Your basket is empty.
Continue Shopping
Mitered Corner Blanket
For the New Year, our gloriously artful Mitered Corner Blanket! A masterpiece in construction, color, and design, this next-level knitting project is as close as you can get to painting with yarn, nearly calling for a signature in the corner.
Its watercolor-y wonders run deep, with 192 squares that require absolutely no sewing. You just knit each square from corner to corner and pick up stitches along one or two sides of adjoining squares to continue with the next one, gradually gliding from one combo of colors to another.
All these beautiful in-between shades and gradations are possible by using our Linen Quill doubled. Get all the yarn you need with our Mitered Corner Blanket Bundle, available in two palettes: Warm and Cool. Both versions ripple through color with stunning beauty: a sometimes subtle, sometimes dramatic flow, from deep saturation to pale expanse, back to rich concentration, transformed.
Both palettes are available in Small and Large Throw sizes. Either way, the 192-square construction is the same, but for the Small Throw (pictured in Cool) each square is 3 x 3 inches, and for the Large Throw (pictured in Warm) each one is 4 x 4. In any size or color, this is the perfect get-involved winter project, a work of art to really immerse yourself in, as legit for hanging on the wall as it is for hanging on the couch!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Update: New Colors!
January 24, 2020
Our wonderfully watercolor-y Mitered Corner Blanket is now available in two glorious new palettes! The super fresh and punchy Dawn and Mountain color combos join our classic bundles, Warm and Cool, for a total of four equally stunning options. Read all about our two new color additions here!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Jake Canton. Click here to see even more of Jake’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Want to print this pattern? On desktop, find the “print” icon in the right margin, and on mobile, scroll to the end of the pattern for it. Use the on-screen instructions to remove anything you don’t want to print!
Materials
Our Mitered Corner Blanket Bundle comes in two sizes: Small Throw (top row, above) and Large Throw (bottom row). Choose also from a Warm (left) or Cool (right) palette.
The Small (Large) Bundle includes…
- 15 (19) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca and 15% linen; each skein of this fingering weight yarn is 439 yards/ 100 grams.
- Color A: 1 (2) skein(s); approximately 336 (650) yards required
- Color B: 2 (2) skeins; approximately 555 (857) yards required
- Color C: 2 (3) skeins; approximately 768 (1116) yards required
- Color D: 2 (3) skeins; approximately 879 (1309) yards required
- Color E: 3 (4) skeins; approximately 971 (1447) yards required
- Color F: 2 (2) skeins; approximately 507 (765) yards required
- Color G: 1 (1) skein; approximately 208 (341) yards required
- Color H: 1 (1) skein; approximately 140 (189) yards required
- Color I: 1 (1) skein; approximately 34 (74) yards required
The colors included with each palette are…
Warm Bundle
- Color A: Pale Oats
- Color B: Wheat Flour
- Color C: Lychee Pink
- Color D: Kiln Red
- Color E: Chestnut Red
- Color F: Rosewood Pink
- Color G: Peony Pink
- Color H: Honey Pink
- Color I: Turmeric Yellow
Cool Bundle
- Color A: Oatmeal Gray
- Color B: Pale Oats
- Color C: Vintage Celadon
- Color D: True Turquoise
- Color E: High Tide
- Color F: Mountain Bluebird
- Color G: Gray Denim
- Color H: Stillwater Blue
- Color I: Kettle Black
NOTE: For the Small Throw, we only used a little bit of the third skein of Color E. If you don’t end up needing it, you can return unwound yarn for a refund within 30 days of purchase, or within 6 months, for store credit. Our Return Policy has all the details! Also, a couple of customers making the Small Throw have reported running out of Color D. Please double check your gauge and be conservative with Color D tails!
You will also need…
- US 6 (4 mm), circular or straight needles
- A stitch marker
Gauge
22 stitches and 44 rows = 4 inches in knit garter stitch and in purl garter stitch, with yarn held double (see Notes)
Each Small Throw square should be 3 x 3 inches; each Large Throw square should be 4 x 4 inches.
NOTE: You will make some squares with all knit stitches and some with all purl stitches. Make sure your garter stitch is on gauge for both. You may have to adjust your needle size so they are!
Sizes
Small Throw (Large Throw)
Finished Dimensions: 36 inches wide x 48 inches long (48 inches wide x 64 inches long)
Notes
DOUBLE THE YARN
You will double the yarn throughout the pattern, pulling two strands together.
S2KP (SLIP 2, KNIT 1, PASS SLIPPED STITCH OVER)
Slip 2 stitches together knitwise wyib, knit 1, pass slipped stitches over knit stitch and off right needle. [2 stitches decreased]
For more on this technique, visit our tutorial here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/slip-slip-knit-pass-s2kp/
Pattern
Begin With Square 1
With two strands of Color A, use a Long Tail Cast On to cast on 31 (41) stitches.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K14 (19), place marker (pm), knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp (see Notes), remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull the tail through the final stitch.
Square 2
With one strand of Color A and one strand of Color B, use a Long Tail Cast On to cast on 15 (20) stitches.
With right side facing you, orient Square 1 so cast-on edges are on right-hand and bottom sides of square. Pick up 16 (21) stitches along top edge of Square 1, picking up only 1 leg of each edge stitch.
NOTE: For some tips on picking up, please visit our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K14 (19), pm, knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull the tail through the final stitch.
Squares 3-16
Working to create a line of 16 squares, continue by casting on 15 (20) stitches and picking up 16 (21) stitches along the top edge of each previous square. Follow the instructions for Square 2 and use the Blanket Schematic above to determine which combinations of yarn to use for each square.
Square 17
With one strand of Color A and one strand of Color B, use a Long Tail Cast On, Purlwise to cast on 15 (20) stitches.
With wrong side facing you, orient Square 1 so cast-on edges are on right-hand and bottom sides of square and Square 2 is on left-hand side. Pick up 16 (21) stitches purlwise along top edge of Square 1, making sure to pick up only 1 leg of each edge stitch.
Set-Up Row (right side): P15 (20), k1, p1, pm, purl to end of row.
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to marker, p1, k1, purl to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Purl to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, p1, pm, purl to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull the tail through the final stitch.
Square 18
With right side of fabric facing you, orient completed squares so that Squares 1-16 are a horizontal row on bottom and Square 17 is at top left corner. With two strands of Color B, pick up 16 (21) stitches along top edge of Square 2 and then pick up 15 (20) stitches along right-hand edge of Square 17.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K14 (19), pm, knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull the tail through the final stitch.
Squares 19-32
Follow instructions for Square 18, referring to Blanket Schematic to determine which combinations of yarn to use for each square.
Continue
Following instructions for Squares 17-32, continue to knit each column of squares starting with Squares 33-48. Refer to Blanket Schematic for order of squares and combinations of yarn used for each square.
Finish
Weave in all ends and block as desired.
Learn About Linen Quill + All Our Beautiful Yarns
We designed this project to highlight the uniquely beautiful qualities of our Linen Quill, a wonderful fingering-weight yarn that is a blend of 50% wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. It feels amazing in your hands, and in 70 jaw-droppingly gorgeous colors, Linen Quill is the candy store of yarn! Want to play with lots of those amazing colors? Check out our Linen Quill Minis, available in 40- and 20- color bundles!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our vast collection of (mostly free!) Linen Quill knitting patterns and cast on!
More Fingering-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of fingering-weight yarns (What does fingering-weight yarn mean, really? Our guide to fingering-weight yarn will answer your questions and more!)
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fibers
- Shop wool yarn
- Shop alpaca yarn
- Shop linen yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 45 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 1000’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
This is gorgeous! I wonder about using this pattern for a baby blanket. Is the linen quill a good yarn for babies? What would you recommend as a replacement if not?
Hello Corey,
Thanks for reaching out! The alpaca content (35%) in Linen Quill provides softness and we found it to be a great choice for our Four Points blankets, not in any way harsh. If you are looking for something machine washable our Posy yarn would be a beautiful option for this blanket. You will not get the same color design, but you could certainly make a beautiful blanket with the bright, cheerful color options for Posy.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Can you please explain what pm means in the following and other places in this pattern?
“Set-Up Row (wrong side): Knit 14 (19) stitches, pm, knit to end of row.”
I am sure that most know what these things mean, but I am not experienced enough to know.
Thanks!
Michele
Hi Michele,
Thanks for reaching out! PM is the abbreviation for “place marker,” so at this point you will place a marker on the needle. You can see our full list of abbreviations here.
Best,
Julianna
Hello,
Is it possible to have the translation in french of this pattern?
Thanck you for your answer!
F Bezault
Hi Fabienne,
Thanks for writing in! At present, our patterns are only available in English. We certainly appreciate the request!
Best,
Julianna
Fabienne, j’en ferai la traduction prochainement -pas tout de suite – et pourrai vous l’envoyer par mel si vous me laissez la vôtre via [email protected]
I too absolutely love this blanket and wanted to use as a baby blanket.
Practically, for me, it would have to be machine washable.
The POSY yarn is a different gauge.
Would / should the yarn be double stranded as in the original pattern
and what needle size would be recommended?
Hi Marlene,
Thanks for reaching out! Although the gauge is slightly different, Posy does substitute quite well for Linen Quill! I would still use Posy held double but you may want to increase the needle size to a US 7. Rather than knitting a gauge swatch, I would suggest knitting the first square, both to determine if you are happy with Posy held double on your chosen needle size, as well as to measure the square to figure out how many total squares you will need to knit for a baby sized blanket.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Beautiful colors! Just want to verify something about the construction. There are 192 blocks and the method of joining them will require the yarn to be cut after each block so you will have 192 ends to weave in along the way. Yes? Is there anyway to carry the working yarn or change pick-up location to reduce the cuts and weaving?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately, since each square begins with a new set of cast on stitches and does not start at the point of the previous finished square, you will have to cut your yarn to begin again. Also, you will have tails from both the cast on and cast off, so there will be twice as many tails. Although it does seem a bit daunting, if you stop after every few squares or every row to weave in all of the ends, it won’t be too huge of a task by the time you are finished!
Best,
Julianna
I am weaving them in for each row of 16 squares; it’s a nice diversion!
I love this, but I don’t care for either of the color palettes. Can you tell me what yarn colors I should purchase to knit the blanket in a neutral (grays and/or browns) palette?
Hi Norma,
Great question! For a neutral bundle, I would choose the following colors of Linen Quill:
Color A: 1 (2) skein(s) of Oatmeal Gray
Color B: 2 (2) skeins of Pale Oats
Color C: 2 (3) skeins of Wheat Flour
Color D: 2 (3) skeins of Pale Mushroom
Color E: 3 (4) skeins of Twig Brown
Color F: 2 (2) skeins of Stonewall Gray
Color G: 1 (1) skein of Salt + Pepper
Color H: 1 (1) skein of Stillwater Blue
Color I: 1 (1) skein of Kettle Black
Happy knitting, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
I’m so confused! How are you making squares of the same size when the 15 long tail cast on stitches go beyond the length of the square you’re connecting it to? The second picture with all of the stitches is really throwing me.
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for reaching out! For squares 2 through 16, after casting on 15 stitches, you will then continue with the same yarn and needle and pick up 16 stitches along the side of the previously knitted square for a total of 31 stitches. The second picture shows the 31 stitches on the needle after both casting on and picking up.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thanks for answering my question! Still confused, though! What throws me is that it seems like those 16 stitches you cast on would make it that much wider than the width of the previous square. Although now looking at the picture for square 18, I think maybe I’m seeing it — because of the decrease down the diagonal, are you essentially knitting each square from two sides at the same time? From the bottom (i.e. along square 2 in the picture for 18) and the vertical edge (i.e. along square 17 in the picture for 18)? I don’t think I’m articulating this very well, but I think I’m seeing it!
Hi Michelle,
I apologize for the confusion! You are correct, mitered squares always start with a cast on that is equivalent to two sides of the square, and are then shaped into a square with decreases down the middle of the stitches. Every square in the blanket, including the very first one, starts with the exact same number of stitches – in this case, 31 for the smaller size – though in some cases half the stitches will be cast on and the other half picked up, and at other times, all 31 stitches will be picked up. It really is a fun technique and it’s quite fascinating to watch a straight piece of knitting turn into a square, so I encourage you to give it a try – I think if you knit a square or two it will all start to make sense!
Best,
Julianna
Thank you, Julianna! I get it now! And my yarn arrived about two hours ago so I’m going to get started tonight — can’t wait!
This is a beautiful pattern! I have 4-5 skeins of LQ Rose Granite in my stash—do you think this color would fit nicely into the warm hue blanket? Or is there a color scheme you could recommend for Rose Granite? Thanks so much!
Hi Shellie,
Great question! You could certainly build a palette around Rose Granite! I would lean everything a bit more towards pinks and purples and suggest the following colors:
Color A: 1 (2) skein(s) of Peony Pink
Color B: 2 (2) skeins of Heirloom White
Color C: 2 (3) skeins of Oatmeal Gray
Color D: 2 (3) skeins of Pale Mushroom
Color E: 3 (4) skeins of Rose Granite
Color F: 2 (2) skeins of Peach Stone
Color G: 1 (1) skein of Dark Iris
Color H: 1 (1) skein of Purple Smoke
Color I: 1 (1) skein of Lavender Opal
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
That is very helpful! I love the grays and twig brown neutrals. Would these work with rose granite in place of the purples?
Hi Shellie,
Absolutely! Since the various colors are always held two at a time, neutrals can always be swapped in for other colors without disrupting anything. Twig Brown, Salt + Pepper, and Stonewall Gray would all blend in beautifully!
Best,
Julianna
wow, this is so cool, i am going to try it with the surplus wool that i have
What skill level is this pattern? I’m just getting back into knitting have never done anything like this but want to move on from basic knit & purl.
Thanks
Hi Joyce,
Great question! I would rate this an easy pattern for an advanced or confident beginner – the only other skills you will need besides casting on, knitting, and purling is a decrease which is explained in the pattern, and picking up stitches, which we will guide you through with our tutorial. I hope you give it a try – this blanket is certainly within easy reach for a beginner but will teach you a few new skills!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Martha, I really like the Posy yarn “Black Cherry”. If I were to use this in place of the dark blue in a baby blanket what other colors would you recommend? I’d like a blended look but need something that works in this pattern. I’ve never done the miter pattern.
Thank you!
Teresa
Hi Teresa,
Great question! Since Posy does not come in as wide of a color range as Linen Quill you won’t be able to create as large of a gradient range, but since you will still be holding your yarn doubled to blend the colors, they will transition smoothly into each other. For a baby sized blanket, you also won’t need to use as many colors since even our small throw would be a bit long for a baby. If you reduce the blanket to 12 by 12 mitered squares, you will only need 7 colors, and I would suggest the following colors of Posy for a blanket based around Black Cherry:
Color A: Black Cherry
Color B: Weathervane Gray
Color C: Drizzle Gray
Color D: Lilac Mist
Color E: Winter Heath
Color F: Pink Peppermint
Color G: Pink Papaya
I hope that helps, and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
I was also thinking Posy since I like the idea of machine washable, could you also get away with doing the smaller Pocket skeins for a baby blanket? Thanks! Love the pixelated look of this, it’s so cool!
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! Since you still need quite a bit of yardage and Posy has less yardage than Linen Quill, the only color you can get away with using one skein of Pocket Posy would be Color G. I would suggest the following amounts of Posy for a 12 by 12 square baby blanket:
Color A: 3 Pocket Posy
Color B: 2 Posy
Color C: 2 Posy
Color D: 3 Posy
Color E: 3 Posy
Color F: 2 Posy
Color G: 1 Pocket Posy
Best,
Julianna
I would also like to use this pattern for a baby blanket. Are there any other adjustments needed for the color layout when the size is reduced to 12×12 besides cutting off the last 4 rows? I’m concerned that I won’t get the same color effect.
Hi Breanne,
Thanks for reaching out! If you are using the original color bundles and cutting off the last four columns, although the overall gradient effect will still be lovely, you will miss out on using the last two colors completely. If you want to include those colors, since some of the other colors are repeated in the middle of the blanket, I would suggest planning your color combinations out on graph paper so you can decide which color combinations to omit to fit the final colors in at the end.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
This is indeed a beautiful blanket! I’m thinking of knitting it in a worsted wt (so no double strands) which would use less yarn. Can you recommend a worsted wt substitute? Thanks.
Hi Lee,
Thanks for writing in! Doubled fingering yarn is more equivalent to a DK weight yarn than worsted, so I would recommend looking at DK to light worsted weight yarns. Good Wool could be a fantastic choice, since it comes in a lovely gradient already, but you could also consider Brooklyn Tweed Arbor or Woolfolk Far since both come in broad color ranges that have a lot of possibilities for building gradient color palettes.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I was going to ask the same question wrt to a heavy, singular weight – love that the FAR is an option. This is a gorgeous pattern, despite the pesky ends. Thank you for creating.
I would love to make this in a king sized throw! (Maybe 108″×100″?) Any idea how to appropriately adjust the yarn quantities and the pattern?
Hi Jaid,
What a magnificent bedspread this would be! It is a bit tricky to determine how many more of each color you should purchase, since it depends on how you choose to combine and re-use colors for the added rows and columns. For the large throw, each square measures 4 inches, so I think your blanket will need to be 25 columns by 27 rows. I would suggest printing out the schematic and drawing on the additional rows and columns and writing in the colors that will be used in each additional square, continuing each diagonal row across and deciding which colors to repeat in added squares that are not connected to a diagonal row in the schematic.
Each square in the larger size uses about 25 yards of each color, so you can count how many of your added squares use each color and multiply those numbers by 25 to determine how much extra yarn you will need.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Your print option for the pattern download is not working. Is there some particular reason for this?
Hi Jazz,
I’m sorry to hear you’re having trouble with the print function! We aren’t experiencing any problems on our end, but we have had some reports recently that some pop-up and ad blockers can interfere with the print interfacing popping up. I would suggest disabling any ad blockers you are running and trying again, and if you are still having difficulties, please email us at [email protected] so we can try to troubleshoot this for you!
Best,
Julianna
another Linen Quill color question: I love Crocus Bud. Could it be worked into the Rose Granite palette you suggested above? If so, where? If not, how might you use it?
Hi Cheryl,
Thanks for reaching out – Crocus Bud is indeed a beautiful color! In the pinks and purples palette above, you could swap it out for either the Peach Stone or Lavendar Opal, depending on how much Crocus Bud you would like to incorporate, and still have a lovely gradient.
Best,
Julianna
Question about picking up edge stitches. I see in this pattern you are going through the very last bump on the edge stitch. In your tutorial for picking up stitches in garter stitch edge you go through the stitches “between” the two garter stitch ridges. Do I have this right? And why the difference?
Hi Judi,
Thanks for writing in! Although we did use the same technique of picking up from the “valley” between garter ridges in both the tutorial and the images in the blanket pattern, for the blanket, we picked up the stitches a half stitch closer to the edge of the square to minimize the bulk on the wrong side of the blanket. It does look a bit like the stitches were picked up from the garter ridge itself because of this difference, but we did pick them up from the stitches between the ridges by picking up only 1 leg of each edge stitch.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi, I am also having trouble working out how to pick up the edge stitches and have tried following the method described in the tutorial and also by picking up the purl bump closest to the edge. Neither seem correct.
And give a funny finish. Could you please explain further what you mean by picking only one leg, amd perhaps could you tdemonstrate how to do this with pictures? I would like to know I can get this right before purchasing, thanks, Julie
Hi Julie,
Although we unfortunately don’t have the resources at the moment to do a photo tutorial, I will try my best to explain this step! If you look at the stitches directly below each garter ridge, you will be able to see the individual V-shaped or teardrop-shaped stitches – you may have to stretch the garter ridges away from each other to see this clearly. When picking up each edge stitch, you will insert your needle directly into the middle of the V closest to the edge of the square, so that only one leg of the V, or stitch, is to the right of the needle. Since you are holding your yarn doubled, there will be two strands of yarn, but just one leg of the actual stitch. You can then wrap your yarn as if to knit and pull up the new stitch.
It may look a bit uneven, especially on the wrong side, but the first row of the next square should even things out quite a bit!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thanks for your repsonse Julianna, I appreciate your help. That does seem clearer and I will keep practising.
Good tip, saw it too late. Would be useful to have in pattern!
Hi,
I don’t like how garter stitching looks, would it be possible to make this in stockinette stitch by just purling the ws rows?
Hi Angie,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, due to the very different row gauge between garter stitch and stockinette stitch, the Mitered Corner pattern will not work in stockinette. Rather than squares, you would end up with diamonds. You may be able to counteract this by also working a decrease on the purl rows, though we haven’t tried it ourselves! If you are up for a challenge, you could try a square or two to see if the additional decreases result in the correct shape.
Best,
Julianna
I would like to increase the size of the large throw to 40″x60″, thereby adding 1 additional row to the width and 3 additional rows to the length. How many extra skeins of LQ, and how many of each color used, should I order?
Thanks for your help.
Hi Jean,
Thanks for reaching out! It is hard to say how many more of each color you should purchase, since it depends on how you choose to combine and re-use colors for the added rows and columns. However, the largest size is actually 48″ by 64″ already, which you may be happy with! If you do choose to add rows or columns, I would suggest printing out the schematic and drawing on the additional rows and columns and writing in the colors that will be used in each additional square, continuing each diagonal row across and deciding which colors to repeat in added squares that are not connected to a diagonal row in the schematic.
Each square in the larger size uses about 25 yards of each color, so you can count how many of your added squares use each color and multiply those numbers by 25 to determine how much extra yarn you will need.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
I cannot find a way to download the free pattern without buying the bundle. I have yarn and don’t need to buy any. Help!!
Hi Jayashree,
Thanks for writing in! You can either print or download a PDF of any of our patterns using our print function. If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I haver never knit this technique in the Mitered Corner Blanket before. I would like to try the technique before I buy the yarn. I would like to know how long the bundle will be on sale. Thank you for your time and support.
Sincerely,
Sheila
Hi Sheila,
Thanks for writing in! Our Mitered Corner Blanket Bundle will be on sale through Saturday, January 12th at 11:59pm EST.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I’m on my second baby blanket using this pattern. I’ve used Sirdar Crofter for both of them and it gives a beautiful result.
Would you consider doing a live video on how to this mitered throw so I can get it in my head how to do it
Thanks
Linda
Hi Linda,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources at the moment to do a video tutorial of this pattern, but we will certainly keep your request in mind. Thanks for the suggestion!
Best,
Julianna
Hi, experimenting to see if I can actually make this and having problems picking up stitches. If I pick up between the ridges I can’t find a ridge that will make it to the 16 th stitche. Do I somehow put my needle through the last stitch where the yarn was pulled through which made the point. If I do this where does the old tale end up ? On the front or back of the work? When I tried to go through that last stitch it looked sloppy. Also instead of picking up between the ridges does anyone ever pick up through the knots ? I’m trying to figure out to do this as neatly as possible should I attempt to make this pretty blanket.
Thanks for your help !
Hi Alice,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct, you will need to pick up the last stitch in the very corner of the square. At first the tail from the previous square won’t matter since it will still be at the outside edge of the work, but once you start picking up for the next row of squares, you can keep it tucked to the wrong side. Don’t worry if this spot looks a bit untidy, since you will be picking up another square in the same area, and you can always neaten things up when you weave in your ends. I have seen patterns that have you pick up from the ridges of garter stitch, so if you prefer the look of this method, please feel free to use it!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I understand that one could use a light worsted wool yarn (Good Wool or others?) to knit this blanket. Could you recommend specific colors and # of skeins to knit for large blanket in blues (could include neutrals/greys if needed) to ensure a nice gradation, using a light worsted weight yarn, since that is the beauty of this pattern? Will using light worsted wool have a similar structure to the Linen Quill yarn? I need to decide by tomorrow! Thanks very much.
Hi Margaret,
Thanks for reaching out! A light worsted or DK weight yarn will result in a blanket with the same dimensions and thickness and very similar surface texture, since the stitches will be the same size as if you were using Linen Quill doubled, but you will not have the same shaded smooth color transition since you will be using your yarn held single and not mixing colors as you move from one to the other. I would suggest using a yarn that has a good selection of blues and neutrals, such as Brooklyn Tweed Arbor, so you can replicate the gradient effect as much as possible.
To determine how much of each color you will need, you will need to plan where and how you will use each color you choose. I would suggest either printing our template or using graph paper to plan out your color placement, and then counting how many squares will be knitted out of each color. You will need approximately 15 yards for each square if you are knitting the smaller throw or 20 yards for the larger throw.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi, I love the look of this blanket and have ordered in the large size. I was wondering would there be enough Linen Quill left over from the throw to make something else? If yes, can you suggest something? Many thanks
Hi Chloe,
Thanks for reaching out! Although you won’t have any full skeins left over, you will have quite a bit of yarn left when you add it all up – about 1500 yards! I think it would be lovely to create matching mitered square pillow covers by scaling down the blanket pattern, or you could knit up a wrap or scarf inspired by the striping and color blending in our Nature’s Palette Blanket.
Happy knitting, and please let us know what you come up with!
Julianna
I love your patterns. However, could you make them more printer friendly – less pages. “Knitty” ( a pattern online publication ) is a good example of giving you a choice to print a copy with less photos. Or, somehow having the written instructions all together? so you could look online for the photos if need be.
That would be much appreciated.
Hi Uylond,
Thanks for reaching out! We agree, and our print function allows you to pick and choose which portions of the pattern or pictures to print or add to a PDF. If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi! What does picking up only one leg of the stitch mean? Just one strand? Also.. is there a formula or suggestion for how long the yarn should be (before casting on) to begin each square so that the remaining tail ( when square is finished) is as short as possible?
Thanks!
Hi Elvie,
Thanks for writing in! If you look at the stitches directly below each garter ridge, you will be able to see the individual V-shaped or teardrop-shaped stitches – you may have to stretch the garter ridges away from each other to see this clearly. When picking up each edge stitch, you will insert your needle directly into the middle of the V closest to the edge of the square, so that only one leg of the V, or stitch, is to the right of the needle. Since you are holding your yarn doubled, there will be two strands of yarn, but just one leg of the actual stitch. You can then wrap your yarn as if to knit and pull up the new stitch.
Although there are many methods to estimate how much yarn you need for a long tail cast on, since the cast on for each square is so short, I would just use a bit of trial and error! 15 inches or so would be a good starting point, and just take note of how much extra yarn you have and subtract that from the tail, making sure to leave a comfortable amount to weave in at the end.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I love the gradient colors of your Good Wool and had wondered about using it for this blanket, so I was glad to see you suggested it in response to a question here. How much of each color should I purchase, and how do I use the five colors to substitute for the nine colors in the pattern?
Hi Norma,
Thanks for reaching out! When you are using Good Wool, you will be using it held single and relying on the natural colors of the yarn to create the gradient effect for you. To determine how much of each color you will need, I would suggest either printing our template or using graph paper to plan out your color placement. Working across the grid of the blanket diagonally, you will want to go from the lightest shade of Good Wool to the darkest, and then move back through the scale to the lightest, and so on until you reach the end of the blanket. You can then count how many squares will be knitted out of each color. You will need approximately 15 yards for each square if you are knitting the smaller throw or 20 yards for the larger throw.
Happy knitting, and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Good morning! Lovely pattern by the designer! Colors are just beautiful. Two questions: I thought I’d added the large Warm bundle to my shopping bag this morning, and when I went to check out it was gone. Is it out of stock? Also, I appear to have missed the sale by a few hours. Will it be on sale again soon? Better yet, can you still offer the sale price since we’re so close to the sale window?
Hi Gwendolyn,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for reaching out! I’m very sorry that the bundle you were looking for was out of stock, but we have been working hard to build new kits and it is now back. Unfortunately our sale has ended and I can’t really say if we will be having another sale on this yarn or bundle any time soon, but if you subscribe to our mailing list you will be the first to know of any other upcoming promotions.
Best,
Julianna
My bundle just arrived and I am very excited! I read that “You will make some squares with all knit stitches and some with all purl stitches”, and for some reason I am missing which squares are made with all knit and which ones with all purl. Thanks!
Hi Anne,
Thanks for asking! You will work square 17 with all purl stitches.
Happy making!
Gavriella
Hi there! I’m on square 4. It seems as though the “pick up 16 stitches” should be “pick up and knit 16.” Otherwise, the Yarn is not correctly positioned to knit on the wrong side. Can you confirm, please? Thanks.
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out! The phrases “pick up stitches” and “pick up and knit” stitches are often used interchangeably to refer to the same technique, which you can see demonstrated in our Picking Up Stitches tutorial. Generally speaking, if a pattern does not specify how to pick up stitches, I would assume it means to pick up using the working yarn, since this is the much more common way to pick up stitches and usually results in a tidier edge.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi,
I love your pattern
I tried to do a few squares but they are diamond in fact
I tried to use smaller needles : same problem
Can you imagine a solution for me
Thanks for your help
Rebecca
Hi Rebecca,
Hmm, that is an odd problem! Is it possible that you are working the squares in stockinette stitch instead of garter? If the square is knitted in stockinette stitch, it will turn out diamond shaped, so you do have to knit every row. The only other possibility is that you are not working the decrease correctly. The sk2p should decrease two stitches at a time.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi, I’ve just read your instruction and would love to knit this BUT you are using skeins in England we have balls of yarn or wool of 50gr/100gr. Also is it our DK type or 4ply which is slightly thinner, what do your skeins weigh? I love both colour ways so the choice is hard, kind regards Sibylle.
Hi Sibylle,
Thanks for writing in! Our Linen Quill comes in a 100 gram skein that has 439 yards and is most similar to a 3 ply yarn. However, if you can check the yardage on your yarn I would strongly recommend doing so, since different yarns can have different amounts of yardage per pound. Ordering your yarn by yardage is usually much more accurate than ordering by weight.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Still trying to figure out how to do this. I am confused as to why starting at square 17 you start to pick up on the other side and purl since garter stitch is the same on both sides. And then you keep purling ? Do you do this for the rest of the blanket ? I think I’m missing something.
Thanks for your help.
Hi Alice,
Thanks for reaching out! Starting with square 17, in order to continue working from in rows and to keep the mitered squares oriented in the correct direction, you will be working purled squares. You have it figured out!
Best,
Julianna
For clarification, the pattern indicates that square 17 is worked purlwise, but the remaining squares in the row are worked knitwise. So, the first square in each row after row 1 is worked in the purl stitch, but the remaining squares go back to knit, until beginning another row. Is this correct (is the pattern correct), or all squares after that first row — the rest of the blanket — worked purlwise?
Thanks,
Margaret
Hi Margaret,
I apologize for the confusion – you are correct, the first square of each row starting with the second row will be purled, and all the rest of the squares will be knitted. Thank you for catching that!
Best,
Julianna
It’s all good, Julianna! Thank you for the quick response.
If only the first square per row is purled instead of knit, how does this affect the direction of the miter? The purled square is next to two knit squares, and they all point the same way. I still don’t understand why this is necessary. And my purl gauge is much larger than my knit gauge, so if it’s possible to knit them all, that would make my life so much easier.
Please help me understand why it’s necessary to purl. (I might just try knitting it to see what happens, I need to frog it anyway because the gauge is so off.)
Hello Joan,
Thank you for reaching out! Each square is knit in garter stitch and mitered squares always start with a cast on that is equivalent to two sides of the square, and are then shaped into a square with decreases down the middle of the stitches. Maintaining your garter stitch has to do with your cast on, every square that is purled is cast on with half a long tail cast on and half picked up stitches. If you knit every square you would get a row of stockinette in these squares creating and indentation.
I hope this all makes sense and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I understand what pm means but am I placing the marker on the 19th or the 20th stitch?
Thanks Daphne
Hello Daphne,
Thank you for reaching out! You are placing your marker between your 19th and 20th stitch.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi Marilla,
I am really confused by this. I thought that the marker should be on the 21st stitch so that the central decrease is always on the center of the square (i.e. with 20 st on either side). I’ve tested a square knit in this way and it worked for me so don’t understand how this pattern works…could you explain? Or is it because you place the marker right where you need to start the decrease as opposed to in the st immediately after?
Thank you!
Cecilia
Hi Cecilia,
Thanks for reaching out! The pattern is correct as written and you should be placing the stitch marker between the 19th and 20th stitch! Traditionally in patterns, especially those involving decreases, you always place the stitch marker at the beginning to show where the decrease will happen. for this blanket, the stitch marker is used to signify the beginning of the decrease, so you will come to the marker and that tells you that you are about to work the decrease, not work the decrease and then come to the stitch marker!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Finished my practise square and it went fine. But when this left handed knitter (hold the yarn in my left hand) casts on as directed with cast on edge and bottom edge in my right hand I of square one the yarn is in wrong place. Do you use “long tail” to knit set up row and then begin pattern. Thank you
Hi Karol,
Thanks for reaching out! After using the long tail cast on for the 15 or 20 stitches, you will then pick up the stitches (following the method in our Picking Up Stitches tutorial) using the end of yarn that is attached to the ball, leaving the other tail to weave in later. Your yarn should then be in the correct spot to knit the first row of the square.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi,
I have a hard time to read the diagram to find what colors I should be knitting. Probably a obvious question, but how ca I get the diagram bigger with the color letters clear?
Hi Maria,
Great question! If you right click on the diagram image, you should have an option to “Open image in a new tab.” You can then zoom in on the image and print a copy if you would like.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I will be making the larger size blanket and have never used a circular needle before. In the directions it states size US6 but what length should I purchase? In general how do I figure out what length circular needle to use? Thank you
Hi Amelia,
Great question! For this particular pattern, since you will not be working in the round and will only have at most 20 stitches on your needle at a time, you could use any length of circular needles, or even straight needles if you prefer! Most people find a 16″ needle uncomfortable to work on for longer periods of time because the tips are quite short, and a 32″ needle will have a good amount of cable that you won’t need that might get in the way, so I would suggest a 24″ needle.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
i just finished square one. the last right side row resulted in 3 sts on the needle: 2 stitches then the marker and then 1 stitch after the marker. I then knit the WS row and my final right side row was to slip the 2 sts before the marker, remove the marker, knit the last st and then pass the 2 slipped sts over the knit st. Is this right?
Hi Joann,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you’ve got it! Immediately after working that last s2kp, you can cut your yarn and draw it through the last stitch – no need to work another knit row on the final stitch.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’m 4 squares in and realized I’m not sure if I’m supposed to end on row 2 or row 1 when I reach one stitch left. So basically, I have 3 stitches left, I do the s2kp and then have 1 stitch, do I cut yarn and pull through then, or knit that last stitch on wrong side and then cut?
Thank you so much!
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! Immediately after working the s2kp, you will cut your yarn and draw it through the last stitch – no need to work another knit row!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello! I am getting ready to start my blanket and am a bit overwhelmed with all the skeins to wind, even though I do have a winder and swift. Do you know how it would work to pull from the inside of the ball AND the outside end of the same yarn ball cake when knitting with the same color, doubled? ie A + A ?
Just wondering your thoughts and experience with this. This would also make for easier transport when traveling and knitting on the go.
Hi Anne,
Thanks for reaching out! You could certainly work from both ends of the same ball when you are working a square that uses two strands of the same color! I have done this many times and it does improve the portability of the project.
Best,
Julianna
Hi! When attaching the squares, any suggestions on how to neaten the join between the cast on stitches and the stitches you pick up when knitting the first wrong side row. I am creating a gap at each one of these spots and can’t figure out how to eliminate it.
Thanks, Rose Marie
Hi Rose Marie,
Thanks for reaching out! Since you should have one of the tails from the long tail cast on dangling right at the transition between cast on and picked up stitches, I would simply close up the hole using that tail when you weave it in.
Best,
Julianna
Hi,
I am planning to make a single size bedspread with this pattern. I have worked out the number of squares I would need for each type of colour scheme but I am not sure how much yarn I would need. How much Linen Quill yarn should I purchase based on the below information?
A+A = 3 squares
A+B = 7 squares
B+B = 18 squares
B+C = 17 squares
C+C = 33 squares
C+D = 27 squares
D+D = 48 squares
D+E = 36 squares
E+E = 54 squares
E+F = 36 squares
F+F = 48 squares
F+G = 27 squares
G+G = 33 squares
G+H = 17 squares
H+H = 18 squares
H+I = 7 squares
I+I = 3 squares
Thank you!
Hi Abigail,
Thanks for writing in! This does depend on whether you will be knitting the small or large sized squares for your blanket, since the small squares take 15 yards of each color and the large squares take 20 yards of each color. For your blanket, you will need the following amounts of Linen Quill, with the amount for smaller squares first and for larger squares in parentheses:
A: 1
B: 3
C: 4 (5)
D: 6 (8)
E: 7 (8)
F: 6 (8)
G: 4 (5)
H: 3
I: 1
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Good afternoon. I am enjoying this project so much! I am working the warm blanket and the colors are perfect for my home except the final yellow…just a little too bright for my taste. Could you recommend a substitute color? I will be willing to change the lighter yellow also if need be. Thanks for your help and a wonderful kit.
Caron Mayo
Hello Caron,
Thank you for reaching out! I think the simplest solution would be to just continued with the Honey Pink instead of adding the Turmeric Yellow to the end. If not, I also think Pale Mushroom would be a beautifully subtle transition.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I love this pattern. How can I save it to My Favorites?
Thanks for your help.
Hello Angela,
Thank you for your kind words! To save this to your favorites you will simply click the “Save to Favorites” button right below the “Buy this Bundle” button on the right side of the screen.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi there – I’m almost finished my first row of blocks and am loving everything about this pattern. Can’t wait to snuggle under it with a book and a coffee in winter (I’m in the Southern Hemisphere and it’s definitely not blanket weather).
I have been thinking about the issue of the ends, and how much I was not looking forward to weaving them all in, so I tried carrying the ‘end’ with the yarn for 5 stitches when picking up across the top of the previous block, and bringing the tail from the final stitch of the previous block for 5 stitches when doing the set up row on the wrong side. Seems to work pretty well! I can’t see a huge difference in the size of the stitches, and the colours all blend in.
In Square 17, is the s2kp done in the same way as all other squares? Or are the 2 stitches slipped purlwise, then p1 and then pass slip stitches over?
Hello Betty,
Thank you for reaching out! In square 17 you will be doing your s2kp as you did in your previous rows. “Slip 2 stitches together knitwise wyib, knit 1, pass slipped stitches over knit stitch and off right needle. [2 stitches decreased]”
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi! Looking forward to making this blanket with some fingering weight yarn I have already. I think I may have enough to make a bigger blanket then the pattern – will I be able to attach an extra row or column once I make the original size? Or do I need to work extra squares into the pattern before I get started?
Hello EJ,
Thank you for reaching out! This is very exciting. You can add another row of squares, but it would be on the long side of the blanket so you would need to be sure that you have enough yarn for 16 more squares. Alternatively, you could add a square at the end of each strip, so instead of 16 for each strip you would have 17. If you do this than you would only need enough yarn for 12 squares.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi I love this beautiful pattern. Would you be able to recommend an alternative yarn without linen and color options for the blue version? Any modifications for making as a baby blanket? Thank you!
Hello Rochelle,
Thank you for reaching out! I think this blanket would be beautiful in our Posey yarn, especially for a baby blanket as it is made with super wash wool. The colors will be very different, but this just means you get to choose your own palette. To make a smaller version of this blanket you could just knit less of the smaller 3×3 squares for your first strip of squares. This will give you less squares, but it would be a simple modification.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Oh my goodness, this pattern is amazing!! I was wondering, is it possible to only use 6 colors instead of 9? Which colors do you think could be duplicated?
Hi Camille,
Thanks so much for the kind words! You absolutely can customize this pattern to use any number of colors or color combinations that you wish. I would suggest planning your color combinations out on graph paper so you can decide which color combinations you like the best and wish to duplicate!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I am making the small blanket. By hand, I wound all of my skeins into balls as I watched TV in the evening.
I have now realized that there are four colors with only one skein for the small blanket. Since we are instructed to use two strands of the same color for some squares I now have to turn those balls of yarn into center pull balls of yarn.
It would be helpful if, up front, there was a note that a center pull ball of yarn should be used when there is only one skein of a color. Also link that to a tutorial on winding a center pull yarn ball.
Hello Sandra,
Thank you for reaching out! I hear you- the process of winding all of these fingering weight skeins is certainly a project in itself. I will certainly pass along your comment. You can certainly make center pull balls, but you could also just wind your skeins into two separate balls.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Usually I slip the first stitch of every row. Would this work with this pattern? It makes an neater edge to pick up stitches.
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for reaching out! We haven’t tried it so I can’t say for sure how it would turn out, but you could try slipping the first stitch of each row and then picking up one stitch in each slipped stitch for the next square – you should end up with the same number of stitches!
Best of luck and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Hi there!
I always slip the first stitch of each row when doing these squares, and it makes for a very smooth edge that is much easier to pick up from. It also makes a nice edge on the squares on the outside of the blanket. If you k the last st. through the back loop I *think* it makes that stitch a tiny bit more stable and less loopy (I can’t remember it’s been a while, try both, they have slightly different qualities).
Hope that helps!
(Not an official response, just hopefully a helpful fellow knitter’s experience)
Hi, all!
Quick, silly question, I don’t know why this is tripping me up. Starting on SQ2, I cast on 20 stitches, then picked up and knit the 21 edge stitches from SQ1. Then I knit all the way across (on the wrong side, placing the marker after st19). Is that all correct so far?
If not, help!
If so, I’m not sure why, but, right side facing me, there is have flat space between the ridges of SQ1 and SQ2. It looks as if I was supposed to purl somewhere but didn’t. What in the world did I do wrong?!
Is there a way to send a pic if my description is confusing?
Thank you!
Hi Christine,
Thanks for reaching out! What you are describing sounds like the correct method for starting square two, and since you pick up the stitches from the right side and immediately knit on the wrong side, there shouldn’t be much of a space between the two squares. Have you tried knitting a few more rows to see if the stitches are just getting a bit distorted by being on the needle? You can always send us a picture at [email protected] if that doesn’t help, but I hope it does!
Best,
Julianna
I’ve knitted 8 squares thus far, and have an easy tip to recommend. When you have your darning needle out to bind off the last stitch of each square, use it to weave in the ends of the previous square. That way you still have the dangling threads of the square you just finished to guide your cast on, but you won’t have dozens and dozens of ends to weave in when you finish the blanket!
Love this pattern and would like to make it as a baby blanket. Do you have a recommendation for one of your yarns that’s can be substituted that’s washable and works with the variety of colors needed? Thanks so much!
Hello Margaret,
Thank you for reaching out! I would recommend looking at our Posy yarn. It is machine washable and incredibly soft.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello –
I’m attempting this blanket while on hip replacement recovery! I am not sure I started square two correctly, I have too many tails.
Can I upload a picture to this comment section?
Hi Ryan,
Thanks for reaching out! I am sorry to say that our site does not have the ability to upload photos but you certainly can email us at [email protected] and we will take a look and do our best to help!
Speedy healing!
Cassy
Hi!
I’m attempting this blanket right now and I’m transitioning from square 17 to 18. I seem to be finding more than 41 stitches total to pick up, do you have any photos that could be sent to me of where exactly you picked up the stitches?
Hello Grace,
Thank you for reaching out! This is certainly a tricky part. If you look at the photo located above under “SQUARE18”, showing the stitches you picked up from square 2 and square 17 you can see where your stitches should be picked up. I wish I had a closer photo to send you, but you can see from this photo that you will be picking up your stitches between your garter stitch ridges.
Are you getting extra stitches from both square 17 and square 2?
I hope I can help!
Warmly,
Marilla
I was but I’m on the third row now with no troubles with that anymore. However I’m having difficulty with square 17, 33, the first square of the new row that’s in all purl. My gauge is really off and it’s much looser than the other square I have. Is there another way to do it to make sure it’s nice and tight or is purl the only way to go. Thanks much!
Hi Grace,
Thanks for writing back! This can be a common problem as a fair number of folks have different purl gauge to knit gauge. The reason we knit these squares as purl garter squares is to maintain a neat edge throughout the blanket. If your purl gauge is different to your knit gauge, you may need to go down needle sizes on the purl squares to maintain the design of the blanket.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
When weaving in the ends, do you separate the two strands or weave them in together?
Hello Diane,
Thank you for reaching out! This is a great question- you can do it either way. I would reccomend separating the two for a bit more security, but it will work beautifully either way!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hello! This is a very, very small comment, but I see that in your schematic of the order and placement of the squares, you wrote “138” twice, and then went to 140. Clearly just a typo. Just thought you might want to know!
I might try this soon with yarn scraps, wish me luck !
Marie
Hi Marie,
Thank you so much for pointing this out to us! We have now updated the schematic so the squares are numbered properly. I do hope you will give it a try as this is a really fun technique!
Best,
Julianna
Hi,
I am going to knit this gorgeous blanket.
I went through the comments but I couldn’t see one that explain my doubt.
I am struggling in picking up stitches from garter, especially when you say “pick up one leg”.
I saw the tutorial but it looks like you pick up two legs …am I wrong? I tried to follow the tutorial but my wrong side doesn’t come out smooth ….
Can you hel me somehow?
Thank you very much !
Happy knitting
Marcella
Hello Marcella,
Thank you for reaching out! When you are picking up your stitches you are inserting your needle between your garter ridges grab a stitch from you working yarn. It’s always tricky to know what exactly without seeing it so If all else fails you can always send a photo to [email protected] for more help!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
This is a new question about color. Now that Linen Quill has some exquisite new colors (and especially since the original bundles are temporarily out of stock),would you please design a couple of new options for this blanket? I’m eager to order and make one and I’ll bet you’ve been eyeing those new skeins.
Hi Cheryl,
Thanks for reaching out and for the kind words! We don’t have plans at the moment to add new colorways for this blanket, but I’ll be sure to pass your request along to the design team! In the mean time, if there are any particular color families you are interested in, I would be happy to suggest some color combinations!
Best,
Julianna
HELP! I’m on row 49 and, for some odd reason cannot do it! I know it’s like rows 17 and 33, but it’s just now making sense this time. Is there a video tutorial?
Hello Ann,
Thank you for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have a video tutorial. What is going wrong? Is there a specific part that is tripping you up?
I hope I can help,
Marilla
For some reason I get stuck every time. I cast on the 20 stitches to the empty needle, and then I’m stumped. I just can’t figure out from where to pick up the stitches. Any help would be very much appreciated.
After I’ve picked up stitches from the “top” the next row (the set-up row) is ready to be worked on the back of the throw, not the front as stated in the patters. I think I’m not picking up the correct stitches.
When I’ve picked up the stitches and am ready to do the set up row, I’m on the wrong side and should be on the right side.
Hello Ann,
Thank you for reaching out! After you have cast on your stitches you will, with the right side facing you, orient Square 1 so the cast-on edges are on the right-hand and bottom sides of the square. Because you are picking up on the right side, when you turn your work to start knitting you set up row you will be on your wrong side.
Does this make sense? If I can clarify anything let me know!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you, Marilla. Yes, it makes sense; however, the pattern says the set up row is done on the right side. I just don’t get it.
Ann
Hi Ann,
Thanks for reaching out and I apologize for the confusion! For Square 49, you will be following the instructions for Square 17, which has you pick up the stitches purlwise from the wrong side, so when you turn your work after picking up the stitches, you will have the right side facing to work the set up row.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am just starting out. I am making the small version. The first and 3- 16 require you to work with 31 stitches total.
The second square you only ask for 30. Is this correct? And why?
Hi Patti,
Thanks for reaching out! You should be starting with 31 stitches for each square throughout the blanket – for Square 2, you will be casting on 15 stitches and then picking up 16 for a total of 31.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
How many yards are needed for each large square? One response says 25 yards and one says 20. While the difference isn’t significant for each square, the total difference is almost 1000 yards.
Hello Jane,
Thank you for reaching out! You will need approximately 15 yards for each square if you are knitting the smaller throw or 20 yards for the larger throw.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Do you know which color has the most yarn leftover when making the large throw? I’m worried about getting consistent gauge on the knit and purl squares and want to do some practice swatches before getting started.
Hello Nicole,
Thanks for reaching out! Here is the yardage used for this blanket in the throw size;
Pale Oats 650
Wheat Flour 858
Lychee Pink 1116
Kiln Red 1310
Chestnut Red 1448
Rosewood Pink 766
Peony Pink 342
Honey Pink 189
Turmeric Yellow 74
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I would like to make the large mitred square blanket in warm, it is currently out of stock, would you know when it will be available? I would also like to know the finished size. Thank you for your beautiful patterns and yarns! Also I’m in Australia, I hope you ship to us!
Hello Robyn,
Thank you for reaching out! The throw size is 48 inches wide x 64 inches long. At the moment we are out of stock of the Warm Bundle, but you can sign up to be notified when we get it back in stock. To do so, go to the product page, select the color that you are interested in and enter your email address. When we get it back in stock, we will email you! Check out our International shipping page to see all of our shipping rates.
Happy Knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you for this pattern. I love it. But, I do not understand why the wrong side instructions for square 17 are different than 1-16 and 18? Shouldn’t the instruction be: Purl to end of row?
Square 1 Wrong Side Instructions:
Row 1 (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Square 2-16 Wrong Side Instructions:
Row 1 (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row. [same as Square 1]
Square 17 Wrong Side Instructions:
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to marker, p1, k1, purl to end of row. [different from Square 2-16, ignoring the purl difference]
Row 2 (right side): Purl to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, p1, pm, purl to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Square 18 Wrong Side Instructions:
Row 1 (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row. [same as Square 1-16]
Hi Jennifer,
Great question! Squares 17, 33, 49, etc (squares along the bottom short side) are constructed differently to the rest of the squares in this blanket. The reason is that we wanted to create a neater border along this edge that is naturally created on the other edges. That necessitated working the square using purls rather than knits. The wrong side rows have a single knit in the middle to keep the diagonal middle seem looking consistent with the knit squares. It is a bit different but it creates squares along this edge that are tidy and look like the other squares in the blanket.
I hope that this helps to explain!
Cassy
Hi, In terms of switching around colors a bit, which would be a better combination: A) Pale Oates, B) Wheat Flour, C) Lychee Pink, D) Raspberry Pink , E) Dark Iris, F) Peachy Pink , G) Peony Pink , H) Honey Pink, I) Mustard Yellow vs. Dandelion Yellow or
A) Pale Oates, B) Wheat Flour, C) Lychee Pink,, D) Sweet Potato, E) Raspberry Pink, F) Peachy Pink, G) Peony Pink, H) Honey Pink, and I) Mustard Yellow vs. Dandelion Yellow ? Or any other color switches that would look good ?
Thanks so much for your help!
Hello Ali,
Thank you for reaching out! While I think both of these options would be beautiful, I think your first collection has smoother transitions between your color choices.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m new to knitting, please forgive me for missing this, I’m sure it’s simple. I’m on square 2. I have cast on 15 and picked up 16 from square 1. I’m pretty sure my work matches your picture, but in my work, the only working yarn is now in the middle of the row, between the newly cast on stiches and the first square. No? What am I missing??
Never mind!! I figured it out…wasn’t using my working yarn, just picking up stitches. Thanks anyway!
Loving the pattern!!
Hi Jodi,
I’m so glad you were able to figure it out, and please don’t hesitate to ask if have any other questions!
Best,
Julianna
I am knitting the large blanket in the warm bundle kit. I am currently on square 151 of this gorgeous blanket. My problem is that I am out of Lychee Pink yarn although I have plenty of yarn remaining of the other colors. I do not understand how this could happen. Do I have any recourse other than buying an additional skein?
Hi Maxine,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m so sorry to hear that you are running short on one of the colors! Please reach out to us at [email protected] and we will be happy to see how we can make this right!
Best,
Julianna
Hi, I was wondering how much gauge matters when making the large throw, as long as one’s knit gauge lines up with their purl gauge? Is it just a matter of having enough yarn, or is there another reason? I like the idea of knitting it a teeny bit looser but wanted to double check before starting. Thanks!
Hi Katie,
Great question! You can certainly alter the gauge here if you like. The big concern would be yarn usage. In a project of this size, as little as one stitch different over 4 inches can have a big effect on the amount of yarn used. A looser gauge will eat up more yarn. With a loose gauge you will definitely need more of colors B, D and G and depending on how much larger your gauge is you may need more of A, C, E, F and possibly H. This can be a challenge to calculate but you can certainly get an idea if you know that gauge that you are using and we would be happy to help if you let us know that gauge you are getting!
Best,
Cassy
Where do I place the marker on row 1 of square 17?
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to marker, p1, k1, purl to end of row.
Do I put the maker before p1, in between p1 and k1, or after k1?
Also, instead of knitting them together, I’m making individual squares and then sewing them together at the end (easier for me to do on the go!) – can I make the entire blanket in the style of square 17? I’m more proficient with purling than knitting (my knits are usually too tight)
Hi Helen,
Thanks for reaching out! Before Row 1, you should work the Set-Up Row for Square 17, which has you place the marker after purling the first 15 (20) stitches and before knitting the center stitch. If you are making individual squares, you can certainly work all of the squares purlwise – what a lovely portable project!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Do you have a bigger version of the chart?
Hello Sarah,
Thank you for reaching out! We do not have a bigger version of the chart, though we do have instructions on how to make the squares themselves bigger.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I am just finishing up on this beautiful blanket and loved knitting it. Can you give me a few suggestions on patterns I could use with the leftover yarn. Your latest posted pattern of the tube scarf would work but I am looking for more options,
Hi Barbara,
Great question! I think it would also be really neat to use our Easy Puzzle Blanket as inspiration for your own take on a geometric blanket combining various leftovers from the Mitered Corner Blanket. Some of the colors may have enough leftover to knit a Mock Cable Columns Hat or Tiny Stripes Hat or two, or combine a few colors for some Colorblock Hand Warmers.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi – I bought this yarn for the blanket and knitted my first square—no problem! But I’m a lefty, so when I try to pick up stitches to start the second square, I don’t know how to do it from the right side! I tried to do it from the other direction, but the mitered line goes in the wrong direction. Is there some obvious way to do this that I’m missing?
Hi Lina,
Thanks for reaching out! Even if you normally knit in reverse, in order for the miters to face the right direction, you will have to hold your needle in your right hand when picking up the stitches, as you can see in our Picking Up Stitches tutorial. As long as everything is oriented the same as our pictures for Square 2, it should work out!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi Julianna – Thanks so much for your response! I did try that (and managed to pick up with my right hand – which was nice to learn!). The only problem is, that when I want to start the next row, the working yarn is on the wrong end for me to knit with from left to right! I’m using circular needles, by the way, so that’s not an issue.
I really appreciate any other suggestions you might have!
I was thinking maybe I should just knit all the squares separately and then sew them together?
Hi Lina,
Hmmm, that is a tough one – translating a pattern to reverse knitting is quite a task, so kudos to you! Without seeing your work I’m not sure how to have you proceed, but you absolutely can knit the squares separately and seam them together for the same effect!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thanks. I am going to try to just sew the squares together. I’ve done a few and so far so good! If you ever do a lefty version of this pattern, I’d love to hear about it 🙂
I love this pattern and I love Linen quill. I recently finished the Nature’s Palette blanket (which I also love). The two color options for this kit are very similar to that blanket. Is there any chance you could create a new color bundle (maybe in pink ?)?
Hi Julie,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for reaching out – we love hearing about your successful projects! I would be happy to suggest a pink colorway for this blanket! I would recommend:
Color A: 1 (2) skein(s) of Rhubarb Pink
Color B: 2 (2) skeins of Pink Pop
Color C: 2 (3) skeins of Bright Flamingo
Color D: 2 (3) skeins of Peony Pink
Color E: 3 (4) skeins of Pale Oats
Color F: 2 (2) skeins of Pale Mushroom
Color G: 1 (1) skein of Rose Granite
Color H: 1 (1) skein of Peach Stone
Color I: 1 (1) skein of Dark Iris
Best of luck, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Is it possible to make this blanket in cotton. If so, would you be able to provide me with the colors/amount/changes for the warm version in the large throw size?
Hi Eileen,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, we don’t carry any cotton that comes in as wide of a color range as Linen Quill, so it will be difficult to recreate that bundle exactly. Our Sweetgrass would be wonderful in this blanket and wouldn’t require any pattern changes as it is the same weight and yardage as Linen Quill, but unfortunately it only comes in neutrals. Another option would be Cotton Pure, which comes in a few lovely warm colors, but not as many as Linen Quill. I do think you could create a lovely palette of your own using Cotton Pure! Since it is a bit heavier weight than Linen Quill, I would suggest using it held double on a US 8 needle, and knitting Square 1 in the smaller size as your gauge swatch. You can then measure this square to determine how many squares total you will need to knit the 48″ by 64″ large throw. You will need 25 skeins total, divided between your selected colors.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Is there an online tutorial video of this project that covers the most asked confusing or trouble spots?
thanks ,judi
Hi Judi,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources at the moment to do a video tutorial for this pattern. We will keep your request in mind though for the future, and if you have any specific questions, we would be happy to answer them here!
Best,
Julianna
I had started a similar style blanket using some of my stash. Some patterns differ in the style of the double decrease. Can you tell why this pattern uses the S2kp?
This follows the design if Domino knitting
I have only begun so I may have more questions
Regards, Susan
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! Different decreases have different visual effects – in this case, a S2kp is a centered double decrease, meaning it points straight down away from the needle instead of leaning to the left or right, like a k3tog or sssk. This creates a visible, tidy line of increases running straight across the square diagonally. There are other variations of centered double decreases which would give a similar look, so if you have a preferred method, you can certainly use it!
I hope that clears things up, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I dont seem to be able to get the schematic to download with the pattern for the mitered corner blanket.
Hi Suzanne,
Thanks for reaching out! The easiest way to print the schematic is to right click on the image of the schematic and select “Open image in new tab.” You can then zoom in and out or print a larger copy!
Best,
Julianna
Hello! I love your posts and patterns. I really want to order The mitered Corner Blanket kit but im concerned about the softness of the yarn. I ordered a kit recently from a different site that was a wool blend and its sooo itchy. I am very sensitive to this and only want the softest coziest yarns touching my skin, especially for a blanket. If i order and find the yarn not right can i return?
Thank you
Hi Jill,
Thanks for reaching out! Linen Quill does have a somewhat rustic texture, which sensitive people may find a bit scratchy. It does soften up significantly after washing, so I do hope you give it a try! If you aren’t happy with it, any unwound yarn can be returned for store credit. You can see our full return policy here!
Best,
Julianna
Hi Purl Soho team! This blanket is stunning and I’d love to try it. However, I’m an intermediate crocheter but never knit before. Is there a crochet version you could recommend with these colour bundles? Alternatively, do you think this would be manageable as a first knitting project?
Could this work with Posy? I really enjoy the feel of that yarn and wonder if it could work and what kind of adaptations I would have to do. Would this basically take the same number if colors and skeins? Thanks in advance for your thoughts on this.
Hi Alicia,
Thanks for reaching out! Although the gauge is slightly different, Posy does substitute quite well for Linen Quill and would be lovely for this blanket! I would still use Posy held double but you may want to increase the needle size to a US 7. Rather than knitting a gauge swatch, I recommend knitting the first square, both to determine if you are happy with Posy held double on your chosen needle size, as well as to measure the square to figure out how many total squares you will need to knit for your desired blanket. You will also have to modify the color scheme a bit since Posy doesn’t come in as many colors as Linen Quill. For the Small Throw, you will need 15 skeins of Posy, and for the Large Throw, 23 skeins, divided between your selected colors.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I just love this amazing pattern and plan on starting it pretty soon. But I was wondering – as a big fan of the stockinette stitch – is it also possible to purl the wrong rows of this pattern, so that you the squares are created with a stockinette stitch? Or is there a (technical) reason why you choose garter stitch?
Thanks beforehand for your reply,
Aline
Hi Aline,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, due to the very different row gauge between garter stitch and stockinette stitch, the Mitered Corner pattern will not work in stockinette. Rather than squares, you would end up with diamonds. You may be able to counteract this by also working a decrease on the purl rows, though we haven’t tried it ourselves! If you are up for a challenge, you could try a square or two to see if the additional decreases result in the correct shape.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
I’m having trouble with the 17th square. I reduced the needle size all the way from 6 to 2.5 to accommodate the gauge while purling. The square is still loose and a little bigger. Help. I’m afraid that a whole edge of this layered square is going to ruin the whole blanket.
Hello Tina,
Thanks for reaching out, getting gauge can be very frustrating. How far off if your gauge? how many stitches per inch are you getting?
I hope I can help!
-Marilla
I have two questions. I bought the small throw kit. Which yarn do you think will have the most left over yarn? I need to make my gauge square and want to make sure that I use a yarn that has extra.
Second question is should I be making two gauge squares? One out of knit garter stitch and one in purl garter stitch? Each one should be 22 stitches by 44 rows and measure 4″?
Sorry but I am have only been knitting a year and don’t want to screw up! Thanks!
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! Because the squares for each blanket are very reasonably sized, I would suggest going ahead and knitting Square 1 as your gauge swatch! If your square does not measure 3″ by 3″ it will be easy enough to unravel it and start over with a different size needle, but if it measures correctly, you will already be on your way with the actual blanket. Again, although you could do a second square in purl, you might as well wait until you get to Square 17 and see how it turns out. Because the blanket is knit modularly, if it is the wrong size, you can unravel just that square without affecting any of the rest of the blanket.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I just purchased the “cool” kit to do the Mitered Corners Blanket. Love the colors and the pattern! I’m just wondering if there is a way to avoid cutting the yarn upon finishing every square.
Thanks,
Joy
Hi Joy,
Thank you so much for the kind words and for writing in! Unfortunately, because of how each square is started, it isn’t possible to leave your yarn attached between squares; however, if you stop and weave in your ends every few squares, it won’t be as much of a task when the blanket is finished!
Best,
Julianna
Hi…I brought enough skeins on vacation to get me through square 5… now I’m itching to keep going and am wondering if there’s any reason why I can’t skip ahead to square 17,18 since I have those colors on hand…then of course finish up squares 6 thru 16 when I get back. Thanks for your help,
Hi Anne,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, you could certainly knit squares 17 and 18 now, and even 19 and 20 if you have those colors with you!
Best,
Julianna
So I knit my first square and it isn’t a square. It ranges from 41/4 inches to just about 5. I know that I need to recheck my gauge, but even if my gauge was correct I have a square that isn’t square. I am also wondering what side is the tale supposed to be on when the right side is facing you. Thanks.
Hi Amelia,
Thanks for writing in! It sounds like you might need to block your square to get it to be more square shaped – this should also give you a more accurate gauge measurement! If you used a long tail cast on, you can see in the images for Square 2 that the tail will be at the lower left hand corner when the right side is facing; however, if you used a cable cast on, it will be at the top right corner.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am only on the first square and have run into a problem that is probably so obvious, but I’m not getting it. I have 2 stitches left before the marker. How do I knit this to finish the square? The directions say knit until 1 stitch remains. Do you mean even on the other side of the marker? I am confused. Thank you.
Hi Ann,
I hope I can help! It sounds like you are almost done with your square and have only 3 stitches left on the needle. For this final row, you will just work a s2kp over those three stitches, removing the marker and omitting the k1 from Row 1, so you have just one stitch left on your needle after the s2kp.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hallo, this Blanket is so beautiful!!! I’m going to knit it!
I wanted to register, but it didn’t work.
I put everything in, but nothing worked.
Thank you so much
Hi Veronika,
Thanks for writing in! If you are having trouble ordering the bundle, please reach out to [email protected] and we will be happy to help! If you need to download the pattern, you can do so using our print function above. If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
Best,
Julianna
Hi! I love this blanket and would like to make it with Brooklyn Tweed Arbor (instead of 2 strands of the Linen Quill). Could you please suggest a blue-ish color way for this blanket using Arbor?
Thanks!
Hi Theo,
Thanks for writing in! I think Arbor in Thaw, Norway, Rainier, Lovat, Viridian, Treehouse, Dorado, Humpback, and Heron would create a lovely gradient for this blanket! Since you will be using Arbor held single and travelling back and forth through the gradient, I would recommend graphing out your color transitions before ordering to see how much of each color you will need.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Would you have suggestions for a colorway using cream, grays, taupe, beige? I have neutral decor in my bedroom with mostly cream colors with a little taupe and gray thrown in. This blanket would be gorgeous on my bed.
Thanks
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for writing in, and what a lovely suggestion! I’m happy to suggest a neutral palette for this blanket! I would use the following colors of Linen Quill:
Color A: 1 (2) skein(s) of Oatmeal Gray
Color B: 2 (2) skeins of Heirloom White
Color C: 2 (3) skeins of Stonewall Gray
Color D: 2 (3) skeins of Salt + Pepper
Color E: 3 (4) skeins of Stillwater Blue
Color F: 2 (2) skeins of Twig Brown
Color G: 1 (1) skein of Pale Mushroom
Color H: 1 (1) skein of Wheat Flour
Color I: 1 (1) skein of Pale Oats
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
I have two questions for you:
1. I see that the large cool bundle is sold out but the small cool bundle is available. I’m interested in the large cool bundle . How long will it be before it’s available? Is there any way you could create a large bundle from the two small bundles?
2. I’m a left-handed knitter. I saw an earlier post that said that this pattern doesn’t work for left-handed knitters. I think all you have to do is knit the squares in a different order. You start with #16 and finish the row with #1, then start the second row by adding to the new #1.
Hi Doris,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we only have one Small Cool bundle in stock, and we are otherwise completely out of Linen Quill in Oatmeal Gray so we can’t put together a larger bundle – I’m so sorry about that! We currently don’t have an ETA, but I assure you our mill is hard at work making more. If you enter your email address on the product page, we’ll let you know as soon it is back in stock!
It’s very difficult to translate patterns for left handed knitters who knit from left to right, but it does sound like that might work! Please do report back once you get started to let us know how it goes!
Best,
Julianna
Hi Doris,
Were you able to make this pattern work by beginning with square 16? I am a left handed knitter and struggling to translate the pattern to make it work for me.
Thanks!
Hi!
I am starting square 18, and a little confused.. this may seem obvious to some, but I’m unsure. Do you still “fasten” (for lack of a better word) your yarn to your needle with a slip knot before picking up the stitches, or just dive right in?
Picking up stitches is a relatively new concept for me, so I’m not sure how to start a row picking up all the stitches.
Thank you so much!
Connie
Hi Connie,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m happy to clarify this step for you! You do not need to attach your yarn in any way when you begin picking up stitches. You can simply insert your needle into the spot where you need to pick up the first stitch, wrap your yarn as if to knit, and pull up the new stitch. Because the yarn isn’t attached anywhere else, you do have to be careful not to pull too hard either on the needle or the yarn as you could accidentally pull the stitch out completely, but once you have one or two more stitches picked up everything should feel much more secure.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
The squares looks deceptively simple but then reading the instructions & various comments are super confusing. Can you make a YouTube video of how to knit the first square & then the rest and how they attach?
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for reaching out! We don’t have the resources at the moment to create a video for this pattern, but I will be sure to pass your request along to the design team! Each square is fairly small and fast to knit, so I would definitely recommend trying one out in scrap yarn to see how it goes!
Best,
Julianna
Hello, and please help! I finished square 1 and cast on the 21 stitches for the next square, but I’m very confused about picking up the stitches from square 1. Why do I cast on instead of just starting with pickups? I don’t see a cast on prior to pickup in any of the video tutorials, but the pictures in the pattern all show differently. I hope everyone is safe and healthy and can’t wait to come visit when your doors are open again!
Hi Beth,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for reaching out! To attach the squares in the correct order, you do need to cast on half the stitches for Square 2 and pick up half the stitches. This is a technique specific to this pattern, so we don’t show it in our Picking Up Stitches tutorial, but you will simply cast on the stitches, then use the yarn tail that is still attached to the ball of yarn to pick up stitches from Square 1. After picking up the stitches, your work should look like the second picture under Square 2. It does sound odd, but I assure you that it works out beautifully!
Best,
Julianna
Thank you so much! I feel so derpy for my confusion, and I appreciate the response.
When I pick up the stitches, I end up with a slight ridge on the wrong side. Is it supposed to be that way?
Hi Cathy!
Thanks for reaching out! If you look at the photos where the edge of the blanket is turned back, there is a slight ridge on the wrong side where the squares are joined. Hope this helps – happy knitting!
Best,
Cassandra
On the final stitch of the square, do you have a tip on making it neater? I end up with a knot or bump which is a little unsightly and hard to work around when you cast on for the next square. Maybe it’s me. Thank you so much for all of your help.
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for reaching out! This is quite normal when finishing these squares, and I’m afraid there isn’t a really good fix for it. If you finish off your final stitch by putting the tail through the loop of the last stitch and pulling it tight, you might try instead simply pulling the loop of the last stitch larger until the tail pops through. This will still result in a spot that feels like a knot, but it might be a little smaller. Either way, as long as you don’t pull it too tight, you should be able to pick up a stitch in this corner when starting the next square to disguise it!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
for some reason, i am unable to print the lovely mitred square blanket pattern. is it possible to find a printable version somewhere?
thank you very much for any assistance you may offer.
Hi Trudy,
Thanks for for reaching out! You can use our print function to print a copy of any of our patterns! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Perusing your Cotton Pure yarn selection to make this as a baby blanket for a friend. I would be making the smaller size (36X48 with the 3-inch squares). I’m terrible at picking out colors. She’s crazy about purple, so I was leaning toward purple petunia as the showstopper here. Would like to throw in a pink square somewhere, since she’s having a girl. Also, how much yarn should I get make the small throw? Thanks in advance!
Hi Shara,
Thanks for reaching out! Since Cotton Pure doesn’t come in as many colors as Linen Quill, you will have to repeat some colors in your blanket, but I think Gray Birch, Silver Quartz, Wild Lavender, Purple Petunia, Gray Shale, Beach Rose, and Heirloom White would be lovely together! Also, Cotton Pure is a bit heavier weight than Linen Quill, so I would suggest using it held double on a US 8 needle, and knitting Square 1 in the smaller size as your gauge swatch. It will turn out larger than our original square for the Small Throw, but you can measure this square to determine how many squares total you will need to make a blanket that measures 36 by 48 inches. You can also weigh this square and multiply that amount by how many squares you will be knitting to figure out how much yarn you will need!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello there,
I just began working on this beautiful blanket. I’ve cast on 20 stitches for square 2, but I’m a bit confused with how to pick up stitches from square 1.
-After casting on, do you use the remaining long tail to pick up the stitches?
-What do you mean by picking up only 1 leg of each stitch? Would I be doing it right if I simply follow your picking-up stitch tutorial?
Thanks so much!
Hi Veronica
Thanks for the question! After you cast on the 20 stitches your yarn will still be at the end of your right needle, and you will use it to pick up and knit the next 16(21) stitches from Square 1. After picking up the stitches, your work should look like the second picture under Square 2. Although we, unfortunately, don’t have the resources at the moment to do a photo tutorial, I will try my best to explain this step! If you look at the stitches directly below each garter ridge, you will be able to see the individual V-shaped or teardrop-shaped stitches – you may have to stretch the garter ridges away from each other to see this clearly. When picking up each edge stitch, you will insert your needle directly into the middle of the V closest to the edge of the square, so that only one leg of the V, or stitch, is to the right of the needle. Since you are holding your yarn doubled, there will be two strands of yarn, but just one leg of the actual stitch. You can then wrap your yarn as if to knit and pull up the new stitch. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting
Jessica
I’m not having trouble picking up those stitches from square one and the photo DOES look like what I’ve got. BUT I can’t figure out how to begin knitting with the new yarn hanging where it is …
I’m missing something….!
Hi Barbara,
Glad to hear that your stitches look correct so far! Once you’ve picked up all the required stitches, you can just turn your work so that the wrong side is facing you. When you’ve done that, your working yarn will be in the exact position to begin knitting Set-Up Row (wrong side). Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Why do you pick up only one keg of the edge stitch rather than both legs?
Hi Maura,
Thanks for reaching out! You only pick up 1 leg because both legs would cause the stitch to drop. Please check out our Picking Up Stitches tutorial, it will show you the correct way to pick up stitches for the most neat look!
All the best,
Gianna
Hello
Can you please let me know how much of the third skein of Kiln red (colour D) do you end up using for the large size? I have some left over and wondering if I need to buy a third skein or not…
Thanks
Kate
Hi Kate,
Thanks for reaching out! For the large throw, we used about 1,309 yards of Kiln Red, so you won’t have very much leftover at all! For a few of the colors in this blanket, if your gauge isn’t spot on, you may run out of yarn, so I would recommend double-checking your gauge and weighing your yarn as you go to see if you will have enough. If you would like to be on the safe side, you can always order the extra skein, and as long as it isn’t wound, you can return it for store credit!
Best,
Julianna
Hi! I own the bundle for the large red version of this beautiful blanket and was wondering which of the colors has the greatest amount of left over yarn, if any. I tend to cut off my swatch to keep as a yarn example and prevent reusing yarn more than thrice, but I know the pattern points out some of the yarn can be in tight supply.
Hi Carolina,
Great question! You should have plenty of extra yardage in Color H or I.
Happy knitting!
Julianna1
Thank you!
Hi, I purchased the large blanket bundle – warm colours. As I’m a slow knitter and I’m inclined to leave fairly long tails, are there any skeins that I might run short of? If so, I’d like to order them now, in case it’s discontinued before I finish it! I’m really enjoying the project and thanks for giving the pattern
Hi Margaret,
Great question! We have had a few reports of customers running out of Color D, which is Kiln Red in your bundle, so you could order one more skein if you’re concerned! Although nobody has actually run out of any other colors, the yardage is also quite close for Color A, Wheat Flour and Color F, Rosewood Pink. If you don’t end up needing the extra skeins and they haven’t been wound, you can return them for store credit!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I had to order one more skein of kiln red for the large blanket. Now all I need to do is sew in my ends. The blanket took a year on and off. Hard to do in the summer when it gets heavy on your lap ! It’s beautiful and worth the work. I have a photo that shows how gorgeous the pattern is. Would love to attach it.
Hi LouAnne,
Thank you so much for following up! We are thrilled to hear your blanket is complete and would love to see a finished photo! You can upload it to our website to be seen by other makers or you can email it in to our team at [email protected]!
Happy making,
Gavriella
I would love to make it with Sweetgrass fine. That yarn is soft and so nice to knit. What would be the right mix of colors to get shades of neutral?
Hi Diane,
Thanks for writing in! Although Sweetgrass Fine is too thin for this blanket, our original Sweetgrass comes in the same color palette and would be a wonderful choice! Since it only comes in five colors, you won’t be able to replicate the same gradient as the original blanket, but I think it would be lovely to shade from light to dark and back to light across the blanket diagonally. To do so, you will start by knitting Square 1 in two strands of Heirloom White, then knit Square 2 in one strand of Heirloom White and one strand of Pale Sesame, then knit Square 3 in two strands of Pale Sesame, then Square 4 in one strand of Pale Sesame and one strand of Buckwheat Beige, and so on until you knit Square 11 in two strands of the darkest color, Beech Bark. You will then move back through the colors from dark to light until you get to the end of the first row of squares. Before getting started, I would recommend printing out our color schematic and planning out your color combinations and changes, making sure each diagonal line of squares are knit with the same combination.
I hope that helps, and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Thanks! I appreciate your suggestions.
Hi this blanket is beautiful. Do you have a graph that I could follow to show where to place each coloured square.? I can’t see the whole blanket in your pictures. Thanks
Hi Joanne,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, you can find a schematic of the entire blanket right under the heading “Squares 3-16!” If you would like to print it or view it larger, you can right click on the schematic and select “Open image in new tab.”
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Love this pattern. I was wondering if this could be knit with the Linen Quill Worsted rather than 2 strands of Linen Quill. If so, how many balls of each would I need? If this is not possible or would not look right, what other yarn could I use to achieve the same look but only using one strand? Thanks – can’t wait to try this.
Arlene Anderson
Hi Arlene,
Thanks for writing in! Although I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch before getting started, yes, you could certainly knit this blanket using a single strand of Linen Quill Worsted! The gauge and scale of the blanket will be very similar, but the color gradation won’t be quite as smooth as ours since each block will be a solid color instead of two colors blended together. You will need 2,207 (3,535) yards total divided between your chosen colors, or about 15 (20) yards per square. The best way to figure out how much of each color will need is to print out our diagram or plot out your blanket on graph paper. You can then count up how many squares there will be each color, multiply that number by 15 (20) yards per square, and then divide that number into 164 yards per skein of Linen Quill Worsted to determine how many skeins of each color to buy.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
What do you think about using the new linen quill worsted for this? Same size needle, and just calculate the yardage? Or go up in needle size, and just have a bigger blanket? Thanks!
Hi Amanda,
Great question! Although I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch before getting started, I think Linen Quill Worsted held single should work well on a US 7! The gauge and scale of the blanket will be very similar, but the color gradation won’t be quite as smooth as ours since each block will be a solid color instead of two colors blended together. You will need 2,207 (3,535) yards total divided between your chosen colors, or about 15 (20) yards per square. The best way to figure out how much of each color will need is to print out our diagram or plot out your blanket on graph paper. You can then count up how many squares there will be each color, multiply that number by 15 (20) yards per square, and then divide that number into 164 yards per skein of Linen Quill Worsted to determine how many skeins of each color to buy.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
I would love to knit this blanket! I’m still having trouble visualizing the process of picking up 16 stitches though. If you have one stitch from square 1 left on the needle, and you cast on 15, how many “new” edge stitches are you picking up? I’m afraid to dive in and try this blanket before I understand how it all works!
Hi Tracy,
Thanks for writing in! I know this seems like a complicated project but it is actually pretty easy! For Square 1 you will be repeating pattern Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains, and then you will cut your working yarn and pull the tail through the final stitch so bind it off! You will then be casting on 15 or 20 stitches (depending on what size you are making.) After that, with the right side facing you, orient Square 1 so the cast-on edges are on the right-hand and bottom sides of the square. Next, you will be picking up 16 (21) stitches along the top edge of Square 1, picking up only 1 leg of each edge stitch (please check out our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial!) After you pick up the stitches you will then continue on to the Set Up round and begin knitting the 2nd square!
I hope this clarifies things and please feel free to reach out with any more questions you may have going forward!
All the best,
Gianna
I love the colours and shapes in this blanket. I have tried knitting the first square several times and each time it has knitted up as a rectangle rather than a square with remaining stitches to the left of the decrease (mitre) line. I keep re-reading the instructions to make sure I am following them correctly but just can’t see my error. Please advise me.
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for reaching out! Please email us a photo of your work to our email [email protected] and we can help troubleshoot further from there!
All the best,
Gianna
I’m a loose but very steady knitter with even tension. To make a 4-inch square, I’m working with size 5 needles and making fewer stitches per square. (I can’t fathom using a smaller needle to make a blanket.) But my square shapes are not consistent and it’s hard to find all 18 stitches to pick up. These are my stitch modifications. Shouldn’t this work?
• Rather than casting on 41 stiches at the start, cast on 35.
• At Square 2, cast on 17 and pick up 18 along the edge of Square 1.
• At the set-up row, knit 16 and place the marker.
Also, is the last stitch of each square “s2kp” or should it end on a knit?
I can’t believe I’m finding such a simple mitered square pattern to be so challenging! I have a strip 9-squares long but have not yet found my flow! Thank you for your thoughts and suggestions.
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! That looks like it should work to me, as long as you are consistent with each square! I recommend checking out our
Picking Up Stitches tutorial, it is very useful and may help you a bit! Also, the last stitch should not be a s2kp, for row 1 (right side) you should knit to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row, 2 stitches decreased and ending with a knit stitch and then for Row 2 (wrong side) you should be knitting every stitch to the end of row.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thank you for the confirmation, Gianna! Could be that the pattern’s simplicity sets me too much at ease and my mind wanders! It’s lovely and the colors are gorgeous and I know the finished piece will be dazzling!
Hi Susan,
I totally understand what you mean! I am happy to help and can’t wait to hear how your blanket turns out, this is such a fun and beautiful pattern!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
I was wondering if there is a crochet pattern for this?
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, we don’t have this pattern available for crochet but thank you for expressing your interest and I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi! I understand this pattern almost 100%.. The only part I don’t understand is which squares will end up using all purl and which use all knit. Squares 1-16 use all knit, then when you cast on for square 17 it switches to all purl stitches all the way to 32.
Will you cast on knit wise for square 33 and then for the entire row it will be all knit stitch? Basically is it every other row will be knit then purl??
Hi Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct! For squares 1-16 you are knitting every row of each square, then for rows 17-32 you will purl every row of each square, and then so on and so forth switching between the two every other row!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
I didn’t think I was confused before, but now I am! I understand that square 17 is all purl, but the pattern instructions say that the rest of that row (18-32) is all knit (so that only the first square in each row after the first one is purl). Your note to Emily says rows 18-32 are also all purl. Which is correct? (Does it matter?) Also, I am getting holes between squares, especially as the blanket is getting heavier. That doesn’t seem to happen with a heavier yarn. What am I doing wrong?
Hi Jeanne,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes you are correct! I misspoke and it is in fact only square 17 that is purled and and 18-32 are knit! As for the holes, it may be because of the way you are picking up the stitches, I would recommend checking out our Picking Up Stitches tutorial! If you are still ending up with holes you can send our team a photo of your blanket to [email protected] and we can trouble shoot further from there!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
So if I’m reading this correctly, only the first square in the second to 12th row in purl then the rest of the squares in each row are knit?
Hi Whitney,
Thanks for writing in! For squares 1-16 you will knit every row and then square 17 you will purl every row, you will then continue knitting every row for squares 18-32. Once you finish square 32 you will repeat rows 17-32 for 33-48.
I hope this clears things up, happy knitting!
Gianna
How do you pull two strands of the same color if knitting the small throw with only one skein of one color? Do you half the yarn some how? Im a bit confused on that part.
Hi Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! The best way to pull two strands is to Pull one from the outside and then pull the 2nd strand from the inside of the ball!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi, hope you’re all keeping safe. I was just wondering whether you had any rough timescales on when the large warm bundle for this lovely blanket might be back in stock? I should have bought it when I first saw it!
Hi Georgina,
Thanks for reaching out! We anticipate that we will have Linen Quill and Linen Quill bundles back in stock in the spring! The best way to stay notified would be to put in your email on the Mitered Corner Blanket Bundle page and we will email you as soon as it is available!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi! I just want to clarify the gauge swatch, do you knit the swatch with one strand of yarn, or two like in the blanket? Thanks in advance for the clarification 😁
Hi Niki,
Thanks for reaching out! To accurately check your gauge you will want to use the recommended needle and knit the swatch using two strands as you do in the blanket!
Warmly,
Gianna
I would love to purchase the Dawn or Mountain large throw bundle when one becomes available. Please let me know.
Hi Cinid,
Thanks for reaching out! If you go to the Mitered Corner Blanket Bundle product page you can select the color and size of the bundle you would like and enter your email directly below. We will then notify you as soon as it is back in stock!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi, I am working on square two and it keeps knitting up so that the wrong side of the new square face the same way as the right side of the first square. I cast on the new stitches and then picked up stitches with the right side facing me. Then I knit the first row of the new square with the wrong side facing me, picked up stitches first and then the new cast on stitches followed. I have tried a couple of times and cannot figure out why it isn’t coming out correctly. Help appreciated!
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for reaching out! If you would like, please send us a few photos to [email protected] and we can troubleshoot further from there!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thanks. I figured it out! It looks awesome so far.
This would be exquisite turned into a poncho!
Any hints on how to do this? I’m a beginner knitter but I love a challenge!
Hi Risa,
Thanks for reaching out! This would look lovely as a poncho! My best guess for the construction would be to break it up into two panels and then stitch them together leaving an opening for your head!
If you do make this please let us know how it turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
Allo,
I just began working on this beautiful blanket. I’m doing the sample ; each large throw square should be 4 x 4 inches. I had to reduce the size of the needle to adjust to the sample. Now I am at the size US 3 and my sample still to large. Is it normal that I have to reduce that much?
Thank you for your help.
Suzanne
Hi Suzanne,
Thanks for reaching out! Every knitter’s gauge is unique and depending on how tightly or loosely you knit, it’s common to have to adjust the needle size you’re working with to achieve the correct gauge called for in a pattern. That being said, it does seem like quite a jump to go from US6 to US3 to obtain gauge. If you haven’t already, I’d recommend knitting up a gauge swatch and washing and blocking it as you would the finished piece; all our pattern’s gauges are based on blocked dimensions (unless otherwise stated), so you’ll want to make sure you’re blocking your swatch to get your most accurate gauge count. It could be that you are getting gauge on a larger needle, but you’ll need to block the swatch to be sure.
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hi – could you confirm which of the videos in the picking up stitches tutorials give the right instructions to match these? (I just finished square one, moving to square two.) The vertical garter edge video, which is what I thought this square pick up would need, does not note picking up only one leg, just notes picking up the strand between the two bumps. Is this saying the same thing?
Hi Lqs,
Thanks for reaching out! You are on the right track! If you are watching the tutorial you will want to follow the vertical edge garter stitch option. Even though the lingo between the tutorial and the pattern is a bit different they are essentially doing the same thing!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Square 1…when I do a long-tail cast on and then knit the set up row, I am now on the wrong side instead of the right side for row 1. What am I doing wrong???
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for reaching out! When you use Long Tail Cast On, it will always orient you so that when you work the very first row you will be working over the “wrong side” of the fabric. So if you are finding that you are on the wrong side after working the setup row, it means you are most likely working the long tail cast on in reverse (we call this Long Tail Cast On, Purlwise) I would suggest checking out our standard Long Tail Cast On tutorial so ensure you have the correct orientation and that your set up row is worked over the wrong side.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi,
I was wondering what way you would recommend finishing off the ends on this blanket? I want to do some before I get too far ahead.
Hi Linda,
That’s a great question! While there is no one right way to weave in your ends, I do have a recommendation for this pattern specifically. Since you’re adding each square by picking up the stitches on the previous ones, this leaves a little ridge on the wrong side. I would try weaving in your ends around these ridges, so the ends don’t disrupt the actual knitted fabric all that much. I also wanted to let you know that we have a wonderful tutorial about all the different options for weaving in ends, and I’ll link that right here! Hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Lili
Can this pattern be adapted to a scarf
Having a quick look I am a bit brain fogged!
But like the idea of a scarf/shawl
Hi R,
You could absolutely adapt this pattern into more of a scarf/shawl shape! The entire pattern is comprised of small squares that are joined together to form the finished blanket, so you’ll just need to determine how many squares wide and long you’d like your finished piece to be and can adapt the pattern from there. If you need additional assistance, you can always reach out to us at [email protected] and we’d be glad to help!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Do you think this project would work with a single strand of linen quill? Or would it be too thin
Hi Chrissy,
Thanks for reaching out! A single strand of Linen Quill would be too thin and require quite a few adjustments. If you would like to use a single strand instead of holding the yarn doubled, I suggest using Linen Quill Worsted! Just be sure to work a gauge swatch prior to beginning to ensure you are still consistent with the pattern!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
My purl squares are larger than my knit squares so I am using a smaller needle for the purl squares. Is there a reason why the first square in each column needs to be a purl square? I’m thinking of just doing all knit squares…
Hi Maureen,
That’s a great question! It’s common for your tension to be different when working knit and purl stitches so it’s a good idea to use a smaller needle on the purl squares (like in square 17) as you currently are to mitigate the difference in gauge. I totally understand the appeal of doing everything in knit stitch instead, but if you knit every square you would get a row of stockinette in these squares, creating an indentation.
I hope this helps clear things up and let us know if you have any further questions!
All the best,
Zha Zha
Hi Maureen,
I wanted to add one more suggestion to Zha Zha’s response to your question! If you want to knit all the squares, you could make one small change to how you cast on for the purl squares, and then be able to knit them. So instead of following the directions as written, here’s what you could do:
With the right side facing you, orient Square 1 so that the cast-on edges are on the left-hand and bottom sides of the square. Pick up 16(21) stitches along the top edge of Square 1, picking up only 1 leg of each stitch. Use the backwards loop method to cast on 14(19) more stitches. Then, just follow the rest of the instructions for Square 1 to complete this square!
The only difference here is that you’re picking up the stitches before casting on the additional stitches, instead of the other way around. And you will also need to use a backwards loop cast-on, rather than a long tail cast-on, which makes the cast-on edge look slightly different (but it’s not very noticeable in my opinion!).
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I just wanted to see if this did work for anyone. I’ve now done square 17 three times with the decreases ending up in the wrong location compared to the other squares/intent of the pattern. Thinking this might be the only way to make this work for my brain.
Thanks!
Jane
Hi Jane,
When I wrote up those alternate instructions for Square 17, I had tested them out on a small swatch! It definitely worked for me, but I’m also curious to see if others find it useful. If you decide to give my instructions a try, please let me know how it goes!
All the best,
Lili
I much prefer the suggested method to cast on after pick up which allows for knitting rather than purling square 17. I find the slight difference in edge to be negligible and much less notable than the difference in my somewhat “wonky” purled square. I have also found it easier to knit squares on the diagonal sticking to one color at a time. I am enjoying this project!
Hi Alison,
I’m so happy to hear that my suggestion was useful for you! Glad you’re enjoying the project.
All the best,
Lili
Can this blanket be done in Linen Quill worsted instead of holding the fingering double stranded?
Hi Leslie,
Thanks for your question! You could certainly knit this blanket in Linen Quill Worsted rather than holding Linen Quill double. I think it’d be a great idea, though, to do a gauge swatch beforehand to make sure you’re consistent with the pattern. We have a guide on that called All About Gauge if you’re interested in more information! Linen Quill Worsted is a bit thicker than two strands of Linen Quill held double, which would be closer to a DK weight, so doing a swatch can help determine if you need to adjust your needle size before starting the project. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
Hello,
Because the cool color mitered blanket I want to do is out of stock, I was wondering if I could do this blanket in Season Alpaca? How many skeins of each please would I need for the large throw.
Thanks!
Hi Cynthia,
Thanks for reaching out. I first wanted to let you know that we’re hoping to have more Linen Quill in stock by mid- to late-January, so the Mitered Corner Blanket Bundle will come back in stock as well! But if the wait is too long for you, then you can definitely adapt the pattern for Season Alpaca.
To knit up this blanket in Season Alpaca, I’d recommend holding only one strand at a time, since that will come to about the same weight as the two strands of Linen Quill. To figure out how many skeins of each color you’ll need, just divide the yardage for each color (which you can find on the project page for the blanket) by 218, which is the yardage of 1 skein of Season Alpaca. Then, just round up to the nearest whole number, and that’s how many skeins you’ll need!
All the best,
Lili
Hi there! I’m about a third of the way through this gorgeous blanket. Is it just me, or does this gorgeous blanket deserve a knitted back to cover the seams in the back side.
Is this a crazy idea? Any pointers?
Hi JRS,
What a nice idea! I think a stockinette cover for the back would look really good and provide a textural contrast to the front side. Let me know if you end up trying out your idea; we’d love to see the results!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili! I’m actually considering purchasing a second bundle and making the same blanket again so it is double sided with the same squares on each side!
I’d like to connect the squares somehow as I go to the original.
Is THAT an insane idea?! I really love this project and am sad to see it come to an end!
That is such a fun idea, and a great way to extend a project that you love working on! I’m not exactly sure how to connect the squares between blankets as you go, but I’d recommend testing out some different options. And you could always seam the blankets together after you’re completely done with both.
Please let me know how it goes if you try this out. If you want to share photos of your finished blanket(s) with us, feel free to send them to [email protected]!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I hope everyone is well! I wanted to reach out as I figured out how to make this double sided and it is going to be GORGEOUS. I am basically doing two of the same blankets, but was able to figure out how to knit them all together.
I will send pics when I am done. This one is going to be a gift, but I still want to make a third one for myself. Hoping I can reach out to build my own color palette when the time comes.
Hello,
I am a knitter but I was wondering if you have the same or similar pattern in crochet?
Hi Nancy!
Thank you for your question! Unfortunately, we do not have a crochet version of this blanket, however I can suggest making an ombre granny square crochet blanket, or browsing our other crochet blankets here.
I hope this helps you find a similar crochet pattern!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi Hi,
Do you think this small throw could be modified to be a bit narrower and then longer to make a shawl? I worry about the seams people have noted on the back side and whether it would not look nice as a scarf as a result.
Thanks!
Jane
Hi Jane,
Thanks for writing in! I think that this pattern would make a stunning shawl! There will always be seams on the wrong side, but I think the overall beauty of the right side will overshadow those. If you’re worried though, you can always make a small swatch with some scrap yarn to test out how noticeable the seams will be. Just make a group of a few squares to get a sense for how it will look!
I hope this advice is useful!
All the best,
Lili
I have a square 17 question, Row 2 question. Working on the rs I’m purling until three before the marker, then put the yarn in the back to knit, slip the two stitches, knit the next stitch and psso, pass the yarn back to front to purl, pm, purl to end? The problem I’m having is when I psso, the knob formed by the psso looks entirely different than 1-16. I’m thinking so when I look at the pictures of 17. Thanks for your time.
Hi Jacque,
Thanks for reaching out, although I’m sorry to hear that Square 17 isn’t turning out as expected! Would you be able to send a photo of your work to [email protected]? That will help us better visualize what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for responding! I saw an earlier post which answered my question that the s2kp didn’t change on block 17. I still couldn’t get the look of the other squares with purling so came up with my own solution. On block 17, I started it just like block one. I connected block 18 to block 2 and block 17. I’ll go back when finished and seam 1 & 17 and all other successive first row blocks when done!
Hello,
I am in love with this pattern/blanket and how it is looking so far, I am starting square 51. Could you possibly tell me how many rows there are when you complete a square? I’m just trying to get my counting app set up
Karena
Hi Karena,
Thanks for writing in! For Square 51, you’ll be following the instructions for Square 18. That means that you’ll need to knit a total of 31 rows if you’re making the small size, or 41 rows if you’re making the large size! At that point, you’ll have decreased all the way down to the final stitch. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi there,
I don’t think this query has been made already.
When I start a new square, I am struggling to maintain the tension between the stitches cast on to the needle and the stitches picked up on previous square so I’m ending up with a really loose patch at that middle point for the first few rows of the square.
Any tips for for more consistency where I attach the new cast on stitches to previous square ? I hope this makes sense.
Thanks!
Hi Eleri,
I’m sorry to hear that you’ve been having trouble maintaining tension when you attach the squares! Would you be able to send a photo of your work so far to [email protected]? That way, we’ll be able to better visualize what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I’m so confused and feeling dumb. I do not get a square at all. From one side of the marker it remains 19, and from other side it goes down.
So i have 19k-pm on the needle-22k. Row1 – 16k- s2kp-remove marker from needle-k1-pm on the needle-k until end 22. Row2 – full row. Repeate. So decreasing goes on from one side of the marker. It won’t be a square.What am I doing wrong?
Hi Ana,
Thanks for writing in! We are so sorry this pattern has caused you some confusion. You should end up with a square once you work the set of rows down to 1 stitch. So to begin you have 22 stitches on one side of the marker and 19 on the other side. This is because you are only working with the 3 middle stitches to decrease each pass of row 1. You can think of it as 19 sts + 3 sts (decrease sts) and then another 19 on the other side. This will work the stitches into a square as you decrease in the middle three. I hope this helps better explain how this will eventually make a square but please let me know if you have any other questions. We are also always happy to set up a 1-on-1 zoom session to go over the pattern in more detail!
All the best,
Gavriella
I’ve recently begun working on my blanket after putting it aside for several years. I’m hoping to finish it soon and cross it off my list of unfinished projects. My goal is to complete two squares a night. Some nights I’m tired and don’t feel up to it but do it anyway. I’ve completed 166 squares of the twin size blanket. I keep it folded to a manageable size in my lap while working on it. This morning I laid it on the bed for the first time to see how it looked and realized I’ve used the wrong colors in 3 squares: #43, #133, and #134. I’m a perfectionist and it’s driving me crazy. I should know by now to double check my work before moving on, but in my rush to complete this project, and due to the size and bulk of it, I never unfolded it completely. I’m thinking of ripping out squares 166, 165, 150, 149, 133 &134. I know it will be tedious work to undo the interior squares. I’m not sure I’ll make the effort to correct square 43, (maybe just embroider “oops” on it). Before I begin, I’d appreciate your opinion/advice as to whether this is possible or advisable. I don’t want to realize halfway into ripping out that I’ve not fully considered all of the possibilities for disaster. To your knowledge, has anyone else encountered this situation and, if so, how did they handle it? I could not find any other posts with this question.
Thank you so much for considering this and for any suggestions you can offer.
Hi Jean,
Thank you for writing in! We are so sorry to hear that your project didn’t turn out exactly as planned but we want to congratulate you on getting so much work done! Although we have not heard from others writing in about this issue, one thing you could do instead of pulling out all of your work is to embroider flowers or some sort of embellishment on the few squares that got misplaced! This could be a simple design detail that could bring joy and seem intentional each time you use your blanket! Please let us know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Gavriella
Hello,
How do you hold yarn double from 1 skein? The kit comes with only one skein of colors G, H and I. Thanks
Hi Elizabeth,
Thank you for your question! One thing you could do is knit with a strand from both the inside and outside of your cake of yarn after you have wound it. Another option would be to wind your yarn into two equal-sized balls so that you can knit with a strand from each. I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I’ve made this blanket 4 times (2 original warm, 1 new blue, and 1 with leftover stash). It’s a fun project I want to make again and am hoping you’ll offer it with some of the new beautiful Linen Quill colors—or new and old.
Hi Cheryl,
So glad to hear that you’re a fan of this pattern, and we’d love to see you make it with some other Linen Quill colors! I’m happy to help recommend some colors for you to use if you’re interested–let me know!
All the best,
Lili
Yes please! I would love your advice. I’d like to go with lively colors like the newer versions in blue and pink…not a neutral palette. Other than that no idea where to start.
Great! I’ve created a palette that moves from dark purple to bright pink, back to purple, and then to blue, using a number of the new colors. Let me know what you think!
Color A: Dark Denim
Color B: Deep Petunia
Color C: Purple Clematis
Color D: Magnolia Blossom
Color E: Pink Pop
Color F: Peony Pink
Color G: Blue Pansy
Color H: Mountain Bluebird
Color I: Birds Egg Blue
All the best,
Lili
Lili thank you. Those colors look beautiful!
However 3 of them are out of stock (Deep Petunia, Purple Clematis and Pink Pop) and there’s a 25% sale on right now. Advice?
Hi Cheryl,
Thanks for reaching out! We’re hoping to have those colors back in stock by mid-June. We’re so sorry for the delay and are anxious to see it back too!
If that’s not too late for you, we’d recommend signing up to be notified when they return by going to the product page (https://www.purlsoho.com/linen-quill.html), selecting each color, and entering your email address. This way, you’ll be the first to know!
But we know how disappointing it can be to miss a sale due to a color being out of stock and would be happy to honor the latest offering on the website! If you send us an email at [email protected], we can help you out further from there.
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hello, I’m hoping to do this blanket in a machine washable yarn. Any recommendations on a colorway in Santolina? I like the mountain bundle color vibes. Maybe with more green (from what I see available in Santolina) Any issues using this yarn for this blanket?
Hi Anna,
Making this blanket in Santolina sounds like a wonderful idea! Did you need help putting together a full palette for your blanket? It sounds like you have some wonderful ideas picked out!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hello, would it be ok to use a nine note bundle (or two) to make this blanket? Thanks
Hi Genevieve,
That’s a great idea, and you could definitely do it! You would just need to hold only one strand at a time, instead of two, since the Nine-Note Bundle is a lot thicker than Linen Quill. As for the yardage, can you please let me know if you’re planning to make the Small or Large Throw size?
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili, I’d like to make a small throw – that’d be great if you’re able to tell me about the yardage. Thanks
Great, thanks for letting me know! The totally yardage for using a single strand of DK weight yarn comes to 2,199 yards, so you’ll need 3 Nine-Note Bundles to make the Small Throw size of this pattern.
All the best,
Lili
If using straight needles, which length would you recommend? Thanks!
Hi Jenny,
Standard 12-inch straight needles will work just fine, but you’re welcome to use longer or shorter needles if you prefer!
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
I love this pattern! Thank you Purl Soho!
I have a question about a good technique for weaving in end as you go with this pattern. Any suggestions?
Hi Monika,
We’re so happy you love this pattern! Since you begin the squares by picking up stitches, or casting on and then picking up stitches, you won’t be able to weave in the ends as you go immediately. However, you should be able to use the method we show in our Weaving In Ends As You Go tutorial on the next row!
All the best,
Lili