larger needle. (My fabric was on 7s so I used an 8 for the bindoff.) I also did a simple knit 1, purl 1, without knitting through the back loop on the final row. This prevents the stitches from “slanting” as others have commented on. The bottom is plenty stretchy, but has a crisp flat look, similar to the image in the pattern booklet. Would be interested to find out if others have had this experience.
Hi Diana,
Thanks for sharing this. There are a few techniques to doing a tubular bind off. Personally, I prefer a different method than the kitchener stitch. It all depends on what think works best. The nice thing about kitchener stitch is that you can go back and tighten or loosen the tension after you’ve completed the bind off. I’d research some techniques on YouTube for other tubular bind offs and see which you like best.
Thanks,
Adam
I’ve gotten to separating for the side slits and shaping the edges. I accidentally took off the non-beginning of the round stitch marker. Should that stitch marker just be at the halfway point? i.e. I’m making the 38.5″ size–should it simply be 96 stitches, stitch marker, then 96 stitches again? thank you.
Hi Jessica,
No worries! I did the same thing when I made the sample. You just need to divide at the midpoint of the round. Best of luck!
-Adam
Please help. I am at the end of the body and about to make the side slits and realized I did not keep the markers. Pretty sure I was able to put the marker for the beginning of the round in the right place by following the first stitch at the neck all the way down, but I do not know where the marker on the other side should be. I am making the size 44 3/4.
Hi Stacy,
Thanks for writing in. No need to fret! The second marker is at the midpoint of the round. Best of luck!
-Adam
Hello-I am working on my neck of my sweater. When I am working in the round I am k tbl and doing a regular purl as the pattern notes. I just reread the swatching and it says k tbl and on wrong size p tbl. I just want to make sure I am following the correct stitch sequence as I continue. Also my last and first stitch on the round are the same…did I mess up somewhere?
Any help is appreciated!
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for writing us. For this stitch you will knit in the round doing a k1tbl, p1 stitch repeat. There is no need to p1tbl until you start the short rows or start knitting flat. Af for having the same stitch at the beginning and end of your round, you’ve probably cast one stitch too many or too few. I’d recount your stitches and make sure you have the right amount. Good luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
Hello, lovely Purl folks! Sorry to bother you, but I’m swatching for this and can’t get anywhere close to gauge because the twisted rib pulls in quite a bit, even after blocking. However, if I use needles big enough to get gauge without stretching, it’s a very sloppy fabric. How much (if at all) did you stretch the ribbing when measuring? Thanks for any advice.
Hi Andrea,
Thanks for writing us! Make sure you are swatching in the round so as to not turn your work. This will ensure a more accurate gauge since you’ll end up knitting this piece in the round. Ribbing is a hard stitch to get gauge on because it’s so stretchy. Try to get as close as you can and go with that needle size. Let us know if you have any other problems!
-Adam
Hi,
I did long-tail tubular cast off on the bottom edge. It looks awful for me. Is there any (relatively easy) way to undo long tail tubular cast off?
thanks
Hi Jessica,
Thanks for writing in. Sometimes you can take a tapestry needle and fix the tension of the kitchener stitch. If you don’t want to do this, you’ll have to rip out the kitchener stitch and the two foundation rows and bind off in pattern. The kitchener stitch method, however, is not the only way to do a tubular bind off. There are a few techniques on YouTube that you can look up. No matter which option you choose I’m sure the sweater will look great!
-Adam
Just bought the yarn very excited to get started. I would like to lengthen the body. Did you have any yarn leftover with your samples? If so do you recall how much? Thanks.
Hi Tracy,
Thanks for writing in and we are so glad that you are excited about this project! We did have a little bit of yarn left over but it was a fairly small amount. In some cases less than 1/4 or a skein. To be able to add a little length, you may need an extra skein. If you end up not needing the additional skein, unused yarn in its original condition (unwound) may be exchanged for store credit within 6 months of purchase.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Perfect. Thank you!
Hi. Quick question (hopefully) in the pattern section for shaping the yoke (short row 3 for example) when I pick up the wrap stitches should I knit through the back loop?
Hi Tracy,
Thanks for writing us. There are specific directions on how to pick up the wraps right below short row 2. I’d follow these directions and not knit the wrap through the back loop on the right side. Thanks!
-Adam
I’m getting completely lost at the yoke stage.By the end of “shape back shoulder” there are 2 parts of uneven length.The knitting in the round and getting to even lengths again doesn’t seem obvious.Where it says “continue to shape raglan” it’s still not starting to look right.What am I doing wrong?
Kind regards,
Nia
Hi Nia,
Thanks for writing in! It sounds like you are doing things correctly. In the Shape Back Shoulder section, you are building more fabric on the back of the of this sweater. This makes the neck sit correctly and slightly forward so that the sweater is comfortable to wear in the neck area. This will mean that the fabric on the back of the sweater is longer than the front. While it may look a little odd at first, I would suggest continuing on and seeing if things continue to look off. If so, it might be helpful to see a picture, which you can send to [email protected] and we will do our best to help you out!
Best,
Cassy
I followed the video tutorial for the long tail tubular cast on, but found it impossible to keep the stitches straight on the small circulars, so I cast on using straight needles and knit the two foundation rows on the straight needles before joining in the round to begin the neck on the circulars.
That left me with uneven rows at the join, and I’m not sure what to do before I go any further. Maybe I should’ve cast on with the straight needles, but then knit to the circulars starting with the first foundation row? Or sew that gap together as best I can? I have a picture, but don’t think I can paste it here. Help! 🙂
Hi Diane,
Thanks for reaching out! I can certainly understand the challenge of a large cast on! Casting on to an alternate needle and knitting a row or two can certainly help. Once you join in the round, you will then need to sew up the gap using your tail. If you are not happy with the look of this, you can certainly knit just one row or you can cast on using a longer circular needle and when you join in the round, use the correct size needle to knit off of the larger needle.
Alternately, I like to lay my cast on down on a flat surface and make sure that each stitch is oriented correctly before gently picking it up and joining in the round!
I hope that this helps! If you still have questions and would like to share an image, you can certainly write into us at [email protected] and we will do our very best to help!
Best,
Cassy
I just started this pattern and I’m worrying about the gauge. The gauge of the recommended yarn is 20 stitches per 4 inch which I assume is for stockinette. The gauge necessary in the rib pattern is also 20 stitches per 4 inches. Do I need to take a larger needle size for the rib?
Thank you in advance
Best regards
Kathrin
Hi Kathrin,
Thanks for reaching out! Gauge in rib can be a bit tricky but is vital to get the correct fit. When you knit your gauge swatch, you will want to start with the needle size suggested. I would also suggest blocking your swatch in the way that you would block your finished sweater and then measure the gauge from the blocked and dried swatch. If you gauge is off from the given gauge for the pattern at this point, you will want to go up or down a needle size to get the correct gauge, being sure to knit a new gauge swatch to ensure that you are getting gauge with the new needle.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
The skin on my neck would react to the merino wool… what would be a good alternative to this wool for this sweater?
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for writing in! I think this sweater would be lovely in our Alpaca Pure or Blue Sky Worsted Cotton!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi. I managed to lose track of what I was doing while knitting the twisted rib (as sometimes happens) and I started ktbl the purls and purling the ktbl stitches. I need to go back and fix, but when I unknit by inserting needle front to back into the stitch on the row below it looks weird. Am I supposed to insert needle back to front? Or is there another way to go back and fix?
Thanks,
Lisa
Hello Lisa,
Thank you for reaching out! Yes- we have certainly all been there. Inserting your needle back to front should work for you, though if the stitch is looking weird it might be un-twisted or over twisted which can be easily fixed by just untwisting or re-twisting the stitch when you cone to it. Depending on how far you need to go back you could also always just rip out, though this does come with more risk of dropping stitches.
Good luck and let us know how it goes!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi – I am an intermediate level knitter. I was thinking of making this sweater with Lantern (cotton and linen). Do you anticipate any difficulties using this combo?
Thanks,
K
Hi Katherine,
Thanks for reaching out! I think this sweater would be very different but quite lovely in Lantern! When substituting cotton and linen for a fitted ribbed sweater like this one, it may change the fit of the sweater because plant fibers don’t have the same bounciness or memory that wool does, so the ribbing is more likely to lay flat and stretch out some with wearing. I would recommend knitting and blocking a gauge swatch in the twisted rib stitch to see how it behaves, and you may also want to knit the sweater one size smaller than you normally would to account for the less stretchy fabric.
Best of luck and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Hello there,
I have a problem with an abbreviation on page 1: [p1tbl] 2 times. Do I purl twice in the same stitch?
Thanks,
Marie
Hi Marie,
Thanks for reaching out! No, for this step, you will be purling the next two stitches to the back loop individually. Whenever a pattern does not indicate “in the same stitch,” you can safely assume the mean to work over separate stitches!
Best,
Julianna
Hi! My mom just got me this pattern and some yarn and I’m rearin’ to get started. I have 2 questions about how to measure the gauge. I followed the instructions to knit a flat gauge swatch, starting with 30 stitches. Now I have a square swatch. I understand I should block it before measuring.
– Should I stretch it out while it’s drying? How much?
– Do I measure both knit and purl stitches when counting the gauge (I think so)?
Before blocking, without any stretching, my swatch is about 14.5 stitches/2 inches. So it will need to stretch out quite a bit to get down to 10 stitches/2 inches. But since the garment has positive ease, I’m wondering how stretched out I can really expect it to be (even after blocking). Thanks!
Hi Elena,
Great questions! Yes, you will be counting both the knit and purl columns in your gauge measurement. You should stretch out your swatch slightly while drying, but not excessively – essentially, you want to treat it the same way you plan on treating the finished sweater when you wash and block it. Wool relaxes quite a bit after a long soak, so you may find that it blocks out quite a bit wider without any stretching at all, but if necessary, you can pin it to dry, making sure to open the rib up enough to see the purl columns, but not so much that it flattens or distorts the stitches. Ribbing has a lot of elasticity, even after blocking, so the fit will be fairly forgiving in the finished sweater no matter what, but rather than trying to stretch your swatch to make it match the gauge, I would recommend blocking it to its natural width and then remeasuring to see if you need to adjust your needle size.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
What a beautiful pattern: simple, yet elegant and fresh. I made this for my wife, and when my daughter and daughter-in-law saw it they both asked for one. After 50 years knitting I’ll freely tweak or alter a pattern if I think I can improve it, ripping and reworking as much as is needed. Nothing to change with this one, though. Both design and construction are spot-on perfect. My only tweak on the second go was to the cast-on edge, which I will share:
Notes Toward a Better Italian Tubular Cast-on In the Round
1. Back-and-forth foundation rows, as in the instructions, might not be the best way to start. Judy’s Magic Cast-on is easier, quicker and offers the opportunity for a cleaner join. It’s single pass, so there’s no extra yarn in the tube from the slipped stitches. I alter the canonical method by holding the tail end away and the working end near. I start with the yarn over the back needle, which holds the stitches that become purls, so the last loop is on the front needle (will become a knit) and the working yarn is coming off the back needle. (Dunno why the standard JMCO instructions don’t do it this way!)
2. I got the best the result by doing JMCO initial cast-on with needles two sizes up from gauge, the next round one size up, and then switching to gauge size for the join round.
3. When I use other cast-ons in the round, I usually cast on an extra stitch. When I join, I slip the first (extra) stitch to the back needle and when I finish the join round I knit (or purl) that extra stitch together with its preceding neighbor. That bridges the join and avoids a bump or step between first and second rounds. To prepare for that here, when I knit the last stitch of the front needle after JMCO, I knit it and then purl through the back. That extra purl stitch becomes the slipped bridge stitch.
4. Most JMCO instructions call for working directly off the two needles with a third circular needle, knitting stitches off the front needle and purling stitches off the back needle. I don’t do that for two reasons: first, it’s too hard to control the tension and keep the work even just where it is most visible; and second, it delays the join by one round, which makes a bigger gap or “wedge” to fix later. Instead, I slip the stitches onto the third needle, starting with the front and alternating (or for 2×2 ribbing taking two at a time off each needle).
5. Here’s the trick. The last stitch to go onto the third needle will be the extra purl from step 3 above. All the stitches are now on one circular needle. As I begin the join round, I slip that extra purl onto the back needle, snug the working yarn and work the join round as regular knit and purl stitches, not TBL as per instructions. I did samples every possible way, and independent (not exactly blind) judges (my wife and daughter) had a strong preference for the sample that begins the twisted rib after a join row of regular rib. I think that’s because the regular rib flows more cleanly over and around the edge. Starting the twisted rib with the join row gives a look that is, to my eye, just a bit pinched and awkward.
Enjoy!
Joel
Hi Joel,
Thank you so much for your kind thoughts here! We are really excited to give your cast on a try!
Best,
Cassy
I really love the look of this jumper. BUT I really do not feel comfortable knitting it from top down. Just wondering if it can be done normally from the bottom upwards?
Do you have any tips how to go about it. Or you might have a pattern.
Kind regards Nada
Hi Nada,
Thank you for reaching out! This pattern is only offered working top down unfortunately. A pattern that is a similar look and works bottom up instead of top down is our beautiful Big Brioche Turtleneck pattern. Another lovely pattern I would recommend that is also a bottom up design is the Peaks Pullover. Lastly, if you are comfortable working with cables, I would recommend the Botanical Yoke Pullover it is another wonderful design of ours with bottom up construction!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I love this pattern, but have never knitted a sweater before only blankets, scarfs and hats. Would this be easy enough for a first timer or is there a better option?
Hi Theresa,
Thanks for reaching out! I think this could be a fun pattern to try out, especially if you are interested in learning how to knit a sweater top-down. I would suggest doing a swatch to practice the stitch a few times before starting the pullover to get comfortable with it, if you haven’t worked in twisted rib stitch before and also to make sure your gauge is on point with the pattern!
If you have any questions along the way feel free to write in again, we are more than happy to assist you!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
I have reached the hem on the front bottom. The suggested bind off doesn’t explain how to start in a pearl stitch. I have viewed many
tutorials, yours plus many others, and they all start with a knit stitch. Since this is a twisted knit pattern, do I pearl through the back? Or do as your tutorial suggest starting with a knit.
The instructions are difficult for me. Please explain. Thank you.
Ok, I decided to attempt this sweater. I have just unravelled the first 7 short rows. It looked as if bullets went through it. Holes! I studied the wrap and turn section and the short rows. I did have the correct amount of Stiches, but, o dear, it was horrible. I unravelled it and I will be starting again. Hope I have learned from my mistakes. It is very hard to follow instructions on a garter Stich and then do it on a rib. As I said I will try again. Just one question: The twisted rib I was knitting in the round knit one tbl and purl looked more like your rib on the wrong side. Not sure why is that.I actually prefer the look on the inside of the neck. Any way if you have any more tips for me to make this easier please send me a comment. Kind regards Nada
Hi Nada,
Thanks for reaching out! I suspect that your short rows were full of holes due to not picking up the wraps and working them together with their wrapped stitches. This is an important step that closes up the wraps and prevents holes!
I hope this helps and please feel free to reach out with any more questions going forward!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello,
Here I am again. Why is my wrong side of the pattern like the right side on your photos. Do I need to pthb and knit through front. Somehow my pattern does not look same as on photos. I am following your instructions. I am wondering g if anyone else had that problem.
Regards Nada
Hi Nada,
Thanks for reaching out! If you would like, you can email some photos of your work to our email [email protected] and we can trouble shoot further from there.
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi. Will this work for medium yarn (worsted weight size 4 )
Hi Pooja,
Thanks for writing in. This pullover was designed for worsted weight yarn, so it will definitely work!
All the best,
Lili
I am having difficulty determining the underarm cast on. It says to start with a K1 tbl but I have a purl stitch at the beginning and at the end of the row. Can you please explain what I should be doing?
Hi Aesmer,
Thanks for reaching out. Have you begun each round with a purl stitch at the beginning since starting the pullover? In the pattern, every full round starts with a k1 tbl throughout the entire design, so there’s a possibility that you’re end-of-round marker has been in the incorrect position. I hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
Is there any way to modify this pattern such that a zipper could be fitted along the midline of the front to turn it into a cardigan?
Hi Noknok,
Thanks for reaching out. I think that the simplest way to turn this design into a cardigan is to steek down the center front! To do this, I’d recommend adding a few plain stockinette stitches to the center front to have a bit of leeway where you make the cut, so that the stitches don’t unravel too much and so that you have material to sew the zipper onto. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I’ve always been terrified of steeking, but maybe this is the project I try it out on. Will this yarn work well? I’ve heard that some yarns don’t fare well to cutting. Thank you!
Hi Noknok,
Worsted Twist will work great for steeking! Because it’s wool, the fibers will stick together to minimize any unravelling. You can even felt the edges a bit as you cut to reduce the chance of this even further.
All the best,
Lili
Steeking will be a good new (but kind of scary!) skill to learn. Is there anything special that must be done with respect to steeking through the tubular cast on/off?
Hi Noknok,
No, you won’t need to do anything special with the cast-on or bind-off with respect to steeking! But I’d recommend adding a few stitches down the center in plain stockinette, so you will need to adjust your cast-on number to account for that.
All the best,
Lili