Short Row Sweater
As a young child, I remember my wonderfully elegant grandmother wearing her cardigans backwards with the first couple of buttons undone, creating a soft V dipping down from her shoulders. As an adult I turn to her back-revealing style still, as I love wearing her summer frocks from the 50s with cutouts that reveal the small of my back.
The Short Row Sweater is my autumn ode to the grace and distinction of a bit of bare back. Knit in one piece, this wrap of a sweater is a half moon shape, folded around to create a sweeping crisscross in the back. I used the superlatively soft Blue Sky Sport Weight Alpaca for its draping ease and classic simplicity.
I have thrown on this sweater with jeans and flats for some of my last outdoor brunches of the season. At night, I’ve worn a silk camisole underneath it. And I know that in just a few more short weeks, I’ll be pairing it with a long sleeve nautically striped tee. Even layered, the crossed back adds just the right amount of feminine frolic to my step! -Laura
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoShortRowSweater. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 5 (6) skeins of Blue Sky Alpaca’s Sport Weight (100% Baby Alpaca). I used color Natural Taupe #505, a Sport Weight Solid, but the Sport Weight Melanges would work beautifully too! (Update: We no longer carry Blue Sky Alpaca’s Sport Weight but think our Season Alpaca would make a lovely substitution! For this pattern you’ll need 3 (4) skeins for the appropriate yardage and please remember to check your gauge!)
- A US 5 (3.75 mm), 24 inch or 32-inch circular needle
- A US 5 16-inch circular needle
- 1 set of US 5, double pointed needles
- 2 Stitch Holders
- 2 markers
- Scrap Yarn
Shop our wonderful collection of sport-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
Gauge
6 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch
Sizes
Sizes: XSmall/Small (Medium/Large)
- Finished Chest Circumference: 34 (38) inches
- Length from Center Front Hem to Back Neck: 19½ (22) inches
Notes
You will work a large portion of this piece in short rows. You work back and forth, turning the work part way through each row instead of continuing to the end of the needle. For a great Short Row Tutorial, click here!
Pattern
Begin
With the longer circular needle, cast on 306 (342) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 (RS): *K2, P2, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
Row 2 (WS): *P2, k2, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measure 3/4-inches from cast on edge.
Right Side (RS): K171 (K189), wrap and turn.
Wrong Side (WS): P36, wrap and turn.
RS: K36, knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, K1, wrap and turn.
WS: P38, purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn.
RS: K40, knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, K1, wrap and turn.
WS: P42, purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn.
Continue in this pattern, working up to the wrapped stitch, working the wrapped stitch with the wrap picked up, working one more stitch, wrapping and turning. Ending with a RS row.
WS: P178 (P214), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn.
Separate for Armholes
RS: K42 (K54), place last 6 stitches on a holder, K102 (K114) place last 6 stitches on a holder, K36 (K48), knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, K1, wrap and turn. (99, 111 stitches for Right Back. 6 stitches for each Underarm. 96, 108 stitches for Front. 99, 111 stitches for Left Back. This count includes all of the stitches on your needles, not just the stitches you have just worked. This count adds up to your Cast On number.)
Work the Right Back
NOTE: The Right Back is worked over just the next 99 (111) stitches with the row ending at the stitch holder.
WS: Purl across until you reach the stitch holder, turn your work.
RS: Knit to the wrapped stitch, knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, K1, wrap and turn.
WS: Purl.
RS: Knit to the wrapped stitch, knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, K1, wrap and turn.
Continue in this fashion. On the RS: knit up to the wrapped stitch, knit the wrapped stitch with the picked up wrap, K1, wrap and turn. On the WS: Purl. Ending with the WS row, purling across 96 (108) stitches.
RS: K96 (K108), knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, K2.
WS: Purl.
Cut the yarn. Place all 99 (111) stitches on scrap yarn.
Work the Front
NOTES: Before working the Front, place the Left Back stitches (the 99 (111) stitches to the right of the right stitch holder if RS facing) on either scrap yarn or your 16 inch circular needles. For the Front section, you will be working the 96 (108) stitches between the two stitch holders.
With the wrong side facing, join yarn and purl.
RS: Knit across.
Continue working in stockinette for 5 more rows, ending with a WS row.
Neck Shaping: the Front Right Side
RS: K45 (K51), bind off 6 stitches, knit to end. (90, 102 stitches)
Place the first 45 (51) stitches you knit on to scrap yarn or add them to the Left Back stitches on the 16 inch circular needle. (45, 51 stitches remain for Front Right Side)
WS: Purl across row until you reach bound off stitches.
RS: Bind off 4 stitches, knit to end. (41, 47 stitches)
WS: Purl.
Repeat previous two rows two more times. (33, 39 stitches)
RS: Bind off 1 stitch, knit to end. (32, 38 stitches)
WS: Purl.
Repeat previous two rows five more times. (27, 33 stitches)
Work in stockinette until the right edge of the Front matches the length of the Right Back, ending on a WS row.
RS: K27 (K33), place marker, then knit across the 99 (111) stitches of the Right Back stitches. (126, 144 stitches)
Cut yarn.
Neck Shaping: the Front Left Side
Note: You will now be shaping the Front Left Side of the neck, working 45 (51) stitches you previousl placed on hold. (If you haven’t already, you can place the Left Back stitches on to scrap yarn, or if they don’t bother you, you can work the Front stitches with the Left Back stitches on the needle.)
With RS facing, join yarn and knit knit until you reach the previously bound off stitches.
WS: Bind off 4 stitches purlwise, purl to end. (41, 47 stitches)
RS: Knit.
Repeat previous two rows two more times. (33, 39 stitches)
WS: Bind off 1 stitch purlwise, purl to end. (32, 38 stitches)
RS: Knit.
Repeat previous two rows five more times. (27, 33 stitches)
Work in stockinette until the right edge of the Front matches the length of the Right Back, ending on a wrong side row.
Cut yarn.
Either place these 27 (33) stitches on scrap yarn, or keep them on the needle, being careful not to confuse them with the Left Back stitches you are about to work.
Work the Left Back
NOTE: You will now be working the 99 (111) stitches of the Left Back of the sweater.
With wrong side facing, joing new yarn.
WS: Purl to the wrapped stitch, purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn.
RS: Knit.
WS: Purl to the wrapped stitch, purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn.
RS: Knit.
Continue in this fashion. On the WS: purl up to the wrapped stitch, purl the wrapped stitch with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn. On the WS: knit across. Ending with the RS row, knitting across 96 (108) stitches.
WS: P96 (108), pick up wrap and purl together with wrapped stitch, P2.
RS: K99 (111), place marker, then knit across the 27 (33) stitches of Front Left Side. (126, 144 stitches)
Do not cut yarn. Keep this ball attached, you will use it to pick up stitches for the neck line later.
Fold the Sweater
Place the 27 (33) stitches from the Front Left on a double pointed needle, removing the marker.
Place the 27 (33) stitches from the Front Right on a second double pointed needle, removing the marker.
Fold the Right Back behind the Front so that the edge aligns with the end stitches on the double pointed needle.
Fold the Left Back behind the Right Back, aligning their top and side edges.
Attach the Right and Left Backs
Holding the two circular needles parallel, with the wrong side facing, join yarn and purl across both needles at once. Here’s how…
With yarn in front, use the longer circular and insert the needle purlwise into the first stitch on the back needle and then into the first stitch on the front needle. Purl the stitches together, pulling the needle back through both the front and back stitches.
The folded back sides of the sweater are now attached along their top edge. There are 99 (111) stitches on the longer circular needle.
Cut yarn leaving a 20 inch tail.
Lay the sweater flat, front side facing.
Attach the Front and Back
First attach the Front Left Side and Left Back. Hold the double pointed needle and circular needle parallel. With a threaded tapestry needle, use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the front to the back.
Next, flip your work so the back of the sweater is facing. Hold the circular needle parallel with the double pointed needle. With a tapestry needle threaded with the 20 inch tail you left, once again, use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the back to the front.
Transfer the remaining 45 stitches to your 16 inch circular needle.
Pick up for the Neck
With attached ball of yarn and circular needle that is holding the 45 back of neck stitches, pick up 99 stitches evenly around the Neck. (144 stitches)
Place a stitch marker and working in the round, work in 2 x 2 rib for 4 rounds.
Bind off in 2 x 2 rib pattern.
Cut yarn.
Pick up for the Armholes
With the 16 inch circular needle, join new yarn and knit the 6 stitches from the underarm stitch holder. Then pick up 86 stitches evenly around the Armhold. (92 stitches)
Place a stitch marker and working in the round, work in 2 x 2 rib for 4 rounds.
Bind off in 2 x 2 rib pattern.
Repeat for second Armhole.
Weave in your ends. Block gently. You are finished!!!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
What a stunner!
Adding this to my To Make list, for sure!
this is very lovely! Once I get over the 324 stitches at the beginning….
This is amazingly beautiful and geniously desingned!
I H.A.V.E. to make this! So beautiful!
beautiful! I would love to see what this looks like being worn!
Love the look of this sweater! Is there any way to adapt this pattern for those of us with a smaller bust size, like a size 32? Any help with this dilemma would be great! Thanks.
I love this sweater! Just wishing size XS was included in the pattern. I'd love to make it but am afraid the small would be too large for me!
Sara and Kris… Thank you so much for your interest in the pattern. I will add XS sizing tomorrow! –Laura
Are the finished measurements actual sizes or to fit that bust size with built-in ease? Do you know the yardage for the medium in case of a yarn substitution?
LOVE this!! Thank you!
Sara and Kris… the pattern now includes sizing for an XS. Hope you enjoy making this as much as I did. Thank you again for your support! –Laura
Erin P,
The sample that I knit up is the medium size. I do not have the sweater right now, but I will weigh it and let you know approximate yardage as soon as I can. In the mean time, I know I only used, at most, 1/4 of the 6th skein. I think that 600 yards will have you covered for the Medium!
Thank you for commenting! –Laura
Erin P, Sorry I forgot to mention the sizing… The dimensions given are those finished sweaters, after blocking. I have a 36″ bust and knit the Medium (38″) to fit me. The 2 inches of ease are to let the alpaca drape and also provide room for layering. I hope this helps! –Laura
Love this pattern, have already cast on!
One question though, should it read 108 or 198 before you start working the armholes?
Thanks!
Hi Laura – Huge fan!
I've started this sweater today and I'm using Eco Alpaca from Cascade and it's knitting up great. I am having a bit of confusion of what to do right before separating for the armholes. I'm going to send you an email.
Hello Laura, I've been knitting your pattern and have just finished the “begin” section but my garment length looks way too short to be starting the armholes – its only about 5 inches at the longest point. I've read the instructions several times and am convinced I've done everything correctly so far. Can you help me understand what I might be doing wrong? It seems like I'd need to be knitting more than 108 stitches (size small) to have the body of the garment long enough to start the armholes. perhaps this is a typo and I actually need to knit 180 stitches? Help!
totally had to cast on for this! before the “separate for armholes” section, how many inches should the small size be from the middle of the cast on edge (center front hem) to the stitches on the needles? i feel like i only have a few inches and the picture looks like there is way more length before separating for the arms. somehow i'm probably doing the short rows wrong….sigh!
thanks………..
I think I've figured it out… Before the “separate for armholes” step, the last instruction should say: “WS: P180 (P198, P216, P234), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn” instead of: “WS: P102 (P108, P114, P120), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn.” Is this correct?
Hi! Love this pattern! Am knitting it just now but have a question about the separating for armholes step that would be better thru email. To whom can I email my question? Thanks!!!
Hi Kristen-
You can email it through the “Ask Purl Bee” link here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/ask-purl-bee/
Or we are happy to answer it if you post it here as well.
Thank you!
Mel. Hang in there. You are probably doing it all right. Did you see the corrections in the last line of the Begin portion of the pattern. This might just fix the problem. And as for the length, it does seem short when you are working it, but after blocking you should have about 4 inches under the armhole, give or take, depending on the size you are making. –Laura
Kelli Ann and Kristin… Thank you both so much for commenting and pointing out the typo at the end of the Begin section of the pattern. I have corrected that last WS row instructions. Kelli Ann, I believe you will need to P178 before working the wrapped stitch, purling 1 more and then wrapping and turning. The following row you will, cumulatively, knit 180 stitches before working the wrapped stitch, etc. Thank you both again. I do hope you end up enjoying this project! –Laura
I love this! I have a few skeins of this yarn in different, but compatible colors. Do you think this could be done in more than one color yarn? I'm trying to figure out how, based on the construction, that could work.
You keep serving the good stuff!
What's the wear ease on this sweater? I am somewhere between a 36 and 38. How should I pick my size and also, what books would you recommend for custom fitting knits? Thanks!
thank you so much for those corrections! I had started knitting this without refreshing the browser, and couldn't figure out how to end that first section!
(I ran out and cast on as soon as I saw this pattern! Loving it so far!)
Lourina, Thanks for writing. There is about a 2 inch ease. I believe the Medium or Large would fit you. Depends on how much layering you intend to do with this piece. I find Interweave's Knitwear Design Workshop to be full of useful information: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/7184-Interweave-Press-Knitwear-Design-Workshop Also, I am a huge fan of Ann Budd's books, especially her two Handy Books of Patterns: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/4-knitting-crochet-books?filters%5B%5D=245
Hope this helps. Thanks again. –Laura
Hey Meredith. I totally think this could be done in different colors. Color blocking or stripes could really emphasize the unique structure of the sweater. You could take the finished dimension length and divide it by however many colors you have, getting X, and then switch yarns at the beginning of the row every X inches. The cast on and ribbing will all be one/different the same color, but that could be beautiful, it framing all the other colors. –Laura
So I am just coming to the end of the beginning section and have a question, because by my count (which could be the problem in itself) I reach 216 stitches on the RS (I'm making the medium).
Is my count just off, or do I knit 216 and then purl the same amount to finish the “Begin” section?
Thanks! This is my first sweater and I am enjoying it so far!
Hi Kristen. I am so happy you are enjoying the sweater. For the 2nd to last row under Begin, your RS row should be to knit 212, pick up wrap and knit it, knit 1, W&T. Then on the WS purl 214… that 216 number was a typo. Thank you so much for writing in! –Laura
I am so excited about this pattern and yet have been so disappointed with the errors and the explanation. My daughter in France sent me the link in UK and yet the division for the armholes does not work mathematically. Perhaps I am misunderstanding your instructions. I really need clearer details of the initial RS number of stitches in stockinette and then the correct number of stitches to be purled on the WS with the wrapped stitch. I have knitted this 3 times and always when I get to the armhole division, the Front is not in the centre.
Are you able to help me with this please??
Hello Jill. I am so sorry for any frustration. As for Separating for Armholes…
At the end of the first row under Separating, a Right Side row, the goal is to have 99 (105, 111, 117) stitches for Left Back, 6 stitches for Armhole, 96 (102, 108, 114) stitches for Front , 6 stitches for second Armhole and 99 (105, 111, 117) stitches for Right Back. This count includes all of the stitches on the needles, not just the stitches you have recently worked. If you add these stitches up they equal 306 (324, 342, 360), the number you originally casted on.
I do hope this is helpful Jill. Thank you for commenting. –Laura
Hi Laura,
I'd love to make this for a size 32 bust. I assume I'd cast on 288 stitches, and do the math for this size in most of the steps. But after the first set of rib stitches, it looks like you have a set number to wrap and turn. Should I assume I should follow as is (p36, k36, etc.)? Thanks so much!
Hey Ila, You are exactly right, after the ribbed edge, every size starts their W&Ts the same way, working 36 stitching. Enjoy. -Laura
Hi! I've got the right needles and the right kind of yarn (swatchy swatchy! Third time's the charm!) and now I really want to cast on, but I'm debating whether to do a tubular cast on or just a regular long-tail one. I would really appreciate your advice… I do so look forward to making this! It's so lovely and I want to wear it to Christmas parties!
Hi Lauren,
I used a long tail cast on! Hope you enjoy the pattern. –Laura
hi laura! so glad to be able to come back and read the thread of posts… i too have run into a bump upon coming to the last row of the 'Beginning' before the armholes. my count in the Right Back and Left Back is not correct. and now, reading your response to Kristin (11/18) about the '216' typo may help me to get back on track… need to 'tink' a couple of rows and am going to keep my fingers crossed that the 'count' gets back on track!
just wanted to check in case there are any other corrections in the pattern? love this little sweater… hoping to finish it to wear for Christmas next week! Thanks, Laura!!
Barb… if you are making the XSmall or the Medium the pattern is a-ok! Sizes Small and Large need to be re-worked. I am going to try and get it all fixed up over the holidays.
Deepest apologies for all the confusion. I adore this sweater and I do hope it is working out for a few of you. I am sure I have caused several of you to want to pull your hair out, or maybe mine. Again, I am so so sorry. –Laura
Are there any updates to this pattern? I've been trying to knit a Small, and I keep coming up with either 194 or 198 to purl on the WS at the end of Begin. Is it me or the pattern?
Renee, I will try and get them posted by the end of the week. Thanks for checking in. –Laura
Hi – I am confused about pattern instructions. I have just completed this step in the Begin section:
“WS: P42, purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn.” Then, the pattern reads, “Continue in this pattern, working up to the wrapped stitch, working the wrapped stitch with the wrap picked up, working one more stitch, wrapping and turning. Ending with a RS row.”
How do I know how long to “continue in this pattern?”
I must be missing something because no one else in the comments thread has brought this up.
Thank you for your help,
Genevieve
Any updates on the pattern for size small?
Renee- I have restructured the pattern a bit. The original Small and Large patterns were developed after the prototype was first knit. Unfortunately, mathematically, these sizes did not work out the same way as the XS and Medium. I have edited the pattern to only include the working sizes. In other words… it's not you, it's the pattern. Several people have made the Small and Large sizes and just improvised as they went. If you have any questions please feel free to email. Apologies for any confusion or delays. Best – Laura
Hi Laura,
I love your sweater! I just started to make the medium, but the number of stitches to cast on is 342 and this is a multiple of 2 instead of 4 like the others, so the 2×2 rib at the beginning isn't working out. What am I doing wrong? Thanks, Victoria
Victoria, You aren't doing anything wrong. You found an error. Goodness. Thank you for writing in. You could either do a 1 x 1 rib or you could start with a k1, then (p2, k2) til their is 1, k1. Hope that helps. Thanks again for writing in. -Laura
hi Laura!
sorry be to be another person asking a question, but as far as i can find there are only two sizes of this pattern xs/s and m/l. am i confused? i really want to make the xs (if it exists) since that's the closest to 32″ and ravelry and comments above here make it sound like there are definitely four distinct pattern sizes. where are they? i feel like a crazy person right now.
thanks,
Laura
we have the best name btw 🙂
Laura, never apologize for writing in! Where would we be without you readers!! The sweater originally had 4 sizes. The original Small and Large sizes were eliminated due to some irreversible mathematical problems. The original XS is now the XS/S. 34 inch circumference was as small as the pattern came/comes. Hope this is helpful and thank you for reminding me to change the notes on Ravelry! Let me know if you have any other questions. –Laura
Hello- Such a cute sweater! I see that you have the gauge as 6 stitches to an inch.. I was wondering how many rows to an inch? (I've noticed on ravelry that a lot of people's projects are quite a bit shorter than yours.) Thanks!
Dear Purs-Soho, here is yet another Russian translation of the pattern – http://irishagold.blogspot.com/2012/02/lauras-loop-short-row-sweater.html
Thank you so much!
Hi Alice. When I was stitching this sweater the row gauge was approximately 7 to 7 1/4 rows = 1 inch. The sweater is now on display at the shop in SoHo so I asked the girls there to double check for me. They came back with 7 1/2 rows = 1 inch. Alpaca is beautiful and heavy fiber. The sweater will bloom and stretch a bit lengthwise over time. You will notice right after a gentle blocking even. Hope this helps. Thanks for writing in. -Laura
Hi Laura! I love this sweater, but because I have sensitive skin and trouble wearing alpaca or wool, I was thinking about making this in Cascade's Ultra Pima cotton, which is the same weight and gauge. Do you think that would work fine? If not, do you have any other suggestions? I can also wear blended fibers fine, like Blue Sky's Alpaca Silk, and some superwash wools. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thank you!
-Jessica
Ps, the pattern is beautiful.
Jessica, thank you for the kind words. I am so glad you like it! I think the Pima would be just lovely! It drapes unlike any other cotton I have seen. I was recently thinking of trying it in a linen, but I think maybe you have the right idea with the Blue Sky! -Laura
I have read all of these posts, but my problem is that I think this is going to turn out too long. I have measured the length at 21 inches and I believe I will have to keep knitting another 22 rows to achieve the goal of 214 stitches. I have measured the stitches and all appears accurate. Should I just start over? I love this pattern so much that I have purchased three different yarns to make 3 different sweaters. Thanks Nadia
Hi Nadia,
Hummm, you are the first one to have that issue with this pattern. How interesting. I have to ask… you're gauge is right? This pattern is based on stitch counts for it's construction. If you are on gauge, even if you rip it out and start over, I feel you will run into the same problem, unless you begin your short rows farter from center (that initial K171 (K189) and then P36 which is 18 stitches the past center of the front).
Let me know if you decide to rip it out and start over, we can figure out a different place for you to start doing your short rows.
Laura
I did rip it out, and I will try it ONE MORE TIME, if it happens again, I will contact you, this was my first try at short rowing and I did measure the gauge and it was correct. I am determined to make this sweater, and thanks for answering my letter.
PS I used a Knit Picks yarn, sport weight 6 stitches=1 inch but of course the needle size was larger, could this be the issue?
Hi Nadia,
I think you found the culprit. That larger needle is probably effecting the row gauge.
Laura
Hi,
I have started on this project and am up to separating for armholes section. Do I have to cut the yarn to keep knitting the next section?
Thank you,
Sarah
Hi Sarah,
No, you do not need to cut the yarn at this point.
Laura
I am hoping to make this sweater longer as well, maybe a couple inches… I see some additional comments/answers regarding this but they all involve more short rows which would make the dip a little more dramatic. I really like the gentle curve and I am maybe a third of the way through the short rows, is there any other way to make it longer? Is it possible to intersperse some rows of knitting all stitches and purling all stitches or would that really bugger things up?
Megan.
Hi. Yes, there is still a way to lengthen the piece.
After you pick up the wrapped stitch, you're instructed to work one stitch and then wrap and turn. If you do not work that one stitch, but rather wrap and turn immediately after picking up your wrapped stitch, you will be adding one extra row. Do this enough times and you'll have extra inches. This will change the smooth slope of the edge, but it is a way to get some length into your piece at the point you are at now. I would definitely do this before the armholes, or it may get very confusing keeping track of the armhole height, etc.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
Hi Laura – thanks so much. Can you provide me with a row gauge on this sweater to help me guesstimate how many rows to add?
Thanks.
Hi Megan.
When I was stitching this sweater the row gauge was approximately 7 1/4 rows = 1 inch. The sweater is now on display at the shop in SoHo so I asked the girls there to double check for me. They came back with 7 1/2 rows = 1 inch. Alpaca is beautiful and heavy fiber. The sweater will bloom and stretch a bit lengthwise over time. Hope this helps.
-Laura
Hi,
I got to this part and I am a bit confused:
SEPARATE FOR ARMHOLES
RS: K42 (K54), place last 6 stitches on a holder, K102 (K114) place last 6 stitches on a holder, K36 (K48), knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, K1, wrap and turn. (99, 111 stitches for Right Back. 6 stitches for each Underarm. 96, 108 stitches for Front. 99, 111 stitches for Left Back. This count includes all of the stitches on your needles, not just the stitches you have just worked. This count adds up to your Cast On number.)
My issue is that I am making the medium/large and with those numbers after I place the second stitch holder there are only 36 stitches till the turn not 48. Is this a mistake? I counted my stitches 3 times and all the other numbers seem fine. Any help would be great.
Hello Daniella.
When you knit 54, did you put the PREVIOUS 6 stitches on a holder? or NEXT 6?
When you knit 114, did you put the PREVIOUS 6 stitches on a holder? or NEXT 6?
I think this might account for the missing stitches.
Laura
I put the next 6 not the last. Should it be the last?
Hi Daniella…
Yes, it should be the last or "previous" 6.
Laura
Hello thanks for the pattern i am trying to make it right now and i got the idea that it would look so good with long sleeves. If i am going to do this Will i still have to close of the mask for the arms and then knit a sleeve and attach it by sewing it on?
Hi Andrea.
Sleeves are a great idea!
Where it says PICK UP FOR THE ARMHOLES, pick up as instructed and then work the sleeve top down (from shoulder to wrist).
I know a few people have done this before and have posted their projects on Ravelry (a knitting website).
http://www.ravelry.com/projects/pilarination/short-row-sweater
http://www.ravelry.com/projects/millamelli/short-row-sweater
Let me know if you have any questions along the way. I haven't done it myself, but am here if you need. Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Hi! I have some questions on the Laura's Loop Short Row Sweater. I'd like to make it a little longer and I'm not sure where best to continue with same size rows in the pattern. I'd also like longer sleeves and I'm not entirely sure the best route for these as well. Any advice you could provide would be greatly appreciated. I'm looking forward to working on this beautiful sweater.
Hello Maude.
To lengthen the piece, you can wrap and turn each stitch rather than knitting (or purling if on the ws) a stitch between each wrapped stitch.
As for lengthening the sleeves… Where it says PICK UP FOR THE ARMHOLES, pick up as instructed and then work the sleeve top down (from shoulder to wrist).
I know a few people have done this before and have posted their projects on Ravelry (a knitting website).
http://www.ravelry.com/projects/pilarination/short-row-sweater
http://www.ravelry.com/projects/millamelli/short-row-sweater
Let me know if you have any questions along the way. I haven't done it myself, but am here if you need. Thanks for writing in.
Laura
My apologies If someone has asked this question but in the beginning stages of the pattern where the wrap and turns start, it says RS: K36, knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, K1, wrap and turn. Once I knit the 36, am I to knit the wrap stitch together and THEN K1?
Thanks so much for the help!
Hi Tunesia.
YES. You are correct. Knit the 36, then knit the wrapped stitch together with its wrap and then knit one and then wrap and turn.
Please let us know if you have any other questions!
Laura
I'm considering knitting this with Tosh Merino but I'm concerned a worsted weight will be too bulky. Has anyone knitted this with a heavier yarn?
Hi Shannon.
I knit one for myself in Alchemy's Mysterioso (sadly, we no longer sell it). Its'a worsted weight to aran weight yarn. I love how the sweater came out. It drapes beautifully and has a lovely halo. It is almost 70% silk though and that may attribute to how it falls and it never feeling bulky. I think it could be great in Tosh Merino. Maybe you could knit it with a larger needle than you normally would?
Let us know how it goes!
Laura
I have 430 yards of really lovely worsted weight that might be good, but I would have to cut down on the stitch count a little. Did you modify the pattern at all for the heavier yarn?
Hi Marie.
Thanks for writing in and for your interest in the pattern. Unfortunately, I have not modified the pattern for a heavier yarn! I will keep your request in mind though!
Thanks again for writing in.
Laura
HELP! I am at the part of the pattern that requires the kitchener stitch, but I am having problems because the working yarn is on the front needle instead of the back needle (working yarn from purling two back pieces together). What do I do?
Help! I'm at the "attaching the right and left backs" and have no clue on how to go about this. I don't have two circular needles on the garment. I have 1 circular, holding the left back (99) stitches, 2 double pointed needles holding the two front parts (each with 27 stitches), and the right back side on scrap yarn. What am I supposed to knit together? Thanks for any and all your help!
Hi Jennifer.
Attaching the Right and Left Backs is definitely possible to do with one circular needle and 2 double pointed needles.
Place the front stitches on hold on scrap yarn.
Place the Right Back on the double pointed needles.
Fold the garment as instructed above in the pattern. Hold the circular needle and first double pointed parallel to one another, both in your left hand. Then use the end left end of your circular needle to work across the stitches on both the circular and double pointed needle at the same time, as instructed above.
Please let me know if you need any more clarification. I hope you've enjoyed the pattern so far. We're here for any questions you have!
Laura
Megan!
Do not fret… just skip step 1 from this photo tutorial and then continue on as you normally would. https://www.purlsoho.com/create/knitting-tutorials-finishing/2008/1/23/kitchener-stitch.html
Please let us know if you have any other questions! Thanks for writing in. Laura
Hi Laura,
SOS! I'm hoping you can help me through this. I'm knitting the XS/S. Unfortunately I didn't read through all the comments before starting and after the first row I had to tink in order to get the ribbing correct. I decided on a K1, P1.
I'm at the point where I'm ready to frog the entire project, but want to give it one last shot. I can't figure out the last step of the Begin section. I am not coming up with P178, purl the wrapped stitch… not matter what I do. I saw where Kelli Ann mentioned it was P180. That would work, but then the next step for the Separate for Armholes doesn't work out right.
I need help. Can you please explain how the Begin section ends and then how the Separate for Armholes should work. I would love to finish this, but am really ready to give and try something else.
Thanks,
Kim
Hi Kim.
Let's try and get you back on track.
I'm not sure if you read my response to Kelli Ann's comments… but, at the end of BEGIN, you do in fact: P178 (P214), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn.
The next row, you will cumulatively knit 180 stitches, separating for armholes as you go, before knitting the wrapped stitch together with the wrap… It seems you must have gotten off by a couple stitches along the way. You want to be sure you are working across 180 stitches when you separate for armholes, working 39 for one back, 6 for the first armhole, 96 for the front, 6 for the second armhole and 39 for the other back.
If you have 180 on the purl side… you can divide the fronts and backs on that side… just follow that line fist line of pattern but purl rather than knit:
P42, place last 6 stitches on a holder, p102 place last 6 stitches on a holder, p36, purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, p1, wrap and turn.
Of course then your working yarn will be attached to the LEFT BACK rather than the RIGHT BACK, so you might as well shape that side first, continuing the short row shaping.
Does his help!?! Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Laura
Thanks Laura! I think I'm back on track. I think I've made it past this problem. I finally decided to figure out if I had the right number of stitches to do the next section and that helped me get to the next step.
Now I'm trying to figure out how to knit the 27 stitches 99 stitches together. I'm hoping I can find a few helpful hints in the comments. Any advice you can give me on this section would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again for your help! I'm able to move forward.
Kim
Wonderful Kim! Glad you're on track.
Kim, could you explain where you are? I'd love to help get you through the next portion of the pattern, but I want to be sure I understand where you are first.
After you work across the stitches of both backs simultaneously, grafting the backs together, you will use kitchener stitch to graft the shoulder stitches to one another. The back of the neck stitches will remain 'live' (not bound off) on the needle between the two grafted shoulders. Then you'll pick up for the neck…
For a kitchener photo tutorial: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/knitting-tutorials-finishing/2008/1/23/kitchener-stitch.html
For a kitchener video tutorial: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/knitting-tutorials-finishing/2013/11/11/kitchener-stitch-video.html
Write me back!
Laura
Hi Laura,
I'm now at the left back.
"Continue in this fashion. On the WS: purl up to the wrapped stitch, purl the wrapped stitch with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn. On the WS: knit across. Ending with the RS row, knitting across 96 stitches."
I was actually going to say my armhole is lined up with the 27 stitches as far as the length and yet I wasn't at 96 stitches.
In typing the instructions I think I just found my error. I don't think I was doing the P1 after I picked up the wrapped stitch. Darn…my error. Time to TNIK.
Now my issue is figuring how much I need to TINK. Off to TINK…
Will let you know when I get to the next step.
Happy 4th!
Thanks,
Kim
The pattern says to "Continue in this pattern, working up to the wrapped stitch, working the wrapped stitch with the wrap picked up, working one more stitch, wrapping and turning. Ending with a RS row" how long do you continue in that pattern?
Hi Anna…
Thanks for writing in.
So you'll work, wrapping and turning, until you K176 (K212) and then you'll go to the next line of instructions:
WS: P178 (P214), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn.
Is that clear? Please let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
Hi! I really want to make this sweater but i am currently a size xl to xxl, how man stitches/ what would i have to do to make this sweater in my size?
Hi Katrina,
Thank you so very much for your interest in this pattern.
Unfortunately, at this moment we do not have this pattern sized for xl or xxl.
Have you seen the Tulip Tank Top? It has a broader range of sizes and a similar effect.
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2014/06/27/lauras-loop-tulip-tank-top/
Thanks again.
Best,
Laura
I am getting so many compliments on this sweater and it’s not even finished. Thank you for such an elegant design, for your generosity to make it free and for making me look smart when people try to figure out the construction. Best regards
Hi!
I am quite lost when it comes to attaching the right and left backs. Once I purl the stitches from both needles together, do I purl only that stitch or am I purling across that row?
Also, when I attach the front left side and left back, am I working that from the RS or WS?
Thank you as always for your help,
Tunesia
Hi Tunesia.
To attach the backs, you’ll be working with the wrong side facing you and you will need to purl across both needles at one time, all the way across the row.
Hope this helps!
Let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
Hi Laura,
I love this pattern so much 🙂
Do you think that it would be possible to knit it with a summer-cotton yarn or would it be to rigid?
I´ve alredy had problems trying to adapt the recommended yarn with one of my own criteria…
Thank you very much,
Marta
Hi Marta.
I’m so glad you like the pattern so much!
I think you could definitely do this in a summer-cotton yarn. Cotton is a heavier fiber so it’ll drape a bit more. Have you looked at Cascade’s cotton yarn Ultra Pima (https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/7117-Cascade-Yarns-Ultra-Pima). It’ has a beautiful drape and softness to it. I don’t think it would be too ridged at all. I know some people have worked this up in Alchemy’s Silken Straw (https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/1408-Alchemy-Silken-Straw). It’s a very different look, but fantastic for spring and summer.
Let me know if you have any questions as you look into yarn substitutions. We’re here to help!
Laura
Le pull est super sympa, est ce que vous vendez les explications en français , si oui je suis preneuse. merci
Hi Cecile-
I’m afraid none of us speak French well enough to translate patterns! I’m so sorry we can’t be of more help!
Best-
Molly
Hi Laura,
I’m a bit confused after reading through the comments and only seeing folks have issues with the beginning ribbing for the M/L size. Even for the small with 306 stitches, the 2×2 rib isn’t working out for me. Am I missing something? Thanks!
Marissa
Hi Marissa.
Thank you so much for writing in!!! I have edited that first little section of the pattern. Please let me know if you have any questions.
Best,
Laura
Help! I am almost finished with the begin section and I just now realized that I was not supposed to join in the round at the very beginning! 🙁 Is there any way I can fix this without taking it all apart?!
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing in.
Sadly, I do not know how you could fix this without taking it all apart. I’m so sorry.
Please let u know if you have any questions!
Laura
I don’t know if you are still checking this comment thread, but I am having a terrible time with the gauge. I am using a 50g merino silk blend, how many stitches and how many rows in my gauge? (ps I’ve tried size 5 and size 6 needles) I just don’t think I am doing this properly.
Hi Libby.
Yes! We will always be checking this comment thread. I’m so glad you wrote in. Let’s see if we can figure out this gauge issue. Are you having a hard time measuring your swatch? Or are you struggling to find the appropriate needle and yarn combination to get the same gauge as I got?
I used a sport weight yarn and a size US 5 needle to get a fabric with 6 stitches per inch.
Have you seen our tutorials on Gauge and Tension?
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2006/08/29/swatching-for-gauge/
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2006/12/06/tension-a-not-too-tight-tutorial/
I hope you write us back.
I would love to get you on your way with this project.
Thanks,
Laura
Hi. This pattern is beautiful! I’m wondering if it would be a good idea to use your worsted twist heather yarn though? Would the pattern need any adjustment?
Thanks,
C.
Hello C!
The pattern would need quite a bit of adjustment since the original yarn is a sport weight and therefore significantly thinner than Worsted Twist. If you wanted to substitute for a Purl Soho exclusive yarn, try using the Mulberry Merino found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/mulberry-merino.html
Best of luck! -Alyson
Hello! Sorry for the super simple question, but just want to clarify: Does the line below from the ‘begin’ section mean to continue the short rows until all 306 of the original stitches have been picked up? Thanks 🙂
Continue in this pattern, working up to the wrapped stitch, working the wrapped stitch with the wrap picked up, working one more stitch, wrapping and turning. Ending with a RS row. –
Hi, Hanalae!
Thank you for writing in! Sorry about the delayed response! So, for this section you’ll work, wrapping and turning, until you K176 (K212) and then you’ll go to the next line of instructions:
WS: P178 (P214), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn.
Please let us know if you have further questions!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Hello!
I’ve had my fun with scarves and I would love to progress on to a jumper and I love this one. But when I try and get the link to the short row tutorial it says the page isn’t available and I can’t find it.
I understand the concept of how it works but its just the wrap that’s confusing me. Would anyone be able to direct me to the right page so I can make this?
Thanks!
Hello Becca,
Thanks for writing us and for catching that glitch. I have fixed the hyperlink and it should be working now. For your convenience, here is a link to the short row tutorial pasted below:
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/06/18/short-rows/
Happy knitting!
Best,
Adam
Thank you!
hello! do you have any tips for picking up stitches along the neckline and armholes? i’m at the stage where i’m picking up for the neck, but am picking up more than double the stated number or 99. should i be picking up every other or every third stitch?
Hello Hana,
Thanks for writing us! You should have 144 stitches total after picking up the front neck stitches because your back neck stitches are already on the needle. Be sure to be very consistent regarding where and how you pick up your stitches. Let us know if you still have too many stitches after reading this.
Best,
Adam
Help!! I am about to tear it out and restart. I have separated for armholes, but my knitting is not symmetrical! Where did I go wrong?
Hello Chloe,
Thanks for writing in! Sorry you are having trouble with this! There could be a few things that went wrong during the process of knitting this sweater. You could have cast on the wrong number but done the short row correctly, which wold have offset the dip in the sweater at center front. Also, you could have miscounted the amount to knit for the first short row and this could have also offset your stitch count on either side. How uneven is the knitting? if it’s by a couple stitches, I don’t think this should be a problem.
-Adam
I really want to make this from my homespun but can’t find the yardage to know if I have enough. Please help! Thank you in advance.
LJ
Hi LJ,
Thanks for writing in! Calculating yardage on a homespun yarn without a label is tough. I suggest cutting a piece of cardboard a half of a yard wide and wrapping the yarn around and around. You can either keep count or wrap the yarn in an organized manner so you can count later. The reason you will cut a half of a yard piece of cardboard is that you wrap around the front and back of it. I hope this solves it!
-Adam
Thank you Adam, I know the yardage of the yarn I spun (sorry for phrasing my inquiry in such a misleading way) What I meant to ask is how much yardage do I need for this project? I know the homespun I have is the right weight. Thank you!!
Hi LJ,
Sorry about the misunderstanding! You’ll need roughly 550 or 660 yards depending on the size you make. I hope you’ll enjoy knitting this project!
-Adam
Perfect!! Thank you so very much!
I would love to adapt this for my daughter. Any suggestions for making a smaller size
Hi Rowan,
I think this would look great in a smaller size! I don’t know your daughter’s size, but I can offer some suggestions. Firstly, you’ll want to do a gauge swatch to determine your stitches per inch. The total cast on for this sweater is about 50% more than the chest circumference because of the overlap. When doing the short rows, you can keep 36 stitches in the center of the work and short row however many until you reach the end. The rest of the body just needs to be divided evenly (i.e. the neckline). I hope this helps you get off on the right foot!
Happy knitting!
Adam
When I’m doing the short rows before the arm holes do I pick up all the stitches and then put the armhole stitches on holders? Or do I just do 214 stitches for the m/l? I’m very confused.
Hi Hannah,
Thank you for writing us! I am not sure I understand your question. You only purl 214 stitches for the last row on the wrong side. After your wrap and turn from that row you will knit across, reserving stitches on holders for each armhole as you go. Once you get to the wrap on the knit side you will wrap and turn and work only between the armhole and end of your work. I hope this answers your question! Let me know if you are still confused!
-Adam
I would love to knit this with long sleeves and longer in general. Any plans for creating such a pattern?
Hi Paula,
Long sleeves will look great with this sweater! I will pass it along and maybe it will go into work! In the meantime, I suggest picking up the armhole stitches and knitting down, decreasing evenly until you get to the wrist. Best of luck and let me know if you need any assistance!
-Adam
Hello,
I have just completed the neckline ribbing (the project has been a great adventure for me so far) and wondering if there is a particular bind-off technique that you recommend for this pattern?
Thank you!
Hi Claire,
Thank you for writing us! Glad you’re nearing the end! I suggest a loose pass-over bind off (traditional) or a tubular bind off if you want to be fancy. If you bind off tightly, I would try Elizabeth Zimmerman’s Better Bind Off.
Best of luck,
Adam
Hi, so I have been trying to work on this sweater and I even went to a yarn store to get help and I think they told me the wrong thing. Now I am so screwed up on where I am in the sweater and I have absolutely no idea how to fix it or where I have gone really wrong. How do I get help? I have been working on what is supposed to be the right side but now it appears that I have done something really wrong and I am really frustrated…..
Hi Lindsay,
Thanks for writing in! I am sorry to hear that you are having difficulties. We’d be happy to try to help. Can you describe the issues that you are having and where you are in the pattern. You could also send images to us at [email protected] and we could take a look at them and see if we can be of service!
Best,
Cassy
Can you guys add a video on how to do this? I am a beginnner/intermediate knitter and have been trying to knit this for the last 6 years and is always stuck at the wrap and turn.
Hello Lily,
Thanks for writing in! We currently do not have a tutorial video for Wrap and turns, but we do have a picture tutorial that I find very helpful.
I hope this helps and let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Hi! I love the look of this sweater! What’s the fit like it? How much positive ease is included in the measurements? I’d love to knit this sweater, however, I’m concerned about the fit. My chest/bust measurement is 31 inches across the fullest part. How do I make the sweater smaller if I need to? Please and thank you for any insight you can offer.
Toodles,
Ayesha
Hi Ayesha,
Thanks for writing in! The measurements provided are finished chest measurements. If you would like a little ease, you can factor that in when choosing the size. For the smaller size, this would give you 3 inches of positive ease. At present we do not have a modification for making a smaller version. You could try going down a needle size to tighten up the gauge, however, this will shorten the sweater some. Earlier in the comments, Laura did suggest a way to lengthen it that might be helpful if you decide to go this route.
Thanks again for your interest and happy knitting!
Cassy
HI!
Thank you for the wonderful pattern! My knitting guild had a lot of compliments for the sweater when I told them about it and someone looked it up on Ravelry. Question: Have the errors mentioned in earlier posts been corrected, and are they reflected in the pattern I see above?
Thanks again!
Ayesha!
Hi Ayesha,
Thanks for writing in! For our online, free patterns, we update the pattern above to correct any errors that may have been caught. That is to say, that the pattern above has had all errata incorporated and is the most up to date version!
Best,
Cassy
I’m working up the front and I have somehow added 2 stitches. When I count all the stitches on the needles I have 344 instead of 342 (m/l size). There are no visible mistakes so I don’t want to unravel the whole thing. Where is the best place to reduce stitches so I have the correct number when I get to the next stage of the pattern? I was thinking in the row when I separate for the armholes, in the center front between the arms will not be very noticeable (one decrease on each side close to each arm hole). Can you recommend a relatively invisible decrease stitch? I’d appreciate your thoughts.
Hi Alice,
Thanks for writing in! I think that we have all been there at some point. The best place would be at the sides, decreasing one stitch on each side. I would suggest the row before the armholes in the middle of the stitches that will be used for the armholes. This will hide the decreases the best!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi! I think this is a gorgeous sweater, love how it tucks in at the natural waist. Id like to second Paula’s comment about a winterized long sleeve version if possible 😉 . That said, I’m also interested in making a summer version of this top – kind of a cross between this and the Tulip top. Would changing the yarn make it impossible to create this lovely top?
Hi Grace,
Thanks for writing in! We we will certainly keep your request in mind! You can definitely knit this up in the Euroflax that we used on the Tulip Tank as they knit a similar gauges. As always when replacing yarn, I would suggest knitting a gauge swatch to ensure that you like the fabric and can get gauge!
Best,
Cassy
I’m having trouble right before it says to “separate for armholes”. Am I supposed to do the “wrap and turn” steps till the end when I can’t “wrap and turn” anymore? In the picture it doesn’t look like those steps were repeated all the way through, and there are a lot of stitches left over. It would be amazing if I could get some clarity on that. Maybe how many stitches I should leave when started the armholes? Sorry if it’s obvious and I just don’t get it.
Thank you!
Hi Tessa,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help! In the short row section, you will see that at the beginning of each row you will begin by knitting or purling 2 more stitches than you did in the previous row. After the stated rows are complete, you will continue on until you get to a wrong side row that begins with P178 (P214). This will not be until you cannot wrap and turn anymore as there will be some left over stitches on each edge.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I am just very confused once I have the sweater folded. What two circular needles are you referring to.? There one back side still on needles, one back side on scrap yarn, and then the two front shoulders on DPNs. Am I connecting the two back pieces together? What am I connecting it with? My ball of yarn is there to make the neck finishing right…or maybe wrong… Thanks for any help you can provide!
Hello Katrina,
Thank you for reaching out! This portion of the pattern is referring to to the stitches that are on a circular needle, as well as the stitches that are currently on scrap yarn. You will be connecting the two back pieces together. If you don’t have a spare circular needle, you can always use two double points instead by doing the following;
Place the front stitches on hold on scrap yarn.
Place the Right Back on the double pointed needles.
Fold the garment as instructed above in the pattern. Hold the circular needle and first double pointed parallel to one another, both in your left hand. Then use the end left end of your circular needle to work across the stitches on both the circular and double pointed needle at the same time, as instructed above.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you. It says “join yarn” before I start to purl through both back pieces. Currently my ball of yarn is attached to a front shoulder. Do I start from there or was I supposed to have a free ball of yarn and I didn’t buy enough?
Hello Katrina,
Great Question! Looking at the pattern I know that it says “Do not cut yarn. Keep this ball attached, you will use it to pick up stitches for the neck line later.”, however if you are on your last ball of yarn I would cut your yarn at this point so that you can use it to attach the back pieces.
I hope this clears things up, and of course let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I created this in the ultra pima, but after washing and drying it, it is still too large. I should have made the xs/s size. Can I drop this late in the game and have the yarn be useable? Thanks!
Hello Katrina,
Thank you for reaching out! Though I can’t see/touch your project I’m tempted to say yes. Primarily because cotton tends to be a pretty resilient yarn, plus if you aren’t going to wear it at the size you made I say why not try re-using the yarn!
I hope this helps and happy unraveling!
-Marilla
Thank you. I will give it a go and see how it turns out.
I am at the point where I need to separate the arm holes and I am short 2 stitches. Do I need to frog? Thank you for any advice you can give.
Hi Katrina,
Thanks for writing in! I certainly wouldn’t start over after all that work if you are only off by two stitches! The easiest fix for this will be to increase two stitches in an unobtrusive place – two stitches will not make a significant change to the size of the sweater, but everything in this sweater will be easier to follow if we get your stitch count back on track! I would probably divide the sweater so that you have the correct number of stitches for the front and left back but are short two stitches on the right back. Since the right back gets folded under the left back, you can work two Make Ones anywhere in the last few rows of the right back and they will be completely hidden when the top is assembled.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I just finished making this shirt in the small size and I guess I didn’t pay too much attention to the 19 1/2 inch length so the shirt is pretty short but fits perfectly everywhere else. Do you think it would be possible to pick up 306 stitches onto the bottom of the 2×2 rib of the shirt to add extra length? Or do you have another idea to add length to the bottom of it.
Hello Jessica,
Thank you for reaching out! The only other Idea I can think of is wet blocking your sweater and pinning it out to add a bit of length. However this will not give you as much control or legnth as picking up and knitting.
I hope this help and let us know how it goes!
Marilla
I’m not sure what this means.
“WS: P42, purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn.
Continue in this pattern, working up to the wrapped stitch, working the wrapped stitch with the wrap picked up, working one more stitch, wrapping and turning. Ending with a RS row.”
When you say continue in this pattern ( which is by 2’s) how far am I suppose to go? The next is WS P178. So, if I did my math correctly I’d have to do this short row business (x2) 68 times. Am I understanding that correctly?
Thanks
Hi Sandy,
Thanks for reaching out! It does sound like you have it figured out – this sweater involves quite a few short rows! You will continue working the short rows as set, moving out by two stitches each short row, until your wrong side row is long enough that you Purl 178 stitches before reaching the next wrapped stitch.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi. I’m having trouble folding the sweater. I don’t understand how it’s supposed to be folded and then seamed together. Maybe I’m just having a brain fart. Lol. Any help would be appreciated!
Hello Callie,
Thanks for reaching out! This part can be tricky to visualize- I totally get it. Once you have your stitches placed on your double pointed needles lay your garment out on the floor so that the front is down touching the floor. Once you have done this it should be clear that there are basically four sections of lives stitches on needles. You will first fold your Right Back behind the Front so that the edge aligns with the end stitches on the double pointed needle and then fold the Left Back behind the Right Back, aligning their top and side edges. You are now in position to graft your shoulders together!
I hope this helps and let us know if we can clarify anything for you!
-Marilla
Thank you so much for this pattern. I made it for my sister who bought the baby alpaca yarn for a blanket for her grandson. I had some skeins left over, so I found this pattern and made it for her. She absolutely loved it! And, it looked beautiful on her! So, thank you again for the pattern.
I absolutely love this sweater and am dying to make it but I am confused about the yardage! The suggest yarns link isn’t working anymore so I don’t know the amount of yarn I need for the med/large size.
Thanks!
Hi Rachel,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for reaching out! The original yarn had 110 yards per skein, so you will need 550 yards for the extra small/small, or 660 yards for the medium/large.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
OMG I love this and need it asap! Unfortunately I am not so experienced and will hace to take a very close look to the “wrap” thing cause never done that and I am abosolutely confused, but thanks so much for sharing!
I recently finished this and it didn’t come out right. My version is uneven and short. When looking at it, the left front came out well but the right front is shorter and at an angle. Do you have any guidance on what I can do when I try this again? I want to give this another go so that I can actually wear it. Any advice is very much appreciated!
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m so sorry to hear that your sweater didn’t turn out like ours! It’s hard to say what exactly went wrong without seeing your work, but it’s not uncommon to have more trouble seeing wrap and turns on the purl side of knitting, so I would guess that, since the right front is not quite right, you may have worked the wrong side short rows incorrectly. If you think that sounds like it might be the case, I find it very helpful to place a removable stitch marker in each wrapped stitch immediately after working the wrap and turn so you can easily spot it on the next row. If you’re new to short rows, you may also want to consider working a smaller practice project like our Bandana Cowl to really get the hang of things before trying the sweater again!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi, I really love this pattern and keen to give it a go. Would it be feasible to change the neckline from scoop to v-neck? If so, any suggestions on how to alter the pattern to incorporate this?
Thanks!
Hi Zarinne,
Thanks for writing in! I’m afraid we don’t have instructions for altering this sweater to a V-Neck, as it does require re-writing quite a bit of the pattern. However, you may be able to use the V-Neck instructions from a sweater that is knit at a similar gauge, such as our Shoulder Forward Pullover, to work out the changes on your own!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Just in case you’re still checking this comment thread here is my question! I would like to make this longer, and I see back in the comments Laura recommends skipping the K1 before wrap and turn in order to achieve more length. I want to check, is this for the whole length? Or is it better to knit as the pattern states for x number of rows before then skipping the K1?
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for reaching out! Both options will give you extra length for the entire length. I think you could go either route depending on your preference, but be sure to keep in mind that either option will change the overall roundness of the bottom!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi there! I am late to the party—just got the courage to try it out. Lol
I haven’t had any trouble up to now, but I am working on separating for the armholes. I have knitted the 42 and slipped 6 onto a holder, but now I am unsure of what to do. Do I continue knitting the remaining as the pattern states, or do I need to start with another ball of yarn? I read through all the comments and more of the pattern to see if I could figure it out. I feel I must be special because no one else is asking this question. 😬
As I said, I moved 6 off and went to knit but don’t know if I am supposed to knit as usual. I feel this would not work, but I know nothing. Lol
Please help I really want to be successful with this.
Thank you,
Amber
Hi Amber,
Thanks for reaching out. It sounds as if you slipped the next 6 stitches onto a holder, rather than the last 6 stitches! By slipping the final 6 stitches you just knit previously onto the holder, your working yarn will be in the correct place to continue on knitting the row without having to start anew. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you, that is what I did. Apparently I need to learn to read. I read it several times but just saw what I wanted I guess. 😬🤣
Finger crossed I get it.
Do you have an adaptation for a larger bust? Stunning pattern!
Hi Kristina,
Thank you for asking! We don’t have an adaptation for this pattern but I’d recommend checking out our Tulip Tank which has a quite similar construction!
All the best,
Gavriella