Botanical Yoke Pullover
There are some very compelling reasons to embark on our Botanical Yoke Pullover: the challenge of trying something new, the joy of wearing something lovely and handmade, and the satisfaction of working with beautiful yarn in your hands.
Our first reason for starting was our soft and sumptuous Cashmere Merino Bloom, a perfect blend of extra fine merino wool and cashmere. Its tidy spin gives wonderful stitch definition to all the twining cables of this sweater, while its downy halo of cashmere softens the edges.
Next, we turned to a simple, bottom-up yoke construction. After a good portion of easy-going 2 x 2 rib, the excitement really begins with an engaging and intuitive cabled yoke. Our Botanical Yoke Pullover Pattern details this section in both written and chart form, and it’s truly a lot less complicated than it may look!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
After all this, reason number one to knit our Botanical Yoke Pullover: it’s absolutely beautiful! Please enjoy this knitting experience, as well as the incredible reward for having finished! -Kristy
Update: New Colors
October 8, 2021
The occasion for casting on for a new version of this old classic is the arrival of nine gorgeous new colors, starting with this pretty-as-can-be Rosebud Pink. Explore the whole palette, which is now 31 colors strong, and pick the one that will be the seed for your own Botanical Yoke Pullover!
Update: Now For Dogs
November 14, 2021
What better way to show love for our canine friends than with a sweater fit for a human? Sole Salvo has done just that with her inspired Botanical Yoke Sweater For Dogs! Choose from one of 30 gorgeous shades of natural or dyed Good Wool and you and your pet will be stepping out in matching pullovers in no time!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Kristina McGowan. Click here to see even more of Kristina’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoBotanicalYokePullover, and #PurlSohoCashmereMerinoBloom. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 7 (8, 9, 10) (10, 11, 12) (13, 13, 14) skeins of Purl Soho’s Cashmere Merino Bloom, 75% extra fine merino wool, 25% cashmere; approximately 1495 (1655, 1850, 1985) (2145, 2310, 2480) (2655, 2810, 2960) yards required. We used Honey Pink.
- US 5 (3.75 mm), 32 or 40-inch circular needles, depending on sweater size
- US 5, 24-inch circular needles
- US 5, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 5 double pointed needles
- A cable stitch holder
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A Botanical Yoke Pullover Pattern
NOTE: Looking to knit your sleeves in double-time? Swap the double pointed needles for 32-inch or longer circular needles, and check out our Magic Loop: Two At A Time Tutorial!
Gauge
28 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in 2 x 2 ribbing, relaxed after blocking
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
34¼ (37¾, 41¼, 44½) (48, 51½, 54¾) (58¼, 61¾, 65¼)
To fit actual chest circumference of 29¼–31¼ (32¾–34¾, 36¼–38¼, 39½–41½) (43–45, 46½–48½, 49¾–51¾) (53¼–55¼, 56¾–58¾, 60¼–62¼) inches with 3–5 inches of positive ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 34¼ (37¾, 41¼, 44½) (48, 51½, 54¾) (58¼, 61¾, 65¼) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 24 (24½, 25, 25¼) (25½, 25¾, 26) (26½, 27, 27½) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 15 (15, 15, 14¾) (14¾, 14¾, 14¾) (15, 15¼, 15½) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Cuff: 17½ (18, 18, 18½) (18½, 18½, 19) (19, 19½, 19½) inches
SAMPLE: The sweater shown here is size 37¾ with 5¼ inches of ease.
Pattern
Our Botanical Yoke Pullover Pattern is available for purchase as a PDF download.
Update: More Sizes
January 2020
We’ve expanded the size range for our Botanical Yoke Pullover Pattern! Since last spring, all of our new sweaters fit at least a 60-inch chest. If you downloaded this pattern in the past, please update your pattern for free, either in My Pattern PDFs on your My Account page at purlsoho.com or in your Ravelry library.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
This pattern is absolutely stunning!!
oui Cathy, c’est superbe , ton prochain projet !
Not only has this gorgeous design left me gobsmacked, one could faint from the subtle yarn color choices of your Cashmere Merino Bloom.
The Botanical Yoke Pullover is absolutely gorgeous, but I don’t know if I’ve got the skills to do a sweater. How difficult is this sweater to make? I’d say I was an ‘advanced beginner’. It would be so very helpful if you’d post the knitting level or knitting expertise of your patterns. I see many of your patterns that I’d love to buy, but just don’t want to get over my head – and then discouraged. Help!
Hi Bebe,
Thanks for the kind words! I would say that this is not a good choice for a first sweater. This is more of an advanced pattern on account of the cables and short rowing at the yoke. Also, thank you for your suggestion about posting the knitting levels. We’ll keep it in consideration for future projects!
Best,
Adam
I’m an intermediate knitter and earlier this year I dreaded to do a cable pattern but was amazed at how much easier it was than I feared. Try a few sample blocks of different cable stitches. Lots of free lessons/demonstrations on internet.
Truly a stunner!
What a stunning sweater!
If only I could knit sweaters to fit.
Hi Debbi!
I couldn’t help but want to reply to your comment. I checked this book out at my local library a year ago for just this very reason:
Knit to Flatter: The Only Instructions You’ll Ever Need to Knit Sweaters that make You Look Good and Feel Great! By Amy Herzog. It was published in 2013 and has incredibly helpful tips and instructions for adapting any sweater pattern to fit our individual bodies 🙂
What knitting level would you classify this pattern as?
Thank you!!
Hi Audrey,
Thanks for writing in! It all depends on the knitter. If you’ve done cables and short rowing in a sweater before, then you can definitely take on this project. For those who haven’t, it depends on how comfortable you are following a pattern because it is quite involved when it comes to the yoke. In my opinion, I’d say this pattern is advanced-intermediate level. Let us know how it goes if you decide to knit it!
-Adam
I was really taken by this gorgeous sweater pattern – my finances cannot allow the beautiful yarn that was used. Can you recommend alternate yarn(s) for those of us with less financial freedom?
Hi Joan,
Thanks for your question and for your kind words! We understand that our yarn choices can sometimes be inspirational and I am happy offer some alternatives! Brooklyn Tweed’s new yarn Arbor could work well. Our Mulberry Merino or Flax Down would also make great substitutions.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Regarding the ease: Is it 2-4 inches bigger than the measurements, or 2-4 inches smaller?
Hi Liz,
Thanks for writing in! To choose the best size for you, measure your chest and add 2 to 4 inches. Then select the nearest size to that measurement. This size should work well and fit as the pattern intended!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi! I bought yarn and pattern today. BUT – NEED clarification. Says should have 2 inches positive ease – but is that built in or do I size up? Please advise thanks! The size to knit and finished size are same – so I tend to think it’s built in and I just size up. Thanks.
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for writing in! To choose the best size for you, measure your chest and add 2 inches. Then select the nearest size to that measurement. This size should work well and fit as the pattern intended.
Best,
Cassy
thank you!
Beautiful! I love how the cable begins and runs into the sweater. Cables pop-out with lighter colors but I’m curious how it would knit up in charcoal and salt n pepper. Gulp…
Hi Janet,
Thanks for the lovely comment! I think this would look great in charcoal, but salt and pepper might be too busy for the cable stitch to stand out. Hope you decide to knit this!
-Adam
Yes, I was thinking the same. Do you have a photo of this sweater in Charcoal or any other color?
Hi Janet,
Thanks for writing in! At present we only have photos of this lovely sweater in the original color. I quick sweep of Ravelry and I see that people are knitting it in a variety of colors but no one is quite finished yet.
Best,
Cassy
Question: The model wears a size small?
Hi Pat,
The Honey Pink (beige-ish color) is the 37 1/4″ size. The white is 41 1/4″ size. Hope this helps!
Best,
Adam
As always PURL SOHO leaves me over enthusiastic when I first set eyes on each new pattern. Naturally using the chosen / recommended yarn makes the garment the success it deserves. One day I will treat myself to a batch of beautiful yarn, but first I MUST reduce my existing stash. I hope too to achieve the smooth stitch effect with better quality yarns that I currently use. I try so hard to knit each stitch to perfection yet an the end I always seem to have to stretch, flatten and or tug here and there to get a perfect finished look. (Any suggestions will be welcome).
Hi Heather,
So happy you love the pattern! As a sample knitter for Purl, I find that lots of gauge swatches make the finished project turn out better. I block every piece based on how I feel it will block best and I test out different blocking methods for each project. All great knitters have to tug at their work a little! It’s a part of knitting that you have to accept. You always want to make a beautiful and perfect garment going into the project, but it’s wise to keep in mind that these are hand made pieces and their flaws give them charm. Best of luck on your knitting adventures!
-Adam
Beautiful sweater… just wish plus size gals were remembered when patterns are written. Big girls like beautiful things too!
Hi Sherry,
Thanks for writing in! We of course try to include everyone when writing our patterns and apologize that your size isn’t in the size chart for this project. I hope that in the future you’ll find our patterns go up to your size. We definitely keep these requests in mind for all future projects!
All the best,
Adam
I’m drooling over this beautiful sweater pattern! I’d love to be able to knit and wear it but being new to the knitting world, not sure if it’s for a beginner. I can read and follow patterns, what do you think?
Hi Sandii,
Thanks for the lovely comment! I don’t think that this is a great sweater for your first sweater, but if you have done sweaters and cables before, you might want to give this a try!
Thanks again!
-Adam
Wow! This garment looks very interesting. Love the yoke. Well done designers.
this gorgeous sweater belongs on the runway in France and Italy……
OK, so how difficult is this beautiful pattern? The only sweater I have knitted is your top down Fair Isle Sweater for my son. I haven’t tried cables before! Up for a challenge but a little apprehensive…
Hi Ciara,
Thanks for writing in! This sweater is more on the advanced intermediate side on account of the cabling, decreasing, grafting and short rowing. The techniques are learnable though and once you get them they are great to have in your repertoire. I think that if you are ready for a challenging knit, go for it! Best of luck!
-Adam
This is an absolutely gorgeous pattern and exactly the type of garment I’m looking for: simple and basic with interesting details. I love the feel of cashmere but I was wondering if you could offer some other less expensive yarn suggestions, too. Thanks.
Hi Lynesia,
Thanks for your question and for your kind words! We totally understand that our yarn choices can sometimes be inspirational and I am happy offer some alternatives! Brooklyn Tweed’s new yarn Arbor could work well. Our Mulberry Merino or Flax Down would also make great substitution.s
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Also, I was wondering what size to knit. I’m normally a medium to large, size 12 top, 38 bust. I have broad shoulders but don’t like things super clingy on my torso and sometimes ribbed knits can be that way. I would want it to fit like it does in the picture, where it doesn’t look like the ribs are really stretched out. Would the 41-1/4 be the best size?
Hi Lyneisa,
Thanks for writing in! Based on a chest measurement of 38 around, I do think that the 41 1/4 would be the appropriate size. Be sure to measure the fullest portion of your bust and use this as the measurement to base your size on. Then add 2-4″ inches to that measurement and select that size.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Love this design…but have a ? It seems like way too much yardage…is there a reason…does this particular design require more yarn then usual? Thanks!
Hi Barb,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct! There is more yardage called for than usual. Both ribbing and cables eat up a lot more yarn than stockinette and that accounts for the extra yardage called for here!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
This is absolutely stunning! I just wish you had one to two larger sizes. I know not all patterns are flattering for larger women, but I think this one would be.
Hi Lisa,
Thank you for the beautiful comment! We try to hit all adult sizes for our paid for patterns, but sometimes can’t make all sizes available. We will of course, however, keep you in mind for future sizing of our paid for patterns! Thanks for the kind words again. We really appreciate it!
-Adam
Is this knit bottom up in pieces or in the round? Absolutely beautiful btw.
Hi Su B,
Thanks for the question and for the kind words! For this lovely sweater, you will work the Sleeves and Body in the round from the bottom up, then join them to work the Yoke in one piece!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Is it possible to make this sweater in cotton? Or a cotton blend without wool? Thank you for any additional yarn recommendations for this beautiful design.
Hi Drew,
Thanks for your interest in this pattern! You can certainly make this pattern in a DK weight cotton. I suggest our Cotton Pure. There are many shades and it’s very soft!
All the best,
Adam
Is the pattern seamless?
Hi Lorelei,
Thanks so much for your question! This lovely sweater is seamless and knit from the bottom up. You will join the arms to the body and continue knitting the yoke. At the end the under arms are grafted.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Help! Loving the pattern – it looks gorgeous. BUT I am struggling the instruction on the sleeve increases. I am probably being thick but could you please spell out the stitches on the round following each increase round (for both the knit and purl increases). I can’t quite understand the “work the new stitches into the ribbing pattern”. I just can’t visualise how this is going to work. Thank you!
Hi Hayley,
Thanks for writing in! Basically, when you are ready to increase on the sleeve, you will m1p for the first and second increase rounds. The third and fourth increase rounds will be the m1R/m1L increases. This incorporates the 2×2 rib into the increase, making 2 purl stitches on either side of center over two increase rounds and 2 knit stitches on either side of center for the other two increase rounds. I think that if you continue knitting the increases, you’ll see the result in the fabric. Best of luck and feel free to write back if it’s still not clear.
Thanks,
Adam
I am confused on the increases as well. This answer seems the opposite of the pattern which says the first 2 increase rounds should be make 1 left and make one right to create knit stitches and the following two increase rounds work increases as make 1 purl to create purl stitched. Am I missing something? Thx in advance for your help
Hi Diane,
Thanks for the question and sorry about the confusion. The pattern states that you M1R/L or M1P depending on which is necessary. Hope this helps!
-Adam
I got the wrong end of the stick as well and now have to rip it out AGAIN. I love the pattern but this part is really not clear. A photo of what the sleeve increases should look like would have helped a lot. I’ll get there eventually but ripping it out is painful.
Hi Maire,
Sorry for the trouble! If you have a question, feel free to ask and maybe one of us can answer you in the comments section. Thanks!
-Adam
Could you please try to phrase the sleeve increase with other words as it is still not understandable for all of us ?
I am glad to read that other people do not get it either…..
saying “M1R/L or M1P depending on which is necessary” does not help at all , sorry for being thick
Hi Marie,
I will try my best to help! On the sleeves, you will select M1R/M1L OR M1P depending on what will work best for maintaining the 2 x 2 rib pattern. This is a bit more art than science. You can decide which you think looks better at each increase. What Adam recommended above, is what we did for our sample but whatever you think looks best will work here.
Please do let us know if there is anything else we can do to help!
Cassy
I was thinking of knitting this for myself, then my partner caught sight of it and fell in love. Would this pattern work for a slim man? It won’t be a problem to add extra length to the body and arms but I’m wondering if the fit around the shoulders might need some adjustment? Thankyou!
Hi Ashley,
I think this would work for a man as long as you can knit a size that will fit his chest width. The shoulders won’t need alteration if he is rather slim, but because they are broader than a woman’s the neck might turn out a bit wider. Best of luck!
-Adam
Stunning pattern I am from New Zealand Visiting New York in February March and will be looking your shop up. In the meantime will hopefully knit this in a NZ possum yarn from my stash until I can get to the merino cashmere – love the pale lilac colour – thanks
Hi, Carol!
Thank you so much for your kind words! We look forward to your visit!
Best,
Kumeko
Hi,
Being European I’m a metric knitter, so could you please translate the measurements into the metric system? I’d buy the pattern for this beautiful sweater in a heartbeat if you did!
Hello, Sofie!
Thank you so much for writing in! We hear you! We strive to make our patterns accessible to everyone and we are very sorry that you won’t be purchasing this pattern. Including metric measurements is something that we will consider. Again, thank you so much for writing in. We really do appreciate and welcome all feedback!
Best,
Kumeko
This pattern in gorgeus!
Is there any way this pattern can be sized larger? You have left out an awful lot of people who would love to knit this sweater.
Hi Kim,
Thanks for writing in! We of course try to include everyone when writing our patterns and apologize that your size isn’t in the size chart for this project. I hope that in the future you’ll find our patterns go up to your size. We definitely keep these requests in mind for all future projects!
Best,
Cassy
c’est un travail de points extraordinaire.
Hello, Christine!
Thank you very much for you kind words!
Best,
Kumeko
Love this!
Just got the pattern and will knit it as the pattern instructions describe, but next time I want to modify the sleeves to include a bit of the cable at the wrists? I’m an intermediate knitter and like the challenge of cable patterns – a lot easier than I thought. If I cast on 60 stitches for the sleeve, do you have any suggestions to modify the pattern to put some cables there.
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for writing us! I think this is a wonderful idea! I suggest doing a *C8F, k2, p2, repeat from * to end of round. This is a repeat of 12 stitches, so you should have five cables. Best of luck and let us know how it goes!
-Adam
I wish I could knit this sweater – is it possible to translate maesures into metricsystem? Or is it ok easy to do it myself? Anyone who have succeeded? I really want to make this!!
Hi Karen,
Thanks for writing in! Our patterns are only available in imperial at present but we appreciate the request and will take it under advisement. When I need to translate a pattern from metric, I use online calculators to do so. Google’s calculator is particularly helpful and easy to use!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I love, love, love this pattern! Is it possible to knit it top down?
Hi Deenie,
Thanks for writing in! This pattern is written bottom up. Knitting it top down would require quite a bit of rewriting!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
My son ( a senior citizen) is buying the pattern and yarn for me to make the Botanical Yoke Pullover for the Love of his life. She is fair and slender, so the neutral shades will allow her to add punch with colored scarves or accessories. I can’t wait to get started. Oh please tell me your skeins are already wound in balls! I hate winding. I make a lot of lace, so I would love your recommendations for lace weight yarns. I have received a gift of a spinning wheel so I am learning to spin alpaca, llama and sheep wool because my old sources of lace weight yarn are gone.
Hi Joanna,
Thanks for writing in! Your lovely story warmed my heart! Our yarn does not come wound but we can wind it for you. At check out in the Order Overview section, you should be able to indicate that you would like your yarn wound.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
I am going to try this beautiful sweater as soon as I finish the twisted rib sweater. Have not done cables before but I am up for the challenge! Do you think that the Botanical Yoke Sweater would look as beautiful with one of the heathered yarns? I really love the rose granite in the Cashmere Merino Bloom, by wondering if the heathered effect of the yarn would distract from the pattern. Thanks for any suggestions!
Hi Stacy,
Thank you for writing in! I think this would look lovely using a heathered yarn, especially the Rose Granite!
Best,
Kumeko
The start of row marker in the yoke is at the beginning of the left sleeve. It seems the short rows after row 56 of the pattern will add length to the front on the sweater, not the back. Am I missing something here? The sweater is looking lovely – started it with tubular cast ons which I think are a nice look.
Hi Sally,
Thanks for pointing this out! We are currently reviewing the pattern and will make changes if needed. At this point in the pattern your front and back have the same amount of stitches, so you can now treat what you’ve been referring to as the front as the back. It won’t change anything. Let me know if you have any other questions. I’d be glad to help!
-Adam
The front and back have the same amount of stitches, but the sleeves are set in and are not symmetric ; there are more stitches from the middle/increase line of the sleeve toward the back than toward the front, so it might make a slight difference to just make the front the back in the fit of the sweater.
Hi Sally,
Thank you for writing back. We heard back from the editor and the pattern should read as such:
Short Row 1 (right side): [K2, p2] 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) times, k1, wrp-t.
The subsequent rows should be correct. Let me know how that goes!
-Adam
Bit the bullet and ordered this pattern to make a sweater for my son’s girlfriend. Although pricey, this patter was worth every penny. Deceptively easy to follow but creating this exquisite sweater, I was thrilled with the pattern and the results.
Will look to Purl Soho for patterns, yarn and community in the future!
I just cannot get on with circular needles, can instructions be converted to straight needles?
Hi Mary,
Thanks for writing in! We understand that some of our customers are not comfortable yet with circular needles. However, given the complexity and structure of this sweater, it is not possible to convert it into a pattern for flat knitting. We appreciate your question and request and will keep it mind!
Best,
Cassy
Hi! I’ve been admiring this project since it was first published last fall, but I’ve been wanting to make something in Woolfolk Far. Would that be an acceptable substitute for the specified yarn?
Hi Andrea,
Thanks for writing in! The gauge of Far is 4-4.5 stitches per inch and then gauge for Cashmere Merino Bloom is 5-5.5 stitches per inch. This makes them fairly different! That said, if you knit a gauge swatch for this pattern using the suggested needles for the sweater and the Far and you like the fabric, you can carry on with the sweater!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
My knitting sister-in-law has mentioned that when blocking this pattern may not loosen up and will be tight on me. Do you know if this is a tighter fitting sweater? It’s a BEAUTIFUL design!!
Hi Connie,
Thanks for writing in! We found that with blocking, this sweater relaxed a bit. The ribbed nature of this sweater does mean that it will hug to your body more than a stockinette sweater. I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch in pattern, measuring it and then blocking it. Once blocked, you can measure it again and this will give you a good idea of how much the fabric will pull in or relax. Yarn can play a big part in whether the fabric pulls in or relaxes so each sweater could come out differently! The swatch is the best way to know for sure before you put all of that work into this lovely sweater!
Best,
Cassy
I know a question was previously asked about the sleeve increases but I still can’t figure that out. Hoping you can help to clarify again. Do you always keep one knit stitch at the beginning and end of the round? And then after an increase round, will you be knitting a previously pulled stitch (the 3rd stitch in) and purling a previously knit stitch? I’ve tried it both ways with M1L/M1R and M1P and can’t seem to get it right.
Thank you!!
Hi Kerry,
Thanks for writing us. Hopefully I can clarify this. Your first and last stitch will always be a K1 no matter increase round or not. However, after the first knit and before the last you will increase. Whether you are increasing for a knit or a purl determines how you will work that stitch. So, sometimes at the beginning of your round you will knitting the knits and purling the purls as they come because you will not have increased enough stitches to get back to a 2×2 ribbing repeat. Hope this makes sense!
-Adam
Is there in equivalent yarn I could buy in the UK so I could knit this pattern? (Is it Double knitting or chunky wool ?)
Hi Kathryn,
Thanks for writing in! Our Cashmere Merino Bloom comes in at 5 – 5.5 stitches per inch. We classify it as a DK weight which I believe is the same for the UK yarn weights! So you will be looking for a DK weight yarn with roughly 20 to 22 stitches over 4 inches.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Many thanks. Looking forward to knitting this lovely jumper.
Hello,
I am nearing the end of the pattern (huzzah!) and am ready to shape the neck. I have done short rows before many times so am familiar with the concept.
Back on page 7 it says to place the BOR marker at the LEFT back, add the left arm, knit the front, add the right arm, knit the back.
On page 8 it says to knit to end of Round then begin the short rows on the RS. If I do that, I will be knitting across the Left Sleeve and the Front, Wrapping and Turning and knitting back across the Front. So that the additional height will be on the front of the garment.
I am sure I missed something, but for the life of me cannot figure out what.
Please help. Thank you, Deborah
Hi Deborah,
Thanks for writing in. You have not missed anything! We have since added errata for this pattern. See below!
In the SHAPE NECK section on page 8, Short Row 1 should be:
Short Row 1 (right side): [K2, p2] 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) times, k1, wrp-t.
Thanks!
-Adam
I just finished making this sweater in the Cashmere Merino Bloom in ivory. It was so much fun to do. Really pretty easy and satisfying. Looks super complicated but really straight forward with the beautifully written directions. I did wind up going down to a size 4 (Signature Needle Arts circulars) to get the right gauge. Lots of gauge swatches and blocking to figure that out, but worth it. I had just finished the crossover sweater before this one….this one was sooooo much easier and a real pleasure to make. It is blocking right now. In my opinion, it can’t dry fast enough. I can’t wait to wear it! Thinking about trying the throw with steeks?!? next.
Hi, I’ve just bought this beautiful pattern but I can’t figure out how you intend to put stitches on holder. It says that you work some stitches (I suppose from the marker) then you put the “previous” stitches on holder and remove the end of row marker… How can you do it? It seems you go backwards… Maybe my english is not good enough, but I’m really stuck on this, and you need it both for sleeves and body. Can you help me understand?
Ty very much
Hi Laura,
I’d be happy to clear this up! Depending on your size, you’ll knit a certain amount past the beginning of round marker and place these stitches just worked and a certain amount of stitches at the end of round on a stitch holder. In short, you’ll have equal amounts of stitches on hold on either side of the beginning of round marker. This is so you can graft the underarm stitches of the body to the underarm stitches of the sleeve at the very end. If you still are unsure, please write back and I’ll try to clarify more.
All the best,
Adam
Hey there. I am making the 341/4 size sweater. I am wondering; if I want to lengthen the sleeves a bit, could I do 16 rows in the rib stitch and then begin the increase rows? That will give me an extra inch for my long arms! Thank you!
Veronica
Hi Veronica,
Thanks for writing in! You certainly could add some extra rows either at the bottom or the top of the sleeve. If you add to the bottom, be sure to try the sleeve on once you have made it through the first increase to be sure that it fits well!
Best,
Cassy
I am half way through the pattern on the first sleeve and am already at 11 inches long. I wrote out the pattern so I could see it and I have that it would take 141 rows to finish with the last increase. Did I count something wrong? The first 5 sets of 4 increase rows are every 6 rows and the last set every 4 rows. I am a tight knitter, so pretty sure the tension is not the issue. I have already finished the body and tension is the same on body and sleeve. I could do the increases every 4 rows now that I have finished the first 3 sets of increases at row 75, but want to to it correctly and the same on each sleeve.
Hi Stacy,
Thanks for writing in! It sounds like you are not getting row gauge for this sweater. Were you able to get gauge on your swatch? You should be getting 28 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in 2 x 2 ribbing, relaxed after blocking. If you are getting stitch gauge but not row gauge, you could eliminate 1 row between each of the increase repeats. However, this will also affect the body of the sweater. Based on how many rows you have knit, you should be around 9-9.5 inches long. I would suggest checking your gauge and then restarting the sleeve.
I hope that this helps and don’t hesitate to ask any further questions!
Cassy
On page 7 of the pattern under Shape Yoke, the 4th instruction says “Repeat last round 7(13,19,27,33) more times”. I am concerned that 27 rounds (for size 44.5) before starting the yoke pattern is too many rows and the pattern will start too high up. Can you confirm that 27 is correct. Thx in advance
Hi Diane,
Thanks for writing in! The 27 rows is correct for this size. This is to accommodate the larger bust measurement for this size. However, if you still think that this will produce too much fabric, you can certainly knit fewer. We have not heard of this being necessary and a quick check at the completed items on Ravelry, I have been unable to find anyone noting that this was too many rounds.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi there–
I bought this pattern with the intention of modifying it into a cape/poncho, but after giving it a look I’m not quite sure how I might attempt that. Is there another Purl pattern or suggestion on how I can adapt this? Basically, I want to keep the incredible detail at the top, but flow the ribbed body into a poncho.
thanks,
Jordan
Hi Jordan,
Thanks for writing in. There is always a way to design into an existing pattern! I do it all the time. However, you need to do a few things before you get started. First, you’ll want to do a gauge swatch in the round for the ribbing so you know how many stitches you want to cast on for your desired bottom edge circumference. From there you’ll pick a chest measurement from the original pattern that fits you with ease. You need to do this because you will have to decrease evenly from your bottom edge up to the chest area before starting the cable. Choosing the right chest size will help you refer to how many stitches you’ll need around the yoke area because this is knitted in a yoke construction, which is very similar to the top of a cape. I hope this helps!
All the best and let us know if you have any other questions.
-Adam
Hi! I have just started to knit this as a gift for my niece’s 40th birthday. I just undid my first sleeve as I was not happy with the way the increases were working in the rib. I am a bit confused about how it should look and wondering if you have a photo of what the increase ribbing should look like? I’d really appreciate some clarity because I seem to have too many places where I have 4 knit stitches and then an odd knit stitch on either side. I know I am doing it wrong but don’ know why. Please help!! Thanks.
Hi Marie,
Thanks for writing us! The sleeve portion can be a bit confusing but hopefully I can clear it up for you. Your first increase round will have you M1L after the first stitch and M1R before the last stitch. This leave you with two knits before and after the end of round marker (four knits total). After knitting seven rounds you’ll increase knitwise again on the eighth round (or sixth depending on your size), leaving you with three knit stitches on either side of the marker (six in a row total). After knitting seven rounds (knitting the knits, purling the purls as they come) you’ll K1, M1P, work all stitches as established until one stitch before end of round, M1P, K1. You’ll always have a set of knit stitches flanking the end of round marker and will be doing two increase rounds knitwise and two increase rounds purlwise. I hope this clears up your conundrum! Let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
I’m just now getting to the sleeve in this pattern and couldn’t figure out how the increases were working until I read Adam’s explanation. Now I understand and have gotten thru a couple of increases and see how the stitches look. Thanks so much.
I am working on the sleeves right now. I just wanted to make sure I understand the increase instructions correctly. I am making the 37″ size sweater. I am to increase 1 row, then rib knit 8 rows, then increase 1 row and rib knit 8 rows, rinse and repeat until this has been done 14 times. Thank you for your help!
Hi Katrina,
Thanks for writing in! You almost have it! The instructions say to increase every 8th row. This means that you will increase and then knit in rib for 7 rows and increase again. This means every 8th row will be the increase!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Yes it does and it also explains why my sleeve estimate would have been much longer than the chart! 🙂 Thank you for your help.
Now I just wish I had read the pattern the whole way through so I could have added two size 5 16″ needles with my past purchase for free shipping.
Is there a summer-weight yarn you could recommend with this pattern?
Thank you!
Hi Denice,
Thank you for writing us! I suggest you get a skein of Cotton Pure and do a test gauge swatch to see if you can get close to the specified 2×2 rib gauge in the pattern. It’s the closest summer-weight yarn we offer that would come close to gauge and have great color options. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Thank you Adam!
So I finished my first sleeve and measured it. It’s 21 inches long. I’m not sure what I did… I’m using flax down because of the colors I wanted to use for the sweater. The swatch was pretty much spot on.
I did 15 total long increases and 5 short ones. The stitches I’m supposed to have is correct, 100. How can I fix this? Shorten the long increases by 1 or 2 rows? Thanks for any help you can provide! 🙂
Hi Katrina,
Thanks for the questions — hopefully I can help you out! First, did you knit the swatch in the round? This is important because flat gauge and circular gauge can be different. Also, did you increase on the eight round for the first rounds of increases and the fifth round for the second sequence? If you knitted eight rounds and increased on the ninth, this could add a lot of length over the long run. Let me know if you have any other questions.
-Adam
No, no I did not do the swatch in the round… :/ I’m usually a “wing it” type of knitter, but this is a gift so I decided to knit it properly. Had no idea about a swatch in the round. Thanks for your help Adam. 🙂
Hi Katrina,
Thanks for writing in! It sounds like perhaps your row gauge is a little off. I would suggest knitting a row or two fewer between the increases. To decide how many fewer rows to complete between the increases, I would measure how many rows you are getting per inch (the pattern calls for 9 rows per inch). Based on the measurement you provided, it sounds like you are getting roughly 7 rows per inch. I would suggest doing 2 fewer rows between the long increase repeats and knit the short increases as written. This should yield you a more appropriate length sleeve.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thanks Cassy, I’ll give it another go. I appreciate your help in this. Central Cali can’t figure out if it’s winter or spring so I’m hoping to finish before it hits the 80s! 🙂
Hi,
is it also possible to knit this with a normal round but not high neckline?
Thanks for your help,
Sabrina
Hi Sabrina,
Thanks for the question! This is totally possible! If you would like a shorter neckline rib, I would stop knitting 1-1.5″ after your last cable round.
All the best,
Adam
What is the suggested bind off for this pattern? I love how neat the pictured one is, but as always, am deep in stretchy vs. neat conundrum. Afraid my preferred stretchy bind off will flare too much in this lovely ribbing!
Hi Wei Jing,
Thanks for the question! I suggest the normal pass over bind off. That is what we used for this project. If you bind off tightly, I’d look up the sloped bind off which leaves you with a similar look to the pass over bind off but with more stretchability. Thanks!
-Adam
This pattern is freaking gorgeous.
I am a beginner knitter. I love this pattern with cables how difficult is it to be able to do this pattern? Do you have an alternate wool to use?
Thank for your reply
Joanne
Hi Joanne,
Thank you for writing us! This pattern is more on the advanced intermediate side when it comes to skill level. I don’t recommend taking on this project if you are a beginner. A good alternate yarn we suggest for this pattern is Flax Down. It’s wonderfully soft and comes in some great colors!
All the best,
Adam
Hi Folks, I’m at the yoke with this pattern and have already ripped once because I felt like the cable crosses were not properly distribute across the front using the smallest size 34. I Wanted the first two crosses to align one above each bust point as the pattern photo shows. I began the decrease round where the left back meets the left sleeve and continued into the chart. Problem is that with the smallest size there are 7 sections which would make it impossible to similarly space through the back. That is you might have one cross more to the center and the other more to the bodice side. Not sure where my beginning of round should be to make this distribute the most aesthetically. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Sandy
HI Sandy,
Thanks for writing in! It sounds like you are doing things correctly! Looking at the sample here in the store, the yoke cables are not symmetrical as they twist in different directions to create the intertwining look. Thus you will be unable to line up the crosses perfectly over each bust point. The two cables that cross over the bust point cross in the same direction and thus land at different points.
I hope that this helps clear things up!
Cassy
Hi,
I just completed the first round of cabling, and am now having difficulty with the next rounds because the large cables has made it very tight. Is there a way to avoid this problem/should I undo this cabling row and redo it? It’s now tight enough to make it very difficult to slide stitches up the left needle, they seem to get caught at the center and side of each cable if that makes sense?
Thanks!
Hi Shelby,
Thanks for writing in! You are not alone! This is fairly common. Usually there is a slight difference in tension, but with practice it can be minimized. I think people who tend to knit a little on the tight side tend to struggle with this more. I guess my advice is to be patient and to practice and also with time you’ll become accustom to counteracting it by remembering where your cable is going to be and trying to relax when working that column of stitches in the previous round as well as the cables themselves.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I am also having a problem with the cabling making the sweater too tight ( I actually finished the entire sweater and had to undo the entire yoke because the first row of cables would not fit over my shoulders/arms).
I have done several samples of the C24 row and can’t seem to make it loose enough. I loose all the elasticity of the ribbing at the cable site.
Is there any further advice you can give on how to loosen this area up?? I know it can be done, because I see the model wearing the sweater.
I have so much invested in this sweater I don’t want to think about failure. Please help!
Hello Pat,
Thank you for reaching out- I’m very impressed by your thorough determination! I’m sure you have checked this, but just to cover all the bases, are you getting a gauge of 28 stitches and 32 rows per 4 inches in 2 x 2 ribbing, relaxed after blocking? Are the ribs within the cable tightening up as well? I sense it sounds like the whole yoke is coming out drastically tighter than the body of the sweater the first thing I would try is going up in needle size and to see if that forces your gauge to open up a bit.
I hope this is helpful and let us know how it turns out, or if you have any follow up questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Marilla, thanks so much for getting back to me. My gauge count is good.
Although I’ve never thought I was a “tight” knitter I have done the sweater up to the point just before the cabling starts in a VERY loose stitch. I like your suggestion of getting larger needles and am going to get the next size up before I resume the yoke. I think I’ll try some samples with the looser stitch and larger needles.
Although all those things will help I have to say that C24 is a tough nut for me to crack. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks again.
Please help me start the sleeves increase inside seam. I can’t figure out how to increase and keep the knit two purl two in tact.
Hi Bonnie,
Thanks for writing in! The sleeve portion can be a bit confusing but hopefully I can clear it up for you.
Your first increase round will have you M1L after the first stitch and M1R before the last stitch. This leave you with two knits before and after the end of round marker (four knits total). After knitting seven rounds you’ll increase knitwise again on the eighth round (or sixth depending on your size), leaving you with three knit stitches on either side of the marker (six in a row total). After knitting seven rounds (knitting the knits, purling the purls as they come) you’ll K1, M1P, work all stitches as established until one stitch before end of round, M1P, K1. You’ll always have a set of knit stitches flanking the end of round marker and will be doing two increase rounds knitwise and two increase rounds purlwise.
I hope this clears things up!
Cassy
still not clear on how to increase sleeves ; is there a way to knit the sleeves not in a round please? this would be much easier as I still cannot undesrtand the way to do this :”This leave you with two knits before and after the end of round marker (four knits total)” what does this means?
Hi Marie,
Thanks for writing in! I am sorry that you are having continued difficulties. We only have the sleeves written to be knit in the round. Converting the pattern to be knit flat would be quite a bit of work.
I will try my best to clarify what we mean when we say ”This leave you with two knits before and after the end of round marker (four knits total)”. Your first increase round will have you M1L after the first stitch (this would be 2 knit stitches, the first stitch and the M1L) and you will have a M1R before the last stitch (this would be 2 knit stitches, the M1R and the last stitch). This would leave 2 knits at the beginning of the round and 2 knits at the end of the round. You will continue knitting in pattern, maintaining these 4 knits until you reach the next increase.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Hi,
I would really like to try this pattern but I’m a bit confused about the sizing. When it says actual chest circumference does is it referring to bust measurements? I’m pretty petite and I wouldn’t want the sweater to oversized or loose.
Thanks!
Hi Madeline!
Thanks for your question! The chest circumference is referring to your bust measurement but with an extra 2″-3 3/4″ of positive ease. If you like your top to be a little more fitted I would recommend only adding the 2″ of positive ease. I hope this helps!
Happy Knitting,
Carly
I’m writing again since my previous post was deleted for some reason?! I had 2 questions about this beautiful pattern:
1) is Lions Brand 100% superwash merino compatible with this pattern?
2) is there a video of how to work the underarm portion of this sweater ?
Any help would be appreciated, thank you
Sabine
Hello Sabine,
Thank you for reaching out again! I’m not sure what happened with your first comment- my apologies. It looks like Lions Brand 100% superwash merino has a similar gauge to our Cashmere Merino Bloom (The yarn the sweater is designed for) so I believe it should work! I would still knit up a gauge swatch before jumping in to avoid any surprises later on. Unfortunately we do not currently have a video tutorial for this pattern. I will certainly pass along your request! I think you will have an easy time following the instructions provided in the pattern, but if you do run into any issues don’t hesitate to reach out. We are hear for you!
I hope this is helpful. Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I just blocked this sweater and the pattern is just gorgeous! Thank you so much for designing it. I am an intermediate knitter. This was my first attempt to cable and the instructions were so clear. I am hoping that maybe a hat pattern with this cabling design would be available someday! Thanks again!
Hi Stacy,
Thank you so much and thank you for your kind words! A hat with this cable pattern would be lovely! We will keep it in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
I am having a problem similar to one discussed above. I have correctly followed the instructions for the increases on the sleeve but the sleeve will be too long. I have checked and I am getting about 7 rows to the inch rather than the 8 contemplated in the pattern. While I understand the suggestion above to simply reduce the number of rows for the initial increases from 8 to say 7, won’t I still end up with the yoke portion being far larger than designed? I am using the Purl Soho Cashmere Merino Bloom and the fabric is reasonably dense using a US 5. I am concerned that if I go down to a US4 it will be too dense and heavy. Thoughts?
Hello Elise,
Thank you for your question- this is quite the dilemma! Is your stitch count off gauge or is it just your row count that is off? I would knit a little swatch with a US4 and see if it’s ok. If it is just your row count that is not on gauge than it will make everything slightly long but not wider. This is easier to adjust because you can simply knit less rows. I hope this all makes sens and if you have further questions please let me know!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I am trying to translate this pattern into Norwegian, have done alle the 2×2 and should start on the cabelling, but I dont understand anything, so confused. Wish there was a youtube turtorial 🙂
Hello Nina,
Thanks for writing us! I’m sorry to hear you are confused… I’m very impressed with your translation skills. Unfortunately we don’t currently have a video tutorial, but I will be sure to pass along your suggestion.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hallo, Marilla, I want to order the pattern of the “Botanical Yoke Pullover”. Iam just a little bit irritated by the information of the gauge: the pattern says “28 stitches on 32 rows”, whereas the information of the yarn itself ” Cashmere Merino Bloom” is : 5-5,5 stitches per inch or 22 stitches per 4 inches. The yardage and the number of stitches/inch of your yarn correspond to a DK yarn, whereas 28 stitches/4 inch correspond more easily to a fingering yarn. Where does the difference comes from?
Hello Karin,
Thank you for writing in! The reason for this deference is because the gauge swatch for the Botanical Yoke is knit in a Rib Stitch and the gauge on the yarn label refers to a stockinette gauge swatch. I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Marilla
I can see how the gauge width would be different for ribbing and stockinette stitch, but not gauge length. Can you explain?
Hello Lea,
Thank you for this question! I know it seems strange, but the stitch you use will change your gauge in all directions. This is why knitting gauge swatches is so important. On top of stitches changing your gauge, every person is also going to have a slightly different tension when knitting and therefor a different gauge.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Is your pattern of the “Botanical yoke Pullover” disponible in french ? and sizes in centimeters ?
Thank you for answering,
I would want to order this pattern to realise the pullover for my daugther before Christmas
Véronique.
Hello Veronique,
Thank you for your interest in this Pattern! Unfortunately we currently do not have the resources to translate our patterns. I will certainly pass along the suggestion!
Warmly,
Marilla
I just finished the “Body” section. I am confused with the “Separate front and Back” section. I have just placed the K2 P2 K2 and previous 14 stitches on a stitch holder. Then it says to P2 K2 33 times. Am I supposed to join the row around the Left underarm since there is a big gap now between the left and right needle? Or do I start to knit on a different smaller circular needle from the Left underarm stitch holder onward? And then what about the right underarm thereafter?
Hi Kerry,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help! You will continue knitting with the same needle that you are currently using even though there will be a gap. In the next round, this gap will be filled when you attach the sleeves to the body and continue up to the yoke!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
I love this pattern. Any advice on (a) how to increase the pattern size for a 54″ bust, and (b) how to make the back plain rather than cabled?
Hi Karen,
Thanks for writing in! At present, this pattern is only available up to a size 48. We of course try to include everyone when writing our patterns and apologize that your size isn’t available for this project. I hope that in the future you’ll find our patterns go up to your size. We definitely keep these requests in mind for all future projects! Additionally, altering the back to remove the cables would be quite a substantial change that would require some accommodation for the decrease and for the lack of pull in the the cables add to the pattern. You may be able to continue the ribbing up, but you may need at add additional decreases. I am unsure of how this would work as there is not formula for how much more the cables pull in as opposed to the ribbing.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I really like making both sleeves at the same time.
Could I do the sleeves on a straight needle together instead on in the round? I’m thinking I could just sew up the seam and leave the stitches to incorporate in the yolk. Do you think that would work? I’m also not having fun trying to do this on double-pointed needles.
Thanks for your feedback.
Jacquie
Hi Jacquie,
Thanks for writing in! Altering the sleeves to knit flat would require a fair amount of work. You would need to add stitches to sew at the selvedges and translate alternate rows to wrong side rows, being careful to increase at the correct times and in the correct places. This might also make the join a little messy as the center bottom of the arm changes as you increase to create the pattern. For those who do not love working with DPNs, there is a technique where you use one long needle to knit a small circumference called magic loop. While we do not have a tutorial on this technique, there are many videos on this on YouTube.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I am using the magic loop method on the sleeves and it is much better than the dpn.
Would your new yarn, Understory, be a good choice for this pullover?
Hi Liz,
Thanks for writing in! Our Understory is just a touch smaller than our Cashmere Merino Bloom. You may well be able to make this lovely sweater using Understory but I would be sure to knit a gauge swatch to make sure that you can get the requisite gauge for the sweater. I do think that the stitch definition of Understory would make the cables in this sweater pop!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Love the design. Would like to make it into a cardigan for my mother. Possible? Probable?
Thank you!
Hi Charlotte,
Thanks for writing in! While a lovely idea, I think the making this pattern into a cardigan would be quite challenging. Given that cables run down the middle of the front of the sweater, there is no easy spot to add in some stitches to steek the piece into a cardigan. Thank you for the suggestion and we will keep it in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
Hello, I just downloaded this pattern and am about to cast on with Mulberry Merino but I am hesitating between the 3.75mm needles and the 4mm needles. My 3.75 mm gauge swatch is 4 inches after being blocked but the ribs are quite stretched out (they look a bit like the neck of the model in the picture but not like the body). It relaxes to 3 3/4 inches. My 4mm needle swatch is 4 1/4 inches when stretched out like the neck on the model but relaxes to 4 inches when the ribs move closer together. I plan on knitting the size 37 3/4. I have a 32″ bust. With these numbers, considering my size, gauge and yarn I will use, which needle size would you recommend for the most flattering result? (I usually do not wear things that are very clingy but would like to respect the silhouette that the sweater was designed for).
Thank you so much in advance, you input would be greatly appreciated. I can’t wait to cast on!
Hi Pastille,
Thanks for writing in! This one is a hard call. If the fullest part of your bust measures 32″ and the sweater is designed with 3-5 inches of positive ease, using the 3.75 mm needles should get you a 36″ finished bust. This would work well within the suggested ease when knitting the 37 3/4″. If you are spot on gauge with the 4 mm needles, you will have 5 1/4″ of positive ease. It is also good to note here that rib is incredibly stretchy and forgiving. So if you use the smaller needles, you should still get a fit that isn’t too clingy for you.
Ultimately the choice is yours! But I do think that you will be ok with the smaller needles.
Best,
Cassy
I noticed my friend tends to buy sweaters where the sleeve comes about an inch or so past the wrist. Since it’s a rib stitch do you think just knitting an inch before starting the pattern would be ok? Thanks for your help!
Hi Katrina,
Thanks for writing in! You certainly can! I would measure the sleeve of a sweater that fits as you would like and use that measurement to determine how much longer you would like to make the sleeve. This will help you get exactly what you want!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
I’m almost finished and found the pattern clear and easy to follow for this ABSOLUTELY STUNNING design. I’m at the neck and don’t understand why it calls for short rows. It appears to have more rows at the shoulders but the pattern only calls for short rows to be done once not once at each side. I’m confused. Can you please help?
Hi Carla,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! In the neck section, you will be working short rows across the back of the neck. This is to add a bit of extra fabric at the back of the neck which will push the neckline forward so that it site correctly on your body.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I am so close to finished, I can taste it. Working on the underarm grafting and am confused by step 8. It involves stitches on back AND front needles? I just want to be sure I’m doing this right.
Hello Laura,
Thank you for writing in and congratulations on being so close! Yes- you are grafting the front and back stitches together. Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi there, I am onto knitting the sleeves and I am not quite sure I like how the increases are working into the pattern. I followed the instructions very closely and it seems the increases are quite visible as you work the new stitches into rib pattern there is a quite abrupt change from a knit stitch into purl. Do you have a picture of sleeve showing your increases???
Hi Agnes,
Thanks for writing in! The arm increase here can be a bit challenging as you choose a purl or a knit based on what works based on where you are in the pattern. Additionally, as there are increase here in ribbing, the effect is visible and decorative. While we do not have pictures on the site that show the decreases, I am sending you an email with images that show the under side of the arm. I hope that these help and please let me know if you have any further questions!
Best,
Cassy
Hello, I’m a Dutch girl and knitting this stunning pattern. It’s a bit of a puzzle to knit a pattern that’s not your main language. So far, so good. But now I’m facing a problem: just joined body and sleeves and have 368 stitches in total for the 34.25 size. Now I’m stuck in de decrease round. I’ve decreased 8 stitches. Is it right that on the back and on the front there are two places with 4 purl stitches after each other?
Thank you for your help…
Hi Annemieke,
Thanks for writing in! When joining the sleeves to the body, there will be four places where there are four purls together. This will be where the sleeves join the body in the back and the front on each sleeve. Then with the first decrease row, you will be purling two stitches together in each of these places to reduce down to two purl stitches next to each other at each of these points!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
This cable pattern is beautiful. Any chance there is a matching hat in the works?
Hi Kath,
Thanks for writing in and for the request! While we do not have a a matching hat pattern, we do have a lovely Traveling Cable Hat! We will certainly keep your request in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
I love this pattern and am dying to make it, but the Cashmerino is a bit out of my budget at the moment. Would this work in the Good Wool?
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for reaching out! I think Good Wool would be an excellent substitute for Cashmere Merino Bloom, though you should be sure to knit a gauge swatch whenever substituting yarns!
Best,
Julianna
I am not able to buy this pattern, the buy link does not function as it should, kind regards, Ki
Hi Ki,
Thanks for reaching out! It appears the page to purchase the pattern is working correctly now – you can access it directly by clicking here. If you continue to have problems please feel free to contact us directly at [email protected] or by calling us at (800) 597-PURL.
Best,
Julianna
I am now starting the yoke shape. I am confused as to how to do the first yoke shape round decrease. I am doing the size 37. I have the correct 408 number of stitches, but am confused by the first decrease round of P2tog, work in established rib to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog and remove marker 3 times. I don’t understand the remove marker 3 times. Please help?
Linda
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! For this row (and in most knitting patterns), you will be repeating the entire bracketed section three times – this should result in a total of 8 stitches decreased when you have completed the row, and you will have only one marker left to indicate the beginning of the round.
I hope that clears things up! Please let us know if you have any other questions!
Best,
Julianna
Hello,
I’ve just got to the end of my first sleeve and am hoping you can clarify the step: “…K1, [p2, k2] 1 time, place previous 14 stitches on scrap yarn, removing marker, *p2, k2 (repeat)… to last 2 stitches, p2.”
I’m confused with how this works… What I’ve done in previous bottom-to-top patterns with yokes is put the ‘armpit’ stitches on one piece of scrap yarn and the rest of the stitches on another piece of scrap yarn.
I’m just not seeing how the separation and continuation works… Can you please set me straight – photos and/or videos would be incredibly helpful!
Hello Danielle,
Thank you for reaching out! All this means is that you are placing the 14 stitches that you just knit on a stitch holder or scrap yarn. This means that you will have your 14 stitches on one holder and the rest of your stitches on another holder. The 14 stitches are your armpit stitches while the rest of your stitches will be added to the body of your sweater when you get to that point in the pattern. This is why you have your stitches on two separate holders or scrap yarn. I hope this makes sense and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello, I have a similar question regarding the end of the sleeve pattern. After I knit 1 round, of K1, (p2,k2). Does the place previous 14 start with a k1? And after I’ve placed the 14 on a stitch holder, how do I go about knitting the final round?
Hi Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! When beginning the final round of the sleeve, you will work K1, [P2, K2] only once, for a total of five stitches, and then place the previous 14 stitches which will include both the stitches you knitted at the beginning of this round and the last 9 stitches of the previous round, on a piece of scrap yarn. Your working yarn will still be attached to the first stitch on the needle so you can finish this final round.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thanks for this lovely pattern! I started on the short rows and followed you short-rows tutorial, however I am not sure when to do the knit wrp-t and when to do the purl wrp-t when it is in rib? Should I do the knit wrp-t whenever I am on the knit side or when I am in a knit stitch (eventhough on the wrong side)? The same goes for picking up the wrapped stitch – I don’t know when to do the knit pick-up and the purl pick-up…
Hi Ida,
Thanks for writing in! When working in ribbing, you should be working the wrap and turns and picking them up as knits if they are on a knit stitch and as purls if they are on a purl stitch, regardless of whether you are on the right or wrong side of the work.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
is it possible to do only the first 12 rounds for the cable and to repeate them, in case i will not do a circular knitting?
Hi Maria,
Thanks for writing in! Although it may be possible to work the sweater flat and seam it later if you are up for quite a few pattern modifications, you will still need to work the full 56 row cable section, either from the chart or written instructions, as the yoke decreases which are essential to the shaping and fit of the sweater are worked simultaneously with the cables and no part of the yoke pattern repeats.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hallo, ich habe mir dieses tolle Strickmuster gekauft und frage mich gerade, ob es auch eine deutsche Übersetzung dafür gibt? Oder eine Videoanleitung?
Das wäre toll!
Hi Juliane,
Thank you for this lovely comment! We do not currently have the resources to translate our patterns or to add a video tutorial, but hopefully at some point in the future this will be more of a possibility. In the mean time I will certainly pass along your suggestion!
Best,
Julianna
Hi I just purchased this. Which cast on method do you recommend?
Hello Caitlin,
Thank you for reaching out! We did a long tail cast on for this project.
Happy knitting!
Marilla
Is there a way to turn this into a top-down pattern?
Hi Michele,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have instructions for knitting this sweater from the top down; however, I will pass your suggestion along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
I’m at the round where you separate the body for the sleeves, front, and back and am confused on where you are counting the 14 previous stitches. After the first instruction to K2 [p2,k2] 1 time are you counting the 14 stitches backwards including those six stitches you have just completed? And if that is incorrect then where does that count begin?
Thanks!
Hello Karin,
Thank you for reaching out! You are correct, when the pattern says “14 previous stitches” it is the 14 stitches that you most recently knit.
I hope this helps and happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi Purl Bee,
I’m working on my first sleeve and I just got to the M1P part– am I supposed to make one purl left or right?
Thanks!
Hello Katie,
Thank you for reaching out! To m1P you will do the following; with left needle, pick up bar between stitch you just knit and one you’re about to knit, bringing needle from back to front, then purl into front of stitch. If you are working the wrong side of a stockinette fabric this would be a m1R, BUT on the purl side of the fabric, the left and right m1p look identical, so if the purl side is the right side of your fabric, choose either one!
I hope this helps and happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi Purl Soho,
So I’m almost done my first sleeve, and I noticed it looked a little too long— I just measured it and it’s already 20 inches:(( Is there some way for me to go on without ripping out a ton of work and editing the pattern? I had done a gauge swatch and gotten gauge in the round, but I guess I must have been pulling the yarn to stretch it and knitting differently? Is there anything I can do to salvage this?
Thanks!
Katie
Hi Katie,
Thanks for writing in! I am so sorry to hear this! It sounds like your sleeve is quite a bit longer than ours. This is probably because although your stitch gauge is correct, your row gauge may be off. Row gauge is quite a bit harder to change and in this case, the best idea might be to complete less rows between the increases on the sleeve. Perhaps 1 to 2 rows less between each increase depending on what your row gauge is. Please do feel free to write in to us at [email protected] if you need help figuring this out!
This does mean that the best way to fix this would be to rip it back and start again. While I know that this is not ideal, I will say that I have never regretted doing so even when painful to do so as in the end, I have exactly what I was looking for.
Best,
Cassy
Well on the bright side, I’ll get more time to enjoy knitting with this lovely yarn! Thanks!
I am starting the short rows for the neck shaping and have found the shaping does not span the nape of the neck evenly – it goes much farther down the left side of the neck (when sweater is worn) than the right side. Am I reading the pattern wrong or have others had a problem with this?
I am knitting size 37 3/4 and find that after knitting the 1st wrap and turn beyond the beginning of round marker, the next wrap and turn does not reach the half way (48 stitches) point. The problem continues with each succeeding wrap and turn until there are many more shaping stitches on the left neck than the right neck.
Please help – I love the pattern and the sweater looks gorgeous!
Sue
Hello Susan,
Thank you for reaching out and congrats on being almost finished with this beautiful sweater! This is very mysterious indeed. Is it possible that your beginning of your round marker was mistaken for one of your decrease markers? If you continue to have the issue I would reccomend moving your short rows over a bit to compensate for the issue.
I hope this helps and please let us know how it goes!
-Marilla
Hi, i’ve just finished it. I’m so happy! It was my first pullover (after a lots of hats…), but I managed to go through it without to many issues thanks to all your explanations. That was a real pleasure to follow such a pattern. Thank you!
Hi! Would the Purl Soho Worsted twist work for this lovely sweater?
Hello Anna,
Thank you for reaching out! Our Worsted Twist is to thick for this project which requires a DK/lightworsted yarn.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello – I would love to make this pullover but I find it difficult to shape sweaters as I am rather “chesty”. What would you suggest? Would making the body about an inch smaller in circumference be feasible, to shape the sides a bit?
Thanks!
Hi Kate,
Thanks for reaching out! Since this sweater is knit from the bottom up, it should be fairly straightforward to start out with a smaller size to fit your waist and then increase stitches to get to the next size up for the bust and yoke of the sweater. To do so, I would add a second marker at the halfway point when casting on to indicate the second side seam, and once you have knit the body up to about your natural waist, you can start adding one stitch on either side of each side seam marker, or 4 stitches per round, every inch or so until you are up to your desired size. You can then finish knitting the sweater following the yoke instructions for the larger size.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello, I am at the short rows and mystified. My BOR marker is at the beginning of my left sleeve, and the Short Row 1 says I should K2/P2 3 times (so I work 12 st) K1, then wrp and turn. But I’m in the middle of my left sleeve! I need your help!
Thank you so much, beautiful pattern.
Carla
Hi Carla,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, that is correct! The first short row is rather short and you will be working your first wrap and turn part way into the left sleeve. If you go on to the next row, you will see that it is much longer and takes you all the way into the right sleeve for the second wrap and turn, so the short rows are symmetrically placed over the center back. These short rows serve to make a bit of extra room for your shoulders for a more comfortable fit.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
bonjour,
est-il possible de recevoir le croquis traduit en français ?
Merci
Hi Valerie,
Thanks for writing in! We do not currently have the resources to translate our patterns, but hopefully at some point in the future this will be more of a possibility. In the mean time I will certainly pass along your request!
Best,
Julianna
I made this sweater twice now, ones in a very fine wool and ones in the wool as described in the pattern. Both times I run into the same trouble. The pattern has a real problem in the shoulders. It just doesn’t work out. The sweater pulls as soon as you lift your arms and it doesn’t feel comfortable.
I’m really bummed out by it because it looked so good 🙁
Hello Iris,
Thank you for reaching out and sharing your experience with this sweater! Your feedback is much appreciated. The first thing I think of is if your gauge matches ours. If your gauge is off it can change not only the size of the sweater but also the proportions. I know you have finished your sweaters so that might be the most helpful thin to you right now. What I would suggest you do at this point is to block your sweater- if you haven’t already- which gives you an opportunity to do some slight reshaping.
I hope this is helpful and good luck!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Before Buying the pattern I would like to know if the pattern is a drawing with the normal symbols ora text explanation. As I don’t understand the English terms and Inches as we use cm in Switzerland, but can understand the drawing and point.
Kind regards.
Hi Sabine,
Thanks for writing in! This pattern is partially charted – we include a chart for the cabled yoke, but the rest of the instructions for the body and sleeves are only available as written instructions.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I’m really confused with the gauge. The gauge on the cashmere merino bloom yarn is listed as 20-22 stitches = 4 inches with US needles 5-7. That’s what I’m getting with a size 5 needle. The gauge for the pattern is 28 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches, which is quite a bit smaller/tighter. Why is it so different?
Hello Lea,
Thank you for reaching out! Are you getting a this gauge in stockinette or in a ribbed stitch? If you are getting 22 stitches per inch with a US5 in a rib stitch I would recommend going down to a size US4 needle or even US3 needle to obtain gauge.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Best,
Marilla
Hi, I have the same problem as Iris Frowein… i finished my work and it doesn’t feel as confortable as I thought. It is thight at the sholders and underarm. is there anything i can do about it? Maybe add something for the underarm?
I’m really sorry for it took me forever to finish it =(
Thanks, J
Hi Juliana,
I am so sorry to hear that the yoke doesn’t fit perfectly! Have you tried blocking it aggressively to stretch out the yoke section as much as possible? If that doesn’t work, I’m afraid that the best way to fix this issue will be to re-knit the yoke using a larger needle. I would, however, try blocking the sweater first!
Best,
Julianna
I had been dreaming of this sweater for years and today I finished it, after a month on the needles. I am very happy with how it came out, despite the rib making my arms look gigantic. The sweater looks much more difficult to make than it is, the instructions are very well written, they are clear and detailed.
Hello,
I just started this sweater with the sleeve. I’m using the Cashmere Merino Bloom. I cast on the 60 stitches for size 34 and have knit 8 rounds. I find the cuff far too big for my liking. I think I need to decrease by about 20 stitches. If I do that, could you tell me how I should proceed with the sleeve after that?
Thank you!
Hello Vivian,
Thank you for reaching out! If you are just interested in decreasing the cuff, and not the upper arm, this will be fairly simple. You will just need add 10 extra increase rounds placed evenly throughout your sleeve. You will need to have the same number as the pattern in the end in order to proceed with your yoke.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
I’m looking with longing at this pattern, which is currently “mellowing” in my project library. The stumbling block, in this as in many patterns: my upper arms are quite heavy and don’t “match” the otherwise-correct measurements based on my bust size. How can I increase the upper arm size without throwing off the other measurements? I’m not sure changing needle sizes is going to do it; I think I’m going to need to add stitches somewhere. But where? Thanks for any advice you may offer.
Hi Deborah,
Thanks for reaching out! This could be a bit tricky, but because this is a bottom up sweater, I think it’s possible! I would first check the schematic to decide which size will fit your bust and which will fit your arms, and then knit the sleeves and body in the two different sizes. After you join the sleeves to the body, you will have to work a few extra decreases on the sleeves to get to the correct number of stitches for the yoke so that the chart repeat works out, but since there are already quite a few decreases before beginning the chart, you should be able to work in a few extra decrease rows as necessary. Once you are at the correct number of stitches for your size, you can go ahead and follow the cable chart and finish the rest of the sweater as written!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
In the sleeve section and the math doesn’t work for the increases. I’m working on size 48(XL) starting with 68 stitches, working up to the 12th instruction, it says to repeat from increase round 1 two(x, x, x)(2…) more times. At which point I should have 92 stitches. With only 6 increases that’s only 12 additional stitches not 24. Please confirm where the error is.
Thanks.
Hello Jean,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you might be missing an increase row. There are four increases rows that each increase by 2 stitches, totally 8 stitches for the whole section. You will then repeat from increase round 1 giving you 16 more stitches, totally 24 stitches. There should be two “increase round 1” and two “increase round 2”.
I hope this helps and let us know if you continue to have any issues!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I do not have a website url. Does that matter? Anyway, I am a intermediate knitter who has never knitted a sweater. I guess you could consider me a beginner. Would that Kristy’s Twist be too difficult for me? I mean the ad states that it is not as difficult as it seems. Just so you know, I have knitted cable patterns just recently.
Hi Gloria,
Thanks for reaching out! The website information is optional! It is true that this pattern is easier than it looks…if you have already tried cables, I’m sure you found that they are surprisingly easy to knit! For this pattern, in addition to the cables, you will also have to knit in the round, increase, decrease, work short rows, and graft stitches. We also provide the cabled yoke instructions in both written and chart form, so you can follow whichever set of instructions works better for you. You can find tutorials for everything you need on our Tutorials page, and we are always here to help if you have any questions!
Best,
Julianna
I wonder if this beautiful pattern would work for a man? I note previous comments re shoulder fit.
Thank you.
Hi Grant,
Great question! The cables in the yoke do create a slightly less elastic yoke than usual, so some knitters have found the sweater to be a bit tight in the shoulders. Since men generally have broader shoulders than women, the fit may be even tighter; however, usually men’s sweaters fit with a bit more positive ease than women’s sweaters, so you may be able to solve this by selecting a size with 5-7″ of positive ease instead of the 3-5″ recommended in the pattern. No matter what size you choose, I would recommend trying on the sweater once or twice as you are knitting the yoke to see how it is turning out. If the rest of the sweater fits well but the yoke is too small, you might try knitting just the yoke on larger needles to loosen things up!
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Hello,
I’m gauging this right now, and am having issues (I’m using the Cashmere Merino). On fives, the stitch gauge was accurate but very loose when stretched, and the row gauge was an inch over, giving me five inches. On fours, the stitch gauge is giving me 30 stitches to four inches (and feels much tighter and more structured which I like), but the row gauge is right on the money at four inches. I’m not sure which way to go – I’m leaning towards the fours, with the slightly higher gauge. I need the size 41 1/4 sweater, which should give me about 3 1/4 inches of ease. Thanks!
Hello Kate,
Thank you for reaching out! It sounds like you will be better off with the fours. I will say that our gauge is taken after blocking so you might find that after blocking you might be right on gauge.
I hope this is helpful and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello !
This design is beautiful, I fell in love immediately ! Now I’m stuck at the start of the yoke. After the decreases, I have 440 stitches as expected (size 41 1/4), but when I follow the chart of 48 stitches, I have 8 stitches left to finish the row … If I knit them as they appear, I will have 2 straight lines. What should I do ? Thank you for your help.
Hello Céline,
Thank you for reaching out! After the decrease section there is another decrease section that is specific to size 41 1/4. This section will get you to 432 total stitches, 9 sections of 48 stitches each.
This is at the bottom of page 6 under “Size 411⁄4 Only”.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi Marilla,
I have the same issue. I’m making a size 37 3/4 and I decrease fine to 400 stiches.
In the Second decrease round, I end up only having 47 stiches in each section (because of the p2tog in the first decrease round) So I also end up with 8 stiches.
I simply don’t understand how I get started with the yoke.
Hi Susanne,
Thanks for reaching out. If you’ve successfully decreased to 400 stitches, then you’re already on the right track! I find that sometimes it helps me to divide complicated lines of a pattern into sections, so I can check exactly how many stitches I should be knitting at each point. This is how I would divide the Decrease Round under the “Size 37 3/4 Only” section in the pattern:
[k2, p2] 4 times: 16 stitches
[k2tog, p2tog] twice: 4 stitches (from 8 stitches)
[k2, p2] 7 times: 28 stitches
MARKER
[k2, p2] 12 times: 48 stitches
MARKER
Repeat all of this 3 more times: 384 stitches total (from 400 stitches)
If you look at the first three lines of what I wrote out and add up all the stitches (16 + 4 + 28), it comes to 48! I hope that this helps you better visualize how to approach this decrease round and continue on with your sweater!
All the best,
Lili
Do you have this pattern available in smaller sizes? I’m fairly petite and the smallest size here would be too large for me.
Hi May,
Great question! I am sorry to say that the smallest size that this pattern comes in at present is 34 1/4 inches. Would you be willing to share with us what size would work for you? We are always happy to know sizes that would be helpful for our customers so that we can consider them for the future!
You could also try making the sweater as written but at a smaller gauge. You would certainly need to keep all measurements in mind so that the arms and neck were not too tight. However, if you needed a size just a little smaller, going down very slightly in gauge (adding a stitch or 2 over 4 inches) could be an option without needing to further modify the pattern.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Love the look of this sweater and have been wanting to knit it for awhile. Would Linen quill work for this pattern without altering stitch count? Thank you!
Hi Cindy,
Thank you so much for the kind words! Unfortunately, Linen Quill is too light weight for this pattern. You could use Flax Down, which is a DK weight yarn and has a similar look to Linen Quill!
Best,
Julianna
I am confused with the section “BODY” “Separate front and back” the two underarm sections that you put on a stitch holder are so close to one another. What am I missing?
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! The two sets of stitches placed on holders for the underarms should be on opposite sides of the body. When working this row, keep in mind that you will be repeating all four stitches in the brackets – [p2, k2] – the indicated number of times for your size. For instance, this means that, for the smallest size, you will be repeating [p2, k2] 30 times for a total of 120 stitches between the two underarms.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Well this is my first attempt at a pullover and so far I am enjoying it, the rib breaks up the monotony of straight stockinette!
I am just about finished on my first sleeve, and I am just a bit confused about the last line for the SLEEVE pattern (page 5), what does it mean ‘place previous x stitches’? Does it include the ‘K1 [p2, k2]’ stitches? I know these stitches will be the underarm join to the body, but I just can’t get my head around which exact stitches I should be holding separately!
Thanks in advance
The line in particular –> Next Round: K1, [p2, k2] 1 (1, 1, 2) time(s), place previous 14 (14, 14, 18) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn for Right Underarm, removing end-of-round marker, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2. [78 (86, 94, 98) stitches remain]
Hi Tara,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m so happy to hear you are enjoying knitting your sweater! Yes, the stitches you place on hold will include the stitches you just knitted at the beginning of the round, as well as some stitches from the end of the previous round. You will need to remove the end-of-round marker, as the on-hold stitches will cross over the end-of-round marker.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’m going to make this sweater but would like it to be cropped. Any way you can help account for this modification so that I do not over order on yarn?
Excited!
Annie
Hi Annie,
Thank you for writing in! It’s hard to say without knowing the specific size you desire to knit, but I’ll do my best to help! A general rule of thumb is that the front, back, and sleeves of a sweater each account for 1/3 of the total yardage for the project. However, cables use up considerably more yarn than other stitches, so the ratio for this project may be more like 3/4 for the body and 1/4 for the sleeves. When you decide on a length for your pullover, you’ll want to figure out what percentage of the total length you will be losing, and reduce the torso yardage by that much.
All that being said, I highly recommend erring on the side of caution with this project and buying the total number of suggested skeins for your size- it’s much better to wind up with extra yarn than not enough to finish. You can always return any unused skeins in their original condition for store credit within 6 months!
I hope that makes sense and is helpful!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
Hi – I see you have made some corrections on the Errata page. Could you confirm if the downloadable pattern has been updated? In general, do you update the patterns in PDFs or on the websites if you find mistakes?
Thanks!
Kate
Hi Kate,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, all of our errata have been incorporated into our PDF pattern, and we always do so in all of our patterns as soon as we find an error! If you have already downloaded an older version of the pattern that doesn’t include the corrections, you can always log in to your account here or Ravelry to download the latest version.
Best,
Julianna
I’m have an issue after shaping the yoke, and achieving the 360 stitches as the instructions say. Moving on to the section for size 34 1/2 only, the decrease rounds don’t seem to take into account the decreased single stitches obtained in the yoke shaping. Help! I planned on making 2 of these sweaters for Christmas gifts, so I need any assistance you can give.
Thanks.
Hi Gail
Thanks so much for writing in! After you join the body to the sleeves you will have a total of 368 stitches. I think what may seem confusing here is the number of purl stitches on each side of the markers. After the joining round the Left sleeve will begin with p2 (k2, p2)19x then place a marker, the front stitches will begin with a p2 (k2, p2)26x place marker, right sleeve p2 (k2, p2)19x place marker, and back p2 (k2, p2)26x place end of round marker. There will be 2 purl stitches a marker and another 2 purl stitches 4 times around the sweater. The following Shape Yoke decrease round has p2tog, work in rib to 2 stitches before the marker and ptog, decreasing 2 stitches in each section for a total of 8 stitches. The 4 consecutive purl stitches will have been decreased to 2, and re-established a rib. I hope this helps clear it up for you!
Happy knitting
Jessica
Hi,
I need assistance. I have just completed the first decrease round after joining arms to torso on size 41 1/4. Unfortunately I have ended up with the correct 9 sections but two of them have 52 stitches instead of 48. The incorrect sections are those with the decreases. Each has an extra 4 stitches. May I just repeat the decrease round to get to the correct number of stitches?
Thank you,
Cathy
Hi Cathy
Thanks for writing in! Assuming you had the correct number of stitches when you joined the sleeves to the body, I think maybe you forgot to work the “Shape Yoke” round. This decrease round would remove 8 stitches leaving you with 440 stitches. Another 21 rounds follow, then you jump to the “Size 41 1/2 Only” directions where you are placing the extra markers for the 9 sections. I hope this is the right answer!
Happy knitting
Jessica
Hello!
I’m SO excited to make this sweater and I have a question: I’d like to make in cropped, stopping the body of the sweater at around my waist. Given that, how much yarn should I buy (I know I will need less)?
Thank you!
Hi Annie,
Thanks for writing in! It’s very hard to say how much less you will need, as it will depend on what size you are making and how much length you plan to omit. You can probably safely order one skein less than your size calls for, and any yarn that you don’t need that hasn’t been wound can be returned for store credit. You can view our full return policy here!
Best,
Julianna
I finished knitting this yesterday but my sweater has a round neck not high like the pattern. I followed the short rows but after row 6 it said you would have one wrapped stitch but I had 2, the one after row 5 and the one after row 6. What did I do wrong? I’m now knitting this sweater for my mother so I want it to be perfect. I made the 61 size for me. For my mother I’m making the second size.
Hi Jo,
Thanks for writing in! It’s hard to say what exactly went wrong without seeing your sweater, but it sounds like you might have forgotten to knit two inches of ribbing after finishing the short rows to create the high collar. The instructions for knitting this are a single line right at the top of page 8, so it could be easy to miss!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello again and thank you for your previous response.
I have another question. I have just completed the short row section, however, they are not properly positioned across the nape. My end of row marker sits at the middle of the shoulder. With size 41.75, right side, k1, K2P2 3 times, w&t, Wrong side: P1, K2P2, 13 times but that does not take you past the center of the other shoulder. So my short rows are skewed to the left. Where am I going wrong?
And thanks for noting that there is a final comment on the neck section at the top of page 8. Poor format issue.
Thanks!
Cathy
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for reaching out again! Double-check that the beginning of round marker is at the back(or beginning) of the left shoulder, and should be the only marker remaining at this point. Assuming you have the 96 stitch count correct, on Short Row 1: [K2, p2] 2 (2, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4) (4, 5, 5) times, k1, wrp-t. This will be a total of 13 stitches and a wrp-t. On Short Row 2 (wrong side): P1, [k2, p2] 11 (12, 13, 13) (15, 18, 18) (20, 22, 22) times, k1, wrp-t. for a total of 54 stitches and a wrp-t. This should get you over to the right shoulder area. Hoping this makes sense!
Best
Jessica
I thank you for your previous help regarding the botanical sweater. Unfortunately I have hit a problem with the collar shaping. I can follow the wrap on the short rows but hit a snag when I reach the round after short rows 5 and 6 . It says working remaining wrapped stitch. I have two wrapped stitches rather than one. Could you suggest what I have done wrong.
Hi Barbara
Thanks for the question! It may be that you have missed a short row round, but it may be more likely you forgot to pick up and work your wrap on a previous row. If it looks like the wrap is 1 row below your needle, instead of directly under your needle, this would be the issue. You should be knitting on the wrong side of your work, on all odd rows, and even rows the right side should be facing you. I like to do all wrap and turn rows in one sitting, just so I can stay on track, and complete them without stopping. I hope this helps you!
Best
Jessica
Hola: Mi pregunta es que si compro el patrón ¿ contiene una información suficientemente clara como para entender cómo se debe hacer el punto ?
Y como es lógico tengo que convertir las pulgadas a centímetros no ?
Muchas gracias.
Hi Pedro,
Thanks for writing in! We do our very best to make sure our patterns are as clear and easy to follow as possible! The pattern for this pullover includes full instructions for all parts of the sweater, and the yoke portion is shown in both written and charted form. You will, however, have to convert all the measurements from imperial to metric. We have had many knitters successfully knit this sweater from our pattern, but if you run into any questions while knitting the sweater, we are always here to help!
Best,
Julianna
Hi, at the end of the section ‘Shape Neck’, I used the regular Bind off method, but even though I binded off “loosely”, it is too strong.
I saw your tutorial, the ribbed sewn Bind Off method, to hold the elasticity, explained for a 1×1 ribbing. How can I use this method for the 2×2 ribbing?
Thank you!
Hi Leentje,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately the sewn bind off method we use cannot be modified for 2×2 rib – I’m so sorry about that! Instead, I would recommend looking up a “Kitchener Double Rib Bind Off” using your preferred search engine. That should turn out nice and stretchy!
Best,
Julianna
Hi Purl Soho. Do you think alpaca would suit this sweater pattern?
Thanks!
Hi Jean,
Thanks for reaching out! As long as it is the correct weight, yes, I think an alpaca yarn would be a lovely choice! Our Cashmere Merino Bloom is a DK weight yarn, so just about any DK weight alpaca should work as a substitute. I’m afraid we don’t carry any alpaca yarns matching this description, but you might be interested in our Flax Down, which is an alpaca blend!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
This is such a stunning pattern! I’d love to modify it to have a more fitted waist. Do you have any recommendations on the best way to do that? Thank you so much!!
Hi Laura,
Great question! Adding waist shaping to sweaters takes a bit of planning, but it’s certainly possible and allows for a more customized fit! I would start by measuring how far below your armpit your natural waist is so you have an idea of where to begin and end the decreases and increases. Next, you will need to measure around your natural waist and compare it to your bust measurement to decide how much smaller you would like to make the waist and, using the gauge, decide how many stitches you will have to decrease to get there. You can then sketch the new waist onto our schematic to use a guideline.
For the actual decreases, I would suggest placing a second marker in the body halfway through the stitches to act as a side seam marker. The waist decreases and increases will then be worked on either side of these markers so you are either adding or removing four stitches per row, spacing out the decrease rows so you arrive at your target number of stitches for the waist about an inch before your natural waist, and will then do the same with the increases so you are back at the correct number of stitches before you get to the armholes. Since you are working in ribbing, you will have to work the increases and decreases into the ribbing pattern, just as you did on the sleeves.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
HI,
I am making this sweater. I cast on 68 stitches for the sleeve. I am on row 47 and have 78 stitches on the needle. I’m having trouble reading the pattern. What am I supposed to do next. Row 48 is a row I am supposed to increase on which is what I am facing right now. That would bring me to 80 stitches. What increase row am I supposed to do and how many times? Thank you!!
Hi Stacy,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help, you will be repeating the Increase Round every 8 (8, 8, 6, 6)th round 15 (14, 14, 20, 12) more times, then every 4th round 0 (5, 5, 3, 15) times, 92 (100, 108, 116, 124) stitches. You then work even in rib pattern until piece measures 171⁄2 (18, 18, 181⁄2, 181⁄2) inches from cast-on edge. Finally, the next round you will be K1, [p2, k2] 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) time(s), then place previous 14 (14, 14, 18, 18) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn. Removing the end-of-round marker, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2. [78 (86, 94, 98, 106) stitches remain] you then place the remaining stitches on stitch holders or scrap yarn and set aside. and the follow instructions for the following sleeve!
Please reach out if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Hi there – I have just finished my first sleeve but don’t understand the second-to-last instruction:
Next Round: K1 [p2, k2] 1 time, place previous 14 stitches on stitch holder, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last p2.
If I K1, then put 14 stitches on a stitch holder, then continue knitting in rib, I’ll have to close the circle again with the remaining 78 stiches? I don’t understand what to do at all. Please can I have some help? Thank you!
Hi Natasha,
Thanks for writing in! For the last round you K1, [p2, k2] 1 time, place previous 14 stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn for Right Underarm, removing end-of-round marker, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2. [78 (86, 94, 98) (106, 114, 118) (126, 126, 130) stitches remain]
Cut yarn. Place remaining stitches on stitch holders or scrap yarn and set aside. So there should be two sets of stitches that you place on stitch holders, you aren’t closing the circle!
I hope this clarifies things!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi,
I am knitting this model and I am encoutering an issue on the last row of the right sleeve. I have 92 stitches but when I try to put on hold the 14 stitches, the last 2 stitches I have are k1, p1. Could you please help me ?
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for reaching out! For the final round of the RIGHT SLEEVE section you should K1, [p2, k2] 1 (1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 3) (3, 3, 4) time(s), place previous 14 (14, 14, 18) (18, 18, 22) (22, 22, 26) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn for Right Underarm. You then take out the end-of-round marker, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2. You should then have 78 (86, 94, 98) (106, 114, 118) (126, 126, 130) stitches remaining.
I Hope this clarifies things!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi, me again,
Thanks for your reply to my previous request it helped me a lot. I am encountering a new problem with the shape collar. I am not familiar with the Wrap-t , I watched the tutorial but I’m still lost. Could you please explain me where the short rows are placed on the work? If I follow the instructions (for size 34 1/4) they are after knitting [k2,p2] x2, k1, wrp-t so they should be at the beginning of the round, correct ? I thought that it would be on the back of the collar. If the short rows are made at the beginning of the round, isn’t that going to create an imbalance? Could you please clarify ? Many thanks in advance for your help.
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for reaching out! for the first Short Row 1 (right side) you will be starting at the beginning of the row, [K2, p2] 2 (2, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4) (4, 5, 5) times, k1, wrp-t and then after you turn your work you move directly on to Short Row 2. There wont be an imbalance since wrap and turns are specifically placed within the collar to create shaping!
I hope this helps and please feel free to reach out with any more questions.
All the best,
Gianna
I am knitting size 37 3/4. I am about to join body and sleeves. I have triple checked the spacing and stitches for the body but lost the markers for the sleeves . Consequently I am unsure what type of stiches the first 6 should be as I join in each sleeve. The body end with two p2 st for the left sleeve. What should the next 6 stitches be as I pick up the left sleeve (no decreases done yet)? The same question for the right sleeve. I am a very slow knitter and the thought of not ending up with a correct 2×2 rib when I start the chart is most concerning. It would have been really helpful if there was a second chart for the decrease rounds.
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! When joining the sleeves to the body you will *holding Sleeve and Body’s Left Underarms parallel to each other, use working yarn from Body to work across Left Sleeve stitches as follows: p2, [k2, p2] 21 times, pm; then work across Front stitches as follows: p2, [k2, p2] 29 times,* pm; transfer Right Sleeve stitches to 16-inch circular needles and repeat from * to * for Right Sleeve and Back, ending at end-of-round marker. 408 total stitches: 118 stitches each for Front and Back, 86 stitches for each Sleeve!
I hope this clarifies things, happy knitting!
Gianna
I have purcahsed this pattern and having a difficult time figuring out your sizing. Why are # shown as 60(60, 68, 68) or (78,78, 78)
I wear a medium ladies bust is 39″ arm length 21″ wrist 6 1/2 “. What should I be knitting size wise?
Hi Donna,
Thanks for reaching out! The sizes for this pattern are 34¼ (37¾, 41¼, 44½) (48, 51½, 54¾) (58¼, 61¾, 65¼), 34¼ being the smallest size and 65¼ being the largest. For a 39″ bust I would suggest making the 44½ size! I also recommend checking out our amazing Understanding Ease + Selecting Your Size tutorial, it is an excellent resource to use and will explain in more depth the sizing process! Once you select your size, you will follow the instructions for whichever number within the parentheses. If you decide to go with the 44½ size you would follow all instructions for the 3rd number in the 1st parentheses (For example in the Sleeve section where it says Cast on 60 (60, 68, 68) (68, 68, 76) (76, 76, 76) stitches you would cast on 68 stitches.)
I hope this helps but please feel free to reach out with any more question!
Warmly,
Gianna
I just finished it and it just looks spectacular !
Hi Cécile,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so glad to hear the pullover turn out so well! We would love to see your work, you can email us some photos or tag us on instagram using the #purlsohobusyhands hashtag!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hello,
I am trying to understand which size would be appropriate for me in this unbelievably beautiful sweater ( congratulations to the artist!)
I have read through the comments and seen this same question asked, but am afraid I still didn’t understand the answer.
I have a 37 inch chest, ( and square shoulders)- I definitely want to avoid this sweater being too tight around the cabling ( as I have read in other comments – have already taken notes about the larger needle size to fix this)….
long question is really a short one: which size should I knit: 37.5 inch or 41.5 inch?
Thankyou so much!! Will cast on as soon as I figure this out.
Hi Anna,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! I would recommend checking out our wonderful new tutorial Understanding Ease + Selecting Your Size! It will walk you through the process so that you can select the perfect size for your measurements and the fit you desire!
I hope this helps and let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
Thanks for your reply, it must be so annoying answering these questions when you have already prepared so much information! I realise my question is born from my own ignorance, but I still am not clear on the answer.
I had actually read through the guide, and this pattern states things differently than the guide; just enough to cause me to have doubts.
The pattern states the SIZE and FINISHED CIRCUMFERENCE, it does not state which actual chest circumference that refers to.
My doubts come from the fact that the pattern says the garment is designed with 2 -4 inches ease, but is that ease built into the pattern already ? (and therefore size 37 is for a 37 chest because the ease is already incorporated?)
This doubt is emphasised my the rib stitch which has a lot of stretch!
Basically, I think my question is this: is the ease incorporated into the pattern ( ie, for my 37 chest I choose size 37) or do I have to add on the ease in choosing size (ie, choose size 41 for my 37 chest.)
Again, sorry for these annoying questions, surely they will become second nature after I have been knitting for a lot longer than now!
Thankyou, Anna
Oh dear, I realise I also have another debutants question about for obtaining gauge: I have blocked my gauge swatch, do I need to stretch it in the process? What does “relaxed” mean in this case? Thankyou
Hi Anna,
No worries- I am happy to help! You should select the size with the ease in mind. So for example the sizes for the pattern are: 34 1⁄4 (37 3⁄4, 41 1⁄4, 44 1⁄2) (48, 51 1⁄2, 54 3⁄4) (58 1⁄4, 61 3⁄4, 65 1⁄4) and the are To fit actual chest circumference of 29 1⁄4–31 1⁄4 (32 3⁄4–34 3⁄4, 36 1⁄4–38 1⁄4, 39 1⁄2–41 1⁄2) (43–45,
46 1⁄2–48 1⁄2, 49 3⁄4–51 3⁄4) (53 1⁄4–55 1⁄4, 56 3⁄4–58 3⁄4, 60 1⁄4–62 1⁄4) inches, with 3–5 inches of ease. So If your chest is 37″ I would recommend making the 41 1⁄4 size since it will fit an actual chest size of 36 1⁄4–38 1⁄4!
As for your second question, once you knit your swatch and have wet it you will want to stretch it a bit in each direction and then lay it out flat, shaping it a bit and then let it dry! For a gauge swatch you want to let it dry relaxed and not pinned into place! I recommend checking out our Blocking and All About Gauge tutorial if you haven’t already for some great tips!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
THANKYOU, you are the best. Ok , off to confuse myself with the cabling!
Hello!
I’m making this for the first time and am far into the yoke section. It looks like the twists and turns are not exactly aligning. It’s almost like they are staggered. I’m not sure if this will just work itself out and perhaps it is correct. Can someone assist?
Hi Annie,
Thanks for reaching out! You could send our team some photos of your work to [email protected] and they can troubleshoot further from there!
All the best,
Gianna
I’m so excited about this pattern and am knitting up my gauge swatch right now in Flax Down. I’m having a little trouble reading the gauge instructions. Is it 28 stitches vertically or horizontally over 4 inches? And 32 rounds? I’m knitting a flat swatch, so that confuses me as well.
This is my second sweater (1st with this pattern) to knit & my first one I did not gauge first and regret it, so I want to get it right this time.
Thanks so much!
Hi Leslie,
Thanks for reaching out! The gauge is 28 stitches = 4″ (this is measured horizontally and depends on how many stitches you cast on) and 32 rows = 4″ (this is measured vertically and depends on how many rows you work) in 2 x 2 ribbing. Also, keep in mind that this gauge is measured after blocking! You do not need to swatch in the round since this is just a basic 2 x 2 rib pattern, swatching flat is just fine. Swatching in the round is only necessary for more complex stitch patterns or colorwork when the wrong side rows are not provided in the pattern instructions!
For more information about gauge and swatching I suggest checking out our tutorial All About Guage.
I hope this clears things up, happy knitting!
Gianna
I’m planning to knit this sweater, but I am trying to avoid an issue I’ve had with other bottom-up yoked sweaters. I think I’m a little shorter than average from underarms to neck. As a result, when I finish the yoke, the underarms droop down so far that the sweater is really uncomfortable. Do you have any suggestions on how to avoid this? I’ll be making the 41 1/4″ size. I really love this pattern. Thank you.
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out. The best way to shorten the yoke would be to modify or omit the “Repeat last round 10 (14, 19, 23) (25, 27, 29) (31, 33, 35) more times” instruction in the SHAPE YOKE section. In this portion of the pattern, you’re just knitting in 2 x 2 ribbing for a bit, which adds length to the yoke, but since you want to avoid that, you can do this for fewer rounds!
I hope this helps you knit a sweater that fits you well!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you very much. I will certainly try that!
Hi – Thank you so much for your help on how to decrease the rib pattern on the sleeves. It worked out beautifully! I’m loving working with this gorgeous yarn and pattern which is a little bit of a challenge for me.
I wanted to check in with you before I decrease 24 stitches (for size 34.25 in the “Shape Yoke” section (after the decrease round that gets one to 360 stitches from 368 and the subsequent 9 rows). My shoulders are a little broad and I’m worried the sweater will be too tight. I’m curious why so many decreases at a point in the sweater where my body doesn’t get smaller. Am I reading the pattern incorrectly? I’ve haven’t seen this in a pattern before but am usually knitting raglan sleeves. Would you say this pattern is closer to a set-in sleeve?
Thanks again! Cathy
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m glad to hear that this pattern has been an exciting challenge for you! You bring up a great point, and I first want to assure you that the sweater will end up fitting great as written. The reason that there are so many stitches decreased on that one round is to set up for the cabled yoke. The pattern gets super intricate at this point, so there needs to be a specific stitch count for all the details to work out.
In terms of the size, it’s not that the sweater gets too tight here, it’s actually that everything previously has been slightly on the looser side of things! And with the constant 2 x 2 ribbing, the knit fabric at any point has tons of stretch, so it will conform to the shape of your body throughout the entire sweater.
And in answer to your question about the construction style of this pattern, it is closest to a circular yoke! That’s because the yoke decreases are spread out relatively evenly around the entire yoke, rather than being separated into 4 “seams,” like in a raglan yoke construction.
I hope this helps clarify things, but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili
Hi – I finished the sweater and it looks fantastic. Thank you for all your help (I wrote to you twice!). What blocking method do you recommend to protect both the ribbing and the cabling?
Thank you, Cathy
Hi Catherine,
Congrats, and you’re very welcome! I’d recommend wet blocking the pullover and laying it flat to dry. It’s important not to stretch your project out too much while it’s soaking though, so a good tip for a large project like a sweater is to put it in a pillowcase before placing it in the water to soak so that the entire project can be removed from the water without stretching, and the excess water can be gently pressed out before laying it flat to dry. This will help maintain the definition of the cables and ribbing!
All the best,
Lili
I am confused about the “Shape Yoke” step and am hoping you can help me. In the decrease round, I P2tog 4 times, so each the marker I have K2P2K2p1K2P2 in 4 places. Which decreases by 4 to make a full “set,” but not all together. If I do K2P2 on the following rounds, the ribbing is offset by 1 stitch. Is that what is supposed to happen? It looks and feels wrong. Am I missing something?
Hi Kathy,
We are so sorry you are running into issues on this project but we are determined to get you back on track! After you complete the joining round, you will have 4 purl stitches in a row at each marker (2 purls on each side). That’s because you begin working across each section with a p2 and also end with a p2. then, you work a p2tog on each side of each marker, taking the groups of 4 purl stitches and turning them into a normal rib of 2 purls. finally, you move the end-of-round marker over by one stitch so that it falls between a knit and a purl rib, rather than in the middle of a purl rib. From there, you can repeat [k2, p2] across the whole round and stay in pattern! I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gavriella
Your team does a great job of answering pattern questions clearly and completely. I am working on the Botanical sweater, just finished the sleeves and now starting the body. You have already answered some of my questions in your past responses to others, so thank you.
Hi Christine,
You are very welcome and thank YOU so much for the kind words! I will be sure to share this with our team.
All the best,
Gavriella
Will this pattern work as well in Nigh DK?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for writing in! Nigh DK is a perfect choice for this pattern. I’d just recommend knitting up a gauge swatch before starting the project in order to determine what needles to use. You may need to size your needles up or down in order to match the gauge of the pattern!
All the best,
Lili