Our Delicate Cable Scarf pares down the intricacy and beauty of Aran knitting to its bare essentials: one spare cable floating across a sea of garter stitch.
Ideal for beginners and old pros alike, this lovely knit requires you to simply follow a single cable as it travels from selvedge to selvedge, enjoying nice garter-stitch breathers in between.
Our cozy Flax Down, a single ply blend of baby alpaca, extra fine merino and linen, creates crisp cables and a soft halo of warmth. We love that, in Heirloom White, our Delicate Cable Scarf is especially Aran Islands!
Stunningly simple and wonderfully comfy, the Delicate Cable Scarf is January knitting at its best!
Designed for Purl Soho by Jake Canton.
Materials
- 5 skeins of Purl Soho’s Flax Down, 43% baby alpaca, 42% extra fine merino, and 15% linen. We used Heirloom White.
- US 6 circular or straight needles
- A cable stitch holder
- 2 stitch markers
- 2 removable stitch markers (or little pieces of scrap yarn)
Gauge
24 stitches and 44 rows= 4 inches in garter stitch
Size
Finished Dimensions: Approximately 13 inches wide x 66 inches long
Notes
Slip Stitches
Slip all slipped stitches purlwise.
Cables
Left Cross (LC): Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold in front of work, k1, then k3 from cable needle.
Right Cross (RC): Slip 1 stitch onto cable needle and hold in back of work, k3, then k1 from cable needle.
Cable 6 Front (C6F): Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold in front of work, k3, then k3 from cable needle.
For our photo tutorial, please visit our Cable Tutorial.
Stitch Multiple
This pattern is worked over any even multiple of stitches.
Pattern
Begin
Using a Long Tail Cast On, cast on 78 stitches.
Row 1 (wrong side): Slip 3 (see Notes) with yarn in front (wyif), knit to last 3 stitches, slip 3 wyif.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 3 inches from cast-on edge.

Cable To Center
Row 1 (right side): LC (see Notes), knit to last 4 stitches, RC (see Notes).
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, place marker (pm), slip 3 wyif, knit to last 4 stitches, pm, slip 3 wyif, k1.
Row 3 (right side): Slip 1 wyif, LC removing marker, replace marker, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, RC slipping marker, knit to end of row.
NOTE: When working RC, k3, slip marker, then knit stitch from cable stitch holder.
Row 4: Slip 1 wyif, knit to next marker, slip marker (sm), slip 3 wyif, knit to next marker, sm, slip 3 wyif, knit to end of row.
Row 5: Slip 1 wyif, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, LC removing marker, replace marker, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, RC slipping marker, knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until two cables are next to each other in center of fabric, ending with Row 5 and removing stitch markers on final row.
Center Cross
Next Row (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, k35, slip 6 wyif, knit to end of row.
Next Row (right side): Slip 1 wyif, k35, C6F (see Notes), knit to end of row.
Next Row: Slip 1 wyif, k35, slip 6 wyif, knit to end of row.
Cable To Selvage
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 wyif, k34, RC, LC, knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, k34, pm, slip 3 wyif, k2, pm, slip 3 wyif, knit to end of row.
Row 3: Slip 1 wyif, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, RC slipping marker, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, LC removing marker, replace marker, knit to end of row.
Row 4: Slip 1 wyif, knit to next marker, sm, slip 3 wyif, knit to next marker, sm, slip 3 wyif, knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4, ending with Row 3 when one stitch remains after second stitch marker.
Next Row (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, remove marker, slip 3 wyif, knit to next marker, remove marker, slip 3 wyif, k1.
Next Row (right side): RC, knit to last 4 stitches, LC. Place a removable stitch marker or piece of scrap yarn at either end of this row.
Continue Even
Row 1 (wrong side): Slip 3 wyif, knit to last 3 stitches, slip 3 wyif.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 3 inches from removable stitch marker, ending with Row 1. Remove removable stitch markers.
Repeat + Finish
Repeat from Cable To Center section through Continue Even section three more times.
With right side facing you, bind off knitwise.
Weave in ends and block as desired!
PRINT
I’d like this larger, as a shawl size. Any suggestions to how to adjust the pattern?
Thanks Debby
Hello Debby,
Thank you for reaching out! This is a lovely idea, the first thing you will need to do is decide on how wide you would like your scarf to be. For example, if you double the size of your scarf it will be 26″ wide and, because you can cast on for this pattern with any even number, you will cast on 156 stitches.
For the cable section you will follow the pattern as written, and it will just take you more rows to reach the center.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I love this pattern. Is it at all possible to modify it to make it wider for more of a “wrap/shawl”?
Hello Kat,
Thank you for reaching out- this is a great question! It is pretty simple to modify this pattern. You can cast on any even number of stitches, so once you decide your desired width you can use your gauge to figure out your cast on number. For the cable section you will follow the pattern as written- it will just take more rows for the cables to meet in the center.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m really going to enjoy making this! Simple garter stitch (my favorite) with enough ‘challenge’ to keep me excited. Thanks! (and Happy New Year!)
Can this pattern be made less wide? I think this scarf is gorgeous and would be fun to knit, but it is too much fabric for me. I am a petite and do not have a long neck. Could it be reduced to a 6-inch wide scarf? If so, how? Thanks, in advance, for your reply.
Hello Lynn,
This is a great question! This will be pretty simple, because the gauge for this scarf is 6 stitches per inch you will cast on 36 stitches to get a 6″ wide scarf. Once you get to the cables you can follow the pattern as written- your cables will just meet in the center after less rows.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I also have a short neck and would like to make the scarf less wide. Can you tell me how much yarn I would need if I make a 6″ wide scarf. Thanks for your help!
Hi Chris,
Thanks for reaching out! If you want to make the scarf the same length as ours, I would suggest purchasing three skeins of Flax Down, but not winding the third skein in case you don’t need it. Any unused yarn in its original condition can be returned for store credit – you can see our full return policy here!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
My sister, Phyllis Bradley, loves your yarn and patterns. Unfortunately, she has moved to Florida and has very little need for yarn at the moment. She is a lot sidetracked with her grandsons. I guess “smitten” might be a better choice of words. I miss her greatly; my knitting muse is no longer here in Denver as well. This pattern is absolutely beautiful, so I guess it’s time to break out the needles. I also love your circular needle sets. I have 3 full sets. Thank you so much for sharing this pattern. I think maybe I’ll even be able to muddle my way through it. It’s way too pretty to start and not finish.
Hello Cheryl,
Thank you for writing and your kind words! Let us know if you have any questions along the way!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Love this design. I am not a fan of garter but I now realise certain yarns create the perfect stitch definition but I am a fan of cables so this is on my ‘Knit List’🙂
I want to make this a bit shorter… Will overall pattern be dramatically effected?
Hello Maryann,
Thank you for reaching out! I don’t think this would be an issue, the only thing that will change is where you end the last cable.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
This looks so soft and warm! What about using one of the 100% baby alpaca yarns? What would you suggest?
Hello Janice,
Thank you for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t currently have a yarn that is 100% alpaca that would be the correct gauge, but our Flax Down is an incredibly soft and 43% Alpaca.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thanks for your quick reply!🧶
Hi
If I would like the scarf a bit narrower is there a multiple I can use to work it with fewer stitches? Thanks
Hello Jane,
Thank you for reaching out! This pattern can be written over any even number of stitches.
Happy knitting,
Marilla
This is so beautiful! Your creativity and generosity are always appreciated. Quick question: I have a few stashed skeins of Good Wool in “Heirlooms White”. What do you think of this scarf in the Good Wool? I recognize that it would be less lofty but tb
Hello Meg,
Thank you for reaching out! Our Good Wool will work beautifully for this pattern as it has a very similar gauge to Flax Down. Plus Good Wool looks beautiful when used for cables.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I cannot where Alpaca or wool due to itching my skin.. Can you recommend other yarns for the same result?
Thank You!
Hello Sue,
Thank you for reaching out! I would reccomend checking out our Cashmere Merino Bloom. It is 75% Merino and 25% Cashmere. I’m not sure where you fall on the spectrum of wool sensitivity, but Merino Wool is often a great option for sensitive skin. Another option is to go 100% Cashmere with Jade Sapphire’s 6ply.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m having trouble with too much slack yarn on the beginning of the cable across rows. I’ve tinked it several times and retried but still have the problem. It’s the point where you sl1 wyif, pm, sl 3 wyif, knit across.
any suggestions?
Hi Vicki,
Thanks for reaching out! I strongly suspect these loose stitches will resolve themselves either with blocking or once you have knitted a few more rows. It is very common to have stitches that appear loose or untidy on either side of a cable, but they usually tighten up and look fine once the piece is blocked. It could also help to give your yarn an extra tug when you start knitting after slipping these stitches, similar to how you would pull the back of i-cord closed.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I love this pattern but I’m not clear about the edges. Do I pull the yarn a bit like I cord?
Thank-you.
Hi Lori,
Great question! Yes, by slipping the first three and last three stitches of every other row, you will create a i-cord along both edges of the scarf, and it will help to give the yarn a bit of an extra tug when you knit these stitches!
Best,
Julianna
Hi there! I love this pattern and have 4 skeins of your understory waiting to be knit up. Do you think that I could use them to knit this scarf?
Thanks!
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for writing in! Understory would be an excellent yarn to substitute in this pattern! Not only does it knit up at the same gauge as Flax Down, since it has more yardage per skein, you should have plenty of yarn with your four skeins.
Happy knitting, and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Thank you so much for getting back to me Julianna 🙂
I have one question on the RC, there is a note after row 3 in the beginning about working RC, k3 , slip marker, then knit stitch from cable. Is this used throughout the pattern or only in this instance because of the shortage of stitches. Thanks
Hello Eileen,
Thank you for reaching out! This note is there to tell you when you should slip your marker for RC so it will happen throughout.
Warmly,
Marilla
I love this scarf. I intend to make the narrow version. I am not a beginner but I just can’t seem to get past Row 4! Row 5 states slip 1 wyif, knit to 3 stitches before the next marker. But my marker is immediately after the wyif. I have worked these rows over and over and I can’t figure out my problem. The marker at the opposite end of my needle is 5 stitches in. Shouldn’t the markers be in the same spot on each end?
I really, really hope you can help me. Thanks, Eileen O’Neill
Hi Eileen,
Thanks for reaching out! So that the markers do not interfere with working the cables, they will not be placed evenly from each edge of the scarf. After working Row 2, in which you place the markers while working a wrong side row, when you are looking at the right side, the first marker should be four stitches from the right edge, and the second marker should be one stitch from the left edge. Although Row 5 may still feel a bit odd, if you have the markers placed correctly, after working the Slip 1 wyif, you will immediately be three stitches away from your first marker and ready to work the LC. In subsequent repeats you will have more stitches to knit before working the LC.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi,
This is a really lovely, simply designed scarf and I can’t wait to start it, but before doing so, I have a problem. I would like to make this scarf for a male friend and I know the edges will be getting rough handling and therefore be stretched. I would like to continue the aran patterning up the garter stitch edges so that they are firmer, but I’m not sure how to do that. Could you give me some pointers on how I might accomplish that. Thanks for much for this free pattern. This yarn looks yummy and soft.
Leigh
Hi Leigh,
Thanks for reaching out! Since the slip stitches on the edge travel across the scarf to become the cabled stitches, you won’t be able to continue them without a jog or funny spot where they start travelling. I would suggest adding 4 stitches to each edge of the scarf, or 8 stitches total, and working those as “slip 3 wyif, k1” at the beginning edge and “k1, slip 3 wyif” at the end on wrong side rows, and knitting them on right side rows, working the rest of the scarf as written in between. You will end up with two columns of slip stitches at the areas where the cables are on the edge, but the edging will continue uninterrupted in between.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hallo, eine Frage zu diesem wunderschönem Schal!
Die Ränder werden nicht schön, da man die Masche von Anfang an ( Slip 3 with yarn in front!) wird es zu locker. Kann mir jemanden sagen wie die Ränder verarbeitet werden?
Vielen Dank und GeĂĽsse
Catherine
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for reaching out! Once the cables have traveled away from the edges of the scarf, you will still slip one stitch at the beginning and end of the right side rows to keep the edges neat. It’s not as visible as slipping three stitches, but it still creates a firm, tidy edge.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Love this web site! Your patterns are fashionable and easy to follow.
Hello,
Can you please clarify the transition from the beginning of pattern to the cable to center portion of the pattern? I’m sure it’s obvious to seasoned knitters but I’m still more of a beginner. The way I’m reading it says to end with Row 2 once you’ve knit 3 inches (which would be ending on the right side) but then to begin the Cable to Center on the right side immediately after. My assumption is I should just do another Row 1 and then start the Cable to Center so I’m on the right side? Please clarify, and thank you so much! I love your patterns!
Hi Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct, you should end the first section with a Row 1, or wrong side row, so that the cable to center section begins with a right side row.
Best,
Julianna
I have read all of your comments and I’m still stuck with rows 4 and 5. Your clarification was not sufficient and the placement of markers is also confusing. I have pulled out my work about 5 times. I wonder if there is a video or a clearer explanation. I’m a prett advanced knitter, but I’m sadly lost and very frustrated. Thank you
Hi Peggy,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m so sorry to hear that you are having trouble with this step! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources at the moment to do a video tutorial of this, but we will keep your request in mind for the future. Is there a particular step in these rows that I can try to make clearer for you?
Best,
Julianna
Hi, Peggy. I was having the same problem, but I figured it out after reading all the comments. If you are willing to try one more time, try this; my error was in Row 5 with the RC stitch. Here’s my version: RC: Sl 1 onto cable needle & hold in back of work, K3, SM, then K1 from the cable needle. (I was placing the marker in the wrong spot! It’s in a note, but somehow I was overlooking it.). And, thanks Julianna for all your help. Now my scarf is progressing beautifully.
Hi Peggy: Not sure if this was your issue, but my problem started on row 4. I slipped the first stitch, then knit to the next marker which is at the end of the row (since there are only two markers), All you should is do on the first row 4 is: Slip 1 wyif, slip marker, slip 3 wyif, THEN knit to the next marker (which is at the end of row), sm, slip 3 wyif, knit to end (two sts). After that, you can do 4 and 5 as written.
This pattern is beautiful and wonderful, but the initial 4 and 5 rows are not exactly knitted as written. I want to add that I went to the Purl Soho store yesterday and was helped through this by Grace – definitely could not have done it without her.
Hi! I love this and recently started to knit it. I’m a little confused about slipping the first three stitches with the yarn in front, because after that the yarn goings to the back to knit the rows, creating a line of yarn in the front, just wanted to make sure this is correct, thank you!
Hi Kiki,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct! If you pull the yarn a bit snugly when bringing it to the back to knit, it should cause these three stitches to curl around and create a rolled or i-cord edge and the strands of yarn in the front should not be obvious. This step is also worked on the wrong side of the scarf, even though it is the first row.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am confused by this instruction:
Row 3 (right side): Slip 1 wyif, LC removing marker, replace marker, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, RC slipping marker, knit to end of row.
Where does the second marker go?
Or, when I start Row 4 – how many stitches in is that marker?
Hi Jani,
Thanks for reaching out! Immediately below this line in the pattern is a note explaining how to place the second marker in this row. When working the RC, k3, slip marker, then knit stitch from cable stitch holder. This should move the second marker one stitch to the right each time you repeat Row 3.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi, I am having trouble understanding the pattern. 🙂 I’m working on the cable to center section. The way I’m reading it, I slip my markers in row 4, but then in row 5, I’m knitting to markers…that aren’t there because I slipped them in row 4. Are the markers supposed to be replaced after they are slipped? Appreciate any help!
Hi Hannah,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, your markers should stay in the work – when you see instructions to slip a marker, that just means to move it to the other needle so it stays in between the same stitches as before. If you are to remove a marker, the pattern will usually say specifically to remove it.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I have made the scarf thinner, 46 cast on instead of the 78.
I’m at the “center cross” wrong side section.
I know I now slip 1 wyif, but how many stitches do I knit before I slip the 6 wyif, knit to end of row.
Thank you,
Kimberly
Hello Kimberly,
Thank you for reaching out! You should be able to follow the pattern as is, because you are going from either edge towards the center.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you for this pattern. It is so lovely. Now that I have finished my scarf, I would really like to make a baby blanket with the delicate cables. Do you have any suggestions as to how I could make that work?
Hi Nicole,
What a lovely idea! This pattern will work with any number of stitches, so you could certainly cast on as many stitches as you would like for a wider blanket and work the pattern as written to create two delicate cables running across the blanket. The length will be a bit trickier to figure out since the cables will take longer to cross in the middle when they have to travel across more stitches, but I would suggest casting off the blanket after the cables move back to the outside edges. Please do let us know how it turns out if you give it a try!
Best,
Julianna
If i want to use lace size yarn, how do i modified the pattern?
Hi Lily,
Thanks for writing in! To knit this scarf in lace weight, I would suggest knitting a gauge swatch in your chosen yarn and then multiplying your stitches per inch by 13 and rounding to the nearest even number to determine how many stitches to cast on. You can then follow the pattern as written!
Best,
Julianna