Foxglove Vest
As if overnight, there are more May flowers in New York City than I could possibly count, and among them is the beautiful Foxglove. Its sweeping lines and delicate bloom inspired this simple stockinette stitch vest.
I’m especially excited by the intuitive way I constructed this Foxglove Vest. It just seemed to blossom in my hands! To make it, you work in one piece from the bottom up. Along the way you use short rows to shape a subtle curved hem; you graft the shawl collar stitches together at the back neck; and you tack the right front over the left front to create a pullover with the look of a casual cardigan. Thoughtfully placed neckline and armhole decreases give the finished vest a polished look.
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Purl Soho’s single ply Flax Down highlights the structure of this garment, and its sumptuous alpaca, wool, and linen blend lends a gentle drape. Flax Down comes in a range of colors from soft Foxglove purples through shades of gray (and more!). I chose Lavender Opal, a new addition to our palette and a beautiful ode to spring flowers! -Laura
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoFoxgloveVest, and #PurlSohoFlaxDown. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) skeins of Purl Soho’s Flax Down, 43% baby alpaca, 43% extra fine merino, 15% linen. Each skein is 219 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 525 (595, 680, 770, 860) yards required. We used Lavender Opal.
- US 7 (4.5mm), 32-inch circular needles
- US 7, 16-inch circular needles
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- 1 stitch marker
Gauge
21 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
32 (36, 39 ½, 43 ½, 47)
- Finished Chest Circumference: 32 (36, 39 ½, 43 ½, 47) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge of Back: 20 (20 ¾, 21 ¾, 23, 24) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge (measured at side): 11 ¾ (12, 12 ½, 13 ¼, 13 ¾) inches
EASE: This garment is designed with a 2- to 4-inch ease around the chest.
SAMPLE: The sample pictured here is size 36 inches modeled with 3 inches of ease.
Notes
Wrp-t (wrap and turn):
- On the right side: Keeping the yarn in back, slip the next stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. Bring the yarn to the front. Return the slipped stitch to the left needle. Bring the yarn to the back. Turn the work so the wrong side is facing you.
- On the wrong side: Keeping the yarn in front, slip the next stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. Bring the yarn to the back. Return the slipped stitch to the left needle. Bring the yarn to the front. Turn the work so the right side is facing you.
Slip:
- On right side rows, slip stitches knitwise with yarn in back.
- On wrong side rows, slip stitches purlwise with yarn in front.
Pattern
Body
Cast 182 (202, 222, 242, 262) stitches onto the longer circular needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Do not join; work back and forth in rows.
Shape Front Right Bottom Edge
NOTE: For this portion of the pattern, you will be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work partway through each row rather than continuing to the end of the row. For extra help, see both the Notes section and our Short Rows Tutorial.
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): [Slip 1 knitwise (see Notes)] 2 times, k15 (20, 17, 22, 19), wrap and turn (wrp-t; see Notes).
Row 3: Purl to end of row.
Row 4: [Slip 1 knitwise] 2 times, knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k3 (3, 4, 4, 5), wrp-t.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 seven more times.
Repeat Row 3 one more time.
Next Row (right side): [Slip 1 knitwise] 2 times, knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit to end of row.
Shape Front Left Bottom Edge
NOTE: You will continue to work in short rows for this portion of the pattern.
Row 1 (wrong side): [Slip 1 purlwise] 2 times, p15 (20, 17, 22, 19), wrp-t.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to end of row.
Row 3: [Slip 1 purlwise] 2 times, purl to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, p3 (3, 4, 4, 5), wrp-t.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 seven more times.
Repeat Row 2 one more time.
Next Row (wrong side): [Slip 1 purlwise] 2 times, purl to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, purl to end of row.
Work Body Evenly
Continue in stockinette stitch with the knit-in I-cord edge as follows:
Row 1 (right side): [Slip 1 knitwise] 2 times, knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): [Slip 1 purlwise] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 11 ¾ (12, 12 ½, 13 ¼, 13 ¾) inches from cast-on edge (measured at center back), ending with a wrong side row.
Separate Fronts + Back
Row 1 (right side): [Slip 1 knitwise] 2 times, k42 (47, 51, 55, 59), place previous 44 (49, 53, 57, 61) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn for Right Front; bind off the next 10 (10, 12, 14, 16) stitches for Right Underarm; k73 (83, 91, 99, 107), place previous 74 (84, 92, 100, 108) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn for Back; bind off the next 10 (10, 12, 14, 16) stitches for Left Underarm, knit to end of row. [44 (49, 53, 57, 61) stitches remain for Left Front]
Left Front
Shape Armhole
NOTE: You may find it more comfortable to work the Left Front and Right Front on the shorter circular needles.
Next Row (wrong side): [Slip 1 purlwise] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Decrease Row 1 (right side): K4, ssk, knit to end of row. [1 stitch decreased]
Decrease Row 2: [Slip 1 purlwise] 2 times, purl to last 6 stitches, p2tog tbl, p4. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Decrease Rows 1 and 2 zero (one, one, one, two) more times. [42 (45, 49, 53, 55) stitches remain]
Repeat Decrease Row 1. [41 (44, 48, 52, 54) stitches remain]
Next Row (wrong side): [Slip 1 purlwise] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Repeat Decrease Row 1 every right side row 1 (1, 2, 4, 4) more time(s), ending with a right side row. [40 (43, 46, 48, 50) stitches remain]
Shape Neckline
Next Row (wrong side): [Slip 1 purlwise] 2 times, p15, place marker, purl to end of row.
Decrease Row 1 (right side): Knit to 2 stitches before marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit to end of row. [1 stitch decreased]
Row 2: [Slip 1 purlwise] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Row 3: Knit to end of row.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
Repeat Rows 1-4 seven (eight, nine, nine, ten) more times. [32 (34, 36, 38, 39) stitches remain]
Work Evenly
Row 1 (right side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): [Slip 1 purlwise] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 7 ½ (8, 8 ½, 9, 9 ½) inches from the Underarm, ending with a wrong side row.
Next Row (right side): Knit to 1 stitch before marker, place previous 14 (16, 18, 20, 21) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn for Front Left Shoulder, k1, remove marker, knit to end of row. [18 stitches remain]
Continue Evenly for Left Collar
Row 1 (wrong side): [Slip 1 purlwise] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 3 ½ (3 ¾, 4, 4, 4 ¼) inches from on-hold Left Shoulder stitches, ending with a wrong side row.
Cut yarn, leaving a 20-inch tail.
Place Left Collar stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn and set aside.
Right Front
Shape Armhole
Slip 44 (49, 53, 57, 61) on-hold Right Front stitches onto circular needles. Join yarn to wrong side and…
Next Row (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Decrease Row 1 (right side): [Slip 1 knitwise] 2 times, knit to last 6 stitches, k2tog, k4. [1 stitch decreased]
Decrease Row 2: P4, p2tog, purl to end of row. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Decrease Rows 1 and 2 zero (one, one, one, two) more times. [42 (45, 49, 53, 55) stitches remain]
Repeat Decrease Row 1. [41 (44, 48, 52, 54) stitches remain]
Next Row (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Repeat Decrease Row 1 every right side row 1 (1, 2, 4, 4) more time(s), ending with a right side row. [40 (43, 46, 48, 50) stitches remain]
Shape Neckline
Next Row (wrong side): P23 (26, 29, 31, 33), place marker, purl to end of row.
Decrease Row 1 (right side): [Slip 1 knitwise] 2 times, knit to marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to end of row. [1 stitch decreased]
Row 2: Purl to end of row.
Row 3: [Slip 1 knitwise] 2 times, knit to end of row.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
Repeat Rows 1-4 seven (eight, nine, nine, ten) more times. [32 (34, 36, 38, 39) stitches remain]
Work Evenly
Row 1 (right side): [Slip 1 knitwise] 2 times, knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 7 ½ (8, 8 ½, 9, 9 ½) inches from the Underarm, ending with a right side row.
Next Row (wrong side): Purl to 1 stitch before marker, place previous 14 (16, 18, 20, 21) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn for Front Right Shoulder, p1, remove marker, purl to end of row. [18 stitches remain]
Continue Evenly for Right Collar
Row 1 (right side): [Slip 1 knitwise] 2 times, knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 3 ½ (3 ¾, 4, 4, 4 ¼) inches from on-hold Right
Shoulder stitches, ending with a right side row.
Cut yarn.
Collar
Graft Left + Right Collar Stitches
Slip the Left Collar stitches onto the circular needles (see photo, above). Then, with the right side facing you, use the left-hand end of the needles to slip the Right Collar stitches onto the needles. Slide each set of stitches to their respective ends of the needles, and hold the two needles parallel with the wrong sides of the fabric together. Thread the long tail onto a tapestry needle and use Kitchener Stitch to graft the Left and Right Collar stitches together.
Shoulders
Pick Up + Set Aside
With the right side facing, slip the 14 (16, 18, 20, 21) 16 on-hold Front Left Shoulder stitches onto the shorter circular needles. Join yarn and with left-end of needles, pick up 38 (40, 42, 42, 44) Back Neck stitches along the bottom edge of the Collar (pick up approximately at 3 out of every 4 rows). Cut yarn. Lastly, slip the 14 (16, 18, 20, 21) Front Right Shoulder stitches onto the left-end of the needles. Set this aside while you finish the Back. [66 (72, 78, 82, 86) stitches]
Back
Slip the 74 (84, 92, 100, 108) on-hold Back stitches onto longer circular needles. Join yarn to wrong side and…
Next Row (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Decrease Row 1 (right side): K4, ssk, knit to last 6 stitches, k2tog, k4. [2 stitches decreased]
Decrease Row 2: P4, p2tog, purl to last 6 stitches, p2tog tbl, p4. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Decrease Rows 1 and 2 zero (one, one, one, two) more times. [70 (76, 84, 92, 96) stitches remain]
Repeat Decrease Row 1. [68 (74, 82, 90, 94) stitches remain]
Next Row (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Repeat Decrease Row 1 every right side row 1 (1, 2, 4, 4) more time(s) [66 (72, 78, 82, 86) stitches remain]
Work Evenly
Work evenly in stockinette stitch…
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 7 ¼ (7 ¾, 8 ¼, 8 ¾, 9 ¼) inches from the Underarms, ending with a right side row.
Shape Shoulders
NOTE: For this portion of the pattern, you will once again be working back and forth in short rows.
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to last 4 (5, 6, 7, 7) stitches, wrp-t.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to last 4 (5, 6, 7, 7) stitches, wrp-t.
Row 3: Purl to last 8 (10, 11, 13, 14) stitches, wrp-t.
Row 4: Knit to last 8 (10, 11, 13, 14) stitches, wrp-t.
Row 5: Purl to last 13 (15, 17, 19, 20) stitches, wrp-t.
Row 6: Knit to last 13 (15, 17, 19, 20) stitches, wrp-t.
Row 7: Purl to end of row, working wrapped stitches with their wraps as you come to them.
Row 8: Knit to end of row, working wrapped stitches with their wraps as you come to them.
Row 9: Purl to end of row.
Armhole measures approximately 7 ½ (8, 8 ½, 9, 9 ½) inches at side edge.
Cut yarn, leaving a 48-inch tail for joining.
Finish
Graft Back + Front Shoulders: Option 1
Turn work so that Back faces you and yarn for grafting is on the right-hand side, ready to work from right to left. With tail threaded onto a tapestry needle, use Kitchener Stitch to graft the Back stitches to the Front Shoulder and Back Neck stitches.
Graft Back + Front Shoulders: Option 2
If you aren’t up for working Kitchener Stitch across 66 (72, 78, 82, 86) stitches, you can use the 3-Needle Bind Off method instead.
First, turn the piece inside out and orient your work with the right sides of the fabric facing one another and the needles parallel.
Slide both sets of stitches to the right-hand end of the needles. Then, using the left-hand end of the longer needles as the working needle and the 48-inch tail as the working yarn, work 3-needle bind off, purlwise…
Next Row: P2tog (1 stitch from back needle together with 1 stitch from front needle) as follows: Insert the needle purlwise through the first stitch on the back needle, then purlwise through the first stitch on the front needle, and then purl these 2 stitches together, *p2tog (1 stitch from back needle together with 1 stitch from front needle), slip first stitch on right needle over stitch just worked and off the needle (binding off 1 stitch), repeat from * to end of row. [1 stitch remains on right needle.]
Pull tail through last stitch.
Edge the Armholes
NOTE: Do the following for each Armhole.
With the right side facing you, join yarn at center of Underarm and use the shorter circular needles to pick up stitches around the Armhole, binding off as you go. Here’s how…
Pick up 1 stitch, *pick up 1 stitch, slip first stitch on right needle over stitch just picked up (binding off 1 stitch), repeat from * to end of round. [1 stitch remains on right needle]
Cut yarn and pull tail through last stitch.
Tip: Beginning at the center of the Underarm stitches, pick up 1 stitch for each Underarm stitch; then working up the Armhole to the Shoulder, pick up 1 stitch in 3 of every 4 rows; continue in this fashion down the other side of the Armhole; and then pick up 1 stitch for each Underarm stitch back to where you started.
Seam the Fronts
NOTE: I used exaggeratedly loose stitching and a contrast yarn for demonstration purposes.
The vertical seaming technique I use here isn’t too different from Mattress Stitch, except that rather than placing the two pieces of fabric side-by-side, you overlap them. And rather than drawing the needle under ladders on the left side, you draw them over. You can check out our Mattress Stitch Tutorial if you think it may help, or just continue reading…
Thread a length of yarn onto a tapestry needle and overlap the Right Front over the Left Front.
Begin by bringing the threaded tapestry needle through the Left Front from back to front, 5 knit columns over from the I-cord edge and at the cast-on edge.
Draw the needle through the Right Front, from back to front, 5 knit columns over from the I-cord edge and at the cast-on edge. Bring the needle back through the fabric 2 stitches above the previous exit point.
Draw the needle under 2 ladders on the Left Front (2 stitches above the previous exit point) and then back through the Right Front again (2 stitches above the previous exit point)…
Continue working back and forth. Every 5 or so stitches, gently tug on the working yarn, drawing the Fronts together.
Seam the Fronts until you reach where the Neckline shaping begins.
Weave + Block
Weave in the ends and block as desired.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I would really appreciate a short, printable version of your pattern. Sixteen pages is a lot to print and keep. Thanks.
Hi Ann,
Thanks for writing in! You can print this without images by checking the “remove images” box at the top of the print pop-up. I hope this helps!
Best,
Adam
I saved this pattern and made the photos smaller (they can be enlarged if needed again to look at). Plus then I can just print the page that I need at that time.
Thanks for sharing such a lovely pattern, I’d like to add the sleeves to this pattern, how would you do it? Thanks for your advise!
Angie
You can find directions for adding sleeves at knitting paradise.com.
pretty vest but I would like it more if the front was two parts
like a cardigan without sleeves. Do you have instructions for that. Thank you.
Hello Irene,
Thanks for writing in! We designed the vest to not have buttons, but you can certainly add buttonholes evenly down the front. I think that would look nice too!
Best,
Adam
This is a lovely pattern, elegant in its simplicity. Lovely yarn as well.
Thanks for sharing. I want to try making this and was looking at the FlaxDown. I did not find the yardage per skein. What is the yardage on the yarn per skein? Thanks.
Hi!
Thanks for writing in! Our Flaxdown has roughly 219 yards per 100 gram skein.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Plus size ladies like nice things too! Any chance of plus sizes being added to this pattern?
Hello S,
Thanks for writing us! Unfortunately our free patterns only offer a limited size range. However, our for-purchase patterns offer a very wide range of sizes. The Cardigan Coat and Vest is a nice option that provides measurements up to a 50 1/4″ chest circumference. Thanks again for writing in!
Best,
Adam
This is my style, I love it. I will have to see if someone will knit it for me. I am making a scarf out of your Flax Down….slowly getting there….
thank you a million times for your free patterns….you are so generous with your beautiful talent(s). jo
hello,
can you write in french your pattern please?
thank you very much.
Hi Rose,
Thank you for writing us. Unfortunately we do not have anyone on staff who can translate our patterns into a foreign language with our knowing they are correct and well written. Please see the link below for a good translation of english knitting terms.
http://www.tricotin.com/dico3.htm
Best,
Adam
Why don’t you have a link available to download the pattern in a PDF? This would be so much easier to print instead of having to mess around with settings just to reduce the number of pages you print.
I’m tech savvy & I can do it but that doesn’t negate the lack of consideration for those just beginning with computers.
It’s an easy enough process and you can download a PDF printer for free.
Hello Kim,
Thank you for pointing that out! We are always listening to our customers and will keep your comment in mind as we continue to build and maintain this new website. I hope you enjoy the pattern!
Best,
Adam
I agree. Please consider making your patterns available as PDFs. It would make our lives a lot easier. And thank you so much for giving us access to these lovely patterns and sorry to sound picky.
Hi Anne,
If you go under “print” you have the option to download this pattern as a PDF. Best of luck!
-Adam
Hi Kim,
We actually do have a link to download a PDF. If you click PRINT to the right of the pattern, it will open a pop-up with a printable version of the pattern. At the top of the pop-up is a button that says PDF. Clicking that will produce a PDF for you to download. Thanks! Hope this helps!
Kindly,
Anna
purlsoho.com
love this pattern and the yarn too! could you recommend a little less expensive yarn?
Hello Elinore,
Thanks for writing us! I suggest that you look at Cascade 220 as a substitute for the Flax Down. It isn’t as soft or textural, but it is a sturdy yarn that also comes in heathers. I happen to really like it!
Best,
Adam
Hi, This is a lovely pattern. I am swatching and I am finding it difficult to get a flat cast on, it rolls quite a lot. Do you have any tips on how to stop the rolling at the hem? I have tried a few different cast ons and different needles, but it still rolls.
Thanks
Hi Vicki,
So glad you like the pattern! We used a long tail cast on for this vest and blocked it after knitting. You can wet block or steam block. An i-cord cast on or a ribbed edge will stop the rolling, but this would also change the look of the garment edge. I suggest you block the sweater when it’s finished. A little rolling is not necessarily a bad thing!
Best,
Adam
Twice I have printed this pattern, and each time part of the text of instructions is missing for each section. Has anyone else reported this problem?
Hi Patty,
So sorry about this! The problem might be that you are removing the images before printing. This will take away some .jpeg files that have some information regarding the pattern. If not, then I would try downloading this pattern as a PDF and then printing from there. I hope this helps!
-Adam
Hi there,
I noticed a small error at the beginning. Where the front right bottom edge short rows are, the last row should be:
sl 1 kw twice then knit to end of row,
assuming the i-cord edge continues up the front?
Thanks again 🙂
Hi Vicki,
Thanks for catching this! So sorry about the typo. We fixed the pattern and all should be good!
Best,
Adam
I am finished with my vest in a lovely Flax Down blue, but for the underarms and stitching up the front. For some reason, I cannot for the life of me figure out how to pick up and bind off those pesky underarm stitches! Any tips or tricks? Help!
Hi there!
So glad to hear that you are making such quick progress with our new pattern! We have a tutorial on picking up stitches and you can click here to see it! I hope it’s helpful. If you have any more questions, feel free to write back!
Best,
Adam
I think I may have found an error. I am doing the size that requires casting on 222 stitches. After knitting 12 1/2 inches, I’m ready to separate the Fronts + Back. For the back it says to k91 stitches but then it says to place the previous 92 stitches on stitch holder. Shouldn’t it say to k92 stitches? Thanks so much for clarification. Love the pattern.
Hi Joan!
Thank you for your comment! The pattern is actually correct because you are counting the last bind off stitch that remains on the right-hand needle as a stitch. I hope this makes sense! Please feel free to write us any time if you have a question!
Best,
Adam
Do you have a general explanation or tutorial for “ease”? I find the explanation very confusing:
“EASE: This garment is designed with a 2- to 4-inch ease around the chest.
SAMPLE: The sample pictured here is size 36 inches modeled with 3 inches of ease.”
Does that mean the person’s actual bust measures 36″ and the garment 39″? Or maybe the other way around – Bust is 33″ and garment adds 3″ of ease to be finished size of 36″ I can’t cast on until this question is clarified … so thank you!
Hi Pat,
Thanks for writing in to us. You should always look at the finished measurement in the pattern specs when choosing a size. The size you should choose is your chest measurement plus the intended ease. For example, if you have a 34″ bust and the intended ease is 2″, then you should do the 36″ size. This is how ease works! Not so bad. Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
Gerne hätte ich eine Anleitung in Deutsch. Wer kann mir helfen?
Hi there,
Thank you for writing in! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources to translate our patterns but will strongly consider it in the future!
Best,
Adam
Is the 2nd row numbers in correct order for the numbers relating to the sizes? I would have thought that they would go larger to smaller numbers. Ex: ( 17, 19, 20, 22). Row 2 (right side): [Slip 1 knitwise (see Notes)] 2 times, k15 (20, 17, 22, 19), wrap and turn Thank you for the clarification. I haven’t knitted in quite a while and this is my first clothing item.
Hi Karen,
Thanks for the question. A larger size doesn’t always mean that the numbers increase. Since this has to do with the short rows, if you continue reading the pattern, you’ll see that you knit more stitches beyond the wrap and turn for the larger sizes. This insures that you’ll achieve the same shape no matter what the size. I hope this clears things up!
-Adam
Thank you for your reply. I hadn’t read far enough to see that. This is very helpful. Thanks, now I can get going.
Hallo, alles wunderschön, ist die Anleitung auch in Deutsch erhältlich??
Liebe Grüße
Hans
Hi Hans,
Thanks for writing in and for the kind words! Our patterns are currently, only available in English.
Best,
Cassy
Hi love the pattern, but wasn’t until i finished it that i realized it had to be sewn up in the front. Can you suggest a way of finishing it off down the front and around the bottom and up the other front? I would like to leave it as an open vest.
Could you please respond to me at my email address?
Thanks
Ann
Hi Ann,
Thanks for the question. Sewing the front is optional and is done as the last step in finishing the vest. This means that you can decide to leave it open or not. Hope this helps!
-Adam
I have my yarn, cast on and purled row 1 and now have two questions that have halted any progress:
1. I have read your directions for short row and it states to slip stitch purlwise. Yet directions for best state on right side, slip stitch knit wise? Which is correct?
2. What does row 2 directions mean to “slip 1 knitwise (see Notes)
2 times? Slip 2 stitches?
I’ve crochet and knit a couple of your patterns and always love the results, and am sure I will feel the same about the vest. But I guess I’m too new at this and just can’t get past row 1! Thank you
Hi Ms McCollow,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! I hope that I can help!
1. For the purposes of this pattern, you will be slipping purlwise on the right and wrong side.
2. When the pattern says to “slip 1 knitwise 2 times”, you will slip 1 stitch knitwise and then slip a second stitch knitwise.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
What a beautiful vest. This is on my list to knit next. Thank you!
I am enchanted by this design! Can you recommend a non-animal fiber yarn to substitute for Flax Down? Many thanks.
Hi Carolena,
Thank you for writing in! We are happy to offer alternatives! I think that best match would be our Cotton Pure. It is a bit thinner than the Flax Down that we used here but can knit at the same gauge. I would be sure to knit a gauge swatch to be sure that you like the fabric at the required gauge for this lovely vest!
Best,
Cassy
Hello and thank you for the beautiful pattern. It’s been a pleasure to work with. I’m at the homestretch but need some help please: could you please clarify your tip on picking up and binding off the stitches at the armhole? at which point exactly should I start picking up 1 in 3? where does the armhole to the Shoulder start vs the centre of the underarm?
Thank you for your guiding light!
Hello Viet,
Thank you for reaching out and congratulations on being almost done! The distribution of picking up stitches is not an exact science so as long as you pick up around the center of the underarm stitches it will work out. For a more in-depth description of this technique I recommend looking through out Tutorial.
I hope this helps and happy knitting,
Marilla
Lovely vest. I made it from a wool yarn Manos del Uruguay. I opted for a straight bottom edge with a 4 row knit one purl one rib. I especially liked that there were no side or shoulder seams. The Kitchener stitch directions were great as were all the instructions
What a wondrous pattern!! Thank you so much. I have made a pact with myself to knit something wearable in 2019. I learned to knit as a girl and created an eight inch square for a community quilt. Years later I knit a scarf. And years later, a baby blanket. Three projects in 60 years. Surely I can do better. I’m guessing that this vest may be too much of a leap for a newbie? Would it be considered rather advanced?
Hi Glenda,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for writing in! I would consider this vest to be an advanced beginner to intermediate project – it includes quite a bit of shaping in the form of increases and decreases as well as short rows and also requires picking up stitches and seaming to finish the sides. If you are up for a challenge we do have tutorials for all of these techniques on our Tutorials page! You may also want to consider our Sideways Garter Vest which is much more beginner friendly.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I wish to knit this beautiful vest but I’d rather do it in cotton. Would cascade Pima be ok quantity wise. Thank you for your time
Hi Christiane,
Thanks for writing in! Although Cascade Ultra Pima is a bit thinner than Flax Down, you might be able to get the correct gauge, but it’s hard to say for sure without knitting a gauge swatch. Flax Down is almost a worsted weight and is quite lofty, especially compared to a cotton, so you might be happier with a slightly heavier yarn.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Is the wrap and turn different from German short rows? Can German short row be used here and is there any adjustment needed?
Thanks!
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! Both Wrap and Turns and German Short Rows are methods of working short rows without leaving holes in your knitting, but you do have to change the pattern slightly to substitute German Short Rows in a pattern written for Wrap and Turns. You can find full instructions on how to make these changes in our German Short Row tutorial!
Warmly,
Julianna
Do you think Understory would be a nice option for this pattern?
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for writing in! I think Understory would be a beautiful yarn to use with this pattern! Flax Down and Understory are both light worsted/dk weight yarns so the gauge should be perfect but I do recommend working up a gauge swatch prior to starting the pattern just to insure that you are consistent with the pattern!
Please let us know how this works out, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thank you!
Hi , I have done long tail cast on for the first time with this pattern and wrap and turn, watching your tutorial.
However I just wanted to clarify before I go further as this is the 2nd time of trying with these fronts. For the shaping of the front right bottom edge- where it says repeat rows 3 and 4 , 7 times( there is no stitch and its wrap to work on the 7 times repeat of these rows is that correct?) then when this is completed and you are working the stitch and its wrap and knitting to the end of that row( before starting on the shaping of the left front bottom edge) – the piece worked looks rather bulbous/ bulky is this correct? I know it has to be blocked later, but I just want to be sure as I have unraveled my work several times already. Not familiar with this wrap and turn process . Thanks Sally
Hi Sally,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes that is correct, you will be repeating the rows 3 and 4 7 times, 3: purl the entire row, 4: [Slip 1 knitwise] 2 times, knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k3 (3, 4, 4, 5), wrp-t. But you shouldn’t be wrapping the final stitch of the row if that makes sense! Our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn tutorial is the best resource to use to see exactly how to wrap the stitches and turn your work and then will also show you how to work the wrap with the stitch in order for it to be clean and even! This shaping shouldn’t be causing a bulbous or bulky look at all! If this doesn’t help you can always send some photos of your work to our team at [email protected] and they can trouble shoot further from there!
All the best,
Gianna
Thanks Gianna, sorry for the delay but I finally worked out where I was going wrong- I just had a mental block . I will refer to your tutorials as they appear to get very positive reviews.
Thanks again Sally
Thank you for this great pattern. I made the vest in Flax Down, but would like to make one that is more drapey, polished, less organic and lofty- less ‘fisherman’. Can you please recommend a yarn other than all cotton? Thank you~
Hi Tracie,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend using our Cashmere Merino Bloom or Understory for a more polished vest! Both of these yarns are light worsted/dk weight yarns like Flax Down so they should work perfectly with this pattern! However, I would recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to ensure you are consistent with the gauge of the pattern!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Sorry, but I have a hard time following the instructions, being really lost under “Shape Armhole,” where it asks me to “Repeat Decrease Rows 1 and 2 zero (one, one, one, two) more times.” How can I repeat this pattern ZERO more times? Thanks for your help.
Hi Monika,
Thanks for reaching out, and that’s a great question! Whenever a pattern says to repeat something zero times for a certain size, then you will not need to repeat it at all, and you can move onto the next instruction. The reason that instructions like that are included is that some of the sizes in the pattern do need this portion to be repeated, just not the smallest size!
All the best,
Lili
I adore the Foxglove Vest pattern and would love to make myself one. What are my chances of getting it in a few larger sizes???
pleeaase?
Hi Marion,
Thank you for reaching out, and we’re so sorry that this pattern doesn’t have enough sizes! We are in the midst of expanding the size range of our garment patterns and are happy to report that many of them now fit chest sizes up to 62-64 inches. We are steadily working to make sure this is true of all our patterns, but it may take us a while to update the really old ones like the Foxglove Vest.
In the meantime though, I have some suggestions for how to modify the existing pattern! The first thing that comes to mind is using a thicker yarn and knitting at a larger gauge. This will allow you to create a vest that’s larger overall, without changing any of the pattern instructions! Furthermore, you could aggressively block your finished vest, which would enlarge the gauge and size even further. I hope this helps you get started knitting this pattern as soon as possible!
All the best,
Lili
I was recently given 4 skeins of Cashmere Merino Bloom as a gift and was wondering if that would be appropriate yarn to use with Foxglove Vest? Or can you recommend any of your other patterns (besides the ones that are listed specifically for that yarn?) Thanks in advance for your help.
Rachelle Linner
Hi Rachelle,
Thank you so much for reaching out! Cashmere Merino Bloom is an excellent choice for this project and will make for such a soft and cozy vest!
With any yarn substitutions, we also highly recommend doing a gauge swatch to make sure your gauge is consistent with the pattern. You might find that you need to adjust your needle size! Here’s our guide on swatching if you’d like more information (All About Gauge).
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
Hi, I am having trouble with the three needle bind off to graft shoulders and back together ie instructions P2 tog. Cannot for the life of me work it out and have watched your tutorial on 3 needle bind off but it doesn’t show P2 tog or I am getting confused.
Thanks
Hi Sally,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m happy to help! The “p2tog” in this pattern refers to purling one stitch from the front needle together with one stitch from the back needle. Our 3-Needle Bind-Off tutorial shows this done with a knit stitch (a k2tog), but it can absolutely be done purlwise as well!
All the best,
Lili