Peaks Pullover
Our Peaks Pullover is the kind of sweater for which you ignore all the others in your closet. It features flattering and thoughtful details and is day-in-and-day-out cozy and comfortable!
Knit in the round from bottom to top, this pattern starts with some short rows to create a sloped back hem, then moves on to add more and more ribs until they join in a pretty peak below the chest.
After joining the sleeves (which have their own little peaks) and working the raglan decreases, the Peaks Pullover Pattern gives you a choice of collars, ranging in height from crewneck to folding turtleneck.
And on top of all the Peaks Pullover’s beautiful details is our beautiful Cashmere Merino Bloom. A nice light worsted weight, Cashmere Merino Bloom has a soft halo and a super cozy feel, making it the perfect yarn for this very special knit!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Adam Aronowitz.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoPeaksPullover, and #PurlSohoCashmereMerinoBloom. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 6 (6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10) skeins of Purl Soho’s Cashmere Merino Bloom, 75% extra fine merino wool, 25% cashmere. Each skein of this light worsted/DK yarn is 218 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1200 (1315, 1500, 1570, 1725, 1890, 2100) yards required. We used Dove Gray.
You’ll also need…
- US 6 (4mm), 32-inch circular needles
- US 6, 24-inch circular needles
- US 6, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 6 double pointed needles
- 5 stitch markers, including a unique one
- 4 stitch holders or some scrap yarn
- A Peaks Pullover Pattern
NOTE: Looking to knit your sleeves in double-time? Swap the double pointed needles for 32-inch or longer circular needles, and check out our Magic Loop: Two At A Time Tutorial!
Gauge
24 stitches and 32 rounds = 4 inches in 2 x 2 rib stitch
22 stitches and 32 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
33¼ (36, 38¾, 41¼, 44, 46¾, 49¼)
To fit actual chest circumference 30–31 (33–34, 35–36, 38–39, 41–42, 43–44, 46–47) inches, with approximately 2–3 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 33¼ (36, 38¾, 41¼, 44, 46¾, 49¼) inches
- Finished Length from Base of Back Neck to Back Bottom Edge: 24 (24½, 26, 26¾, 28, 29½, 31½) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Cuff: 17½ (17½, 18, 18, 18½, 18½, 18½) inches
SAMPLE: The sweater pictured here is size 38¾ inches modeled with 4¼ inches of ease.
Pattern
The Peaks Pullover pattern is available for purchase as either a hard copy or download.
Learn About Cashmere Merino Bloom + All Our Beautiful Yarns
Soft, supple, and toasty warm, Cashmere Merino Bloom is an absolute knitting joy! A light worsted/DK-weight yarn, it is made with 25% of the most exquisite cashmere in the world and 75% extra fine merino wool and benefits from both fibers: cashmere for over-the-top softness and beautiful bloom and merino for resilience, durability, and even more softness. Cashmere Merino Bloom has an incredible hand feel with a gentle halo that illuminates your knitting… A gorgeous choice!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our collection of (mostly free!) Cashmere Merino Bloom patterns and cast on!
More Light Worsted/ DK Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of light worsted/ DK-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop cashmere yarn
- Shop merino wool yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
For thes “Peaks” Pullover, to knit in a size medium, how many skeins would I need, and how much would that cost – plus the cost of the pattern?..and where are you located? For shipping, I am in Canada
Hi Johanna,
Thanks for writing in! Our sizing is based on the measurement of the fullest part of your chest. We feel like this is a bit more accurate that standard sizing and gives you a better idea of how well your finished item will fit. The sizes for this sweater are 33¼ (36, 38¾, 41¼, 44, 46¾, 49¼) inches. These sizes are to fit an actual chest circumference 30–31 (33–34, 35–36, 38–39, 41–42, 43–44, 46–47) inches, with approximately 2–3 inches of ease. So depending on which size works best for your measurements, you will need 6 (6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10) skeins.
As to cost, if you are able to purchase during our 20% off of 6 or more skeins of Cashmere Merino Bloom, the cost will be between $166.10 and $268.50. After the promotion ends, the cost would be between $204.50 and $332.50. Shipping to Canada is based on weight of the package with costs starting at $22.75. More information about shipping can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/shipping/
We are located in the Soho neighborhood of NYC and our warehouse (where web orders are shipped from) is located in Southern California!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi. I am have joined the body and the sleeves and am at the shaping the yoke part. Where does the established pattern begin? At the marker in the middle of the back? Is this where a round starts and ends?
On the “Decreased round 1, work in established pattern to 2 stitches before next marker”…is the “next marker” the first sleeve marker that I come to? I am confused here…do I decrease at each marker except the middle of the back marker?
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! The center back marker should be the one that indicates when a round starts/ends, so once you come to that and pass it, for the decrease round, you will knit to the next marker you come to which should be the first marker past the end of round marker.
I hope this clears things up, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thanks, I got that part.
I am stuck now on the neckline. This is how I understand the short rows…Short row 1…at each marker on the left sleeve, do I do a wrp-t or is it only on the 2nd marker I do the wrp-t?
Short row 2…working on the wrong side, do I do a wrp-t after each marker or do I “sm” each marker till I get past the 4th one (right sleeve) to do the wrp-t ?
I’m lost on row 3
Hi Mary-Lou,
I can absolutely help clear up your questions about the short rows! On Short Row 1, you will work past two markers and then do the wrp-t (so no wrp-t after the first one you pass!). Short Row 2 is the same–you’ll simply slip the markers until you get past the 4th one and then do the wrp-t. For Short Row 3, you can actually disregard the markers at this point! Just work in pattern, slipping the markers as you come to them, until you have only 4 stitches before the previous wrapped stitch, and then work the wrp-t. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
It’s absulutely perfect
It’s just gorgeous!
If I buy the pattern are there pictures of the different neckline options?
HI Alexis,
Great question! There are not photos of the alternate necklines in the pattern.
Best,
Cassy
Have been all over looking in the last week for a pattern just like this . fantastic thanks
I love this pattern, but am wondering if it could be knit in a lighter yarn for a spring sweater? I made the botanical yoke sweater in cashmere merino bloom and it is super warm (and heavy). Would be nice to knit something I could wear soon!
Hello Kathleen,
Thank you for reaching out! I would suggest looking at our Understory and our Flax Down for lighter options. I would be sure, as always, to knit a gauge swatch to make sure that you can get the requisite gauge for the sweater.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Looks lovely! But if I did NOT want the dropped hem in back, which I’d like not to have — could I skip the short rows, and just start knitting in the round? Would that be possible, do you think?
Thank you — I’m a new knitter who loves Purl Soho. You all are just splendid.
Hello Sue,
Thank you for reaching out and for giving us such a lovely compliment! Yes- if you would like to omit the dropped hem all you need to do is ignore the short rows.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi, beautiful pullover! I’m already working on it but I have a question on the pattern:
Shaping the hem, after the short row 3 & 4 repeats, “Next Short Row (wrong side)¨:
Purl to 1 st before LS Seam marker, k1, sm, k1, purl to wrapped stitch… Here my next wrapped stitch would be all the way thru the front of the pullover until around the RS Seam marker, is this ok? Or did I miss one wrp-turn??
Hello Regina,
Thank you for your question! It looks like you did miss a short row round. After the short row 3 & 4 repeats you should come to
“Next Short Row (right side): Knit to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, slip marker (sm), p1, k8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11), wrp-t.”
rather than
“Next Short Row (wrong side): Purl to 1 stitch before Left Side Seam Marker, k1, sm, k1, purl to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, sm, k1, p8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11), wrp-t.”
Is your pattern missing this row or did it just get lost in the shuffle?
I hope this helps and let me know if you have any further questions.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi Marilla, same issue here.
“Next Short Row (wrong side): Purl to 1 stitch before Left Side Seam Marker” will have to go all the way around the front (on the wrong side you always get to the right side marker after all the purling). “purl to wrapped stitch” would then require you to continue all the way round once again. The question is: do the short rows ever go around the front, or only stay on the back? If the answer is yes, then “Left” and “right” should be switched in the instructions (after all of the row 3-4 repeats)…
This jumper is completely gorgeous but can you please tell me, is this bundle of woolly gorgeousness something a beginner knitter could make? I’ve knitted a jumper before but not for about 30 years! And if not, do you have something similar that may be easier? Thank you for your help! 🙂
Hello Jen,
Thank you for reaching out and for such kind words! This sweater has is knit bottom up with short row shaping. I would say that the most difficult part of this sweater is the short rows, so if you are comfortable with that then I say go for it! I think you can do it and If you need help along the way, we are here for you!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
This is such a beautiful sweater. For more color options, does Purl make another similar yarn to the CMB?
Hello Alexis,
Thank you for reaching out! For a similar gauge and more color options check out our Flax Down or our Understory yarn. Both of these yarns have a slightly smaller gauge so you will need to knit up a gauge swatch before jumping in.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Salve sono Manola e vi scrivo dall’ Italia …sono molto affascinata da tutte le vs proposte ma anche un po’ dispiaciuta perché pur desiderando le vs pregiate e stupende lane non posso acquistarle perché i prezzi sono un po’ proibitivi se si pensa anche alle spese di trasporto ve seguo da almeno 3 anni e ho imparato tantissime tecniche avrei tanto piacere di realizzare alcuni dei vs modelli ma non mi trovo con i pollici …noi qui in europa usiamo il sistema metrico decimale comunque siete sempre il top e scusatemi per aver scritto in italiano saluti e buona fortuna.
Ciao manola
Hi Manola,
Thanks for writing in!We totally hear you regarding including metric sizes and measurements. This is something that is currently under consideration so we really appreciate your input!
When I need to translate a pattern from metric to US imperial, I like to use Google’s conversion tools. I type “convert cm to inches” into Google and a purpose built calculator will appear. You can certainly do the same thing in reverse to convert all of the measurements you seek into metric!
Additionally, we certainly understand your concerns about the high cost of international shipping, and we very much wish that we were able to lower these costs for our customers. In truth, we have done all that we can to keep our costs as low as possible, while ensuring that packages are reliably delivered. Please also understand that, since we are a smaller company, bulk shipping rates that bring costs down for other companies are not available to us.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello!
I just love your patterns and yarns. This will be my second Purl sweater in > month (gasp!) when is your 20% off sale? I love this blend.
Thanks!
Hi Sue,
Thanks for writing in and for your very kind words! At present, we do not have plans for a sale at this time.
Best,
Cassy
buonasera . Io vorrei sapere cosa significa estensione delle coste:
giro 1 e giro 5 . dopo la spiegazione delle maglie, dice “ripetere due volte, diritto fino alla fine del giro. Ho un po di dubbi. Attendo chiarimenti. Grazie
Maria dall’Italia.
Hello Maria,
Thank you for reaching out- I hope I can help! I believe your question is in regards to the Row 1 and Row 5 of the Rib Pattern Expansion. In this section you are creating upside down “V” shape by expanding the rib pattern. In rows 1 and 5 you are creating new rib patterns to expand the rib. The last row of this section is when the whole body has become a rib pattern so you will repeat this row until your sweater is the correct length.
I hope this clarifies the pattern and if you have any further questions let us know!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Love this pattern. Using your Cashmere Merino Bloom – Size 38-3/4 – size 7 needles.
There is an error with the hem shaping short row on page 4 of the pattern, last row instruction in left column…should be “purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, P9 (9.10…), wrp-t ….rather than K9.
Question on sleeve increase for 38-3/4 size: page 8, left column, top increase instructions. Rib pattern now spans circumference of the sleeve and increases will be made into the rib pattern. Following instructions for my size the rib pattern is dropped in 4th paragraph and increases are purl. 5th paragraph calls for more purl increases. Help. Either I’m not reading this correctly or there is an error in the pattern.
Hello Rox,
Thank you for your insights! The error in the Hem section of the pattern is in our Errata page, and has been updated in newer copies of the pattern.
However we appreciate you letting us know about this error as our knitting community is usually how we are able to find these types of errors- so than you!
In the sleeve section the rib should continue around the sleeve, but the way the increases fall the rib expands to incorporate your new stitches, so it will not be in a 2×2 rib the whole time. It is a bit tricky to explain this without a visual aid so I’m going to e-mail you a couple of photos of this section. Luckily our sample in our shop is a size 38 3/4! I hope this makes sense and is helpful, of course if you have any more questions please let us know!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
HI,
I love this sweater, especially the longer hem in the back!
But…..
I am also having a hard time with the sleeve/ sleeve increase. I am knitting the size 36″. On page 7, near the bottom, it calls for a M1P increase at start and end of round, resulting in 4 purl stitches across. So, I haven’t the 2×2 rib yet, but the pattern says I should. It also says to knit 7 rounds in this established pattern. Do I have this right?
Also, for the Knit Increase Round, only adding one K stitch and then 7 rounds again-does this mean there will be a 1x 2 rib going up the inside of sleeve?
Admittedly, the sleeve is pretty confusing. It would be helpful if you included pictures of the inside of the sleeve in the patter. Also, if you included a note on how to M1L and M1R. Unless I have totally messed it up, I am assuming there is a 2P rib up the inside?
Can you send me some pictures of the inside (start of round)
Thanks,
Ashley
Hi Ashley,
Thanks for writing in! It’s difficult to say what might have gone wrong, but you should be entirely in 2×2 rib before beginning the section titled “For Sizes 33 1/4 and 36 Only.” Have you counted to make sure you have the right number of stitches total before beginning this step? If you are short, you may have missed a repeat of a Sleeve Increase and Rib Expansion row.
Unfortunately, I don’t have a picture of the inside of the sleeve, but it does sound like you are reading this step correctly. There are two purl stitches running up the inside of the sleeve throughout, almost like a false seam, and while doing the last few increases and working them into the rib pattern, you will have four purl stitches for 7 rows, and then K1, P2, K1 for 7 rows. Eventually, once the increases are done, you should have 2×2 rib going around the entire sleeve! If you aren’t sure if you have done the Make 1 stitches correctly, you can check our tutorial on Make 1 Right and Make 1 Left.
Best of luck, and I hope that helps!
Julianna
I would like to knit this in merino wool rather than cashmere. Which yarn would you recommend to make this substitution? I realize that gauge will be most important to be sure of the size.
Thank you!
Hi Judy,
Thanks for writing in! Although we don’t have a 100% merino that is exactly the same weight as Cashmere Merino Bloom, I think you would come closest with Woolfolk Far – it is slightly heavier, but as long as you knit a gauge swatch to see if you need to adjust your needle size, it should still make a soft bouncy fabric at this gauge! You might also want to consider Good Wool or Brooklyn Tweed Arbor as wool options that are a similar weight.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
So I just finished making the peaks pullover, and I love it, however despite making the smallest size, after soaking to block, it has grown to double the size….like it’s a dress. Still cute, but I really just want a sweater! The neck was perfect before I soaked it, now it’s all limp and floppy. Why does this happen to me?! The same thing happened when I made the top- down turtleneck cardigan:( What am I doing wrong?
Hi Suzy,
I’m sorry to hear you are having troubles with your finished sweaters! This is not an uncommon problem, and is usually the result of only measuring an unblocked gauge swatch – many yarns bloom, grow, or change gauge in other ways when soaked, so for best results you should wash and block your gauge swatch the same way you plan on washing and blocking your finished garment before measuring it and adjust your needle size accordingly.
I would also recommend being extra careful when removing your sweater from the sink or basin it was soaked in, as the wet yarn gets very heavy and can stretch out easily at that point. I like to unplug my sink before removing whatever I am washing and hold it out of the way while the water drains, gently press on the garment to squeeze out a bit more water, then fully support it in my hands while moving it to a towel so nothing is hanging down and stretching out. Once it’s on the towel, I will carefully unbunch it before rolling it up and squeezing as much water as I can into the towel. At that point you can gently lift it and move it to the blocking surface and arrange the garment into the correct shape and size.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Wondering how this pattern would hold up if the “peaks” were omitted in favor of consistent rib all the way down ? Has anyone tried this? Looks like will likely lose a little bit of the A-line/trazpeze shape the finished sweater appears to have in the images, but I’m ok with that.
Thanks!
Hi Julia,
Thanks for writing in! Although we haven’t seen any versions with this modification, the pattern should be very easy to adapt to work completely in ribbing! You are correct that it will have less of an A-line shape and may be a bit more form fitting throughout the body, but I think it would be a lovely classic ribbed sweater. The short rows to shape the sloped back hem may require a bit more thought when working them into ribbing, but it should be very doable! I would suggest purchasing one extra skein of yarn since ribbing takes a little more yardage than stockinette.
Best of luck and please let us know how your version turns out!
Julianna
Hi Julia,
Not sure you will get this, but did you end up successfully changing the hem? I ask because i love this sweater except for the rolled and uneven hem. And since it is bottom-up, I find it would be hard for me to know how much shorter I’d like it and how to properly change the hem to my liking without seeing the top done first…Can you share your project with us? Thank you!
I would like to adjust the pattern to allow for the size 44 at hips and size 41 at bust. It seems to me that I will need to decrease 16 stitches between the hem and underarm to do this. Can you please share some advice as to how to space these decreases as I am knitting the body?
thank you,
Jen
Hello Jen,
Thank you for reaching out! I think it makes the most sense to put your decreases on each side of your sweater where seams would be, if this sweater were seamed. This means you will need to decrease by 8 stitches on each side. How you space these decreases out might need a bit of experimentation, though I would recommend placing them every other row or every third row.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi – I am nearing the end of knitting my peaks pullover for my daughter, loving the result and want to make another for me now! My question relates to the neckline short rows:
The pattern says (short row 1) work to next marker (which would be the marker for the first sleeve part), sm 2 times (which would be the market for the end of the first sleeve), wrp-t. Since the rounds start at centre back, doesn’t this mean I would have the short rows increasing just one side/shoulder area? I would have thought these should cover the area across the front of the sweater, between the two sleeve/shoulder parts? I’m so confused now! Should the rows incorporate both sleeve/shoulder parts as well, or just the front between the sleeves? Any way I read it, it’s not making sense to me… (I know it can’t mean just one shoulder part which is what strictly reading seems to be saying, but I can’t work out whether to incorporate both shoulders or just between the shoulders across the front). Hope my question makes sense!!
Thanks
Carol
Hello Carol,
Thank you for reaching out! The short row shaping in the neckline portion of this pattern occurs in the back of the sweater. This functions as a way to lift up the back slightly. You will be going all the way past both sleeve markers for your first two short rows and then the short rows will be inside your two sleeve markers.
I hope this helps and let us know if we can clarify any of this for you!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I am just about finished with the sweater and have a question in the short row section of the pattern. I am a little confused on the way the pattern is written here. There are three short rows here but I am unsure on just how to proceed with them. Can someone please help me out? I do not want to do this wrong and ruin this gorgeous sweater.
Thanks
Kelly
Hello Kelly,
Thank you for reaching out and congratulations of being almost finished with your sweater!! Is there a specific part of the instructions that is throwing you or is it in a more general sense? If you are feeling generally unsure of how to proceed I highly recommend watching our video tutorial on short rows. It will give you detailed instruction on how we create short rows in our patterns.
If you continue to have questions please let us know!
Warmly,
Marilla
Dear Purl Soho,
I love the Peaks Pullover pattern. I’m wondering if a tubular cast on would work to prevent rolling on the hem? If so, would I need to cast on more stitches to allow for a little more stretch? I’ve done tubular cast on for 1×1 ribbing and it creates a beautiful hem.
Thanks,
Cheryl
Hello Cheryl,
Thank you for reaching out! You can certainly do a long tail tubular cast on for this sweater and you wouldn’t need to change the cast on number.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m just about finished and absolutely love it! What blocking method would you recommend for this pattern?
Thank you!
Keelin
Hi Keelin,
Thanks for writing in, and congratulations on your newest sweater! I generally prefer to wet block finished garments – not only does this give you the most flexibility in shaping the sweater and evening out your stitches, it will also wash away any skin oils or dirt that may be on the yarn from the natural process of knitting the same object for weeks or months. I would, however, be careful not to block the ribbing too aggressively. I would just gently reshape the sweater to the dimensions on the schematic in the pattern and allow it to air dry.
Best of luck and enjoy your pullover!
Julianna
Dear PurlSoho,
I’m working on my gauge for Peaks Pullover. I’m knitting the gauge flat. On the 2×2 ribbing KNIT column, the left stitch is consistently larger than the right stitch. I’ve been tugging the yarn to the back after the first purl stitch to tighten the yarn. Do you have any tips to help me get the two knit stitches more consistent in size? Or, do you think it might not be an issue when knitting in the round? This size difference is the same on the back and the front (knitting flat). Thanks for any tips. I’ve checked the internet and can’t find any helpful hints. Sorry to bother you.
Hi Cheryl,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds as though your transition from knit to purl may be a bit loose. This is a common issue and I find the the best way to help is to pull the yarn a bit more tightly when purling the first stitch after a knit. Alternately, you can pull the yarn to the front after completing the first purl stitch to tighten it and the knit stitch that precedes it. You will then want to pull down on the whole of the work to even the stitches out. It also might be worth seeing if blocking your swatch (without using the above) evens out the stitches. A good wet block in warm water tends to even out stitches and will let you know how your fabric will look when washing it!
Best,
Cassy
I am just about finished with the Peaks pullover and loving it so far. I am working on the neckline section and I’m confused about the short rows. First of all, I assume that I do not continue decreasing while doing the short rows. Correct? I see from a previous conversation that the short rows are in the back. Does this mean that they are all in the back between the left back sleeve marker and the right back sleeve marker? In short row 3, it says to work to 4 stitches before the previous wrapped stitch. At this point there have been 2 wrapped stitches. Does this really mean the previous wrapped stitch or does it mean the first wrapped stitch? Thanks for clarifying this for me.
Hello Rita,
Thank you for reaching out! The short rows are placed in the back to shape and lift the shoulders. When it says to knit to previously wrapped stitch it will be the first wrapped stitch you come to when knitting towards it.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello getting near the end. I want to make standing turtleneck but not sure where the 4 inches measures from, and you please clarify? Thanks
Hello Joan,
Thank you for reaching out! You will knit for 4 inches from your last neckline row. From “Next Round: Work one round in established pattern,
working wrapped stitches with their wraps as you go.”
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m working the sleeve in a size 41. I’m on page 8 “for sizes 41 and 44 inches only” I can’t seem to make the numbers work to end with 96 stitches. Has there been an update to the pattern?
Thanks.
Hello Rachael,
Thanks for reaching out! This portion of the pattern is correct, how many stitches do you start this section with and how many are you ending up with? From my calculations you should be starting with 78 stitches and ending with 96. The whole section has 8 increases which you do twice and then the the last step is to repeat the increase one more time, which adds 2 stitches. This means you are adding 18 stitches.
I hope this all makes sense and let us know if you have further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi
I love this pattern and would like to make it for my husband without the high-low hem (i.e. no drop at the back). The biggest size measurements listed should fit fine. How would I adapt this pattern for a man? Also, is the shape very A-line – if so, it may look weird?
Thank you so much for your help
Hi Deepa,
Great question! I think this would be a great mens’ sweater – in fact, if you check the projects on Ravelry, the very first one is modeled by a man! To omit the high-low hem, you will just have to skip the short rows in the “Shape Hem” section of the pattern and begin with the next section, titled “Continue Body.”
Happy knitting, and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Greetings from Ireland. Have just purchased your peaks sweater pattern and am itching to get started. Can you tell me what weight is in a skein? And how much would it be to ship enough wool for the largest size sweater to Ireland.
Hello Corina,
Thank you for reaching out from Ireland! We used Cashmere Merino Bloom to knit up this lovely sweater which is a Dk weight yarn. You can find all of our international shipping rates here.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
As i am a tall lady, i would like to make the finished length about 2 inches longer. I am size 41and a quarter (your ref.). What is the simplest way to go about this. I am a novice knitter. Love the look of this sweater and am excited about making it.
Hello Corina,
Thank you for reaching out! I would reccomend adding length When you come to “Repeat last round until Body measures 14 (14, 15, 151⁄2, 161⁄2,171⁄2, 181⁄2) inches from cast-on edge, measured at Center Front.” I would just keep knitting until you get to your desired inches.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Very much appreciate being able to get help on this lovely pattern which is tricky! Under the SHAPE HEM section, i’m confused about Short Row 3 – “Knit to wrapped stitch”. There are two wrapped stitches so far – the one at the end of Short Row 2 and the one at the end of Short Row 1. If it’s the former, then it is the very first stitch on Short Row 3 which doesn’t make sense. If it’s the latter, that means I knit all the way back 66 stitches to the first wrapped stitch ( I am doing the size that casts on 280 stitches.) It would be helpful if the stitch count were included for every step rather than just “knit to wrapped stitch.” Really hope you can help!(It’s hard to recognize the wrapped stitch, also.)
Hello Lyn,
Thank you for reaching out! I hope I can help. During the short row section you will be turning your work after wrapping your stitch. This means that after wrapping your stitch you will always turn your work and knit back to the stitch that you most recently wrapped, before the wrap you just did. It is tricking to explain this, but I would reccomend watching our tutorial video for a visual description.
I hope this helps and let us know if we can clarify anything!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I’m really enjoying knitting my Peaks Pullover, but I am confused about the shaping yoke part. For reference, I am knitting the size 41 1/4. The pattern says “Repeat Decrease Round 1 every 4th round 1 time, then every other round 26 times.” I am confused about the order here. Do I knit Decrease Round 1 one time, work even in established pattern for three rounds, then work the decrease round again? And after I complete this part, do I then work the 26 rounds? And is it that I am decreasing 26 times (so doing 52 rows), or am I only decreasing 13 times? Also, the next part explains how to do Decrease Round 2. Do I only move on to Decrease Round 2 once I complete the many rounds involved in Decrease Round 1?
One more question: are the decreases what form the raglan shaping/that nice diagonal line near the neckline? I apologize for all the questions and appreciate your help as I complete my first sweater!
Hello Julia,
Thank you for reaching out! This is a confusing bit. For size 41 1/2 you will be going from 360 stitches to 136 stitches. You will knit your decrease round and then begin your repeats. You will then repeat your decrease round 1 after knitting three rounds. Now you will begin decreasing every other round so you will knit ONE round and then knit your round 1 decreases. This will be 52 rounds.
I hope this clears things up for you and let me know if I can clarify anything for you!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi,
I was wonder if you could tell me when do I start Decrease 2. I’m assuming after reading this reply is starts after the 52 rounds of Decrease 1.
Thank you. 😊
Hi Constance,
Thanks for reaching out with your question! The number of rows you will be knitting for the Decrease Round 1 section will depend on the size sweater you are making. If you’re making the size 36 sweater, you’re correct that you will be working 52 rounds before starting Decrease Round 2!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly
Hi. I wanted to clarify something. I have attached the arms and am working the decrease rounds towards the yoke. With the SSK, the K is on a purl stitch. When you continue with the regular rows in between , should this stitch then be knit or go back to purl? Or have I done something wrong? Many thanks.
Hi
I wrote yesterday with a query on this pattern but I have now figured out what I was doing wrong. Rather than the SS, then knit those two stitches to decrease, I was literally doing SS, then a knit stitch. All fine know.
Thanks!
Hi Petra,
I’m so glad you were able to figure it out! If you run into any other questions please don’t hesitate to ask!
Best,
Julianna
I did the k2tog and the SSK correctly, but in the next row when I get to 4 stitchers before the markers I have a K2 p1,k1 then the marker, k1 , p1, K2 after the marker. Should I just knit it that way until the next decrease round??
Hi Constance!
Thank you for your post! Yes, rounds worked in between decrease rounds will be worked the way you described. The two K1s on either side of the marker will create the diagonal raglan stripe, wile the purl stitches continue on the ribbed design. Together, these shape the intersection of the diagonal raglan stripe and the vertical ribbed stripes!
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Thank you!
Theses Q&A’s have been extremely helpful. I’m really glad you are still monitoring them. Just getting ready to start the short rows and I’m very confident with the information here I’ll be able to follow the pattern better.
You are very welcome, Constance, and we are glad to hear our answers have been helpful!
Happy knitting,
Margaret
I have finished the sweater and after washing and blocking it fit great!
Unfortunately after the second wash the neck grew so wide it’s part of my shoulders now. It seems that it need some kind of support to keep from stretching out. Any ideas on how that could be achieved? I tried putting it in the dryer to shrink it up a bit, but it’s super wash merino and not going to shrink. 😑
Hi Constance,
Thanks for reaching out, although I’m sorry to hear that the neckline has stretched out to that extent! Wool yarn does tend to loose some elasticity over time, especially in a ribbing stitch pattern. In cases like this, I always recommend adding in some elastic thread to the neckline to maintain the elasticity! You can do this by sewing it into a few rounds of the neckline, or you can even use duplicate stitch to camouflage it within the knit stitches of the hat. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hello. I am working on my first sleeve and I am in the middle of the “continue sleeve increase: all sizes” section. I am at the top of page 5 in the pattern and there are references to the repeat * to ** and * to ***. Can you help clarify the sequence of knit increases and purl increases? The ** and *** sections are not sequential, meaning ** doesn’t follow ***. Does that make sense? Carolyn
Hi Carolyn,
Thanks for reaching out! For this section, on the first repeat from * to **, you will work everything between the single and the double asterisk, ignoring the triple asterisk in the middle of the instructions. The next line has you repeat from * to ***, so you will go back to the single asterisk again, but stop when you reach the triple asterisk this time and move on to the next set of instructions.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I just finished this beautiful project and I am once again so impressed by your patterns. I followed your suggestions for sizing and the result is spot on! My only issue was the length of the sleeves. My fault for not adjusting, but the length seemed right until I washed and blocked the sweater. The sleeves grew about 3 inches! I am happily wearing my Peaks Pullover with the sleeves rolled once and pushed up — good look by the way! The Lilac Quartz is absolutely beautiful and I am in love!!
I’ve been working on the gauges. Have dropped down to a 4 needle…..on both gauges I’m fine now with width but come to 4 & 1/2 inches on length with CASMERE MERINO BLOOM yarn……any
Suggestions. Is anyone else having this gauge problem?
Hi Mollie,
Thanks for reaching out! Most of the time, stitch gauge is more important than row gauge – although it’s ideal to get both stitch and row gauge correct, if you must, I would recommend going with the needle size that gives you the correct stitch gauge, even if your row gauge is a little off. Since both the body and sleeves are knit to a measurement, rather than for a specific number of rows, your sweater should still turn out the correct length. I would also recommend double checking your gauge in the actual sweater once you have a few inches done, just to be on the safe side!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Beautiful pattern! I am working on it right now , and it already looks great! My question is – if I hide all yarn connections , is it possible to wear both sides, from inside out too? How does the seams and raglan look from the inside on a finished garment?
Thanks!
Hi Maria,
Thanks for writing in! Although you could certainly try the finished sweater on inside out to see how it looks, usually raglan decreases like this don’t look quite as tidy on the inside. Otherwise I don’t se a problem with it, so please let us know how it goes!
Best,
Julianna
Hello again. I am now shaping the neckline and I am confused by the eight short rows. I see from previous questions that the short rows are for the back of the sweater to make the collar stand up a bit taller in the back. I have two questions:
when I begin that section, am I starting from the front working my way toward the back, or am I starting from the back and working my toward the front? And at this point, I have 5 markers: 4 that separate the right and left sleeves from the front and the back, and I still have my center back marker. I am assuming I don’t count that one in this section. Correct? And any further helpful hints would be great during these last 8 rows before the final collar rows.
Hi Carolyn,
I hope I can clarify this section for you! Yes, you are correct that you should have 5 markers in your work at this point, and you will be starting the first short row at the beginning of the round, which is also the center back. You will then knit around to the front of the sweater, past the sleeve stitches, to work the first wrap & turn. The center back marker is still accounted for in the short rows, so do include it when you are following the pattern! As with most short row patterns, I often find it is easier to knit them than to read through them, so I would recommend just following the pattern carefully and going for it!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello! I am in the “Expand Rib Pattern” section of the pattern, and I’m confused as to how this should work out to a 2×2 rib pattern if I am knitting p1, K2, p1, sm, p1 (which results in p2). Won’t that be 1×2 x2x1 rib? I’m quite confused and going to hold for now on the 9th row, so as not to mess it up…Thanks for your help!
Hi Amy,
Thank you for reaching out with this question! It sounds like you’re doing everything just right! The edges of the ribbing, which create the ‘peak’ of knit stitches in the center of the sweater, will begin and end with a p1. You’ll increase the ribbing again at Row 13, but will always have a p1 between your sections of solid knit and ribbing. I encourage you to push ahead- you’ll see it all come together very shortly!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
I love this pattern but one question! When finishing the body up to the arms, the pattern states to knit 10 stitches (for my size) and then put the previous 20 stitches on a stitch holder and continue on. But then the working yarn is on the stitch holder! Are we supposed to move back a stitch and then put 20 on the holder? Then it won’t be even around the side but obviously not a big deal. What’s the pattens intention? Thanks, Paula
Hi Paula!
That’s a great question! The direction here has you work in pattern to the side seam marker, remove marker, p1 [k2, p2] 2 times, then k1. Then you will place these 10 stitches and the previous 10 (20 total from the right needle) onto a holder. This ends up being 10 stitches before and after the side marker you removed. Your working yarn should be coming from the last stitch worked, and ready to work in pattern to the other side seam and repeat. After you knit the arms and are ready to attach, another 20 stitches from each arm will be put on a holder, lined up with the 20 on hold from the body, and then the arms will be joined and you will decrease for the yoke. After the yoke is complete, the 20 stitches from the body, and the arms will be grafted together in a variation of the kitchener stitch. I hope this helps explain it! Please reach out if you need any more help!
Best
Jessica
Hi Jessica. After knitting those 10 stitches, the working yarn is put ON the stitch holder! In guessing that I have to knit an 11th stitch before putting the stitches in the holder! True? Paula
Hi Paula,
It is correct that the working yarn will be attached to the last stitch on the stitch holder, as it is the last stitch that you knitted. As long as the yarn is coming off of the last stitch, right next to the next stitch you are about to knit, you have placed the stitches on hold correctly and can go ahead and keep knitting – no need to knit any extra stitches! The working yarn will pull over to the next stitch, minimizing the gaps at the underarm.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thanks!
I am still working on my Peaks Sweater and I love it! I have a question about the back short rows and the markers (and I have read the above answers already!). On short row 1, I assume “sm” 2 times are the 2 markers around the left sleeve? Then when I am on Short row 2, am I going past both markers on the right sleeve? So the sleeves are part of the short rows? thanks, Paula
Hi Paula,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, it sounds like you’ve got it! The first two wrap and turns will be just past the sleeves, in the front portion of the sweater. After that the wrap and turns will be worked before you reach the previous ones, so they will be in the sleeves themselves. This all serves to raise the back neckline slightly to keep the sweater from riding up at the front neck!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I’ve just completed the sleeve rib pattern expansion on pg 7 (38 3/4), but only have 68 stitches. According to the pattern I am suppose to start with 56 and increase 2stitches 6x. Which means I have 68, not the 70 as the pattern states or the 72 that would make sense for a full 2×2 rib pattern. What have I done wrong?
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for writing in! It seems like you may have missed a few of the increases in. that section leaving you a little short! I would recommend writing out all the instructions for that section and and crossing them out as you go to keep track of each increase!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I plan to start your Peaks jumper and am very excited about it. I wonder if you feel Linen Quill worsted or Worsted twist yarns would be a good substitute?
many thanks Lorraine
Hi Lorraine,
Thanks for reaching out! I actually wouldn’t recommend either of those yarns unless you are looking to re-gauge the pattern since they are worsted weight yarns and the pattern is written for a light worsted/dk weight! If you don’t want to use Cashmere Merino Bloom like we did in this pattern I would instead recommend Flax Down, Understory, Good Wool or even our newest addition Simply Yak!
All the best,
Gianna
I’m really confused about the sleeve increase sections. The M1P increases— that section is leaving me with a bunch of pearl stitches on either side of the end round marker and no the ribbing. Am I supposed to continue in the 2×2 even tho it isn’t written as such? Thereby changing the P to knit to create the rib. Why is the M1P indicated and not the m1L or R as earlier
Hi Zoe,
Thanks for reaching out! In the sleeve section whenever we state “work in established pattern” it means to work in the 2×2 rib stitch, so you should not have a row of all purls! It says M1P because that is a different technique than a M1l or M1R. You can find instructions for how this increase works in the Special Instructions section.
I hope this clarifies things for you, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi Gianna
I tried again and still have 4 purls across at the point in the direction where it indicates
P2 at beginning of round, knit pattern then P2 for 4
Rows. This step is really messing me up! Help!
Hi Zoe,
Thanks for writing in again! I looked back at the pattern again to double check that is correct, and it is totally correct! If the round begins and ends with 2 purls, there will be 4 purls in a row, and this is totally normal at certain points when decreasing or increasing in ribbing.
I would just keep working the pattern and it should all fall into place!
All the best,
Gianna
Hello, my comment follows on from Zoe, I too have 4 purl stitches in a row. I am doing the 38 1/4 size. If I repeat the 8 rows with another purl increase as directed I would then have 6 purls in a row which can’t be right! help. Lorraine
Hi Lorraine,
Thanks for reaching out! For the Size 38 1/4 you will be working both purl increases and knit increases (see knit increase round) this will maintain the established rib pattern! And keep in mind, having 4 purl stitches together is totally normal at certain points when decreasing or increasing in ribbing (in any pattern). I would just keep working the pattern as written and it will all fall into place!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi! Do you have any suggestions to add bell sleeves to this pattern? I would like to cast on more stitches at the wrist and then decrease to the pattern size at the elbow, but I am not a very experienced knitter and I don’t know how to make such decreases.
Thank you! All the best
Caterina
Hi Caterina,
Thanks for reaching out! Thats a fun idea! It may take a bit of trial and error since we don’t have written instruction for this modification. You could cast on a larger amount of stitches, work for several rounds until you reach your desired length. You will then need to work several decreases to get down to the correct number of stitches needed for the size you are making!
Please let us know how this turns out and if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’m very interested in knitting a sweater and this pattern looks fairly easy…this will be my first sweater. I do knit left handed…moving my yarn from left to right. How will this impact the pattern? Anything I need to switch or turn around?
Thank you,
Hi Dee,
Thanks for reaching out! This pattern is completely symmetrical, so I don’t think you’ll run into anything that wouldn’t work when knitting left-handed. I think it would be a great pattern for a first sweater!
All the best,
Lili
I just finished the sweater (size 463/4) It turned out lovely. Do you recommend I block it? I’m afraid to in case it makes it bigger…
To block, could I spray it then lay it flat to dry or should I soak it, laying it flat to dry. What is the advantage of blocking it?
Hi Mary-Lou,
That’s so good to hear! There are a few reasons that you may want to block your sweater. First, many knitters find that blocking evens out their stitches and improves the drape of the fabric. Another reason is to achieve the correct gauge. If your gauge is a bit off, but you still want to get the intended dimensions, you can use blocking to guide your finished sweater to the correct size. I think that either blocking method will work very well, but soaking it does increase the risk of stretching the fabric, since that might happen when the sweater is transferred from the water to wherever you’re letting it dry. To decrease this risk when soaking the sweater, I’d recommend draining the basin of water before removing the sweater, and also rolling it up in a towel to gently push out the excess water before laying it flat to dry.
All the best,
Lili
Giving up on this sweater. The body knitted up quickly and easily. Unfortunately, I can’t say the same for the first sleeve, on which I feel like I’ve wasted way too much time. I get that sometimes a knitter has to “trust the pattern” but that hasn’t held true this time. I’m disappointed as I love this sweater and had looked forward to knitting it. More photos, front and back probably would have made a difference. I don’t think I’ll be picking this one up again.
Hi Beth,
I’m so sorry to hear that you’ve had a disappointing experience with this sweater! I can completely understand putting the project aside, but I want to let you know that we’re here to answer any questions you have if you decide to pick it back up again. We’d also be happy to recommend some other patterns you might enjoy making!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I finished my Peaks sweater and its lovely. I decided to do a regular neckline of about an inch folded over rather than the standing neck. My question is this, I notice that there is a horizontal “bulge” and doesn’t lie flat beneath the front neckline across the chest. It fits me across the chest and I am curious if this is something I can fix. I can’t tell where the problem originates from. Many thanks Lorraine
Hi Lorraine,
I’m so sorry to hear that your sweater doesn’t fit quite right! Have you tried blocking it yet? Oftentimes blocking will greatly improve the drape of a sweater.
You can also send a photo of your project to us at [email protected], and we can take a closer look!
All the best,
Lili
I love this pattern! I see that “Note” is a similar gauge—would that yarn work with this pattern? The person I’m thinking of is an alpaca fan and likes a little halo but not a lot of pills
Hi Kim,
Note would be a wonderful choice for this pattern! It’s also a DK weight yarn, just like the original yarn this pattern was designed in, but I’d still recommend swatching beforehand since you may need to size your needles up or down in order to achieve the correct gauge.
All the best,
Lili