Windy Day Blanket
Leaves swirling in knee-high eddies and loose papers skimming on a breeze, we love how a windy day shakes thing up a bit! With its scattered bits of color, our Windy Day Blanket offers a little disorder without the chaos, like a gust of fresh air.
Its fascinating construction embraces the no-sewing rule. Knit all in one piece, you work a garter-stitch triangle, rotate, pick up an adjoining edge, and knit the next one. Never boring and very breezy!
For our Windy Day Blanket, we used our plush and cozy Linen Quill Worsted, a mix of fine highland wool, alpaca, and linen. Use the same lively palette we did with our Windy Day Blanket and whip up a Throw size!
UPDATE: NOW IN NEW COLORS
APRIL 2023
Snowflakes, petals, or vibrant leaves in fall, choose between three gorgeous new Windy Day Blanket Bundles made from Linen Quill Worsted’s palette of inspiring colors. Crib- or Throw- sized, cast on the colors that give you a gust of inspiration and enjoy the topsy-turvy beauty of this easy, no-sew blanket!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Jake Canton. Click here to see even more of Jake’s designs!
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoWindyDayBlanket, and #PurlSohoLinenQuillWorsted. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
Our Windy Day Blanket requires 16 skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill Worsted, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein is 164 yards.
NOTE: 16 skeins makes the Throw size Blanket. For the Crib Size, you will only need 6 skeins of Color A. (NOTE: Windy Day Blanket Bundles are no longer available.)
- Color A: 6 (13) skeins of Linen Quill Worsted; approximately 984 (2,132) yards required. We used Pale Oats.
- Color B: 1 skein of Linen Quill Worsted; approximately 79 (117) yards required. We used Dandelion Yellow.
- Color C: 1 skein of Linen Quill Worsted; approximately 87 (164) yards required. We used Bright Flamingo.
- Color D: 1 skein of Linen Quill Worsted; approximately 87 (133) yards required. We used Super Orange.
You will also need…
- US 7 (4.5 mm), 24-inch circular needles
And here are two more pretty palettes for inspiration…
Color A: Pale Oats; Color B: True Turquoise
Color C: Eggshell Blue; Color D: Cobalt Blue
Color A: Pale Oats; Color B: Stonewall Gray
Color C: Kettle Black; Color D: Stillwater Blue
Gauge
18 stitches and 36 rows (18 garter ridges) = 4 inches in garter stitch
NOTE: This pattern uses almost the full skein of Colors A and C, so swatch in Colors B or D and make sure you achieve this gauge in order to ensure that you have enough yarn.
Sizes
Crib (Throw)
Finished Dimensions: 28 inches wide x 42 inches long (42 inches wide x 56 inches long)
Sample: The blanket pictured here is Throw size.
Notes
Picking Up Stitches
For instructions and a video tutorial on how to pick up stitches along a vertical edge in garter stitch, please visit our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial.
Changing Colors
Make sure you are always changing colors on right side rows, i.e. with the right side of the blanket facing you.
Basic Square Schematic
Basic Square Instructions
Basic Triangle 1
Cast on 45 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 together (k2tog). [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
Basic Triangle 2
With the right side of Triangle 1 facing you and its cast-on edge oriented vertically, join yarn and pick up and knit 45 stitches [see Picking Up Stitches Note, above] along the top edge of Triangle 1.
Row 1 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
Basic Triangle 3
With the right side of the piece facing you and picked-up edge oriented vertically, pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 2.
Row 1 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
Basic Triangle 4
With the right side of the piece facing you, orient the last picked-up edge vertically and starting at the center of the square, pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 3.
Row 1 (wrong side): Knit to last stitch, slip last stitch knitwise to right needle, pick up and knit 1 stitch from the adjacent cast-on edge of Triangle 1, pass slipped stitch over.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
Attached Squares Instructions
Attached Triangle 1
Cast on 45 stitches.
With the right side facing you, pick up and knit 45 stitches along the edge of the previous Square’s Triangle 3. [90 stitches]
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K47, place marker (pm), knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to marker, slip marker (sm), k2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Turn work. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): K1, remove marker (rm), k1, pm, knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 4 stitches remain, ending with Row 2 and removing the marker.
Next Row (right side): K2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Turn work. [2 stitches decreased]
Next Row (wrong side): K1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle.
Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
Attached Triangle 2
With the right side facing you, orient the cast-on edge of Triangle 1 vertically, then pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 1.
With the right side facing you, turn the blanket upside down so that the top edge is the bottom edge, then pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 4 of the Square indicated in the pattern.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K47, place marker (pm), knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to marker, k2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Turn work. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): K1, remove marker (rm), k1, pm, knit to end of row.
Repeat Row 1 and 2 until 4 stitches remain on the needle, ending with Row 2 and removing the marker.
Next Row (right side): K2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Turn work. [2 stitches remain]
Next Row (wrong side): K1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
Attached Triangle 3
With the right side facing you, orient the picked-up edge of Triangle 2 vertically, then pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 2.
With the right side facing you, turn the blanket 90 degrees counterclockwise so the top of the blanket is on your right and the bottom is on your left, then pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 1 of the Square indicated in the pattern.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K47, place marker (pm), knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to marker, k2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Turn work. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): K1, remove marker (rm), k1, pm, knit to end of row.
Repeat Row 1 and 2 until 4 stitches remain on the needle, ending with Row 2 and removing the marker.
Next Row (right side): K2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Turn work. [2 stitches remain]
Next Row (wrong side): K1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
NOTE: Having trouble visualizing the Attached Triangles section? One of our wonderful customers made this helpful PDF guide. Thank you Pajes!
Layout Schematic
Below is a schematic of the full layout for the blanket. Work the Squares in order from 1 to 12.
Want to see it bigger? Here’s a pdf…
Pattern
Square 1
Triangle 1
NOTE: Mark the right side of the work with a removable stitch marker to keep track of the right side.
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1 in the BASIC SQUARE INSTRUCTIONS (see Notes).
Triangle 2
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 2, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 13 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color B, continue following the same instructions for the rest of the Triangle.
Triangle 3
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 3, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 24 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color C, continue following the same instructions for the rest of the Triangle.
Triangle 4
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
Square 2
Triangle 1
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 1 in the ATTACHED SQUARE INSTRUCTIONS (see Notes).
Triangles 2 + 3
With Color A, repeat the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 2 and BASIC TRIANGLE 3.
Triangle 4
With Color C, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
Square 3
Triangle 1
With Color A, following the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 1, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 36 stitches remain on right needle after final Row 1. Cut Color A.
With Color D, continue following the same instructions and repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 20 stitches remain on right needle after final Row 1. Cut Color D.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 1.
Triangle 2
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 2, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 27 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color C, continue following the same instructions and repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 18 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color C.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 2.
Triangle 3 + Triangle 4
With Color A, repeat the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 3 and BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
Square 4
Triangle 1
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1.
Triangle 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2 (see Notes), picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 3.
Triangle 3
With Color B, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 3.
Triangle 4
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 31 stitches remain, Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color D, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 4.
Square 5
Triangle 1
With Color B, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 37 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color B.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 1.
Triangle 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 2.
Triangle 3
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 3, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 1 from SQUARE 4.
Triangle 4
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
Square 6
Triangle 1
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1.
Triangle 2
With Color A, follow instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 1. Cut Color A.
With Color D, continue following the same instructions and repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 22 stitches remain on the right needle after final Row 1. Cut Color D.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 2.
Triangle 3
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 3, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 1 from SQUARE 5.
Triangle 4
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 11 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color C, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 4.
Finishing: Crib Size Only
If making the Crib size, weave in the ends and wet block. (If making the Throw size, continue with Squares 7-12.)
Square 7: Throw Size Only
Triangle 1
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 22 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color D, following the same instructions, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 18 stitches remain. Cut Color D.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 1.
Triangle 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 6.
Triangle 3
With Color C, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 3, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 11 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color C.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 3.
Triangle 4
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
Square 8
Triangle 1
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 1, picking up stitches along the edge of Triangle 3 from Square 7.
Triangle 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 5 and repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 31 stitches remain on the right needle after final Row 1. Cut Color A.
With Color B, following the same instructions, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 22 stitches remain on the right needle after final Row 1. Cut Color B.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 2.
Triangle 3
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 3, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 18 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color D, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 3.
Triangle 4
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
Square 9
Triangle 1
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 1, picking up stitches along the edge of Triangle 3 from Square 8.
Triangle 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 4.
Triangle 3
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 3.
Triangle 4
With Color C, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 27 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 4.
Square 10
Triangle 1
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 38 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color D, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 1.
Triangle 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 9.
Triangle 3
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 3, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 19 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color B, following the same instructions, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 15 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color B.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 3.
Triangle 4
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
Square 11
Triangle 1
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1.
Triangle 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 8.
Triangle 3
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 3, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 1 from SQUARE 10.
Triangle 4
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 15 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color C, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 4.
Square 12
Triangle 1
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1.
Triangle 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 7 and repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 31 stitches remain on right needle after final Row 1. Cut Color A.
With Color B, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 2.
Triangle 3
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 3, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 1 from SQUARE 11.
Triangle 4
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
Finishing
Weave in the ends, making sure to close the gaps where four squares meet. Wet block, if desired.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Precioso!!! Y muy divertido de hacer. Me encanta. El diseño es espectacular
Could this throw be done with Sweetgrass (two yarns)? That yarn is just so comfy!
Hi Diane,
Great question! I think this blanket would be absolutely beautiful knit in Sweetgrass held double! As always, when substituting a different yarn, you will have to knit a gauge swatch before you get started, but I don’t think you will have any trouble matching our gauge.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
LOVE Jake’s designs! this is going to be a sweet baby blanket.
I’m having trouble adding this gorgeous Windy Day blanket to my favorites for a later purchase. can you help?
Hi Ronnee,
Thank you so much for getting in touch! Unfortunately, we are having some technical difficulties with our wish list and favorites system at the moment, but we’re aware of the problem and hope to have it fixed soon. If you still aren’t able to add the item to your favorites in the next few days, please let us know at customerservice@purlsoho.com!
Best,
Julianna
I love this pattern! How fun! I’d like to make it in Cotton Pure though – what needle size would you suggest and would it change the final crib size dramatically?
Thank you!
Anne
Hi Anne,
The Windy Day Blanket would be beautiful in our Cotton Pure. I would suggest starting with a size 6 needle. Since the cotton pure is a lighter yarn than the Linen Quill Worsted, the blanket will turn out smaller but not by much. I recommend knitting a swatch with the Cotton Pure and comparing your gauge with the gauge in the pattern. This would be the best way to see how the size will be affected. You may need to size up to a size 7.
Let me know if there is anything else I can help you with.
Happy knitting,
Oscar
This is beautiful! Would love to see a crochet version of the pattern.
Hi Jess,
Thank you so much for the kind words! I’ll be sure to pass your request along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
You have outdone yourselves with this one! I love the geometry of the triangles forming squares, and the fun of the random asymmetric
flashes of color. Thank you, Purl Soho.
The yardage on colour A seems to be incorrect?
Hi Robyn,
Thanks for bringing this to our attention. Good catch! The correct yard for color A is 2,132 yards. We’ve updated it on the website.
Best,
Oscar
Thinking of substitution another worsted yarn. Wondering why the number of skeins of pale oats is 13 when the yardage is listed at 1,132 yards. Linen Quill Worsted is listed as 164 yds/skein. This would be 7 skeins needed.
Should the number of yards needed be 2,132?
Thinking of using Anzula For Better or Worsted.
Thanks!
Hi Susan.
Thanks how writing in! Good catch! We had a small typo and the correct yardage for color A is 2,132. We have now corrected this on the website.
Happy knitting,
Oscar
Comments are not visible on this web page.
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for writing in! We recently did a massive upgrade on our website, and we are still working out some of the kinks. Missing comments is one of them, but don’t worry! We still have them, and our tech team is working on getting them back on the website.
Best,
Oscar
Do you have another yarn, mostly wool I could sub in for the quill? I’m looking for different colors . Thx
Hi Mechelle,
Thanks for reaching out! You could use just about any worsted weight yarn for this blanket. Worsted Twist, Anzula For Better Or Worsted, or Manos del Uruguay Maxima would all be super cozy and lovely alternatives!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello,
I can’t see the comments when clicking on “COMMENTS”.
Is it normal?
Diane
Hi Diane,
Thanks for writing in! We recently did a massive upgrade on our website, and we are still working out some of the kinks. Missing comments is one of them, but don’t worry! We still have them, and our tech team is working on getting them back on the website.
Best,
Oscar
Two questions. Is there a way to view previous comments? I know that I have in the past, but can’t seem to view them now.
Also, can this Windy Day Blanket, be easily adapted to stockinette stitch?
Thanks for your help.
Hi Katie,
Thank you so much for getting in touch, and I apologize that our comments aren’t available at the moment! We are experiencing a few technical difficulties with our site right now, but our web team is hard at work to get everything restored as quickly as possible. The comments should be back in the next day or two! Unfortunately, this blanket cannot be knit in stockinette stitch. The row gauge of stockinette and garter stitch are very different, so substituting stockinette stitch would result in very elongated triangles and somewhat kite-shaped blocks instead of squares. You might be able to use stockinette stitch if you decrease on every row instead of every other row, but I would recommend trying it out in a swatch to find out!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I’d like to see a photo of the finished Windy Day Blanket made in the blue hues. Thanks.
Hi Wendy,
Thanks for writing in! I’m afraid we don’t have a sample of the other colorways of our Windy Day Blanket knit yet either! Hopefully this will be a possibility in the future!
Warmly,
Julianna
I see there are 22 responses but they aren’t showing up? Love reading these and get lots of good advice . . . . .
Hi Gretchen,
Thank you so much for getting in touch, and I apologize that our comments aren’t available at the moment! We are experiencing a few technical difficulties with our site right now, but our web team is hard at work to get everything restored as quickly as possible. The comments should be back in the next day or two, but if you have any questions in the meantime, please let us know!
All the best,
Julianna
As I’m reading through the pattern and trying to visualize it in my head, are the attached triangles essentially mitered squares? With the 90 stitches instead of 45? I’m trying to envision how it would work and every time I read the instructions I get confused. Thanks!
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! The pattern might seem similar to mitered squares at first glance, but the process is quite different! In each step of this blanket, you will be knitting a right triangle which has two shorter but equal length sides and one long side. The cast on or pick up edge will be one of the shorter sides and you will knit your way to the opposite point of the triangle by decreasing at the end of every right-side row, so that edge of the triangle where you are decreasing will become diagonal while the other edge will stay perpendicular to the cast on. In a way, it’s almost like casting on just half of a mitered square! This pattern will work with any number of cast ons stitches, so you might want to try making a mini square by casting on about 15 stitches to get the hang of the things.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
When you slip stitches for the attached triangle do you slip knitwiswe or purlwise thx!
Hi Andrea,
Great question! When working the attached triangles, you will be slipping purlwise. In general, unless it is specified to slip knitwise, you can assume that the stitch should be slipped purlwise!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Love this pattern! Question though. when doing the k2 together then slip one, do I slip one with yarn in the front, then turn? Thanks.
Hi Ellie,
Thanks for reaching out! For this step in the attached triangles, after slipping the stitch, you will first pass the stitch from the k2tog you just worked over the slipped stitch and off the needle, then turn without moving the yarn. After that, you can move the yarn to the back of the work to knit the next row!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thank you!!!
Finished my crib sized Windy Day Blanket – got compliments from my knitting daughter and knitting friend. Such a perfect pattern for me – no seaming and no purling! No matter how painstaking I am, I always feel that my seaming detracts from the finished project. And hand issues make the purl stitch problematic. I did “tweak” a little – on the triangles with more than one color, I put a marker at the stitch where the color change will take place (saves me nervously recounting and recounting on every row) And on triangle 4, where there is one stitch at a time picked up from the neighboring triangle to join, I used a spare needle and picked up all 45 at once, holding them until needed. This let me be sure I wouldn’t end up a stitch over or short, and also that all the stitches were picked up the same way. And although I usually staple all the pages of a pattern together after printing out, for this one I had 4 separate stacks on my worktable: the actual directions, the regular triangles, the attached triangles and the schematic(s)! And I’d like to add that I really appreciate all your kind, positive, encouraging responses to those knitters writing in with questions. So many times I see “of course you can!” Thanks again, and thanks for all the beautifully crafted patterns and super clear directions!
Hi Gretchen,
Thank you so much for your kind words and for sharing these incredibly helpful tips and tricks! It sounds like you truly enjoyed the process, and that your blanket turned out beautiful to boot. We hope all of our patterns can bring you this much gratification!
All the best,
Julianna
Hi – I’m embarrassed to say that I am stuck after the first triangle. I am having a hard time orienting my triangle to know from which side to pick up stitches for triangle #2. I know that it should be one of the “right angle” sides and not the hypotenuse, but is it the cast-on or the non-cast-on side? And does one pick up starting from the right angle corner or the corner with the hypotenuse? Thanks.
Hi Laurie,
Thanks for reaching out, I am happy to help with this! To start triangle 2 you will be picking up the stitches on the non cast-on edge. It helps to orient yourself by making sure you have the right side up and keeping the cast on edge vertical. Once you have the orientation correct you will be picking up the stitches moving right to left so that when you are finished picking up stitches you are ready to work row one on the wrong side.
Hope this helps, happy kitting!
Gianna
Got it – thanks!
I love the Purl Soho Patterns. I’m a relative novice and look to expand and hone my skills with each project. I’d like some help with the basic #4 triangle. At the end of Row 1 ‘pick up and knit 1 stitch from the adjacent cast-on edge of Triangle 1 and pass slipped stitch over’; when picking up from the cast on edge of triangle 1 am I meant to
put my needle through from the wrong side? I‘Ve tried both, but haven’t been able to make it look neat and tidy.
Hi Kaneta,
Thanks for reaching out! Our Picking Up Stitches tutorial is a great resource to use and will show you the best way to pick up stitches for a neat and tidy look!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I am having the same issue. I’ve tried the Basic #4 triangle multiple times and can’t get the joined stitches to look acceptable. I don’t see where in the tutorial (or more generally, online) this type of join is addressed. Any advice you could provide as to how to go about picking up stitches from the cast-on edge? Do you go in from the right side to the wrong, or vice versa? Under both legs of the edge, or one leg or the other? Thx
Hi Shel,
Thanks for writing in! Here is our Picking Up Stitches tutorial! It goes into depth about the different
ways to pick up stitches including along the cast on edge. For this piece you will have it oriented with the right side of the piece facing you. Orient the last picked-up edge vertically and starting at the center of the square, pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 3.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I’m having the same trouble with Basic Triangle 4, not with the initial 45 picked up stitches but with the picked up stitch at the end of Row 1 on the wrong side that creates the join to Triangle 1. Picking up knitwise while on the wrong side does not create a neat edge nor does picking up purlwise . The Picking Up videos do not deal with a pickup in this same orientation. Any clarity you can provide would be appreciated.
Hi Bethany,
Thanks for reaching out! For Basic Triangle 4 you should be working with the right side facing you, orient the last picked-up edge vertically and starting at the center of the square, pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 3. Since you are working on the right side of the triangle for this one you may have any easier time picking up the stitches!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi
I really stuck with my first attached triangle for square 2. I just can’t get the cast on 45 and then pick 45 to get 90 stitches. I am all confused.
I am confused here where it says to “pick up and knit” – does this mean you knit each stitch after you pick it up? Or is it just meaning that you are picking up knitwise? I watched your picking up stitches tutorial to make sure I was not missing something about the technique or the typical terminology…
also- I hate weaving in ends and keep wondering if there’s a way to adjust this system so you are picking up the edge of the previous triangle with the yarn you previously used… have you already determined that this isn’t possible? Perhaps it’s impossible as it would require picking up from the wrong side- but curious what the experts think!
Hi Jessica,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, you pick up and knit each stitch as you work across the row to get the picked up stitches on the needle!
It would be tricky to use the pre-existing strand to pick up the stitches since you would be working the wrong direction which would effect the direction you shape each triangle.
I hope this clears things up, happy knitting!
Gianna
I continue to be lost and confused at this point also. The pattern says to cast on 45. It then says …
With the right side facing you, pick up and knit 45 stitches along the edge of the previous Square’s Triangle 3. [90 stitches]
Above you state there is no need for 90 stitches, but the above says there should be 90 stitches. Can you please clarify this again. Looking at the photo of the blanket and reading the directions, I’m just not visualizing any of this.
Thank you.
Hi Taryn,
Thanks for reaching out! As you can see in the pattern there are two sets of instructions for each on the squares and triangles within the squares that you will be following. For example you are either following the BASIC SQUARE INSTRUCTIONS for BASIC TRIANGLE 1-4 or ATTACHED SQUARES INSTRUCTIONS for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 1-3. The questions I was answering above was referring to the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 2 and BASIC TRIANGLE 3 where you are only picking up stitches not casting on additional stitches. The section you are referring to in the instructions is for the ATTACHED TRIANGLE 1 section where you do cast on 45 stitches and then pick up 45 stitches so that you are working across 90. In the pattern under each square and each triangle it clearly tells you which section of instructions to follow!
I hope this helps to clarify the pattern for you, and please feel free to reach out with any more questions you may have moving forward!
All the best,
Gianna
Do you have a recommendation about whether straight or circular needles would be best for the throw size blanket? I am a beginner and have enjoyed the Four Points baby blanket. Thank you for your beautiful pattern!
Hi Jane,
Thanks for writing in! That is totally up to you, both the straight or circular needles work great since you are only working across 45 stitches at a time, so use whichever you are more comfortable working on!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Square 3, Triangle 1
I’m ready to change to color D. The instructions say “36 stitches remain on the RIGHT needle after final Row 1. I have a total of 36 stitches but they are on both needles. Do I change to the new color in the middle of the row at the marker or finish the row (on the wrong side) and then begin the new color. I have the same instructions after I finish with color D and go back to color A. In these instructions there are always stitches on two needles unless I am beginning a new right side facing row.
HELP. I’m confused! Thank you.
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! All the stitches should be on the right needle not spread out between two. You shouldn’t be changing the colors mid row, but rather at the end of the rows when all the stitches are on one needle!
I hope this helps, feel free to reach out with any more questions!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi There,
I am having trouble with Triangle 2 of the second square. The instructions seem to imply it is attached at two points but pickup is along the side of triangle 1, Square 2.
Any help you can offer? I am totally confused.
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for reaching out! When it says “ATTACHED TRIANGLE” it is referring to the explanation of the step in the notes sections. So for Square 2 you follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 1 in the ATTACHED SQUARE INSTRUCTIONS in notes.
I hope this helps and feel free to reach out with any more questions going forward!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
I am confused about Triangle 2 in Square 2. Do I cast on 45 stitches and then pick up 45 stitches from the top of Triangle 1? If not, I don’t see how to pick up 45 from the top edge and from another edge all while working on the right side. Please clarify! And thanks!
Hi Ann,
Thanks for reaching out! For Triangle 2 in Square 2, you are not casting on 45 stitches just picking up the 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 1.
I hope this helps and please feel free to reach out with anymore questions going forward!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
I’m lost at this part as well. I’ve picked up 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 1 (first triangle of square 2 and the non-cast on edge)
The next step says to pick up the next 45 stitches from the top of Triangle 4 (assuming this means T4 from Square 1) but Triangle 4 opposes Triangle 2 in every diagram.
I’m unclear on where the next 45 stitches are to be picked up visually – any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
thanks!
ck
Hi CK,
Thanks for reaching out! For Triangle 1 of Square 2 after you cast on 45 stitches, with the right side facing you, you will pick up and knit 45 stitches along the edge of the previous Square’s Triangle 3! So not the triangle 3 of the square you are working on but rather the previous square that should already be completed by this step.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi,
I’m stuck at Square 2, Attached triangle 1. I’ve casted on 45st and picked up 45 st. (90 st) What happens to the 45 cast on stitches?
I can’t envison how this works.
A photo would be most helpful.
Thank you!
Hi Arlene,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources to photograph the steps at this time but I will be sure to pass this along to the team! The 45 Stitches you cast on become one of the diagonal sides of the triangle and the 45 stitches you pick up are the bottom edge of the triangle that is attached to the 1st square.
I hope this helps clarify things and feel free to reach out with anymore questions going forward!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi, I’m with Arlene. Stuck on starting square 2, Attached triangle one.I’m so confused. It’s a pity you can’t explain with images. Just to clarify – if we think if triangle one with the 90 degree angle in the centre and 2 arms ( I think you are calling these the diagonal sides), left and right, and with the hypotenuse connecting the 2 arms, can you tell me if the right arm (diagonal on right)forms the 45 cast on stitches and we are picking up stitches along the hypotenuse of triangle 3 of square 1? Is this correct?
Hi Joanne,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources available to photograph all the steps fo for this blanket but I will be sure to pass your interest along! And yes! That is correct!
Please feel free to reach out with any more questions going forward!
All the best,
Gianna
Sorry, I read again all the instructions and comments. I understand that I do need to cast 45 and then pick up 45 to have 90 stitches. But as I’m working along the instructions I’m still very much confused – I am working only on the cast on side and it’s not continuous to triangle 3 of the 1st square in any way. what am I missing?
Hi Hager,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes for Square 2 Triangle 1 you are casting on 45 stitches and picking up 45 stitches from the edge of Triangle 3 from the previous Square 1. You are working across all the stitches so that the 45 stitches you cast on are the diagonal side of Triangle 1.
I hope this helps clarify things but please feel free to reach out with any more questions going further!
All the best,
Gianna
I am wondering if you could recommend a color palette in blues for this blanket, using the Manos Maxima yarn? Thank you!
Maureen
Hi Maureen,
Thanks for writing in! A blue palette would be so lovely for this blanket! I have two options to recommend in Maxima that I believe would be beautiful combinations, option 1 would be:
Color A: Natural
Color B: Helium
Color C: Teal
Color D: Ultra Marine
Option 2 would be:
Color A: Natural
Color B: Stratus
Color C: Ion
Color D: Royal
I hope this helps, and please let us know how this turns out!
All the best,
Gianna
I’m stuck. Can I send you a photo? Scrapyarn triangle 1 doesn’t correspond to diagram and fear I have picked up sts onwrong edge for next triangle
I’m not a pro. Reading patterns.
Anne
Hi Anne,
Thanks for reaching out! You can send us a photo of your work to our email customerservice@purlsoho.com and we can see if we can trouble shoot from there!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi there,
I too am lost on the initial instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE1. I’ve successfully cast-on, knit my set-up row, and knit up to the part in step one below where it says “turn work”:
*Row 1 (right side): Knit to marker, slip marker (sm), k2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Turn work.*
This adds a row onto the cast-on stitches and seems to say that I should double back onto the cast-on row (rather than continue knitting onto the “attached” half of the 90 stitches) when turning over to the wrong side. Is this correct?
I am 100% clear on what the stitches are and how to k2tog, slip, etc but I cannot figure out WHERE to put them as it makes no sense to build the cast-on side and disregard the attached side.
Thanks for your help,
ck
Hi CK,
Thanks for reaching out! For this section you will be working over both the cast on edge and the previous triangle, you are not disregarding the attached side but you are not knitting rows on it either since it is already fully formed. Rather you are building the Attached Triangle and connecting it to the previous triangle by passing the second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle before you turn work.
I hope this clarifies things for you, and please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
Thanks so much for the quick reply! This is helpful – one more clarifying question for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 1.
Step 2 says: Set-Up Row (wrong side): K47, place marker (pm), *knit to end of row*.
Does this mean to knit to the end of the *cast on row* or knit across all 90 stitches to set up for the remainder of this triangle?
If the instructions clarified what “end of row” meant in this section, it would clarify a lot.
Again, thanks and have a great day!
Hi CK,
No problem, I am happy to help! For the set up row, after you K47, place marker (pm), you will continue across the rest of the stitches and knit to end of row (meaning all 90 stitches!)
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gianna
definitely does – thanks a mil x
The 45 pick up stitches – are they supposed to be spread across the whole long side of previous triangle 3 or do you pick up 45 stitches that takes you half way across long side of previous triangle 3? Really struggling with attached triangle one.
Hi Megan,
Thanks for reaching out! For Attached Triangle 1 after you cast on 45 stitches you will then with the right side facing you, pick up and knit 45 stitches along the edge of the previous Square’s Triangle 3. This will be the long edge of Triangle 3 only!
I hope this clears things up but please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
For square 3 triangle 1, when I start with color D, I am seeing a loop of color A show in every other row on the right side. Am I doing something wrong? I tried looking at the photos here to see if the finished piece has the same look. Please advise. Thank you.
Hi Kim,
Thanks for reaching out! That means that you are not working the color row on the correct side, when changing to a new color there will be a line of the previous color showing but it should appear on the wrong side of the fabric and look seamless on the right side!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thanks, Gianna. My question. Is not about the full row of color showing when I switch colors (which is showing on the wrong side in my piece). It’s about one stitch in every other row showing as color A even when I’m knitting with color D… after starting triangle 1 in square 3, when I knit with color D, color A is still visible at the start of each row where I decrease 2 stitches (as specified). Is it expected for color a to show at the start of the row when decreasing?
Hi Kim,
Thanks for reaching out again! I see what you mean, if you email us a photo of your work to our email customerservice@purlsoho.com we may be able to trouble shoot further!
All the best,
Gianna
I think I’m having the same issue as Kim did in square 3, triangle 1 when switching to color D. I see a color A stitch at the beginning of every color D row. Was there a solution? The only thing I can think of is picking up stitches in color A, then switching to color D, and switching back to color A.
Hi Avery,
Thanks for reaching out! With the previous customer we found that she had been picking up her stitches too far away from the edge and it was causing a ridge to form appearing as Color A stitches at the beginning of every Color D row. I would double check that you are picking up the stitches just along the edge and not too far down, our Picking Up Stitches tutorial is an excellent resource to use!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am having the exact same problem! Didn’t have a problem with square two and the seam but square three keeps showing that stitch on the right side of work where I slip it after the knit two together. Did you get an answer? I keep taking my work apart and I am so frustrated!
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out! With the previous customer we found that she had been picking up her stitches too far away from the edge and it was causing a ridge to form appearing as Color A stitches at the beginning of every Color D row. I would double check that you are picking up the stitches just along the edge and not too far down, I would recommend checking out our Picking Up Stitches tutorial, is an excellent resource to use and we show you exactly how we like to pick up and knit stitches!
I hope this helps, but if you are still having issues please send a few photos to our team at customerservice@purlsoho.com and they can troubleshoot further from there!
All the best,
Gianna
I am on triangle 4 and keep getting lost. Knitting the throw size
Hi Anne,
Thanks for reaching out! Are you on Triangle 4 of the first square? If you for that triangle you will be following the instructions for the BASIC TRIANGLE 4: you will start with the right side of the piece facing you, orient the last picked-up edge vertically and starting at the center of the square, pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 3. You will then follow row 1 working on the wrong side: Knit to last stitch, slip last stitch knitwise to right needle, pick up and knit 1 stitch from the adjacent cast-on edge of Triangle 1, pass slipped stitch over. Then you will work Row 2 on the right side: Knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [1 stitch decreased] You will then Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains, cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
I hope this clarifies things for you!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi! For attached triangle 1, what kind of cast on should I use for the first 45 stitches?
Hi Avery,
Thanks for reaching out! We used Long Tail Cast On throughout the blanket pattern!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi! I love this pattern, and would like to knit in a wool. What yarn would you recommend to get good color selection and appropriate gauge?
Hi Maureen,
Thanks for reaching out! The pattern is originally designed with Linen Quill Worsted which is a beautiful blend of 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. You could also use our Worsted Twist which is 100% merino wool and would work up to a similar gauge! It also comes in a beautiful selection of colors! I do recommend working a gauge swatch to insure your gauge is consistent with the pattern before beginning!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Question on Gauge:
If 18 sts = 4”, how can 45 sts = 14”?
By my calculation, it would take 63 sts to get 14”.
45 sts would equal 10”
Hi Sue,
Thanks for reaching out! That is correct, however in reference to the triangles, 14″ has nothing to do with the amount of stitches you are casting on! If you look at the triangle diagram we’ve provided you can see that the edge you cast on (45 stitches) becomes one of the inner sides of the triangle that will be connected to the other triangles to form the square (all of these inner edges should measure 10″!) While you are making the triangle, the edge you are decreasing on will form a diagonal which will come out to be 14″!
I hope this clarifies things, happy knitting!
Gianna
Oh, of course! Thanks for the explanation. It makes perfect sense if you read the diagram correctly! 🤣
Hello!
I would like to make this baby blanket. Do you have a yarn recommendation that is also machine washable?
Thank you!
Hi Johnna,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend checking out MANOS DEL URUGUAY Serpentina! It is a superwash (machine washable!) worsted weight so it should be consistent with the pattern and comes in a beautiful selection of colors! I do recommend working a gauge swatch whenever using a different yarn from the pattern to insure you are consistent!
Warmly,
Gianna
Is there a trick to making the 4th square look as perfect as the others? I counted my rows and made that the same number of stitches I picked up but it still does not look as nicely attached as the other 3 triangles.
Hi Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help figure this one out- if you would like send us a photo of your work to our email customerservice@purlsoho.com and we can troubleshoot further from there!
All the best,
Gianna
I agree with the people who are confused about Attached Triangle 1, square 2. What happens to the 45 stitches you are not knitting across?
Hi Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! For Attached Triangle 1, after you cast on the 45 stitches and pick up 45 stitches you will work the Set-Up Row (wrong side): K47, place marker (pm), knit to end of row (working across all 90 stitches) You will then work rows 1 + 2 working across all of the stitches until 4 of the original 90 stitches remain, ending with Row 2 and removing the marker. You will then work the next 2 rows finishing off the triangle!
I hope this clarifies things and please feel free to reach out with any other questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi — I just finished weaving in the ends and it’s gorgeous and I love it. I’m sending it to my sister for her birthday later this month. I was wondering if you recommend wet blocking or not – what are the pros and cons if I used the beautiful Linen Quill Worsted from the kit?
Hi FB,
Thanks for reaching out! I certainly recommend wet blocking this blanket! Not only will it give a beautiful even look and let you make sure all your stitches are even and well distributed but it is also a great treatment for this yarn in particular. With the linen content in Linen Quill Worsted, the more the blanket is used and washed the softer the yarn becomes! So I highly recommend always blocking when using Linen Quill Worsted, it will give this beautiful yarn and even more scrumptious texture!
I hope this helps and please let us know how this turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
I figured it out! This pattern is great. I think the confusion (based on other people’s questions and my own) is the way the instructions are laid out. You really have to read through everything since information is scattered throughout the pattern. Thanks for your response!
This blanket was a welcomed challenge. I did have some difficulty matching up the triangles precisely. Completed and given to my daughter for Christmas. I would like to try again in a different color scheme.
what if this were made bigger by one whole square added on the long and short side? So 14″ longer and 14″ wider?
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for reaching out! I think you could certainly increase the length and width of this blanket by adding additional squares!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am having trouble getting the seams of the squares to line up perfectly. Will I be able to adjust this when I block the blanket?
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! That is something you can absolutely fix when Blocking the finished blanket!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi
I’m loving this pattern so far. I finished square one and now onto square two (attached triangle 1). I’ve tried it a handful of times and can’t seem to get it. Have ready other comments here for tips but still don’t know what in doing wrong.
Where it says to pass second stitch over first and off needle, does this mean completely off the needle of you put it back into the left needle? Whenever I have tried it completely off the needle within 2 or 3 rows it all unravels and I have to take it out.
I also don’t understand on row two where it says k1 rm k1. Once I did the passed over stitch and turned the work I started on the stitch marker, as in there was no stitch infront of it to knit first.
Hope this makes sense .
(In Row 1 (right side): Knit to marker, slip marker (sm), k2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Turn work. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): K1, remove marker (rm), k1, pm, knit to end of row)
Hi Kirsty,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes that is correct, when it says to pass stitch over the first (stitch) and off needle you are basically working a bind off so the stitch should be completely off of the needle! This shouldn’t unravel if you are passing the stitch over the other stitch and off, it should be locked into place!
For the second row you are simply removing the marker and re-placing it! You will knit 1 (this should be the stitch that you passed the previous stitch over) remove the marker, knit 1 and then re-place the marker.
We had an amazing customer document the entire Attached Triangle process with step by step photos that we have shared on this page! I would recommend checking it out to help you visualize these steps. You can find this PDF at the end of the ATTACHED TRIANGLE 3 section, or here!
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi, if I wanted to make the whole blanket but crib size (I like how many triangles are in the throw size) how many stitches would you recommend casting on? Unlike some of your other blankets on the website, the crib size isn’t a mini version of the full size, but rather of half size which I hadn’t realized.
Hi Sophia,
Thanks for reaching out! Since we only have a pattern available for one square size and don’t offer a written pattern to adjust the size of the squares it may take a bit of trial and error to get a smaller square. Keep in mind that the squares are worked over 90 stitches, 45 each side. So depending on if your gauge is consistent with the pattern and how big you would like the squares to be you can play around and come up with the size you would like.
Please let us know how this turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi. HELP! I am on square 4, triangle 2 . I followed the directions, I thought, but there are still 25 stitches on my needle after the marker was finished. Also it needs more knitting to finish the triangle, but I can’t because it of the knit two together finished end. Is there anyway I can get help via video chat from someone who can actually look at what I am doing wrong?
Thank you,
Debbie
Hi Debbie,
Thanks for reaching out! We do offer Zoom sessions! You can send our team an email at customerservice@purlsoho.com and they can help you further from there!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thank you so much, the baby whose blanket this is for was born last month!
I have sent an email, and hopefully they will get back to me soon.
Debbie
Will you be recommending additional color combinations? It is difficult not having the yarn in person and side by side to pull this selection off successfully. Thank you.
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! At this time we don’t have plans to release additional combinations besides the palettes we already have. However I am more than happy to suggest a color palette for you if you would like!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am quite sure I read somewhere that a knitter created a tutorial of this blanket but now I cannot find it. I’m quite sure I pulled it up but apparently didn’t keep it bookmarked. Can you help? I’ve read through everything.
Hi Sandy,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes that is correct! We had an excellent customer create a PDF guide to help with the attached triangles, you can find it here!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am wanting to make this blanket in Campo. I’m thinking that if I have a gauge of 4 stitches to the inch, then in order to get the 10” length of the cast on edge, I ought to only cast on with 40 rather than 45… Does that sound, right? Do you have to cast on in any particular increments for things to work out right? I just finished the easy puzzle blanket, so I am somewhat familiar with the pattern concept…
Also, I’m hoping that Campo won’t pill as much as blue sky worsted cotton seems to. Is it comparably soft and cuddly?
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for reaching out! I think Campo would be a great option for this blanket! I am such a big fan of this yarn! It is incredibly soft and cuddly, and I actually like how it feels and work up even better than 100% cotton since it has the lovely addition of wool in it!
Since Campo is a worsted/aran weight like Linen Quill Worsted is, I would actually recommend working a gauge swatch with the recommended needle prior to beginning because you may be okay with the pattern as written. That way you can asses your gauge because it may be easier to play around with the needle size rather than changing the cast on since this pattern can be a little tricky!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am working on square 2. I have triangle 1 done. I’m stuck on triangle 2. I’m working Attached Squares Instruction. Attached Square 2. I understand picking up 45 sets along top edge of triangle 1. BUT then it says to turn blanket upside down and pickup 45 sets along the edge of triangle 4. Totally don’t get it, hubby doesn’t get it. Help please.
Hi Sandy,
Thanks for reaching out! For Attached Triangle 2 you will orient the piece with the right side facing you, and so that the cast-on edge of Triangle 1 is vertical, then pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 1. Once you have knit that you will once again orient the piece so that the right side facing you, and turn the blanket upside down so that the top edge is now the bottom edge, then you will pick up and knit another 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 4 of the Square indicated in the pattern, for you this would be the 1st square!
So basically you are picking up one edge of one square, and then the other edge of another square giving you the triangle!
I hope this clears things up, please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
So frustrating! Ok— the instructions say pick up and knit 45 stitches along edge of “triangle 1”. Is this triangle 1, square 2?
After turning counter clockwise, do i pick up stitches on triangle 4 Square 1?
If so, It would appear that knitting back and forth from this point would create a new triangle at the bottom of triangle 4, Square 1. That would not be triangle 2, square 2 according to the chart.
Hi Ann,
I’m sorry to hear that this pattern has been frustrating! I’d be happy to help clarify your questions. Are you working on Triangle 2 of Square 2 right now? If so, then yes, the instruction to pick up stitches would refer to Triangle 1 of Square 2!
I think there may be some confusion in the previous comment and reply between the Attached Triangle 2 instructions and the Basic Triangle 2 instructions. In Square 2, you will be working Basic Triangle 2, not Attached Triangle 2. You will not need to turn anything counterclockwise or attach anything to a Triangle 4! You will only begin working the Attached Triangle 2s on the second (and subsequent) rows of squares.
I hope this helps clarify things, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili
Aha! Thank you for clarifying! I see the difference now between “basic” and “attached. “. Thanks so much.
Hi! I have knit the first square successfully but am totally lost as to how to start the first attached square. I have cast on the 45 stitches but don’t know where I am supposed to cast on the next 45…the edge is too long for 45, so do I pick up and knit only halfway up? It’s driving me crazy, please help!
Hi Charlotte,
Thanks for reaching out! Since each triangle is made with 45 stitches on each side there should be exactly 45 stitches for you to pick up along each edge! If you are finding that the edges of your triangle is longer than 45 stitches, my best guess is that you may have added additional stitches leaving your edges too long or your are attempting to pick up stitches in the wrong area! Just to clarify so I can better assist you, have you finished the first square and are staring the second square or have you finished the first attached triangle of square 1 and are still working on square 1?
Looking forward to your response!
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
I’m in the same boat. I cast on 45 and picked up 45 stitches for Attached Triangle 1. I knit the set up row and placed the market. Row 1 has me confused I knit to the marker, etc. When I turn the work am I to continue to the rest of the cast on stitches, or are they hanging out by themselves? Or am I to continue across?
It seems that this creates one big triangle, with decreases up the middle.
Please help.
Lori
Hi Lori,
Thanks for reaching out. It actually sounds like you’re doing everything correctly! Once you turn the work on Row 1, you can ignore the rest of the stitches you haven’t knit yet. These stitches, positioned along the edge of the previous square, will be picked up 1 by 1, each time you repeat Row 1. This creates a line of decreases up the side of the attached triangle, where it’s connected to the previous square. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you!
Hi! I am stuck on square 5…I am a left handed knitter…does it make a difference following the pattern because I’m left handed? Fir some reason I cannot attach triangle 1 to triangle 4 of square 2! I was able to follow the directions for square 4 but now I’m totally stuck! Any support would be appreciated!
Hi Cheryl,
Thanks for writing in! There shouldn’t be any differences with the pattern for left handed knitters! This square overall isn’t much different from the others, so if you were able to complete the last square, this one wont be too different. Basically for Triangle 2 you will begin with Color A and will follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, but you will be picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 2, this will be the connecting factor between square 5 to square 2. So I think the issue may be that you are actually not connecting triangle 1 to triangle 4 of square 2, but you are connecting triangle 2 to triangle 4 from square 2!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am having trouble with square three attached triangle one. It says”repeat Rows 1 & 2 until 36 stitches remain on right needle after FINAL ROW 1.” This is the first time I have seen the terminology “final row 1.” I have redone this triangle 3 times and it doesn’t looks right. The color work isn’t blending as seamlessly as it did for me on previous square. What exactly does final row one mean? Does it mean finish row one, turn your work and start or do I go ahead and finish row two out so I am starting color on the correct side?
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing in! That is a bit confusing! I believe you should work rows 1 and 2 a final time so that you are switching colors on the right side of the fabric just as you have with the rest of the color change rows!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi, I am on square 4, triangle 2, and am trying to follow the instructions for attached triangle 2 – but I am totally lost as to what stitches to pick up – do I pick up from the long flat base of triangle 4 of square 3? I managed first 3 squares without any trouble. Thanks
Hi Hazel,
Thanks for reaching out! For triangle 2 of square 4, you will be picking up the stitches along the base of triangle 4 of square 3. This will be at the only exposed edge of the triangle (keep in mind the other two edges of that triangle are knit into the center of square 3!)
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Is there any reason why on square 4 triangle 2 we couldn’t just knit a basic triangle 2?
Hi Emmie,
Thanks for writing in. The reason you’ll need to knit an Attached Triangle 2 in Sqaure 4 is because this triangle is attached to the edge of Triangle 4 of Square 3! If you take a look at the LAYOUT SCHEMATIC for the blanket, you can get a better sense of which triangles are attached where. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I’m sorry if this question has already been answered. How could I adapt this pattern if I wanted to make this blanket in a single color? Thank you!
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for reaching out! If you wanted to make this blanket in a single color, the only adjustment you’d need to make would be to work with that same color throughout the pattern! You wouldn’t need to make any changes to the pattern itself.
Warmly,
Kelsey
How important is row gauge in this pattern? I am getting the same stitch gauge, but my row gauge is off.
Thanks!
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest blocking your swatch and then re-measuring your gauge, we determine all of our gauge measurements based on the blocked piece, so once you do that, you will be able to tell if you are closer to the gauge of the pattern or if you need to make any adjustments!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Can you suggest a color palette for a baby girl blanket in worsted twist yarn?
Thank you
Hi Ester,
Thanks for reaching out! I would love to recommend a palette for you, I suggest using Heirloom White as the main color and then using Mountain Rose, Purple Foxglove, and Buganvilla Pink for the accent colors!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I have just completed square 1 and do not understand how to proceed to square 2 triangle 1.
Why would I cast on 45 and then pick up the 45 stitches along the edge of triangle 3?
Can you clarify how to proceed with square 2 triangle 1
Thanks.
Marka
Hi Marka,
Thanks for writing in! You’ll need to cast on these extra stitches for that triangle specifically because of the way you have to join to square one. The first 45 stitches will be the set up for one edge of the triangle, while the ones you pick up will just align with the right side of square 1 on triangle 3 and ultimately attach the two squares. Once you get to the second triangle of square 2 it’ll be just like your previous triangles and won’t require that extra step.
Once you have 90 stitches total you’ll continue following the instructions for Attached Triangle 1, not the Basic Triangle, and complete the set up row: Set-Up Row (wrong side): K47, place marker (pm), knit to end of row.
Please let us know if any part of that is still confusing!
All the best,
Zha Zha
Can you help with Triangle 2 Square 2.
When you say to turn the blanket upside down and pick up stitches along the top edge of Triangle 4. Can you clarify which is Triangle 4. I see someone asked this question about but it is still not clear to me. When I am looking at Square 2 triangle one, is the first pick up instruction from the tip of the triangle up to the the top of the blanket and then what????
Hi Marka,
Thanks for reaching out! For square 2, triangle 2 you will be following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 2. You will start out with the right side of Triangle 1 from square 2 facing you. You will want it oriented so that the cast-on edge is vertical. From there you will pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 1. Once you pick up the 45 stitches you will work row 1 by knitting to the end of the row!
I hope this clears things up, happy knitting!
Gianna
The most confusing pattern I have ever knitted! My last project was a pattern translated from Norwegian to English. The accompanying videos were in Norwegian, no subtitles. That pattern was still easier to follow than this one. I’m stuck on square 2, triangle 3. I’m ready to pull my hair out and frog.
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! This pattern can be a bit confusing due to the layout, but once you have the steps down it is quite easy! For Square 2 Triangle 3 you will be following Basic Triangle 3 for the instructions. You will start off with the right side of the piece facing you and the picked-up edge oriented vertically. From there you will pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 2. Once you have the stitches picked up you will work Rows 1 and 2 (listed under Basic Triangle 3) until 1 stitch remains.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Hello! I’m very confused by square 4, triangle 3. I have picked up 45 stitches on the top edge of triangle 2, the only free edge of triangle 2 (so the needle is now pointing to the outer edge of the blanket, I started picking up from the “centre” of the square so that the raw edge would be on the wrong side. I cannot seem to wrap my brain around how to get to now turn it 90 degrees and get triangle 1 to pick up 45 more stitches bc my needle is now facing the wrong way! Thank you
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for reaching out! I think you may be looking at the wrong set of instructions! For Square 4, Triangle 3 you will be following the instructions for Basic Triangle 3, for that, you will want to orient your work with the right side of the piece facing you and picked-up edge oriented vertically, you will then pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 2.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Omigosh. Of course you are right, I was looking at the ATTACHED triangle 3. *blush. Thank you for your quick response 😊
Hello!
I was wondering if you get the Eggshell Blue colour in again.
Thanks
Hi Tina,
Thanks for reaching out! Eggshell Blue should be back in stock within the month! I would suggest adding your email on the product page under the Eggshell Blue color, from there we will send you an email as soon as it is back in stock!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thanks Gianna!
I could not find the Eggshell blue in the drop down list.
Also do you get new colours in?
Cheers Tina
Hi Tina,
Are you perhaps referring to Birds Egg Blue? If so, then that color is indeed in stock!
All the best,
Lili
Could I knit this with good wool? Also it’s so pretty but the comments make the pattern sound really tricky. I’m an experienced knitter. How difficult?
Thanks.
Suzi Kaplan
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! Good Wool is a bit thinner than Linen Quill Worsted, so you would need to adjust the gauge/needle size a bit. I would suggest starting out by working a gauge swatch on an appropriately sized needle, from there you can determine your adjustments.
I would consider this an intermediate pattern, so if you are an experienced knitter I don’t think you will have any problems, but if you encounter any issues you can reach out to us on here or directly to one of our customer service members at customerservice@purlsoho.com, we are happy to help!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
Good afternoon- I’m confused on the k2tog, slip1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Is this a typo? Should this be a sl, k2tog, and psso?
Hi Emmie,
Thanks for reaching out. The instructions “K2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle” are written in this way because this is how the attached square “becomes attached” to the other square! It’s slightly different from what you might expect to see from a decrease that involves a psso, but that’s because it’s functioning in a different way. I can confirm that the pattern is correct as written though!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili,
I had exactly the same question. Is there a video or a instruction on how to do that? When I do it, it does not look good. And it seems not to work.
Thanks for your help!
Tina
Hi Tina,
Thanks for writing in as well! I’m sorry to say that we don’t yet have a video tutorial for this stitch sequence. However, if you’re concerned that your project isn’t looking correct, then feel free to send us photos of your work so far at customerservice@purlsoho.com! That way, we can visualize what’s going on and troubleshoot further.
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
I’m doing Triangle 2 of Square 6; it is an attached triangle 2. Because the first two rows are knit in the background color, I’m getting a blip of the background color as the color D section attaches to the 4th triangle of Square 1. It doesn’t look good.
I’m wondering why this triangle instructs to use the background color for the first 2 rows. I didn’t have this problem before when i did Attached Triangle 2’s. Thanks for your help.
Hi Jane,
Thanks for reaching out. The reason that Square 6 begins with 2 rows in Color A is because Triangle 2 is made up of multiple colors, but the first 2 rows can only be worked in one color at a time. We picked Color A, rather than Color D, because it matched the color of the triangle it’s being attached to (Triangle 4 of Square 1)!
I believe the little blips of color you’re seeing are normal, and they’ll get less noticeable as the tension evens out after knitting more rows. But if you’re still concerned about it, feel free to send along a photo of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com, and we’ll be happy to take a look!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I am working on square 1, triangle 4. The seam connecting triangle 4 to triangle 1 looks sloppy! I am knitting to the last stitch, slipping that stitch knitwise to the right needle, picking up the next stitch from triangle 1, and passing the slipped stitch over it, but I don’t like how it’s turning out!
Hi Veronica,
Thanks for reaching out. This seam does indeed look different from the other seams! It will look a bit odd for the first couple rows, but it will even out as you knit more rows. It sounds like you’re doing the steps correctly, but if you’re still concerned with how your seam is looking after a few more rows, feel free to send a photo of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com so that we can visualize the issue!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lilli,– I did pull it out and start over–I decided to carry the yarn to the back of the work prior to slipping the last stitch. It seems to look a bit better so far.
Veronica
Hi
I am working on Square 6, Triangle 2. I am very confused and have frogged 3 times. The instructions sat “With Color A, follow Set-up Row instructions for Triangle 4 from Square 1, Cut Color A.
1. How does Triangle 1 for Square 6 get attached to the square if I am to start at the Set-up Row?
2. How does Square 6 get attached to Square 1 if I am supposed to start at the Set-up Row?
Thank you
Chris L
Hi Chris,
Thanks for reaching out. It looks like the instructions for Square 6 Triangle 2 actually read, “With Color A, follow the Set-Up Row instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 1. Cut Color A.” For reference, the Set-Up Row for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2 is as follows:
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K47, place marker (pm), knit to end of row.
This row functions to introduce the new yarn and create the live stitches! You’ll begin attaching Triangle 2 from Square 6 to Triangle 4 from Square 1 on the following row, Row 1. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you for the clarification. Unfortunately, I still have questions:
1. In the instructions for Attached Triangle 2, do I ignore the first two lines:
“With right side facing you, orient the cast-on edge of Triangle 1….” and
“With the right side facing you, turn the blanket upside down…”
2. If I do ignore those, on which triangle am I K47?
I have absolutely loved this project up to this point. But I have come to a screeching halt.
Kind regards,
Chris Lindauer
Hi Chris,
Thanks for checking back in about this! I think I misinterpreted your previous question a bit, but you raise a good point. You will definitely need to work the first two lines of ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2 for this triangle in SQAURE 6 before working the Set-Up Row. I’ve passed along your question to our design team as well, and they’ll look into changing the instructions here to make this clearer!
All the best,
Lili
I also struggled with this because the pattern makes it sound like you should cut yarn A AFTER picking up stitches along triangle 4 of Square one before the wrong side set up row. I kept hesitating because pattern says to always change color on the right side…needless to say I knit it a few times before trusting my gut about changing on the right side only to avoid the blips.
Overall I have really enjoyed knitting this. I love the challenge of the joining and the results of how it seams together. I will be knitting it again!
Hello, the attached Triangle One indicates to knit to marker, slip marker, and continue. The other attached triangles indicate: Knit to marker, k2tog, slip 1 (etc). Should there be a slip marker between knit to marker and K2tog? Thanks!
Hi Alison,
Thank you so much for reaching out, and yes, you will be slipping your marker between the Knit to marker and K2tog! The pattern in this section reads as follows: Row 1 (right side): Knit to marker, slip marker (sm), k2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off the needle. Turn work. [2 stitches decreased] For row 2, you will be removing the marker and placing it again.
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
I made this blanket in Tulip cotton. What is the best way to block it? I was thinking to machine wash cold/gentle and shape/ dry flat.
Also, I have 4 skeins of one color left over. Can I return them?
Hi Veronica,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m so happy to hear you’ve completed your Windy Day Blanket! The recommended care instructions for Tulip Cotton are to machine wash cold and tumble dry low, but you can lay your blanket flat to dry too if you prefer.
You are also more than welcome to return yarn to us as long as it is unwound and in its original condition. You can read more about our return policy here!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly
Hi there! I am working on Square 6, Triangle 2. I am super confused about which colour to use for picking up stitches and when to switch colour. Should all 90 stitches be picked up in Colour A? And is the set-up row also knit in Colour A? Do you then move to Colour D when you start Row 1 for the first time? Thank you for any guidance you can provide. I am really enjoying this project so far!!
Hi Sarah!
Thank you for writing in! The first triangle is cast on with the color you will be using for that triangle (Color A), and then the next triangle is created by picking up stitches (with Color B) along the edge of the first triangle. Whenever you pick up stitches, you will be doing so with the color you will be using for the next triangle. We also recommend always picking up stitches on the right side of the blanket, so that the color join seams are consistently placed along the wrong side of the blanket, too!
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi there,
thank you for this beautiful and engaging pattern. I am stuck at Square 3 Triangle 1. When I am about to start Color C, will this be done at the beginning of a right side row or a wrong side row? I understand it like the latter but then there would be the ‚bad‘ side of the color change showing on the right side?
Thanks for your help & greetings from Germany,
Kerstin
Hi Kerstin,
Thanks for your question! The color change row between colors A and D on square 3 will be knit on the right side of the fabric. After repeating rows 1 and 2 until 36 stitches remain, you will knit the next right side row with color D.
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any further questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hi Carly,
I also have a question about this section and when to change colors. I think I’m confused on when to count the 36 stitches (and which stitches we’re counting). The instructions say “until 36 stitches remain on right needle after final Row 1.” But is that 36 stitches on the right needle before turning (where we’re working the stitches that were cast on) or the right needle after turning (where the stitches that were picked up live)?
Thanks so much for your help!
Hi Carly,
Thank you for writing in! In a previous version of this pattern, we had written the instruction as follows:
With Color A, following the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 1, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 36 stitches remain on right needle after final Row 1. Cut Color A.
This was slightly more clear, since it indicated that you were counting your stitches after finishing a Row 1 (so that your stitches are still divided by needle), then knitting the final repeat of Row 2, and then cutting Color A. We’ve added this back to the updated pattern in order to avoid confusion!
So as you knit, I’d recommend counting the number of stitches you have on your right needle after finishing a Row 1. Once you have 36 stitches, then it will be time to knit one more row (Row 2), and then cut your yarn! Alternatively, you could count the repeats of Rows 1 and 2–you’ll need to repeat these rows a total of 8 times (so, 7 more times after the initial time through them) before switching colors.
Hope this helps clear things up and improve the pattern!
Warmly,
Gavriella
Hello
I am very interested to make this blanket but tried to order the yarn. Unfortunately I couldn’t find the dandelion yellow or the super orange 😟
Can you recommend other color combinations to replace these two colors or when these two colors will be available 🤔
Thanks and looking forward to your response 😊
Hi Mayling,
Thanks for writing in. I’m so sorry to say that we’ve discontinued Linen Quill Worsted in Dandelion Yellow and Super Orange. While we loved these colors, not everybody else felt the same way, so we’ve had to make the sad decision to stop producing them. We hope you can understand!
As alternatives, I think that the colors Red Poppy and Turmeric Yellow would still fit the color palette very nicely. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi there- do you have instructions for the I-cord border? Thanks much!
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for reaching out. I think that adding an i-cord border to this pattern is a great idea! If you’d like to do so, I’d recommend taking a look at our Attached I-Cord tutorial. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Just getting started on my 2nd Windy Day blanket – but I’m struggling with the 4th triangle in the first square. I saw two other questions about this problem – but didn’t see an answer. I’m picking up the 45 stitches on the top edge of the 3rd triangle as instructed. When I start picking up one stitch on the 1st triangle at the end of each row 1, I’m getting a very messy join. The “pass over” stitch is loose and there is a “bump” running along the join between triangle one and four. Do you know what might be causing this? Thanks so much for your help.
Hi Jan,
Thanks for reaching out. This seam does indeed look different from the other seams, since it’s created with a completely different technique! It will look a bit odd for the first couple rows, but it will even out as you knit more rows. It sounds like you’re doing the steps correctly, but if you’re still concerned with how your seam is looking after a few more rows, feel free to send a photo of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com so that we can visualize the issue! We also have a photo tutorial of this process in our Knit Four Points Blanket pattern, if you’d like to check that out.
All the best,
Lili
Thanks so much!
My daughter would really like me to make this blanket for her high school graduation this spring. I am concerned it is over my skill level. Picking up stitches is a new skill for me, but I am willing to learn don’t want to be frustrated by the process however. Would you recommed maybe the Prism pattern as a better first step in this level of knitting?
Hi Jill,
Thanks for reaching out. We always want to encourage people to discover that learning new techniques enriches the process of making! Since picking up stitches is a new skill for you, I’d recommend taking a look at our tutorial on it and practicing with some scrap yarn. Once you feel more comfortable with this technique, then the Windy Day Blanket (and the Prism Blanket) might not feel as daunting of a project!
All the best,
Lili
How do I start triangle 1 on square 4?
Hi Pam,
Thanks for your comment! To being Triangle 1 on Square 4, just follow the instructions for Basic Triangle 1 and knitting with Color A! These instructions are located under the Basic Square Instructions. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
Hi, I’m working on the first Attached Triangle 1 and I’m confused by the instructions for row 1. Do I really slip an open stitch off the needle? It unravels immediately if I do. Please, I would be so grateful if you could clarify! Thank you, Sara
Hi Sara,
Thanks for reaching out. On this row, you will be passing a stitch over another stitch and off the needle. It’s actually the same exact procedure you do when binding off! So it will not unravel, since it’s locked around that other stitch it was passed over. You can view a demonstration of a very similar technique in our Join As You Knit tutorial. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
I am knitting square three and the last triangle seems to be bigger than the others.
I read once in this thread comments that you recommended to go a size down on a needle but I could not find that comment anymore.
Is that true? Or does it depend on how consistently I am knitting.
Thanks for your help!
Cheers Tina
Hi Tina,
That’s an interesting problem to encounter! Normally, we would recommend using smaller needles if your gauge is too big, but it sounds like your gauge has been consistent throughout the pattern, and it’s only gotten bigger on this latest triangle. This may point to something else going on that would require a different solution! Would you be able to send a photo of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com? That way, we can visualize exactly what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili!
I have Square 1 complete, but I’m so confused by attached triangle 1. I cast on 45 stitches and picked up 45, then when I followed the instructions, I think maybe I was just knitting the part I was supposed to be ignoring? Because I just got a long rectangle! Do you “work” the cast on stitches and ignore the picked up stitches (this is what I did) OR do you “work” the picked up stitches and ignore the cast on? I just don’t get how this makes a triangle! Any info would be helpful! If there’s any way you guys could create a video tutorial for this, it would be so, so helpful!!
Hi Zoe,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you may be missing the k2tog decrease on Row 1 of Attached Triangle 1. This is an important stitch because it decreases the stitch count by 1 every other row, which creates the triangular shape. The way you described what you’re doing otherwise (working the coast-on stitches and ignoring the picked-up stitches) sounds correct, so I think once you start working the decrease you should start to see the triangular shape appear!
If you’re still not seeing what you expect, then I’d recommend sending a picture of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com. That way, we’ll be able to visualize exactly what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
I have bight coloured yarn left from the library blanket and would like to use the dual colour of Linen Quill and Line Weight as the colour accents in the pattern. Can you suggest another wool for the main colour that would be the appropriate weight to use with that double yarn
Hi Rebecca,
That’s a great way to use up your leftover yarn! If you’d like to match the background color in the original design, then I’d recommend using Linen Quill in Pale Oats held together with Line Weight in Heirloom White. This way you’ll also maintain a uniform texture across the blanket, since all the yarn will match!
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
How can I make this throw a bigger size? Is it possible?
Best wishes,
Chrysi
Hi Chrysi,
Thanks for reaching out! This pattern can be a bit tricky to modify the size of, but it’s definitely possible. The easiest way to do so, and still maintain the same exact proportions of all the color sections, would be to use a thicker yarn and knit the blanket at a larger gauge.
If you want to stick with the same yarn and gauge though, there are two other options: First, you could add extra squares along each edge. You’d need to either repeat the color sequence of a previous square for this or create you own though, but this is a good option if you’re feeling extra creative! Second, you could cast on more stitches for each triangle, but this takes a lot of extra calculating, and I wouldn’t recommend it unless you’ve had a lot of experience modifying patterns in the past.
I hope this helps give you some options for your blanket project!
All the best,
Lili
Happy new Year☺️ Love the windy blanket❤️ If I want to make it 15 or 18 squares long, how should I proceed? Thank you só much!
Hi BeeMaia,
Thank you so much for writing in! I’d just like to confirm the dimensions of the yardage you are requesting. Are you looking to make the full blanket with 15 squares or a total column of 15 squares long? Once you share that information with me, we can help get you a rough estimate of the yarn you would need!
All the best,
Gavriella
Thank you so much for your care Gavriella ☺️ I was wondering about a 15 (3×5) or 18 (3×6) square blanket… I want to knit it bigger than the biggest size of the pattern. My question is not regarding the yardage; my concern is about the “attached” vs “basic” triangles to knit the extra squares, as I do not quite follow the reason behind knitting the basic or attached triangles to make the full square.
Thank you so much,
Ana
Hi BeeMaria,
Thanks for that extra information! The first set of triangles are named ‘Basic Triangles’ as they set up the foundation column of the blanket. In this case, if you want to make the blanket taller, you will simply knit an additional ‘Basic Triangle’ to lengthen your project. The Basic Triangles are worked to create your first long strip of squares before moving on to the ‘Attached Triangle’ section where you will be knitting on multiple sides of each square rather than just the tops or bottoms. I hope this helps clear up how to complete your blanket but please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Dear Gavriella, this is cristal clear! Thank you so much for your care in the response☺️
Hi, I’d like to make a crib sized blanket for a baby girl. Can you recommend a washable yarn and colors using this pattern? Thank you.
Hi Sharon,
We are so happy to hear you will be making a new gift for a little one! I would recommend checking out Anzula For Better or Worsted or our Serif Cotton yarn which would also bring amazing texture to your project! I hope this help but let us know if you have any more questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi,
I just completed the crib size blanket and I was wondering how to secure the knots and weave in the yarn ends that it shouldn’t open.
Hi CS,
That’s a great question! You can see our in-depth tutorial for weaving in your ends here. I occasionally find it helpful to felt my ends as well for extra security after weaving them in, especially for larger projects like blankets! I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi! Is it correct that when you pick up and knit to join the triangles that you get a prominent ridge on the wrong side of the blanket? My join has quite a ridge – so I wanted to check if this is correct?
I tried to knit separate triangles and joined them together using mattress stitch (sewn), which also gives a ridge on the wrong side but it looks neater.
I will probably stick with joining each via sewing unless your pick up and join method is NOT supposed to have a ridge on the wrong side. Then I just need to figure out what I am doing wrong! 😉
Hi Kate,
Thank you for asking! It sounds like you are right on track, the ridge is created on the wrong side of the fabric as you join. If you find that sewing the pieces works better for you, we definitely say go for it!
All the best,
Gavriella