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Delicate Cable Scarf
Our Delicate Cable Scarf pares down the intricacy and beauty of Aran knitting to its bare essentials: one spare cable floating across a sea of garter stitch.
Ideal for beginners and old pros alike, this lovely knit requires you to simply follow a single cable as it travels from selvedge to selvedge, enjoying nice garter-stitch breathers in between.
Our cozy Flax Down, a single ply blend of baby alpaca, extra fine merino and linen, creates crisp cables and a soft halo of warmth. We love that, in Heirloom White, our Delicate Cable Scarf is especially Aran Islands!
Stunningly simple and wonderfully comfy, the Delicate Cable Scarf is January knitting at its best!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Jake Canton. Click here to see even more of Jake’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Want to print this pattern? On desktop, find the “print” icon in the right margin, and on mobile, scroll to the end of the pattern for it. Use the on-screen instructions to remove anything you don’t want to print!
Materials
- 5 skeins of Purl Soho’s Flax Down, 43% baby alpaca, 42% extra fine merino, and 15% linen. Each skein is 219 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1002 yards required. We used Heirloom White.
- US 6 (4 mm) circular or straight needles
- A cable stitch holder
- Stitch markers
- 2 removable stitch markers (or little pieces of scrap yarn)
Gauge
24 stitches and 44 rows= 4 inches in garter stitch
Size
Finished Dimensions: Approximately 13 inches wide x 66 inches long
Notes
Slip Stitches
Slip all slipped stitches purlwise.
Cables
Left Cross (LC): Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold in front of work, k1, then k3 from cable needle.
Right Cross (RC): Slip 1 stitch onto cable needle and hold in back of work, k3, then k1 from cable needle.
Cable 6 Front (C6F): Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold in front of work, k3, then k3 from cable needle.
For our photo tutorial, please visit our Cable Tutorial.
Stitch Multiple
You can cast on any even multiple of stitches but will need to adjust the number of stitches between cables. To determine the number to knit in the Center Cross section (Next Row [wrong side]: Slip 1 wyif, k35, slip 6 wyif, knit to end of row), subtract 6 from the cast on number, divide by 2, then subtract one. For example, if you cast on 68 stitches, you would knit 30 instead of 35 stitches because 68-6 = 62/2 = 31-1 = 30. Later on in the Cable To Selvage section, knit one less than you did in the Center Cross section. Confused? Tell us in the Comments section below how many you’re thinking of casting on, and we’ll be happy to help you sort it out!
Pattern
Begin
Using a Long Tail Cast On, cast on 78 stitches.
Row 1 (wrong side): Slip 3 (see Notes) with yarn in front (wyif), knit to last 3 stitches, slip 3 wyif.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 3 inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 1.
Cable To Center
Row 1 (right side): LC (see Notes), knit to last 4 stitches, RC (see Notes).
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, place marker (pm), slip 3 wyif, knit to last 4 stitches, pm, slip 3 wyif, k1.
Row 3 (right side): Slip 1 wyif, LC removing marker, replace marker, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, RC slipping marker, knit to end of row.
NOTE: When working RC, k3, slip marker, then knit stitch from cable stitch holder.
Row 4: Slip 1 wyif, knit to next marker, slip marker (sm), slip 3 wyif, knit to next marker, sm, slip 3 wyif, knit to end of row.
Row 5: Slip 1 wyif, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, LC removing marker, replace marker, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, RC slipping marker, knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until two cables are next to each other in center of fabric, ending with Row 5 and removing stitch markers on final row.
Center Cross
Next Row (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, k35, slip 6 wyif, knit to end of row.
Next Row (right side): Slip 1 wyif, k35, C6F (see Notes), knit to end of row.
Next Row: Slip 1 wyif, k35, slip 6 wyif, knit to end of row.
Cable To Selvage
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 wyif, k34, RC, LC, knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, k34, pm, slip 3 wyif, k2, pm, slip 3 wyif, knit to end of row.
Row 3: Slip 1 wyif, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, RC slipping marker, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, LC removing marker, replace marker, knit to end of row.
Row 4: Slip 1 wyif, knit to next marker, sm, slip 3 wyif, knit to next marker, sm, slip 3 wyif, knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4, ending with Row 3 when one stitch remains after second stitch marker.
Next Row (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, remove marker, slip 3 wyif, knit to next marker, remove marker, slip 3 wyif, k1.
Next Row (right side): RC, knit to last 4 stitches, LC. Place a removable stitch marker or piece of scrap yarn at either end of this row.
Continue Even
Row 1 (wrong side): Slip 3 wyif, knit to last 3 stitches, slip 3 wyif.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 3 inches from removable stitch marker, ending with Row 1. Remove removable stitch markers.
Repeat + Finish
Repeat from Cable To Center section through Continue Even section three more times.
With right side facing you, bind off knitwise.
Weave in ends and block as desired!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 45 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 1000’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I’d like this larger, as a shawl size. Any suggestions to how to adjust the pattern?
Thanks Debby
Hello Debby,
Thank you for reaching out! This is a lovely idea, the first thing you will need to do is decide on how wide you would like your scarf to be. For example, if you double the size of your scarf it will be 26″ wide and, because you can cast on for this pattern with any even number, you will cast on 156 stitches.
For the cable section you will follow the pattern as written, and it will just take you more rows to reach the center.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I love this pattern. Is it at all possible to modify it to make it wider for more of a “wrap/shawl”?
Hello Kat,
Thank you for reaching out- this is a great question! It is pretty simple to modify this pattern. You can cast on any even number of stitches, so once you decide your desired width you can use your gauge to figure out your cast on number. For the cable section you will follow the pattern as written- it will just take more rows for the cables to meet in the center.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m really going to enjoy making this! Simple garter stitch (my favorite) with enough ‘challenge’ to keep me excited. Thanks! (and Happy New Year!)
Can this pattern be made less wide? I think this scarf is gorgeous and would be fun to knit, but it is too much fabric for me. I am a petite and do not have a long neck. Could it be reduced to a 6-inch wide scarf? If so, how? Thanks, in advance, for your reply.
Hello Lynn,
This is a great question! This will be pretty simple, because the gauge for this scarf is 6 stitches per inch you will cast on 36 stitches to get a 6″ wide scarf. Once you get to the cables you can follow the pattern as written- your cables will just meet in the center after less rows.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I also have a short neck and would like to make the scarf less wide. Can you tell me how much yarn I would need if I make a 6″ wide scarf. Thanks for your help!
Hi Chris,
Thanks for reaching out! If you want to make the scarf the same length as ours, I would suggest purchasing three skeins of Flax Down, but not winding the third skein in case you don’t need it. Any unused yarn in its original condition can be returned for store credit – you can see our full return policy here!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
My sister, Phyllis Bradley, loves your yarn and patterns. Unfortunately, she has moved to Florida and has very little need for yarn at the moment. She is a lot sidetracked with her grandsons. I guess “smitten” might be a better choice of words. I miss her greatly; my knitting muse is no longer here in Denver as well. This pattern is absolutely beautiful, so I guess it’s time to break out the needles. I also love your circular needle sets. I have 3 full sets. Thank you so much for sharing this pattern. I think maybe I’ll even be able to muddle my way through it. It’s way too pretty to start and not finish.
Hello Cheryl,
Thank you for writing and your kind words! Let us know if you have any questions along the way!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Love this design. I am not a fan of garter but I now realise certain yarns create the perfect stitch definition but I am a fan of cables so this is on my ‘Knit List’?
I want to make this a bit shorter… Will overall pattern be dramatically effected?
Hello Maryann,
Thank you for reaching out! I don’t think this would be an issue, the only thing that will change is where you end the last cable.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
This looks so soft and warm! What about using one of the 100% baby alpaca yarns? What would you suggest?
Hello Janice,
Thank you for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t currently have a yarn that is 100% alpaca that would be the correct gauge, but our Flax Down is an incredibly soft and 43% Alpaca.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thanks for your quick reply!?
Hi
If I would like the scarf a bit narrower is there a multiple I can use to work it with fewer stitches? Thanks
Hello Jane,
Thank you for reaching out! This pattern can be written over any even number of stitches.
Happy knitting,
Marilla
This is so beautiful! Your creativity and generosity are always appreciated. Quick question: I have a few stashed skeins of Good Wool in “Heirlooms White”. What do you think of this scarf in the Good Wool? I recognize that it would be less lofty but tb
Hello Meg,
Thank you for reaching out! Our Good Wool will work beautifully for this pattern as it has a very similar gauge to Flax Down. Plus Good Wool looks beautiful when used for cables.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I cannot where Alpaca or wool due to itching my skin.. Can you recommend other yarns for the same result?
Thank You!
Hello Sue,
Thank you for reaching out! I would reccomend checking out our Cashmere Merino Bloom. It is 75% Merino and 25% Cashmere. I’m not sure where you fall on the spectrum of wool sensitivity, but Merino Wool is often a great option for sensitive skin. Another option is to go 100% Cashmere with Jade Sapphire’s 6ply.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m having trouble with too much slack yarn on the beginning of the cable across rows. I’ve tinked it several times and retried but still have the problem. It’s the point where you sl1 wyif, pm, sl 3 wyif, knit across.
any suggestions?
Hi Vicki,
Thanks for reaching out! I strongly suspect these loose stitches will resolve themselves either with blocking or once you have knitted a few more rows. It is very common to have stitches that appear loose or untidy on either side of a cable, but they usually tighten up and look fine once the piece is blocked. It could also help to give your yarn an extra tug when you start knitting after slipping these stitches, similar to how you would pull the back of i-cord closed.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I love this pattern but I’m not clear about the edges. Do I pull the yarn a bit like I cord?
Thank-you.
Hi Lori,
Great question! Yes, by slipping the first three and last three stitches of every other row, you will create a i-cord along both edges of the scarf, and it will help to give the yarn a bit of an extra tug when you knit these stitches!
Best,
Julianna
Hi, I’m loving this design however being a beginner I’m struggling on the the first set of instructions as I don’t know how the “slip 3 wyif” looks like. I slipped them off my needle then knitted the rest and then just slipped the last three into my needle with my yarn in front. But as I turn to my second row the yarn is three stitches in already. And to knit the first three stitches on row two looks weird. Is there a video demo? Please please
Hi Rukhsana,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t have a video for this step, but it sounds like you are doing it absolutely right! Since your yarn is three stitches in from the edge, when you start knitting the next row, those three stitches will pull to the back of the work, creating a tiny tube or i-cord. I think you’ve got it!
Best,
Julianna
Hi I am an experienced knitter and question the same as above. For the first 3 inches the end of the row – slip 3 means with 4 stitches left, slip 3, as you need a stitch to knit for the cable. Should it read, purl the the last 3 stitches? That would then lead into the main pattern when the cable starts to move into the scarf.
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for reaching out! The pattern is correct as written, for the beginning of the pattern you will start off by working on the wrong side of the fabric, and by slipping 3 stitches with the yarn in front, you will then knit to the last 3 stitches (not 4 stitches) you will again slip those 3 stitches with the yarn in front. Then on the right side of the fabric, you will knit every stitch! When you pull the working yarn from the slipped stitches it will pull the 3 stitches tight creating the tiny tube that you can see in the photos! Also, keep in mind that this scarf is knit in garter stitch so there will be no purl stitches.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Hi there! I love this pattern and have 4 skeins of your understory waiting to be knit up. Do you think that I could use them to knit this scarf?
Thanks!
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for writing in! Understory would be an excellent yarn to substitute in this pattern! Not only does it knit up at the same gauge as Flax Down, since it has more yardage per skein, you should have plenty of yarn with your four skeins.
Happy knitting, and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Thank you so much for getting back to me Julianna 🙂
I have one question on the RC, there is a note after row 3 in the beginning about working RC, k3 , slip marker, then knit stitch from cable. Is this used throughout the pattern or only in this instance because of the shortage of stitches. Thanks
Hello Eileen,
Thank you for reaching out! This note is there to tell you when you should slip your marker for RC so it will happen throughout.
Warmly,
Marilla
I love this scarf. I intend to make the narrow version. I am not a beginner but I just can’t seem to get past Row 4! Row 5 states slip 1 wyif, knit to 3 stitches before the next marker. But my marker is immediately after the wyif. I have worked these rows over and over and I can’t figure out my problem. The marker at the opposite end of my needle is 5 stitches in. Shouldn’t the markers be in the same spot on each end?
I really, really hope you can help me. Thanks, Eileen O’Neill
Hi Eileen,
Thanks for reaching out! So that the markers do not interfere with working the cables, they will not be placed evenly from each edge of the scarf. After working Row 2, in which you place the markers while working a wrong side row, when you are looking at the right side, the first marker should be four stitches from the right edge, and the second marker should be one stitch from the left edge. Although Row 5 may still feel a bit odd, if you have the markers placed correctly, after working the Slip 1 wyif, you will immediately be three stitches away from your first marker and ready to work the LC. In subsequent repeats you will have more stitches to knit before working the LC.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi,
This is a really lovely, simply designed scarf and I can’t wait to start it, but before doing so, I have a problem. I would like to make this scarf for a male friend and I know the edges will be getting rough handling and therefore be stretched. I would like to continue the aran patterning up the garter stitch edges so that they are firmer, but I’m not sure how to do that. Could you give me some pointers on how I might accomplish that. Thanks for much for this free pattern. This yarn looks yummy and soft.
Leigh
Hi Leigh,
Thanks for reaching out! Since the slip stitches on the edge travel across the scarf to become the cabled stitches, you won’t be able to continue them without a jog or funny spot where they start travelling. I would suggest adding 4 stitches to each edge of the scarf, or 8 stitches total, and working those as “slip 3 wyif, k1” at the beginning edge and “k1, slip 3 wyif” at the end on wrong side rows, and knitting them on right side rows, working the rest of the scarf as written in between. You will end up with two columns of slip stitches at the areas where the cables are on the edge, but the edging will continue uninterrupted in between.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hallo, eine Frage zu diesem wunderschönem Schal!
Die Ränder werden nicht schön, da man die Masche von Anfang an ( Slip 3 with yarn in front!) wird es zu locker. Kann mir jemanden sagen wie die Ränder verarbeitet werden?
Vielen Dank und Geüsse
Catherine
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for reaching out! Once the cables have traveled away from the edges of the scarf, you will still slip one stitch at the beginning and end of the right side rows to keep the edges neat. It’s not as visible as slipping three stitches, but it still creates a firm, tidy edge.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Love this web site! Your patterns are fashionable and easy to follow.
Hello,
Can you please clarify the transition from the beginning of pattern to the cable to center portion of the pattern? I’m sure it’s obvious to seasoned knitters but I’m still more of a beginner. The way I’m reading it says to end with Row 2 once you’ve knit 3 inches (which would be ending on the right side) but then to begin the Cable to Center on the right side immediately after. My assumption is I should just do another Row 1 and then start the Cable to Center so I’m on the right side? Please clarify, and thank you so much! I love your patterns!
Hi Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct, you should end the first section with a Row 1, or wrong side row, so that the cable to center section begins with a right side row.
Best,
Julianna
I have read all of your comments and I’m still stuck with rows 4 and 5. Your clarification was not sufficient and the placement of markers is also confusing. I have pulled out my work about 5 times. I wonder if there is a video or a clearer explanation. I’m a prett advanced knitter, but I’m sadly lost and very frustrated. Thank you
Hi Peggy,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m so sorry to hear that you are having trouble with this step! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources at the moment to do a video tutorial of this, but we will keep your request in mind for the future. Is there a particular step in these rows that I can try to make clearer for you?
Best,
Julianna
Hi, Peggy. I was having the same problem, but I figured it out after reading all the comments. If you are willing to try one more time, try this; my error was in Row 5 with the RC stitch. Here’s my version: RC: Sl 1 onto cable needle & hold in back of work, K3, SM, then K1 from the cable needle. (I was placing the marker in the wrong spot! It’s in a note, but somehow I was overlooking it.). And, thanks Julianna for all your help. Now my scarf is progressing beautifully.
Hi Delores, I’m knitting the Delicate Cable Scarf by Purl Soho. In reading your comments, I’m having trouble with rows 4 & 5 in the cable to center section, it just doesn’t look right.
I think I’m not getting the RC. I put 1 st. on the cable needle & hold in back, knit 3 sts. & replace the st. marker. Do you put the marker after knitting 3 sts. & before knitting the sts, from the cable needle? I’m fairly expierenced, but I’ve started this scarf 4 times – I’m ready to give up.
I appreciate any suggestions you can offer.
Linda
Hi Peggy: Not sure if this was your issue, but my problem started on row 4. I slipped the first stitch, then knit to the next marker which is at the end of the row (since there are only two markers), All you should is do on the first row 4 is: Slip 1 wyif, slip marker, slip 3 wyif, THEN knit to the next marker (which is at the end of row), sm, slip 3 wyif, knit to end (two sts). After that, you can do 4 and 5 as written.
This pattern is beautiful and wonderful, but the initial 4 and 5 rows are not exactly knitted as written. I want to add that I went to the Purl Soho store yesterday and was helped through this by Grace – definitely could not have done it without her.
Hi! I love this and recently started to knit it. I’m a little confused about slipping the first three stitches with the yarn in front, because after that the yarn goings to the back to knit the rows, creating a line of yarn in the front, just wanted to make sure this is correct, thank you!
Hi Kiki,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct! If you pull the yarn a bit snugly when bringing it to the back to knit, it should cause these three stitches to curl around and create a rolled or i-cord edge and the strands of yarn in the front should not be obvious. This step is also worked on the wrong side of the scarf, even though it is the first row.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am confused by this instruction:
Row 3 (right side): Slip 1 wyif, LC removing marker, replace marker, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, RC slipping marker, knit to end of row.
Where does the second marker go?
Or, when I start Row 4 – how many stitches in is that marker?
Hi Jani,
Thanks for reaching out! Immediately below this line in the pattern is a note explaining how to place the second marker in this row. When working the RC, k3, slip marker, then knit stitch from cable stitch holder. This should move the second marker one stitch to the right each time you repeat Row 3.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi, I am having trouble understanding the pattern. 🙂 I’m working on the cable to center section. The way I’m reading it, I slip my markers in row 4, but then in row 5, I’m knitting to markers…that aren’t there because I slipped them in row 4. Are the markers supposed to be replaced after they are slipped? Appreciate any help!
Hi Hannah,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, your markers should stay in the work – when you see instructions to slip a marker, that just means to move it to the other needle so it stays in between the same stitches as before. If you are to remove a marker, the pattern will usually say specifically to remove it.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I have made the scarf thinner, 46 cast on instead of the 78.
I’m at the “center cross” wrong side section.
I know I now slip 1 wyif, but how many stitches do I knit before I slip the 6 wyif, knit to end of row.
Thank you,
Kimberly
Hello Kimberly,
Thank you for reaching out! You should be able to follow the pattern as is, because you are going from either edge towards the center.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you for this pattern. It is so lovely. Now that I have finished my scarf, I would really like to make a baby blanket with the delicate cables. Do you have any suggestions as to how I could make that work?
Hi Nicole,
What a lovely idea! This pattern will work with any number of stitches, so you could certainly cast on as many stitches as you would like for a wider blanket and work the pattern as written to create two delicate cables running across the blanket. The length will be a bit trickier to figure out since the cables will take longer to cross in the middle when they have to travel across more stitches, but I would suggest casting off the blanket after the cables move back to the outside edges. Please do let us know how it turns out if you give it a try!
Best,
Julianna
If i want to use lace size yarn, how do i modified the pattern?
Hi Lily,
Thanks for writing in! To knit this scarf in lace weight, I would suggest knitting a gauge swatch in your chosen yarn and then multiplying your stitches per inch by 13 and rounding to the nearest even number to determine how many stitches to cast on. You can then follow the pattern as written!
Best,
Julianna
Can your beautiful scarf be knit in Woolfolk Far?
Hello Diane,
Thank you for reaching out! This is a great Idea and will work beautifully.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
On the cable to center part it states ” LC removing marker, replace marker, knit four stitches before next marker. Am i replacing the marker after I knit all the stictches for the LC? There are an uneven amount of stitches on each side of edges which is confusing me. Will it be crooked?
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, you will place the marker back on the needle after the full LC has been worked. This will move the marker over by two stitches so that the cable will continue to travel closer to the center of the scarf on each right side row. It is normal for there to be an unequal number of stitches outside of the markers on each edge of the scarf, but you should have the same amount of garter stitch outside of each stockinette stitch cable.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
If I want the scarf to be an inch longer (67″ rather than 66″) can I make both the “Begin” and “Continue Even” sections each 3 1/2″ rather than the 3′ as called for but leave everything else the same?
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that would be a perfect way to add a bit of length without affecting the pattern otherwise!
Best,
Julianna
Thanks for your response Julianna! One more question- I’m using a 100% natural alpaca yarn for this. I’m having trouble keeping the I-cord edge neat. When I have the wrong side facing me, the edge on the right looks looser and less even. Though not as noticeable when I flip it to the right side, I feel it could be better. Any tips (I’m giving the yarn a good tug when I make the I- cord and in general I have always had good, even tension)?
Hi Nancy,
I suspect this has something to do with the fact that the two i-cord edges are worked differently, and on the right edge, the yarn has to travel a bit farther than usual to get to the back of the work to knit. In addition to giving the yarn a little tug, I would try keeping some extra tension on the yarn while knitting that first stitch after the i-cord to lock in the tension. If it still looks a little loose, I am sure blocking will help even things out!
Best,
Julianna
I’d like to thank you for making this lovely pattern available. I would, however, like to respectably point out that it is definitely not for beginners. It is much too complicated and requires too much skill and instinct, especially when the directions get complex. I worry that a beginner may get discouraged quite quickly. Happy knitting to all!
Hi Laura,
Thanks for your feedback! We don’t rate the difficulty of our patterns, as we want people to feel free to try things that are “too hard” for them and to encourage people to discover that learning new techniques enriches the process of making. We do try to describe the skills involved with a pattern so that customers know what they’re getting into, but ultimately, we hope that even beginners will take little leaps into the unknown and find that the satisfaction was worth the challenge! While this scarf probably wouldn’t be a good choice for a first project, I do think ambitious beginners with a few basics under their belt could find this a great next step!
Warmly,
Julianna
Hello. Thank you for sharing this pattern. I started knitting it and I am at the second diamond-y bit. However, the scarf tends to curl vertically. Is this normal? Does it go away after blocking? I use a different yarn, with only wool. I try to make the cable as loose as I can so they do not pull the knit. But I am not really sure of the cause of the curl. Thank you. Elena
Hi Elena,
Thanks for reaching out! Hmm, I think something might be going awry – except for the cables, this scarf should be in garter stitch, which does not roll or curl at all, no matter what type of yarn you use. I would double check that, except for the cable stitches, you are knitting on both sides of your work so that the body of the scarf is in garter stitch.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
hi Julianna – I would love to knit this scarf in a hand-dyed, with a solid color on the cable. Would you be able to provide instructions for that? Thank you!
Hi Vikki,
Thanks for reaching out! Your idea sounds absolutely lovely, but unfortunately we don’t have a tutorial for working intarsia cables or substituting them in another pattern. You may be able to adapt our Intarsia in Garter Stitch tutorial to work with cables!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi, in row 3 of the Cable to Selvage, is the RC continuing to k3, slip marker, then knit stitch from cable stitch holder? I am working it currently placing the marker after the RC and it doesn’t seem to be moving over as nicely as the LC.
Hi Em,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, for the rest of the scarf, you will work the RC by knitting 3, slipping the marker, and then knitting the stitch from the cable needle. It’s not uncommon for cables to look a bit wonky immediately after they have been knitted, but they should look much more even after blocking!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi there! Thanks for the wonderful pattern!
I’m almost at the end of the cable to selvage section – I have 4 sts at the beginning of the cable row before the first marker. On the upcoming rows when there are less than 4 sts before the first marker, do I just do the RC over the marker? I assume it will be similar for the LC over the second marker.
Looking forward to your reply as I put my knitting on pause! ?
Thanks!
Hello R,
Thanks for reaching out! You are exactly right, you will adjust your marker as needed as you get closer the the selvedge.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’ve just started knitting the scarf and no matter how I tug the first and last three stitches the edging is flat and looks nothing like the cord pictured. I’ve started over several times paying particular attention to those stitches but no matter what I do it just doesn’t seem right. Any tips?
Hi Jo,
Thanks for reaching out! It’s hard to say what might be going wrong without seeing your work, but it could just be that you need to knit a bit farther. An i-cord edging like this doesn’t become apparent until you have knit at least an inch or two, so if you haven’t gotten that far yet, I would recommend carrying on knitting to see if it improves. If that still doesn’t help, you can always send us a picture of your work at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to see if we can troubleshoot this for you!
Best,
Julianna
Beautiful pattern. I’m about half way and the edge with the cord/slip3 on either edge after the cable meets selvage seems to be warping the knit inwards? Is there anything I can do to stop this happening?
Hi Tess,
Thanks for writing in! Although the edges should square up a bit with blocking, this effect is part of the nature of this pattern. If you take a look at our pictures, you will see that the edges of our scarf also pull in where the cables meet or leave the edges. I’m sorry that I don’t have a solution for you, but I hope you are happy with your scarf anyway!
Best,
Julianna
Am just starting Center Cross on this beautiful pattern. Pattern states “Repeat rows 4 &5 until 2 cables are next to each other in center of fabric”. I have one stitch in between the two cables coming together. Is this as it should be?? Thank you so much!
Hi Bonnie,
Thanks for reaching out! There should always be an even number of stitches between the cables, so it sounds like you might have cast on the wrong number of stitches or possibly missed a cable on one side. I would recommend first counting your stitches to see if you have 78. If you are off by one in either direction, I would recommend going back one row so that you have 3 stitches between the cables, and then either decreasing or increasing one stitch in the middle of the scarf to get back on track. I would probably recommend solving the issue in the same method if you missed a cable – I would hate to have you go back to catch an error since you have gotten so far! If you choose to do this to correct a missed cable, you would have to compensate again in the next section to make sure your cables reach the edges of the work on the same row.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Am at last row in cable to center section. Have repeated rows 4 & 5.and my question to you is should the two cables actually meet in middle butted up against each other or should there be any stitches in between. Thank you so much
Hi Bonnie
Thanks for writing in! The two cables should meet exactly in the middle with no stitches in between. Next Row (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, k35, slip 6 wyif, knit to end of row. Here you will prep the 6 stitches in the middle, and Next Row (right side): Slip 1 wyif, k35, C6F (see Notes), knit to end of row. You will be cabling the two over each other. I hope this helps and happy knitting!
Jessica
Have just completed my second round of cable to center sections
[first round worked perfectly). Have found that having one stitch remaining after row 3 on that last section of cable to selvage (which is what I should have) when I turn my work over to right side I have 6
Stitches before my first cable at start of this row. I believe I should only have 4 seeing that on this right sided row I start with RC
Hope I’ve been able to explain this so my question can be understood
Easily. What have I done wrong? Thank you so much
Hi Bonnie,
Thanks for reaching out! If your left side cable is going to get to the selvage on this next row, it sounds like you might have missed a cable somewhere in the right-side cable during the previous section. You should be able to get on track by working one extra cable row in the right hand cable only while working the “Continue Even” instructions on the left side. Once both cables are at the selvages, you can continue as written!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
What a beautiful scarf
I love this pattern, simple but elegant.
The beginning says to knit row 1 (wrong side) & row 2 (right side) until you have 3 inches – you end on a right side.
The next section – Cable to Center- starts on the right side. How do you end one section with a right side row & start the next section on a right side row?
Thanks for your help. Linda
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out and thanks for bringing this to our attention! It looks like there is an error in the pattern and you should in fact end the first section with Row 1 (wrong side row) so that the cable to center section begins with a right side row!
All the best,
Gianna
Stitch marking will be important and you refer to the stitch markers in the pattern but the pattern doesn’t indicate where the stitch markers go – please help, I’m anxious to make this!
Hi Iris,
Thanks for reaching out! In the 2nd row of the cable section we tell you exactly where to place markers (PM)!
All the best,
Gianna
I cast on 36 stitches to begin this project as I wanted a much narrower scarf. (As suggested in response to Lynn Harvey, 1/8/2019) I’m doing fine and approaching the Center Cross section where instructions read “Slip 1 wyif, k35, slip 6 wyif, knit to end of the row.” Clearly I won’t have enough stitches to complete this. I see I’ll have a similar problem over the next five or so rows. Can you help me translate these instructions to work with fewer (36) total stitches in this and subsequent sections?
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! Essentially splitting in half and you will be working over half the stitches minus the 6 you are slipping for the center. So in the case of 36 stitches you will slip 1 wyif and then knit 14 slip 6 wyif, knit to the end of the row and so forth!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thanks so much! I probably should have been able to figure this out myself, but I’m relatively new at this. Love the way this is progressing. 💕
Read about every questions and answers and I’m about to scrap the idea of knitting that model…. Why you don’t just print pictures of stepps if you can’t put a film????
I’m old knitter and used to give lessons also….
Thank you
I’m very frustrated….
Thank you Elaine BAIE-COMEAU QUEBEC
Hi Elaine,
Thanks for writing in! I am sorry to hear that you are frustrated but I am happy to help with whatever problems you may be experiencing! Is there a specific section of the pattern you are having difficulty with?
Looking forward to your response!
Gianna
Start up from cable To center….
Tanks
Elaine
Hi Elaine,
Thanks for your response! Basically, for row 1 of the Cable to Center section, you will begin on the right side of the fabric with an LC (see Notes), knit to last 4 stitches, RC (see Notes.) You can find the instructions for both of these techniques in the NOTES section of the pattern. For the LC you will slip 3 stitches onto a cable needle and hold them in the front of your work, you will then k1, then you will knit the 3 from the cable needle. You will then knit the rest of the row till you get to the last 4 stitches. For the RC you will slip 1 stitch onto your cable needle and hold it this time in the back of your work, you will then knit 3, then kit the 1 stitch from the cable needle.
You will then move on to row 2 working on the wrong side of the fabric, you will begin by slipping 1 wyif (with yarn in front), then you will place a stitch marker (pm), slip 3 wyif, knit to last 4 stitches, pm, slip 3 wyif, k1
I hope this clears things up and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
I’m an experienced knitter and I’m having trouble starting this pattern. I’ve ripped it out several times. Would you please clarify the following:
I don’t understand how to get the yarn to the back so I can knit the 4th stitch on Row 1.
Do I pull the yarn in front of the work and put it over the stitches to get it in the back to Knit? Or to I pull the yarn across the back and Knit that way? I can’t figure out how to get my yarn in the back so that I end up with that I-cord edging.
(As others have asked, a video would really help with this.)
Thank you.
Hi Jane,
Thanks for reaching out! Basically by slipping the stitches and pulling the yarn taut across you create a small tube (this creates that edge on the border!) It isn’t actually an i-cord border, so that may be adding to the confusion.
To begin, you will work row 1 on the wrong side of the fabric. You will simply slip the first 3 stitches, with the yarn in front, pulling it taut over the slipped stitches. You will then move the yarn from the front to the back by bringing it between your needles and then you can begin knitting like normal! You will need to work for several rows consistently in order for the edging to appear.
We currently don’t have the resources to film a tutorial for this step, but thank you for expressing your interest I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
I hope this clarifies things, happy knitting!
Gianna
On the wrong side, the first stitch is loose. Is there anything I can do to tighten it so it looks like the last stitch on the wrong side?
Hi Jane,
Thanks for your response! The best way to keep all the stitches even is to be extra careful not to overstretch the stitches when you are slipping them, especially the first one! Making sure your tension is even throughout the row will also help. If you are still finding that the end stitches are loose you can adjust this further when you block the finished scarf!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I love love love the single swooping cable. Any thoughts on how I could adapt this to a sweater? I’d love to get one swooping S down the front of the body. Let me know!
Hi Kevin,
Adapting this design into a sweater is a wonderful idea! There are definitely many good ways to incorporate it, but this is what I’m thinking: The scarf is designed to be knit flat, so I would start with a sweater that’s also knit flat, in panels. You could do the cable pattern down the front, or the back too, and perhaps even on the sleeves! I might also begin the cable pattern more towards the center of the panel, instead of on the edges, because that would make seaming the sweater together easier and would maintain the dimensions of the cables on the scarf better.
There are so many possibilities, but I hope this gives you some inspiration!
All the best,
Lili
Hiya!
I’d love to try this pattern – but with a little splash of colour! How would you incorporate another colour into the cable? ie) 1st colour background, 2nd as the cable.
Many thanks!
Carolyn
Hi Carolyn,
I think that’s a wonderful idea to add color into this pattern! Unfortunately we don’t have a tutorial for working intarsia cables or substituting them in another pattern, but you may be able to adapt our Intarsia in Garter Stitch tutorial to work with cables!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Lili
Hi..I have begun this 5 times and I read the comments. I’m still confused. The directions say in the row two, knit to the end, so does this mean no cable needle? I saw in a different comment the reply seemed to say to follow the first row. Thank you.
Hi Debra,
Thanks for reaching out. On Row 2, all you need to do is knit to the end of the row! The “Begin” section doesn’t actually include any cabling at all–you will start using your cable needle in the “Cable To Center” section. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili, this is such a beautiful pattern, I consider myself an able knitter, but I have tried this 5 times and the markers are not clear…Such a shame, I love your projects, Is there anyway of making this pattern clearer…??
So many people here in the comments are struggling.
Many thanks
Sarah
Hi Sarah,
I am so sorry to hear that you’re being struggling to figure out this pattern! Can you let me know which instructions, in particular, you find to be unclear? We will absolutely take a closer look and see if there’s anything we can do to update the pattern to be easier to understand. I’ll keep an eye out for your reply!
All the best,
Lili
I casted on 68 stitches and when I finish the “cable to salvage” section I have more stitches and I can’t reach the end to continue with the “continue even ” section. What did I do wrong?
Hi Nikol,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help but need a bit more information! Do you mean you are coming out with more than 68 stitches when you have finished or with the 68 stitches you can’t make it to the end?
Looking forward to hearing from you!
Gianna
I have 68 stitches but on the second to last row in the “cable to salvage” section,
after I slip 3 wyif I should have 1 stitch to knit according to the pattern but I have 3. I tried multiple times and every time I have the same amount of stitches until I reach the end of the row.
Hi Nikol,
I’m so sorry, but I think I realized what’s been throwing your stitches off! The pattern mentions that you can adjust the width so long as you make sure you’re casting on an even number, but unfortunately the instructions don’t account for certain areas when you’re called to work a specific number of stitches. For example, the first time this will be a problem is in the CENTER CROSS. If you’re casting on 78 stitches as suggested, the first row calls for you to “Slip 1 wyif, k35, slip 6 wyif, knit to end of row” but if you have 68 like you do, you’ll instead need to “Slip 1 wyif, k30, slip 6 wyif, knit to end of row.” You’ll knit 30 instead of 35 in this section. You’ll have to make this modification to make sure your cables are actually centered.
In turn, when you get to the CABLE TO SELVAGE section you should knit 29 instead of 34. If you knit 34 instead with 68 stitches instead of 78, then your marker placement will cause an extra stitch to be on one side.
Again, we’re so sorry for the confusion and are currently looking into how best to clear that up in the pattern going forward. I’ll be sure to follow up on what winds up happening!
All the best,
Zha Zha
Thank you so much for taking the time to reply.
I really want to make this pattern. Although I did the modification in order to center the cables, when it was time to reach the salvage I ended with more stitches to knit till the end.
I will stick to 78 stitches for now.
Have a nice day!
This is lovely! Thank you for the pattern. Would it be possible to make this with only one of the cables, so that it would have an asymmetrical sort of serpentine quality with the one cable snaking back and forth across the scarf? Wondering if that would ruin the overall structure or shape of the scarf? Any advice on how to modify the pattern to do that? I may knit a swatch and see if I can figure it out. Thanks!
Hi Anya,
Thanks for writing in. I think that’s a wonderful idea, and it’s definitely possible! What I would do is knit the pattern as written, except only follow the instructions for one of the cables, replacing everything else with plain garter stitch. I think making a swatch to test out this idea is a very good plan–that’s always what I do when modifying patterns!
All the best,
Lili
Hi!
I’m in Israel at the moment and there isn’t a huge selection of yarns here so im working with one with a gauge of just 15 stitches per 4 inches. So I calculated a cast on of 48 stitches. Can you help me understand which parts of the pattern I need to change? I didn’t quite understand the calculations in the instructions! Many thanks!
Hi Claire,
Thanks for reaching out. I can absolutely help you understand what the calculations mean for the rest of the pattern! Because your cast-on number is 48, your calculations are: 48 – 6 = 42 / 2 = 21 – 1 = 20. In the Center Cross section, you’ll need to replace k35 with k20, and in the Cable to Selvage section, you’ll need to replace k34 with k19. Other than that, you can work the pattern as written! I hope this helps.
All the best,
Lili
I have started this 3 times. The marker for RC on the ‘cable to center’ section doesn’t move and therefore that side of the cable doesn’t form. Please advise.
Thank you
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out. I can see how the wording of the instructions can be confusing, but the marker will move for the RC as well! What you’ll need to do is slip the marker in the middle of working the RC–so slip it onto the righthand needle right after slipping the 3 stitches, but before knitting the stitch on the cable needle. This way, the marker will move forward by one stitch on each right side row, which moves the cable towards the center. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I’m on the second round of rows 4 and 5 at the start of cabling. My LC has 6 stitches on the outside of the cable but my RC only has 4. Is this correct? It seems that the RC stitch marker moves over each round slower than the LC. Am I missing something?
Hi Samantha,
Thanks for writing in! Each cable should move closer to the center at the same rate, so it sounds like there is something going on in your work. It may be that you’ve just missed working a few RC’s! I hope this helps you move forward in this project, but if you’re still having trouble, please send a photo of the cables to [email protected] so we can take a closer look!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I just finished knitting the delicate cable scarf. It’s beautiful but curls at the selvage. What would be the best way to block it? Thank so much!
Hi Patty,
Thanks for reaching out. I’d recommend wet blocking the scarf and laying it flat to dry!
All the best,
Lili
Hello hello great artists!
I simply love all your patterns and I am specially looking forward to start this one!!
but I would like to work with only 50 stitches.
Please help me with the calculations for both the center cross and also for the cable to selvage .
many many many thanks
Andrea
Hi Andrea!
Thank you for commenting! To adjust this scarf for a 50 stitch cast on, the number to knit in the Center Cross section will be 21 (since 50 minus 6 is 44, and 44 divided by 2 minus one is 21) and the number of stitches for the cable to selvedge is 20. This row will read: Next Row [wrong side]: Slip 1 wyif, k21, slip 6 wyif, knit to end of row.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
WOW! It sure does 👍
Many many thanks….. here I go on a scarf adventure!
Hi – I love this pattern (Purl Soho is my goto for everything knitting!) – thank you for keeping website uptodate I miss you as my LYS in NYC!
I would like to make this as a throw(a large one) ….cast on 336 stitches!!! Can you help me with the calculations?
Many thanks!
Hi Sherri,
Thanks for reaching out about this! For a cast-on of 336 stitches, the number of stitches to knit in the Center Cross section would be 164. Then, in the Cable To Selvedge section, you would knit 163 stitches. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I really like this model. I started making the scarf but the design comes much bigger so in 66 inches I only get a drawing beyond the beginning and the end. Instead, the scarf in the picture has 3 patterns beyond the beginning and the end. Where am I wrong? I’m using needles 3,5
Hi Sonia,
Thanks for reaching out, although I’m sorry to hear that your scarf isn’t coming out as expected! It sounds like this issue might be related to your gauge. I’d recommend knitting a gauge swatch to make sure that you’re getting the same number of stitches and rows as indicated in the pattern: 24 stitches and 44 rows= 4 inches in garter stitch. You may need to size up or down your needles in order to get the correct gauge! If you would like to learn more about this, we have a handy tutorial called All About Gauge.
If you’re still running into problems with your project, I’d recommend reaching out to [email protected] and sending us a photo of your work so far! We’ll be able to give more specific advice once we can visualize what’s going on.
All the best,
Lili
I love this scarf, but it’s way too big for me. How would you calculate this to be about 7 inches wide and about 54 inches long?
Thanks for any information you can provide.
Hi Sharon,
Thanks for reaching out! Because the gauge of this pattern is 24 stitches in 4 inches, then you would need to cast on 42 stitches to achieve a width of 7 inches. The next modification you’ll need to make is to the number of stitches between cables. For a cast-on of 42 stitches, you would need to knit the Next Row (wrong side) in the CENTER CROSS section like this instead:
Next Row (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, k17, slip 6 wyif, knit to end of row
Later on in the CABLE TO SELVAGE section, knit one less than you did in the CENTER CROSS section! (So you would k16 in this section.) Other than that, you can basically follow the pattern as written, but only repeat the CABLE TO CENTER section to the CONTINUE EVEN section 2 more times, instead of 3 more times. This will result in a scarf that’s about 50 inches long, so to add the additional 4 inches, I’d recommend working the BEGIN section for 5 inches, rather than 3, and then continuing only the final repeat of the CONTINUE EVEN section for an additional 2 inches, until the scarf reaches 54 inches.
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I love this pattern and offered to make it for my sister who also loves it. 13 inches is wide for a scarf that is going around your neck twice. Can you tell me how wide it would be with your suggestion of casting on 68 sts? Thank you.
Hi Milann,
Thanks for reaching out! Based on the gauge of the pattern (24 stitches and 44 rows= 4 inches in garter stitch) a cast-on of 68 stitches will make a scarf that’s 11.3 inches wide. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks. Problem! I’m on Cable to Center – Row 3. I slipped 1 wyif, did the LC which is slip 3 onto cable needle in front, knit 1, then knit three from cable needle (marker is removed) then replaced marker so there are 5 sts the the right of the marker. Is that correct. Now for the other end of the same row. You knit to 4 sts before the marker. The note below that says when working the RC, K3 but the RC directions on the first page has different directions for RC. I’m confused. Please tell me how to finish row 3. Thank you
Hi Milann,
What you’ve described in your comment is correct! The note written below this row just includes instructions for when to slip the stitch marker. The rest is exactly the same!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I want to knit the Flax jumper from Tin Can Knits as part of a gift set with this scarf! The pattern includes a garter panel on the raglan sleeves. If the garter panel is 15 stitches wide, how would you suggest I adapt the delicate cables? TIA! 🙂
Hi Akira,
Thanks for reaching out, and that’s such a great idea! It can definitely work, but you’ll need to adjust the number of stitches in the garter panel, since this stitch pattern works over an even multiple of stitches. I’d recommend increasing each one to 16 stitches. Then, you can use the formula in the STITCH MULTIPLE section of the NOTES to determine the further modifications to the CENTER CROSS section!
First, subtract 6 from the stitch count, so 16 – 6 = 10. Then, divide this by 2, so 10 / 2 = 5. Now, you can plug the number 5 into the rows in the CENTER CROSS section, instead of the original 35 stitches! Then later on in the CABLE TO SELVAGE section, you would k4 instead of k34.
Hope this helps, and please let us know how it goes if you try this out! I think it will be beautiful.
All the best,
Lili
bonsoir,
je suis nouvelle sur ce site et débutante en tricot.
je trouve votre modèle superbe et que j’aimerais le réussir pour ma fille.
pouvez-vous me traduire vos abréviations wyif, point,kc, kd etc ..
merci beaucoup
Hi Christine,
Thanks for reaching out! We have a wonderful guide to all the abbreviations and terms we use in our patterns, which you can find right here. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi – I just finished the cables to center part of the pattern. I have one stitch separating the two cables. Is this correct?
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for reaching out. Unfortunately, there shouldn’t be a stitch between the two cables at this point–they should be right next to each other! What probably happened is that you missed cabling one of the cables on one row somewhere along the way. You could either undo your work and fix that, or there is a way to continue from where you are!
If you choose to continue, then the first thing to do is count your stitches and figure out the exact halfway point (since you should have an even number in total). Then, determine which side the extra stitch in the center falls on. With that in mind, work one more cable row, only cabling on the side with the extra stitch. Once you’ve done this, your cables will be right next to each other, in the correct position, and ready to move onto the CENTER CROSS section!
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Lili
I don’t understand the first row … How to start? After slipping the 3 stitches then what do i do? Do i not knit them for the first row? Then start knitting at row 2?
Hi Es!
Thank you for writing in! On row 1, you will begin by slipping the first 3 sts and then you will knit each stitch until you have 3 unworked sts on your left needle. You will then slip the last 3 stitches with your working yarn in front of your work.
I hope this helps but please let us know if you need anything further and we would be happy to help you out!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hello 🙂 would like to check if this pattern is possible with a super bulky yarn 🙂 thank you 🙂
Hi Grace,
Thank you for your question! To modify this pattern you will want to start with a gauge swatch. You will then measure your stitches per inch and multiply that number by the desired width of your project and that will give you your cast on number. You can cast on any even multiple of stitches but will need to adjust the number of stitches between cables.
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi- I’m looking for a comparable yarn – and have several in my stash – what is the wpi for the yarn in the pattern?
Hi Alexis,
Thank you for writing in! Flax down had a recommended gauge of 5 – 5.5 stitches per inch which means any of our Light worsted/ DK weight yarns would work perfect for this project! I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi,
I would like to make this scarf around 8 – 9” wide. My gauge is 5 stitches per inch. Could you please figure out the pattern for me to make sure I am correct. Thank you in advance.
Hi Jone,
For a scarf of 9″, you will want to cast on 46 stitches with your current gauge!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella