Color Dipped Hat
I know how these Color Dipped Hats were made, but even still, I like to imagine something wildly different. I think of them as capturing the tiny window in time when a soft white fabric is quickly dipped into a vat of pigment, and the color seeps through the outside but hasn’t yet coated the inside.
Using two colors of Purl Soho’s lovely Line Weight to knit up easy-as-pie Fisherman’s Rib, you’ll find that one side of the hat’s edge is almost saturated with color, while the other is just lightly striped. Such a surprising and beautiful effect from so little effort!
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
Wear it one way out or the other, cuffed and beany-ish or uncuffed and slouchy… The Color Dipped Hat is like four hats in one, each one a study in the marvel of knitting! -Laura
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoColorDippedHat, and #PurlSohoLineWeight. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Main Color (MC): 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Line Weight, 100% merino wool yarn. Each skein of this fingering weight yarn is 494 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 133 (148, 162, 250) yards required. We used the color Heirloom White.
- Contrast Color (CC): 1 skein of Line Weight; approximately 30 (50, 60, 80) yards required. We used the colors Pink Grapefruit, Super Pink, and Sea Salt.
- US 2 (3 mm), 16-inch circular needles (or 12-inch for Baby size only)
- A set of US 2 double pointed needles
- 4 stitch markers, including one unique
Gauge
24 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in Fisherman’s Rib
To make a Fisherman’s Rib swatch flat (not in the round), cast on an odd number of stitches and work the following…
Set-Up Row: *K1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 1: K1, *k1b (see Notes below), p1, rep from * to last two stitches, k1b, k1.
Row 2: K1, *p1, k1b, rep from * to last two stitches, p1, k1.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Sizes
Baby (Toddler/Kid, Teen/Adult Small, Adult Large)
- Finished Circumference: 14 ½ (17 ¼, 20, 22 ½) inches
- Finished Height: 8 (9, 11, 12) inches
SAMPLES: We knit the size Baby in Pink Grapefruit, Teen/Adult Small in Super Pink, and Adult Large in Sea Salt.
Notes
Working into the Stitch Below
k1b [knit one below]: Insert the tip of the right needle into the stitch below the next stitch from front to back, knit normally (wrapping the yarn around the needle and pulling it back through the stitch below) and let the stitch above fall from the left needle.
p1b [purl one below]: Insert the tip of the right needle into the stitch below the next stitch from back to front, purl normally (wrapping the yarn around the needle and pulling it back through the stitch below) and let the stitch above fall from the left needle.
For more information about these techniques, be sure to visit our Working into the Stitch Below Tutorial!
Decreases
Rsl dec [right slanting decrease]:
Slip one stitch knitwise with yarn in back, knit one, then…
- pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch and off the right needle…
- place the knit stitch you just worked onto the left needle, pass the following stitch over it and off the left needle…
- place the knit stitch back on the right needle. [2 stitches decreased]
Lsl dec [left slanting decrease]:
- Slip one stitch knitwise with yarn in back…
- knit the following two stitches together…
- pass the slipped stitch over the k2tog and off the right needle. [2 stitches decreased]
Pattern
Begin at Bottom Edge
With CC, cast 88 (104, 120, 136) stitches onto the circular needle. I used a Long Tail Tubular Cast On, because it’s nice and stretchy, but a basic Long Tail Cast On would also be beautiful (and less complicated)! If you use the Long Tail Tubular Cast On, don’t forget to work the two Foundation Rows before joining in the round (they are described both in our tutorial and below).
If You Did a Long Tail Tubular Cast On…
Foundation Row 1: *Knit 1 through the back loop, slip one with yarn in front, repeat from * to end of row.
Foundation Row 2: *Knit 1, slip 1 with yarn in front, repeat from * to end of row.
If you Did a Long Tail Cast on or Similar…
Foundation Row: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Work Body of Hat
Place unique marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Round 1: With CC, *k1b, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 2: With MC, *k1, p1b, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until piece measures 2 (2 1/4, 2 3/4, 3) inches from the cast-on edge, ending with Round 2.
Cut CC.
With MC…
Round 1: *K1b, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 2: *K1, p1b, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until piece measures 6 ¾ (7, 9 ¼, 9 ½) inches from cast-on edge.
Shape Crown
NOTE: Switch to double pointed needles when necessary.
Set-Up Round: [(K1b, p1) eleven (13, 15, 17) times, place marker] three times, continue in established pattern to end of round.
Round 1 (decrease): [K1, p1b, Lsl dec, *p1b, k1, repeat from * to five stitches before next marker, p1b, Rsl dec, p1b] four times. [16 stitches decreased]
Round 2: [K1b, p1, k1, *p1, k1b, repeat from * to three stitches before next marker, p1, k1, p1] four times.
Round 3: *K1, p1b, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 4 (decrease): [K1b, p1, Lsl dec, *p1, k1b, repeat from * to five stitches before next marker, p1, Rsl dec, p1] four times. [16 stitches decreased]
Round 5: *K1, p1b, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 6: *K1b, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1-6 one (1, 2, 2) more time(s). [24 (40, 24, 40) stitches]
For Sizes Toddler/Kid and Adult Large Only
Repeat Round 1 one more time. [24 stitches, both sizes]
Next Round: *K1b, p1, repeat from * to last two stitches, removing stitch markers as you get to them, then slip two stitches onto right needle, remove end-of-round marker, replace two slipped stitches onto left needle.
Final Decrease Round: [Slip 3 stitches together knitwise, k2tog, pass 3 slipped stitches over and off needle, p1b] four times. [8 stitches, both sizes]
For Sizes Baby and Teen/Adult Small Only
Next Round: *K1, p1b, repeat from * to last two stitches, removing stitch markers as you get to them, then slip two stitches onto right needle, remove end-of-round marker, replace two slipped stitches onto left needle.
Final Decrease Round: [Slip 3 stitches together knitwise, k2tog, pass 3 slipped stitches over and off needle, p1] four times. [8 stitches, both sizes]
Finish
Cut yarn and thread onto tapestry needle. Draw the needle through the remaining stitches and pull taut.
Weave in the ends and block as desired.
LEARN ABOUT LINE WEIGHT + ALL OUR BEAUTIFUL YARNS
Line Weight is a lovely choice for this project because it is sumptuously soft with a subtle luster. A lithe single ply of 100% merino wool, this fingering-weight yarn knits up into a smooth fabric that blooms beautifully when you hand wash it. Enjoy 494 yards of beautiful knitting with every 100-gram skein and choose from over 20 riveting colors!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our collection of (mostly free!) Line Weight patterns and cast on!
More Fingering-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of fingering-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fibers
- Shop merino wool yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
hello , I would like to place order to do the color dipped hat white and
darker pink also 3 heirloom white with the2 gray and needles for the project. Also pattern ? doing them for a new born and toddler
and adult. thank you just love your items.
Hello Debra!
We’re so glad that you like our pattern and yarns! The pattern is available for free on our blog at the link you entered your comment. I have forwarded your information to our customer service team and they will be contacting you soon to complete your order. Thanks for writing in!
Happy knitting! -Alyson
This is amazing and I can’t wait to knit it! Do you know roughly how much of the MC yarn it uses for an adult?
Hi Audrey.
For the Adult Large, you’ll need approximately 250 yards of the MC.
Thanks for writing in!
Laura
Thanks!
About how much of the MC is necessary for the Adult Small?
Hi Cecilia.
Thanks for writing in. The Adult Small requires approximately 165 yards of the MC.
Please let us know if you have any questions.
Thanks.
Laura.
Thank you for the lovely pattern! Would you mind telling us how much each hat weighs? I have less than a skein left and I’m wondering what sizes I’ll be able to make with the amount of yarn I have.
Hi Sarah.
You’re in luck, you can probably get any size with just less than a single skein. The Baby size in Pink Grapefruit weighs 33g, the Adult Small in Super Pink weighs 54g and the Adult Large in Sea Salt weighs 67g.
Please let us know if you have any questions.
Thanks for your interest in the pattern!
Laura
Stunning ,Beautiful color combination. Awesome design. Finishing high standard.
Would this hat work up looking masculine with different colors, for if example the main color is sea salt? Or would it still look more feminine? Thank you, Jeanne
Hi Jeanne.
Oh I this this pattern is quite versatile. I think it can definitely read as masculine with different colors, that’s why we included sizing for an Adult Large size head. I’ve been tempted to try combining Timeless Navy with Toaster Charcoal or Soft Black. Or Soft Black and Black Green. There are so many potential handsome options! Sea Salt would pair nicely with loads of colors!
I hope this helps!
Let us know if you have any questions.
Laura
Love these! They would make wonderful holiday gifts. Will the two skeins yield more than one hat? I am thinking women’s hats. Thank you!
Hi Ann.
Thanks for writing in. Yes! you can definitely get more than one hat from two skeins. An adult small hat requires a total of approximately 225 yards. If you’re willing to do different proportions with the colors, with two skeins, you should be able to squeak out 4 hats! Definitely 3!
Let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
This looks awesome! I’m nervous about switching between MC & CC. Is there a tutorial you could point me to?
Hi Laura B.
Are you neverous about switching between MC and CC within the same round or from round to round?
Luckily with this pattern you do not have to alternate colors within the same round. You work one round in the CC and then the next in the MC. For a tutorial on working stripes, in the round, visit: /create/2008/03/09/stripes-in-the-round/
Because you are working ever other column of stitches into the stitch below, it looks as if both colors are worked in a single round, but in fact they aren’t! It’s great. For a tutorial on working into the stitch below, visit: /create/2015/08/20/working-into-the-stitch-below/
Please let us know if you have any questions!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I am missing something, The pattern calls for a solid color at the beginning for the brim, yet the pattern pic show a pink and white in the same row what am I doing wrong.
Hi Betty.
I’m glad you wrote in!
After casting on with the CC, working the foundation round(s) (depending on your cast on method), you begin working the body of the hat.
Round 1 is worked in CC.
Round 2 is worked in MC.
You repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until the piece measures 2 (2 1/4, 2 3/4, 3) inches from the cast on edge. At this point you cut the CC and continue working in only the MC.
During that beginning section though, while you are working with both CC and MC, the fabric does appears as though both colors are worked in a each round, but they are not! You work one round in one color and the following round in the other. That appearance is accomplished by working ever other column of stitches into the stitch below. For a tutorial on working into the stitch below, visit: /create/2015/08/20/working-into-the-stitch-below/
I do hope this helps!
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
How many ply yarn is this? Looks like a fun project.
Hi Judy.
Line Weight is a light fingering weight yarn, also called a 3ply (in the UK and Australia). I hope this helps! Enjoy the project.
Laura
Link to tutorial for Long Tail Tubular Cast On seems to be incorrect.
Mimi!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate you taking the time to let us know! We have fixed the links. Laura
can you make this hat with just 1 color yarn?
Hi Francine!
Yes!! You sure can. Just ignore the Contrast Color and work the entire pattern in the Main Color. 1 skein of a single color of Line Weight is enough for even an Adult Large hat.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I was just wondering if I could do the ‘baby’ size on double points in the round-16″ circular seems so big for a baby. I’m making it for a newborn, would appreciate your advice. Love the hat! Thanks, Gwen
Hello Gwen!
I hope you are well! You can always create a hat entirely on double pointed needles, sometimes its just better to start off with circular needles if you have an overwhelming number of stitches. Feel free to use DPNs exclusively on this pattern since you’ll be making such a small size! Enjoy! -Alyson
Love the hats. I’d like to make them for my granddaughters, 1 and 4 years old. Can you suggest a machine washable alternative yarn?
Hello Brigitte!
Yes! Madeline Tosh’s Merino Light and Anzula’s Squishy would be two lovely alternatives! You can find these and more fingering weight yarns at our online shop here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/3-knitting-crochet-yarn?filters%5B%5D=3
Enjoy! -Alyson
Beautiful! Thank you!
Kristin
Can this be made in DK yarn (8ply)? How many stitches would you recommend?
Hi Marisa.
Thanks for writing in.
Sure! this could be made with a Light Worsted/DK/8ply yarn. Once you figure out your gauge, I would recommend taking your number of stitches per inch and multiplying it by 14 1/2 (17 1/4, 20, 22 1/2) inches for Baby (Toddler/Kid, Teen/Adult Small, Adult Large) size hat. This is your rough cast on number, or around what you’d like your cast on number to be.
Then take a look the existing cast on numbers 88 (104, 120, 136). Perhaps one of the smaller cast on numbers will work for you, depending on what size you’d like to make. If not… You’ll notice there is a 16 stitch difference between each of those cast on numbers. Subtract 16 stitches from the smallest cast on number until you get close to that rough cast on number you calculated earlier.
I do hope this helps Marisa. If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to write back in!
Thanks!
Laura
Hi, thanks so much for all your patterns and support!
On the same topic as this question, I am using a different yarn and making the hat for a newborn, and based on my gauge and the instructions you provided in your reply, I calculated that I needed 56 stitches for the cast-on. I’m now at the “shaping the crown” part, but since I’m starting with much fewer stitches (still in a multiple of 16), I’m a bit stumped about how I should do the decreases. Should I start decreasing from a later point in the pattern? What would you suggest?
Thanks in advance,
Laura
Hi Laura.
With just 56 stitches, you’ll only need to do 3 rounds of decreases. So even though it’s for a newborn, I would recommend starting to shape the crown once you’ve worked approximately 6 3/4 inches (the same as what is recommended for the Baby size hat). You’ll want to do the following…
Set-Up Round: [(K1b, p1) seven times, place marker] three times, continue in established pattern to end of round.
Round 1 (decrease): [K1, p1b, Lsl dec, *p1b, k1, repeat from * to five stitches before next marker, p1b, Rsl dec, p1b] four times. [40 stitches]
Round 2: [K1b, p1, k1, *p1, k1b, repeat from * to three stitches before next marker, p1, k1, p1] four times.
Round 3: *K1, p1b, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 4 (decrease): [K1b, p1, Lsl dec, *p1, k1b, repeat from * to five stitches before next marker, p1, Rsl dec, p1] four times. [24 stitches]
Round 5: *K1, p1b, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 6: *K1b, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Then continue to the section titled FOR ALL SIZES and then onto the FINISH section.
I do hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any questions.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I am absolutely in love with the way this hat looks! My only problem is that I don’t really like wearing hats. Would this design work as a cowl?
Verenice.
What a great idea! It would definitely work as a cowl. Just be sure to cast on an even number of stitches! You can make it any circumference you’d like!
Thanks for writing in!
Laura
Hello,
All of your tutorials are great and I love knitting all the toques! I have pretty, shall we say, basic skills in knitting and I don’t quite understand what the difference in looks would be between the fisherman rib and a regular one by one rib? Does it make the knit extra cushy? Could I do this in the sort of standard rib, or would it not look as good?
Thank you very much for taking the time to help me,
Ellyn
Hi Ellyn.
I’m glad you wrote in!
Fishermans Rib is a broader rib than a standard 1 x 1 rib. The reason is because with Fishermans Rib, for every other column of stitches, you work into the row below. This creates a wider more complex looking purl column. This also allows for fun colorwork like with this color dipped hat. Although you only work each round with a single color, in the end it looks as though you’ve alternated colors around each round. With a standard 1 x 1 ribbing, you cannot achieve this same effect.
It’s a little tough to explain with just words! I would suggest casting on and making two swatches with the same number of stitches and the same yarns so you can compare 1 x 1 to Fishermans Rib. They’re both on my go-to list of stitches, and both have their strengths and weaknesses. It’d love to hear what you think about them.
Oh and if you’re interested in a 1 x 1 ribbed hat… /create/2014/02/02/lauras-loop-the-boyfriend-hat/
Thanks again for writing in. Please let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
This is a really cool pattern and I have been wanting to branch out to new stitches so thanks a lot!
After you compare this with the “boyfriend hat”, what would it look like if you combined the two patterns? Using two colors together like in the boyfriend hat, but also using the contrast color stitch pattern like here. Would the hat be too bulky or would the stitches be too big? Maybe it would just be too much contrast; either way, something to think about!
Hello A.J.!
What a creative idea! There are two main differences… the Boyfriend Hat uses two strands of yarn pulled together throughout the pattern, and the Color Dipped Hat only uses one at a time, also the Boyfriend Hat is a 1 x 1 rib and the Color Dipped Hat is a Fishermans Rib. These two differences combined makes the sizing quite different!
If you want to use two strands of yarn at the same time and work in Fishermans Rib… I would strongly recommend making a swatch before casting on!
Do keep us posted on your project. It’s a great idea! Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
I have never knit this stitch before but I am going to give it a try for sure, you make it look so easy peasy in the tutorials. You give such great instruction and are a huge help to us knitting community. Thanks a bunch.
Keep Calm and Knit On. 🙂
Thanks Sue.
What a nice comment to receive!
Let us know how you like the stitch!!
Laura
I just love this hat and I am ready to start, but I have a question about the size, is it with the hat stretched or unstretched? I think it must make a difference with this kind of stitch.
Thank you very much for all the nice patterns and tutorials!!
Hello Carmen!
Great question! The sizing given in this pattern are the un-stretched circumferences. We’re so glad you like our site and patterns! Happy knitting! -Alyson
Hi Laura,
Thanks for sharing this lovely design. I’m dying to knit the hat but after three failed attempts at joining for knitting in the round and /or the first row with p1b I’m wondering if you have any addition tips and tricks for me. I’m an experienced knitted but am new to Fisherman’s rib. I think I have the k1b down, but could really use some help with the p1b stitch. Thanks so much for your response!
Best,
Monique
p.s. I’m a lefty. Don’t know if that adds anything to this challenge?
Hello Monique!
We’re so sorry you’re having issues with this pattern! Do you knit counter-clockwise since you’re a lefty? Do you knit Continental (holding the yarn in your left hand) or English (holding in your right hand)? As for the join, are you having an issue with the Long Tail Tubular cast on? If you’d like to skip that step, feel free to cast on as you normally do!
What is going on with your p1b? What are you finding difficult with that stitch? Let us know so we can troubleshoot together. Best of luck! -Alyson
Dear Alyson,
Thanks for getting back to me and apologies for my late response! I appreciate your effort to try and troubleshoot together so I’ll try to answer your questions as well as I can 🙂
I knit English style, with the working yarn in my right hand so I think I knit counter clockwise – never gave that any thought before. As far as the tubular cast-on goes: yes, it’s a bit fiddly but I managed to do it before in the Boyfriend Hat pattern so that can’t be the issue.
My problem with the p1b is that it somehow leaves me with enormous holes in the work. I watched a video on how to do it but I can’t seem to copy the stitch the proper way.
I hope this gives you something to go on. Thanks in advance for getting back to me!
Hello Monique!
How odd! Thanks for the clear explanations. Would you mind sending a photo to customerservice AT purlsoho DOT com? That way we can see exactly what’s happening. So sorry you’re having trouble! -Alyson
I can’t wait to make this hat! Just curious how much the adult large will stretch comfortably? I’m looking to fit a man with a 24.5 inch head circumference. It seems like it should be big enough?
Hi Karrie.
Thanks for writing in! Yes!! The Adult Large will stretch to comfortably fit a 24.5-inch circumference head. Hope you enjoy the pattern!
Laura
I tried to make a color dipped hat for a baby, but had to unravel it twice and start from the beginning. The reason: once i make a mistake, it is absolutely impossible for me to correct it. How wonderful would be if there were a tutorial on this!
Hi Calliope!
I am sorry to hear about your struggles with the hat. I appreciate your request for the tutorial. It can be difficult to fix mistakes in this stitch. We’ll keep your request in mind! In the meantime… Is there something that’s continuously tripping you up? I’d love to help get you re-started and finish up that hat!
Thanks for writing to us!
Laura
Laura
I decided to make a “baby bonnet” , instead. I have done it twice before, with very good results.
Thank you Laura, for your compassion with my struggles!
Thanks for the beautiful pattern! I am knitting one for my husband, and have a problem, I would love your advice. After trying the tubular cast on many times (including the foundation rows and a couple pattern rows each time) I just wasn’t happy, I was having lots of tension issues. So I finally gave in and did a normal long tail cast on. It worked great, I am almost done with the “dipped” cuff section and it looks wonderful. However, in a moment of doubt I just counted my stitches & realized I only cast on 134 instead of 136. The thought of ripping it all out yet again is painful. Is it worth continuing if I accept that the decreases won’t be perfectly evenly spaced? Or will the adjustment be worse than starting all over again? Thanks for your help!
Also, I think in the decrease section where the instructions say:
“Repeat rounds 1-6 one (1, 2, 3) times”
It ought to say only 2 additional times for the adult large size, in order to end with 40 stitches as described.
Hi Emilie.
Thank you so much for writing in about this. You are absolutely correct. I have edited the pattern! Again, thank you very very much for taking the time to write to us about this! I am so sorry for any confusion.
Laura
Hello Emilie!
Wonderful job! It sounds like you made the cast on work for you! The Tubular cast on method is quite difficult, so I’m glad that you opted out since it was causing you trouble.
As for the 2 missing stitches, I would definitely not start over again! Continue on and the decreases will only be slightly askew–hardly noticeable! We’re so glad you like the pattern. Happy knitting! -Alyson
Hi, just want to let you know you can disregard my first question! Although I worked out a way to redistribute the decreases, I’ve decided to start over, I know I will be happier in the end. Thanks again for all the wonderful patterns that you share, I’ve made a few things from the Bee and never been disappointed!
Thanks for writing in again Emilie! We’re glad you enjoy our designs! Happy knitting! -Alyson
I adjusted this pattern for blue sky alpaca extra (size9 needles) yarn. I cast on 56 stitches (for an infant hat). I am having trouble understanding how to adjust the pattern for the crown. Your pattern calls for: “[(K1b, p1) eleven (13, 15, 17) times, place marker] three times, continue in established pattern to end of round.” I would have (k1b, p1) seven times. This is where my understanding of this pattern ends. Would you be able to clarify this step?
Hi Francine.
Sure! We’d love to help! So you’re absolutely correct about your Set-Up Round…
Set-Up Round: [(K1b, p1) seven times, place marker] three times, continue in established pattern to end of round.
Round 1 (decrease): [K1, p1b, Lsl dec, *p1b, k1, repeat from * to five stitches before next marker, p1b, Rsl dec, p1b] four times. [40 stitches]
Round 2: [K1b, p1, k1, *p1, k1b, repeat from * to three stitches before next marker, p1, k1, p1] four times.
Round 3: *K1, p1b, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 4 (decrease): [K1b, p1, Lsl dec, *p1, k1b, repeat from * to five stitches before next marker, p1, Rsl dec, p1] four times. [24 stitches]
Round 5: *K1, p1b, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 6: *K1b, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Then continue to the section titled FOR ALL SIZES (which will get you down to 8 stitches) and then onto the FINISH section.
I do hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any questions.
Laura
Hi- I love this hat and am excited to give it a try! This is my 4th purl project and I can’t get enough!!
I’m trying to get the right gauge- I have already gone up to a size 4 needle and am still getting 7 stitches per inch. Assuming you should be getting 6? If this is the case, do you think a size 5 is too large to go to? I’m a tight knitter but didn’t think I would need to go up that much and am worried I’m doing something wrong?
Hello Leah!
I’m worried something is off as well, especially since you self-identify as a tight knitter! Are you making the swatch in the stitch pattern? Are you measuring the stitches with the fabric stretched or un-stretched? Make sure that you measure it un-stretched and that you measure the gauge in the pattern.
Thanks for your kind words about our patterns and best of luck with this one! Please feel free to write back should you still have more questions! -Alyson
Hello,
I made the hat for my daughter and it’s awesome. I would like to make a “color dipped” scarf to go with the hat. Is there any way to knit it flat ? If I use the swatch pattern that you provided for the gauge, I would have to cut my yarn at every row to switch color… I thought there might be a solution on a circular needle or dpns where you slide the stitches on the needles to the other side at times and turn the work at other times, but I can’t figure it out… Hope this makes sense! Thanks!
Hello Melian!
Its totally possible! Take a look at our instructions for our Reversible Stripes Scarf: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/01/17/lauras-loop-reversible-stripes-scarf/. This scarf uses that technique! If you apply the color work and the stitch pattern of *fisherman’s rib*, you should be able to figure it out without too much trouble. The Fisherman’s Rib stitch pattern is available in this scarf pattern: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2015/08/20/seafaring-scarf/
Never hesitate to write in again if you need more guidance! Hope this gets you started at least! Happy knitting! -Alyson
I am an experienced and careful knitter, but even experienced knitters can drop the occasional stitch. I found it impossible to pick up the lost stitch! I started over after knitting almost 2 inches and it happened again! The process of trying to pick up the lost stitch left me with a mess. So very frustrating. I could see it being even more difficult when knitting the body of the hat with only one color. Do you have a suggestion for another hat I can knit with this pretty yarn?
Hello Sherry!
That’s so frustrating! You can use Line Weight to make our Boyfriend Hat as well: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2014/02/02/lauras-loop-the-boyfriend-hat/
Best of luck and happy knitting! -Alyson
Perfect! Thank you so much!
I just started on this pattern and I was able to figure out the Long Tail Tubular Cast On thanks to your very helpful tutorial, but I am confused about joining in the round on this hat. Is the first stitch for joining in the round a purl stitch or a knit stitch? I am thinking I should purl the first stitch to join in the round then k1b, but for some reason that doesn’t seem right. Please help!
Hi John.
Thanks for writing in!
Did you work the two foundation rows after doing the Long Tail Tubular Cast on? If you did, I’m curious, after you worked the second foundation row, did you turn your work or did you keep the same side facing you? You should keep the same side facing you after working that second foundation row. When joining, first you’ll k1b then p1…
I do hope this helps! Please write us back though if you have any questions? I wonder if your tubular cast on was off by a stitch or something and so your ribbing is somehow opposite what mine was? We’d love to help get you on your way! Please don’t hesitate to reach back out.
Laura
Hello!
Thanks a lot for the lovely pattern.
I am about to finish a baby size hat. I finished shaping the crown and I am going to go to the “for all sizes” section, but I think there is a mistake there (of course I might be wrong). The 6th round tells you to (k1b, p1) and then the next round tells you to “k1b, p1” again. So you have to k1b an already k1b stitch so you’ll have four strands, lets say hanging on the “neck” of the stitch. Can that be? This is the first time i knit fisherman’s rib so I don’t know what is possible or not.
Thank you in advance.
Stavroula
Stavroula!
Thank you so very much for writing in! You are absolutely correct. I have corrected the pattern! I do hope you enjoy finishing up the hat. Our apologies for this error!
Laura
Thank you very much!
There is one more little thing though that I think you have to change now, at least for the baby size.
On the “Last Decrease Round”, I guess now it should be (Slip 3 stitches together knitwise, K2tog, pass 3 slipped stitches over and off the needle, p1) and not (p1b) since it was (p1b) on the last round.
Thanks again for the amazing pattern. I did finish the hat and it looks amazingly cute.
Stavroula!
You have saved us once again!
Thank you. Thank you.
Laura
I have lots of your ‘For better or for worsted’ wool. Would this pattern work using this wool? I have no clue as to the amount of stitches I should use, best needle size etc any help would be much appreciated!
(I was in NYC recently and I love your shop, shame I had to return to the uk or it could have become my second home)
Hello Hannah!
This pattern is written for much smaller yarn, so the gauge would be thrown off quite a bit should you use For Better or Worsted! The best bet would be to do a small swatch in the round with the Fisherman’s Rib stitch pattern so that you can estimate how many stitches per inch you get and then calculate how many your cast on should be.
Depending on your usual tension, I would recommend knitting this stitch a little snugger and therefore start the swatch on a US size 6 or 7 needle. We’re so glad to hear you had a good experience at our NY shop! Visit again!
-Alyson
I have a question about shaping the crown. In the first round, there appears to 5 points of decrease, one Lsl dec and 4 Rsl dec. If each decrease results in 2 stitches being decreased, then that totals to 10 st decreased, not 16 as indicated in brackets. Am I missing something? Also, is it correct that the decreases are not symmetrical (evenly spaced)? The first 2, being one Lsl and one Rsl, converge on each other. Is this right?
Hi Terry.
I’m glad you wrote in. The hat has 4 markers to indicate the 4 (or 8, depending on how you look at it) points of decrease.
Each decrease round, excluding the final decrease round, includes 8 decreasing stitches and each decreasing stitch takes away 2 stitches each so each decrease round decreases 16 total stitches.
If you take Round 1 for instance…
Round 1 (decrease): [K1, p1b, Lsl dec, *p1b, k1, repeat from * to five stitches before next marker, p1b, Rsl dec, p1b] four times. [16 stitches decreased]
To recap Round 1… You do the following 4 times: k1, p1b, decrease, work to 5 stitches before the next marker, p1b, decrease, p1b.
That’s 2 decreases stitches 4 times and each decrease stitches takes away 2 stitches… 2 x 4 x 2 = 16 stitches decreased.
Or you can look at Round 4.
Round 4 (decrease): [K1b, p1, Lsl dec, *p1, k1b, repeat from * to five stitches before next marker, p1, Rsl dec, p1] four times. [16 stitches decreased]
To recap Round 4… You do the following 4 times: You do the following 4 times: k1b, p1, decrease, work to 5 stitches before the next marker, p1, decrease, p1.
Once again, that’s 2 decreases per repeat, the repeat is done 4 times, each decrease stitch takes away 2 stitches… 16 stitches decreased.
I do hope this helps!
Please do write us back if you have any questions.
Thanks.
Laura
Hi! I am trying to decide this hat and the reversible hat (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/10/13/reversible-hat-in-purl-sohos-new-line-weight/) – which one would you say is warmer?
Thanks!
Hello Jane!
I would say that the Reversible Hat would be warmer since its two full layers of fabric instead of one thicker layer of fabric like in the Color Dipped Hat. We’re so glad you like the hat patterns! Happy knitting! -Alyson
Love this pattern…thank you for sharing. It’s so dainty!
One question…how can you tell what row you’re on. I’ve been jotting it down, ie. K1b or p1b. If I forget to make note of the current row I’m on, how can I identify?
Hey Dawn!
This is a great question. I’m so glad you asked. Here’s what I do to tell which round I’m on… I look at the stitches on my left needle, just below the needle to see if it is the stitches at the top of the knit columns or the purl columns have a single strand or double strands hanging off of them. If a stitch looks like it’s been worked with two strands, then you’ll work that stitch normally. If it has one strand around it, you’ll work into the stitch below. It’s a bit hard to describe with words, but I hope if you read this while inspecting your fabric, you’ll see what I mean about the single vs double strands hanging off the stitches on the needle. It’ll be easiest to tell when you’re working two different colors. It will be a bit more of a strain when you switch to just the main color, but by then, you’ll know what you’re looking for! Please do not hesitate to write us back if you have any more questions on this topic (or others!).
Thanks again for bringing this up.
Laura
Hello! I’m 5 rows into this lovely pattern, and I’m quite excited! I was able to figure out the tubular cast on, and the fisherman’s knit (first time for both, so that’s exciting!)
However there’s a hole developing in between rounds where I switch between MC and CC. I’m using double pointed needles instead of a circular, but I didn’t think that would make much of a difference… Any thoughts on what I’m doing wrong?
Hi Zoë.
Brava! It’s a great cast on and a great stitch pattern!
I’m glad you wrote in about the hole, you may want to take a look at our tutorial about working stripes in the round. It shows how you can cross the yarns in the back to have a tidy transition from round to round. https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/03/09/stripes-in-the-round/
Let us know if you have any other questions or concerns with the pattern!
Thanks.
Laura
Thank you Laura.
I get it. After looking at the purl bumps, the knit below stitch has a double bump and the purl stitch has a single bump.
So good to know
Hello! I’ve just started this hat and am having trouble with the connection point. I get to the 3rd round after I’ve knit in the MC and I have this big gap between the end and the new round. When I connect I’m using both strings from both the previous round and new color but I still have a gap. Sorry if this question is confusing- any suggestions? Thanks.
Hi Emma.
To have as smooth a transition as possible from round to round, I used a technique showin in our Working Stripes in the Round Tutorial! You may want to check it out. It could be the solution you’re looking for! https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/03/09/stripes-in-the-round/
Please don’t hesitate to write back with any additional questions!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Would I be able to use double pointed needles throughout, for a baby sized hat!
Oh my goodness what am I not understanding? How do you get a continuous one Colour knit row up since you are not slipping any stitches?
Hi Stephanie…
That one-color round comes from the fact that you’re doing single-round striping combined with working every other stitch into the stitch below. It’s a bit of a mind-bender at first, but after a few rounds the pattern will take shape and you’ll see one color appearing on the even columns and one color appearing on the odd columns.
Are you familiar with working into the stitch below? We have a tutorial all about it: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2015/08/20/working-into-the-stitch-below/
Please do not hesitate to write us back with any questions!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Please can you advise a yarn equivalent for in the UK.
Thank you!
Hello Alice!
We used fingering weight yarn for this pattern that is able to yield 24 stitches and 36 rows per 10cm (4″). Any yarn that is able to get that size of stitches would be a viable option for this pattern! Hope this helps! Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
Thank you. I am struggling to find exactly that yield, but I am going to try with a Rowan Wool cotton which is 24 stitches and 32 rows and use 3mm needles. thank you for all your help. I wish we could get your wool in the UK!
I am trying to knit the hat but, I have ran into a little problem! While knitting the MC Row I mistakenly did a purl instead of p1b, I didn’t notice it and I already finished the row. I am knitting on double pointed needles throughout and this stitch is the last one on a specific needle. Is there any way for me to fix this mistake?
Thank you! These patterns are always so pretty!
Hello Kaitlyn!
The best way to correct this error is to take out that whole row and re-knit it. I wish there was a better solution!
Thanks for your sweet words about our patterns and happy knitting! -Alyson
I just finished one of these hats and am about to start another! Love the pattern.
I do have a question about the row gauge though – does 24 sts per 4 inches mean 24 knit and purl columns combined, or 24 knit columns? I measured my gauge at 32 knit and purl stitches total in 4 inches, and cast on the required number of stitches for the toddler hat, which should’ve made my hat come out smaller than the toddler size – but when I measured it, it was the circumference of the adult large!
The hat turned out okay in the end (she’ll grow into it eventually!), but I want to have a better idea of what to expect for the second hat, since it’s for an adult who is all done growing.
Hello, Cecilia!
Thank you for your question! I am sorry your hat turned out larger than anticipated! The gauge, 24 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches is in the Fisherman’s Rib stitch. Did you do a gauge swatch prior to knitting the hat? If not, I recommend making one next time. If you’re still getting 32 stitches over 4-inches in the Fisherman’s Rib, then you might need to adjust your needle size, going down a size or two. Again, it all depends upon your gauge swatch! If you have further questions, please let us know!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
are the swatch instructions correct?
they say:
Row 1: K1, *k1b, p1, rep from * to last two stitches, k1b, k1.
Row 2: K1, *p1, k1b, rep from * to last two stitches, p1, k1.
but in the hat instructions, row 2 is
Round 2: With MC, *k1, p1b, repeat from * to end of round.
If these are both correct, why are they different?
Hi, Ana!
Thank you so much for writing in! Both are correct. They are different because the swatch instructions are for knitting fishermans rib flat and the pattern instructions are for knitting in the round. Again, thank you for your question! If you have further questions, please let us know!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
I am making this hat for my daughter for Christmas, but when I make a mistake I am unable to undo any of the k1b or p1b stitches. I can’t find anything on the internet. Any chance you could post a tutorial on undoing these stitches? I have made several of your projects and find your instructions clear. Thank you so much!
Hello Harriet!
Since knitting in the stitch below depends so much on the previous row, its very hard to undo these stitches—as you have figured out! I would recommend just taking out one stitch at a time and going as slowly as possible. There aren’t really any other good tips! We’ll keep your suggestion in mind however for our future tutorials! Best of luck! -Alyson
Hello,
After reading a few reviews, many people are stating their hat came out bigger than they expected. Would you recommend I use a 1US or casting on less stitches but still making it as long as I’d like it to be?
Sincerely,
A very new knitter :]
Hello Stephanie!
The gauge of this pattern is very small and condensed, for a snug and cozy hat! Make sure to check your gauge and if you are getting stitches that are a little too big, I would definitely recommend going down to a US #1 sized needle. Best of luck! -Alyson
Sorry I also have another question regarding the crown.
Are we suppose to repeat “K1, p1b, Lsl dec, *p1b, k1*” or do K1 P1b lsl dec ONCE and continue the p1b, k1 ?
Hi, Stephanie!
Thank you so much for writing in! You are correct, the pattern reads:
[K1, p1b, Lsl dec, *p1b, k1, repeat from * to five stitches before next marker, p1b, Rsl dec, p1b] four times. [16 stitches decreased]
So, you will do the “K1, p1b, Lsl dec” once. Then repeat “p1b, k1” unitl you get to five stitches before the next marker. Then, “p1b, Rsl dec, p1b.”
If you have further questions, please let us know!
Best,
Kumeko
What a gorgeous hat! Thank you for this posting.
I’m actually knitting this hat with DPNs, and I managed to finish the Long Tail Tubular Cast On.
I haven’t joined in the round yet, because I wasn’t sure how to do this following the Round 1 instructions. So when I join in the round with my fifth double pointed needle, I insert the needle in the stitch below and knit it? Making this first k1b stitch also the stitch that will join my round?
Also, this is the first time I’m knitting with more than 1 color, and so when you say to knit with MC on the 2nd round, do I just pick up the MC yarn and knit it (tying a knot with the CC)? I looked at your Stripes in the Round tutorial, but it starts in the middle of the work. I’m not even at that stage unfortunately. How do I start with a new color? If you have a tutorial about this, that would be great! 🙂
Thanks again,
Kit
Hi, Kit!
Thank you so much for writing in! You are correct, you will join in the round just as we have it written. To add the second color you’ll do the same thing you would do if you were adding new ball of yarn to your knitting.
If you have further questions please let us know!
Best,
Kumeko
Hello! I’m interested in making this hat for my boyfriend in 100% cashmere but am unsure on whether to make it in an adult small or large based on other comments I’ve read about how cashmere doesn’t have the same elasticity as merino. His head brim circumference measures 22 and 3/4. Also, he doesn’t like the slouchy bit at the top so are there any rows I can eliminate so it fits more like a beanie?
Hi, Marisa!
Thank you so much for writing in! Making this hat in 100% cashmere would be so lovely! You’re right, cashmere does not have the same elasticity as merino, but it does have a wonderful, soft drape which can sometimes make for a floppier hat (which is great if that’s what you’re into!) but since you’d like a more fitted look I recommend making the adult small. It will stretch to fit the circumference of his head nicely. As far as making it less slouchy, I’d knit fewer rows in the body of the hat, maybe working the body until it is 8.5 or 9-inches instead of the 9 1/4-inches the pattern calls for). Keep us updated on this goes!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
Hi,
Such a cute hat!
I’m very much a novice knitter, so forgive the question if silly.
Do I knit the foundation row/s first and only after that join to knit in the round? Or do I join as I’m knitting the foundation row?
Thanks!
Manisha
Hi Manisha.
Great questions! Not silly at all! You work the foundation row(s) first, flat, and then you join to work in the round.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I absolutely love this pattern, and am dying to try it! I wonder if there is an alternative or recommendation you have for using a heavier weight yarn? I have an abundance of bulky and worsted weight that I have no clue what to do with and would like to try this pattern, or something similar. Thank you!
Hi Elizabeth!
You’re in luck, we have a few patterns in Fishermans Rib. It’s one of our favorites and it works up beautifully at all different weight yarns.
We have scarves to match this hat, one knit in bulky weight and one in jumbo weight yarn:
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2015/11/23/color-dipped-scarves/
We have another Fishermans Rib scarf, all in a single color, also in bulky weight:
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2015/08/20/seafaring-scarf/
We also have a worsted weight cowl and scarf:
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2010/12/03/whits-knits-fishermans-rib-scarf-and-cowl/
Please let us know if you have any questions about any of these patterns! Fishermans Rib is fantastic and great for getting through that stash of yours!
Laura
Hi there,
I love your patterns and am excited to knit this! I am going to make it in one solid color. I am wondering if the type of stitch is also known as twisted rib stitch? I am slightly confused. Thank you!
Hi Kelty.
Oh goodness, you’re putting my knitting knowledge to the test. There are definitely multiple names all over the world for each stitch. I am not a knitting historian, but I don’t believe this stitch, Fishermans Rib, is also called a Twisted Rib.
As far as I know, a Twisted rib typically refers to when you are alternating knitting and purling, but you’re working either the knit column or all the columns through the back loop. Fishermans Rib is more closely related to Brioche Stitch.
Is there a step in the stitch that is slowing you down. We’d love to help you through it! Please don’t hesitate to write back!
Laura
Is there a video tutorial for the decrease method? I am a little confused. Thanks.
Hi Aaron.
I’m afraid, at the moment, we only have a photo-tutorial for this decrease method. Is there a specific step that’s slowing you down? Please write us back! We’d love to help you.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I’m also having trouble understanding this decrease method. It would be great if you could post a video. I have looked all over the internet and cannot find one for this decrease method. I’m assuming the SSK method doesn’t work because of the fisherman’s knit? Or could we decrease that way ? Similar to the “boyfriend hat” decreases.
Thanks ~Mary~
Hi, Mary!
Thank you very much for writing in! I am very sorry for the delayed response! I am also sorry to hear that you’re having trouble with the decrease. Unfortunately, we don’t have a video for this. We really want help you figure this out, is there anything specific in the decrease instructions that is giving you a hard time? Please let us know!
Best,
Kumeko
Not the original poster, but I am also confused by the decrease method, mostly I am confused by what Lsl and Rsl means?
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for writing in! Lsl dec stands for left slanting decrease and rsl dec stands for right slanting decrease. We do have directions for both of these decreases above under the Decrease heading just before the pattern begins. We use these as a way to decrease while keeping the look of the pattern!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I am very interested in the mittens you have pictured above. I have a problem; the mottens are white and so is the background they are on. It is very hard to see. I am not sure if they are something within my skillset or not.
Hi, Becky!
Thank you for writing in! Sorry for the delayed response. Do you mean these mittens: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/11/07/lauras-loop-long-lovely-mittens/? If so, if you scroll through the pattern you’ll find some much clearer pictures of the mittens.
Please let us know if you have further questions.
Best,
Kumeko
Hi All
Thank you for such beautiful and in my case “challenging” knitting assignments!! I have finished the body of the hat and love it. I am at the point of placing markers for shaping the crown and find i have 110 stitches not 120! I have the markers at 15, 15, 15 and 10. My first question is should I space them out more or if I don’t will the crown be obviously “askew” Thanks again for any assistance!! ~Mary~
Hi Mary,
Oh no! You can certainly work with 110 stitches. Set up your markers thusly: (K1b, p1) 13 times, pm, *(k1b, p1) 14 times, pm; repeat from * to end three times. This way your stitches will be divided as evenly as possible and your hat will not end up oblong at top! Thanks for writing in and good luck with your knitting!
Best,
Adam
Very cute hat pattern that create a warm cozy fabric. However, after trying the pattern out I just wanted to place a friendly word of warning that any mistake will sadly ruin the solid color stripe effect and that correcting errors is difficult at best! The rib pattern is unforgiving.
I would love to know your thoughts on using a different stitch after the color dipped portion. I love the hat, but know it’s going to get messy when knitting a single color. Maybe garter stitch? Not sure how that will affect the stretchiness. May just use a bigger yarn if using a different stitch doesn’t seem like a good option, Thanks!
Hello, Erica!
Thank you for writing in! We are very sorry for the terribly late response! Working this stitch shouldn’t be terribly messy in a single color, but if you are concerned you can certainly try a different stitch. You’re right, the garter stitch does not have same stretch to it as the fisherman’s rib. I recommend making test swatches and experimenting with garter or even stockinette to see if you like the look of those stitches along side a fisherman’s rib rim. Please keep us updated and let us know if you have further questions!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
When measuring the swatch of Fisherman’s Rib, is it meant to be measured as it lies, slightly stretched so as to see the purl stitches, or blocked out?
Hi, Bethany!
Thank you for writing in! I am very sorry for the very, very late response! The sizing given in this pattern are the un-stretched circumferences, so I recommend measuring your swatch as it lies.
Please let us know if you have further questions!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
I have the correct gauge for the number of stitches but not the number of rows. Should I keep keep trying different needle sizes to get the correct number of rows or just focus on the stitches?
Hi Kerri,
Thanks for the question. It depends on how off your row gauge is. Just remember that this pattern counts each stitch as two since you are knitting below for the right side of the fabric on one round and for the wrong side on the next round. Considering this is a hat, row gauge isn’t as important because you will knit up a certain length before decreasing. Hope this helps! Best of luck!
-Adam
That helps tremendously Adam. I have never used stitch markers before…any recommendations on what kind to buy for this pattern?
Hi Kerri,
I like to use Clover’s Locking Stitch Markers for everything. They come in regular size and jumbo. They are great because you can clip the marker on to a stitch is you need to count how many rows you’ve done, etc.
All the best,
Adam
Hi! I love this pattern and am currently making it in two colors of the woolfolk. I have a question for you about the last stitch in the round when you’re working the contrast rounds — do you have a tip on how to work the last p1b? The stitch above keeps getting lost when I switch yarns.
Thanks! Nicole
Hi Nicole,
Thanks for writing in! I hope I can answer your question. When purling below, you will always lose the stitch above because you are drawing the new yarn through the row below and dropping the stitch off the needle. After cutting the CC, you will continue in pattern. Once you get to the end of the first round you have two options: 1. you can purl below and loose the CC stitch or 2. you can just purl that stitch. The choice is yours! Each makes for a pretty good looking join with minimal jogging or gapping. I hope this helps.
Best,
Adam
My husband asked me to knit a hat for him (first time he’s asked me to knit him something!) and I really love this for him. I am trying to substitute a thicker yarn, because US2 needles are really rough on my wrists. I would love to try Worsted Twist, but would it be way too thick and take away from the pattern? Maybe Mulberry Merino would be better. How does the silk content affect warmness? Would love to hear your suggestions.
Thank you for all the lovely patterns you offer!
Hello, Simone!
Thank you for writing in! I think that is exciting that your husband has requested a hand knit item from you, yay! I don’t think the Worsted Twist would detract from the pattern, we used a very bulky yarn for our Color Dipped Scarves and the stitch pattern is still visible and lovely.
With that said, I recommend going with the Mulberry Merino. The silk content gives this yarn a more masculine sheen and does not take anything away from the warmth.
Let us know what you think!
Best,
Kumeko
Would you have a tutorial for the decreases you use for shaping the crown? Not familiar with that stitch! Thank you!
Hello, Jaclyn!
Thank you for writing in! We don’t have a separate tutorial post for this decrease, but we do have a description with pictures of the Rsl and Lsl decrease stitches.
For the Rsl:
“Slip one stitch knitwise with yarn in back, knit one, then…
pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch and off the right needle…
place the knit stitch you just worked onto the left needle, pass the following stitch over it and off the left needle…
place the knit stitch back on the right needle. [2 stitches decreased]”
Then the Lsl:
“Slip one stitch knitwise with yarn in back… knit the following two stitches together… pass the slipped stitch over the k2tog and off the right needle. [2 stitches decreased]”
If you have further questions please let us know!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Can you write a pattern on how to knit the crown… for dummies? I do not understand what to do with how it is written now.
Set-Up Round: [(K1b, p1) eleven (13, 15, 17) times, place marker] three times, continue in established pattern to end of round.
^ What do the numbers 13, 15, & 17 designate? What is it saying to do?
Hello, Rachel!
Thank you so much for writing in! The numbers 13, 15, and 17 refer to the size hat you are making. So, for the Baby size you would (K1b,p1) 11 times (Toddler/Kid 13, Teen/Adult Small 15, Adult Large 17).
Let’s take a look at the Set-up Round and try to clear it up for you. I am not sure what size you are knitting, so for this example I’ll use the Baby size.
Set-Up Round: You will knit the instructions inside the brackets three times:
[(K1b, p1) eleven times, place marker]
[(K1b, p1) eleven times, place marker]
[(K1b, p1) eleven times, place marker]
Then is says “continue in established pattern to end of round.” Here you will:
*K1b, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Does this help? Please let us know!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Hi! I made this hat with merino wool which is a bit thicker, for a total of 72 stitches – still a factor of 16, but I’m a bit confused about how to decrease. How many decrease rounds do I need, and should I follow the pattern for the smallest size? Thanks in advance for the help!
Hi Rosamunde,
Thanks for writing in! For the decreases, the only thing you need to worry about is placing your markers after a purl stitch and dividing your stitches into four even quadrants. The amount you want to decrease is up to you. You can decrease very little for a “gathered” look at top, or until you have 8 stitches as in the pattern. I hope this helps!
Best,
Adam
This pattern is so cute! I started working on my hat this weekend and it was going great, but unfortunately, I ran into some trouble when I absentmindedly made a couple of stitches where I purled two stitches below instead of one stitch below. I tried to tink back and repair, but it wasn’t as simple as with simple k1p1 ribbing, so I am stuck! Can you direct me to any resources for repairing fisherman’s rib? I am far enough into the hat that I don’t want to rip the whole thing out! Thank you!
Hi Julie!
I feel for your troubles as I have had the same problems too! Unfortunately, I’ve found that the easiest and best-looking way to repair fishermans rib is to rip back the rounds until you come to a mistake-free round. I know this does not sound appealing, but in all my trials and tribulations with this stitch it is quite difficult to make the stitch look the same as the rest of the hat if you “pick up the stitches”. Though there are no direct videos about purling two below, there is a very clear video on youtube about fixing fishermans rib and here is the link:
Fixing fisherman’s rib:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrd8MtohamI
Though this tutorial might not resolve your particular situation, it will shed light on the mechanics of fishermans rib, which can be kind of confusing.
Best,
Adam
Hi there, I am knitting this lovely hat for my eldest daughter.
This question might sound silly but when you say cast on 104 stitches, are you counting the loop you do to start casting on, or is this loop not included in the 104 stitches?
Thank youuuuuuu!
Hi June!
Thanks for writing in. Yes, you do count the “loop” or “slip knot” as a stitch. I hope this helps.
-Adam
I love this! It’s been on my “to knit” list since y’all posted it last year, but I’m finally finishing my daughter’s baby blanket (she’s only six months old) and I finally have time.
I have the size 2, 12 inch circular needles used in the Newborn hats project and am wondering if those will work on either the baby or toddler sizes. Also, my daughter will be a year old this winter and has an average size head. Seriously, her head has always measured in the 50th percentile. Anyway, which size should I knit, baby or toddler?
Thanks!
Hi Sara,
Thank you so much for the kind words! I think you should give it a shot on the US 2, 12″ circulars and if it’s too uncomfortable, you should probably buy a 16″. I would knit the baby size for your one year-old because the hat will ultimately stretch out with wear. You could make the toddler size too if you aren’t convinced and she can grow into it. Thanks again for the kind words!
Best of luck to you!
-Adam
I love this hat but I consider myself a beginner knitter ( projects include scarves and blankets). The pattern seems a bit tricky. Do you think it’s something a beginner can tackle? If not, any other hats you would suggest as my first one? I have some purl line weight yarn I am looking to use. Thanks!!
Hi Julie,
Thanks for writing in! If you haven’t knit in the round or made a hat before, then I don’t suggest making this as your first project. Instead, I recommend doing the Hat to Match. It uses line weight and is a relatively simple hat. I hope you like the suggestion!
-Adam
That’s gorgeous! Thanks for the suggestion. Color dipped will have to be another day. 🙂
It’s taken me a few tries but I think I’ve got the long tail tubular cast on and two foundation rows correct finally. However I’m not really clear which is the stitch below to continue with the fisherman’s rib. Help?
Thanks!
Hi there!
Thanks for writing us! So glad you got the tubular cast on down! The stitch below is the hole directly below the stitch on the needle. It might be hard at first to see with so few rows completed, but if you stretch down the cast on you’ll be able to see the hole. Let me know if you have any questions!
-Adam
Hi, I’d love to knit this in a worsted weight yarn, what size of needle would you recommend and how many stitches should I cast on for an adult size please?
Hi Dougal,
Thanks for writing in! While we can’t customize patterns on here, I can certainly guide you! First you’ll want to do a gauge swatch in the round. After you get your stitches per inch, multiply this number by the circumference of your head minus 2″ (negative ease for a hat). This will be your rough cast on number. If it’s an odd number, round up to an even number for this particular stitch. The decreases are divided into four equal quadrants, so also make sure that the cast on number is divisible by four. Best of luck and you can always write back in with more questions!
Thanks,
Adam
Hi!! If I wanted to knit this all in one color, would I just ignore the contrast color instructions and do all of those steps with the same yarn? I love the slouchiness of this hat but would prefer it as a solid color 🙂
Hi Cat,
You are correct! To make a single colored version of this lovely hat, you would just omit the parts where you are changing color and knit the hat as written!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
I was wondering if there is enough yarn to make two hats if I switch the cc for the main color? Thanks!
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for writing in! If you reverse the colors you should certainly have enough yarn to make 2 hats if you reverse the colors.
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Love this hat but am not good enough to work with the small needles yet (I tried, it was a disaster.) Has anyone tried this pattern with super soft merino? I thought I would ask before I do the math. Thanks for all the great info here!
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for writing in to us! I totally understand that the small needles are a bit daunting. If you want to do this hat in Super Soft Merino, I am going to estimate that your cast on will be roughly 48 stitches for a women’s hat. I haven’t swatched this in the round, but I do know that from the Color Dipped scarf pattern we get about 2.25 stitches flat. Best of luck!
-Adam
I am about to start this hat using your Line Weight and a long tail tubular cast on (LTTCO) and I noticed the instructions say, “If you use the LTTCO, don’t forget to work the two Foundation Rows before joining in the round”. I have watched other tutorials on LTTCO and they join the two ends as soon as they finish the first CO row – i.e., with the first stitch of the first foundation row. Why do you recommend not doing so and how important is it? I am a little embarrassed to say, I only make hats so I have only ever worked in the round so I am totally baffled by “turning” my work – I’d be much more comfortable just continuing around and around. May I, please? Thanks.
Hi there,
Thank you for your question! In fact, there are many ways to do a tubular cast on. The way that we show requires the two foundation rows to literally make a “tube” at the bottom edge by a technique called “double knitting”. This has to be done flat and not in the round in order for it to work. There are other methods of the tubular cast on that you can find on YouTube that have you working in the round from the beginning. However, I’d try the method we demonstrate first because it’s important to know how to knit flat too!
-Adam
Hi,
I’m wondering the best way to fix a mistake. I have noticed that I knitted a row 1 instead of a row two and I ‘d like to unlit, but it’s nearly impossible. Any tricks?
thank you. julie
Hi Julie,
At the moment we don’t have a fix it video for fisherman’s rib but there are a few tutorials on YouTube that are quite helpful. Best of luck!
-Adam
I love this pattern but just cannot work with such small needles. I would love to make it in your mulberry merino, but I do not know how to adjust the pattern. Needle size? Cast on? I would so appreciate your help!
Hi Suzanna,
Thanks for the question. First you’ll want to do a gauge swatch in the round to determine your stitches per inch. From there you’ll want to pick a hat circumference and multiply that number by your stitches per inch. This will give you a rough cast on amount — just make sure it’s a multiple of 2!
All the best,
Adam
Thanks for telling me how to get started you are very helpful which I can’t say the same for some of them thank again
I’m making this hat in the newborn size, and I ordered the listed needles. I was bummed to discover when I tried to join in the round that these needles are too long. If the hat is supposed to be 14 1/2″ in circumference and the needles are 16″ long, isn’t that too long? Don’t I need 14″ needles? Or am I doing something wrong? I’m not that experienced with round needles.
Hello Beth!
Thank you writing in! You are correct, the 16-inch circular needles are too long for joining in the round. Thank you very much for pointing this out, we are going to correct the “Materials” ASAP!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
The plain hat is nice but how do you get started on striped one I just don’t seem to be getting nowhere after about 7 rows what shall I do? Thanks
Hi Shirley,
Thanks for writing in. I’m afraid I don’t quite understand your question. Do you mean to ask how you change colors or how you go from using two colors to one? Let me know and I’d be glad to help!
-Adam
Just a quick question… A friend of mine is knitting this pattern, but having trouble. She asked another person to help, but for some reason, when that person works the pattern, it looks different (and correct), compared to when either of us do it. The only thing we can think that we’re doing differently is knitting English, vs the other person’s continental. Would it make that much difference?
Hi Margie,
Thanks for writing in! Whether you knit English of Continental, this pattern should come out the same. The designer of this pattern knits English and I knit Continental and both of our hats have the same look. Have you checked out our tutorial on how to knit into the stitch below (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/working-into-the-stitch-below/)? While demonstrated by a knitter knitting English, the only real difference between English and Continental is the hand in which you are holding the working yarn. If you or your friend are in the NYC area, you can feel free to drop into the shop and we will do our best to help!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hello!
I’m not that great at working with circular needles haha, I was wondering if I could knit this on straight needles with no problems? I understand that shaping the crown of the beanie would probably really difficult.
Any tips?
Thank you so much (:
Hi Nicole,
Thanks for writing in! Knitting this beanie flat would require considerable reworking of the pattern which we are unable to do at present. We do have a scarf knit in two color Fisherman’s Rib (Color Dipped Scarf) that you could use as a template for how to work the stitch flat if you wanted to attempt it!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi –
After showing pics of various slouchy hat patterns to my granddaughter she has chosen this one hands down! However, she wants it all in white. Just wondering if you know what yardage I would need if using only one color.
Thanks so much.
Jill
Hi Jill,
Thanks for writing in! Just one skein of Line Weight will do if you want to do this in one color. Thanks!
-Adam
Hi! I am enjoying this beautiful pattern but I messed up a row and so I pulled it out. But now I am not sure how to put it back on my needles as instead of one row of stitches there are now two parallels rows of stitches — one in each color yarn. When I was happily knitting all the stitches were one or another color alternating by rows, so I know I have to do something to pull it back together into one row but I am not sure what. I can send a photo if you can receive one. All advice appreciated on how to proceed.
Hi Naomi,
Thanks for writing us! In order to fix fisherman’s rib, you need to know how to do Brioche stitch. Click here for a tutorial on that. When you rip out your fisherman’s rib you’ll notice that there is a normal stitch whose exiting thread of yarn floats past the next stitch and forms the stitch after that. You’ll want to pick up the “normal” stitch and then pick up the next stitch with the floating strand together. You’ll repeat this until you’ve picked up all the stitches. In order to get back to fisherman’s rib you’ll need to knit the “normal” stitch and then knit the next stitch together with the float. This will put you back on track. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Hi,
I am in a process of knitting this hat and it looks way too wide. I already knitted about 8 inches. Do you think there is a way of making the hat narrowafywr I finish it? Thank you! Katya
Hi Katya,
Thanks for writing us! Unfortunately there is no fool proof method for making the hat narrower after you’ve knit it up. It seems to me that your stitch gauge is off and that you need to go down a needle size or two. One thing you could do is felt the hat when done. This will shrink it significantly but will also change the look and texture of the fabric.
All the best,
Adam
Hi there!
I love this hat – and I’d love to make it in a tencel yarn. Can you tell me what “line weight” is? Does it equate to lace or fingering weight?
Thanks!
Hello Eileen,
Thank you for reaching out and for the kind words! Our Line Weight yarn is a fingering weight yarn. It has a gauge of 7 – 8.5 stitches per inches on US 1 – 4 needles.
I hope this helps!
-Marilla
If I want to do this hat in 1 solid color would I just need 1 skien for a baby or toddler size?
Hi Dee!
One skein of the line weight should be enough for the baby or toddler sizes!
Happy knitting
Carly
Hey guys, super confused at the round 1 of decreasing. After that first lsl dec, wouldn’t we be at a knit stitch and not a purl? Should I just ignore the ribbing at this point and follow the pattern?
Also, if we start the second part 5 stitches before the next marker, am I wrong to be thinking the pattern only accounts for 4 stitches? 1 goes in to the p1b, then 2 into the rsl dec, and then another 1 into the last p1b. What happens to the 5th stitch?
Hi Megan,
Thanks for reaching out! The lsl decreases are worked over 3 stitches. You slip one stitch knitwise with yarn in back, knit the following two stitches together and then pass the slipped stitch over the two stitches that you knit together this using three stitches (a knit, a purl and a knit). This should put you at a purl that in the first decrease round you will p1b.
This similarly applies for the second part where you p1b, rsl dec, p1b. The rsl decrease uses three stitches plus the plus stitches from the p1b will equal the five stitches before the marker.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
I’m also stuck in this round. I have 120 stitches total, so when I placed 3 markers every 15 stitches it only accounts for half of the hat and it is not divided evenly. Is this correct??
Hi Pendry,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help! You will be placing markers every 15 repeats instead of every 15 stitches ( (K1b, p1) 15 times). This will be every 30 stitches and thus account for breaking the stitches into 4 sections of 30 stitches.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
I’m looking for a ribbed hat to make with a beautiful skein of Madeline Tosh Merino Light yarn. Do you think that yarn would work for this pattern? It seems the Tosh yarn is a bit thinner than Line Weight, so that’s my main concern. Thanks!
Hello Christine,
Thank you for reaching out! I think this hat would be beautiful in Madeline Tosh Light. I think the gauge deference is slight enough that you should be okay. I would knit a little gauge swatch before jumping in, just to prevent any surprises along the way, but I say go for it!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi! I made this hat for my hubby and it turned out beautifully, except for the lines from the Fisherman’s rib stitch appear to go on a diagonal from the bottom of the hat to the top, not straight up as pictured. Do you know why this would have happened? Do you think blocking could fix it?
Thanks!
Lara
Hi Lara,
Thanks for reaching out! Quite curious! The columns of fisherman’s rib should run vertically. I would try blocking it as this can certainly. This could happen if your knits are tighter than your purls of vice versa. If the columns appear to be spiraling up the hat and blocking does not correct them, perhaps you have invented a new technique!
Best,
Cassy
Dear purlsoho team,
like others I am also facing problems with the decrease, particularly the rsl. I resume this is mostly die to the fact that both photo tutorials show exactly the same pictures for both decreases – or maybe it is just me not getting the difference? Lsl is no problem at all… Thanks a lot for your help (as I am no mother-tongue I am usually very much depending on the photos or videos when I cannot follow the wording).
Best
Kerstin
Hello Kerstin,
Thank you for reaching out! I would agree that the rsl is slightly more complicated than the lsl, I hope I can help clear it up for you. Here is what you do step by step;
-Slip one stitch knitwise with yarn in back
-knit one
-pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch and off the right needle
-place the knit stitch you just worked onto the left needle, pass the following stitch over it and off the left needle.
-place the knit stitch back on the right needle. [2 stitches decreased]
What you are essentially doing is casting off each stitch on either side of the stitch that you knit, onto the stitch that you knit.
I hope this helps and let us know if you continue to have questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
When you are doing the 2 foundation rows what colors do you use?
Hi Anne,
Thanks for your question! The two foundation rows are worked in the Contrast Color, as is Round 1. You will join the Main Color on Round 2.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I am making ear warmers for the Special Olympics program and wondering if I can just bind off when I get to the desired height of the ear warmer instead of finishing the hat?
Hi Francie,
What a lovely, generous project! You could absolutely bind off for a cozy, stretchy ear warmer in Fisherman’s Rib. A Long Tail Tubular Bind Off would be the best match for the cast on edge, but you could also bind off in knit one, purl one pattern if you prefer.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Do you join the long tubular cast first before starting the k1b or you join the cast by the k1b?
Thank you.
Hi Dina,
Thanks for reaching out! We worked the Long Tail Tubular Cast On and both foundation rows before joining, and then used the first k1b of row 1 to join the hat into the round.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
I love this pattern! It’s my first attempt at fisherman’s rib and I managed to get the main body down, but I went to decrease and realized I only have 100 stitches (I’m using larger needles/yarn so maybe I did a swatch and that’s why I don’t have 104 or 120?) and now I’m at a total loss!! Do you have any ideas on how I can do the decrease with my existing stitches?
Hello Danielle,
Thank you for reaching out! I would reccomend continuing as instructed, but I would do the set up round as follows; “Set-Up Round: (K1b, p1) 12 times, place marker, (K1b, p1) 13 times, place marker,(K1b, p1) 12 times, place marker continue in established pattern to end of round.” This means that you will always have 2 less stitches in your first section and your third section. I hope this helps and let us know how it goes!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
THANK YOU! The numbers worked out perfectly. I had some trouble with the final decrease round and the DPN (because I had carried the two colors all the way to the top). It didn’t come out perfectly, but now I know I can do this and practice. Thank you!
Working on this hat, I like the two-color look so much that I’m thinking of continuing it all the way to the top. Have you done that? Do you have any tips for working the decreases and finishing the hat using two colors? thanks!
Hi Rachel,
What a great idea! Since the decreases are worked every other row, you will always be working the decreases in the same color, so they should look just fine in two color Fisherman’s Rib without making any modifications.
I hope that helps, and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Hi, I love this pattern. I’m doing one for my husband but I have only 88 stitches, I guess my yarn is a bit thicker. Anyway I was thinking about using the two colours for the whole hat; how would that affect the decreasing? I read in another comment that the decreases should always be worked in the same color but I’m not sure how since the pattern says to decrease in round 1 and then again in round 4 (this way the colour won’t be the same). What should I do, decrease every other row?
Thanks
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for reaching out! It definitely would be easier to work the decreases in one color the way that the stitch pattern works, you certainly can work the decreases in two colors but it may look a bit funky in spots. You do not want to decrease every row though because it would cause the crown shaping to progress to quickly resulting a shorter har and would not leaving adequate space for the head in the crown!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello,
In need of a little help here. I have gone through the “shaping the crown” portion for a large had and done the 6 rounds 3 times now. It says in the instructions that there should be 40 stitches left but I have 72! plus the markers are not evenly placed anymore. Not sure what to do here. should I just continue to decrease until I get to 40 stitches??
Thanks for your help!
Nevermind! I went ahead and finished it. Realized that I was onl Lsl on the first set of stiches each time and not throughout. I was able to fix it though!
Hi Molly,
Whoops, I responded to you before I saw this comment! So glad to hear that you’ve already fixed the mistake.
All the best,
Lili
Hi Molly,
Thanks for reaching out. It seems like you’re missing some of the decreases in this section! Within the 6-round repeat, there are two rounds that include decrease stitches. These are Rounds 1 and 4, and they each end up decreasing by 16 stitches. There should be 4 markers present on your hat, and one decrease is worked on either side of each marker, and since you’re using right and left slanting decreases, each decrease stitch actually decreases by two stitches! In order to get the correct shape for the hat, I would recommend frogging back to the beginning of the SHAPE CROWN section and trying again, keeping in mind the number of decreased stitches you’ll need after each decrease round. I hope this information helps you visualize better what’s going on in the decrease rounds!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I saved this pattern back when you posted it and am finally knitting it! Everything makes sense, but when knitting in the round and using the two colors, when you are at the end of a row and changing colors, should the new working yarn be over or under the other? The last vertical knit “bump” is not all the same color and I think it has to do with which yarn is on top at the end of each round. Would it be different for the CC and MM? Thanks for your help!
Hi Jen,
Thanks for reaching out. It sounds like you’re noticing the “jog,” which is expected when changing colors in the round! This is because knitting in the round creates a spiral of knit stitches, rather than a stack of circles, and the color switch simply happens along this spiral. I know it can be a bit unsightly, but I wanted to assure you that it’s perfectly normal to have a jog at this point (no matter which yarn goes over the other), and fortunately it only happens once per round!
All the best,
Lili
This is likely too late to help op but I wanted to flag that I don’t think this question was actually answered!
When you drop MC and pick up CC or vice versa, you have to choose whether one strand is carried on top of the old one or underneath. I haven’t found any definitive answers to this, but my approach has been to separate out the two strands and see where they seem to want to go naturally. I don’t think I’ve been overlapping the strands at all when picking up the new one. My end of round stitch column seems to look normal enough, but I think that’s because I’ve been consistent in ordering my MC and CC strands when I switch colors.
Hi there! I’m knitting this hat with the long tail tubular cast-on, and I’m a little confused about how it’s coming out once I started switching colors. I’m finding that the 2nd setup row turns into one long strand that isn’t really worked into the hat. When I K1b in the first row after the setup rows, I’ve been making sure to keep that yarn that gets carried across the slipped stitch from the previous row below my right needle when I insert it into the stitch below. Should I be inserting my right hand needle below the carried over yarn so that it gets looped into that stitch? Hopefully this makes sense…thanks!
Never mind, I solved my problem. I figured out that I do a row of k1 p1 for the entire first row after the two setup rows, it fixes the problem. Thanks!
Hi Cara,
I’m so glad to hear that you were able to figure it out already! I’m sure your explanation will be useful to others as well.
All the best,
Lili
I am knitting this in sport weight baby alpaca for wool allergic people. My swatch turned out fine, but due to alpaca not having memory to spring back, do you think I should size it down?
Hi Ellen,
Thanks for writing in. I think that’s a great idea to size down the gauge a bit for exactly the reason you mentioned!
All the best,
Lili
I was about halfway through making this hat when I got distracted by other projects and set it aside for about a year. Now as I return to it, I’m finding it a bit challenging to figure out whether I left off partway through a Round 1 (K1b, p1) or a Round 2 (K1, p1b). I imagine that if I do it wrong it will become apparent after a few additional rounds of knitting, but would rather just do it right the first time since undoing the k1b and p1b stiches is pretty tricky (at least, I am really bad at that).
Do you have any tips for how to examine the work in progress and tell which round I am on? I am well into the solid color portion, so color cues won’t help me.
Hi Nicole,
Thanks for writing in, and that’s a great question! The trick to telling what round you’re on is to look at the stitches on the round just below the live stitches. If the stitches in the knit column have two strands of yarn showing on the wrong side of the fabric, then you’ve just completed a Round 1. And if the stitches in the purl column have two strands of yarn showing on the right side of the fabric, then you’ve just completed a Round 2. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
You are a lifesaver, thank you!
Hi there! My son-in-law wants me to knit this beautiful hat pattern. He purchased 2 skeins of Seasons of Alpaca. Having only knit once with alpaca which had been blended with wool, I found the alpaca “grew” sizably. Do you think the Season Alpaca could work for this hat? Any other advice? Thank you!!
Hi Camille,
Thanks for writing in! Season Alpaca is a sport weight yarn, so it’s actually a bit too thick for this pattern, since it was designed for a fingering weight yarn. But you could absolutely make it work by casting on fewer stitches!
To figure out your new cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern with Season Alpaca. Be sure to block your swatch so you can take the measurements after the yarn has “grown”! Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the finished circumference of the size you want to knit and cast on the nearest multiple of 8. Then you can follow the pattern essentially as written!
The only thing you’d have to adjust is the Set-Up Round for the CROWN. Here’s how to knit this round with any multiple of 8 stitches: Set-Up Round: [(K1b, p1) (cast-on number / 8) times, place marker] three times, continue in established pattern to end of round.
I hope this helps you get started!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much!! I will give this a try!!