Tulip Tank Top
At first bud a tulip’s elongated petals are packed tightly, protectively hugging its center, but it doesn’t take long for the stance of the petals to soften. Those lovely ovals separate slightly and open finally, giving a glimpse of what’s inside. Even as the petals flounce, they remain in an embrace, now catching the sunlight, as well as the attention of admirers.
Wanting to experience the beauty and femininity of a tulip’s structure, I designed this Tulip Tank Top to wrap and overlap, to gently hug my center… maybe even to attract some admirers!
I took advantage of the beauty and drape of Louet’s 100% linen Euroflax, knowing it would fall gracefully and catch the light with movement. I knit this piece primarily in stockinette stitch for a smooth finish and a pretty, little curl along the short-row-shaped edges. And over time, you can expect the linen to soften and relax, becoming better with each wear.
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
I may not be frolicking amidst the actual tulips this year, but my new Tulip Tank has me feeling as fancy-free as if I were! -Laura
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoTulipTankTop. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5, 5) skeins of Purl Soho’s Field Linen, 100% linen yarn. Each skein of this fingering-weight yarn is 295 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 665 (740, 820, 925, 1015) (1095, 1180, 1305, 1395) yards required. We like the color Silver Thistle.
OR
- 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 6, 6) skeins of Louet’s Euroflax, 100% linen yarn. Each skein of this sport-weight yarn is 270 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 730 (810, 905, 1020, 1120) (1205, 1315, 1440, 1540) yards required. This is the color Cloud Grey.
You will also need…
- US 5 (3.75 mm), 32-inch or longer circular needles
- US 3 (3.25 mm), 32-inch or longer circular needles
- US 3, 16- or 24-inch circular needles
- 2 stitch markers
Shop our wonderful collection of sport-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
Gauge
24 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on smaller needles
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
31 (35, 39, 43, 47) (51, 55, 59, 63)
To fit chest circumference of 26-29 (30-33, 34-37, 38-41, 42-45) (46-49, 50-53, 54-57, 58-61) inches with 2 to 5 inches of positive ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 31 (35, 39, 43, 47) (51, 55, 59, 63) inches
- Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 22½ (23, 23¼, 24¼, 24¾) (25, 25½, 26¼, 26½) inches
- Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 14 inches
NOTES
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS
SHORT ROW SHAPING: WRP-T (wrap and turn)
NOTE: For more information about this technique, please visit our Short Rows tutorial.
On the right side: Keeping yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to front. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to back. Turn work so wrong side is facing you.
On the wrong side: Keeping yarn in front, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to back. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to front. Turn work so right side is facing you.
SSSK (SLIP, SLIP, SLIP, KNIT)
Slip three stitches knitwise, one at a time. Insert left needle into front of slipped stitches and knit together. [2 stitches decreased]
PATTERN
BEGIN AT HEM
Using a Long Tail Cast On and larger circular needles, cast on 98 stitches, place marker (pm), cast on 83 (119, 155, 191, 227) (263, 299, 335, 371) stitches, pm, cast on 98 stitches. [279 (315, 351, 387, 423) (459, 495, 531, 567) total stitches]
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to end of row.
START SHORT ROW SHAPING
NOTES: In this section, you will be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work partway through each row. The markers indicate where the short row shaping begins. With each consecutive row you will work one stitch past the previously wrapped stitch, away from the markers and closer to the end of the row. For extra help, see Special Instructions.
Change to smaller 32-inch circular needles.
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to second marker, slip marker (sm), wrp-t (see Special Instructions).
Row 2 (right side): Knit to second marker, sm, wrp-t.
Row 3: Purl to wrapped stitch, slipping markers as you come to them, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p1, wrp-t.
Row 4: Knit to wrapped stitch, slipping markers as you come to them, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1, wrp-t.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 forty-eight more times (at which point just one stitch remains after the wrp-t on each side).
Next Row (wrong side): Removing markers as you come to them, purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p1 to end of row.
DIVIDE FRONT + BACKS
Division Row (right side): K93 (105, 117, 129, 141) (153, 165, 177, 189), place these stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn for Back Left; k93 (105, 117, 129, 141) (153, 165, 177, 189), place these stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn for Front; knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1 to end of row. [93 (105, 117, 129, 141) (153, 165, 177, 189) stitches remain for Back Right]
Backs
Shape Back Right
SIZES 51, 55, 59, AND 63 ONLY
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Row 2: K2, slip slip slip knit (sssk, see Special Instructions), knit to last 5 stitches, knit 3 together (k3tog), k2. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 – (–, –, –, –) (3, 4, 5, 7) more times. [– (–, –, –, –) (137, 145, 153, 157) stitches remain]
ALL SIZES
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Row 2: K2, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to last 4 stitches, knit 2 together (k2tog), k2. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two (10, 11, 14, 22) (19, 20, 21, 20) more times. [87 (83, 93, 99, 95) (97, 103, 109, 115) stitches remain]
CONTINUE SHAPING BACK RIGHT
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Row 2: Knit to end of row.
Row 3: Repeat Row 1.
Row 4: K2, ssk, knit to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1-4 twelve (9, 9, 9, 6) (6, 6, 6, 6) more times. [61 (63, 73, 79, 81) (83, 89, 95, 101) stitches remain]
Cut yarn and leave stitches on smaller 32-inch circular needles.
Shape Back Left
With smaller 16- or 24-inch circular needles, join yarn to wrong side.
Work as for SHAPE BACK RIGHT.
Do not cut yarn.
Overlap Backs
Lay piece on flat surface with wrong side facing up. Fold Back Right so that its cast-on corner meets the left underarm at the point where you divided Front and Backs. Fold Back Left so that its cast-on corner meets the right underarm (see above photo). Carefully flip the piece over so the right side of Front is facing you.
GRAFT BACKS + BIND OFF FOR NECK
Hold two circular needles with Back Left and Back Right stitches parallel with wrong sides of Backs facing you and working yarn coming from right end of back needles.
Working through stitches on both the back and front needles simultaneously, use left end of longer needles to…
Next Row (wrong side): P3 (3, 6, 9, 9) (9, 11, 13, 15), bind off following 55 (57, 61, 61, 63) (65, 67, 69, 71) stitches purlwise for Back Neck, purl to end of row. [6 (6, 12, 18, 18) (18, 22, 26, 30) total stitches remain: 3 (3, 6, 9, 9) (9, 11, 13, 15) stitches for each Shoulder]
Cut yarn.
FRONT
With smaller 16-inch needles, join yarn to wrong side.
SHAPE FRONT
SIZES 51, 55, 59, AND 63 ONLY
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Row 2: K2, sssk, knit to last 5 stitches, k3tog, k2. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 – (–, –, –, –) (3, 4, 5, 7) more times. [– (–, –, –, –) (137, 145, 153, 157) stitches remain]
ALL SIZES
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): K2, ssk, knit to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two (10, 11, 14, 22) (19, 20, 21, 20) more times. [87 (83, 93, 99, 95) (97, 103, 109, 115) stitches remain]
CONTINUE SHAPING FRONT
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to end of row.
Row 3: Repeat Row 1.
Row 4: K2, ssk, knit to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1-4 seven (4, 5, 6, 3) (2, 2, 2, 2) more times. [71 (73, 81, 85, 87) (91, 97, 103, 109) stitches remain]
SHAPE FRONT NECKLINE
Set-Up Row (wrong side): P8 (8, 10, 12, 12) (13, 15, 17, 19), pm, p55 (57, 61, 61, 63) (65, 67, 69, 71), pm, purl to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to next marker, sm, make 1 right (m1R), knit to next marker, make 1 left (m1L), sm, knit to end of row. [2 stitches increased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Row 3: K2, ssk, knit to next marker, sm, m1R, knit to next marker, m1L, sm, knit to last 4 stitches, k2tog, knit to end of row. [2 stitches increased and 2 stitches decreased]
Row 4: Purl to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1-4 four (4, 3, 2, 2) (3, 3, 3, 3) more times [81 (83, 89, 91, 93) (99, 105, 111, 117) stitches]
Next Row (right side): Removing stitch markers as you come to them, k3 (3, 6, 9, 9) (9, 11, 13, 15), bind off following 75 (77, 77, 73, 75) (81, 83, 85, 87) stitches, knit to end of row. [6 (6, 12, 18, 18) (18, 22, 26, 30) total stitches remain: 3 (3, 6, 9, 9) (9, 11, 13, 15) stitches for each Shoulder]
FINISHING
SHOULDERS
NOTE: For help with Kitchener Stitch, visit our tutorial.
Use Kitchener Stitch to graft together Front and Back Shoulder stitches for both Left and Right Shoulders.
ARMHOLES
With right side of Back facing you and beginning at center of underarm, use smaller 16-inch circular needles to pick up and knit 1 stitch from each stitch around entire Armhole edge, inserting needle through both Backs on back side and through just the Front on front side.
Join for working in the round and bind off loosely knitwise.
Repeat for other Armhole.
WEAVE IN ENDS + BLOCK
Weave in the ends and gently wet block.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
This is a beautiful design!
Oh this reminds me of that other top you did that had this crossover back. I LOVED it and it came out too short, so this looks perfect!!!! Can't wait 🙂 <3
This is stunning! What a clever and chic design.
Do you think adding sleeves would spoil it? I rarely go out in sleeveless these days. 🙂
– Jules
I am not sure what size to make – I measured my bust and it's 31" but the notes that say it's designed to have a 2" – 4" ease – does that mean I should make the 35" size? Thank you! It's a beautiful design.
Just WAUW!
Need it in every color
Hi Alison,
Thanks for your compliments and for writing in. To answer your question… Yes… if I were you, with a 31-inch bust, I would make the 35-inch size. BUT!!!! You could make the 31-inch size. It just depends on how'd you'd like it to fit. It may be nice fitted. The mannequin is wearing the 35-inch size and has a 34-inch bust. Let me know if you have any more questions on fit or anything else.
Laura
I I made the 35 it is flowing around your body more that way. my bust comes out fine for Small, but the body drapes beautiful when it is wider. my next one will be s maller.
Hey Jules.
This could be very cool with sleeves. I love that idea. I might just have to rework the pattern with sleeves come fall! Maybe in Purl Soho's Line Weight?! If you do it, let me know how it goes!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Laura, can you suggest a lower-cost alternative yarn that will work well with this pattern? Many thanks — Norma
This is lovely!
Hi Norma.
I'd love to suggest some alternate yarns…
Cascade's Ultra Pima
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/7117-Cascade-Yarns-Ultra-Pima
Cascade's 220 Superwash Sport
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8066-Cascade-Yarns-Cascade-220-Superwash-Sport
Blue Sky's Sport Weight Alpaca
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/714-Blue-Sky-100-Sport-Weight-Alpaca-Solids or https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/1105-Blue-Sky-100-Sport-Weight-Alpaca-Melanges
MadelineTosh's Tosh Merino Light
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/7957-Madelinetosh-Tosh-Merino-Light
Please let me know if you have any question about these yarns or the pattern!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
This is beautiful. I may have to learn to knit.
Love this!
Its gorgeous as is but for those of us who wear bras but don't feel comfortable in strapless bras, could you post a variation that's sleeveless but would cover the straps? Thanks,Simone
Hi Simone.
Thanks for writing in. I appreciate the feedback. I'll definitely keep your request in mind and put it on our list of to-do's. I am not sure which size you'd be interested in knitting… but, just so you know… the Size 31 and Size 35 are 3/4 inches wide at the shoulders. The Size 39 is 1 1/4-inches wide at the shoulders and the Size 43 and 47 are 1 3/4 inches wide. Again, I am not sure if this is helpful or not, but I thought I would let you (and any other interested readers) know.
Thanks again for writing in.
Best,
Laura
Laura, this Tulip Tank Top design is truly genius and incredibly funky. I just love it and wanted to say thank you for publishing it here freely. I will definitely be making one in the near future 🙂
Love this. For the knitter who doesn't want her bra straps to show, consider a racer-back bra, they work like a charm.
Fascinated by this top. Where was this when I had the bod and arms to wear it. LOL
Any full-sized ladies who made and wear this?
Hi Laura,
I love the look of this top! I'm kitting it with Euroflax Sport Weight. The Louet website suggests washing and drying the swatch before checking the gauge since linen relaxes after washing. I was wondering if a washed swatch is what your gauge is based on and if I should choose a size that takes the post-washing relaxing into consideration (I'm smack in the middle of two sizes).
Thanks for being so accessible for questions!
Leslie
Hi Leslie.
Thanks!
I definitely blocked my swatch (I submerged it in water and then laid it flat to dry) and that blocked swatch is what my gauge is based on. I highly recommend blocking your swatch because like you said, the linen relaxes after washing and blocking it will give you a more true sense of how the garment will look and feel after a few wears.
What is your bust size (if you don't mind me asking)? What sizes are you debating between? The piece can definitely be warn with just an inch of ease (like the mannequin). In other words, I would go with fewer inches than more as long as you aren't planning to wear another shirt under it.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
What a stunning top! Can I just confirm: for a bust size 36, would you recommend knitting the size 39 – obviously, depending on how my swatch goes – and it won't be too big or gape at the back?
Hi Laura,
Thanks for such a speedy response! The swatch is drying now and I can already see a difference in how the fabric behaves. My bust size is 41 and I was debating between 39 and 43. A while back I made a top out of linen ribbon (Lang's Lino) in large (110 cm – 43-3/4"). At first it fit well with a just little ease, but after a few washings has definitely gotten looser – a bit more like hanging than draping. Will this yarn do the same thing? I'd more than likely not wear another shirt underneath the Tulip Tank.
Thanks so much!
Leslie
Hey Leslie… I would definitely go with Size 43. Two inches of room is a great amount for this piece. I have worked with this Euroflax quite a bit. It will soften over time with wearing and washing and as the fabric relaxes there will be some drape, but sine you're knitting it at 6 stitches to the inch (not too loose), it shouldn't grow too be too big or get too drapey. Feel free to rough your swatch up… really wash it a few times and scrunch it about… this way you may get a better idea what it'll be like long down the road.
Holler if you have any other questions! Hope you enjoy the pattern.
Laura
Hi Laura my daughter has asked me to knit this design but I haven’t worked with many patterns before. She wants it to be 18 in from shoulder to hem. My gauge of 24 stitches and 28 rows = 3 inches. How many stitches will I need to cast on for each section?
Hi Sonia,
While we’d love to be able to help you with this, I’m afraid these kinds of modifications would be outside the scope of support we can offer at this time. I’m so sorry about that! If you have any other questions, please feel free to let me know!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi Anne,
I appreciate your kind words!
Yes. I would go with the Size 39 if you have a 36-inch bust.
That is only 3 inches or ease and should not gape in the back.
Thanks for writing in. I hope you enjoy the pattern.
Best,
Laura
Hi Laura,
Such a gorgeous pattern!
I'm a 38 bust and can't decide between the size 39 (will it be too little ease?) or size 43 (too much ease?). What would you recommend?
Thanks,
Liz
Hi Liz.
It just depends on how you'd like it to fit. The mannequin has a 34 inch bust and is wearing the Size 35. The linen will definitely relax and soften over time, not necessarily stretching out, but increasing in drape. I think I would go with the Size 39. That said… if you are thinking of wearing another shirt under it…. maybe the 43 is best.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Best,
Laura
Hi! How are the edges at the shoulders finished? Meaning the little corners where the backs meet before the armholes. Thank you, Caroline
Hi Caroline.
Thanks for writing in.
You can read under the FINISH section of the pattern about how the armholes are finished. In finishing the armholes, first you pick up stitches around the entire armhole, going through both back edges grafting them together. Then you bind off. The corner that meets the bottom of the armhole will be tacked down and secured in place during this process.
Please let me know if you have any questions about this (or anything else).
Best,
Laura
This is such a lovely top, next time i'm in new york i am definitely swinging by for some yarn.
Hi Laura,
I love this sweater – thank you so much for writing and posting it for free!
This is perhaps a complicated question, but on the off chance it isn't, I thought I would ask. I would love to make this more of a scoop neck/back, is there a simple way to do that?
Thanks!
Hannah
I am on row 3 and I am stuck already. I am good with thw wrap and turn but was i supposed to change all my stitches over to the smaller needle before starting the row? I purled to the 2nd marker, did the wrap and turn and now I have the remaining stitches on the size 5 needle. How do I knit back? Can I move on somehow without having to tink 200 plus stitches?! Help!
Hi Hanna…
Unfortunately there is not quick way to explain how to change the neckline. I will keep your request in mind though and try to get a scoopneck project on the calendar!
I'm sorry we don't have the resources to re-work this pattern at them moment. Thank you for writing in.
Laura
Hi Anne.
You definitely do not have to tink 200 stitches!
You can simple slip the stitches from one needle to the other rather than knitting or purling them from one needle to the other.
If you have the wrong side facing, and you have purled to the 2nd marker with the smaller needle and those purled stitches are all on your right hand needle… take the end of your right hand needle (the so far, un-used tip of the smaller needle) and use it to slip the stitches off the larger left hand needle, starting at the far far left of your working row, slipping the stitches on to the smaller needle until all of your stitches are on the smaller needle and the larger needle is empty.
Is this clear? It's a bit hard to explain.
Please write me back with questions!
Laura
Hi Laura,
If I wanted to make this size 35 with the Tosh Merino Light, how many skeins would I need? Thank you,
Tracy
Hi Tracy,
The Size 35 requires approximately 740 yards which would come out to 2 skeins of Tosh Merino Light.
Thanks for writing in Tracy. I love the idea of this in a beautiful wool like Tosh Merino Light!
Laura
Hi!
I love this pattern, but I think it’s a bit long for me. How would one go about making it a bit shorter (2 inches, ideally)? I’m making size 35 and I’d like it to be 21 inches from shoulder to hem/12 inches from underarm to hem.
Thanks!
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in.
To shorten the top approximately 2 inches… you’ll want to work fewer short rows. So to begin you’ll…
With the larger circular needle, cast on 92 stitches, place marker (pm), cast on 95 (131, 167, 203, 239) stitches, pm, cast on 98 stitches. [279 (315, 351, 387, 423) total stitches]
Then, work remainder of pattern as instructed.
Please let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
Could you use a similar change to make it a couple inches longer?
So it would be: cast on 104 pm, 71 (107, 143) pm, 104?
Hi Anna.
YES! You definitely could. It would be…
With the larger circular needle, cast on 104 stitches, place marker (pm), cast on 71 (107, 143, 179, 215) stitches, pm, cast on 104 stitches. [279 (315, 351, 387, 423) total stitches]
Let me know if you have any questions! Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Is this a mistake? Is this reply to Sarah supposed to say, 92-95-92? (rather than 92-95-98)?
Question: I am knitting it in Seduce, and I am getting 6 sts/inch rather than 7. I want to make the smallest size, and I too would like it to be 2 inches shorter. So, starting with 78-78-78 as one-thirds of these 234 stitches, I would want to do something like this: 73-88-73? Does that make sense?
Valerie.
Yes. You are correct about that typo in that response to Sarah. I have written again. I sure hope she catches it. Thank you so much for kindly pointing it out!!!
As for your question… without knowing your row gauge it’s hard to know how to adjust your cast on stitch count to vertically adjust the pattern by 2 inches! But it seems as though your logic is dead on!
Laura
Sarah…
Another commenter kindly pointed out that I have a typo in my response! it should be… cast on 92 stitches, place marker (pm), cast on 95 (131, 167, 203, 239) stitches, pm, cast on 92 stitches.
Please let me know if you have any questions!!!
Laura
Hi,
I’m so confused by the geometry of this. What is the shape of the piece after you’ve finished the short rows, before you’ve moved on to shaping the back? Even better, can you help me understand the shape at each stage?
Hi Celia.
I hope I can help clear up your confusion. It is a difficult shape to explain with words and that’s why I included the images of my process throughout the pattern. Have you taken a look at the images?
I can explain the steps though. You can on a number of stitches that is 3 times the width of the front. 1/3 of the stitches are for the Back Left, 1/3 for the Back Right and 1/3 for the Front. You would across back and forth across a chunk of stitches in the center of your row, you with each row you work a bit wider to the left and right. These are short rows. This is what creates the slanted edge along the backs. Once the hight from bottom edge to underarms is complete you divide for the backs and front. At this point you work the two backs separately and then the front. Then you overlap the backs to connect them and then connect the back to the front. You finish by edging the underarms and weaving in your ends.
I apologize for any confusion.
I will look into having a schematic made.
In the meantime… maybe check out the Short Row Sweater which uses a similar technique for shaping. Or simple our Short Rows Tutorial
Best.
Laura
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2011/10/25/lauras-loop-short-row-sweater/
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/06/18/short-rows/
Love the Pattern but difficult to print in usual manner.
Hi Joy-
I’m so sorry about this! Our new site, unfortunately, doesn’t have an easy way to print built into it. However, all of our new patterns going forward will have print friendly PDFs and we are also going through our older patterns slowly converting them to PDFs as well. Of course none of this helps you right now with this particular pattern! So what we’d recommend is that you copy any paste the pattern (and any pictures you might need) into a Word or Text doc and print from there. You might also consider using a site like http://www.printfriendly.com/
Thanks so much for getting in touch and for bearing with us!
Best-
Molly
question:
my daughter wants me to knit her the small but wants it a bit longer. is that possible with this pattern?
Hi Nancy.
YES! It definitely is. To make this piece longer, you’ll want to work more short rows, so you’d begin…
With the larger circular needle, cast on 104 stitches, place marker (pm), cast on 71 (107, 143, 179, 215) stitches, pm, cast on 104 stitches. [279 (315, 351, 387, 423) total stitches]
Then you’ll work the remainder of the pattern as instructed.
Let me know if you have any questions! Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Hi Laura,
This is my first attempt at a more difficult pattern so I hope my questions do not come off as juvenile. I have just done my first row with the wrp-t, and am a little confused. Once I get to the second marker and do the wrap turn, do I knit to the end of the row (bringing me back to the start position of row 1)?
That is what I have done, but then I find to continue the stockinette stitch that I must purl across the entire row to move on to row 2 with the knit and wrp-t. So with every row, must I purl/knit twice essentially to move on? I hope I have clearly explained my question. Please let me know if I need to further clarify!
Thank you in advance!
Madison
Hey Madison.
Thanks for writing in. You’ll learn a ton doing this project, it’s a great choice for a first more difficult pattern. The shaping here is done using a method called Short Rows. We have an entire tutorial on it: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/06/18/short-rows/ Essentially, when working short rows, rather than working across an entire row or round, you only work a portion of the row or round, a short portion… a short row.
So to answer your question. No, you do not knit to the end of the row (bringing you back to the start position of row 1).
I hope this helps clear things up.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
Thank you for such a delightful little charmer.. Am looking forward to being able to make it.
Beautiful pattern! How would you recommend altering the pattern if I don’t want to show much of my lower back, in other words criss-crossing a little lower on the back without elongating everything else? I’d hate to ruin the lines of this pattern though… Thank you!
Hi Linda.
Thanks for writing in.
The shaping is fairly integral in the structure of the top, but you could definitely modify it.
The length, from the bottom edge to the underarms, comes from the number of short rows you work. This short row shaping is also what creates the reveal on the back. You could work fewer short rows (start doing them farther our towards the edges), but to compensate, you’ll have to work evenly to get enough length to the underarms. This means that swooping line on the back won’t end right at the underarm, but rather will end lower and then you’ll have a straight edge for a bit.
Give it a try! Let me know how it goes.
Happy New Year.
Laura
Hi my daughter has a long torso. How would you recommend lengthening the pattern. Bust wise she is a 39 but shoulder to hip she is 26in. I normally have to lengthen standard patterns about 10 inch to get the correct proportions.
Hi Kota.
Thanks for writing in.
To lengthen the garment you’ll want to work more short rows. To work more short rows, you’ll want to place your markers closer towards the center of your stitches.
For another commenter I worked out how to make the piece a couple inches longer…
With the larger circular needle, cast on 104 stitches, place marker (pm), cast on 71 (107, 143, 179, 215) stitches, pm, cast on 104 stitches. [279 (315, 351, 387, 423) total stitches]
If you wanted to make it even longer, say 4 inches longer than the original, then you could…
With the larger circular needle, cast on 110 stitches, place marker (pm), cast on 59 (95, 131, 167, 203) stitches, pm, cast on 110 stitches. [279 (315, 351, 387, 423) total stitches]
And if you wanted to make it even longer, just use this same logic… placing those marker closer and closer towards the center.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
Thanks I just wanted to check the logic cause I was having that dreaded mummy maths brain panic. I ended casting on 110 for her . Yes she is a stretch.
To double check. I shouldn’t have to any other alterations to the pattern in the shoulder shaping.
Loving my splodge at the moment as I am getting heaps of left hand continental knitting done for the purl rows. Doing wrap and turns with out turning the whole project, Yeah!
Hi Kota.
Yes… in the shoulders! Thanks for brining that up.
After CONTINUE SHAPING BACK LEFT, CONTINUE SHAPING BACK RIGHT and CONTINUE SHAPING FRONT, for each of these sections, I would maybe work an inch or so evenly before moving on to the next direction! Maybe measure your daughter’s favorite shirt and then take a look at the schematic, and then see how much you may need to continue evenly.
Let me know if you have any questions!!
Laura
I only recently began knitting this vest and I’m already stumped by something. Under the first part “short row shaping” it says to complete rows 3 and 4 48 additional times and you will end up with one stitch after the wrap-and-turn on each side…. I have completed 48 rows and have many stitches left on each side. … So maybe I’m reading this wrong? Am I to knit/purl an additional 48 rows, or to make rows 3 and 4 48 times (which is 96 rows)? Thanks!
Hi Lauren.
Yes! Exactly. You work Row 3. Then you work Row 4. And then you repeat Rows 3 and 4 forty-eight more times (so that means you’ll be working 96 more rows). It sounds like you’re half way there!
Let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
I am wanting to make this with Rowan Pure Linen. The gauge on the label is 17 st = 4 in on a U.S. 7 ( Aran weight). I knit a swatch and got 18st/4″ and the fabric is very loose and see through… Not what I want for a tank top and now what your pics look like… Any suggestion you have for knitting this pattern with this yarn? Should I just go down needle sizes or knit according to the gauge on the label? I am good at doing the math to match up to your pattern so either suggestion (or another you might have) I think I can adjust to. Thank you!!
Hi Niki.
I would try this yarn on several different needles until you find one that produces a fabric that you like! Once you find a needle size that renders a fabric that suits you, then measure the gauge and see if it will work with this pattern!
If you’re comfortable doing the math to modify the pattern to match your gauge, then that’s all the more reason to make sure you have a fabric you like, regardless of the suggested needle size and gauge.
Hope this helps.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
Hi there, I am making the smallest size of this beautiful sweater. Is there perhaps a typo in the instructions for shaping back right? If I start with 83 sets and dec 1 each end 11 times I will have 71 sts not 87, right? Xoxo, leslie
Oh, I see. I didn’t see the “two” in Repeat rows 1 and 2 two more times because it wasn’t in the usual format 2 (10, 11… I figured it out when I read the next section and thought through why there would be 12 decreases.
Could you tell me the length from the shoulder to where to back crosses? I may want to modify the pattern so not as much of the lower back will be exposed.
Hi Irene,
Thanks for writing in! The back is 13.5″ from the shoulder on this pattern. If you want to rework the pattern to get a lower back I recommend working all the stitches after the short rowing section for as many inches as you’d like to add to the back.
I hope this helps and feel free to write us back if you need anymore suggestions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
What a beautiful pattern! I’ve never knit with short rows before, but I might have to give this one a shot.
This is probably a very amateur question, but I’m a bit confused. When you begin shaping the short rows and say to knit to the second marker on the wrong side, which marker is that? Is it the first marker you add when you cast on (but is further away (“second”) on the wrong side) or the marker that appears second on the right side but first on the right side?
Thanks for any guidance you can offer!
Sacha
Hey Sacha,
Thank you for the comment! Short rows are a little tricky in the beginning. You want to knit until you reach the second marker in that row. It will be the first marker you place in the cast on but the second from starting that row.
I hope this helps clarify the pattern and please feel free to respond with anymore questions!
Happy Short Rowing!
Jake
I am making this in the shorter version in size 35, so cast on 92, 131, 92. Do I need to make any other adjustments further in the pattern? Thank you for this pattern and the comments are most helpful too.
Hey Dianne,
Thank you for the comment! That cast on sounds like a good way to make it shorter. You could also take out some rows from the armholes if you’d like but I do not think it’s necessary. Once you’ve done the short row portion with your modification you will have a better idea if you need to adjust any other parts of the pattern for your desired length.
Hope this helps and feel free to write back if you need anymore assistance!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
I used a silk bamboo for the bottom 2/3 in tan and a 100% bamboo in white for the top. It drops very nicely….I am working on the armholes and just wanted to verify that you pick up stiches around the entire armhole and without knitting a row, cast them off? Knit wise?
The cast on was the only modification needed by the way. Thanks so much…
Hi Dianne.
Your fiber combo sounds amazing.
Regarding the armholes… Working around the armhole, remembering to go through both layers of Backs, pick up stitches all the way around. Then once you have made your way around and have a needle full of stitches, go around again, binding off knitwise.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
It is finished and feels lovely on. Thank you so much for this lovely well designed pattern.. I would like to knit this without the double over back as I think it might be a little warm…but maybe it is just the material I used.
I have a questions regarding changing to the smaller needle. Do I put all the stitch onto the smaller needle after row 2 or do just start knitting and do some stitches stay on the larger needles after Row 2 of Short Row Shaping? That is what I did but I don’t think that is correct. Also is this pattern knit in a round or it looks like it is not.
Thanks!
Hi Shannon.
First – This top is knit flat and then folded to create the criss-cross back.
Second – Great question! I see that the pattern isn’t (or wasn’t, I’ve fixed it now) as clear as it could be. You should transfer the stitches to the smaller needle. Otherwise, like you said, you’d awkwardly have your stitches on two separate needles throughout the short row section.
I’m so glad you wrote in. I do hope this wasn’t too frustrating for you!
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
I would love to have a go at this for my daughter but don’t want to spend this much as I am not too experienced a knitter. I thought of trying the Cascade Ultra Prima but am a bit confused. This is tagged as Sportweight which we don’t really have in the UK but my comparison chart says is 4ply- the site I buy from says Ultra Prima Fine is 4 ply and Ultra Prima is double knitting. Not sure which one to go for -please can you help?
Hi Lynn.
I’m glad you wrote in. It’s easy to get stumped by all the different names describing weights of yarns. I often turn to Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yarn_weight
I used Euroflax for this project. It’s a “Sport Weight” yarn as we say in the US. It is the weight that fall right between a 4ply and an 8ply or DK (Double Knit). So the answer for which yarn to use isn’t so black or white.
For this piece I was working at 24 stitches to the 4 inches in the Euroflax.
Both Ultra Pima http://www.cascadeyarns.com/cascade-UltraPima.asp and Ultra Pima Fine http://www.cascadeyarns.com/cascade-UltraPimaFine.asp seem as though they would work. I guess the question would be, would you rather the fabric be a bit more dense and stiff (use the thicker of the two) or a bit on the loose and drape-y side (use the finer version)?
Let us know if we can help or if you have any additional questions.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Thank you Laura- that explains it really well- I think I like the idea of loose and drapey plus found the colour I Iike in the UK in the fine so that’s all good. Wish me luck
Luck!
Sorry, but I do not understand with that number of needles I have to work. Thanks for the reply. Miriam
Hi Miriam.
I am so sorry, I do not fully understand your question.
I would love to help you.
Please write us back!
Thanks,
Laura
Thanks Laura, I realized what I had missed previously.
Miriam
bellissimo da fare assolutamente … grazie
Under “Graft backs and bind off for neck” it says:
“Working through the stitches on both the back and front needles simultaneously, use the left end of the longer needle to….”!
To what?!! The instructions end there, and then tell you what to do on the next row (purl 3, bind off 55 etc). It is written this way both I. The online version and the printer friendly version.
Hi Jamie.
I’m glad you wrote in. I think I understand why you’re stuck…
After the sentence telling you how you’ll be “Working through the stitches on both the back and front needles simultaneously…” and that you should “…use the left end of longer needle…” then you follow that line just below starting “Next Row…” for exactly what to use that left end of the longer needle for. And that is to…
Purl 3 (3, 6, 9, 9), bind off following 55 (57, 61, 61, 63) stitches purlwise for Back of Neck, purl to end. [6 (6, 12, 18, 18) total stitches; 3 (3, 6, 9, 9) stitches for each Shoulder]
Once you’ve completed that “Next Row” you’ll have grafted the backs together at the shoulders and bound off for the neckline.
Please let us know if you have any questions!
Thanks. -Laura
I have two skeins of Louet linen in dark blue. My thought was to buy another in a different colour, and knit the backs out of the dark blue and the front in the other colour… Any thoughts on how I could accomplish that?
Hi Ali.
Hummmm, interesting question!
Due to the construction of this top, I think the only way to get the backs to be one color and the front another would be to either 1) divide up the cast on and work the three portions separately and then seam them together later or 2) work the top in one piece as I did, but do it in intarsia somehow.
If you do it, I’d love to hear about how! Thanks for writing in. -Laura
Hi, Laura,
I have a question regarding the size of the needle. Are we working the whole top with size 3? I’m kind of confused.
Thank you,
Ana
Hi Ana.
Yes, the majority of the piece is worked on size US3 needles. Only the first couple rows are done on the larger needles.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I just finished making this beautiful tank in Cascade Ultra Pima cotton, size sml. I’m a relatively new knitter, but am very happy with the outcome. The instructions were clear and the comments here answered some of my questions.
My only suggestion for others would be to consider making wider straps if you are working with cotton. The finished garment is heavier than I expected and the straps seemed inadequate to hold the weight over several wearings. I decided to slightly shorten and hand-stitch the straps together to get the strength I wanted. It also provides more coverage for bra straps. Thanks for sharing this artful pattern!
My bust measures 35 inches exactly and want the tank to fit slim but not tight. Wondering if I could split the difference between the size 35 and size 39 by casting on 98 stitches, PM, then casting on 137 stitches, PM, then casting on 98 stitches? Thank you for this lovely pattern!
Hi Stacy.
Thanks for writing in.
98 + 137 + 98 = 333. 333 / 6 stitches per inch = 55.5. 55.5 / 3 * 2 = 37 inch bust! That would give you 2 inches of ease. So the math checks out!
This type of change though is going to lead to some heavy modifications once you reach the raglan shaping and working the neckline. If you’re up for changing all of that, then I say go for it!
Let us know if you have any question!
Thanks.
Laura
Hi Stacy ,
My measurements are almost exactly the same as yours – I’m considering doing the same thing, splitting the difference between the 35″ and 39″ sizes. How did it turn out? Which other sections you end up having to modify? I would love if it if you shared!!
Thank you so much!
I would like to make this a little longer as I am tall with a long torso. Maybe increasing the length will become clear once I start knitting. Do you have any advise about this before I cast on? I will be using the Louet’s Euroflax linen yarn. Thanks!
Hi Brenda.
To make this piece longer, you’ll want to work more short rows, so you’d begin…
With the larger circular needle, cast on 104 stitches, place marker (pm), cast on 71 (107, 143, 179, 215) stitches, pm, cast on 104 stitches. [279 (315, 351, 387, 423) total stitches]
Then you’ll work the remainder of the pattern as instructed.
Let me know if you have any questions! Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I, too, have a question about ease. I am a 33″ bust, and after perusing the project pages for this top on Ravelry, I am not sure if the 31″ or 35″ size is best for me. I read that the garment has a 2-4″ ease built into the pattern, but is that negative or positive ease? I would prefer a snugger fit over a loose fit. Any advice?
Thanks! I am swatching this with some raspberry pink silk and I’m really excited about this top.
Laura-Lee
Ha! Whoops. I just saw the “older comments” button and found the answer to my question. Thanks!
Hi Laura-Lee!
Glad you found the answer. Please let us know if you have any additional questions!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Almost done with the front and have followed the pattern so far. It looks great and so excited to finish. I am not sure how to to the arm holes. What is meant by picking up stitches? It seems like the arm hole get a finishing and edging by binding off which also connects both backs together. I just do not under stand how the stitches are made. Are the stiches at the arm hole egde just put on the needle, or is a new piece af yarn used? Does this go around the front of the arm hole also. It does say join in the round. Sorry, I am still learning and have not done this before, but almost done! Thanks for you help.
Hi Stacy.
Great question!
This is what I did to pick up stitches… I inserted my left needle one stitch in from the edge of the knit fabric, I then wrap my working yarn around my left needle as it to knit and pull that yarn through the fabric at which point I had picked up one stitch. I continued this process around the edge of the armhole, at the Back I was going through two layers of fabric, at the front I was going through just one. Once you had all the stitches on my needle, then I simply worked one round binding off knitwise.
Stacy, please write back in with any questions you may have. Picking up stitches can be tricky.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Hi, I just completed the ‘short row shaping’ and I’m starting on the ‘Divide front and backs.’ I’m making the size small and after the short row shaping, I have 221 stitches across in roughly a flattened trapezoid shape. I’m confused about the next step and I hope my question makes sense. It says to knit 105 stitches for back left then 105 stitches for front, then I would have 11 stitches remaining for the ‘knit to wrapped stitch.’ Which brings me to the end of the row. What are the remaining 105 stitches For back right?
Hi Sadie.
Thanks for writing in.
Do you have 221 total stitches? If you’re making Size 35 then you should have cast on a total of 315 stitches. But maybe you’re making Size 31 and you cast on a total of 279 stitches?
If it is Size 35, you can take 315 and divide it into 3 and end up with 105 stitches for the Front, for the Back Left and for the Back Right.
If it is Size 31, you can take 279 and divide it into 3 and end up with 93 stitches for the Front, for the Back Left and for the Back Right.
Let me know what size you’re working on and your total stitch count and then I think I’ll be better equipped to answer your question! Thanks again for writing in. I hope I can help you figure this out!
Laura
I would like to add short raglan sleeves. Would I knit like a bottom up raglan when I get to the sleeves? thanks.
Hi Kristina.
Thanks for writing in.
I would cast on at the bottom of the sleeve (where ever you’d want that to be) and work up to the underarm. Do the same for a second sleeve. Put them both aside. Work the body of the Tulip Tank and then when it comes time, attach the sleeves to work the raglan shaping!
I’ve been dying to make a long sleeve Tulip Tank in our Line Weight yarn. Let us know how this goes! And of course please write us back if you have any questions!
Laura
thanks for this awesome pattern!
can you clarify the way to work with the wrap/turn stitches during the short row shaping at the beginning? it says ‘purl/knit the wrapped stitch with its wrap’ – does that mean to pick up the wrapped stitch like the tutorial on short rows shows, or just purl/knit like normal?
sorry if this is dumb and thank you!
Hi Alexis.
This is a great question. I’m glad you wrote in.
I used the same technique that is described in our tutorial: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/06/18/short-rows/
Please let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
thanks so much that is a helpful confirmation! this is my first short rows project (its my first piece of knitting that isn’t a sock or a scarf) so bring on the handholding/wringing! thanks a lot
Does this pattern have a version with sleeves?
Hi Ria.
I am afraid it does not. I love the idea of this top with sleeves though and would love to work on one soon. Hopefully, one day. So many things to knit and so little time! Thanks for writing in. -Laura
I was in the store today to get yarn for a different project, saw this sample and had to get the yarn for this too (like I don’t have enough wips already!). Anyway just read through the comments with the hope that someone else had the same idea, but no luck. And maybe because it’s a really bad idea, but I’d love to get your thoughts. I’d like to switch the back and front, so have the fold in front and the longer bit in the back. Do you think this is doable? I think I’d have to change the neckline shaping? Shoulder shaping maybe? What do you think? TIA
Hello Janine!
That sounds really cute to switch up the sides! The Short Row Shaping in the pattern is in the front of the piece and intended for our womenly curves 🙂 If you want to make that the back instead, I would recommend taking out that section and just knitting it straight. Depending on your row gauge, you may want to make the back a little longer.
Keep in mind that the criss-cross side doesn’t have that shaping, so it may come out quite cropped. I say its totally worth a shot! Best of luck! -Alyson
Hi! I have some Fibra Natura Good Earth cotton/linen that I’d love to use for this pattern. Do you think that would be a good yarn to use? It’s thicker than the one you’ve used, so let me know what you think if you get the chance! Thanks x
Hi Danielle.
Thanks for writing in. I’m afriad the Fibra Natura Good Earth is going to be a bit thick for this projects unless you’re comfortable heavily modifying the pattern. If you’re curious about other projects that use worsted weight yarn and are well suited for the Good Earth, check out our gallery…https://www.purlsoho.com/create/tag/worstedaran-weight-yarn/ Thanks for your interest in the Tulip Tank and let us know if you have any questions. -Laura
Hi there!
Beautiful pattern.
I have quite a few skeins of blue sky alpaca sport weight but not enough (in the same colour) to make this pattern work. My questions are:
1. Would it be possible to have the back be a different colour? If so at what point should I make the change.
2. Would the yarn that I mentioned above work?
Thanks!
Inés
Thanks!
Hi Ines.
Yes! Blue Sky’s Sport Weight will work beautifully. It’ll have a totally different look and feel. I’d love to hear how it goes.
As for making the front and backs different colors… Unfortunately there isn’t a way to make the front one color and the backs another color without rewriting the pattern or working intarsia.The good news is that you could colorblock the piece so that the bottom is one color and then the upper portion is another. After working from the bottom edge up to the armholes, you’ll separate the piece into thirds… This would be a natural point at which to change colors. Or you could continue the front in the same color as the bottom and work the upper backs in a new color or vise-a-versa. Let me know if you have any questions about this!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
In the section “Shape Back Right” there is a direction letting you know how many stitches should remain: [87 (83, 93, 99, 95) stitches]
In all other places in the pattern, the small size direction has the least stitches. Is this a typo? Should the 83 and 87 be reversed or it this just a very special case?
Thanks!
Hi Rachel.
Thanks for writing in. It is a special case. It’s just how the math worked out after that first portion of shaping, but if you take a look at the following section of the pattern… you’ll see the smallest size once again has the fewest number of stitches: 71 (73, 81, 85, 87) stitches.
Let us know if you have any questions!
Thanks.
Laura
Laura,
I’ve finished all but grafting the armholes, and I’m sad to say I’ve knitted too tightly and it’s come out short! I’m afraid even blocking and stretching might not make it as long as I’d hoped… If before finishing the sewing up I picked up all the way around from corner to corner with the size 5 needle, could I add some length? I’m trying to think of whether I need to figure out short rows here to extend the shaping, or if I can simply knit and purl all the way around. Do you have any suggestions for a knitter who is obviously terrible at math/swatching?
Thanks!
Hi Rachel.
I have to admit I’m not sure I can predict how the fabric would react or how the garment would drape if you picked up along the bottom edge and knit down. Maybe work up a small swatch that uses equally spaced short rows, bottom up, and then pick up and work from the cast on edge down to see how it affects the piece. I’m really curious to hear about what happens! Let us know how it goes!!
Laura
Hi,
This is a stunning top! I’m a beginner knitter, do you think it’s suitable for beginners? I mean, so far I’ve knitted only scarves.
Another thing, I live in a hot humid country, so wearing knit in the summer is out of the question. I was thinking to make this top as a winter vest. What yarn can I use? I was thinking along the lines of 20% – 40% wool and the rest some natural fiber.
Hello Anna!
This top would be lovely for a warmer climate, so you’re right, it would be best in something heavier for the winter. I would try Blue Sky Alpaca’s lovely sport weight yarn found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/sport-weight-solids-melanges.html. Its 100% alpaca, but its super soft and very warm! Give it a shot!
Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
Hi, I’m very close to finish this top and now I’m stuck!
I’m not sure how to finish the Right and Left Armhole:
With the right side facing, using the shorter circular needle and beginning at the center of the underarm, hold the two Backs together to insert the needle through both Backs and pick up 1 stitch from each stitch along the entire armhole edge. Join for working in the round.
Bind off knitwise.
Do I pick up the stitches knitwise and the bind off knitwise by joining yarn? It would be great if I could refer to a video tutorial.
I can’t wait to try on the top once it’s completed!
Thanks.
Natalie
Hello, Natalie!
Thank you so much for writing in! Sorry about the very delayed response! You will be picking up the stitches knitwise. You’ll be pick up the stitches along the entire armhole edge then you join for working in the round.
Unfortunately, we don’t have a video tutorial for this pattern, but here’s what Laura, the creator of this pattern, wrote in an earlier comment regarding the Armhole section, I hope you find this helpful:
” I inserted my left needle one stitch in from the edge of the knit fabric, I then wrap my working yarn around my left needle as it to knit and pull that yarn through the fabric at which point I had picked up one stitch. I continued this process around the edge of the armhole, at the Back I was going through two layers of fabric, at the front I was going through just one. Once I had all the stitches on my needle, then I simply worked one round binding off knitwise.”
If you have further questions please let us know! Again, thank you for taking the time to write in, we truly appreciate it!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Hi Laura,
I’ve been wondering if it is ok to use Shadow Wrap method here instead of traditional Wrap & turn? Would that change the shape of the top?
Thank you 🙂
Mania
Hi Manuela,
Thanks for writing in and our apologies for the greatly delayed response! You can certainly use the shadow wrap method. The shaping of the top comes from the presence of short rows but the method by which you achieve them can vary. Let us know how it turns out!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
I’m a beginner knitter and I’m just loving it! This tank pattern is right up my alley being its basic knit and purling. I’m up for short row knitting but I need to see the tutorial. Each time I click the word ‘here’ it directs to me a page that says 404 not found. Can you point me the right direction to view your tutorial? Thanks a bunch!
Hi, Sandii!
Thank you for writing in! We are delighted that you are enjoying this project! I am sorry your having trouble with the tutorial link, we recently moved our blog over to a new platform and not all the links have been switched! You can find the short tutorial here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/06/18/short-rows/.
Again, thank you for your kind words!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Thanks for the quick response! Short row knitting seems easy and I’m anxious to get started after dinner tonight. Love the photos on the link, very helpful.
Hi,
Awesome top!
Any chance for a crochet pattern for it? I would love to make some in different colors but I’m a crochet “freak”
Thanks in advance,
Ioana
Hi Ioana,
Thanks for writing in and thank you for your kind words about our pattern! At present we do not have plans or the resources to do convert this pattern to crochet at the moment, but we will definitely keep it in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
I love this top!
With the wool I have, I get a gauge of 20 stitches x 27 rows = 4 x 4 inches (already on needle size #2). I have a 36.5 inch bust. I’m not entirely sure about the math: Could I basically follow the directions for the smallest size and just (for length) cast on slightly more stitches for the sides to do more short rows?
Thank you in advance!
Hi Anna,
Thanks for writing us and we love that you are interested in this pattern! Right now your stitch width is slightly larger than the gauge on our pattern. Your gauge is 5 stitches/in and ours is 6 stitches/in. I say you cast on for the 39″ bust, as this top will look better with some ease. If you’d like to add on more stitches to the 35″ bust, you certainly can but that does change the pattern, making it a bit more challenging. Good luck on your adventure!
Best,
Adam
Hi, your projects are so gorgeous. I want to try this one with some yarn that my daughter in law bought me for Christmas. It is Nako Vals 22 sts and 30 rows with 4/4.5 needles (not even sure if its mm or US- doesn’t say on label.??? Label is not in english) The yarn beautifully soft and a bit shining but it is variegated. What are your thoughts on that top with a variegated yarn? Honest opinion….THANKS
Hi Linda,
Thanks for your kind words! Nako Vals is a worsted weight yarn and 4/4.5 is referring to the mm gauge for knitting needles, which is equivalent to a US 6 or 7. This would change the gauge of your project and though it’s possible to still make the top, you will have to do a little math to make it work. I always suggest doing a gauge swatch, especially with a variegated yarn because you want to see how many stitches per inch you get and also how the yarn looks knit up. I believe if you like the way the yarn knits up, you could multiply your stitches per inch from the swatch by the chest size you desire to make and see which cast on number best matches (always go with a larger cast on amount for this pattern as it looks better with ease). I hope this helps! Happy knitting!
Best,
Adam
Will a bison/merino sockweight work for this pattern? Thanks!
Hi Vallire,
Thanks for writing us. The yarn we use for this tank is more considered a DK weight, so unfortunately a sock weight yarn will not work on this pattern without some reconfiguring and a bit of math. Good luck and happy knitting!
Best,
Adam
Hi there
Im a little confused with the pattern instructions. Probably very simple but …… Gah. Ok. So on the first wrp-t row (wrong side – purl) after I turn do i knit back on the stitches I just purled? If I do that then I cant move to row 2 which says knit to second marker as Im still on wrong side (purl row) If I dont knit back on the same stitches after Ive turned I cant knit to the second marker as its on my right side of needles.
Hope this makes sense and Im sure its something simple Im missing. Thanks Gab –
Hi Gabrielle,
Thank you for writing in. Wrap and turn is a way of creating more fabric in one area of the knit piece than the other. The curved shape of the front of this garment is achieved through short rows. You wrap the stitch on a wrap and turn because without this wrap there would be a hole in the knitting. In this pattern you will purl to the 2nd marker. This means you will purl 98 stitches, slip the marker and then purl however many the pattern told you to cast on for your size. Once you get to the 2nd marker you will do the wrap and turn maneuver and knit back to the next marker, which will be on your left. I hope this broke it down for you.
Best,
Adam
when in the purl or the knit short rows, are you working on the front piece only? Is the marker always on the left side? I understand the marker is always slipped and the stitches augment by one on each row passed the marker? I am hoping you are able to help my confusion.
thanks MT
Hi Maria,
Thanks for writing in! When beginning the short rows you will purl past the first marker and then slip the second marker and immediately wrap and turn after. Next you’ll knit to the second marker (marker farthest to the left) and wrap and turn after slipping that marker. Knit one stitch after picking up the wrap before wrapping and turning again. The wrap and turn happens on both the knit and purl side of the fabric in order to increase the amount of stitches in work evenly. I hope this makes better sense. Let me know if you still have questions!
Happy knitting!
Adam
I am an expert in crochet and have the basics of knitting. I guess I am just a little confused and don’t want to undo all the work that is already done. My question is as follows:
When you start working the short rows are you only working the section in between the markers?
Hi Ruby,
Thanks for writing in! The markers indicate where you will start short rowing and every row you will pass the marker and knit 1 stitch past the wrap (after picking up the wrap). By doing so you are working the center front more than the sides which elongates this section of the fabric. I hope I’ve cleared things up! Best of luck knitting this!
-Adam
Hi Adam,
I’ve read all the comments & don’t see my problem…I have completed rows 3 & 4 40 times, but have 58 stitches left on each side of the marker. The math seams right 40 wrapped and 58 to wrap = 98 st.; but the directions say repeat rows 3 & 4 48 times, that would mean I should only have 16 st. left on each side…HELP, what have I missed? Everyone else seems to be making a lovely top.
Thanks for your help!
Ann
Hi Ann,
Thanks for writing in. I’m sorry this top is giving you trouble! I am not sure what is going on exactly without seeing the top in front of me, but I can reiterate some important points. Just make sure you are picking up the wrapped stitch, knitting one and then wrapping and turning and not wrapping and turning directly after picking up the wrapped stitch. Also, make sure that you have the right amount of stitches in between your markers and outside of them. It’s always helpful to double count. Please let me know of any more details if you can and I’d be very happy to help you further.
Best,
Adam
Hello! Love, love, love this pattern. Can’t wait to start!
I measured my bust and am on the larger side of 35″. Would you recommend to just go for the size 35 pattern? Will there be enough ease or will I be wishing I made the 39 (which seems like it could be huge)? I definitely want it to fit snugly… Do you suggest me modifying the pattern? I’d love to avoid that if possible!
Thank you!
Hi Allie,
Thanks for the kind words! This pattern is a ton of fun! Especially if you love short rows! I suggest you find a top in your closet that fits as snugly as you want your project to fit and measure it at the chest 1″ below the armhole. Whichever of our sizes is closest to this measurement is the size you should knit. If your chest is 35″ dead on, then knitting the size 39 would mean 4″ of ease. This is actually not a lot of ease! Also, you don’t want the top to fit so tightly that it ruins your stitch definition. I hope you enjoy knitting this!
Best,
Adam
Not sure how, but I’ve managed to have 6 extra stitches on right hand edge with right side facing me. Do you have any suggestions as to how I might best incorporate those extra stitches before I begin shaping. I have 13 stitches beyond wrapped stitch on one end and 7 beyond the wrapped stitch on the other end. Currently headed toward (right side facing) the 7 stitches. Maybe purl two together or ssk after picking up the wrapped stitch 6 times on the next few purl rows?
Hi Claudia,
Thanks for writing in. I’m sorry you have ended up with some extra stitches! I think that you might have knit too far a few times on the right side after picking up the wrap. This could be why you have fewer stitches. You could purl 2 together but this would mess up the math in the pattern for shaping. I suggest you continue the short rows as normal, but when you run out of stitches to short row on the wearer’s right side, you’ll just knit to the end until you are finished with the short rows on the wearer’s left side. I hope this helps and good luck!
Best,
Adam
Question re: the yarn/fabric density: I am thinking of making this in the navy blue Euroflax. Because the mockup is in that beautiful pale grey against the pale mannequin, it’s hard to tell if the fabric is an “open” weave at all. Specifically, If I made it in a dark color, would skin show through the fabric–Either as is, or after wearing for awhile as the linen loosens up? (I don’t want that look where one can see the outline of my bra and/or have to wear a tank underneath it to get the look of solid navy.) Thanks!
Hi Kim,
Thanks for writing us! The original top’s stitch definition is pretty dense and you can really only see through it when stretching the fabric. I think that you should make a swatch to gauge and see if you like the density. If not, you can always go down a needle size or two to tighten up the fabric. This will require some math, as your gauge will change. I hope you enjoy knitting the pattern! It’s wonderfully clever!
Best,
Adam
I want to make something with Euroflax but I’m confused about gauge. This yarn really changes when washed. Do I knit up samples and wash them to get the gauge called for? Or does the gauge called for take into consideration the shrinkage and growth? Thanks.
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for writing us! The Euroflax is a beautiful yarn, but like all linens, it changes texture and shape over time. The best way to get a linen gauge is to knit up a swatch and wash it as you would when the finished garment is completed. If you plan on putting the top in the washer, then put your swatch in the washer too. For shrinkage, it’s best to measure the swatch length and width before washing and then after. This way you’ll get a good idea of the percentage it will shrink after washing. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Would love to turn this into a longer tunic length (low hip). Is this possible with the numbers from the lengthening numbers given in the July 6, 2015 comments post reply or do I need to add even more short rows to get more length? I don’t understand how to add length to this pattern. How many stitches need to transfer out of the middle section to the side sections for each inch in length? How will this affect hip width as I will need wider there than at bust? And is a “shadow wrap” a german short row?
Hi Ellen,
Thanks for writing in! The reply from July 6, 2015 is correct if you want to add length but doesn’t account for hip width. If you want to account for the hip width to bust width ratio I would start to decrease at a certain point to shape the garment inward, much like darts. To do this I would choose a shoulder to bottom edge length from the pattern and cast on that prescribed amount. Next you’ll choose a desired chest measurement and you’ll have to do the math as to when to start decreasing to get to that number of stitches by the end of your short rows. In regard to the short rows used for this we refer to the method on our website. You can see the tutorial here. Best of luck on the project!
-Adam
i just made this and figured out that the needle sizes are translated wrong. it should be US needle 4 and not 3 for the smaller needles. 3 seems to be too small for the yarn. What indicates 3 .75 mm and even 4 mm European. MY length of the garment came out wrong, far too long armpits. i later saw the measurements, and I didn’t alter the width, but started the deminishing of the front just earlier. it worked out ok, It is such an elegant top
Hi there!
Thanks for writing us! We knit this top on US 5’s and 3’s, but each knitter is different and might have to change up the needles depending on the pattern. I’m glad you liked the top either way!
Best,
Adam
Help! I am knitting away and I am concerned I made a mistake. Yikes! I am in the short rows section making the 43″ bust size. I followed the instructions carefully. Cast on 98 pm cast on 191 on cast on 98. I have followed the short row pattern and am working rows 3 and 4 the 48 more times it says. I am on row 39, so less than 10 rows to go until the next stage in the pattern. Except, the pattern reads that I will have 1 stitch remaining after the wrap stitch (I assume by the end of 48 rows) However, I still have 58 stitches left after the wrap stitch on row 39. Soo…what did I do wrong? Please help!
And love the linen yarn!
Jenny
Hi Jenny,
I’m sorry this is giving you trouble! Let’s try to figure it out. Firstly, you might be working the stitches in between the markers, which aren’t supposed to be a part of the wrap and turn. Only wrap and turn after passing the markers. Also, make sure that you are picking up the wrap, knitting or purling one stitch and then wrapping and turning again. This in between stitch is very important! Lastly, be sure that you are doing a wrap and turn and not a German short row, which would require some pattern editing. I hope one of these is the cause. Let me know how it goes and if you have any other questions!
Good luck and happy knitting!
Adam
I love this pattern, but I couldn’t get the gauge right. Once I got the number of stitches correct there weren’t near enough rows- I think about ⅔ of what there should have been. I loved the look so much I went ahead and knit the tank and it was way too short as expected. I learned a lot about some new techniques for me, so it wasn’t a total loss. Interestingly, I gave the pattern and yarn to my mother and she had the identical problem. Anyone else have similar issues? I think the way the tank is knit it would be difficult to adjust.
Hi Kara,
I’m sorry the pattern didn’t work out for you! If the top was too short, then I would eliminate a handful of stitches in between the markers and add that amount to the short row sections outside of the markers equally. This way you’ll be short rowing for longer and in turn increasing the length. If the armholes and backs fit ok, then I wouldn’t change those, but if you did have some fit problems you could try decreasing every 4th row instead of every 2nd depending on how off your row gauge is. Again, I’m sorry the top didn’t come out as you expected!
Best,
Adam
Hi,
Love the Tulip Tank Top. I’m attempting to using
Juniper Moon Farm Zooey and my gauge is 20 stitches and 32 rows for 4 x 4 square using a #3 needle. My bust is 36″. Given that my guage is bigger than the pattern guage I’m not sure where to adjust my math or if I can just make a smaller size. And since its a non- traditional shape will my short row gauge impact lenght and make the tank shorter?
Any help is welcome. Thank you.
Esta
Hello Esta,
I’m so happy you love the pattern! Your stitch gauge is larger but your row gauge is actually smaller. this means that you will have to knit more rows to obtain the correct length. To increase the length you will omit 7 stitches from each side from between the markers. This means that you will do the two short row repeats 7 more times to make up 1 3/4″ length you’ll be lacking from your row gauge. Now, for the stitch gauge, you’ll end up with a 42″ chest if you do size 35. Your best bet is to cast on for the smaller size and end up with a 37″ chest. The way I figured this out is dividing the chest stitches (93) by your stitches per inch (5), which equals 18.6″. This makes your total chest circumference approximately 37″. I hope this helps! Best of luck on the pattern!
-Adam
Thanks Adam! Appreciate your making it sounds so easy. I redid my gauge swatch with a smaller needle and hit the stitch dead on and I liked the blocked fabric better than the larger one. Still too short on rows of course.
So being an instant grafitication person I read some othe rcomments around making it longer and went up to 104 stitches on each side so there are extra short rows.
Will that do the trick? If not I’ll start over. Thanks!
Esta
Hi there!
Yes, extra short row stitches will work, but you might want to consider taking out an equal amount from the center portion that does not get short rowed so you don’t end up with a larger top. Best of luck and let me know how it turns out!
-Adam
Thanks, Adam!
Hello and thank you for sharing this beautiful pattern; it’s an exciting project for a beginner such as myself.
Silly question though: I only have 1 pair of size 4 24 inches circular needle . Do I absolutely have to buy the same size with the 32 inches diameter? I’ve decided to use 4 vs 3 as I tend to knit quite tight…
Thank you for your response.
Hi V,
Thanks for your question. I think you could get away with 24″. Your stitches might be a bit squished but it will work. Best of luck!
-Adam
Hi! I just got a Purl Soho gift certificate for my birthday (yay!!) and I’m interested in knowing if you think your new spun silk would be an appropriate yarn to use for the Tulip Tank Top? I’m pretty good and math and checking gauge, so I’m fairly confident I can work all of that out. Just wanted to see what you think about the drape of the silk and if it is appropriate for a garment with this type of construction.
Thanks!
Heidi
Hello Heidi,
Thanks for your interest in this pattern! I think the Spun Silk will work perfectly with this top. The drape is gorgeous on the Spun Silk and the top will end up a lot lighter and airier. Thanks again for writing in!
Good luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
Thank you Adam! I’m placing a order for yarn and will knit this over the winter so it is ready for spring. 🙂
Love this pattern so much! You are so talented!
I’m confused about the needle sizes
When do I use 3.25mm and when do I knit with 3.75?
Thank you
Hello, Martine!
Thank you so much for your kind words! You’ll cast on and work two rows of the pattern with with the 3.75 needles. Then you will transfer your stitches to the 3.25 needles and begin the short row shaping. Please let us know if you have further questions!
Best,
Kumeko
I’m at the point in the pattern where I am to shape back right. I’m knitting the smallest size. So I had 93 stitches remaining for back right. After repeating rows 1 and 2 ten times, your pattern says I should have 87 stitches left. Shouldn’t it actually be 71 stitches? Since in row 2 I’m decreases two stitches each time? So in total I’m decreasing by 22 stitches? Thank you.
Hi Gina,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I see where the confusion is occurring. You will be repeating the decreases 2 more times and not 10 more times. The row reads Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two (10, 11, 14, 22) more times. [87 (83, 93, 99, 95) stitches]. I apologize for any confusion. We felt that typing 2 twice would cause confusion here and wrote out the word. Repeating the decrease 2 more times should result in the correct number of stitches!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi, I am sure you will be able to answer this quickly. I am about to start making this for my sister in law – using Erica Knight linen. My stitch gauge is spot on but my rows are out (32!) – I am going to make the 35″ size. Can you just straighten out my thinking here as to how to cope with this?
Thanks
Karen
Hi Karen,
Thanks for the question. Have you wet blocked your swatch? This could stretch out the yarn and give you a closer row gauge. If you have blocked the swatch and still have too many rows, you can alter the pattern to adjust the height. After finishing the short rows, I suggest knitting a few rows flat so the bottom edge isn’t so cropped. Also, for the armhole I suggest adding a few more rows of stockinette to make sure your armhole depth is comfortable. You are not too far off from our gauge, but it’s just enough where you might need to add a few more rows. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Not sure if I did ever reply to this – but thank you so much for your help 🙂
Karen
You’re welcome! Hope everything worked out!
-Adam
Hi,
I am currently making this and it’s turning out well so far! For the straps would it be possible to make them a little bit wider? I am seeing a lot of comments that the garment can be heavy when finished so I want there to be a little more support up there. At the point where you graft the two backs at the neckline, could I just purl a few more stitches than what’s reccommended, bind off the rest of the row and then purl the remaining amount of stitches to match the first amount? I’m knitting the smallest size so maybe instead of purling 3 on each side purl 6 for more support. And then for the front of the garment knit the same amount on each side to match the back for grafting with the Kitchener stitch. Would this work?
Love this pattern!
Thanks
Hi Anya,
Thanks for writing in! Widening the straps presents a bit of a complication. It is possible that what you are proposing will work but My concern is that you may end up making the neck hole too narrow. If you only add 2 stitches to each shoulder, you should be able to avoid this but I would hesitate to do more than that. The other option would involve binding off less stitches along the arm holes but this will also change the look of the garment and require some reworking.
I hope that this clears things up a bit and let us know how it works out!
Cassy
Can I just check something (this anxiety is driven by the fact this is a requested gift knit for someone!!) I was looking for the answer to a question – which I found – but on skimming through I notice that 2 pieces of advice are given if you don’t meet the row gauge. First mine – knit some rows flat after doing all the short rows – which is what I am doing. But secondly – there is some advice (I had not seen before) about adding to the stitch count so working more short rows to add length? Is there any real difference – will the working extra short rows make a difference to the look?? (not that I am really going to do anything about it at the moment!)
Currently – the stitch fairy is playing havoc with my knitting. When I count up I have 315 stitches, when I count going along I have 314!! LOL
Thanks for you help – have to say I have loved the short row shaping 🙂
Karen
Hi Karen,
Thanks for the question! Either method will work for elongating the top. The short row method might change the actual shape of the bottom edge curve but this all depends on how many more stitches you add and how many stitches you knit before your first wrap and turn. As for the method you are doing, you will not want to knit too many rows in plain stockinette because this will create a sharper and sharper angle the more you knit. I am guessing that a half inch to an inch of stockinette after the short rowing will occur in a nice blended line. However, this portion will be hidden by the wearer’s arm, so don’t fret too much about it!
-Adam
Laura,
Can you please send me the instructions and picture for sewing the shoulders once you have finished knitting everything?
Thanks a lot,
Susana
Hi Susana,
Thanks for writing in! The detailed instructions for this lovely pattern and all accompanying images can be found above. If you would like to print these instructions, you can do so be following these instructions!
If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
HI CASSY,
I am struggling with the finishing folding which creates the armholes and neck opening when I fold my work bunches up and takes on a poncho-like shape. Each section is on a circular needle. I am hoping I didn’t miss a critical step.
Beth
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for writing in! Please email us a photo of your knitting to our email [email protected] and we can see if we can help you further from there!
All the best,
Gianna
You are a star – thank you for taking the time to put my mind at ease.
Karen
Hi
Could you send me a french version?
Thanks for your help
Sophie
Hi Sophie,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately, this pattern is only available here in English. An Italian translation, created by a kind customer, can be found on Ravelry (http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tulip-tank-top).
Thank you for your request!
Cassy
Könntest du mir bitte die Anleitung auf deutsch übersetzen?
Hi Bettina,
Thanks for writing in! At this time we are only able to provide our patterns and support in English. Thank you for your request!
Best,
Cassy
Okay so I blocked it and the length is perfect! Drapes beautifully. Wondering if it will hold the shape after I wash it again. The directions on the yard said to wash and tumble dry. Do you recommend putting it in the dryer?
Hi Whitney,
Thanks for writing us! Washing and drying this garment in the machine is fine because the linen does need to be beat up a bit to get softer. I would just make sure your ends are super-secure so nothing unravels. Hope this helps!
Adam
Hello!
Do you think this pattern would convert easily enough if I was to use your Cattail Silk instead? I’m hoping this will work for a 39″ tank top. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!
Thank you!
~Lisa
Hello Lisa,
Thank you for writing in! I think the Tulip Tank will be beautiful in our Cattail Silk. I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch before jumping in, but I say go for it.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi Laura,
I’m loving the pattern so far, I’m almost at the end of the short row shaping before moving onto the backs and I’ve noticed that I’ve cast on one too many stitches!
If worst comes to worst I’ll frog it but I’m wondering if you have any suggestions? Do you think I could just slip the last stitch off and tuck in the slack? for just one stitch with only two rows done on it, it seems like such a waste to start over at this point!
Thank you,
Rachel
Hello Rachel,
Thank you for writing in. Oh no! That is always a frustrating discovery. Unfortunately if you want the pattern to come out correctly you will need to frog it. If you wanted to cast off a stitch it might create a small bump. If you don’t mind this than go for it! It will probably only be noticeable to you. I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Hello,
First of all I need to say I TRULY love all that you do and how you portray it. I dream of visiting your store someday and maybe start a franchise here in Italy? 🙂
I quickly skimmed through all the comments and found that you advise against using german short rows in this pattern as it would require modification: german short rows are the only short rows I am comfortable with.
By modification do you simply mean that we have to take into account always knitting an extra stitch before “turning and wrapping” (as the gsr method requires) or does the method simply not work? Being a process knitter I have started and am moving along with the gsr method: will I regret this at some point 🙂 ?
HI Sarah,
Thanks for writing in and apologies for the delayed response! You certainly can use German short rows here, you will just need to modify the pattern a bit. If you are doing German short rows, you’ll want to knit to the german short row, pick it up knit-wise or purl-wise depending on which side you are on, knit/purl 2 stitches, then german short row.
I hope that this helps and thank you so much for your kind words!
Cassy
Just finishing the Tulip tank – as I started grafting the shoulders, I realized that the armholes are short as is the lenght – about 3 inches too short – the gauge is right on.
Even if I block it, it will still be too short.
I am a farily experienced knitter, and feel confident that I followed the instructions accurately.
Have you heard this from anyone else? Is there an errata?
Hi Ellen,
Thanks for writing in! Oh dear! We have not heard this issue from others who have knit this pattern. Are you getting row gauge as well as stitch gauge? If you are not getting row gauge, you can add additional rows between each decrease row in order to lengthen the arm holes.
I hope that this helps and please do not hesitate to reach out with any further questions!
Cassy
I am loving my tulip tank so far. I am at the part of shaping back left. The directions say to follow instructions for shape back right. It does not say to reverse them and I want to be sure before I get too far. Thanks, Sherry
Hi Sherry,
Thanks for writing in! I can clarify! There is no need to reverse the shaping for the left side as the shaping is even and works for both sides!
Best,
Cassy
I love this pattern but am not sure the back will work for me – the front is gorgeous – is there a way I could modify the back to not have the opening?
Hello Bri,
Thank you for writing to us. It is always inspirational to hear new ideas like this! Unfortunately the crossed back is central to the way this top is constructed so it might be a little tricky to lengthen/eliminate it. You could experiment with eliminating some of the short rows or even doing something completely deferent with the body and just keep from the under arms up. I hope this information is helpful. Let us know how it goes!
Warmly,
Marilla
Thinking this might be my next project! Would it work in the cattail silk?
Hello Elena,
Thanks for writing us! I think this would be beautiful in cattail silk. I would still, of course, knit up a gauge swatch before jumping in.
Let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Is there a bind off you recommend for the armholes? After picking up all the stitches, I tried a regular bind off and it seems to either just lay flat in sections or roll inside. Thanks!
Hi Debbye,
Thanks for writing in! We used a standard pass over bind off here. Based on your description, I would try using a slightly larger needle to bind off the armhole stitches! This may help out with the issues that you are experiencing.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I made this top but it seems longer on the right than the left. That what it looks like on your site. Is that right? Thank you, Karen
Hello Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! This top is designed to be the same length on both sides. I crosses in the back, but each side should knit up the same. I hope this helps!
-Marilla
Hi there,
I’ve just finished all the short rows, and have divided the stitches for front and backs; however, I measured the length and am 1.5″ short of the 14″ measurement from bottom of armhole to bottom of top. I read about the 2-4″ ease, but to be honest I’m not sure what that is. What does an ease mean?
My gauge is correct stitch wise, but I had about 3 too many rows to fit 4″.
I’m well aware that linen “grows” as you wear it, and would be happy to leave my project as is if I can block it out to the proper measurements, but I’d also more than gladly restart and work more short rows as someone else did previously as I gathered from pursuing the comments.
Thank you so much!
Hey Stella!
For this pattern it asks you to knit with 2″-3″ of positive ease. To do this you take your chest circumference and add 2-3″ to that measurement. So if someone had a 33″ chest circumference they would probably choose to knit the 35″ size!
I hope this helps!
Carly
Thank you Carly. My bust measurement is 36″, should I make the 39 size?
Also, my gauge is short row wise, how can I get my finished piece to be longer?
No problem Stella! 39 is perfect! I would definitely go with that size.
I think that your gauge issue might prove to be a bigger problem later on when your piece is finished. Have you blocked your swatch in water yet?
-Carly
Hi Carly,
Yes. I just knitted anther gauge to make sure I’m using then correct measurements. After I washed and pressed by swatch, it seems that I have 24 sts=4″ (correct for gauge) but have 36 rows=4″ which is much smaller than the gauge. I’ve never come across a problem like this before, what can I do to overcome this problem?
I am so sorry to be such a pain, thank you for your help! Just to confirm, my bust size is a 36″ but my bra size is 34″, so I should make the 39″? I’d like the top to fit more loosely (and drape as lovely as it does in the photos!)
Thank you again
Hey Stella,
maybe try to size up your needles one more time and see if that is a little closer to gauge! Row gauge is important for the yoke of the top so I would try to get it as close as possible.
Keep me posted if it works out!
Carly
Hi There!
I am stuck on the part where I bind the front and back pieces together. I can’t seem to figure out how to knit with 2 needles in the left hand! Do you have a tutorial or anything to help?
Thanks!
Hi Melyssa,
We have a tutorial explaining how to do a 3-needle bind off which may be helpful to get an idea of how to knit with the 2 needles in the left hand.
3-Needle Bind Off
I hope this helps!
Carly
Love this beautiful tank! I just finished the Top & Bottom top — my first top! — so I’m feeling confident and want to try another. Would this work with the Field Linen?
Hello Magdalena,
Thank you for reaching out and congratulations on finishing your first top! This top would knit up beautifully in our Field Linen.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi there,
I’ve read all the comments on this pattern and I am confident that my question has not been addressed. I’m not using the exact yarn called for, so I’m going to declare that from the very start. I’m trying it in a superwash merino, to get some warmth in it (I live in Canada).
I made a gauge swatch, and the stitch count is on. I tend to be a loose knitter, but I noticed that the cast on is far too generous for the size I’m aiming to get into. Is it possible that the pattern shrinks as you knit up the back panels? I measured the front, and it is 5″ larger than needed, even with the positive ease. Should I frog it and start over with the correct number of cast in stitches, or leave it as is and hope it isn’t too big?
Thanks!
Vanesda in Toronto
Hi Vanessa,
Thanks for writing in! The cast on for this lovely top will seem quite a bit bigger than normal. This is because you will be working short rows to create more fabric in the middle (front) of the piece. The cast on edge will draw up and create the diagonals across the back. Thus the measurement will be from the back under one arm, down and around the front, back up the other side of the back and to the other under arm. There fore, for the smallest size, the cast on should measure 46 1/2 inches, far larger than you would expect for a 31 inch bust!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Thank you so much! I realized this as I kept knitting. It was still too large a gauge, but now I can see how the garment is shaped.
Vanessa
Hello,
I am working on starting the short rows section of this pattern, and I am confused about one part. For the very beginning of the short rows, am I knitting only the section between the two markers?? The pattern makes me think that I’d go from the beginning to the second marker, and then all the way back to the beginning, but I am unsure.
Thanks for your help!
Brooke
Hi Brooke,
You are basically knitting back and forth between the markers, slipping the markers as you go to do the wrap and turn.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
I am a novice knitter, so this might be a silly question. When you say you slip the markers, are you doing the wrap and turn on the stitch with the markers? Or just slip that stitch to the other needle and wrap and turn the next one?
thanks! this site has been so helpful for learning techniques : )
Hi Alex,
Thanks for reaching out! In the case of this pattern, the markers are not attached to stitches but are rather between stitches. They help to let you know where a certain section begins or ends. When you slip markers in this pattern, you will move them from the left needle to the right needle, maintaining their position!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello!
I am thinking of doing this pattern as my next project, but before I start, I have a question. I was wondering if you think it is possible to knit sleeves on this top to make it a sweater with how the armholes are set up in this pattern. I love the pattern, but I live in Canada, and its a bit too chilly up here this time of year to wear a tank top.
Thanks for your help!
Lydia.
Hi Lydia,
Thanks for writing in! While we do not have directions on how to add sleeves, if you are feeling adventurous, you could certainly give it a go! The arm holes here are not quite standard so you may have to do a bit of trial and error to figure things our. You could pick up stitches around the armhole and do a short row sleeve cap and then continue with the sleeve down to the wrist or you could try knitting sleeves from the cuff up and then sew them in. We do not have tutorials on how to alter patterns in this way but there are a lot of resources out there on the internet that may be of help to you!
Alternately, you could wear a really great, long sleeve top under this lovely sweater, styling it almost as a vest!
Best,
Cassy
Is there a yarn in Anzula I’d be able to use for this top? I’d like something that can be thrown into the washing machine and that’s my go-to brand. Thank you!
Hi Katrina,
Thanks for writing in! The closest equivalent in Anzula is Anzula Cricket. It is a bit thicker than the Euroflax that we used here, coming in at 5 stitches per inch instead of 6. I do think that you could get gauge with Cricket but your fabric may be a bit less drapey. As always when substituting yarn, I would suggest knitting a gauge swatch to ensure that you like the fabric at the required gauge.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
I can’t remember if it’s this top or the short row sweater, but would Ultra Pima work? Is it in the same boat as Cricket and a bit thicker than the yarn used? I remember using it for a wedding gift (blanket) and loving the color and feel. Thanks for your help.
Hi Katrina,
Thanks for writing in! Cascade’s Ultra Pima should work here as well. It is a touch heavier but you should be able to get gauge using it! The Short Row Sweater should also work with Ultra Pima. It is quite lovely and the drape is quite nice as well!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
How many yards of yarn is required for small and medium size? Thank you!
Hi Katrina,
Thanks for writing in! For this lovely sweater, we use sizing based on finished bust circumference rather than small, medium, large. We feel like this allows for a better fit in the end. To select your size, measure around the fullest part of your bust and add 2 to 4 inches and choose the nearest size. For instance, if your chest measurement is 39 inches, you will add 2-4 inches for a result of 42-44 and you would select the size 43. For sizes 31 (35, 39, 43, 47), you will need 634 (740, 848, 960, 1076) yards!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Just finished this in Cattail Silk. Second size took me almost a whole skein (I have a walnut-sized ball left). It was a little tricky to get gauge but it’s beautiful.
Hello! Thank you for making this beautiful pattern available. Can you advise whether it would work with your Linen Quill?
Hi Hannah,
Thanks for writing in! Although Linen Quill is a bit lighter weight than the Louet Euroflax we used for this top, I have actually knitted a sweater out of Linen Quill at this exact gauge and it does result in a lovely soft and drapey fabric! You will have to knit and block a gauge swatch and may find you have to change your needle size to obtain the correct gauge, but I think this is a great idea!
Best of luck and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Does it matter which side (back left or back right) you choose to leave on top when you graft the two together?
Hello Josephine,
This is a great question! The instructions say to fold the right side in first. The rest of the pattern will assume that is what you have done, and therefore give instructions with that assumption so it will be easier for you to folow the rest of the pattern if you put the left over the right.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello!
I’m knitting the top, that I love so much, to my daughter.
The size I choose is 31, with cotton yarn and needles size 4mm.
I am at the “shaping back right” and I am with doubts
When I divide 93 to the shaping back left, the same st. to the front and the same to the shaping right back.
The decreases suggested are 1+10 times, i.e. 22 sts decreased.
But the instructions says 87 sts remaining.
I think must be 93 -(11×2=22) 71
“Row 2: K2, ssk, knit to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two (10, 11, 14, 22) more times. [87 (83, 93, 99, 95) stitches]”
Can you help me please?
Thank you very much
Ana
Hi Ana,
I think I can help! When you start this set of instructions, you do begin with 93 stitches, and then work rows 1 and 2, so you have 91 stitches. You will then repeat rows 1 and 2 only two more times so you have 87 stitches – it is a bit confusing since the number two is written out and the numbers inside the parentheses are not, but since you are knitting the smallest size, you will always be following the instructions that are numbered just before the parentheses.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I am still in the short rows section of the pattern. It makes sense to me that you would keep repeating rows 3 and 4 until there is one stitch left on either side of that section. However, when it says “repeat rows 3 and 4 forty-eight more times,” I get confused because I’m thinking that is only going to be forty eight rows. Or is it 96 since you’re repeating 2 rows? Am I overthinking this? Help!
Hi Beth,
Great question! For this step, you will be working rows 3 and 4 48 times, for a total of 96 rows.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’ve just finished this top but it came out really long! Is it because I changed from W&T to German short rows somewhere in the knitting process?
Thank you! I’m planning to try again.
Hello Martha,
Thank you for reaching out! You can use German short rows here, you will just need to modify the pattern a bit. If you are doing German short rows, you’ll want to knit to the german short row, pick it up knit-wise or purl-wise depending on which side you are on, knit/purl 2 stitches, then german short row. Does this make sense? How long did your top come out to be? It could also be a row gauge issue.
I hope this is helpful and let me know if you have any more questions!
-Marilla
I would like to venture into my first clothing am picked this since it seems fairly simple and has no sleeves. Is there anyone attempting to start this project now?
If you’ve made it what does the different size translate to in clothing. For example is the 31 inch a size 2 or 4 in womens?
Hi Cecilia,
Thanks for reaching out and great question! For our patterns we use actual chest measurements rather than number sizes. This is because there is little standardization of these number sizes with each clothing company using different standards. By using actual body measurements, we think that you can get a better and truer fit. Here you will want to measure the fullest part of your chest and use this to help you decide on your size. For this pattern we recommend 2 to 4-inch ease. So if your full chest measurement is 39 inches, you would add 2-4 inches to get 41-43 inches and choose the size 43!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thanks that helps a lot!!!
I finally gauged myself. After trying four needle sized found that US 7 gives me 4 inches with that I think I can start.
I need help. I’m starting on the body- I understand it’s the middle piece. On the wrap is it suppose to make a square ? Also on picking up the stitches. Do you pick it up as soon as you wrap and turn ? I’m a bit confused and need help to take off on the project.
Hi Cecilia,
Thanks for reaching out! This tank top is knit in just one piece, so you the short rows are worked across the front and back pieces at the same time. I’m not sure what you mean by a square, but as you work the short rows, the hem of the sweater will start to slope upwards on both sides, creating a trapezoid shape. There aren’t any stitches to pick up, so I think you may be referring to knitting the wrap together with the wrapped stitch. You can see how to do this in our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn tutorial!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thanks your answer helped. And knowing you are there in case I get stuck is comforting. I’m progressing.
Hey there Cecilia, I noticed you’re beginning too! I am trying this as my first adult knit garment. I’d like to hear how yours turned out, if you’ve finished?
Gabrielle,
I am doing well, I am four rows from finishing the back pieces. I will bind them together tomorrow. Then I start with the front. I wish I could add photos. If you want to I can share photos. Where are you with your project?
I have been working on the tulip top with Euroflax yarn and am quite concerned with how THIN and stringy it looks in comparison to the photos supplied with the instructions. Specifically, the photo shown under “GRAFT BACKS AND BIND OFF FOR NECK” shows what looks like wool instead of the Euroflax. I understand there is magnification on the photo but mine looks nothing like this.
Actually, at times the Euroflax is almost like knitting with sewing thread.
Is the one you show in the instructions really made from the Eurflax yarn? It looks completely different from mine. I am an experienced knitter and am using needles #3 as instructed.
Please advise. Many thanks!
Hi Dori,
Thanks for reaching out! We did use Louet Euroflax for our top, and it is a fairly thin yarn. If your fabric is coming out significantly lacier and looser than ours, I would recommend checking your gauge. It is certainly possible that you might need to use smaller needles than we did to achieve 24 stitches and 28 rows to four inches! Also, in most of our pictures, the garment has already been blocked, which changes the character of the yarn quite a bit.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I made a swatch and I’m getting very close on the stitch count (23) but my row count is probably closer to 32. Would it be better to go up a needle size, re-swatch and then perhaps work a size up depending on the stitch count? I worry about trying to add rows to this pattern since there are so many wrap and turns, but I also don’t want the garment to be “see thru” and the swatch stitches on the size 3 needle were a nice density. Thank you!
As a note, after I made the second swatch I washed, dried and compared the two, they weren’t much different. I found that I was able to stretch the swatch a bit after drying to get the correct row count. So I may stick with size 3 needles and give it a shot. Let me know if you have another suggestion. Thanks!
Hi Paige,
Thank you for writing in! Your row gauge will be important in the yoke of the garment, so you’ll want it to be as close as possible to what’s called for in the pattern. I recommend sticking with the size 3 needle since you mentioned enjoying the density of that fabric, and adding some small modifications to your pattern to account for the difference in your row gauge. Some places you can add additional rows are before and after the body shaping to make up for lost length, as well as between each decrease row on the back/front of the yoke in order to lengthen the arm holes. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
Hi!
I was just wondering why the two back pieces are not joined together as soon as the short row part is completed and then shaped as a single back piece. Wouldn’t that save yarn and time? I’m almost half way through knitting the pattern holding one strand each of two shades of yellow cotton and I am really pleased with the result so far!
Keep on with the good work!
Hi Alessandra
Thanks for writing in! The two crossed back pieces help keep the top looking more petal-like and drapey. If you joined the two sides and worked them as one, it would take less yarn but some of the design elements and shape might be lost. I’m so glad you’re enjoying the pattern and I hope this helps!
Happy Knitting
Jessica
I love this and made my first one in euroflax. I’m deciding on the yarn for the second one. Your gauge is for the smaller needle. Do you have a gauge suggestion for the larger needle? Thanks Beth
Hi Beth
Thanks for writing in! The gauge for this pattern is for the smaller needle, and the larger needle is only used for casting on and the first few rows. If you change to a size 5 needle, the gauge of your project will change and you will have to do some math to make it work. I suggest doing a gauge swatch, to see how many stitches per inch you get and also how the yarn looks knit up. I think if you like the way the yarn knits up, you could multiply your stitches per inch from the swatch by the chest size you desire to make and see which cast on number best matches (always go with a larger cast on amount for this pattern as it looks better with ease). If this seems like too much, this top would look great in Field Linen or the Cattail Silk . I hope this helps you out!
Happy knitting
Jessica
I would like to practice Japanese Short Rows with this pattern. Do you think it would work. How would the pattern be modified ?
Thanks
Hi Felicity,
Great question! Yes, this pattern should work well with Japanese Short Rows! We don’t have a tutorial for that technique unfortunately, but, similar to German Short Rows, to substitute them in a pattern written for wrap and turns, all you have to do is knit or purl one extra stitch instead of the wrap and turn, and then turn and place a marker for the Japanese Short Row.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I’m about to start knitting this cute top. Question… what is supposed to follow the … below (from the GRAFT BACKS AND BIND OFF FOR NECK instructions).
Working through the stitches on both the back and front needles simultaneously, use the left end of longer needle to…
Hi Maureen,
Thanks for writing in! After the ellipsis, you will simply knit the next row in the pattern, which is right below this line!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Can you use German short rows instead of the wrap and turn method?
Hi Jessica
Thanks for writing in! You can certainly use German short rows here, but you will need to modify the pattern a tiny bit. If you are doing German short rows, you’ll want to knit to the german short row, pick it up knit-wise or purl-wise depending on which side you are on, knit/purl 2 stitches, then german short row. I hope this helps and happy knitting!
Best
Jessica
Hi! I’m attempting this top as my first real project, and I’m having a bit of trouble. For the armholes, should I be picking up the legs of each existing stitch of the armhole or should I be pulling new yarn through each stitch to make new loops before binding off knitwise?! There are tutorials for both online! Thanks in advance!
Hi Shefali,
Thanks for writing in! For this top, you will use the method we show in our Picking Up Stitches tutorial, which requires using the yarn to create new stitches, rather than just picking up loops from the edge of the work. In most knitting patterns, the phrases “pick up stitches” and “pick up and knit stitches” are often used interchangeably and almost always refer to this same technique. On rare occasions, you may have to pick up loops directly from the edge of your work, but this is much harder to do and usually turns out a bit messy, so unless a pattern specifically calls for that method, it’s safe to assume that you can use the technique in our tutorial!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thank you so much! Sometimes I wonder if I shouldn’t have just stuck to dishcloths…!
Hi Shefali,
You are most welcome, and don’t give up hope! Knitting a garment for the first time is a huge learning leap, and with all these new skills, I’m sure your next one will go much more smoothly! We’re always here to help if you run into any other questions!
Best,
Julianna
Hi! I think Shefali is asking the question I also have about working the armholes in the tulip tank. I sense there may be some missing information in the pattern directions. It says: “pick up one stitch from each stitch….” Does this mean pick up one stitch from the selvedge of each back piece? It then says “Join for working the round,” but I’m not sure what I’m joining, and what I’m binding off. The tutorial you suggested indicates that I’m adding yarn loops to the selvedge: should I bind off those loops knitwise? The rest of the pattern made sense to me (hooray for you all!). It’s just this last part that is confusing me. I’m afraid the image in the pattern illustrating the directions is a little too light to see vividly and clearly. Many thanks for your clarification!
lisa
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! So basically, you are picking up 1 stitch from every stitch around the entire armhole edge, you will then join the work in the round as if you are to start knitting in the round, but instead of knitting you are simply going to bind off all of the stitches, starting by k2, passing the first stitch over the 2nd (this should lock the yarn in place for the first stitch) you will then repeat this, binding off, till you reach the last stitch and then pull the yarn through the last stitch to finish.
To ensure that the yarn you used to pick up stitches doesn’t unravel you will want to make sure to leave a long tail before picking up the first stitch. Once you finish binding off all of the stitches you will weave in all your ends!
I hope this clears things up, happy knitting!
Gianna
i am confused here too.thanks for asking
Hi there! Finally attempting this pattern with beautiful sport weight cotton that I’ve been holding onto for a while (shibui knits fern). I’m a crocheter and am just getting into knitting.
I knitted up my gauge swatch and I’m needing to know if the swatch was supposed to turn out 4×4 square? Or is the 4 inches the length or the width?
Thanks!
Hi Barry,
Thanks for writing in, and welcome to the exciting world of knitting – hopefully it is a smooth transition thanks to your crochet experience! When knitting a gauge swatch, for the best results, you should cast on and knit more than the amount you will be measuring or the number given in the pattern’s gauge measurement. Everyone’s selvage or edge stitches tend to turn out a bit distorted, so you should try not to include them in your gauge measurement. For this pattern, I would recommend casting on 30 stitches and working about 5 inches in stockinette stitch. You can then measure a 4-inch square in the center of your swatch, excluding the edge stitches and cast-on, and count how many stitches and rows there are for the most accurate gauge measurement possible! If you have too many, that means your gauge is too tight and you need to go up a needle size or two until you have achieved the correct gauge, or if you have too few, you need to go down a needle size or two.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am excited to start this tank. I am planning on using Ella Rae’s Rustic Silk. Several others, on Ravelry, have used it. My question is whether or not you alternated skeins for this project. I see no good place to carry the yarn.
Hi Sharon,
Thanks for reaching out! No, we did not alternate skeins for this top. Usually that is only necessary to blend together hand dyed yarns or different dye lots, so it wasn’t necessary in the solid colored commercially dyed yarn we used, and unfortunately I don’t see a great place to do so, either! You might be able to change skeins at one of the sides, almost as if you were creating a false side seam, up to the armholes, and then change at one of the armhole edges for the separated backs and front.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Is there any way to make this have short sleeves? If so could you please have a sleeve pattern? Thanks!
Hi Sienna,
Thanks for writing in! We don’t currently have instructions for adding sleeves to this top, but I will pass your request along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Hi. I am knitting this beautiful top. I have finished shaping back right. Can someone point to me if it is possible to lengthen this part by continuing stockinette stitch till desired length?
Hi, I have leftover yarn in Burnish from knitting the Asymmetric Wrap. Can I use Burnish yarn for this project? Thanks!
Hi Caroline,
Thanks for reaching out! You could certainly use Burnish for this tank top! I recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to insure that you are consistent with the pattern. Our tutorial All About Gauge is an excellent resource to use!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
This might seem silly but I am confused. After completing back right shape, where do join for the back left? Thank you in advance.
Hi Micki,
Thanks for reaching out! After you complete the Back Right Shaping, you won’t join it to the Back Left section right away. You’ll need to work the Back Left section first. Once you’ve completed the Back Left (without cutting the yarn), then you’ll lay the piece out with the wrong side facing you and overlap the two sections. There are some helpful photos and descriptions if you scroll down to the pattern’s OVERLAP BACKS section, that might help clear the join up!
I hope this helps, but please let me know if you have any other questions about the joining section!
Warmly,
Kelsey
I’m nervous about this pattern but anxious to start!
I’m being picky here but want to be sure: when it says “larger” needle and “smaller” needle, it means #5 and #3, according to the pattern, right?
Hi Kathie,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct, the larger needle refers to the US 5 needles and the smaller needle refers to the US 3 needles!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am planing to start a project with this beautiful pattern but with cotton instead of linen. I wonder if I should assume that the top it will shrink and therefore, choose a bigger size.
Thanks for your help and for this gorgeous pattern.
Hi Ofelia,
Thanks for reaching out! I would say this would depend on the yarn you end up using, some cotton yarns will shrink and others may be pre-shrunk and won’t shrink at all! I would suggest making a swatch with the yarn you are using and wash/block it as you would with the top to see if it shrinks and how much it shrinks. Based on that, you can then select either true to the size of your measurement or size up one!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi, I’m working on this pattern and am in the short rows section. I am confused a bit because it says to work the short rows 48 times, leaving one stitch after the last wrapped stitch. However there are 98 stitches there, so how can it be after 48 short rows there is only one stitch left? Am I misreading something?
Hi Marcella,
Thanks for writing in! I am happy to help, what size are you making? so that I can help explain further!
Looking forward to your response!
Gianna
Thank u for sharing this pattern. It is the 2nd biggest knit project I have attempted. Parts were hard for me to figure out but rereading the instructions and reading people’s questions helped me and I am proud that I did figure it out ! The arm hole really stumped me but thanks to your clear answers to Shefali and Lisa, I got it !
Hello,
I have a long torso and wondering if there is a suggested way to make this top a little longer than 14″?
Hi Margaret,
Thanks for reaching out! To make this piece longer, you’ll want to work more short rows, so you’d begin…
With the larger circular needle, cast on 104 stitches, place marker (pm), cast on 71 (107, 143, 179, 215) stitches, pm, cast on 104 stitches. [279 (315, 351, 387, 423) total stitches]
Then you’ll work the remainder of the pattern as instructed.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Gianna
Hi,
I started this project and had to frog it and am now definitely overthinking this but I wanted to clarify:
When you are starting the short rows, and you’re knitting/purling between the markers, is the start of project in the middle or are you going between the markers the other way?
Another way of asking this is it says “purl to second marker.” Is that the second marker you placed, or are you passing a marker until you reach the second one?
Thanks so much!
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for reaching out. At this point in the pattern, you’re working flat, so you’ll start the first short row from the edge. When knitting/purling the first two short rows, you’ll knit/purl past both stitch markers and then work the wrp-t! Hope this helps clarify things.
All the best,
Lili
Excited to start my first garment project! I was curious what cast on method was used. That part will make up the back right?
Hi Mayumi,
Thanks for reaching out, we’re thrilled that you’re getting ready to start your first garment! For the Tulip Tank, we’d recommend using a long-tail cast-on (we have a great tutorial here, if you’re unfamiliar with it!). The cast on for this lovely top will seem quite a bit bigger than normal. This is because you will be working short rows to create more fabric in the middle (front) of the piece. The cast on edge will draw up and create the diagonals across the back. Thus the measurement will be from the back under one arm, down and around the front, back up the other side of the back and to the other under arm. Therefore, for the smallest size, the cast on should measure 46 1/2 inches, far larger than you would expect for a 31 inch bust! If you run into any questions about the construction as you work, remember that you can always reach out to us at [email protected] for additional assistance!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hi there!
I need some help, I can’t seem to understand how to do the armhole parts. For either armholes, of course haha Do you have a photo of the armholes ? Or any other way of explaining? I just don’t know what to do and it’s the last thing!
Please, help! 🙁
Hi Gabriela,
Thank you for your questions! The armholes are constructed by picking up all armhole edge stitches and then immediately binding them off knitwise in the round. The armhole edge stitches you are picking up consist of the armhole ends of the two back pieces. So, for each new armhole stitch, you pick up one stitch from the two back stitch panels held together, therefore “sewing” together the back panels while also finishing the armholes in a polished bind off edge.
I hope this helps! Please don’t hesitate to reach out if this is still unclear. You can always send in photos of your work to [email protected] so we can get a better feel for how things look on your end!
Best,
Margaret
Hi. Which Purlsoho yarn would you recommend? The pattern suggests two yarns which are no longer available. Thank you.
Hi Melissa,
Thank you for writing in! Cattail Silk or Santolina would make great alternatives for this pattern! I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hello! I am a little confused about this pattern, rows 1 to 4 say:
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to second marker, slip marker (sm), wrp-t (see Special Instructions).
Row 2 (right side): Knit to second marker, sm, wrp-t.
Row 3: Purl to wrapped stitch, slipping markers as you come to them, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p1, wrp-t.
Row 4: Knit to wrapped stitch, slipping markers as you come to them, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1, wrp-t.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 forty-eight more times (at which point just one stitch remains after the wrp-t on each side).
~~
First question- when I wrap and turn, do I head back the way I came? If so, then how would the last 1/3 of the row be knit?
Second question- when I wrap and turn, do I knit on the way back or purl? In other words, Do I knit to the beginning of the row, or do I start row 2 right there and the second marker becomes the first one?
I guess my understanding is that you are knitting the middle first and then moving to the sides, but that seems incorrect based on the photos!
Hi Timma,
Thanks for reaching out. It sounds like our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn tutorial might be very helpful! I’d recommend giving that a look over, and I think it will clear up all of your questions. I can also answer them here: First, because these are “short” rows, you only knit part of the row and not the final portion after the wrp-t. This creates the shaping of the garment. Second, because this is still in stockinette stitch, you will always knit when the right side is facing you and always purl when the wrong side is facing you. You will count the markers as you pass them, regardless of which side of the fabric you’re on. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Unlike other purlsohos, this pattern is very difficult to follow. Please send diagrams of how the Overlap Backs is done.
E.g., the “cast-on corner”? What is that?
-“meets the left underarm at the point where you divided Front and Backs”? Are they physically separate in order to do this?
I am so frustrated I will have to return all materials for a refund, if you cannot provide direction for this. I’m a 92 yr old, experienced knitter who has found other Purlsoho patterns easy to interpret. Sorry to say, the multitude of somewhat repetitious photos are not that helpful.
I look forward to your help.
Hi Evelyn,
I’m so sorry to hear that you have been struggling with your project! I’m here to help!
It looks like you are at the point where you are folding your shirt up to graft everything into place. In the directions for the Overlap Backs section, it says to align your back right “cast-on corner” with the left underarm. It would be easier to visualize this part of the directions as making an “X” at the back of your tank top with the back left and back right panels. Your goal is to line up the top corners of the “X” with the armpits and the bottom corners of the “X” with either side of the cast-on row. You will know that everything is lined up if the top of your “X” is perfectly squared with the bottom corners!
I can definitely understand how having a labeled drawing can help make this process more clear, so if you’re still having trouble visualizing how to align everything, I would encourage you to email us at [email protected]. From there, we would be happy to send you a diagram of the back right and back left folding over the center front.
I hope that this explanation helps in the meantime, but we’ll keep an eye out for any other questions!
All the best,
Carly
I am looking forward to casting on this project. I’m curious as to why it is cast on to larger needles and then almost immediately moved to smaller ones.
Hi Karrie,
Thanks for reaching out! The larger needles are needed for the first few rows of the Tulip Top to ensure that the cast-on edge is loose and stretchy enough. Linen doesn’t tend to be a very stretchy fiber, so a loose cast-on is important for a finished garment that fits well.
I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Many thanks!
Sadly, after doing swatches, I am not getting anything close to the gauge. Given the lack of flexibility in the pattern for this, Im not sure what to do. On 3.5mm needles, I am getting 27×37, and on 4mm needles 26x 30. Im leaning toward knitting on 4mm needles, but have seen some comments about challenges putting it all together if the gauge is not right. So two questions:
a) do you think this will work? Do you think I need to go up a size?
b) if I knit it on 4mm needles, I should presumably cast on 4.5?
Hi Karrie,
I’m sorry to hear that it’s been difficult meeting gauge for this pattern! I’d actually recommend swatching again with larger needles (4.5mm needles would be the next ones to try!) to see if you can get 24 stitches and 28 rows. If you haven’t already, you can also try blocking your swatches! You may be able to gently pull the edges of the swatch on the 4mm needles so that the gauge reaches the gauge of the pattern.
All the best,
Lili
Hi, is the graphing backs+ bind off of the neckline a 3 needle bind off? It doesn’t say specifically but I was reading it as such. I was just kind of confused which 3 needles specifically it is asking for. I wish there was a full picture not just a close up of that section. 😕
Hi Jen,
Thank you for your question, though we’re so sorry there isn’t a more helpful photo of this step. Grafting the backs together is very similar to a three needle bind off, however in this pattern, it is just done purlwise instead of knitwise! The “third” needle in this place is the opposite end of the longer pair of circular needles (currently holding one of the BACKS).
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I have made a mistake on the beginnings of this top. All has been going well until this and I have googled everything trying to give me a solution. I need to send you a photo, is that possible? I’m at a standstill for the time hoping for a cure but also know that I may have to just start over. I will be adding safety lines in the future 🙂
Thank you
Hi Deb,
Thank you for reaching out. We’re so sorry to hear that you’ve run into roadblocks with your project and are eager to help however we can! Please feel free to send us a photo of your work at [email protected] and we’re more than happy to assist you further there. Also, we offer free 1-On-1 Help Zoom sessions as well in case you’re interested in meeting with a member of our team regarding your questions! You can sign up for a session here: 1-On-1 Help!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
Thank you so much!! I was able to figure this out on my on.. yay!! Took me all day looking at it and then walking away but it finally clicked and I’m back to knitting. Good to know you’re available if I hit another roadblock.
Thanks again, Deb
Hi Deb,
You’re very welcome! I’m so happy to hear your project is back on track! Thank you again for your comment and hope you have a great rest of your day!
All the best,
Cat
If I understand this correctly, I will K-P w/wrap all remaining stitches except for the last at the end.
(Repeat Rows 3 and 4 forty-eight more times (at which point just one stitch remains after the wrp-t on each side).
Next Row (wrong side): Removing markers as you come to them, purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p1 to end of row.)
Please correct me if I’m wrong
Thank you, Deb
Hi Deb,
Thanks for reaching out. On Next Row (wrong side), there will only be one wrapped stitch! That’s because you’re been working the previously wrapped stitch on each repeat of Rows 3 and 4. So on Next Row, you can purl normally until the wrapped stitch, purl that wrapped stitch with its wrap, and then purl normally to the end of the row. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi there. I’m confused by a certain point in the pattern. After casting on and then working rows 1 and 2, there’s a change to the smaller circular needle, but because after this you work short rows, are both needles still in use? Or do you transfer all stitches to the smaller needle before starting the short rows?
Thank you!
Hi Sally,
That’s a great question! Because of the short rows, I would recommend completely transferring your stitches to the smaller needles before starting them. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Sure does help, I thank you.
Hello again. Help! I’m at the grafting of backs + bind off for neck, but I’m sure I’ve made a mistake. I’m doing the third size, and on the longer needle I’ve got 6 purls on each end with 61 bound off in the middle, but I failed to do the same with the stitches on the other needle. Can you help me understand how to fix this? Would I undo the 6 purls, unbind off the 61, undo the other 6 purls, then correctly do the graphing with both needles? Thank you.
Hi Sally,
Thanks for writing in, although I’m sorry to hear that you’ve reached a stopping point in this pattern! I’m a little confused about what’s causing the problem though. Would you be able to send a photo of your work to [email protected]? That way, we can visualize exactly what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you, Lili. Yes, I will send a photo later today, and I might also schedule a 1:1 — so grateful for that resource.
Hi again. I’m almost finished! But I’m confused at the point of armholes. I still have stitches on a needle for, I think, what looks like what I’m calling the “front back” because the back seems to have two sections. After picking up stitches at armhole, is this where I bind off the many stitches I still have on a needle? And can you define “the center” of underarm? Is that at the bottom, below the shoulder? Thank you!
Hi Sally,
Very exciting! When you pick up the stitches for the armhole, you should be picking up each stitch from both the “front back” and the “back back” in order to join the together (and then on the front, there’s only one layer, so you can pick up these stitches as normal). Once you have new live stitches all the way along the backs and the front, then you can bind off all of these stitches! And the “center” of the underarm is the bottom.
All the best,
Lili
Gah! What a horrible pattern. Gone wrong at the first step. An awful lot of cast on stitches. Also, would like to print this out for ease of following but no pdf without images. Does such a thing exist? Thanks.
Hi Sally,
We’re so sorry to hear that this pattern has been frustrating so far, and we’re eager to help! Since you mentioned that one issue is the large cast-on, I wanted to pass along a handy tip to make those long cast-ons less stressful. When casting on, place a stitch marker every 10 or 20 stitches. That way, you only have to count up to a smaller number each time, and this also makes it easier to re-count your stitches before beginning to knit. Just make sure to remove the stitch markers on the first row!
And here’s how to get a printer-friendly version of any of our free patterns: If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, just click on the “Print” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window!
I hope this helps, and please don’t hesitate to let us know if you have any other questions or concerns.
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I am about to start this top but have a question about sizing.
I have quite a long torso and wanted to know if it’s possible to adjust the pattern to make the body of the top longer?
Thanks!
Hi Eleri,
That’s a great question, and there is a way to make the torso longer! If you look at the short rows, you’ll notice that on each one you’ll work the wrapped stitch with its wrap, work a normal stitch, and then work a wrap + turn. These short rows extend all the way through the body, up until you divide for the front and back, but you can add more rows by omitting the normal stitch you work in between each wrap! So instead of working this stitch and then working the wrap + turn, just work the next wrap + turn immediately after working the previous wrapped stitch with its wrap.
Because this modification changes the slope that the short rows create, I’d recommend saving it until you near the end of the short rows! That will create a more gentle and consistent slope to the sides of the body. Once you’re on the final few repeats of the short rows, you can start omitting the normal stitch between wraps on each row. This will allow you to fit more rows (and therefore add more height) before dividing the front and back.
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili
Can u recommend a super wash yarn that might work for this project? Thanks!
Hi Evan,
Thank you for writing in! While our Field Linen is machine washable, Cattail Silk and Santolina could also make great alternatives for this pattern! I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I’ve just started on the Body section of the pattern, working on the short rows using the 35” chest circumference number of stitches. Counting ahead, I don’t understand how I’ll end up with only one stitch remaining on each side as it looks more like I’ll have at least 50+ left on each side!Please explain.
Hi Ann,
Thanks for writing in! Can you let me know if you’re making sure to work an additional stitch right after working the previous row’s wrapped stitch with its wrap and before working the wrap + turn? There should be one plain stitch in between these things! Omitting this stitch will lead to a lot of extra stitches on each end, so I want to make sure you’re taking it into account. Let me know, and then we can go from there!
All the best,
Lili
Hi there! I was curious if the Purl Soho Blackbird linen would be a good alternative for Euroflax?
Thanks,
Cassie
Hi Cassie,
Thank you for writing in! Cattail Silk or Santolina would make great alternatives for this pattern. Blackbird linen is just a little thicker than what is required for this pattern. I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Ok! Thanks for the good info.
Cassie
hey! it would be difficult to explain it for me but i’m at the point of overlapping the back, and i can’t understand how do i do it. the knit parts of the back are facing me when i do it according to the pattern. meaning the purl side of the inside of the back is facing the knit side of the other part of the back. that can’t be right, but what am i doing wrong?
Hi Sofya,
Thank you for writing in although we are sorry to hear you are running into issues here. Could you please send a photo of your project to [email protected] so we can have a deeper look? We’ll be able to better visualize what’s going on that way!
All the best,
Gavriella