For the New Year, our gloriously artful Mitered Corner Blanket! A masterpiece in construction, color, and design, this next-level knitting project is as close as you can get to painting with yarn, nearly calling for a signature in the corner.
Its watercolor-y wonders run deep, with 192 squares that require absolutely no sewing. You just knit each square from corner to corner and pick up stitches along one or two sides of adjoining squares to continue with the next one, gradually gliding from one combo of colors to another.
All these beautiful in-between shades and gradations are possible by using our Linen Quill doubled. Get all the yarn you need with our Mitered Corner Blanket Bundle, available in two palettes: Warm and Cool. Both versions ripple through color with stunning beauty: a sometimes subtle, sometimes dramatic flow, from deep saturation to pale expanse, back to rich concentration, transformed.
Both palettes are available in Small and Large Throw sizes. Either way, the 192-square construction is the same, but for the Small Throw (pictured in Cool) each square is 3 x 3 inches, and for the Large Throw (pictured in Warm) each one is 4 x 4. In any size or color, this is the perfect get-involved winter project, a work of art to really immerse yourself in, as legit for hanging on the wall as it is for hanging on the couch!
Designed for Purl Soho by Jake Canton.
Update: New Colors!
January 24, 2020
Our wonderfully watercolor-y Mitered Corner Blanket is now available in two glorious new palettes! The super fresh and punchy Dawn and Mountain color combos join our classic bundles, Warm and Cool, for a total of four equally stunning options. Read all about our two new color additions here!
Materials
Our Mitered Corner Blanket Bundle comes in two sizes: Small Throw (top row, above) and Large Throw (bottom row). Choose also from a Warm (left) or Cool (right) palette.
The Small (Large) Bundle includes…
- 15 (19) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca and 15% linen
The colors included with each palette are…
- Warm Bundle
- Color A: 1 (2) skein(s) of Pale Oats
- Color B: 2 (2) skeins of Wheat Flour
- Color C: 2 (3) skeins of Lychee Pink
- Color D: 2 (3) skeins of Kiln Red
- Color E: 3 (4) skeins of Chestnut Red
- Color F: 2 (2) skeins of Rosewood Pink
- Color G: 1 (1) skein of Peony Pink
- Color H: 1 (1) skein of Honey Pink
- Color I: 1 (1) skein of Turmeric Yellow
- Cool Bundle
- Color A: 1 (2) skein(s) of Oatmeal Gray
- Color B: 2 (2) skeins of Heirloom White
- Color C: 2 (3) skeins of Vintage Celadon
- Color D: 2 (3) skeins of True Turquoise
- Color E: 3 (4) skeins of High Tide
- Color F: 2 (2) skeins of Mountain Bluebird
- Color G: 1 (1) skein of Gray Denim
- Color H: 1 (1) skein of Stillwater Blue
- Color I: 1 (1) skein of Kettle Black
NOTE: For the Small Throw, we only used a little bit of the third skein of Color E. If you leave the skein unwound, you can exchange it if you don’t end up needing it (click right here for Purl Soho’s return policy). Also, a couple of customers making the Small Throw have reported running out of Color D. Please double check your gauge and be conservative with Color D tails!
You will also need…
- US 6, circular or straight needles
- A stitch marker
Gauge
22 stitches and 44 rows = 4 inches in knit garter stitch and in purl garter stitch
Each Small Throw square should be 3 x 3 inches; each Large Throw square should be 4 x 4 inches.
NOTE: You will make some squares with all knit stitches and some with all purl stitches. Make sure your garter stitch is on gauge for both. You may have to adjust your needle size so they are!
Sizes
Small Throw (Large Throw)
- Finished Dimensions: 36 inches wide x 48 inches long (48 inches wide x 64 inches long)
Notes
You will double the yarn throughout the pattern, pulling two strands together.
S2kp (slip 2, knit 1, psso): Slip 2 stitches together knitwise wyib, knit 1, pass slipped stitches over knit stitch and off right needle. [2 stitches decreased]
Pattern
Begin With Square 1
With two strands of Color A, use a Long Tail Cast On to cast on 31 (41) stitches.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Knit 14 (19) stitches, pm, knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull the tail through the final stitch.
Square 2
With 1 strand of Color A and 1 strand of Color B, use a Long Tail Cast On to cast on 15 (20) stitches.
With the right side facing you, orient Square 1 so the cast-on edges are on the right-hand and bottom sides of the square. Pick up 16 (21) stitches along the top edge of Square 1, picking up only 1 leg of each edge stitch.
NOTE: For some tips on picking up, please visit our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Knit 14 (19) stitches, pm, knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull the tail through the final stitch.
Squares 3-16
Working to create a line of 16 squares, continue by casting on 15 (20) stitches and picking up 16 (21) stitches along the top edge of each previous square. Follow the instructions for Square 2 and use the Blanket Schematic above to determine which combinations of yarn to use for each square.
Square 17
With 1 strand of Color A and 1 strand of Color B, use a Long Tail Cast On, Purlwise to cast on 15 (20) stitches.
With the wrong side facing you, orient Square 1 so the cast-on edges are on the right-hand and bottom sides of the square and Square 2 is on the left-hand side. Pick up 16 (21) stitches purlwise along the top edge of Square 1, making sure to pick up only 1 leg of each edge stitch.
Set-Up Row (right side): Purl 15 (20) stitches, k1, p1, pm, purl to end of row.
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to marker, p1, k1, purl to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Purl to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, p1, pm, purl to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull the tail through the final stitch.
Square 18
With the right side of the fabric facing you, orient the completed squares so that Squares 1-16 are a horizontal row on the bottom and Square 17 is at the top left corner. With 2 strands of Color B, pick up 16 (21) stitches along the top edge of Square 2 and then pick up 15 (20) stitches along the right-hand edge of Square 17.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Knit 14 (19) stitches, pm, knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull the tail through the final stitch.
Squares 19-32
Follow the instructions for Square 18, referring to the Blanket Schematic to determine which combinations of yarn to use for each square.
Continue
Following the instructions for Squares 17-32, continue to knit each column of squares starting with Squares 33-48. Refer to the Blanket Schematic for the order of the squares and the combinations of yarn used for each square.
Finish
Weave in the ends and block as desired.
PRINT
Usually I slip the first stitch of every row. Would this work with this pattern? It makes an neater edge to pick up stitches.
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for reaching out! We haven’t tried it so I can’t say for sure how it would turn out, but you could try slipping the first stitch of each row and then picking up one stitch in each slipped stitch for the next square – you should end up with the same number of stitches!
Best of luck and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Hi there!
I always slip the first stitch of each row when doing these squares, and it makes for a very smooth edge that is much easier to pick up from. It also makes a nice edge on the squares on the outside of the blanket. If you k the last st. through the back loop I *think* it makes that stitch a tiny bit more stable and less loopy (I can’t remember it’s been a while, try both, they have slightly different qualities).
Hope that helps!
(Not an official response, just hopefully a helpful fellow knitter’s experience)
Hi, all!
Quick, silly question, I don’t know why this is tripping me up. Starting on SQ2, I cast on 20 stitches, then picked up and knit the 21 edge stitches from SQ1. Then I knit all the way across (on the wrong side, placing the marker after st19). Is that all correct so far?
If not, help!
If so, I’m not sure why, but, right side facing me, there is have flat space between the ridges of SQ1 and SQ2. It looks as if I was supposed to purl somewhere but didn’t. What in the world did I do wrong?!
Is there a way to send a pic if my description is confusing?
Thank you!
Hi Christine,
Thanks for reaching out! What you are describing sounds like the correct method for starting square two, and since you pick up the stitches from the right side and immediately knit on the wrong side, there shouldn’t be much of a space between the two squares. Have you tried knitting a few more rows to see if the stitches are just getting a bit distorted by being on the needle? You can always send us a picture at customerservice@purlsoho.com if that doesn’t help, but I hope it does!
Best,
Julianna
I’ve knitted 8 squares thus far, and have an easy tip to recommend. When you have your darning needle out to bind off the last stitch of each square, use it to weave in the ends of the previous square. That way you still have the dangling threads of the square you just finished to guide your cast on, but you won’t have dozens and dozens of ends to weave in when you finish the blanket!
Love this pattern and would like to make it as a baby blanket. Do you have a recommendation for one of your yarns that’s can be substituted that’s washable and works with the variety of colors needed? Thanks so much!
Hello Margaret,
Thank you for reaching out! I would recommend looking at our Posy yarn. It is machine washable and incredibly soft.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello –
I’m attempting this blanket while on hip replacement recovery! I am not sure I started square two correctly, I have too many tails.
Can I upload a picture to this comment section?
Hi Ryan,
Thanks for reaching out! I am sorry to say that our site does not have the ability to upload photos but you certainly can email us at customerservice@purlsoho.com and we will take a look and do our best to help!
Speedy healing!
Cassy
Hi!
I’m attempting this blanket right now and I’m transitioning from square 17 to 18. I seem to be finding more than 41 stitches total to pick up, do you have any photos that could be sent to me of where exactly you picked up the stitches?
Hello Grace,
Thank you for reaching out! This is certainly a tricky part. If you look at the photo located above under “SQUARE18”, showing the stitches you picked up from square 2 and square 17 you can see where your stitches should be picked up. I wish I had a closer photo to send you, but you can see from this photo that you will be picking up your stitches between your garter stitch ridges.
Are you getting extra stitches from both square 17 and square 2?
I hope I can help!
Warmly,
Marilla
I was but I’m on the third row now with no troubles with that anymore. However I’m having difficulty with square 17, 33, the first square of the new row that’s in all purl. My gauge is really off and it’s much looser than the other square I have. Is there another way to do it to make sure it’s nice and tight or is purl the only way to go. Thanks much!
Hi Grace,
Thanks for writing back! This can be a common problem as a fair number of folks have different purl gauge to knit gauge. The reason we knit these squares as purl garter squares is to maintain a neat edge throughout the blanket. If your purl gauge is different to your knit gauge, you may need to go down needle sizes on the purl squares to maintain the design of the blanket.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
When weaving in the ends, do you separate the two strands or weave them in together?
Hello Diane,
Thank you for reaching out! This is a great question- you can do it either way. I would reccomend separating the two for a bit more security, but it will work beautifully either way!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hello! This is a very, very small comment, but I see that in your schematic of the order and placement of the squares, you wrote “138” twice, and then went to 140. Clearly just a typo. Just thought you might want to know!
I might try this soon with yarn scraps, wish me luck !
Marie
Hi Marie,
Thank you so much for pointing this out to us! We have now updated the schematic so the squares are numbered properly. I do hope you will give it a try as this is a really fun technique!
Best,
Julianna
Hi,
I am going to knit this gorgeous blanket.
I went through the comments but I couldn’t see one that explain my doubt.
I am struggling in picking up stitches from garter, especially when you say “pick up one leg”.
I saw the tutorial but it looks like you pick up two legs …am I wrong? I tried to follow the tutorial but my wrong side doesn’t come out smooth ….
Can you hel me somehow?
Thank you very much !
Happy knitting
Marcella
Hello Marcella,
Thank you for reaching out! When you are picking up your stitches you are inserting your needle between your garter ridges grab a stitch from you working yarn. It’s always tricky to know what exactly without seeing it so If all else fails you can always send a photo to Store@purlsoho.com for more help!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
This is a new question about color. Now that Linen Quill has some exquisite new colors (and especially since the original bundles are temporarily out of stock),would you please design a couple of new options for this blanket? I’m eager to order and make one and I’ll bet you’ve been eyeing those new skeins.
Hi Cheryl,
Thanks for reaching out and for the kind words! We don’t have plans at the moment to add new colorways for this blanket, but I’ll be sure to pass your request along to the design team! In the mean time, if there are any particular color families you are interested in, I would be happy to suggest some color combinations!
Best,
Julianna
HELP! I’m on row 49 and, for some odd reason cannot do it! I know it’s like rows 17 and 33, but it’s just now making sense this time. Is there a video tutorial?
Hello Ann,
Thank you for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have a video tutorial. What is going wrong? Is there a specific part that is tripping you up?
I hope I can help,
Marilla
For some reason I get stuck every time. I cast on the 20 stitches to the empty needle, and then I’m stumped. I just can’t figure out from where to pick up the stitches. Any help would be very much appreciated.
After I’ve picked up stitches from the “top” the next row (the set-up row) is ready to be worked on the back of the throw, not the front as stated in the patters. I think I’m not picking up the correct stitches.
When I’ve picked up the stitches and am ready to do the set up row, I’m on the wrong side and should be on the right side.
Hello Ann,
Thank you for reaching out! After you have cast on your stitches you will, with the right side facing you, orient Square 1 so the cast-on edges are on the right-hand and bottom sides of the square. Because you are picking up on the right side, when you turn your work to start knitting you set up row you will be on your wrong side.
Does this make sense? If I can clarify anything let me know!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you, Marilla. Yes, it makes sense; however, the pattern says the set up row is done on the right side. I just don’t get it.
Ann
Hi Ann,
Thanks for reaching out and I apologize for the confusion! For Square 49, you will be following the instructions for Square 17, which has you pick up the stitches purlwise from the wrong side, so when you turn your work after picking up the stitches, you will have the right side facing to work the set up row.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am just starting out. I am making the small version. The first and 3- 16 require you to work with 31 stitches total.
The second square you only ask for 30. Is this correct? And why?
Hi Patti,
Thanks for reaching out! You should be starting with 31 stitches for each square throughout the blanket – for Square 2, you will be casting on 15 stitches and then picking up 16 for a total of 31.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
How many yards are needed for each large square? One response says 25 yards and one says 20. While the difference isn’t significant for each square, the total difference is almost 1000 yards.
Hello Jane,
Thank you for reaching out! You will need approximately 15 yards for each square if you are knitting the smaller throw or 20 yards for the larger throw.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Do you know which color has the most yarn leftover when making the large throw? I’m worried about getting consistent gauge on the knit and purl squares and want to do some practice swatches before getting started.
Hello Nicole,
Thanks for reaching out! Here is the yardage used for this blanket in the throw size;
Pale Oats 650
Wheat Flour 858
Lychee Pink 1116
Kiln Red 1310
Chestnut Red 1448
Rosewood Pink 766
Peony Pink 342
Honey Pink 189
Turmeric Yellow 74
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I would like to make the large mitred square blanket in warm, it is currently out of stock, would you know when it will be available? I would also like to know the finished size. Thank you for your beautiful patterns and yarns! Also I’m in Australia, I hope you ship to us!
Hello Robyn,
Thank you for reaching out! The throw size is 48 inches wide x 64 inches long. At the moment we are out of stock of the Warm Bundle, but you can sign up to be notified when we get it back in stock. To do so, go to the product page, select the color that you are interested in and enter your email address. When we get it back in stock, we will email you! Check out our International shipping page to see all of our shipping rates.
Happy Knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you for this pattern. I love it. But, I do not understand why the wrong side instructions for square 17 are different than 1-16 and 18? Shouldn’t the instruction be: Purl to end of row?
Square 1 Wrong Side Instructions:
Row 1 (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Square 2-16 Wrong Side Instructions:
Row 1 (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row. [same as Square 1]
Square 17 Wrong Side Instructions:
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to marker, p1, k1, purl to end of row. [different from Square 2-16, ignoring the purl difference]
Row 2 (right side): Purl to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, p1, pm, purl to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Square 18 Wrong Side Instructions:
Row 1 (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row. [same as Square 1-16]
Hi Jennifer,
Great question! Squares 17, 33, 49, etc (squares along the bottom short side) are constructed differently to the rest of the squares in this blanket. The reason is that we wanted to create a neater border along this edge that is naturally created on the other edges. That necessitated working the square using purls rather than knits. The wrong side rows have a single knit in the middle to keep the diagonal middle seem looking consistent with the knit squares. It is a bit different but it creates squares along this edge that are tidy and look like the other squares in the blanket.
I hope that this helps to explain!
Cassy
Hi, In terms of switching around colors a bit, which would be a better combination: A) Pale Oates, B) Wheat Flour, C) Lychee Pink, D) Raspberry Pink , E) Dark Iris, F) Peachy Pink , G) Peony Pink , H) Honey Pink, I) Mustard Yellow vs. Dandelion Yellow or
A) Pale Oates, B) Wheat Flour, C) Lychee Pink,, D) Sweet Potato, E) Raspberry Pink, F) Peachy Pink, G) Peony Pink, H) Honey Pink, and I) Mustard Yellow vs. Dandelion Yellow ? Or any other color switches that would look good ?
Thanks so much for your help!
Hello Ali,
Thank you for reaching out! While I think both of these options would be beautiful, I think your first collection has smoother transitions between your color choices.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m new to knitting, please forgive me for missing this, I’m sure it’s simple. I’m on square 2. I have cast on 15 and picked up 16 from square 1. I’m pretty sure my work matches your picture, but in my work, the only working yarn is now in the middle of the row, between the newly cast on stiches and the first square. No? What am I missing??
Never mind!! I figured it out…wasn’t using my working yarn, just picking up stitches. Thanks anyway!
Loving the pattern!!
Hi Jodi,
I’m so glad you were able to figure it out, and please don’t hesitate to ask if have any other questions!
Best,
Julianna
I am knitting the large blanket in the warm bundle kit. I am currently on square 151 of this gorgeous blanket. My problem is that I am out of Lychee Pink yarn although I have plenty of yarn remaining of the other colors. I do not understand how this could happen. Do I have any recourse other than buying an additional skein?
Hi Maxine,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m so sorry to hear that you are running short on one of the colors! Please reach out to us at customerservice@purlsoho.com and we will be happy to see how we can make this right!
Best,
Julianna
Hi, I was wondering how much gauge matters when making the large throw, as long as one’s knit gauge lines up with their purl gauge? Is it just a matter of having enough yarn, or is there another reason? I like the idea of knitting it a teeny bit looser but wanted to double check before starting. Thanks!
Hi Katie,
Great question! You can certainly alter the gauge here if you like. The big concern would be yarn usage. In a project of this size, as little as one stitch different over 4 inches can have a big effect on the amount of yarn used. A looser gauge will eat up more yarn. With a loose gauge you will definitely need more of colors B, D and G and depending on how much larger your gauge is you may need more of A, C, E, F and possibly H. This can be a challenge to calculate but you can certainly get an idea if you know that gauge that you are using and we would be happy to help if you let us know that gauge you are getting!
Best,
Cassy
Where do I place the marker on row 1 of square 17?
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to marker, p1, k1, purl to end of row.
Do I put the maker before p1, in between p1 and k1, or after k1?
Also, instead of knitting them together, I’m making individual squares and then sewing them together at the end (easier for me to do on the go!) – can I make the entire blanket in the style of square 17? I’m more proficient with purling than knitting (my knits are usually too tight)
Hi Helen,
Thanks for reaching out! Before Row 1, you should work the Set-Up Row for Square 17, which has you place the marker after purling the first 15 (20) stitches and before knitting the center stitch. If you are making individual squares, you can certainly work all of the squares purlwise – what a lovely portable project!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Do you have a bigger version of the chart?
Hello Sarah,
Thank you for reaching out! We do not have a bigger version of the chart, though we do have instructions on how to make the squares themselves bigger.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I am just finishing up on this beautiful blanket and loved knitting it. Can you give me a few suggestions on patterns I could use with the leftover yarn. Your latest posted pattern of the tube scarf would work but I am looking for more options,
Hi Barbara,
Great question! I think it would also be really neat to use our Easy Puzzle Blanket as inspiration for your own take on a geometric blanket combining various leftovers from the Mitered Corner Blanket. Some of the colors may have enough leftover to knit a Mock Cable Columns Hat or Tiny Stripes Hat or two, or combine a few colors for some Colorblock Hand Warmers.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi – I bought this yarn for the blanket and knitted my first square—no problem! But I’m a lefty, so when I try to pick up stitches to start the second square, I don’t know how to do it from the right side! I tried to do it from the other direction, but the mitered line goes in the wrong direction. Is there some obvious way to do this that I’m missing?
Hi Lina,
Thanks for reaching out! Even if you normally knit in reverse, in order for the miters to face the right direction, you will have to hold your needle in your right hand when picking up the stitches, as you can see in our Picking Up Stitches tutorial. As long as everything is oriented the same as our pictures for Square 2, it should work out!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi Julianna – Thanks so much for your response! I did try that (and managed to pick up with my right hand – which was nice to learn!). The only problem is, that when I want to start the next row, the working yarn is on the wrong end for me to knit with from left to right! I’m using circular needles, by the way, so that’s not an issue.
I really appreciate any other suggestions you might have!
I was thinking maybe I should just knit all the squares separately and then sew them together?
Hi Lina,
Hmmm, that is a tough one – translating a pattern to reverse knitting is quite a task, so kudos to you! Without seeing your work I’m not sure how to have you proceed, but you absolutely can knit the squares separately and seam them together for the same effect!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thanks. I am going to try to just sew the squares together. I’ve done a few and so far so good! If you ever do a lefty version of this pattern, I’d love to hear about it 🙂
I love this pattern and I love Linen quill. I recently finished the Nature’s Palette blanket (which I also love). The two color options for this kit are very similar to that blanket. Is there any chance you could create a new color bundle (maybe in pink 💕)?
Hi Julie,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for reaching out – we love hearing about your successful projects! I would be happy to suggest a pink colorway for this blanket! I would recommend:
Color A: 1 (2) skein(s) of Rhubarb Pink
Color B: 2 (2) skeins of Pink Pop
Color C: 2 (3) skeins of Bright Flamingo
Color D: 2 (3) skeins of Peony Pink
Color E: 3 (4) skeins of Pale Oats
Color F: 2 (2) skeins of Pale Mushroom
Color G: 1 (1) skein of Rose Granite
Color H: 1 (1) skein of Peach Stone
Color I: 1 (1) skein of Dark Iris
Best of luck, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Is it possible to make this blanket in cotton. If so, would you be able to provide me with the colors/amount/changes for the warm version in the large throw size?
Hi Eileen,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, we don’t carry any cotton that comes in as wide of a color range as Linen Quill, so it will be difficult to recreate that bundle exactly. Our Sweetgrass would be wonderful in this blanket and wouldn’t require any pattern changes as it is the same weight and yardage as Linen Quill, but unfortunately it only comes in neutrals. Another option would be Cotton Pure, which comes in a few lovely warm colors, but not as many as Linen Quill. I do think you could create a lovely palette of your own using Cotton Pure! Since it is a bit heavier weight than Linen Quill, I would suggest using it held double on a US 8 needle, and knitting Square 1 in the smaller size as your gauge swatch. You can then measure this square to determine how many squares total you will need to knit the 48″ by 64″ large throw. You will need 25 skeins total, divided between your selected colors.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Is there an online tutorial video of this project that covers the most asked confusing or trouble spots?
thanks ,judi
Hi Judi,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources at the moment to do a video tutorial for this pattern. We will keep your request in mind though for the future, and if you have any specific questions, we would be happy to answer them here!
Best,
Julianna
I had started a similar style blanket using some of my stash. Some patterns differ in the style of the double decrease. Can you tell why this pattern uses the S2kp?
This follows the design if Domino knitting
I have only begun so I may have more questions
Regards, Susan
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! Different decreases have different visual effects – in this case, a S2kp is a centered double decrease, meaning it points straight down away from the needle instead of leaning to the left or right, like a k3tog or sssk. This creates a visible, tidy line of increases running straight across the square diagonally. There are other variations of centered double decreases which would give a similar look, so if you have a preferred method, you can certainly use it!
I hope that clears things up, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I dont seem to be able to get the schematic to download with the pattern for the mitered corner blanket.
Hi Suzanne,
Thanks for reaching out! The easiest way to print the schematic is to right click on the image of the schematic and select “Open image in new tab.” You can then zoom in and out or print a larger copy!
Best,
Julianna
Hello! I love your posts and patterns. I really want to order The mitered Corner Blanket kit but im concerned about the softness of the yarn. I ordered a kit recently from a different site that was a wool blend and its sooo itchy. I am very sensitive to this and only want the softest coziest yarns touching my skin, especially for a blanket. If i order and find the yarn not right can i return?
Thank you
Hi Jill,
Thanks for reaching out! Linen Quill does have a somewhat rustic texture, which sensitive people may find a bit scratchy. It does soften up significantly after washing, so I do hope you give it a try! If you aren’t happy with it, any unwound yarn can be returned for store credit. You can see our full return policy here!
Best,
Julianna
Hi Purl Soho team! This blanket is stunning and I’d love to try it. However, I’m an intermediate crocheter but never knit before. Is there a crochet version you could recommend with these colour bundles? Alternatively, do you think this would be manageable as a first knitting project?
Could this work with Posy? I really enjoy the feel of that yarn and wonder if it could work and what kind of adaptations I would have to do. Would this basically take the same number if colors and skeins? Thanks in advance for your thoughts on this.
Hi Alicia,
Thanks for reaching out! Although the gauge is slightly different, Posy does substitute quite well for Linen Quill and would be lovely for this blanket! I would still use Posy held double but you may want to increase the needle size to a US 7. Rather than knitting a gauge swatch, I recommend knitting the first square, both to determine if you are happy with Posy held double on your chosen needle size, as well as to measure the square to figure out how many total squares you will need to knit for your desired blanket. You will also have to modify the color scheme a bit since Posy doesn’t come in as many colors as Linen Quill. For the Small Throw, you will need 15 skeins of Posy, and for the Large Throw, 23 skeins, divided between your selected colors.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I just love this amazing pattern and plan on starting it pretty soon. But I was wondering – as a big fan of the stockinette stitch – is it also possible to purl the wrong rows of this pattern, so that you the squares are created with a stockinette stitch? Or is there a (technical) reason why you choose garter stitch?
Thanks beforehand for your reply,
Aline
Hi Aline,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, due to the very different row gauge between garter stitch and stockinette stitch, the Mitered Corner pattern will not work in stockinette. Rather than squares, you would end up with diamonds. You may be able to counteract this by also working a decrease on the purl rows, though we haven’t tried it ourselves! If you are up for a challenge, you could try a square or two to see if the additional decreases result in the correct shape.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
I’m having trouble with the 17th square. I reduced the needle size all the way from 6 to 2.5 to accommodate the gauge while purling. The square is still loose and a little bigger. Help. I’m afraid that a whole edge of this layered square is going to ruin the whole blanket.
Hello Tina,
Thanks for reaching out, getting gauge can be very frustrating. How far off if your gauge? how many stitches per inch are you getting?
I hope I can help!
-Marilla
I have two questions. I bought the small throw kit. Which yarn do you think will have the most left over yarn? I need to make my gauge square and want to make sure that I use a yarn that has extra.
Second question is should I be making two gauge squares? One out of knit garter stitch and one in purl garter stitch? Each one should be 22 stitches by 44 rows and measure 4″?
Sorry but I am have only been knitting a year and don’t want to screw up! Thanks!
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! Because the squares for each blanket are very reasonably sized, I would suggest going ahead and knitting Square 1 as your gauge swatch! If your square does not measure 3″ by 3″ it will be easy enough to unravel it and start over with a different size needle, but if it measures correctly, you will already be on your way with the actual blanket. Again, although you could do a second square in purl, you might as well wait until you get to Square 17 and see how it turns out. Because the blanket is knit modularly, if it is the wrong size, you can unravel just that square without affecting any of the rest of the blanket.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I just purchased the “cool” kit to do the Mitered Corners Blanket. Love the colors and the pattern! I’m just wondering if there is a way to avoid cutting the yarn upon finishing every square.
Thanks,
Joy
Hi Joy,
Thank you so much for the kind words and for writing in! Unfortunately, because of how each square is started, it isn’t possible to leave your yarn attached between squares; however, if you stop and weave in your ends every few squares, it won’t be as much of a task when the blanket is finished!
Best,
Julianna
Hi…I brought enough skeins on vacation to get me through square 5… now I’m itching to keep going and am wondering if there’s any reason why I can’t skip ahead to square 17,18 since I have those colors on hand…then of course finish up squares 6 thru 16 when I get back. Thanks for your help,
Hi Anne,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, you could certainly knit squares 17 and 18 now, and even 19 and 20 if you have those colors with you!
Best,
Julianna
So I knit my first square and it isn’t a square. It ranges from 41/4 inches to just about 5. I know that I need to recheck my gauge, but even if my gauge was correct I have a square that isn’t square. I am also wondering what side is the tale supposed to be on when the right side is facing you. Thanks.
Hi Amelia,
Thanks for writing in! It sounds like you might need to block your square to get it to be more square shaped – this should also give you a more accurate gauge measurement! If you used a long tail cast on, you can see in the images for Square 2 that the tail will be at the lower left hand corner when the right side is facing; however, if you used a cable cast on, it will be at the top right corner.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am only on the first square and have run into a problem that is probably so obvious, but I’m not getting it. I have 2 stitches left before the marker. How do I knit this to finish the square? The directions say knit until 1 stitch remains. Do you mean even on the other side of the marker? I am confused. Thank you.
Hi Ann,
I hope I can help! It sounds like you are almost done with your square and have only 3 stitches left on the needle. For this final row, you will just work a s2kp over those three stitches, removing the marker and omitting the k1 from Row 1, so you have just one stitch left on your needle after the s2kp.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hallo, this Blanket is so beautiful!!! I’m going to knit it!
I wanted to register, but it didn’t work.
I put everything in, but nothing worked.
Thank you so much
Hi Veronika,
Thanks for writing in! If you are having trouble ordering the bundle, please reach out to customerservice@purlsoho.com and we will be happy to help! If you need to download the pattern, you can do so using our print function above. If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
Best,
Julianna
Hi! I love this blanket and would like to make it with Brooklyn Tweed Arbor (instead of 2 strands of the Linen Quill). Could you please suggest a blue-ish color way for this blanket using Arbor?
Thanks!
Hi Theo,
Thanks for writing in! I think Arbor in Thaw, Norway, Rainier, Lovat, Viridian, Treehouse, Dorado, Humpback, and Heron would create a lovely gradient for this blanket! Since you will be using Arbor held single and travelling back and forth through the gradient, I would recommend graphing out your color transitions before ordering to see how much of each color you will need.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Would you have suggestions for a colorway using cream, grays, taupe, beige? I have neutral decor in my bedroom with mostly cream colors with a little taupe and gray thrown in. This blanket would be gorgeous on my bed.
Thanks
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for writing in, and what a lovely suggestion! I’m happy to suggest a neutral palette for this blanket! I would use the following colors of Linen Quill:
Color A: 1 (2) skein(s) of Oatmeal Gray
Color B: 2 (2) skeins of Heirloom White
Color C: 2 (3) skeins of Stonewall Gray
Color D: 2 (3) skeins of Salt + Pepper
Color E: 3 (4) skeins of Stillwater Blue
Color F: 2 (2) skeins of Twig Brown
Color G: 1 (1) skein of Pale Mushroom
Color H: 1 (1) skein of Wheat Flour
Color I: 1 (1) skein of Pale Oats
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
I have two questions for you:
1. I see that the large cool bundle is sold out but the small cool bundle is available. I’m interested in the large cool bundle . How long will it be before it’s available? Is there any way you could create a large bundle from the two small bundles?
2. I’m a left-handed knitter. I saw an earlier post that said that this pattern doesn’t work for left-handed knitters. I think all you have to do is knit the squares in a different order. You start with #16 and finish the row with #1, then start the second row by adding to the new #1.
Hi Doris,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we only have one Small Cool bundle in stock, and we are otherwise completely out of Linen Quill in Oatmeal Gray so we can’t put together a larger bundle – I’m so sorry about that! We currently don’t have an ETA, but I assure you our mill is hard at work making more. If you enter your email address on the product page, we’ll let you know as soon it is back in stock!
It’s very difficult to translate patterns for left handed knitters who knit from left to right, but it does sound like that might work! Please do report back once you get started to let us know how it goes!
Best,
Julianna