Mitered Corner Blanket
For the New Year, our gloriously artful Mitered Corner Blanket! A masterpiece in construction, color, and design, this next-level knitting project is as close as you can get to painting with yarn, nearly calling for a signature in the corner.
Its watercolor-y wonders run deep, with 192 squares that require absolutely no sewing. You just knit each square from corner to corner and pick up stitches along one or two sides of adjoining squares to continue with the next one, gradually gliding from one combo of colors to another.
All these beautiful in-between shades and gradations are possible by using our Linen Quill doubled. Get all the yarn you need with our Mitered Corner Blanket Bundle, available in two palettes: Warm and Cool. Both versions ripple through color with stunning beauty: a sometimes subtle, sometimes dramatic flow, from deep saturation to pale expanse, back to rich concentration, transformed.
Both palettes are available in Small and Large Throw sizes. Either way, the 192-square construction is the same, but for the Small Throw (pictured in Cool) each square is 3 x 3 inches, and for the Large Throw (pictured in Warm) each one is 4 x 4. In any size or color, this is the perfect get-involved winter project, a work of art to really immerse yourself in, as legit for hanging on the wall as it is for hanging on the couch!
Designed for Purl Soho by Jake Canton.
Update: New Colors!
January 24, 2020
Our wonderfully watercolor-y Mitered Corner Blanket is now available in two glorious new palettes! The super fresh and punchy Dawn and Mountain color combos join our classic bundles, Warm and Cool, for a total of four equally stunning options. Read all about our two new color additions here!
Materials
Our Mitered Corner Blanket Bundle comes in two sizes: Small Throw (top row, above) and Large Throw (bottom row). Choose also from a Warm (left) or Cool (right) palette.
The Small (Large) Bundle includes…
- 15 (19) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca and 15% linen; each skein is 439 yards/ 100 grams.
- Color A: 1 (2) skein(s); approximately 336 (650) yards required
- Color B: 2 (2) skeins; approximately 555 (857) yards required
- Color C: 2 (3) skeins; approximately 768 (1116) yards required
- Color D: 2 (3) skeins; approximately 879 (1309) yards required
- Color E: 3 (4) skeins; approximately 971 (1447) yards required
- Color F: 2 (2) skeins; approximately 507 (765) yards required
- Color G: 1 (1) skein; approximately 208 (341) yards required
- Color H: 1 (1) skein; approximately 140 (189) yards required
- Color I: 1 (1) skein; approximately 34 (74) yards required
The colors included with each palette are…
Warm Bundle
- Color A: Pale Oats
- Color B: Wheat Flour
- Color C: Lychee Pink
- Color D: Kiln Red
- Color E: Chestnut Red
- Color F: Rosewood Pink
- Color G: Peony Pink
- Color H: Honey Pink
- Color I: Turmeric Yellow
Cool Bundle
- Color A: Oatmeal Gray
- Color B: Heirloom White
- Color C: Vintage Celadon
- Color D: True Turquoise
- Color E: High Tide
- Color F: Mountain Bluebird
- Color G: Gray Denim
- Color H: Stillwater Blue
- Color I: Kettle Black
NOTE: For the Small Throw, we only used a little bit of the third skein of Color E. If you leave the skein unwound, you can exchange it if you don’t end up needing it (click right here for Purl Soho’s return policy). Also, a couple of customers making the Small Throw have reported running out of Color D. Please double check your gauge and be conservative with Color D tails!
You will also need…
- US 6 (4 mm), circular or straight needles
- A stitch marker
Gauge
22 stitches and 44 rows = 4 inches in knit garter stitch and in purl garter stitch
Each Small Throw square should be 3 x 3 inches; each Large Throw square should be 4 x 4 inches.
NOTE: You will make some squares with all knit stitches and some with all purl stitches. Make sure your garter stitch is on gauge for both. You may have to adjust your needle size so they are!
Sizes
Small Throw (Large Throw)
Finished Dimensions: 36 inches wide x 48 inches long (48 inches wide x 64 inches long)
Notes
You will double the yarn throughout the pattern, pulling two strands together.
S2kp (slip 2, knit 1, psso): Slip 2 stitches together knitwise wyib, knit 1, pass slipped stitches over knit stitch and off right needle. [2 stitches decreased]
Pattern
Begin With Square 1
With two strands of Color A, use a Long Tail Cast On to cast on 31 (41) stitches.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Knit 14 (19) stitches, pm, knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull the tail through the final stitch.
Square 2
With 1 strand of Color A and 1 strand of Color B, use a Long Tail Cast On to cast on 15 (20) stitches.
With the right side facing you, orient Square 1 so the cast-on edges are on the right-hand and bottom sides of the square. Pick up 16 (21) stitches along the top edge of Square 1, picking up only 1 leg of each edge stitch.
NOTE: For some tips on picking up, please visit our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Knit 14 (19) stitches, pm, knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull the tail through the final stitch.
Squares 3-16
Working to create a line of 16 squares, continue by casting on 15 (20) stitches and picking up 16 (21) stitches along the top edge of each previous square. Follow the instructions for Square 2 and use the Blanket Schematic above to determine which combinations of yarn to use for each square.
Square 17
With 1 strand of Color A and 1 strand of Color B, use a Long Tail Cast On, Purlwise to cast on 15 (20) stitches.
With the wrong side facing you, orient Square 1 so the cast-on edges are on the right-hand and bottom sides of the square and Square 2 is on the left-hand side. Pick up 16 (21) stitches purlwise along the top edge of Square 1, making sure to pick up only 1 leg of each edge stitch.
Set-Up Row (right side): Purl 15 (20) stitches, k1, p1, pm, purl to end of row.
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to marker, p1, k1, purl to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Purl to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, p1, pm, purl to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull the tail through the final stitch.
Square 18
With the right side of the fabric facing you, orient the completed squares so that Squares 1-16 are a horizontal row on the bottom and Square 17 is at the top left corner. With 2 strands of Color B, pick up 16 (21) stitches along the top edge of Square 2 and then pick up 15 (20) stitches along the right-hand edge of Square 17.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Knit 14 (19) stitches, pm, knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull the tail through the final stitch.
Squares 19-32
Follow the instructions for Square 18, referring to the Blanket Schematic to determine which combinations of yarn to use for each square.
Continue
Following the instructions for Squares 17-32, continue to knit each column of squares starting with Squares 33-48. Refer to the Blanket Schematic for the order of the squares and the combinations of yarn used for each square.
Finish
Weave in the ends and block as desired.
PRINT
Hello there,
I just began working on this beautiful blanket. I’ve cast on 20 stitches for square 2, but I’m a bit confused with how to pick up stitches from square 1.
-After casting on, do you use the remaining long tail to pick up the stitches?
-What do you mean by picking up only 1 leg of each stitch? Would I be doing it right if I simply follow your picking-up stitch tutorial?
Thanks so much!
Hi Veronica
Thanks for the question! After you cast on the 20 stitches your yarn will still be at the end of your right needle, and you will use it to pick up and knit the next 16(21) stitches from Square 1. After picking up the stitches, your work should look like the second picture under Square 2. Although we, unfortunately, don’t have the resources at the moment to do a photo tutorial, I will try my best to explain this step! If you look at the stitches directly below each garter ridge, you will be able to see the individual V-shaped or teardrop-shaped stitches – you may have to stretch the garter ridges away from each other to see this clearly. When picking up each edge stitch, you will insert your needle directly into the middle of the V closest to the edge of the square, so that only one leg of the V, or stitch, is to the right of the needle. Since you are holding your yarn doubled, there will be two strands of yarn, but just one leg of the actual stitch. You can then wrap your yarn as if to knit and pull up the new stitch. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting
Jessica
Why do you pick up only one keg of the edge stitch rather than both legs?
Hi Maura,
Thanks for reaching out! You only pick up 1 leg because both legs would cause the stitch to drop. Please check out our Picking Up Stitches tutorial, it will show you the correct way to pick up stitches for the most neat look!
All the best,
Gianna
Hello
Can you please let me know how much of the third skein of Kiln red (colour D) do you end up using for the large size? I have some left over and wondering if I need to buy a third skein or not…
Thanks
Kate
Hi Kate,
Thanks for reaching out! For the large throw, we used about 1,309 yards of Kiln Red, so you won’t have very much leftover at all! For a few of the colors in this blanket, if your gauge isn’t spot on, you may run out of yarn, so I would recommend double-checking your gauge and weighing your yarn as you go to see if you will have enough. If you would like to be on the safe side, you can always order the extra skein, and as long as it isn’t wound, you can return it for store credit!
Best,
Julianna
Hi! I own the bundle for the large red version of this beautiful blanket and was wondering which of the colors has the greatest amount of left over yarn, if any. I tend to cut off my swatch to keep as a yarn example and prevent reusing yarn more than thrice, but I know the pattern points out some of the yarn can be in tight supply.
Hi Carolina,
Great question! You should have plenty of extra yardage in Color H or I.
Happy knitting!
Julianna1
Thank you!
Hi, I purchased the large blanket bundle – warm colours. As I’m a slow knitter and I’m inclined to leave fairly long tails, are there any skeins that I might run short of? If so, I’d like to order them now, in case it’s discontinued before I finish it! I’m really enjoying the project and thanks for giving the pattern
Hi Margaret,
Great question! We have had a few reports of customers running out of Color D, which is Kiln Red in your bundle, so you could order one more skein if you’re concerned! Although nobody has actually run out of any other colors, the yardage is also quite close for Color A, Wheat Flour and Color F, Rosewood Pink. If you don’t end up needing the extra skeins and they haven’t been wound, you can return them for store credit!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I would love to make it with Sweetgrass fine. That yarn is soft and so nice to knit. What would be the right mix of colors to get shades of neutral?
Hi Diane,
Thanks for writing in! Although Sweetgrass Fine is too thin for this blanket, our original Sweetgrass comes in the same color palette and would be a wonderful choice! Since it only comes in five colors, you won’t be able to replicate the same gradient as the original blanket, but I think it would be lovely to shade from light to dark and back to light across the blanket diagonally. To do so, you will start by knitting Square 1 in two strands of Heirloom White, then knit Square 2 in one strand of Heirloom White and one strand of Pale Sesame, then knit Square 3 in two strands of Pale Sesame, then Square 4 in one strand of Pale Sesame and one strand of Buckwheat Beige, and so on until you knit Square 11 in two strands of the darkest color, Beech Bark. You will then move back through the colors from dark to light until you get to the end of the first row of squares. Before getting started, I would recommend printing out our color schematic and planning out your color combinations and changes, making sure each diagonal line of squares are knit with the same combination.
I hope that helps, and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Thanks! I appreciate your suggestions.
Hi this blanket is beautiful. Do you have a graph that I could follow to show where to place each coloured square.? I can’t see the whole blanket in your pictures. Thanks
Hi Joanne,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, you can find a schematic of the entire blanket right under the heading “Squares 3-16!” If you would like to print it or view it larger, you can right click on the schematic and select “Open image in new tab.”
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Love this pattern. I was wondering if this could be knit with the Linen Quill Worsted rather than 2 strands of Linen Quill. If so, how many balls of each would I need? If this is not possible or would not look right, what other yarn could I use to achieve the same look but only using one strand? Thanks – can’t wait to try this.
Arlene Anderson
Hi Arlene,
Thanks for writing in! Although I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch before getting started, yes, you could certainly knit this blanket using a single strand of Linen Quill Worsted! The gauge and scale of the blanket will be very similar, but the color gradation won’t be quite as smooth as ours since each block will be a solid color instead of two colors blended together. You will need 2,207 (3,535) yards total divided between your chosen colors, or about 15 (20) yards per square. The best way to figure out how much of each color will need is to print out our diagram or plot out your blanket on graph paper. You can then count up how many squares there will be each color, multiply that number by 15 (20) yards per square, and then divide that number into 164 yards per skein of Linen Quill Worsted to determine how many skeins of each color to buy.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
What do you think about using the new linen quill worsted for this? Same size needle, and just calculate the yardage? Or go up in needle size, and just have a bigger blanket? Thanks!
Hi Amanda,
Great question! Although I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch before getting started, I think Linen Quill Worsted held single should work well on a US 7! The gauge and scale of the blanket will be very similar, but the color gradation won’t be quite as smooth as ours since each block will be a solid color instead of two colors blended together. You will need 2,207 (3,535) yards total divided between your chosen colors, or about 15 (20) yards per square. The best way to figure out how much of each color will need is to print out our diagram or plot out your blanket on graph paper. You can then count up how many squares there will be each color, multiply that number by 15 (20) yards per square, and then divide that number into 164 yards per skein of Linen Quill Worsted to determine how many skeins of each color to buy.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
I would love to knit this blanket! I’m still having trouble visualizing the process of picking up 16 stitches though. If you have one stitch from square 1 left on the needle, and you cast on 15, how many “new” edge stitches are you picking up? I’m afraid to dive in and try this blanket before I understand how it all works!
Hi Tracy,
Thanks for writing in! I know this seems like a complicated project but it is actually pretty easy! For Square 1 you will be repeating pattern Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains, and then you will cut your working yarn and pull the tail through the final stitch so bind it off! You will then be casting on 15 or 20 stitches (depending on what size you are making.) After that, with the right side facing you, orient Square 1 so the cast-on edges are on the right-hand and bottom sides of the square. Next, you will be picking up 16 (21) stitches along the top edge of Square 1, picking up only 1 leg of each edge stitch (please check out our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial!) After you pick up the stitches you will then continue on to the Set Up round and begin knitting the 2nd square!
I hope this clarifies things and please feel free to reach out with any more questions you may have going forward!
All the best,
Gianna
I love the colours and shapes in this blanket. I have tried knitting the first square several times and each time it has knitted up as a rectangle rather than a square with remaining stitches to the left of the decrease (mitre) line. I keep re-reading the instructions to make sure I am following them correctly but just can’t see my error. Please advise me.
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for reaching out! Please email us a photo of your work to our email customerservice@purlsoho.com and we can help troubleshoot further from there!
All the best,
Gianna
I’m a loose but very steady knitter with even tension. To make a 4-inch square, I’m working with size 5 needles and making fewer stitches per square. (I can’t fathom using a smaller needle to make a blanket.) But my square shapes are not consistent and it’s hard to find all 18 stitches to pick up. These are my stitch modifications. Shouldn’t this work?
• Rather than casting on 41 stiches at the start, cast on 35.
• At Square 2, cast on 17 and pick up 18 along the edge of Square 1.
• At the set-up row, knit 16 and place the marker.
Also, is the last stitch of each square “s2kp” or should it end on a knit?
I can’t believe I’m finding such a simple mitered square pattern to be so challenging! I have a strip 9-squares long but have not yet found my flow! Thank you for your thoughts and suggestions.
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! That looks like it should work to me, as long as you are consistent with each square! I recommend checking out our
Picking Up Stitches tutorial, it is very useful and may help you a bit! Also, the last stitch should not be a s2kp, for row 1 (right side) you should knit to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row, 2 stitches decreased and ending with a knit stitch and then for Row 2 (wrong side) you should be knitting every stitch to the end of row.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thank you for the confirmation, Gianna! Could be that the pattern’s simplicity sets me too much at ease and my mind wanders! It’s lovely and the colors are gorgeous and I know the finished piece will be dazzling!
Hi Susan,
I totally understand what you mean! I am happy to help and can’t wait to hear how your blanket turns out, this is such a fun and beautiful pattern!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
I was wondering if there is a crochet pattern for this?
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, we don’t have this pattern available for crochet but thank you for expressing your interest and I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi! I understand this pattern almost 100%.. The only part I don’t understand is which squares will end up using all purl and which use all knit. Squares 1-16 use all knit, then when you cast on for square 17 it switches to all purl stitches all the way to 32.
Will you cast on knit wise for square 33 and then for the entire row it will be all knit stitch? Basically is it every other row will be knit then purl??
Hi Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct! For squares 1-16 you are knitting every row of each square, then for rows 17-32 you will purl every row of each square, and then so on and so forth switching between the two every other row!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
I didn’t think I was confused before, but now I am! I understand that square 17 is all purl, but the pattern instructions say that the rest of that row (18-32) is all knit (so that only the first square in each row after the first one is purl). Your note to Emily says rows 18-32 are also all purl. Which is correct? (Does it matter?) Also, I am getting holes between squares, especially as the blanket is getting heavier. That doesn’t seem to happen with a heavier yarn. What am I doing wrong?
Hi Jeanne,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes you are correct! I misspoke and it is in fact only square 17 that is purled and and 18-32 are knit! As for the holes, it may be because of the way you are picking up the stitches, I would recommend checking out our Picking Up Stitches tutorial! If you are still ending up with holes you can send our team a photo of your blanket to customerservice@purlsoho.com and we can trouble shoot further from there!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
So if I’m reading this correctly, only the first square in the second to 12th row in purl then the rest of the squares in each row are knit?
Hi Whitney,
Thanks for writing in! For squares 1-16 you will knit every row and then square 17 you will purl every row, you will then continue knitting every row for squares 18-32. Once you finish square 32 you will repeat rows 17-32 for 33-48.
I hope this clears things up, happy knitting!
Gianna
How do you pull two strands of the same color if knitting the small throw with only one skein of one color? Do you half the yarn some how? Im a bit confused on that part.
Hi Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! The best way to pull two strands is to Pull one from the outside and then pull the 2nd strand from the inside of the ball!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi, hope you’re all keeping safe. I was just wondering whether you had any rough timescales on when the large warm bundle for this lovely blanket might be back in stock? I should have bought it when I first saw it!
Hi Georgina,
Thanks for reaching out! We anticipate that we will have Linen Quill and Linen Quill bundles back in stock in the spring! The best way to stay notified would be to put in your email on the Mitered Corner Blanket Bundle page and we will email you as soon as it is available!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi! I just want to clarify the gauge swatch, do you knit the swatch with one strand of yarn, or two like in the blanket? Thanks in advance for the clarification 😁
Hi Niki,
Thanks for reaching out! To accurately check your gauge you will want to use the recommended needle and knit the swatch using two strands as you do in the blanket!
Warmly,
Gianna
I would love to purchase the Dawn or Mountain large throw bundle when one becomes available. Please let me know.
Hi Cinid,
Thanks for reaching out! If you go to the Mitered Corner Blanket Bundle product page you can select the color and size of the bundle you would like and enter your email directly below. We will then notify you as soon as it is back in stock!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi, I am working on square two and it keeps knitting up so that the wrong side of the new square face the same way as the right side of the first square. I cast on the new stitches and then picked up stitches with the right side facing me. Then I knit the first row of the new square with the wrong side facing me, picked up stitches first and then the new cast on stitches followed. I have tried a couple of times and cannot figure out why it isn’t coming out correctly. Help appreciated!
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for reaching out! If you would like, please send us a few photos to customerservice@purlsoho.com and we can troubleshoot further from there!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thanks. I figured it out! It looks awesome so far.
This would be exquisite turned into a poncho!
Any hints on how to do this? I’m a beginner knitter but I love a challenge!
Hi Risa,
Thanks for reaching out! This would look lovely as a poncho! My best guess for the construction would be to break it up into two panels and then stitch them together leaving an opening for your head!
If you do make this please let us know how it turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
Allo,
I just began working on this beautiful blanket. I’m doing the sample ; each large throw square should be 4 x 4 inches. I had to reduce the size of the needle to adjust to the sample. Now I am at the size US 3 and my sample still to large. Is it normal that I have to reduce that much?
Thank you for your help.
Suzanne
Hi Suzanne,
Thanks for reaching out! Every knitter’s gauge is unique and depending on how tightly or loosely you knit, it’s common to have to adjust the needle size you’re working with to achieve the correct gauge called for in a pattern. That being said, it does seem like quite a jump to go from US6 to US3 to obtain gauge. If you haven’t already, I’d recommend knitting up a gauge swatch and washing and blocking it as you would the finished piece; all our pattern’s gauges are based on blocked dimensions (unless otherwise stated), so you’ll want to make sure you’re blocking your swatch to get your most accurate gauge count. It could be that you are getting gauge on a larger needle, but you’ll need to block the swatch to be sure.
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hi – could you confirm which of the videos in the picking up stitches tutorials give the right instructions to match these? (I just finished square one, moving to square two.) The vertical garter edge video, which is what I thought this square pick up would need, does not note picking up only one leg, just notes picking up the strand between the two bumps. Is this saying the same thing?
Hi Lqs,
Thanks for reaching out! You are on the right track! If you are watching the tutorial you will want to follow the vertical edge garter stitch option. Even though the lingo between the tutorial and the pattern is a bit different they are essentially doing the same thing!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Square 1…when I do a long-tail cast on and then knit the set up row, I am now on the wrong side instead of the right side for row 1. What am I doing wrong???
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for reaching out! When you use Long Tail Cast On, it will always orient you so that when you work the very first row you will be working over the “wrong side” of the fabric. So if you are finding that you are on the wrong side after working the setup row, it means you are most likely working the long tail cast on in reverse (we call this Long Tail Cast On, Purlwise) I would suggest checking out our standard Long Tail Cast On tutorial so ensure you have the correct orientation and that your set up row is worked over the wrong side.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna