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Weekend Tote
Look out, weekend, here you come! Designed by Aubrey Baumgartner, our free Weekend Tote knitting pattern is an easy-to-knit bag that’s structural, sturdy, and super soft in our delightfully dappled Sunshower Cotton yarn!
Depending on your weekend plans, pick from two sizes. The smaller size will fit everything you need to bop around town for an afternoon, while the larger bag can hold an overnight’s worth of take-alongs with room to spare.
Aubrey chose Sunshower Cotton for this project, a favorite yarn for knitting bags, thanks to its mix of softness, strength, and structure. Knitting with needles on the smaller side of the recommended gauge results in a dense yet supple fabric that won’t stretch and grow too much. Made with 100% organically grown cotton, this 4-ply worsted-weight yarn is machine wash- and dry-able, too, so you don’t have to be overly precious about this beautiful knit!
Choose which color you’d love to sling over your shoulder from a palette of sunny and stormy stippled shades, each color printed onto the yarn in a lovely drizzle, or pick the classic, goes-with-everything Heirloom White. Three skeins make the smaller bag, or grab five for the larger size!
There’s lots of simple, satisfying knitting ahead: You’ll begin with a flat, garter-stitch bottom, then pick up stitches around the edge to knit the body in stockinette in the round. To shape the straps, divide the stitches in half and decrease at the edges to form a comfy V, then finish with just a handful of stitches and join the straps with Kitchener Stitch. Aubrey cleverly leaned into stockinette’s natural curl here, with the top of the strap edges rolling in to create a beautifully rounded, hand-friendly handle!
As full of promise as the weekend itself, the Weekend Tote is made to carry the best kind of baggage: books, bathing suits, fresh market finds, or whatever makes your days feel wide open!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Pattern designed and written by Aubrey Baumgartner for Purl Soho. Aubrey is a New York based knitwear designer originally from Greenwood, Indiana. Geometry and bold colors drive her designs, and she draws inspiration from her love of nature, architecture, and history. Aubrey is a wife and mother to three children and loves being outdoors, singing, gardening, and doing arts and crafts with her kiddos. She hopes to one day pass her passion for knitting on to them! See more from Aubrey on her Instagram!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Want to print this pattern? On desktop, find the “print” icon in the right margin, and on mobile, scroll to the end of the pattern for it. Use the on-screen instructions to remove anything you don’t want to print!
Materials
- 3 (5) skeins of Purl Soho’s Sunshower Cotton, 100% organically grown cotton. Each skein of this worsted/aran-weight yarn is 159 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 475 (710) total yards required. We used the colors Heirloom White and Upper Atmosphere.
- US 5 (3.75 mm), 24- or 32-inch circular knitting needles, depending on size you are making
- Stitch marker
- Stitch holder or scrap yarn
GAUGE
21 stitches and 42 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
21 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
SIZES
Small (Large)
- Finished Circumference: 31½ (36¼) inches
- Finished Depth: 10¾ (14¾) inches
- Base of Bag: 12 inches wide x 3¾ inches long (13½ inches wide x 4½ inches long)
- Strap Depth: 9¾ (11) inches
SAMPLE: The Heirloom White bag is the Small size, and the Upper Atmosphere bag is the Large size.
NOTES
SLIP STITCHES
Slip stitches purlwise with yarn in back on right-side rows, and with yarn in front on wrong-side rows, unless directed otherwise.
PATTERN
BASE
Cast on 63 (71) stitches. We used a Long Tail Cast On.
NOTE: Place a removable stitch marker or piece of scrap yarn on first row to indicate right side.
Knit every row until piece measures 3¾ (4½) inches from cast-on edge and you have 20 (24) garter ridges on right side. End with a wrong-side row.
BODY
NOTE: For help with picking up stitches, visit our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial and scroll down to the Along a Vertical Edge: Garter Stitch, Between Ridges video for picking up along selvage edges, and the Along a Horizontal Edge video for picking up into the cast-on edge.
Set-Up Row (right side): K63 (71); rotate work 90 degrees clockwise, and pick up and knit 20 (24) stitches along left selvage (one stitch between every garter ridge); rotate work 90 degrees clockwise, and pick up and knit 63 (71) along cast-on edge (one stitch for each cast-on stitch); rotate work 90 degrees clockwise, and pick up and knit 20 (24) stitches along right selvage (one stitch between every garter ridge). [166 (190) total stitches]
Place unique marker and join for working in the round.
Knit every round until piece measures 9 (12½) inches from Set-Up Row.
DIVIDE FOR HANDLES
Division Round (right side): K114 (130), slip next 83 (95) stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn, removing end-of-round marker as you come to it. [83 (95) stitches remain on needles; 83 (95) stitches on hold for Second Handle]
FIRST HANDLE
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Slip 1 (see Notes), purl to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 (see Notes), k2, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to last 5 stitches, knit 2 together (k2tog), k3. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 2, purl to last 4 stitches, purl 1 through the back loop, p3, slip last 2 stitches back onto left needle and p2.
Row 3: Slip 2, k1, ssk, knit to last 5 stitches, k2tog, k3, slip last 2 stitches back onto left needle and k2. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until 9 stitches remain (35 [41] more times), then repeat Row 2 one more time.
Next Row (right side): Slip 2, k1, slip 1 knitwise with yarn in back, k1, pass slipped stitch over and off right needle, slip resulting stitch from right needle to left needle, pass second stitch on left needle over first, slip resulting stitch back to right needle, k3, slip last 2 stitches back onto left needle and k2. [7 stitches remain]
Next Row (wrong side): Slip 2, purl to end of row.
Place stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn.
Cut yarn.
SECOND HANDLE
Return 83 (95) on-hold stitches to needles and rejoin yarn, ready to work a wrong-side row.
Work as for First Handle, beginning with Set-Up Row. When finished, leave stitches on needles and cut yarn, leaving a 13-inch tail for grafting.
Slip on-hold First Handle stitches onto other end of needles, making sure Handle is not twisted.
Holding needles parallel with tips pointing to right and working stitches on front needle, use long tail and Kitchener Stitch to graft Handles together.
FINISHING
Weave in all ends. Wet block as desired.
Learn About Sunshower Cotton + All Our Beautiful Yarns
We used Sunshower Cotton for this project to show off its soft, stippled surface, like the sun shining through an afternoon drizzle! This worsted/aran-weight yarn has a very pleasant hand, both substantial and soft, as well as supple. A machine washable yarn, Sunshower Cotton is 100% organically grown cotton and absolutely wonderful for adding interest to lovely garments, blankets, baby knits, and housewares. Take a sunshower!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our inspiring collection of free Sunshower Cotton knitting patterns and cast on!
More Worsted/Aran-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of worsted/aran-weight yarn (What does worsted-weight yarn mean, really? Our guide to worsted-weight yarn will answer your questions and more!)
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial and our Yarn Substitution article for lots of helpful information.
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop cotton yarn (What helps cotton keep its cool? Learn all about this soft, natural fiber in our guide to cotton yarn!)
- Shop plant-based yarn
- Shop machine washable yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our knitting patterns (including tons of free knitting patterns) and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Looks like an excellent pattern
I wonder how heavy are the bags themselves?
Hi KT,
Great question! The smaller size requires 475 yards of Sunshower Cotton, and since that yarn comes with 159 yards per 100g skein, that size would end up weighing about 298.74 oz, or about 0.66 lb. Likewise, the larger size requires 710 yards, so it would weigh approximately 446.54 oz, or 0.98 lb.
I also want to mention that the type of yarn you use will affect the weight! Plant fibers, like cotton, are relatively heavy compared to animal fibers, like wool. So if you choose to use a different yarn than Sunshower Cotton, the finished tote will weigh slightly different!
All the best,
Lili
Is there a video tutorial available for this weekend tote?
Hi Tracy,
Can you please let us know if there’s any section of the tote you’d like clarity on? We don’t have a full video tutorial for this project, but we’re happy to help guide you in other ways!
All the best,
Zha Zha
Hi. I’m knitting the smaller bag and I’ve just finished the body and I’m about to start dividing for the handles. Do you have a video for this part? I find the wrong side/right side part confusing.
Hi Helen,
I’m afraid we haven’t made a video tutorial for this entire pattern, but we’re more than happy to help out! After the Division Round, you will be working each handle flat. That means you’ll be turning your work after every row and alternating right and wrong side rows. The side of the bag that’s facing outwards (stockinette V stitches) is the right side, and the side that’s on the inside (purl bumps) is the wrong side!
If you’d like us to demonstrate anything in this pattern, I’d recommend signing up for a free 1-On-1 Help appointment where a member of our team can meet with you over Zoom!
All the best,
Lili
Is there a printable version of the Weekend Tote pattern
Hi Melissa,
Yep, you can absolutely print this pattern out! Here’s how: If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, just click on the “Print” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you for the amazing weekend tote bag pattern. It is just what I need. I intend to make several as Christmas presents to good friends and family members. It is perfect as is but I intend to also crochet a large initial for thier first name on the center front!
Do you offer this in a crochet pattern?
Hi Lynn,
I’m afraid we haven’t designed a crochet version of this tote bag yet, but I love that idea! I’ve passed along your message to the rest of my team for future consideration!
All the best,
Lili
When you say add a stitch marker to indicate the right side row, is this after already knitting the first row, or just after casting on, ie do we end on an even or odd number of rows knit?
Hi A P,
That’s a great question! I’d recommend attaching the removable stitch marker after knitting at least the first row. That’ll give you more space to attach it to. I also like moving the stitch marker up after I’ve knit more rows just so that it’s moved more towards the middle of the right side and that way it’s more visible as you knit!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, I have the same question as AP. I understand how to put on a stitch marker, but how do we determine which side is the “right side”? As the directions are written, it appears the first side we begin knitting on (ie, after the cast on) is the “right” side, but I’m not sure. Thanks!
Hi Anne,
That is correct! Row 1 will be your right side.
Happy knitting!
Gavriella
Can’t wait to make this! I used Sunshower Cotton for the Double Thick Potholders and they’re favorites in our household; the only difficult part will be trying to decide which color to use for this tote.
Is the model in the pictures wearing a store-bought or handmade dress? Asking because it’s gorgeous and I’d love a link to the pattern if it’s handmade. <3
Hi Kira,
We’re so glad you’re eager to make this tote! The dress our model is wearing is store-bought; it’s the Garment Dyed Linen V Neck Dress from Toast!
All the best,
Lili
I am looking forward to attempting this.
Love this yarn
Please help! I am an intermediate knitter so I know just enough to be dangerous with a pair of needles, but……I am stuck at the body portion. Specifically “pick up and knit along the left selvage, rotate 90 degrees, and pick up and knit 63, etc, etc. I’ve googled how to do this to no avail. Is there a video tutorial available for this Weekend Tote bag? Or can you direct me to a site where I can visually see how to do this part?
Appreciate the help,
Tracy C
Trinity, Florida
Hi Tracy,
Happy to help! For this step, the end goal is to have live stitches all the way around the base of the tote. You’ll already have 63 live stitches on your needles, so you begin the row by knitting those, then you pick up 20 stitches along the edge that’s perpendicular to the live stitches, then 63 along the next edge of the base, and finally 20 stitches along the final edge!
I completely understand that something like this might be easier to visualize though, so I’d recommend booking a 1-On-1 Help appointment so we can demonstrate this over Zoom for you!
All the best,
Lili
Lili,
I wish we could post a picture here so I could show you I did it! Your instructions made much more sense to me:)
Thank you so much!
Tracy
Hi Tracy!
We are so happy you found Lili’s instructions helpful! You can always email us at [email protected] if you’d ever like to send in photos of your current project or ask any specific questions as well!
Happy making!
Gavriella
On right side, I knit the 63 to the end as directed, next step is to pick up 20 stitches…if I set my work down, should I be picking up with the 20 stitches with the right side up, or with the wrong side up? Thank you in advance!
Hi Brittany,
I can help you out here! That is correct, once you begin to pick up stitches again, you will want to make sure you do so with the right side facing you. Please let us know if you have any other questions along the way!
All the best,
Gavriella
I can’t find tutorials about picking up stitches while my needle is still holding live stitches, if that makes sense- the linked tutorial is a square without any needles to contend with. I’m struggling a bit to figure out how to pick up stitches (with what needle)… am I using the needle with the 63 stitches or the empty needle (I’m using circular needles) to pick up and knit? I’m maybe thinking I’d use my empty needle to pick up a stitch, then knit it onto the needle, which would then have 64 stitches… is that right? I’m so new that I need my directions to be really granular!
Hi Brittany,
You can use the same needle that holds your 63 stitches currently to pick up your stitches. Ultimately you are picking up stitches clockwise in order to gather stitches for your body which you will then begin to knit in the round after you have a total of 166 stitches. I hope this helps but we’re always available to go over this together in one of our free 1-on-1 Zoom help sessions as well!
Happy making.
Gavriella
Can you estimate how much yarn one handle will take? I’m half way through this project and am starting to wonder if I’m going to have enough yarn. I subbed Tulip Cotton for the yarn. I could stripe the body of the bag if I needed more yardage but want the handles to be the same color as the base and bottom half.
Thanks!
Hi Kathy,
Thanks for writing in! For the smaller size, you’ll need about 68 yards per handle, and for the larger size, you’ll need approximately 89 yards per handle.
The way I calculated this was first by breaking the bag down into components (base, body, handles) and calculating the surface area of each. Then I added these up to find the total surface area for the bag and created a ratio between that, the surface area of just one handle, and the original yardage. Finally, I solved for the yardage of just one handle!
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili
I am having a hard time getting the gauge correct. I have tried a US 5 and US 4 needle. Even with the size 4 needle my swatch is about 5 inches. I’m not an extremely loose knitter. Any suggestions?
Hi Teresa,
That’s concerning to hear… You might have to go down even further to a size 3 needle, but first, can you please let us know how many stitches and rows you’re getting across 4 inches on both of your swatches? It would also help to know if your gauge swatches are in garter or stockinette stitch and lastly, if you’ve blocked your swatch yet.
If you aren’t already, I also recommend casting on more stitches than your gauge calls for. This is because you always need a little extra border on each side to account for curling and a more accurate count. In this case, I recommend casting on 28 stitches.
We’ll keep an eye out for your response and go from there!
All the best,
Zha Zha
With the size 4 needle I am getting 17 stiches and 36 rows in blocked garter stitch. In blocked stockinette, I get 17 stitches and 28 rows.
I have already frogged the size 5 sample.
Thanks for your help,
Teresa
Thanks so much for letting us know! It looks like your gauge is loose, so I agree with Zha Zha’s recommendation to try a size US 3 needle next! Let us know how that turns out!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
I had to go down one size needle to a 4 and knit really tightly to get the 13.5″ width. So once I have knitted about 2+ inches, I should have 12 purl bumps. Is that correct?
Thanks
Hi Anna,
Since the garter stitch gauge for this pattern is 21 stitches and 42 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch. This means you should have 21 rows completed for 2 inches of work. I hope this helps clarify!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi Graviella,
Not really. The pattern instructs to knit 13.5″ wide and 4.5″ in length for the larger bag with 24 garter bumps, which is slightly different than the stated gauge for the project.
Hi Anna,
Happy to further clarify! If you divide the row gauge (42 rows) by 4 this will result in your rows per inch which in this case is 10.5 rows per inch. You will then multiply 10.5 x 4.5″ which results in 47.25 rows but we’ve rounded that number up to 48 rows which will give you 24 garter ridges for your base.
So if you have knitted 2″ of work, you should have knit 21 rows (2″ x 10.5).
I hope this helps and happy making!
All the best,
Gavriella
I’m fully enjoying this weekend tote. I totally love the yarn as it’s weight will provide a nice sturdy bag. I’m looking ahead to the division for the handles and I’m definitely confused. As I read it I am to knit 114 stitches and then place 83 on a stitch holder but this means that I’m exceeding my total number of stitches at 166. Am I correct that each handle begins with 83 stitches? Can you help see what part I’m interpreting incorrectly?
Hi Sue,
That’s a great observation! On the Division Round, you will end up working past your end-of-round marker for more than the total number of stitches on the round. You knit 114 stitches and then transfer the next 83 stitches onto scrap yarn, and that part will go past the end-of-round marker. You should end up with 83 live stitches and 83 on-hold stitches!
All the best,
Lili
Lilli,
Thanks so much for your reply. As you have indicated, I now see how this works out. I appreciate your response and look forward to the finished tote.
I’m confused about the handle step where it says to p3, slip last two to left needle, and purl 2. What it the purpose of this step? Is it meant to make a decorative edge? Thank you!
Hi Jessica,
That is correct! These instructions are to make sure you end up with a nice clean edge.
Happy knitting!
Gavriella
Is there any overlap between the given strap lengths and bag depths? I’m trying to decide on a size to knit. Is the overall length 20.5 for the small, and 25.75 for the large? Thanks!
Hi Irene,
That’s totally correct for the overall length of each size! You can also adjust the depth of the bag part only by knitting more ore fewer rounds before dividing for the handles.
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
Just confirming – the gauge swatch should be unblocked? Thanks!
Leah
Hi Leah,
Thanks for asking! The gauge included in this pattern is actually for a blocked swatch.
I hope this helps and happy making!
Gavriella
Does it make sense that the “right side” is on the inside of the tote? I am on the first few rows after picking up stitches and joining in the round knitting and my right side appears to be on the inside of the tote and not the outside, which I would have expected.
Hi Krista,
Thanks for writing in, and I think I can visualize what you’re describing! Could you try turning your work inside out by popping the base towards the other side? That should turn it around so that the stockinette “V” stitches are on the outside instead of the inside!
All the best,
Lili
I’m having issues with the handles. When I’ve divided for the handles the decreases are on either side of the bag not the center.
I’m not quite sure how to explain.
My end of round stitch marker for the body has been on the side of the bag. Now the triangle split also appears to be on the side of the bag and not the center.
Thank you for any help!!
Hi Emily,
We are so sorry to hear you are running into issues here. Could you please send a photo of your project to [email protected] so we can have a deeper look? We’ll be able to better visualize what’s going on that way!
All the best,
Gavriella
I’m so sorry was completely a mistake by me miscounting!
I ended up finishing the bag and it looks lovely 🙂
Thank you and sorry!
No worries at all, Emily. We are always here to help if anything comes up along the way! We are just happy you were able to complete your project!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi! Is it possible to knit this bag using “Cotton Pure” yarn or would it be considered too lightweight or not recommended?
Hi Kate,
Thanks for writing in! Cotton Pure is a sportweight yarn, so it’s significantly thinner than Sunshower Cotton. If you knit it at the gauge specified in the pattern, the knit fabric will feel very loose. But you could absolutely modify the stitch and row counts throughout the pattern to make it work for the smaller gauge you’ll probably get with Cotton Pure! You’d mainly just need to cast on more stitches for the base, work more rows, and then pick up more stitches around the base to begin the body. You’d also need to adjust the stitch counts on the Division Round for the handles to accommodate your new overall stitch count. I’m happy to help with any of these modifications if you decide to give Cotton Pure a try for this pattern!
All the best,
Lili
Hi!
Thank you so much for your response! I would love your help with the modifications as I would like to give Cotton Pure a try. (I fell in love with the idea of a Jonquil Yellow tote!) I would say that, generally, I’m an intermediate level knitter and could probably figure out the math if you give me somewhere to start. Having never done this before, I’d love your input and guidance.
Thanks! Kate
Hi Kate,
You’re very welcome! The exact modifications will depend on your gauge with Cotton Pure. Once you know how many stitches you’re getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the length of the cast-on (12 or 13 1/2 inches, depending on what size you’re making) and cast on the nearest whole number. Then you can knit the base to the specified width (either 3 3/4 or 4 1/2 inches) and pick up stitches around it. That’ll automatically give you your stitch count for the body, and then you’ll just need to divide that in half for the stitch count for each strap.
I hope this helps you get started, and I can also provide more specific numbers once you’ve swatched and settled on a size to make!
All the best,
Lili
Can I use 16″ or 32″ for the small size? I have 2 24″ circs but don’t like either of them for this lovely yarn?
Hi Diana,
Thanks for writing in! Either length should work! The finished circumference of the small size is 31 1/2, so the stitches will feel cramped on 16″ needles, but slightly stretched on 32″ needles. I’d suggest trying them both out and seeing which you prefer–you can always switch them out if you don’t like the length you start with!
All the best,
Lili
I’m so excited to try this bag but will have to substitute the yarn. Would you give some dimensions (say the size of the base, height to the start of the handles and full length), for each bag? Want to make sure I’m getting somewhere close to the correct sizing.
Thank you for sharing.
Hi Roisin,
Thanks for writing in! The dimensions of the bag (for each size) are as follows:
Finished Circumference: 31½ (36¼) inches
Finished Depth: 10¾ (14¾) inches
Base of Bag: 12 inches wide x 3¾ inches long (13½ inches wide x 4½ inches long)
Strap Depth: 9¾ (11) inches
Please let me know if there are any other measurements that you’d find helpful to have on hand as you begin your project!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili! That’s so helpful.
When working handles do you slip stitch as in the note section
Hi Jayne,
Yep, you will slip all slipped stitches purlwise with yarn in back on right-side rows, and with yarn in front on wrong-side rows, unless directed otherwise!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! When getting to the end of a handle row after knitting two together and then knitting 3, how do you slip the stitches back onto the other needle, knitwise, or purlwise? It’s looking kind of odd when I’ve been slipping them purlwise with the yarn in the back, but it might just be a tension issue.
Hi Danielle,
Great question! In this pattern, you will want to slip the slipped stitches purlwise with yarn in back on right-side rows, and with yarn in front on wrong-side rows, unless directed otherwise.
It usually takes a number of rows for the tension to even out when you’re knitting edges that involve slipped stitches, so I’d give it a little bit more time! If the edge is still looking odd after a few more rows, I’d love to take a closer look. You can send a photo of your work to [email protected]!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili, it definitely evened out eventually. I’ve finished the bag and it turned out beautifully!
I’m a very experienced knitter, yet I’m confused about the instructions which read: p3, slip last 2 stitches back onto left needle and p2. I’ve never encountered this in a pattern and I’m stymied about how I bring the yarn back around to purl the stitches again without pulling the yarn to create two stitches on the needle like in a German Short Row. I must be missing something
Hi Jennie,
Thanks for asking about this! It’s definitely an uncommon technique, and I’m happy to help clarify how it should be worked. You actually don’t need to do anything special with the working yarn after you transfer the stitches back to the left needle! You can begin purling where it is, although it will definitely feel awkward for the first stitch. The result of this technique is something similar to 2-stitch I-cord edge, so you should end up with a “float” in front of those two final stitches. Hope this helps clear things up, and please don’t hesitate to let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili
I am also confused by this step. Will the float be on the purl (wrong) side or on the knit (right side of the bag?
Hi Teresa,
Your float will always be on the wrong side! Please let us know if you have any other questions though!
Warmly,
Gavriella
Hello , I am at the point in the pattern and trying to figure out “slip last 2 stitches back onto left needle and P2 ” or K2 depending if working row 2 or 3 . When I searched how to do this it says to knit or purl the two stitches together but I do not know if this is correct. Please help.
Hi Odete,
Thank you for writing in! That is correct, you will NOT knit or purl these stitches together. These stitches are to help give your project a nice clean edge.
Happy making!
Gavriella
Thank you so much. I have just finished the project and it turned out great.
Odete
Hi, I am on the part:
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 2, purl to last 4 stitches, purl 1 through the back loop, p3, slip last 2 stitches back onto left needle and p2.
I am confused about the part last 4 stitches. How should I do the last 4 stitches? The instruction is not very clear. Please help.
Hi Savita,
Happy to help out with this part of the pattern! For the p1 though the back loop, that’s just like a regular purl stitch, except you put your right needle through the back loop of the stitch, rather than the front loop. Other than that though, you complete it like a regular purl! Then, you purl the last 3 stitches. After that, you transfer the final two stitches from your right needle back to your left needle and purl them again! It’s a bit unconventional, but it’s one of those pattern instructions that is exactly what it sounds like, even if it sounds weird! I’d recommend giving it a try, but if you’re still running into trouble, I’d recommend booking a 1-On-1 Help appointment where a member of our team can demonstrate exactly what to do over Zoom.
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
Thank you so much for your help. I got it now.
Hi I posted here at least a week ago (now I don’t see it) and I emailed you with photos about needed help getting the knitting going after the picking up stitches. It seems screwy when I try to start the knitting. I am at a total standstill. Really thought this would not be too complicated. How does one get help on your patterns?
Hi Lisa,
We’re so sorry you are running into trouble here. I actually sent you an email reply on August 7th with some helpful diagrams that I think will better explain this section. Could you please let me know if you have had a chance to check for that reply? It may also be in your spam or promotions folder just in case you haven’t checked there but I will keep an eye out for your reply!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi, I am ready to knit the handles. I don’t understand how the set-up row can be purled as everything is a right side row from knitting in the round. If I turn my project to the purl side, the yarn is not in the right place to purl. What am I doing wrong? Thank you!
Hi Joan,
Thank you for writing in! We’re happy to help get you back on track. In this section of the pattern, you are both knitting and placing stitches on hold. This means that once you are ready to work the set up row, you can simply turn your work to begin working on the wrong side of your work in which your yarn should be on the right side of your stitches ready to purl. I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Gavriella
Thanks Gavriella. Every time I think I’ve got it, I don’t. I’m going to sign up for one-on-one help. I shouldn’t be allowed to knit alone!
Hi Joan,
Oh no! I’m so sorry that wasn’t more helpful. We’d be happy to assist you over a 1-on-1 though! Sometimes working these things through together is a little more helpful. We look forward to meeting with you!
Warmly,
Gavriella
Hi,
I am having a similar problem that Joan had. I’ve separated my stitches and am ready to begin the set up row of the handles but the “v” stitch is on the outside of the bag and the working yarn is on the left side. The only way to have the working yarn on the right side would be to turn the bag inside out….is that correct?
Thanks!
Hi Debbie,
Thanks for reaching out. While you don’t necessarily need to turn your bag inside out, you do need to turn your work to begin working on the wrong side. Once you do that, your yarn will be to your right and ready to purl your set up row. Please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hello! I am loving this pattern and am really impressed by your patience as you provide help. It’s my turn to put my hand up! I have just finished the first handle and have transferred my reserved stitches back to the needles. But how do I rejoin the yarn? I assume I just slip the first stitch and then try to purl in from the “new’ working ball of yarn … but when i tried it, it seemed flimsy. Am i missing something (I could only find videos of joining yarn when there is still working yarn).
Hi Wendy,
Thank you for writing in! This step might seem a little fiddly at first but it sounds like you are right on track. If you feel the stitch is a little too loose, you could always give it a gentle tug after you reconnect your working yarn. I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Gavriella
I’m wondering why the body I’m working on doesn’t look like the body in the picture. I’m knitting every row like the pattern says to… is it actually supposed to be garter stitch? Purl?
Hi Danielle,
We are so sorry that you are running into issues here. Could you please send a photo of your project to [email protected] so we can have a deeper look? We’ll be able to better visualize what’s going on that way!
All the best,
Gavriella
I wish I could but I already ripped it out to start over! I’m going to try again and I’ll let you know what I did wrong, lol.
Oh nooo! So sorry you had to start over. If you run into any trouble, please reach out to us again and we will do our best to get you back on track!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi! I think I may be counting wrong. I’m ready to divide for the handles, and knit 114 stitches. When I count the next set of stitches up to the stitch marker, there are 63 stitches. Somehow-and I‘ll go back and count again, but I’m pretty sure I have 177 stitches total instead of 166. After reading the pattern again, I believe I should be counting beyond the stitch marker to get to 83. However, since I have 10 extra stitches, should I be dividing 177? Will that throw off instructions for the rest of the pattern? TIA.
Hi Kiris,
That should be totally fine! I’d recommend adding one more stitch so you can split the 177 into two for your handles and then just work the pattern as is. You can either have a thicker handle or decrease a few more rows for a longer handle.
Happy knitting!
Gavriella
Thanks for the quick reply! Turns out, I had the right number of stitches, so I can continue with the pattern as designed.
I love this pattern but I’m having difficulty understanding the pattern for making the divide for the handles. It says K114 then place 83 stitches on stitch holder (for a total of 197 stitches). I am making the small one and only have 166 stitches on my needle! Please help.
Hi Joanne,
Thank you for writing in! I see the alarm here but you are actually right on track! After you complete the K114, you will then add the next 83 stitches onto your holder. That means you will have 83 stitches left on your needles and 83 on the holder for a total of 166 stitches total. I hope this helps clarify but please let us know if you need anything else!
All the best,
Gavriella
I am ready to start the ‘handle’ of this bag.
Row 1 says Slip 1….K2tog, k3. Then says [2 stitches decreased].
That is the part I’m confused with.
K2tog is the Only decreased that I see; which ends with a [1 stitch
decrease]….
I don’t want to end up with TOO long of a bag getting the handles down to ‘9 stitches remaining’.
I apologize for taking your time,
Terry/Oregon
Hi Terry,
Thanks for reaching out! The decreases in row 1 should read as follows:
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 (see Notes), k2, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to last 5 stitches, knit 2 together (k2tog), k3. [2 stitches decreased]
I worry there may be a bit of instruction missing from your pattern. Could you please reach out to us at [email protected] so that we can help get you the correct version of this pattern. We’d love to be able to help you complete your project!
All the best,
Gavriella
can you recommend another yarn, the one that is linked is always out of stock on the colors that I want. thanks!
Hi Shannon,
We’re so sorry you have not been able to get the colors you’d like for your project! As an alternative, June Worsted would be a great option. Please let us know if there is anything else we can answer for you!
All the best,
Gavriella