Ainur Berkimbayeva For Purl Soho: Cocoon Cardigan
The strikingly artistic Cocoon Cardigan pattern by Ainur Berkimbayeva is an architectural marvel, both to knit and to wear. Its corrugated stitch pattern beautifully articulates the sweater’s shaping, while our highly structured 100% merino wool Knitting Yarn adds even more lush dimension… Stunning!
A surprising and creative way to knit a sweater (what else would you expect from the wildly inventive Ainur?), you knit the Cocoon Cardigan sideways in two pieces, then join them at the spine with a 3 Needle Bind Off… No sewing!
You start each piece at the cuff and knit in the round, working increases to create each funnel-shaped dolman sleeve. Short rows shape the back of the neck and the bottom edge, and a picked-up edging makes a tidy finish.
Such an unfussy shape with such a big impact, this cardigan is oversized enough to envelop you and whatever else you’re wearing in a dramatic cocoon of warmth!
The allover Reverse Rib stitch pattern is just two rows of knitting alternating with two rows of purling, like deeper, bolder garter stitch ridges. Knitting Yarn’s cushiony 4-ply structure makes those ridges super defined… Lots of satisfying knitting awaits you!
A favorite yarn for knitting just about everything, Knitting Yarn has a wonderfully springy feeling on the needles and creates a smooth fabric with lots of stitch definition and a pleasant toothiness that you will love. This light worsted/DK-weight yarn knits up quickly without being bulky, and it comes in ready-to-knit balls so you can cast on right away.
Pick from 37 amazing heathered colors, including 13 new beauties. We chose mesmerizing Distant River and vibrant Sour Citron (one of the new ones!) to knit Ainur’s captivating Cocoon Cardigan… You’ll reach for it every time you want a warm hug and a dose of stunning beauty!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed for Purl Soho by Ainur Berkimbayeva. Ainur sees the unique constraints of knitting as opportunities rather than limitations. Using her remarkable ingenuity and love of geometry, she designs beautiful and adventurous pieces for knitters who share her enthusiasm for shape, texture, and adventure!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoCocoonCardigan, and #PurlSohoKnittingYarn. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 6 (7, 8, 8, 9) (9, 10, 10, 11) balls of Purl Soho’s Knitting Yarn, 100% merino wool yarn. Each ball of this light worsted/dk-weight yarn is 219 yards/ 100 grams. Approximately 1220 (1430, 1575, 1690, 1795) (1965, 2075, 2160, 2350) total yards required. We used the colors Sour Citron and Distant River.
- A set of US 7 (4.5 mm) double pointed needles
- US 7, 16-inch circular knitting needles
- US 7, 32-inch circular needles
- Spare US 7, 32-inch circular needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A Cocoon Cardigan PDF
GAUGE
17 stitches and 33 rounds = 4 inches in stitch pattern (see Special Instructions)
SIZES
NOTE: For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
32¼ (35¼, 36, 37, 38) (40, 42, 43, 44¾)
To fit actual chest circumference of approximately 30–34 (34–38, 38–42, 42–46, 46–50) (50–54, 54–58, 58–62, 62–66) inches
- Finished Width from Wrist to Wrist: 32¼ (35¼, 36, 37, 38) (40, 42, 43, 44¾) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Hem: 26½ (28¾, 30¼, 30¾, 32¼) (33¾, 35, 35¾, 37¼) inches
Sample: The cardigan shown here is size 35¼, worn by a person with a 34-inch chest.
PATTERN
The Cocoon Cardigan is available as a PDF download only.
Learn About Knitting Yarn + All Our Beautiful Yarns
A true classic loved by knitters and crocheters alike, Knitting Yarn brings its crisp stitch definition, soft strength, and cushiony feel to this project! Made with 100% New Zealand merino wool, Knitting Yarn is a light worsted/DK-weight yarn in a ready-to-knit ball you’ll love to knit from. Simple stitches, dimensional textures, beautifully articulated cables, and glorious colorwork… Everything looks amazing in Knitting Yarn! Making something big, like a blanket or sweater? Shop our 1000-gram Knitting Yarn On A Cone collection, too!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our collection of (mostly free!) Knitting Yarn knitting patterns and cast on!
More Light Worsted/DK-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of light worsted/DK-weight yarns (What does DK-weight yarn mean, really? Our guide to DK yarn will answer your questions and demystify.)
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop merino wool yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I wondered whether this cardigan works for and is written for a 3X?
Hi EstherGrace,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend checking out the size options, which you can find under the SIZES heading on this page. Our sizes are based on your chest circumference measurement, so you can compare that to the sizes offered and see if there’s one that will work. Please let me know if there isn’t one though, and we’re happy to take a look into next steps from there!
All the best,
Lili
Love this pattern, looks cozy and it’s on my list to make. What skill level is needed beside knit and purls? And yardage of worsted weight?
Thank you
Hi Rhonda,
We’re so glad that this design has caught your eye! Instead of assigning a difficulty level, we prefer to describe the skills involved with a pattern to help knitters learn more about what’s ahead. We know that learning new techniques enriches the process of making! Below, I’ve included a list of skills that this pattern requires, as well as links to any tutorials we have on them:
How To Read A Knitting Pattern
Lifted Increases
Short Rows: German Short Rows
Long Tail Cast-On
Knit Two Together (k2tog)
Purl Two Together (p2tog)
3-Needle Bind-Off
Picking Up Stitches
Ultimately, we hope that you will take little leaps into the unknown and find that the satisfaction was worth the challenge. If these techniques are daunting, I would recommend trying them out with some scrap yarn before beginning the cardigan. And as always, we are happy to help answer any questions you may have along the way!
In answer to your other question, this pattern was actually designed for a DK weight yarn, so I’d recommend sticking with that yarn weight! You can find the yardage in the MATERIALS section on this page, or in your pattern PDF.
All the best,
Lili
Hi How hard is this to knit?
Hi Lucy,
We’re so glad that this design has caught your eye! Instead of assigning a difficulty level, we prefer to describe the skills involved with a pattern to help knitters learn more about what’s ahead. We know that learning new techniques enriches the process of making! Below, I’ve included a list of skills that this pattern requires, as well as links to any tutorials we have on them:
How To Read A Knitting Pattern
Lifted Increases
Short Rows: German Short Rows
Long Tail Cast-On
Knit Two Together (k2tog)
Purl Two Together (p2tog)
3-Needle Bind-Off
Picking Up Stitches
Ultimately, we hope that you will take little leaps into the unknown and find that the satisfaction was worth the challenge. If these techniques are daunting, I would recommend trying them out with some scrap yarn before beginning the cardigan. And as always, we are happy to help answer any questions you may have along the way!
All the best,
Lili
A beautiful pattern. I am an intermediate knitter. Would I be able to tackle such a project?
Hi Marie Claude,
We’re so glad that this design has caught your eye! I think this would be a great pattern for an intermediate knitter, and we know that learning new techniques enriches the process of making! Below, I’ve included a list of skills that this pattern requires, as well as links to any tutorials we have on them:
How To Read A Knitting Pattern
Lifted Increases
Short Rows: German Short Rows
Long Tail Cast-On
Knit Two Together (k2tog)
Purl Two Together (p2tog)
3-Needle Bind-Off
Picking Up Stitches
Ultimately, we hope that you will take little leaps into the unknown and find that the satisfaction was worth the challenge. If these techniques are daunting, I would recommend trying them out with some scrap yarn before beginning the cardigan. And as always, we are happy to help answer any questions you may have along the way!
All the best,
Lili
This looks amazing! Like a cross between a wrap (which can be a little impractical for my lifestyle) and a cardigan sweater. Just the thing I need in my wardrobe. I can imagine throwing it on before leaving the house to run errands, and also wear it around the house while doing chores. At the same time it is simple and elegant and I’d wear it for a nicer occasion!
If only I could settle on a color and not be so indecisive! The lime green color is stunning, but so many others that are catching my eye!
How would Blackbird Linen work for this pattern? And if you think it’s suitable, would you go for one of the brilliant colors like electric blue or ruby pink — or for something softer?
Hi Cheryl,
Blackbird Linen would be a very interesting choice for this pattern! While it won’t make the warmest or fluffiest knit fabric like an animal fiber yarn would, the cardigan would come out with a ton of drape and with the cool softness of linen. I love the super vibrant colors of Blackbird Linen, so I think I would go for one of those!
All the best,
Lili
Is there or will there be a crochet version of this sweater?
Hi Jennifer,
I’m afraid that we don’t have a crochet version of this pattern available, but I’ll pass along your interest in this to our design team for future consideration!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
Instead of using DPNS could I start with magic loop?
Many thanks
Fay
Hi Fay,
Yep, you can totally use magic loop to start this project!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I’ve been looking through the pattern while eagerly awaiting shipment of my yarn, and I noticed 2 typos. They’re pretty obvious, but I though I’d alert you to them.
In the section LEFT BODY/Shape Left Back Neck, the second paragraph from the bottom gives the stitches remaining as [102 (111, 117, 1181 124) etc. Looks like the 1181 should be 118.
And in the section RIGHT BODY/Right Sleeve, final paragraph gives total stitches as [259 (280, 294, 3011 315) etc. Looks like the 3011 should be 301. I think someone hit the “1” key instead of the comma both times.
Please confirm that I’ve got this right. Looking forward to this project!
Hi Laura,
Thanks so much for bringing this to our attention! I’ve passed along your message to our design team who will review the stitch counts and make the necessary changes. I’ll get back to you once I hear back from them about exactly what the counts should be! I think you’re right, but it could potentially be more of a change than just deleting the 1s (though I think that’s probably all it is)!
All the best,
Lili
Hi again, Laura!
As an update, our tech editors have confirmed that the stitch counts should be 118 and 301.
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I’m 6’1″ and was wondering how I could increase the length without making the cardigan too big for my slim frame? I intend to knit the 34-38″ size.
Thank you,
Elke
Hi Elke,
That’s a great question! Normally, we would have a better idea of how to make modifications for our patterns, but since this cardigan has such a unique construction it’s extremely difficult to do so without rewriting the entire pattern…. If you’re feeling confident and ready to take on a challenge though, then what you’ll need to do first is choose a larger size, specifically one that is close to your desired length. Then, you can increase the rate of increases in either sleeve by repeating Round 8 more frequently, so that the sleeves/sides aren’t as wide. Once you’ve reached the final stitch count for the new size before dividing the back from the front, then you can follow the rest of the pattern as written.
All the best,
Lili
Greetings! I am petite and this sweater would be several inches longer on me than I would like for my small frame. How complicated would it be to adjust pattern length for a 5’ 1” frame without changing the lovely shape?
Thank you,
Marlo
Hi Marlo,
We’re so glad you’re interested in personalizing this pattern in a way that compliments your body in a more customized way! Admittedly, this would be a bit complicated because of the cardigan’s unique shape, but if you’re feeling confident and ready to take on a challenge, then what you’ll need to do is first choose a smaller size, specifically one that is close to your desired length. Then, you can decrease the rate of increases in either sleeve by repeating Round 8 less frequently, so that the sleeves/sides are wider. Once you’ve reached the final stitch count for the new size before dividing the back from the front, then you can follow the rest of the pattern as written.
All the best,
Lili
I purchased the pattern and can’t wait to make this! Do you think Good Wool would be a nice substitute for the Knitting Yarn? Which other of your yarns would work for this pattern? Thanks, Paisley
Hi Paisley,
Thanks for writing in! I think that Good Wool would be slightly too thin for this pattern. The gauge is 17 stitches and 33 rounds = 4 inches in stitch pattern, which is already pretty loose for Knitting Yarn, and Good Wool is a bit thinner than Knitting Yarn. If you’re aiming for a light and airy texture though, you could make Good Wool work! You may just need to size your needles up to achieve the gauge. For some other yarn options that would be a better fit, I would recommend using Note, Cashmere Merino Bloom, Vinter Wool, Morning, or Plein Air.
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
My Knitting Yarn arrived today and I’m getting ready to start this project. Very excited! The cardigan looks so comfy and I had the thought “this would be perfect with pockets”. Is there a way to add pockets to this?
Thanks,
Susan
Hi Susan,
That’s a fun idea! You could probably add pockets using the same technique as an afterthought heel for socks. Just use scrap yarn to allocate the number of stitches you want for the pocket, and then once you’re done with the rest of the cardigan, you can go back, slip those stitches back onto your needles, and knit the pocket from there!
All the best,
Lili
HI,
I am wondering if there is a discrepancy in the repeat rounds. I am working on size 35.25″
If I repeat the increase round 32 times, that comes to 224 stitches. Adding in the 49 stitches from the set up rounds, that totals to 273 stitches, short 7 stitches. I checked the other sizes and each one is 7 stitches short. Except size 37. Have I missed something? It’s the accountant in me that checks numbers…
Hi Anna,
Thanks for writing in, and it’s always a good idea to double check the numbers! In this case though, the pattern is correct as written. You’ll be working Rounds 5 – 8 thirty-two more times, in addition to the first time you work through them. The first time, you’re increasing from 49 stitches to 56 stitches, and then after that you increase 224 more stitches when you repeat Rows 5 – 8 thirty-two more times. That adds up to 280 stitches by the end!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
Okay, thanks for your reply. I have been counting the increases as I do them. It comes pout the same in the end ;0)
Anna
I am having difficulty getting the gauge correct. I started with a size 7 circular needle and began knitting a circular gauge swatch (a modified version of the method shown in your Swatching for Circular Gauge tutorial) in the pattern. I assumed that I measure the gauge of the purl bumps.
After a few pattern repeats, I measured and got 19 sts/4 inches. I was surprised because I usually have problems from knitting too loosely and need to go down a needle size. So I started over with a size 8 needle. Measuring after few pattern repeats, I got 18 sts over 4 inches.
I don’t own a size 9 circular needle, so I would need to go buy one first to try that. Any advice? Am I measuring too soon? The stitch pattern lies mostly flat, so that doesn’t seem to be an issue. Is anyone else running into this problem?
Thanks.
Hi Kim,
I’m sorry that you’ve been struggling to achieve the gauge of this pattern! Have you blocked your swatch yet? 18 stitches is very close to 17, so you will probably be able to stretch the swatch ever so slightly while blocking to match the gauge perfectly. And since you’ll likely be blocking your finished project, you can do the same thing to make sure it’s exactly the right size!
All the best,
Lili
I have not blocked my swatch yet. But isn’t it the case that I would have to SHRINK rather than STRETCH from 18 sts to 17 sts. Not impossible, but I think I will try the size 9 needles to see if that works better. I am just so surprised by the gauge difference.
Hi Kim,
I would definitely try blocking then, before you try swatching again! Since you have 18 stitches within 4 inches, instead of 17 stitches within the same distance, that actually means that each stitch is slightly smaller than it should be, so you will need to stretch it every so slightly to get the correct gauge. Blocking will make that possible!
All the best,
Lili
When you do the LL1, since the second row down was a purl stitch, do you pull the left leg under the purl bump?
Hi Cheryle,
Thanks for writing in! The stitch in the second round beneath the live stitch on the right needle will actually look just like a regular knit stitch, so you can work the LLI normally!
All the best,
Lili
Hi.
I’m guessing all of your dk weight yarns would work well in this pattern.
I was looking at Note and Cashmere Merino Bloom for some different color options.
Also, if the wearer is in between sizes, how should I choose a size? What else should I consider? If the person is a 38” chest but is also slender and average or short, should
I go with the smaller size?
Hi Natalie,
Yeah both Note and Cashmere Merino Bloom would be wonderful for this pattern! I think in this case I’d go with the smaller size!
All the best,
Lili
I am having trouble with the jog that occurs when I change from the purl to knit or knit to purl stitch at the beginning of a round. Is there a way to make the change less noticeable ?
Hi Carolyn,
I’m afraid that there will always be a jog when switching between knits and purls in the round! That’s because “in the round” is actually a spiral, so the end of each round is one round higher up than the beginning of the same round. It’s one of those little quirks of knitting that adds to the specialness of a handmade garment!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I’m on the home stretch with this beautiful cardigan, and so excited to wear it. Sadly, I have come unstuck at the ‘shape right back neck’ part. I’ve tried it twice, and each time, it feels like I’m knitting when I should be purling, and purling when I should be knitting. I’m knitting size 36, which, if I’m reading correctly, means that I DON’T do an extra round 5 and 6 before I divide for the back and front. This means that looking at it on the right side, I’ve just completed 2 rows of knit stitch. But now I’m turning the work and doing a row of purl… so I end up with three rows of knit on the right side? And then I turn the work again and do Short Row 1, which is another row of knit. So now I’ve got 4 knitted rows in a row (so to speak), and then from there, the ‘two rows purl, two rows knit’ rhythm picks up again. Is this right or am I making a mistake I cannot for the life of me see? Help before I go mad! Thank you!!
Hi Val,
I’m so sorry that you’re running into trouble at this spot, and I’m happy to help! You’re right that you’ll be knitting and purling on what might seem like the incorrect rows. But never fear, as long as you follow what the pattern says it’ll work out! You’re knitting flat during the short rows, so you will need to work the opposite stitch of what you have been knitting so far when you were knitting in the round.
As for the number of times you repeat Short Rows 3 – 6 for size 36, you work them initially once, and then repeat them 2 more times. That means you’ll end up working Short Rows 3 – 6 a total of three times before moving on in the pattern! After you finish the second repeat (or third total time), you work Short Rows 3 and 4 once more, and then work Next Round. And after that, you’ll be ready to begin the Shape Right Back section!
I hope this helps clarify things, but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili
Hey Lili,
I think you and I are talking about different sections of the pattern. I haven’t gotten to short row 3 yet. My question is around the last paragraph of the Right Sleeve section, where it says: repeat rounds 5-8 (33 times) (done), then work rounds 5 and 6 (0) more times (done). This means that at the point where I turn the work, (for Divide Right Back and Front) I’ve just completed 2 knit rows. Is this correct? Because then when I turn the work and do the purl row (Division Row), that makes 3 rows of knit stitches on the right side of the work. And then when I turn it again (short row 1), I’m back on the right side, and now I’m knitting again, which makes 4 rows of knit on the right side. I think I’m going mad. Thank you for your patience in trying to explain this to me. I’m sure I’m missing something and the pattern is perfect and I just can’t wrap my head around it. And now I’m so far in I can only see what I can see!
My apologies, I thought you were at the Shape Right Back Neck section! I now see what you mean about the additional row of knit stitches, and I’m going to reach out to our design team about that. I’ll follow up with you as soon as I hear back form them!
All the best,
Lili
Hi again, Val!
I want to confirm that our design team found an error in this spot and have updated the PDF. You can find the change on our Errata page, and you can download the updated version of the pattern from your Purl Soho account. Thank you again so much for bringing this to our attention!
All the best,
Lili
I just ordered Knitting Yarn for this in Purple Prune . Its occures to me that a contrast color around the large outside edges of the pieces and then down the back where it’s seamed might be fun.
Would I need more than 1 skein for a 1 inch border in size 36 do you think? Possibly the New Leaf Green to lighten it up.
Hi Ro!
That sounds like an amazing idea! I’m afraid we haven’t tried this modification though so we aren’t able to estimate just how much yarn you will need. I’d recommend getting 2 skeins just in case and we’d be happy to accept a return if you end up not using the 2nd skein. You can also read our full return policy for further details.
I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
I have made a couple of projects in a row that upon completion were just too large. Not purl soho patterns, but 2 patterns from 2 other makers. Any way, to have the end result look like the photo on the pattern, what size would I make for a 42” measurement.
Hi Kim,
I’m so sorry that your recent projects turned out too large! Did you by any chance knit up a gauge swatch before beginning? Gauge is usually the culprit for sizing issues, so I’d highly recommend swatching to make sure you achieve the pattern’s gauge. You may need to size your needles up or down to match the gauge, but once you do so, you can knit the pattern as written and it will fit perfectly! If this is daunting, we have a wonderful tutorial called All About Gauge that I’d suggest giving a look over.
All the best,
Lili
I’m up to “shape left back neck” an I purled to the marker. Do I slip or remove the marker and then do the double stitch? Then turn?
If so shouldn’t row 2 be a knit row to stay in pattern?
Hi Mimi,
You don’t need to slip or remove the marker on this row! Just keep it in the same place for the time being, and you’ll be making the double stitch with the stitch right next to the marker. Row 2 is a purl row though, since you’ll be on the next “ridge” at that point!
All the best,
Lili
I have gotten stuck in the shape left back neck section—this should be knit flat, correct? If so, as I understand short row 1, I purl to the marker on the wrong side, turn work, do double stitch, then knit to the end of the row (now facing right side) according to short row video. Then row 2 is supposed to be purl on right side, but I would need to flip to wrong side to do next row?? Sorry, I am very confused.
Hi Jenni,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m happy to help! Yes, whenever you’re working in short rows, you will be working flat. You will turn your work from the wrong side to the right side as you create the double stitch at the end of Short Row 1. Then, you knit Short Row 2, which is a wrong side row. Then, since you’re working flat, you will need to turn your work after completing Short Row 2 from the wrong side to the right side so you can begin Short Row 3, which is a right side row!
All the best,
Lili