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Growing Garden Cardigan
Blossoming with happy little buds of color, Sandi Rosner’s free Growing Garden Cardigan knitting pattern for babies and toddlers combines our new 100-gram balls of Cotton Chirp DK yarn with our popular four-color bundles of Cotton Chirp DK Minis… Big and little playing side by side, just like the knitter and the wee sprout you’re knitting for!
You’ll use the 100-gram yarn balls as the background color, with a few furrowed rows of garter stitch at the neck, hem, cuffs, and button band. The bundle of Minis acts as the seeds you scatter, forming staggered rows of textured purl bumps. Thanks to simple slip stitches, you only need to work one color per row, making this a gentle, joyful first step into colorwork knitting!
If you’ve always wanted to knit a colorwork sweater, this is a great place to start. The technique is easy, the scale is small, and Sandi’s straightforward top-down pattern walks you through every single step.
Our 100-gram balls of Cotton Chirp DK are the grown-up counterparts to our Cotton Chirp DK Minis. They come in the same brilliant palette of 32 colors, and they’re the exact same amazing 100% Peruvian Pima cotton yarn. Unbelievably soft, wonderfully durable, and machine washable, too, this isn’t your garden-variety cotton yarn!
Pick up one or two 100-gram balls of Cotton Chirp DK and choose any of our 8 four-color bundles of Cotton Chirp DK Minis, like Wild Poppy (above), blooming with bold warmth, or Ebb Tide, a bouquet of cornflower, hydrangea, forget-me-not, and delphinium.
The Growing Garden Cardigan pattern comes in four sizes, for tiny newborns and busy garden explorers up to 24 months. Simple, engaging, and cheerful… Knit a colorful little world you grow stitch by stitch!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed for Purl Soho by Sandi Rosner. Based in South Carolina, Sandi has been a knitter and crocheter for more than 45 years. She has owned a local yarn store, been the creative director of a large yarn company, and worked as a freelance technical editor, designer, teacher, and writer. Sandi writes a popular weekly newsletter on Substack called A Good Yarn. Thank you for sharing your talent and expertise with us, Sandi! See more from Sandi on her Ravelry.
Story written by Andrea Lotz for Purl Soho.
Want to print this pattern? On desktop, find the “print” icon in the right margin, and on mobile, scroll to the end of the pattern for it. Use the on-screen instructions to remove anything you don’t want to print!
Materials
- Main Color (MC): 1 (2, 2, 2) ball(s) of Purl Soho’s Cotton Chirp DK, 100% Peruvian Pima cotton. Each ball of this Light Worsted/DK-weight yarn is 232 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 230 (300, 380, 445) total yards required. We used Heirloom White.
- Contrast Colors (CC’s): 1 bundle of Purl Soho’s Cotton Chirp DK Minis, 100% Peruvian Pima cotton. Each bundle includes four 58 yards/ 25-gram balls. We used the Ebb Tide and Wild Poppy bundles.
- CC1: Approximately 20 (25, 30, 35) total yards required
- CC2: Approximately 30 (30, 45, 50) total yards required
- CC3: Approximately 25 (40, 40, 50) total yards required
- CC4: Approximately 15 (25, 25, 30) total yards required
- US 6 (4 mm), 24-inch circular knitting needles
- A set of US 6 double pointed needles
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A stitch marker
- 4 (4, 5, 5) buttons, ⅜-inches in diameter. We used Purl Soho’s Small Corozo Buttons in Pale Oats.
GAUGE
22 stitches and 40 rows = 4 inches in Dotted Stripe Pattern, Flat (see Stitch Patterns)
SIZES
NOTE: For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Your Size Tutorial!
Newborn (6–12 Months, 12–18 Months, 18–24 Months)
To fit actual chest circumference of 15-16 (17-18, 19-20, 21-22) inches, with approximately 1–2 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 17 (19½, 21, 23½) inches, buttoned
- Finished Body Length from Bottom Edge to Underarm: 4½ (5¼, 5¾, 6½) inches
- Finished Body Length from Bottom Edge to Top of Shoulder: 9 (10, 11¼, 12½) inches
- Finished Sleeve Length from Underarm: 5¼ (6½, 7, 8¼) inches
SAMPLES: The Ebb Tide sweater shown here is size Newborn, and the Wild Poppy sweater is size 12–18 months.
NOTES
CONSTRUCTION
You will work this cardigan flat in one piece from the Collar down. At the Armholes, you will put the Sleeve stitches on hold and continue the Body to the lower edge. You will then work the Sleeves in the round down to the Cuffs.
SLIP STITCHES
Slip all stitches purlwise.
CHANGING COLORS
When switching yarns throughout pattern, do not cut Main Color unless instructed. Simply drop the old yarn in front and pick up the new yarn from the back.
Cut Contrast Colors between stripes, leaving tails to weave in.
STITCH PATTERNS
NOTE: Because you’ll be referencing these stitches throughout the pattern instructions, we highly recommend printing this pattern out so you don’t have to scroll back and forth. You’ll find some helpful tips for printing above the Materials section!
DOTTED STRIPE PATTERN, FLAT
(Worked flat over a multiple of 2 stitches plus 1)
Row 1 (right side): With Contrast Color 1 (CC1), k2, *slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib), k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 2: Continuing with CC1, k2, *slip 1 with yarn in front (wyif), k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 3: With Main Color (MC), knit to end of row.
Row 4: Continuing with MC, k1, purl to last stitch, k1.
Rows 5 and 6: Repeat Rows 3 and 4 one more time.
Row 7: With CC2, k1, *slip 1 wyib, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 8: Continuing with CC2, k1, *slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 9: With MC, knit to end of row.
Row 10: Continuing with MC, k1, purl to last stitch, k1.
Rows 11 and 12: Repeat Rows 9 and 10 one more time.
Rows 13-18: Using CC3, repeat Rows 1-6.
Rows 19-24: Using CC4, repeat Rows 7-12.
Rows 25-30: Using CC3, repeat Rows 1-6.
Rows 31-36: Using CC2, repeat Rows 7-12.
Repeat Rows 1–36 for pattern.
DOTTED STRIPE PATTERN, IN THE ROUND
(Worked in the round over a multiple of 2 stitches)
Round 1: With CC1, *slip 1 wyib, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 2: Continuing with CC1, *slip 1 wyib, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 3–6: With MC, knit to end of round.
Round 7: With CC2, *k1, slip 1 wyib, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 8: Continuing with CC2, *p1, slip 1 wyib, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 9–12: With MC, knit to end of round.
Rounds 13-18: Using CC3, repeat Rounds 1-6.
Rounds 19-24: Using CC4, repeat Rounds 7-12.
Rounds 25-30: Using CC3, repeat Rounds 1-6.
Rounds 31-36: Using CC2, repeat Rounds 7-12.
Repeat Rows 1–36 for pattern.
PATTERN
COLLAR
With Main Color (MC), cast 55 (57, 59, 61) stitches onto circular needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Starting with a wrong-side row…
Knit 3 rows.
YOKE
NOTE: For a version of the Yoke pattern with every row written out, check out this PDF!
Increase Row 1 (right side): K3 (6, 2, 4), [make 1 left (m1L), k7 (5, 5, 4)] 7 (9, 11, 13) times, m1L, knit to end of row. [63 (67, 71, 75) stitches]
Next Row (wrong side): K1, purl to last stitch, k1.
Begin to work in Dotted Stripe Pattern, Flat (see Notes), increasing every few rows as follows…
Work 4 rows in pattern (Rows 1–4).
Increase Row 2 (right side): With MC, k6 (5, 7, 6), [m1L, k3] 17 (19, 19, 21) times, m1L, knit to end of row. [81 (87, 91, 97) stitches]
Work 5 rows in pattern (Rows 6–10).
Increase Row 3 (right side): With MC, k6 (5, 7, 6), [m1L, k4] 17 (19, 19, 21) times, m1L, knit to end of row. [99 (107, 111, 119) stitches]
Work 5 rows in pattern (Rows 12–16).
Increase Row 4 (right side): With MC, k7 (6, 8, 7), [m1L, k5] 17 (19, 19, 21) times, m1L, knit to end of row. [117 (127, 131, 141) stitches]
Work 5 rows in pattern (Rows 18–22).
Increase Row 5 (right side): With MC, k7 (6, 8, 7), [m1L, k6] 17 (19, 19, 21) times, m1L, knit to end of row. [135 (147, 151, 163) stitches]
Work 5 rows in pattern (Rows 24–28).
Increase Row 6 (right side): With MC, k8 (7, 9, 8), [m1L, k7] 17 (19, 19, 21) times, m1L, knit to end of row. [153 (167, 171, 185) stitches]
Beginning with Row 30 of Dotted Stripe Pattern, Flat, work 9 (15, 21, 27) more rows in pattern, ending with Row 2 (8, 14, 20). [Piece measures approximately 4¼ (5, 5½, 6) inches from cast-on edge]
DIVIDE BODY + SLEEVES
NOTE: To cast on the Underarm stitches, use a Make 1 Backwards Loop. Our tutorial shows you how!
Division Row (right side): With MC, k22 (25, 25, 28), place next 32 (34, 36, 36) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Sleeve, cast on 2 (4, 8, 8) stitches for Underarm, k45 (49, 49, 57), place next 32 (34, 36, 36) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Sleeve, cast on 2 (4, 8, 8) stitches for Underarm, k22 (25, 25, 28). [93 (107, 115, 129) stitches remain for Body]
BODY
Beginning with Row 4 (10, 16, 22) of Dotted Stripe Pattern, Flat, work 41 (47, 53, 59) more rows, ending with Row 8 (20, 32, 8). [Piece measures approximately 4¼ (4¾, 5½, 6) inches from Underarms]
With MC, knit 4 rows even.
With right side facing you, bind off knitwise.
Cut yarn.
SLEEVES
Place one set of on-hold Sleeve stitches onto three double pointed needles, distributing stitches as evenly as possible.
Round 1: With MC and beginning at center of Underarm cast-on edge, pick up and knit 1 (2, 4, 4) stitch(es) from cast-on edge, k32 (34, 36, 36), pick up and knit 1 (2, 4, 4) more stitch(es) from cast-on edge. [34 (38, 44, 44) total stitches]
Place marker and join to work in the round.
Beginning with Round 4 (10, 16, 22) of Dotted Stripe Pattern, In The Round (see Notes), work 47 (59, 65, 77) more rounds in pattern, ending with Round 14 (32, 8, 26). [Sleeve measures approximately 4¾ (6, 6½, 7¾) inches from Underarm]
CUFF
With MC…
Round 1: [K3 (4, 4, 4), knit 2 together (k2tog)] 6 times, knit to end of round. [28 (32, 38, 38) stitches remain]
Round 2: Purl to end of round.
Round 3: Knit to end of round.
Next Round: Repeat Round 2.
Bind off knitwise.
Cut yarn.
Repeat for other Sleeve.
RIGHT BUTTON BAND
Weave in all ends on Right Front.
Orient piece with right side of Front facing you and Right Front selvage at top.
With MC and circular needle, pick up and knit 52 (60, 66, 72) stitches (approximately 3 stitches for every 5 rows) along Right Front selvage, from bottom corner to Collar.
Row 1 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): K28 (36, 36, 42), [k2tog, yarn over, slip slip knit, k2] 4 (4, 5, 5) times. [48 (56, 61, 67) stitches remain]
Row 3: K3, [knit front and back (kfb), k4] 3 (3, 4, 4) times, kfb, knit to end of row. [52 (60, 66, 72) stitches]
With right side facing you, bind off knitwise.
Cut yarn.
LEFT BUTTON BAND
Orient piece with right side facing you and Left Front selvage at top.
With MC, pick up and knit 52 (60, 66, 72) stitches along Left Front selvage from Collar to bottom corner.
Starting with a wrong-side row…
Knit 3 rows.
With right side facing you, bind off knitwise.
Cut yarn.
Sew buttons to Left Button Band to correspond with buttonholes.
FINISHING
Weave in all ends and gently wet block.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Learn About Cotton Chirp DK Minis + All Our Beautiful Yarns
Our 25-gram Cotton Chirp DK Minis are the perfect cotton yarn for your most cheerful knitting! Think playful colorwork, like stripes or log cabin projects, and also piles of small knits, like baby booties and washcloths. In bundles of 4 coordinating colors, this light worsted/DK-weight yarn is made from 100% Peruvian Pima cotton, which has a lustrous finish and an incredibly soft and supple hand. And for larger amounts of the same yarn in the same colors, be sure to pick up our 100-gram balls of Cotton Chirp DK!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Explore our growing collection of free Cotton Chirp DK knitting patterns and cast on!
More Light Worsted/DK-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of light worsted/DK-weight yarns (What does DK-weight yarn mean, really? Our guide to DK yarn will answer your questions and demystify.)
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial and our Yarn Substitution article for lots of helpful information.
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
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Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our knitting patterns (including tons of free knitting patterns) and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Lovely! Just the pattern I need for a sweet new baby! Thank you!!
I love this, and would love to make it for a bunch of grandkids- but I have a few toddlers. Anyway you could provide sizing for 2-6 year olds?
Hi Audrey,
I’m so happy that you love this pattern! I’m afraid that we’ve only designed baby sizes at the moment, but I’ll certainly pass along your interest in seeing larger sizes to our design team.
In the meantime, you could try modifying the pattern by working more increase rows to make the yoke larger. Once you reach your desired size for that, you’d just need to divide for the sleeves and body sections using different stitch counts to account for the larger size. Happy to help out along the way if you decide to do this!
All the best,
Lili
This cardigan is so cute but I just cannot stand color work! How much yarn (Pepper perhaps?) would I need to knit the 6-12 mo size in a solid color? Thanks!
Hi Carrie,
You’ll need a total of 420 yards to knit this cardigan in just one color! That would equate to just about 2 skeins of Pepper!
All the best,
Lili
If I wanted to use this stripe pattern for a baby blanket how many bundles of yarn do you think you’d need? I love the pattern!
Hi Pam,
That’s such a fun idea! We typically design baby blankets to measure approximately 28 by 32 inches. Do those dimensions sound like what you’re aiming for? If so, then you’d need about 4 100g skeins and 2 4-color bundles of Cotton Chirp to make it in this stitch pattern. Let me know if you had a different size in mind though!
All the best,
Lili
Lovely! Will you make this pattern for adult sizes? Please do!
Hi Maithilee,
Thank you! We haven’t designed adult sizes yet, but I will absolutely pass along your interest in seeing that to our design team!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
I’d be interested in an adult size too!
Warmly,
Denice
I’d love to knit this for a favorite toddler, but don’t want to do the color work. I’m a beginner/advanced beginner – can someone help me to figure out the pattern without the color work?
Thanks so much!
Hello,
Thanks for writing in, and fortunately, this pattern is super easy to knit in just one color! All you’ll need to do is follow the instructions as written, but ignore the parts about using different colors. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Any chance there is an adult-sizes version of this pattern available? Or in the works?
Hi Barclay,
There aren’t adult sizes yet, but I’ll put in a word with our design team about developing them in the future!
All the best,
Lili
I would like to knit this for an older child, 3-4 years old. Your thoughts and ideas?
Hi Dorian,
While we haven’t designed larger sizes for this cardigan yet, you could try modifying the pattern! By working more increase rows, you can make the yoke as large as you need it to be. Then, you’d just need to divide for the sleeves and body sections using different stitch counts to account for the larger size. Hope this gives you some ideas for your project!
All the best,
Lili
Can you make this sweater for older bigger kids? How would I do this?
Hi Karin,
We haven’t yet made larger sizes for this pattern, but you could try modifying the pattern! I’d recommend starting out by working more increase rows which will allow you to make the yoke as large as you need it to be. Then, you’ll also want to divide for the sleeves and body sections using different stitch counts to account for the larger size. Happy to help further along the way!
All the best,
Lili
Please create this pattern for adult sizes!
Hi MP,
Larger sizes are certainly on our mind! Our design team is in discussion about this right now!
All the best,
Lili
This is adorable! Do you think I can expand this proportionately for a size 6? Has anyone tried it in a child size? Absolutely beautiful.
Hi Marybeth,
Thanks so much! I’m afraid we haven’t made larger sizes for this pattern yet, but you could try modifying the pattern. I’d recommend starting out by working more increase rows which will allow you to make the yoke as large as you need it to be. Then, you’ll also want to divide for the sleeves and body sections using different stitch counts to account for the larger size. Hope this helps you get started!
All the best,
Lili
How are the ends woven I ? I’m afraid it would look messy.
Hi Judi,
Great question! I would recommend weaving your ends in using duplicate stitch on the wrong side for this pattern. The stitch pattern is primarily stockinette, so you can follow the instructions shown in our Weaving In Your Ends tutorial, and it will come out great! This is a very secure and neat way to weave in ends.
All the best,
Lili
I call for toddler sizes!!
Hi Betsy,
You call has been heard! I’ve let our design team know that there’s a lot of interest in seeing larger sizes of this pattern!
All the best,
Lili
I love this beautiful design!
As another knitter requested, I would also like to have this pattern in adult sizes as well as a pull-over version.
I haven’t done colorwork yet, and this looks like a perfect pattern to start learning.
Hi Cherie,
Yay, we’re so glad! I’ll add a pullover version to the list of ideas as well!
All the best,
Lili
How can I convert to a pull over.
Hi Sondra,
That’s a great question! The general rule of thumb when converting something from “flat” (like a cardigan) to “in the round” (like a pullover) is to “flip” the wrong side rows. In the round, you only work the right side of the fabric, so any wrong side instructions should be changed to their corresponding opposite. For example, a wrong side purl row becomes a knit row.
The process can get especially complicated when converting a garment though, so we recommend giving it a try and if it’s too much, we can find a pullover pattern ready to go that’s better for you!
All the best,
Zha Zha
I’m happily awaiting pattern sizing for toddlers so that I order the correct amount of yarn! Thanks for responding to the call for instructions for larger sizes.
Hey! I’m going to make it for a baby–6 months! Happily I’ve grown up on Elizabeth Zimmerman and have a fair amount of experience in sizing up this type of sweater!
Hello designer team,
I love this pattern. I see that other knitters have also requested to have larger sizes. I too would like to knit this cardigan for an adult. I know that you don’t have it for larger sizes, so for now I will wait patiently and maybe try to do a toddler one to try the pattern. Thanks
Hi Gabriela,
Thank you so much for your patience! Hopefully, larger sizes will be in the works soon!
All the best,
Lili
Hi just received my yarn and ready to get started 😄
Just want to make sure the colors are color fast and won’t run on the white🥹
Hi Ileana,
So exciting! We didn’t find any issues with colors bleeding when we did our own color fastness test so you should be good to start work on this cardigan straight away.
All the best,
Zha Zha
I am getting ready to start the sweater, but I’m confused about the instructions. For example, row two in the dotted pattern design calls for the following: Continuing with CC1, *slip 1 wyib, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
But in the section below where you actually start the pattern, it says Row 2 is an increase row and says to Increase Row 2 (right side): With MC, k6 (5, 7, 6), [m1L, k3] 17 (19, 19, 21) times, m1L, knit to end of row. [81 (87, 91, 97) stitches]
I’m confused what to do. Similarly for other “ increase rows”.
Hi Nancy,
I’m glad you wrote in and would happy to help clarify this section! Increase Row 2 is not actually row two in this case. It’s the second time you’ll do an increase. Unfortunately you’ll have to scroll up and down a bit, so it may help to read the beginning of the pattern like so instead.
With Main Color (MC), cast 55 (57, 59, 61) stitches onto circular needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Knit 3 rows.
Increase Row 1 (right side): K3 (6, 2, 4), [make 1 left (m1L), k7 (5, 5, 4)] 7 (9, 11, 13) times, m1L, knit to end of row. [63 (67, 71, 75) stitches]
Next Row (wrong side): K1, purl to last stitch, k1.
I would consider all of the above as set up rows, not rows you’re counting out yet. After you follow the first 4 rows in the Dotted Stripe Pattern (found by scrolling up), you will consider Increase Row 2 (the second time you’re making an increase) as row 5. After Increase Row 2, you’ll scroll back up and work rows 6 through 10, followed by Increase Row 3, which is consequently also row 11.
I hope that helps you continue, but please don’t hesitate to let me know if you still have any questions!
All the best,
Zha Zha
Ok. That kinda makes sense. I’ll try it.
But how will I do a gauge? Just follow the dotted strip pattern, flat for about 4 inches and ignore the increases?
Hi Nancy,
Awesome, let us know how it goes! To make a gauge swatch, you can follow the DOTTED STRIPE PATTERN, FLAT instructions in the NOTES section (but you don’t need to change the CC color). This stitch pattern works over any odd number of stitches, so I’d recommend casting on 29 stitches so you end up with an approximately 5 by 5-inch swatch!
All the best,
Lili
Can you please give me the color names that correspond to the contrast colors in Wild Poppy minis.
Hi Judith,
The Wild Poppy bundle contains the following colors: Fresh Guava, Campfire Orange, Warm Maple, and Firecracker Red. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
The terminology is confusing. For example, under DOTTED STRIPE PATTERN, FLAT, on the line for Rows 5 and 6, it’s redundant to say, “Repeat Rows 3 and 4 one more time.” At first I thought it meant to work Rows 3 and 4 twice. It would have been better to write, “Rows 5 and 6 are the same as 3 and 4.”
Hi Ann,
I’m so sorry about that, and I can absolutely see how that wording would be confusing! I’ve passed along your message so that we can bring it up with our design team. Please let me know if there’s anything else I can help out with in the meantime!
All the best,
Lili
i have been hung up on this wording for 3 weeks I’ve tinked back twice and put the sweater in time out, maybe i can do it now
Hi Rose,
I’m so sorry you’ve been running into trouble in this pattern! I hope the comment above is helpful, but please let me know if there’s anything else I can do to help you move forward in your project!
All the best,
Lili
This is my first venture into color work and I’m kind of obsessed now. I have a friend who is now expecting her hard-fought-and-very-wanted first child…I knit the Simply The Best Cardigan for Babies earlier this year while she was trying to conceive and sure enough, she conceived! So now I’m knitting this as an additional welcome gift for precious baby.
I second the calls for having an adult version of this. But I also love the overall pattern of it, colorwise, that I think I can make a blanket quite well with this technique (and probably a weightier yarn – as I can’t spend the next 5 years knitting it 🙂 ).
Thanks again for offering these amazing patterns for us to enjoy!
Hi Michaela,
That’s so sweet that you’re knitting an extra sweater for your friend’s future baby! Thank you for your kind words, and have fun knitting 🙂
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for your reply, Lili! I have another question.
After the instruction that starts “Beginning with Row 30 of Dotted Stripe Pattern, Flat . . . ,“ we’re given the approximate length from the cast-on edge, but not how many stitches there should now be on the needle. The previous number was [153 (167, 171, 185) stitches]. It would be helpful to know how many stitches we should have just before the section DIVIDE BODY + SLEEVES. Thanks!
Hi Ann!
You’ll have the same number of stitches as you did after the final Increase Row. The Dotted Stripe Pattern, Flat doesn’t increase or decrease any stitches, so your stitch count will stay constant throughout!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
It seems to me that the Dotted Stripe Pattern, Flat DOES increase stitches. I am working the yoke under that right now and have 141 stitches on my needles. Is it when I go to repeat rows 1-36 that I stop increasing? Or when I begin with Row 30 (which is the same as row 6) and work flat for 27 more rows? Honestly, there is no need for this pattern to be written in this way when it could have been written more clearly and tested. I am big fan of Purl Soho and it’s patterns, but this one is anything but clear. Thank you for your assistance.
Hi Kathy,
I’m so sorry you’ve run into difficulties with this pattern, and I’m more than happy to help clarify things! The Dotted Stripe Pattern, Flat instructions that are printed in the Notes section of the pattern do not contain any increase stitches, so your stitch count will remain the same whenever you work any of the rows from that stitch pattern. The increases only occur on the Increase Rows within the Yoke section! These Increase Rows are interspersed between the rows of the Dotted Stripe Pattern, Flat, so you will end up working in that stitch pattern while increasing. You will stop increasing after you have completed Increase Row 6! After that, you will begin with Row 30 of the Dotted Stripe Pattern, Flat and continue in that pattern only, with no more Increase Rows, so your stitch count will remain the same from then until you divide for the sleeves.
I hope this helps clear up how the yoke shaping works for this pattern, but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili
Please tell me how to print only the pattern. I forget. I cannot do it off the screen only. Thanks.
Hi Anne,
Here’s how you can print our free patterns! If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, just click on the “Print” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window!
All the best,
Lili
Can you tell me the names of the colors in order (cc1,cc2,cc3,cc4) that match with the sweater in the picture?
Hi Mary Ellen,
Thank you for asking! For the Ebb Tide bundle we used the following,
CC1: Seven Seas Blue
CC2: Soft Blue
CC3: Clear Turquoise
CC4: Deep Verdigris
And for the Wild Poppy Bundle we used:
CC1: Warm Maple
CC2: Campfire Orange
CC3: Fresh Guava
CC4: Firecracker Red
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
Gavriella
What a beautiful sweater! For the photo made with the Wild Poppy yarn can you give the order of the yarn colors used in the picture? I can’t seem to match up the yarn order from the pattern to the photo and I really love the way the colors are alternated in the photo.
Hi Dianna,
Thank you for asking! For the Wild Poppy bundle, we used:
CC1: Warm Maple
CC2: Campfire Orange
CC3: Fresh Guava
CC4: Firecracker Red
Please let us know if you have any questions along the way!
All the best,
Gavriella
hi THere
love this pattern so far
am almost ready to start sleeve
am making 6-12 mo size
the body for this size after dviding stitches for arms has 47 rows, but for the sleeves it says to do 59 more rounds of pattern
is this correct? or should the sleeves also be 47 rows? Just want to make sure, seems like sleeves might be too long with 59 rounds.
Thank you so much
patty
Hi Patty,
Thank you for writing in! Since the curve of a circular yoke sets the sleeve just a bit higher than where the body stitches start, you need to work more rounds in the sleeve section after separating. I find it easiest to compare the lengths from the underarm in both the body and the sleeves to see how the sleeves are meant to be just a bit longer. From the underarms, your body should measure about 4¼ (4¾, 5½, 6) inches, while the sleeve stitches should measure about 4¾ (6, 6½, 7¾). This helps compare how the sleeves should have just a bit more length for the sweater to work out proportionally.
I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
I love this pattern but I’m having a little trouble and need some clarification. The increase row 6 uses the main color. The next instruction says to begin with row 30 and continue for 27 rows, ending on row 20. Row 30 is worked in the main color but row 31 corresponds to row 2 which is worked in a contrast color. This leaves me with only two rows of main color between the contrast color rows instead of 4 rows of main color between the contrast color rows. I must be missing something. Can you clarify? I’m making the 18-24 month size
Thank you.
Hi Annemarie,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m happy to clarify! Increase Row 6 is the third MC row in the section of four MC rows between CC rows. The instruction that precedes this increase row is: “Work 5 rows in pattern (Rows 24–28).” Rows 27 and 28 correspond to Rows 3 and 4 of the DOTTED STRIPE PATTERN, FLAT, which are the first two MC rows. Then you work Increase Row 6, which is the third MC row, and after that, you work Row 30, which corresponds with Row 6, which is the fourth MC row. So in total, you will still have four MC rows between CC rows at this point!
All the best,
Lili
thank You
this pattern is just adorable, very fun to knit too.
I so appreciate the help.
sincerely
patty
You are so welcome! Happy knitting!
Hi, I so enjoyed knitting this for my granddaughter, who is arriving in August. I’m stuck on the button band. If I orient the piece as stated in the pattern, right side front facing me to pick up stitches, it only works if I pick them up from the collar to bottom, but the pattern states to pick up from bottom to collar. What am I missing? If I pickup as stated in the pattern, the inside of the cardigan has to be towards me, not the right side. Advice please. Thanks in advance.
Hi Tilda,
Thanks for writing in! You’ll start picking up stitches for the Right button band and the Left button band in different places. For the Right button band, you begin picking up from the bottom edge up towards the collar, but for the Left button band, you begin picking up from the collar down towards the bottom edge. Perhaps you’re mixing up the starting points between the two sides? If you’re picking up stitches for the Left collar, then you’re totally correct that it only works if you begin at the collar!
All the best,
Lili
the ends in the sleeve to secure….. do you think it would be ok to just tie square knots?
I know it sounds tacky, but who is going to see?
Hi Patty,
I’m afraid I wouldn’t suggest only tying a knot as cotton is super slick and the knot is likely to come out down the line. One thing you could do is tie a knot and THEN weave in the ends for extra security.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gavriella
hopefully last question for me!
I have little gap near where I picked up stitches near underarm, where I started sleeve and picked up the two stitches at beginning and end of round.
I s there a prefered wasy to close gap?
thank you so very much for being there for us, it is so appreciated
sincerely patty
Hi Patty,
We are always happy to help! There are a couple things you could do in this section, if you have already knit the sleeves, then you can use the tails from where you added the yarn to close up the gaps by weaving them closed when finishing. If you have not knit the sleeves yet, you could pick up 2 additional stitches in this area and then decrease them down on the following row. I hope one you find one of these methods helpful but let us know if we can answer anything else for you!
All the best,
Gavriella
I was having the same issue as Tilda and I think I figured out why (posting this in case it’s helpful to someone else). I was interpreting the “right button band” as being the right side of the garment when it is facing me, but you actually mean the right side of the garment when WORN. The right side worn is the left side facing me, and I CAN orient the right button band selvage as directed in the pattern and be able to start from the bottom.
Thanks again for a wonderful pattern!
You’re very welcome, Michaela! And yes you’re correct! “Right” refers to the side of the garment that’s on the right when it’s worn!
All the best,
Lili
adding the additional stitches worked fabulously on my second sleeve!! Wish I would have known this trick for the first one, but will now get to use tail technique to close gaps on that first sleeve.
Thank YOu. I think this is the cutest thing I have ever made.
You’re very welcome, Patty! So happy that your cardigan came out so cute!
All the best,
Lili
I’m enjoying working on this, but guess im still a rookie at pattern reading. I find the back and forth directions a bit confusing. Would rather have line by line written. I’m sure its my lack of experience. Row, 1..2..3..etc.
Hi Kari,
We’re so sorry you are running into issues here. We completely understand how certain pattern instructions can be unfamiliar. We’d be happy to help you through whichever section you are on though! We could even go over it together in one of our free 1-on-1 Zoom help sessions! Our hope is to make the knitting experience as enjoyable as possible while knitting our patterns so please don’t hesitate to reach out!
All the best,
Gavriella
I must be missing something…..I’m knitting for 12-18 months and cast on 59 stitches. So after knitting 3 rows as set-up and starting the yoke, the instructions are “ Increase Row 1 (right side): K3 (6, 2, 4), [make 1 left (m1L), k7 (5, 5, 4)] 7 (9, 11, 13) times, m1L, knit to end of row. [63 (67, 71, 75) stitches]” I read that as knit 2 (for my size), m1L, knit 5 -11 times, m1L and knit to the end of the row. How can I end up with 71 stitches if I’ve only m1L twice? I come up with 61 stitches……
Hi Iris,
Thanks for asking! So for this row you want to make sure you are repeating the full bracketed instruction according to your size. So for the 12-18m size that would like like this:
Increase Row 1 (right side): K2, [(m1L), k5] 11 times, m1L, knit to end of row. [71 stitches]
This means you will have repeated [(m1L), k5] 11 times leaving you with 70 stitches and then work one last m1L before knitting to the end of the row for a total of 71 sts.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
All the best,
Gavriella
Thank you!
I’m about halfway through with this — what a fun pattern. Purl Soho has the very best patterns on the internet, in my opinion. 😉
My question is this (and sorry if someone already asked it): Is there any reason I have to use double-pointed needles for the sleeves instead of magic loop? Is there any benefit to double-pointed needles that I’m missing?
(On another issue others have brought up — I too thought the pattern was a little like a Russian nesting doll, with instructions for any given row often sending you back to an another row, and then again back to another row …. Brevity is great, but knitting patterns can sometimes go too far with this.)
Hi Melanie!
Thank you for writing in and your kind words! You can absolutely use Magic Loop for this pattern if you’d prefer. Either will work just fine but please let us know if you have any questions along the way!
All the best,
Gavriella
This is such an interesting pattern! Would you consider offering it in a wider range of sizes? I’d love to make this in a teen or adult size. Thank you for your consideration.
Hi Mary,
Adding sizes to this pattern is on the minds of our design team!
All the best,
Lili
Yikes! This has got to be one of the most difficult patterns to follow going back and forth with instructions like: Row 30 is Row 6 is really Row 4! I’ve restarted it twice after 44 rows for 6-12 month size and now writing out the pattern myself so I don’t have to go back and forth so much. So confusing! If I don’t get it this third time I give up! Too bad, it’s awfully cute and I thought I could read patterns after hundreds of completed projects but apparently not.
Hi Debbie,
We are so sorry you are running into issues with this pattern! We understand pattern reading can be tricky but really is a never ending learning experience. So please know you aren’t doing anything wrong here! We’d love to help you get back on track before starting over so please send us a photo and description of the issue you are running into to [email protected]. From there our technical knitting specialist is sure to be able to get you back on track!
We will keep a careful eye out for your reply!
Kindly,
Gavriella
I am enjoying knitting this lovely sweater! Am working on the right button band and am having problems with the yarn over between k2tog & ssk. Help, please
Hi Janet!
We would be happy to help! Could you please let us know the issue you are running into? That will better help us come up with a solution to help get you back on track. We will keep an eye out for your reply!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi Gavriella- the pattern says to k2tog, so the yarn is in back. If I yo, the yarn will be in front, but the ssk instructions say the yarn should be in back.
How do I maneuver that?
Thanks again!
Janet
Hi Janet,
Thank you for following up. In this section, you will bring the yarn to the front and once you work your SSK, a new YO stitch will have been made. Since typically you will need the working yarn in back of your work for a SSK or K2tog, by starting with the yarn in front, you will have automatically created a YO by starting with your yarn in front.
I hope this helps better explain but please let us know if there is anything else we can answer for you.
All the best,
Gavriella
Thank you!
A lovely pattern. I did check my gauge, but having knit the 6th increase row on the yoke, and with 167 stitches on needle for 6-12 mo. size, I already have 5 inches in length when the pattern calls for knitting 15 more rows. Please advise! Thanks.
Hi Beth,
I’m so sorry you’re running into this issue with your project! Would you mind letting me know what your current row gauge is? We sometimes find that your project gauge ends up straying from your gauge swatch gauge, so it’s always a good idea to periodically check as you knit!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks, Lili. Row gauge measures out at 20! While stitch guage is 24– both are off, but what will it take to correct the row gauge without making stitch gauge too tight? I am willing to frog and start over. Sigh. And sadly agree I’ve had to work at following the back & forth of the pattern.
Oh I’m so glad you checked! I think you will be able to match both stitch and row gauge on smaller needles. I would try going own two sizes to start since your row gauge is so large at the moment. Then, when you block your new swatch, you can gently stretch it horizontally, which will increase the stitch gauge while also decreasing the row gauge, which should ultimately even out both of them!
If you’re still having trouble, I’d love to take a look at your swatch so I can better visualize what’s going on. If you could send one photo with a ruler or tape measure laid horizontally and another photo with a ruler or tape measure laid vertically, that would be incredibly helpful!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks, Lili, I am used to knitting spot on gauge. At this point, I have knit several swatches , the one I’m working on now is on size 2 needles! I’ve knit only 1.5 inches but it looks as if it will actually give me 40 rows to 4 inches. Crazy? I don’t understand how this can be, since I’ve been knitting pretty successfully for more than 50 years. Hope to get a very pretty cardigan accomplished.
Hi Beth,
We’re so happy you were able to match the gauge of the pattern. Many knitters knit at such different tensions that it’s absolutely possible that others also have to go down to as small of a needle as you have. We’re so glad you were able to match the gauge but please let us know if there is anything else we can do for you!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi just wanted to add a comment about this pattern- it’s very cute and not difficult once you understand the concept. I frogged back 10 rows after CC 2 and restarted. The written instructions are extremely confusing. Please consider rewriting this to make it more user friendly. I’ve read all
the comments and I am not alone in having difficulty with this pattern. With so many of us experiencing trouble I’d venture to say it’s definitely a poorly written pattern.
Hi Ileana,
We’re deeply sorry that you’ve had so much difficulty knitting this pattern. I absolutely see how the back-and-forth nature of this pattern is hard to follow, and I’ve passed along your feedback to our design team. I’ve also alerted them to the other comments about this since it’s come up too many times by now, and it’s clear that we need to find a way to make this pattern easier to read. In the meantime, please let me know if there’s anything else we can do to help you continue on in your project with confidence!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you, the pattern is adorable and I’d love to knit it for all three grandchildren.
Please keep us posted if it is rewritten.
Is the right button band considered “right” when are looking at the sweater or the band that is actually on the right side when wearing it? I wove in all the ends on right front so I’m assuming i will now work on right button band. When picking up the stitches seems like the right side ( not wrong side) should be facing me in order to pick them up from bottom to collar. But it now says row 1 should be knitted on wrong side. Can’t figure this out. I actually picked the stitches up from the bottom to the collar and I’m trying to figure out how to make the adjustment for this button band. Please help.
Hi Nancy,
That is correct that the right front means the wearers right side. This means you will pick up stitches with the right side facing you and then turn your work to be able to work row 1 on the wrong side of the work. I hope this helps clarify but please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
So the side, which I wove in all the ends was actually the left side of the sweater?? That would be the eft side if someone was wearing the sweater.
The instructions said “ Weave in all ends on Right Front.”
So confused still
Hi Nancy,
So sorry to have mixed you up further! So in this section we are actually considering both the Right and Left sides of the garment as well as the right and wrong sides of the fabric (i.e. outside and inside of the cardigan). So in order to start your button band, you will weave in the ends on the wrong side/inside of the Right side of your cardigan so that they’re all hidden away before you move on in the pattern. From there, you will begin to pick up stitches starting from the bottom on the Right side of your project, with the right side/outside of the cardigan facing you. I hope this helps better clarify but please let me know if any thing is still unclear.
All the best,
Gavriella
Can you tell me which colors would look good (as contrast colors) with the Warm Pewter for this sweater? Thanks!
Hi Mary,
Thanks for asking! I think the Mint Citrus or Ebb Tide bundle would pair wonderfully with Warm Pewter!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi Lili, Gavriella,
I am confused by the instructions for the last row of the yoke for the 18-24 month sweater: “Beginning with Row 30 of dotted stripe pattern, Flat, work (…27) more rows in pattern, ending with Row (…20). How would I end with row 20 if I am knitting another 27 rows. Very confused, HELP! Also, if I do end with 30+27 rows total my sweater length will be about 6.3 inches. Does that matter?
Thanks
Anita
Hi Anita,
In this section, you will be referring back to the Dotted Stitch Pattern,Flat section and work the subsequent rows without increases. So since the instruction reads:
Beginning with Row 30 of Dotted Stripe Pattern, Flat, work 27 more rows in pattern
, you will continue on by working rows 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36 (row 6-12). After you have completed the rows you will go back to the stop of the stitch pattern again starting at row 1 of the Dotted Stitch Pattern, Flat.
This means that as you continue on, you will count row 1 of the 27 as follows:
Row 1 = Row 30
Row 2 = Row 31
Row 3 = Row 32
Row 4 = Row 33
Row 5 = Row 34
Row 6 = Row 35
Row 7 = Row 36
Row 8 = Row 1
Row 9 = Row 2 and so on. I hope this helps clarify but please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Thanks Gavriella, that did clarify things. On with this delightful pattern now.
This was my very 1st baby sweater and it was SO easy. The color work is very easy. I also love Cotton Chirp and that said, I too would love to see a pattern with this color work for adult sizes.
Hi Polly,
We’re so happy you enjoyed the pattern! We also think an adult version would be lovely and I have passed this request on to our design team for future consideration. Have a wonderful rest of your day!
All the best,
Gavriella
For the button bands when it says right front selvage on top is that the collar or the bottom edge?
Hi Jenny,
Great question! When you are looking at your piece, you will orientate the project so that you are ready to being picking up from the bottom right edge and then work your way up to the collar. The pattern just specifies the way you will want to have the pattern facing you so that you are right where you need to be to start. I hope that helps clarify but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Love the pattern but am flummoxed by the sleeve instructions. Once I pick up the stitches with my DPs, is my first row Round 16 (in my case) of the Dotted Stripe Patter, or do I knit 16 rows, then pick up the pattern?
This was an adventure of a pattern, but worth it!
Hi Lisa,
Great question! In this section you will start on round 16 of the Dotted Stripe Pattern, In The Round. I hope this helps clarify and happy knitting!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi there! I have a question about the Body section. It says, “Beginning with Row 4 (10, 16, 22) of Dotted Stripe Pattern, Flat, work 41 (47, 53, 59) more rows, ending with Row 8 (20, 32, 8).” Does this include the increases that happen? The drawing shows the circumference at the bottom being the same as at the underarm. If the increases are supposed to happen, how many stitches do you end up with at the bottom?
Hi Alex,
Thanks for reaching out! In the body section of the pattern you are no longer working increases but instead working directly from the DOTTED STRIPE PATTERN, FLAT instruction. So this means you will keep the same amount of stitches throughout this section. I hope this helps clarify and happy knitting!
All the best,
Gavriella
Help! 🙂 This is my first time reading a complex pattern. I’m starting at the collar and have cast on stitches. I thought “knit 3 rows” meant a knit stitch (not purl), but then I can’t seem to figure out how to begin the m1L when it’s not a v-shaped row presenting itself. If I start with a purl row and alternate purl and knit, it doesn’t look like the collar in the photo. What am I missing?
Hi Cecilia!
Thank you for your question, and you’re doing great for your first time tackling a more complex pattern! You didn’t misunderstand anything: “knit 3 rows” really does mean knit every stitch on every row. The collar is worked in garter stitch, which is created by knitting every row, not by alternating knit and purl. That’s why starting with purl rows changes the look and doesn’t match the photo.
The tricky part here is the m1L. In garter stitch, the increase bar isn’t as visually obvious as it is in stockinette, so it can feel like it’s “missing.” It is there—you just may need to gently spread the stitches apart to see the strand between them. Once you spot it, you’ll work the m1L exactly as usual. This is a very common moment of confusion, especially early on, so you’re right on track. And if a visual would help, feel free to reach out to us at [email protected] — we’re always happy to take a look or talk it through with you!
Warmly,
Megan
Hi!
Love knitting this pattern so far. I’m about to knit the sleeves – is it possible to knit them flat then mattress stitch the seams? If so would I have to pick up extra stitches? Thanks for your help.
Hi Judi!
Thank you for your question! I’m so glad you’re enjoying the pattern! Yes, you can knit the sleeves flat and seam them using mattress stitch. I’d recommend casting on 2 extra stitches on either side the underarm so you have a little seam allowance. Those stitches will disappear into the mattress stitch and help keep the seam tidy. Other than that, you can follow the sleeve shaping as written, just worked flat instead of in the round.
Warmly,
Megan