At first bud a tulip’s elongated petals are packed tightly, protectively hugging its center, but it doesn’t take long for the stance of the petals to soften. Those lovely ovals separate slightly and open finally, giving a glimpse of what’s inside. Even as the petals flounce, they remain in an embrace, now catching the sunlight, as well as the attention of admirers.
Wanting to experience the beauty and femininity of a tulip’s structure, I designed this Tulip Tank Top to wrap and overlap, to gently hug my center… maybe even to attract some admirers!
I took advantage of the beauty and drape of Louet’s 100% linen Euroflax, knowing it would fall gracefully and catch the light with movement. I knit this piece primarily in stockinette stitch for a smooth finish and a pretty, little curl along the short-row-shaped edges. And over time, you can expect the linen to soften and relax, becoming better with each wear.
I may not be frolicking amidst the actual tulips this year, but my new Tulip Tank has me feeling as fancy-free as if I were! -Laura
Materials
- 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) skeins of Louet’s Euroflax, 100% linen. This is the color Cloud Grey. (Please note, we no longer carry Louet’s Euroflax as we now carry own very special Field Linen! You will need 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) skeins of Field Linen for this project!
- US 5, 32-inch or longer circular needles
- US 3 32-inch or longer circular needles
- US 3, 16 or 24-inch circular needles
- 2 stitch markers
Gauge
24 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch with the smaller needles
Sizes
31 (35, 39, 43, 47)
- Finished Chest Circumference: 31 (35, 39, 43, 47) inches
- Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 22 ½ (23, 23 ½, 24, 24 ½) inches
- Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 14 inches
- Ease: This garment is designed with a 2 to 4-inch ease.
Notes
This garment is shaped using short rows. For our complete Short Rows Tutorial, please click here.
wrp-t (wrap and turn)
- on the right side: Keeping the yarn in back, slip the next stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. Bring the yarn to the front. Return the slipped stitch to the left needle. Bring the yarn to the back. Turn the work so the wrong side is facing you.
- on the wrong side: Keeping the yarn in front, slip the next stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. Bring the yarn to the back. Return the slipped stitch to the left needle. Bring the yarn to the front. Turn the work so the right side is facing you.
Pattern
Body
With the larger circular needle, cast on 98 stitches, place marker (pm), cast on 83 (119, 155, 191, 227) stitches, pm, cast on 98 stitches. [279 (315, 351, 387, 423) total stitches]
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl.
Row 2 (right side): Knit.
Transfer stitches to smaller needle.
Start Short Row Shaping
NOTES:
- For this portion of the pattern, you will be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work part way through each row rather than continuing to the end of the needle. For our complete Short Rows Tutorial, click here.
- The markers indicate where the short row shaping begin. With each consecutive row you will work one stitch past the previously wrapped stitch, away from the markers and closer to the end of the row.
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to second marker, slip marker (sm), wrp-t (see NOTES above).
Row 2: Knit to second marker, sm, wrp-t.
Row 3: Purl to wrapped stitch, slipping the markers when you come to them, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p1, wrp-t.
Row 4: Knit to wrapped stitch, slipping the markers when you come to them, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1, wrp-t.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 forty-eight more times (at which point just one stitch remains after the wrp-t on each side).
Next Row (wrong side): Removing stitch markers as you come to them, purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p1 to end.
Divide Front and Backs
Next Row (right side): Knit 93 (105, 117, 129, 141), place these stitches on scrap yarn for Back Left; knit 93 (105, 117, 129, 141), place these stitches on scrap yarn for Front; knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1 to end. [93 (105, 117, 129, 141) stitches remain for Back Right]
Backs
Shape Back Right
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl.
Row 2: K2, ssk, knit to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two (10, 11, 14, 22) more times. [87 (83, 93, 99, 95) stitches]
Continue Shaping Back Right
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl.
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: K2, ssk, knit to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1-4 twelve (9, 9, 9, 6) more times. [61 (63, 73, 79, 81) stitches]
Cut yarn and leave stitches on longer circular needle.
Back Left
With shorter needle, join yarn to wrong side.
Follow instructions for SHAPE BACK RIGHT and CONTINUE SHAPING BACK RIGHT.
Do not cut yarn.
Overlap Backs
Lay piece on flat surface with wrong side facing you. Fold the Back Right so that the cast on corner meets the left underarm at the point where you divided the Front and Backs. Fold Back Left so that its cast on corner meets the right underarm. Carefully flip the piece over so the right side of the Front is facing you. The wrong side of the Backs will be facing you.
Graft Backs and Bind off for Neck
Orient the two circular needles with the Back Left and Back Right stitches in your left hand. Hold the needles parallel with the wrong sides of the Backs facing you and the working yarn coming from the right end of the back needle.
Working through the stitches on both the back and front needles simultaneously, use the left end of longer needle to…
Next Row (wrong side): Purl 3 (3, 6, 9, 9), bind off following 55 (57, 61, 61, 63) stitches purlwise for Back of Neck, purl to end. [6 (6, 12, 18, 18) total stitches; 3 (3, 6, 9, 9) stitches for each Shoulder]
Cut Yarn.
Front
With shorter needle, join yarn to wrong side…
Shape Front
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl.
Row 2: K2, ssk, knit to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two (10, 11, 14, 22) more times. [87 (83, 93, 99, 95) stitches]
Continue Shaping Front
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl.
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: K2, ssk, knit to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1-4 seven (4, 5, 6, 3) more times. [71 (73, 81, 85, 87) stitches]
Shape Front Neckline
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Purl 8 (8, 10, 12, 12), pm, purl 55 (57, 61, 61, 63), pm, purl to end.
Row 1: Knit to marker, sm, make 1 right (m1R), knit to following marker, make 1 left (m1L), sm, knit to end. [2 stitches increased]
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: K2, ssk, knit to marker, sm, m1R, knit to following marker, m1L, sm, knit to last 4 stitches, k2tog, knit to end. [2 stitches increased and 2 stitches decreased]
Row 4: Purl.
Repeat Rows 1-4 four (4, 3, 2, 2) more times [81 (83, 89, 91, 93) stitches]
Next Row: Removing stitch markers as you come to them, knit 3 (3, 6, 9, 9), bind off following 75 (77, 77, 73, 75) stitches, knit to end. [6 (6, 12, 18, 18) total stitches; 3 (3, 6, 9, 9) stitches for each shoulder]
Finishing
Shoulders
Use the kitchener stitch to graft together Front and Back Shoulder stitches for both the Left and Right Shoulders. For our Kitchener Stitch tutorial, click here.
Armholes
RIGHT ARMHOLE
With the right side facing, using the shorter circular needle and beginning at the center of the underarm, hold the two Backs together to insert the needle through both Backs and pick up 1 stitch from each stitch along the entire armhole edge. Join for working in the round.
Bind off knitwise.
LEFT ARMHOLE
Using the same method as you did for the Right Armhole, beginning at the center of the underarm, pick up 1 stitch from each stitch around the entire armhole, remembering to go through both Back edges when you come to them. Join for working in the round.
Bind off knitwise.
Weave in Ends and Block
Weave in the ends and block garment as desired.
PRINT
Laura,
Can you please send me the instructions and picture for sewing the shoulders once you have finished knitting everything?
Thanks a lot,
Susana
Hi Susana,
Thanks for writing in! The detailed instructions for this lovely pattern and all accompanying images can be found above. If you would like to print these instructions, you can do so be following these instructions!
If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
You are a star – thank you for taking the time to put my mind at ease.
Karen
Hi
Could you send me a french version?
Thanks for your help
Sophie
Hi Sophie,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately, this pattern is only available here in English. An Italian translation, created by a kind customer, can be found on Ravelry (http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tulip-tank-top).
Thank you for your request!
Cassy
Könntest du mir bitte die Anleitung auf deutsch übersetzen?
Hi Bettina,
Thanks for writing in! At this time we are only able to provide our patterns and support in English. Thank you for your request!
Best,
Cassy
Okay so I blocked it and the length is perfect! Drapes beautifully. Wondering if it will hold the shape after I wash it again. The directions on the yard said to wash and tumble dry. Do you recommend putting it in the dryer?
Hi Whitney,
Thanks for writing us! Washing and drying this garment in the machine is fine because the linen does need to be beat up a bit to get softer. I would just make sure your ends are super-secure so nothing unravels. Hope this helps!
Adam
Hello!
Do you think this pattern would convert easily enough if I was to use your Cattail Silk instead? I’m hoping this will work for a 39″ tank top. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!
Thank you!
~Lisa
Hello Lisa,
Thank you for writing in! I think the Tulip Tank will be beautiful in our Cattail Silk. I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch before jumping in, but I say go for it.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi Laura,
I’m loving the pattern so far, I’m almost at the end of the short row shaping before moving onto the backs and I’ve noticed that I’ve cast on one too many stitches!
If worst comes to worst I’ll frog it but I’m wondering if you have any suggestions? Do you think I could just slip the last stitch off and tuck in the slack? for just one stitch with only two rows done on it, it seems like such a waste to start over at this point!
Thank you,
Rachel
Hello Rachel,
Thank you for writing in. Oh no! That is always a frustrating discovery. Unfortunately if you want the pattern to come out correctly you will need to frog it. If you wanted to cast off a stitch it might create a small bump. If you don’t mind this than go for it! It will probably only be noticeable to you. I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Hello,
First of all I need to say I TRULY love all that you do and how you portray it. I dream of visiting your store someday and maybe start a franchise here in Italy? 🙂
I quickly skimmed through all the comments and found that you advise against using german short rows in this pattern as it would require modification: german short rows are the only short rows I am comfortable with.
By modification do you simply mean that we have to take into account always knitting an extra stitch before “turning and wrapping” (as the gsr method requires) or does the method simply not work? Being a process knitter I have started and am moving along with the gsr method: will I regret this at some point 🙂 ?
HI Sarah,
Thanks for writing in and apologies for the delayed response! You certainly can use German short rows here, you will just need to modify the pattern a bit. If you are doing German short rows, you’ll want to knit to the german short row, pick it up knit-wise or purl-wise depending on which side you are on, knit/purl 2 stitches, then german short row.
I hope that this helps and thank you so much for your kind words!
Cassy
Just finishing the Tulip tank – as I started grafting the shoulders, I realized that the armholes are short as is the lenght – about 3 inches too short – the gauge is right on.
Even if I block it, it will still be too short.
I am a farily experienced knitter, and feel confident that I followed the instructions accurately.
Have you heard this from anyone else? Is there an errata?
Hi Ellen,
Thanks for writing in! Oh dear! We have not heard this issue from others who have knit this pattern. Are you getting row gauge as well as stitch gauge? If you are not getting row gauge, you can add additional rows between each decrease row in order to lengthen the arm holes.
I hope that this helps and please do not hesitate to reach out with any further questions!
Cassy
I am loving my tulip tank so far. I am at the part of shaping back left. The directions say to follow instructions for shape back right. It does not say to reverse them and I want to be sure before I get too far. Thanks, Sherry
Hi Sherry,
Thanks for writing in! I can clarify! There is no need to reverse the shaping for the left side as the shaping is even and works for both sides!
Best,
Cassy
I love this pattern but am not sure the back will work for me – the front is gorgeous – is there a way I could modify the back to not have the opening?
Hello Bri,
Thank you for writing to us. It is always inspirational to hear new ideas like this! Unfortunately the crossed back is central to the way this top is constructed so it might be a little tricky to lengthen/eliminate it. You could experiment with eliminating some of the short rows or even doing something completely deferent with the body and just keep from the under arms up. I hope this information is helpful. Let us know how it goes!
Warmly,
Marilla
Thinking this might be my next project! Would it work in the cattail silk?
Hello Elena,
Thanks for writing us! I think this would be beautiful in cattail silk. I would still, of course, knit up a gauge swatch before jumping in.
Let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Is there a bind off you recommend for the armholes? After picking up all the stitches, I tried a regular bind off and it seems to either just lay flat in sections or roll inside. Thanks!
Hi Debbye,
Thanks for writing in! We used a standard pass over bind off here. Based on your description, I would try using a slightly larger needle to bind off the armhole stitches! This may help out with the issues that you are experiencing.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I made this top but it seems longer on the right than the left. That what it looks like on your site. Is that right? Thank you, Karen
Hello Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! This top is designed to be the same length on both sides. I crosses in the back, but each side should knit up the same. I hope this helps!
-Marilla
Hi there,
I’ve just finished all the short rows, and have divided the stitches for front and backs; however, I measured the length and am 1.5″ short of the 14″ measurement from bottom of armhole to bottom of top. I read about the 2-4″ ease, but to be honest I’m not sure what that is. What does an ease mean?
My gauge is correct stitch wise, but I had about 3 too many rows to fit 4″.
I’m well aware that linen “grows” as you wear it, and would be happy to leave my project as is if I can block it out to the proper measurements, but I’d also more than gladly restart and work more short rows as someone else did previously as I gathered from pursuing the comments.
Thank you so much!
Hey Stella!
For this pattern it asks you to knit with 2″-3″ of positive ease. To do this you take your chest circumference and add 2-3″ to that measurement. So if someone had a 33″ chest circumference they would probably choose to knit the 35″ size!
I hope this helps!
Carly
Thank you Carly. My bust measurement is 36″, should I make the 39 size?
Also, my gauge is short row wise, how can I get my finished piece to be longer?
No problem Stella! 39 is perfect! I would definitely go with that size.
I think that your gauge issue might prove to be a bigger problem later on when your piece is finished. Have you blocked your swatch in water yet?
-Carly
Hi Carly,
Yes. I just knitted anther gauge to make sure I’m using then correct measurements. After I washed and pressed by swatch, it seems that I have 24 sts=4″ (correct for gauge) but have 36 rows=4″ which is much smaller than the gauge. I’ve never come across a problem like this before, what can I do to overcome this problem?
I am so sorry to be such a pain, thank you for your help! Just to confirm, my bust size is a 36″ but my bra size is 34″, so I should make the 39″? I’d like the top to fit more loosely (and drape as lovely as it does in the photos!)
Thank you again
Hey Stella,
maybe try to size up your needles one more time and see if that is a little closer to gauge! Row gauge is important for the yoke of the top so I would try to get it as close as possible.
Keep me posted if it works out!
Carly
Hi There!
I am stuck on the part where I bind the front and back pieces together. I can’t seem to figure out how to knit with 2 needles in the left hand! Do you have a tutorial or anything to help?
Thanks!
Hi Melyssa,
We have a tutorial explaining how to do a 3-needle bind off which may be helpful to get an idea of how to knit with the 2 needles in the left hand.
3-Needle Bind Off
I hope this helps!
Carly
Love this beautiful tank! I just finished the Top & Bottom top — my first top! — so I’m feeling confident and want to try another. Would this work with the Field Linen?
Hello Magdalena,
Thank you for reaching out and congratulations on finishing your first top! This top would knit up beautifully in our Field Linen.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi there,
I’ve read all the comments on this pattern and I am confident that my question has not been addressed. I’m not using the exact yarn called for, so I’m going to declare that from the very start. I’m trying it in a superwash merino, to get some warmth in it (I live in Canada).
I made a gauge swatch, and the stitch count is on. I tend to be a loose knitter, but I noticed that the cast on is far too generous for the size I’m aiming to get into. Is it possible that the pattern shrinks as you knit up the back panels? I measured the front, and it is 5″ larger than needed, even with the positive ease. Should I frog it and start over with the correct number of cast in stitches, or leave it as is and hope it isn’t too big?
Thanks!
Vanesda in Toronto
Hi Vanessa,
Thanks for writing in! The cast on for this lovely top will seem quite a bit bigger than normal. This is because you will be working short rows to create more fabric in the middle (front) of the piece. The cast on edge will draw up and create the diagonals across the back. Thus the measurement will be from the back under one arm, down and around the front, back up the other side of the back and to the other under arm. There fore, for the smallest size, the cast on should measure 46 1/2 inches, far larger than you would expect for a 31 inch bust!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Thank you so much! I realized this as I kept knitting. It was still too large a gauge, but now I can see how the garment is shaped.
Vanessa
Hello,
I am working on starting the short rows section of this pattern, and I am confused about one part. For the very beginning of the short rows, am I knitting only the section between the two markers?? The pattern makes me think that I’d go from the beginning to the second marker, and then all the way back to the beginning, but I am unsure.
Thanks for your help!
Brooke
Hi Brooke,
You are basically knitting back and forth between the markers, slipping the markers as you go to do the wrap and turn.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
I am a novice knitter, so this might be a silly question. When you say you slip the markers, are you doing the wrap and turn on the stitch with the markers? Or just slip that stitch to the other needle and wrap and turn the next one?
thanks! this site has been so helpful for learning techniques : )
Hi Alex,
Thanks for reaching out! In the case of this pattern, the markers are not attached to stitches but are rather between stitches. They help to let you know where a certain section begins or ends. When you slip markers in this pattern, you will move them from the left needle to the right needle, maintaining their position!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello!
I am thinking of doing this pattern as my next project, but before I start, I have a question. I was wondering if you think it is possible to knit sleeves on this top to make it a sweater with how the armholes are set up in this pattern. I love the pattern, but I live in Canada, and its a bit too chilly up here this time of year to wear a tank top.
Thanks for your help!
Lydia.
Hi Lydia,
Thanks for writing in! While we do not have directions on how to add sleeves, if you are feeling adventurous, you could certainly give it a go! The arm holes here are not quite standard so you may have to do a bit of trial and error to figure things our. You could pick up stitches around the armhole and do a short row sleeve cap and then continue with the sleeve down to the wrist or you could try knitting sleeves from the cuff up and then sew them in. We do not have tutorials on how to alter patterns in this way but there are a lot of resources out there on the internet that may be of help to you!
Alternately, you could wear a really great, long sleeve top under this lovely sweater, styling it almost as a vest!
Best,
Cassy
Is there a yarn in Anzula I’d be able to use for this top? I’d like something that can be thrown into the washing machine and that’s my go-to brand. Thank you!
Hi Katrina,
Thanks for writing in! The closest equivalent in Anzula is Anzula Cricket. It is a bit thicker than the Euroflax that we used here, coming in at 5 stitches per inch instead of 6. I do think that you could get gauge with Cricket but your fabric may be a bit less drapey. As always when substituting yarn, I would suggest knitting a gauge swatch to ensure that you like the fabric at the required gauge.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
I can’t remember if it’s this top or the short row sweater, but would Ultra Pima work? Is it in the same boat as Cricket and a bit thicker than the yarn used? I remember using it for a wedding gift (blanket) and loving the color and feel. Thanks for your help.
Hi Katrina,
Thanks for writing in! Cascade’s Ultra Pima should work here as well. It is a touch heavier but you should be able to get gauge using it! The Short Row Sweater should also work with Ultra Pima. It is quite lovely and the drape is quite nice as well!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
How many yards of yarn is required for small and medium size? Thank you!
Hi Katrina,
Thanks for writing in! For this lovely sweater, we use sizing based on finished bust circumference rather than small, medium, large. We feel like this allows for a better fit in the end. To select your size, measure around the fullest part of your bust and add 2 to 4 inches and choose the nearest size. For instance, if your chest measurement is 39 inches, you will add 2-4 inches for a result of 42-44 and you would select the size 43. For sizes 31 (35, 39, 43, 47), you will need 634 (740, 848, 960, 1076) yards!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Just finished this in Cattail Silk. Second size took me almost a whole skein (I have a walnut-sized ball left). It was a little tricky to get gauge but it’s beautiful.
Hello! Thank you for making this beautiful pattern available. Can you advise whether it would work with your Linen Quill?
Hi Hannah,
Thanks for writing in! Although Linen Quill is a bit lighter weight than the Louet Euroflax we used for this top, I have actually knitted a sweater out of Linen Quill at this exact gauge and it does result in a lovely soft and drapey fabric! You will have to knit and block a gauge swatch and may find you have to change your needle size to obtain the correct gauge, but I think this is a great idea!
Best of luck and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Does it matter which side (back left or back right) you choose to leave on top when you graft the two together?
Hello Josephine,
This is a great question! The instructions say to fold the right side in first. The rest of the pattern will assume that is what you have done, and therefore give instructions with that assumption so it will be easier for you to folow the rest of the pattern if you put the left over the right.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello!
I’m knitting the top, that I love so much, to my daughter.
The size I choose is 31, with cotton yarn and needles size 4mm.
I am at the “shaping back right” and I am with doubts
When I divide 93 to the shaping back left, the same st. to the front and the same to the shaping right back.
The decreases suggested are 1+10 times, i.e. 22 sts decreased.
But the instructions says 87 sts remaining.
I think must be 93 -(11×2=22) 71
“Row 2: K2, ssk, knit to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two (10, 11, 14, 22) more times. [87 (83, 93, 99, 95) stitches]”
Can you help me please?
Thank you very much
Ana
Hi Ana,
I think I can help! When you start this set of instructions, you do begin with 93 stitches, and then work rows 1 and 2, so you have 91 stitches. You will then repeat rows 1 and 2 only two more times so you have 87 stitches – it is a bit confusing since the number two is written out and the numbers inside the parentheses are not, but since you are knitting the smallest size, you will always be following the instructions that are numbered just before the parentheses.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I am still in the short rows section of the pattern. It makes sense to me that you would keep repeating rows 3 and 4 until there is one stitch left on either side of that section. However, when it says “repeat rows 3 and 4 forty-eight more times,” I get confused because I’m thinking that is only going to be forty eight rows. Or is it 96 since you’re repeating 2 rows? Am I overthinking this? Help!
Hi Beth,
Great question! For this step, you will be working rows 3 and 4 48 times, for a total of 96 rows.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’ve just finished this top but it came out really long! Is it because I changed from W&T to German short rows somewhere in the knitting process?
Thank you! I’m planning to try again.
Hello Martha,
Thank you for reaching out! You can use German short rows here, you will just need to modify the pattern a bit. If you are doing German short rows, you’ll want to knit to the german short row, pick it up knit-wise or purl-wise depending on which side you are on, knit/purl 2 stitches, then german short row. Does this make sense? How long did your top come out to be? It could also be a row gauge issue.
I hope this is helpful and let me know if you have any more questions!
-Marilla