For the New Year, our gloriously artful Mitered Corner Blanket! A masterpiece in construction, color, and design, this next-level knitting project is as close as you can get to painting with yarn, nearly calling for a signature in the corner.
Its watercolor-y wonders run deep, with 192 squares that require absolutely no sewing. You just knit each square from corner to corner and pick up stitches along one or two sides of adjoining squares to continue with the next one, gradually gliding from one combo of colors to another.
All these beautiful in-between shades and gradations are possible by using our Linen Quill doubled. Get all the yarn you need with our Mitered Corner Blanket Bundle, available in two palettes: Warm and Cool. Both versions ripple through color with stunning beauty: a sometimes subtle, sometimes dramatic flow, from deep saturation to pale expanse, back to rich concentration, transformed.
Both palettes are available in Small and Large Throw sizes. Either way, the 192-square construction is the same, but for the Small Throw (pictured in Cool) each square is 3 x 3 inches, and for the Large Throw (pictured in Warm) each one is 4 x 4. In any size or color, this is the perfect get-involved winter project, a work of art to really immerse yourself in, as legit for hanging on the wall as it is for hanging on the couch!
Designed for Purl Soho by Jake Canton.
Materials
Our Mitered Corner Blanket Bundle comes in two sizes: Small Throw (top row, above) and Large Throw (bottom row). Choose also from a Warm (left) or Cool (right) palette.
The Small (Large) Bundle includes…
- 15 (19) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca and 15% linen
The colors included with each palette are…
- Warm Bundle
- Color A: 1 (2) skein(s) of Pale Oats
- Color B: 2 (2) skeins of Wheat Flour
- Color C: 2 (3) skeins of Lychee Pink
- Color D: 2 (3) skeins of Kiln Red
- Color E: 3 (4) skeins of Chestnut Red
- Color F: 2 (2) skeins of Rosewood Pink
- Color G: 1 (1) skein of Peony Pink
- Color H: 1 (1) skein of Honey Pink
- Color I: 1 (1) skein of Turmeric Yellow
- Cool Bundle
- Color A: 1 (2) skein(s) of Oatmeal Gray
- Color B: 2 (2) skeins of Heirloom White
- Color C: 2 (3) skeins of Vintage Celadon
- Color D: 2 (3) skeins of True Turquoise
- Color E: 3 (4) skeins of High Tide
- Color F: 2 (2) skeins of Mountain Bluebird
- Color G: 1 (1) skein of Gray Denim
- Color H: 1 (1) skein of Stillwater Blue
- Color I: 1 (1) skein of Kettle Black
NOTE: For the Small Throw, we only used a little bit of the third skein of Color E. If you leave the skein unwound, you can exchange it if you don’t end up needing it (click right here for Purl Soho’s return policy).
You will also need…
- US 6, circular or straight needles
- A stitch marker
Gauge
22 stitches and 44 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
Each Small Throw square should be 3 x 3 inches; each Large Throw square should be 4 x 4 inches.
Sizes
Small Throw (Large Throw)
- Finished Dimensions: 36 inches wide x 48 inches long (48 inches wide x 64 inches long)
Notes
You will double the yarn throughout the pattern, pulling two strands together.
S2kp (slip 2, knit 1, psso): Slip 2 stitches together knitwise wyib, knit 1, pass slipped stitches over knit stitch and off right needle. [2 stitches decreased]
Pattern
Begin With Square 1
With two strands of Color A, use a Long Tail Cast On to cast on 31 (41) stitches.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Knit 14 (19) stitches, pm, knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull the tail through the final stitch.
Square 2
With 1 strand of Color A and 1 strand of Color B, use a Long Tail Cast On to cast on 15 (20) stitches.
With the right side facing you, orient Square 1 so the cast-on edges are on the right-hand and bottom sides of the square. Pick up 16 (21) stitches along the top edge of Square 1, picking up only 1 leg of each edge stitch.
NOTE: For some tips on picking up, please visit our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Knit 14 (19) stitches, pm, knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull the tail through the final stitch.
Squares 3-16
Working to create a line of 16 squares, continue by casting on 15 (20) stitches and picking up 16 (21) stitches along the top edge of each previous square. Follow the instructions for Square 2 and use the Blanket Schematic above to determine which combinations of yarn to use for each square.
Square 17
With 1 strand of Color A and 1 strand of Color B, use a Long Tail Cast On, Purlwise to cast on 15 (20) stitches.
With the wrong side facing you, orient Square 1 so the cast-on edges are on the right-hand and bottom sides of the square and Square 2 is on the left-hand side. Pick up 16 (21) stitches purlwise along the top edge of Square 1, making sure to pick up only 1 leg of each edge stitch.
Set-Up Row (right side): Purl 15 (20) stitches, k1, p1, pm, purl to end of row.
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to marker, p1, k1, purl to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Purl to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, p1, pm, purl to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull the tail through the final stitch.
Square 18
With the right side of the fabric facing you, orient the completed squares so that Squares 1-16 are a horizontal row on the bottom and Square 17 is at the top left corner. With 2 strands of Color B, pick up 16 (21) stitches along the top edge of Square 2 and then pick up 15 (20) stitches along the right-hand edge of Square 17.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Knit 14 (19) stitches, pm, knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before stitch marker, s2kp, remove marker, k1, pm, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull the tail through the final stitch.
Squares 19-32
Follow the instructions for Square 18, referring to the Blanket Schematic to determine which combinations of yarn to use for each square.
Continue
Following the instructions for Squares 17-32, continue to knit each column of squares starting with Squares 33-48. Refer to the Blanket Schematic for the order of the squares and the combinations of yarn used for each square.
Finish
Weave in the ends and block as desired.
PRINT
This is gorgeous! I wonder about using this pattern for a baby blanket. Is the linen quill a good yarn for babies? What would you recommend as a replacement if not?
Hello Corey,
Thanks for reaching out! The alpaca content (35%) in Linen Quill provides softness and we found it to be a great choice for our Four Points blankets, not in any way harsh. If you are looking for something machine washable our Posy yarn would be a beautiful option for this blanket. You will not get the same color design, but you could certainly make a beautiful blanket with the bright, cheerful color options for Posy.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Can you please explain what pm means in the following and other places in this pattern?
“Set-Up Row (wrong side): Knit 14 (19) stitches, pm, knit to end of row.”
I am sure that most know what these things mean, but I am not experienced enough to know.
Thanks!
Michele
Hi Michele,
Thanks for reaching out! PM is the abbreviation for “place marker,” so at this point you will place a marker on the needle. You can see our full list of abbreviations here.
Best,
Julianna
Hello,
Is it possible to have the translation in french of this pattern?
Thanck you for your answer!
F Bezault
Hi Fabienne,
Thanks for writing in! At present, our patterns are only available in English. We certainly appreciate the request!
Best,
Julianna
Fabienne, j’en ferai la traduction prochainement -pas tout de suite – et pourrai vous l’envoyer par mel si vous me laissez la vôtre via cristaline38@gmail.com
I too absolutely love this blanket and wanted to use as a baby blanket.
Practically, for me, it would have to be machine washable.
The POSY yarn is a different gauge.
Would / should the yarn be double stranded as in the original pattern
and what needle size would be recommended?
Hi Marlene,
Thanks for reaching out! Although the gauge is slightly different, Posy does substitute quite well for Linen Quill! I would still use Posy held double but you may want to increase the needle size to a US 7. Rather than knitting a gauge swatch, I would suggest knitting the first square, both to determine if you are happy with Posy held double on your chosen needle size, as well as to measure the square to figure out how many total squares you will need to knit for a baby sized blanket.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Beautiful colors! Just want to verify something about the construction. There are 192 blocks and the method of joining them will require the yarn to be cut after each block so you will have 192 ends to weave in along the way. Yes? Is there anyway to carry the working yarn or change pick-up location to reduce the cuts and weaving?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately, since each square begins with a new set of cast on stitches and does not start at the point of the previous finished square, you will have to cut your yarn to begin again. Also, you will have tails from both the cast on and cast off, so there will be twice as many tails. Although it does seem a bit daunting, if you stop after every few squares or every row to weave in all of the ends, it won’t be too huge of a task by the time you are finished!
Best,
Julianna
I am weaving them in for each row of 16 squares; it’s a nice diversion!
I love this, but I don’t care for either of the color palettes. Can you tell me what yarn colors I should purchase to knit the blanket in a neutral (grays and/or browns) palette?
Hi Norma,
Great question! For a neutral bundle, I would choose the following colors of Linen Quill:
Color A: 1 (2) skein(s) of Oatmeal Gray
Color B: 2 (2) skeins of Pale Oats
Color C: 2 (3) skeins of Wheat Flour
Color D: 2 (3) skeins of Pale Mushroom
Color E: 3 (4) skeins of Twig Brown
Color F: 2 (2) skeins of Stonewall Gray
Color G: 1 (1) skein of Salt + Pepper
Color H: 1 (1) skein of Stillwater Blue
Color I: 1 (1) skein of Kettle Black
Happy knitting, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
I’m so confused! How are you making squares of the same size when the 15 long tail cast on stitches go beyond the length of the square you’re connecting it to? The second picture with all of the stitches is really throwing me.
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for reaching out! For squares 2 through 16, after casting on 15 stitches, you will then continue with the same yarn and needle and pick up 16 stitches along the side of the previously knitted square for a total of 31 stitches. The second picture shows the 31 stitches on the needle after both casting on and picking up.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thanks for answering my question! Still confused, though! What throws me is that it seems like those 16 stitches you cast on would make it that much wider than the width of the previous square. Although now looking at the picture for square 18, I think maybe I’m seeing it — because of the decrease down the diagonal, are you essentially knitting each square from two sides at the same time? From the bottom (i.e. along square 2 in the picture for 18) and the vertical edge (i.e. along square 17 in the picture for 18)? I don’t think I’m articulating this very well, but I think I’m seeing it!
Hi Michelle,
I apologize for the confusion! You are correct, mitered squares always start with a cast on that is equivalent to two sides of the square, and are then shaped into a square with decreases down the middle of the stitches. Every square in the blanket, including the very first one, starts with the exact same number of stitches – in this case, 31 for the smaller size – though in some cases half the stitches will be cast on and the other half picked up, and at other times, all 31 stitches will be picked up. It really is a fun technique and it’s quite fascinating to watch a straight piece of knitting turn into a square, so I encourage you to give it a try – I think if you knit a square or two it will all start to make sense!
Best,
Julianna
Thank you, Julianna! I get it now! And my yarn arrived about two hours ago so I’m going to get started tonight — can’t wait!
This is a beautiful pattern! I have 4-5 skeins of LQ Rose Granite in my stash—do you think this color would fit nicely into the warm hue blanket? Or is there a color scheme you could recommend for Rose Granite? Thanks so much!
Hi Shellie,
Great question! You could certainly build a palette around Rose Granite! I would lean everything a bit more towards pinks and purples and suggest the following colors:
Color A: 1 (2) skein(s) of Peony Pink
Color B: 2 (2) skeins of Heirloom White
Color C: 2 (3) skeins of Oatmeal Gray
Color D: 2 (3) skeins of Pale Mushroom
Color E: 3 (4) skeins of Rose Granite
Color F: 2 (2) skeins of Peach Stone
Color G: 1 (1) skein of Dark Iris
Color H: 1 (1) skein of Purple Smoke
Color I: 1 (1) skein of Lavender Opal
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
That is very helpful! I love the grays and twig brown neutrals. Would these work with rose granite in place of the purples?
Hi Shellie,
Absolutely! Since the various colors are always held two at a time, neutrals can always be swapped in for other colors without disrupting anything. Twig Brown, Salt + Pepper, and Stonewall Gray would all blend in beautifully!
Best,
Julianna
wow, this is so cool, i am going to try it with the surplus wool that i have
What skill level is this pattern? I’m just getting back into knitting have never done anything like this but want to move on from basic knit & purl.
Thanks
Hi Joyce,
Great question! I would rate this an easy pattern for an advanced or confident beginner – the only other skills you will need besides casting on, knitting, and purling is a decrease which is explained in the pattern, and picking up stitches, which we will guide you through with our tutorial. I hope you give it a try – this blanket is certainly within easy reach for a beginner but will teach you a few new skills!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Martha, I really like the Posy yarn “Black Cherry”. If I were to use this in place of the dark blue in a baby blanket what other colors would you recommend? I’d like a blended look but need something that works in this pattern. I’ve never done the miter pattern.
Thank you!
Teresa
Hi Teresa,
Great question! Since Posy does not come in as wide of a color range as Linen Quill you won’t be able to create as large of a gradient range, but since you will still be holding your yarn doubled to blend the colors, they will transition smoothly into each other. For a baby sized blanket, you also won’t need to use as many colors since even our small throw would be a bit long for a baby. If you reduce the blanket to 12 by 12 mitered squares, you will only need 7 colors, and I would suggest the following colors of Posy for a blanket based around Black Cherry:
Color A: Black Cherry
Color B: Weathervane Gray
Color C: Drizzle Gray
Color D: Lilac Mist
Color E: Winter Heath
Color F: Pink Peppermint
Color G: Pink Papaya
I hope that helps, and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
I was also thinking Posy since I like the idea of machine washable, could you also get away with doing the smaller Pocket skeins for a baby blanket? Thanks! Love the pixelated look of this, it’s so cool!
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! Since you still need quite a bit of yardage and Posy has less yardage than Linen Quill, the only color you can get away with using one skein of Pocket Posy would be Color G. I would suggest the following amounts of Posy for a 12 by 12 square baby blanket:
Color A: 3 Pocket Posy
Color B: 2 Posy
Color C: 2 Posy
Color D: 3 Posy
Color E: 3 Posy
Color F: 2 Posy
Color G: 1 Pocket Posy
Best,
Julianna
This is indeed a beautiful blanket! I’m thinking of knitting it in a worsted wt (so no double strands) which would use less yarn. Can you recommend a worsted wt substitute? Thanks.
Hi Lee,
Thanks for writing in! Doubled fingering yarn is more equivalent to a DK weight yarn than worsted, so I would recommend looking at DK to light worsted weight yarns. Good Wool could be a fantastic choice, since it comes in a lovely gradient already, but you could also consider Brooklyn Tweed Arbor or Woolfolk Far since both come in broad color ranges that have a lot of possibilities for building gradient color palettes.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I was going to ask the same question wrt to a heavy, singular weight – love that the FAR is an option. This is a gorgeous pattern, despite the pesky ends. Thank you for creating.
I would love to make this in a king sized throw! (Maybe 108″×100″?) Any idea how to appropriately adjust the yarn quantities and the pattern?
Hi Jaid,
What a magnificent bedspread this would be! It is a bit tricky to determine how many more of each color you should purchase, since it depends on how you choose to combine and re-use colors for the added rows and columns. For the large throw, each square measures 4 inches, so I think your blanket will need to be 25 columns by 27 rows. I would suggest printing out the schematic and drawing on the additional rows and columns and writing in the colors that will be used in each additional square, continuing each diagonal row across and deciding which colors to repeat in added squares that are not connected to a diagonal row in the schematic.
Each square in the larger size uses about 25 yards of each color, so you can count how many of your added squares use each color and multiply those numbers by 25 to determine how much extra yarn you will need.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Your print option for the pattern download is not working. Is there some particular reason for this?
Hi Jazz,
I’m sorry to hear you’re having trouble with the print function! We aren’t experiencing any problems on our end, but we have had some reports recently that some pop-up and ad blockers can interfere with the print interfacing popping up. I would suggest disabling any ad blockers you are running and trying again, and if you are still having difficulties, please email us at customerservice@purlsoho.com so we can try to troubleshoot this for you!
Best,
Julianna
another Linen Quill color question: I love Crocus Bud. Could it be worked into the Rose Granite palette you suggested above? If so, where? If not, how might you use it?
Hi Cheryl,
Thanks for reaching out – Crocus Bud is indeed a beautiful color! In the pinks and purples palette above, you could swap it out for either the Peach Stone or Lavendar Opal, depending on how much Crocus Bud you would like to incorporate, and still have a lovely gradient.
Best,
Julianna
Question about picking up edge stitches. I see in this pattern you are going through the very last bump on the edge stitch. In your tutorial for picking up stitches in garter stitch edge you go through the stitches “between” the two garter stitch ridges. Do I have this right? And why the difference?
Hi Judi,
Thanks for writing in! Although we did use the same technique of picking up from the “valley” between garter ridges in both the tutorial and the images in the blanket pattern, for the blanket, we picked up the stitches a half stitch closer to the edge of the square to minimize the bulk on the wrong side of the blanket. It does look a bit like the stitches were picked up from the garter ridge itself because of this difference, but we did pick them up from the stitches between the ridges by picking up only 1 leg of each edge stitch.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi, I am also having trouble working out how to pick up the edge stitches and have tried following the method described in the tutorial and also by picking up the purl bump closest to the edge. Neither seem correct.
And give a funny finish. Could you please explain further what you mean by picking only one leg, amd perhaps could you tdemonstrate how to do this with pictures? I would like to know I can get this right before purchasing, thanks, Julie
Hi Julie,
Although we unfortunately don’t have the resources at the moment to do a photo tutorial, I will try my best to explain this step! If you look at the stitches directly below each garter ridge, you will be able to see the individual V-shaped or teardrop-shaped stitches – you may have to stretch the garter ridges away from each other to see this clearly. When picking up each edge stitch, you will insert your needle directly into the middle of the V closest to the edge of the square, so that only one leg of the V, or stitch, is to the right of the needle. Since you are holding your yarn doubled, there will be two strands of yarn, but just one leg of the actual stitch. You can then wrap your yarn as if to knit and pull up the new stitch.
It may look a bit uneven, especially on the wrong side, but the first row of the next square should even things out quite a bit!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thanks for your repsonse Julianna, I appreciate your help. That does seem clearer and I will keep practising.
Hi,
I don’t like how garter stitching looks, would it be possible to make this in stockinette stitch by just purling the ws rows?
Hi Angie,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, due to the very different row gauge between garter stitch and stockinette stitch, the Mitered Corner pattern will not work in stockinette. Rather than squares, you would end up with diamonds. You may be able to counteract this by also working a decrease on the purl rows, though we haven’t tried it ourselves! If you are up for a challenge, you could try a square or two to see if the additional decreases result in the correct shape.
Best,
Julianna
I would like to increase the size of the large throw to 40″x60″, thereby adding 1 additional row to the width and 3 additional rows to the length. How many extra skeins of LQ, and how many of each color used, should I order?
Thanks for your help.
Hi Jean,
Thanks for reaching out! It is hard to say how many more of each color you should purchase, since it depends on how you choose to combine and re-use colors for the added rows and columns. However, the largest size is actually 48″ by 64″ already, which you may be happy with! If you do choose to add rows or columns, I would suggest printing out the schematic and drawing on the additional rows and columns and writing in the colors that will be used in each additional square, continuing each diagonal row across and deciding which colors to repeat in added squares that are not connected to a diagonal row in the schematic.
Each square in the larger size uses about 25 yards of each color, so you can count how many of your added squares use each color and multiply those numbers by 25 to determine how much extra yarn you will need.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
I cannot find a way to download the free pattern without buying the bundle. I have yarn and don’t need to buy any. Help!!
Hi Jayashree,
Thanks for writing in! You can either print or download a PDF of any of our patterns using our print function. If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I haver never knit this technique in the Mitered Corner Blanket before. I would like to try the technique before I buy the yarn. I would like to know how long the bundle will be on sale. Thank you for your time and support.
Sincerely,
Sheila
Hi Sheila,
Thanks for writing in! Our Mitered Corner Blanket Bundle will be on sale through Saturday, January 12th at 11:59pm EST.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I’m on my second baby blanket using this pattern. I’ve used Sirdar Crofter for both of them and it gives a beautiful result.
Would you consider doing a live video on how to this mitered throw so I can get it in my head how to do it
Thanks
Linda
Hi Linda,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources at the moment to do a video tutorial of this pattern, but we will certainly keep your request in mind. Thanks for the suggestion!
Best,
Julianna
Hi, experimenting to see if I can actually make this and having problems picking up stitches. If I pick up between the ridges I can’t find a ridge that will make it to the 16 th stitche. Do I somehow put my needle through the last stitch where the yarn was pulled through which made the point. If I do this where does the old tale end up ? On the front or back of the work? When I tried to go through that last stitch it looked sloppy. Also instead of picking up between the ridges does anyone ever pick up through the knots ? I’m trying to figure out to do this as neatly as possible should I attempt to make this pretty blanket.
Thanks for your help !
Hi Alice,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct, you will need to pick up the last stitch in the very corner of the square. At first the tail from the previous square won’t matter since it will still be at the outside edge of the work, but once you start picking up for the next row of squares, you can keep it tucked to the wrong side. Don’t worry if this spot looks a bit untidy, since you will be picking up another square in the same area, and you can always neaten things up when you weave in your ends. I have seen patterns that have you pick up from the ridges of garter stitch, so if you prefer the look of this method, please feel free to use it!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I understand that one could use a light worsted wool yarn (Good Wool or others?) to knit this blanket. Could you recommend specific colors and # of skeins to knit for large blanket in blues (could include neutrals/greys if needed) to ensure a nice gradation, using a light worsted weight yarn, since that is the beauty of this pattern? Will using light worsted wool have a similar structure to the Linen Quill yarn? I need to decide by tomorrow! Thanks very much.
Hi Margaret,
Thanks for reaching out! A light worsted or DK weight yarn will result in a blanket with the same dimensions and thickness and very similar surface texture, since the stitches will be the same size as if you were using Linen Quill doubled, but you will not have the same shaded smooth color transition since you will be using your yarn held single and not mixing colors as you move from one to the other. I would suggest using a yarn that has a good selection of blues and neutrals, such as Brooklyn Tweed Arbor, so you can replicate the gradient effect as much as possible.
To determine how much of each color you will need, you will need to plan where and how you will use each color you choose. I would suggest either printing our template or using graph paper to plan out your color placement, and then counting how many squares will be knitted out of each color. You will need approximately 15 yards for each square if you are knitting the smaller throw or 20 yards for the larger throw.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi, I love the look of this blanket and have ordered in the large size. I was wondering would there be enough Linen Quill left over from the throw to make something else? If yes, can you suggest something? Many thanks
Hi Chloe,
Thanks for reaching out! Although you won’t have any full skeins left over, you will have quite a bit of yarn left when you add it all up – about 1500 yards! I think it would be lovely to create matching mitered square pillow covers by scaling down the blanket pattern, or you could knit up a wrap or scarf inspired by the striping and color blending in our Nature’s Palette Blanket.
Happy knitting, and please let us know what you come up with!
Julianna
I love your patterns. However, could you make them more printer friendly – less pages. “Knitty” ( a pattern online publication ) is a good example of giving you a choice to print a copy with less photos. Or, somehow having the written instructions all together? so you could look online for the photos if need be.
That would be much appreciated.
Hi Uylond,
Thanks for reaching out! We agree, and our print function allows you to pick and choose which portions of the pattern or pictures to print or add to a PDF. If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi! What does picking up only one leg of the stitch mean? Just one strand? Also.. is there a formula or suggestion for how long the yarn should be (before casting on) to begin each square so that the remaining tail ( when square is finished) is as short as possible?
Thanks!
Hi Elvie,
Thanks for writing in! If you look at the stitches directly below each garter ridge, you will be able to see the individual V-shaped or teardrop-shaped stitches – you may have to stretch the garter ridges away from each other to see this clearly. When picking up each edge stitch, you will insert your needle directly into the middle of the V closest to the edge of the square, so that only one leg of the V, or stitch, is to the right of the needle. Since you are holding your yarn doubled, there will be two strands of yarn, but just one leg of the actual stitch. You can then wrap your yarn as if to knit and pull up the new stitch.
Although there are many methods to estimate how much yarn you need for a long tail cast on, since the cast on for each square is so short, I would just use a bit of trial and error! 15 inches or so would be a good starting point, and just take note of how much extra yarn you have and subtract that from the tail, making sure to leave a comfortable amount to weave in at the end.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I love the gradient colors of your Good Wool and had wondered about using it for this blanket, so I was glad to see you suggested it in response to a question here. How much of each color should I purchase, and how do I use the five colors to substitute for the nine colors in the pattern?
Hi Norma,
Thanks for reaching out! When you are using Good Wool, you will be using it held single and relying on the natural colors of the yarn to create the gradient effect for you. To determine how much of each color you will need, I would suggest either printing our template or using graph paper to plan out your color placement. Working across the grid of the blanket diagonally, you will want to go from the lightest shade of Good Wool to the darkest, and then move back through the scale to the lightest, and so on until you reach the end of the blanket. You can then count how many squares will be knitted out of each color. You will need approximately 15 yards for each square if you are knitting the smaller throw or 20 yards for the larger throw.
Happy knitting, and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Good morning! Lovely pattern by the designer! Colors are just beautiful. Two questions: I thought I’d added the large Warm bundle to my shopping bag this morning, and when I went to check out it was gone. Is it out of stock? Also, I appear to have missed the sale by a few hours. Will it be on sale again soon? Better yet, can you still offer the sale price since we’re so close to the sale window?
Hi Gwendolyn,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for reaching out! I’m very sorry that the bundle you were looking for was out of stock, but we have been working hard to build new kits and it is now back. Unfortunately our sale has ended and I can’t really say if we will be having another sale on this yarn or bundle any time soon, but if you subscribe to our mailing list you will be the first to know of any other upcoming promotions.
Best,
Julianna
Hi there! I’m on square 4. It seems as though the “pick up 16 stitches” should be “pick up and knit 16.” Otherwise, the Yarn is not correctly positioned to knit on the wrong side. Can you confirm, please? Thanks.
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out! The phrases “pick up stitches” and “pick up and knit” stitches are often used interchangeably to refer to the same technique, which you can see demonstrated in our Picking Up Stitches tutorial. Generally speaking, if a pattern does not specify how to pick up stitches, I would assume it means to pick up using the working yarn, since this is the much more common way to pick up stitches and usually results in a tidier edge.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi,
I love your pattern
I tried to do a few squares but they are diamond in fact
I tried to use smaller needles : same problem
Can you imagine a solution for me
Thanks for your help
Rebecca
Hi Rebecca,
Hmm, that is an odd problem! Is it possible that you are working the squares in stockinette stitch instead of garter? If the square is knitted in stockinette stitch, it will turn out diamond shaped, so you do have to knit every row. The only other possibility is that you are not working the decrease correctly. The sk2p should decrease two stitches at a time.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi, I’ve just read your instruction and would love to knit this BUT you are using skeins in England we have balls of yarn or wool of 50gr/100gr. Also is it our DK type or 4ply which is slightly thinner, what do your skeins weigh? I love both colour ways so the choice is hard, kind regards Sibylle.
Hi Sibylle,
Thanks for writing in! Our Linen Quill comes in a 100 gram skein that has 439 yards and is most similar to a 3 ply yarn. However, if you can check the yardage on your yarn I would strongly recommend doing so, since different yarns can have different amounts of yardage per pound. Ordering your yarn by yardage is usually much more accurate than ordering by weight.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Still trying to figure out how to do this. I am confused as to why starting at square 17 you start to pick up on the other side and purl since garter stitch is the same on both sides. And then you keep purling ? Do you do this for the rest of the blanket ? I think I’m missing something.
Thanks for your help.
Hi Alice,
Thanks for reaching out! Starting with square 17, in order to continue working from in rows and to keep the mitered squares oriented in the correct direction, you will be working purled squares. You have it figured out!
Best,
Julianna
For clarification, the pattern indicates that square 17 is worked purlwise, but the remaining squares in the row are worked knitwise. So, the first square in each row after row 1 is worked in the purl stitch, but the remaining squares go back to knit, until beginning another row. Is this correct (is the pattern correct), or all squares after that first row — the rest of the blanket — worked purlwise?
Thanks,
Margaret
Hi Margaret,
I apologize for the confusion – you are correct, the first square of each row starting with the second row will be purled, and all the rest of the squares will be knitted. Thank you for catching that!
Best,
Julianna
I understand what pm means but am I placing the marker on the 19th or the 20th stitch?
Thanks Daphne
Hello Daphne,
Thank you for reaching out! You are placing your marker between your 19th and 20th stitch.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Finished my practise square and it went fine. But when this left handed knitter (hold the yarn in my left hand) casts on as directed with cast on edge and bottom edge in my right hand I of square one the yarn is in wrong place. Do you use “long tail” to knit set up row and then begin pattern. Thank you
Hi Karol,
Thanks for reaching out! After using the long tail cast on for the 15 or 20 stitches, you will then pick up the stitches (following the method in our Picking Up Stitches tutorial) using the end of yarn that is attached to the ball, leaving the other tail to weave in later. Your yarn should then be in the correct spot to knit the first row of the square.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi,
I have a hard time to read the diagram to find what colors I should be knitting. Probably a obvious question, but how ca I get the diagram bigger with the color letters clear?
Hi Maria,
Great question! If you right click on the diagram image, you should have an option to “Open image in a new tab.” You can then zoom in on the image and print a copy if you would like.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I will be making the larger size blanket and have never used a circular needle before. In the directions it states size US6 but what length should I purchase? In general how do I figure out what length circular needle to use? Thank you
Hi Amelia,
Great question! For this particular pattern, since you will not be working in the round and will only have at most 20 stitches on your needle at a time, you could use any length of circular needles, or even straight needles if you prefer! Most people find a 16″ needle uncomfortable to work on for longer periods of time because the tips are quite short, and a 32″ needle will have a good amount of cable that you won’t need that might get in the way, so I would suggest a 24″ needle.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
i just finished square one. the last right side row resulted in 3 sts on the needle: 2 stitches then the marker and then 1 stitch after the marker. I then knit the WS row and my final right side row was to slip the 2 sts before the marker, remove the marker, knit the last st and then pass the 2 slipped sts over the knit st. Is this right?
Hi Joann,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you’ve got it! Immediately after working that last s2kp, you can cut your yarn and draw it through the last stitch – no need to work another knit row on the final stitch.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’m 4 squares in and realized I’m not sure if I’m supposed to end on row 2 or row 1 when I reach one stitch left. So basically, I have 3 stitches left, I do the s2kp and then have 1 stitch, do I cut yarn and pull through then, or knit that last stitch on wrong side and then cut?
Thank you so much!
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! Immediately after working the s2kp, you will cut your yarn and draw it through the last stitch – no need to work another knit row!
Happy knitting!
Julianna