Socks, yes, but ordinary socks, no… These are our Very Long Socks! Wear them on snowy hikes or lounging in bed; with skirts and dresses, on bare legs, over tights, or with boots of all heights; over-the-knee uncuffed, or just-under-the-knee cuffed.
Very Long Socks follow a classic top-down pattern, knit from cuff to toes in a 2×2 rib that feels like a hug, not a squeeze. These socks have a tailored fit and a structural integrity brought on by the neat decreases that run down the back of the leg like pretty winter branches.
We knit these socks in our hand-dyed Posy because its superwash merino, cashmere, and nylon blend is a total sock trifecta. Super soft to the touch, durable mile after mile, and machine-washable, Posy checks all the boxes. Choose from 18 lush colors and cast on!
Designed for Purl Soho by Jake Canton.
Materials
- 3 (3, 4, 4) skeins of Purl Soho’s Posy, 75% superwash merino, 15% cashmere, and 10% nylon. Each skein is approximately 318 yards/100 grams; approximately 630-645 (880-900, 1015-1045, 1175-1185) total yards required. We used Teal Twilight.
- A set of US 0 double pointed needles
- A stitch marker
NOTE: If making the Junior size for a Woman’s US 5 foot length or smaller, you will only need 2 skeins of Posy.
Gauge
- 50 stitches and 48 rows = 4 inches in 2×2 Rib, unstretched
- 28 stitches = 4 inches in 2×2 Rib, stretched
- 34 stitches and 50 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
Junior (Adult Small, Adult Medium, Adult Large)
- Cuff Circumference: 6¾ (8, 8¾, 9¼ ) inches unstretched, comfortably stretching to 12 (14½, 15½, 16½) inches
- Foot Circumference: 5¼ (6¾, 7½, 8½) inches unstretched, comfortably stretching to 6¾ (8¾, 9¾, 10¾) inches
- Foot Length: Adjustable
- Leg Length from top of Heel to top of Cuff (unfolded): 18 (21, 21¾, 23¼) inches
SAMPLE: Our sample is the Adult Small, Woman’s US 7 size.
Note
Slip all slipped stitches purlwise unless the pattern indicates otherwise.
Pattern
Cuff
Cast 84 (100, 108, 116) stitches onto 3 double pointed needles. [Needles A and C: 28 (34, 36, 38) stitches; Needle B: 28 (32, 36, 40) stitches]
Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Round 1: K1, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2, k1.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 9 (10, 10, 11) inches from cast-on edge.
Leg
Round 1: K1, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, purl 2 together (p2tog), k1. [1 stitch decreased]
Round 2: K1, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, knit 2 together (k2tog). [1 stitch decreased]
Round 3: K1, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p2, k1, k2tog. [1 stitch decreased]
Round 4: K1, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p2, k2tog. [1 stitch decreased]
Round 5: K1, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2, k1.
Repeat Round 5 eight (11, 12, 13) more times.
Round 6: K1, p2tog through the back loop (tbl), *k2, p2 repeat from * to last stitch, k1. [1 stitch decreased]
Round 7: Slip slip knit (ssk), *k2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. [1 stitch decreased]
Round 8: Ssk, k1, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2, k1. [1 stitch decreased]
Round 9: Ssk, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2, k1. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Round 5 nine (12, 13, 14) more times.
Repeat from Round 1 three more times. [52 (68, 76, 84) stitches total; Needles A and C: 12 (18, 20, 22) stitches; Needle B: 28 (32, 36, 40) stitches]
Heel Flap
Set-Up Row 1 (right side): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (4, 4, 5) times, p0 (0, 2, 0), turn work so wrong side is facing you.
Set-Up Row 2 (wrong side): K0 (0, 2, 0), [p2, k2] 6 (8, 9, 10) times, p2 (2, 0, 2). NOTE: These 26 (34, 38, 42) stitches are the beginning of the Heel Flap, and for this section, you will work back and forth on just these 26 (34, 38, 42) stitches.
Arrange stitches so that 26 (34, 38, 42) Heel Flap stitches are on one needle, and remaining stitches are on hold on other two needles: 13 (17, 19, 21) stitches each.
Work following rows back and forth, turning work between each row…
Row 1: *Slip 1 (see Note) with yarn in back (wyib), k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: Slip 1 with yarn in front (wyif), purl to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 twelve (17, 18, 19) more times
Turn The Heel
Row 1 (right side): K15 (19, 23, 25), ssk, k1, turn work so wrong side is facing you and there are 17 (21, 25, 27) stitches on left needle and 8 (12, 12, 14) stitches on right needle.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn work. [16 (20, 20, 22) stitches on left needle and 8 (12, 16, 18) stitches on right needle]
Row 3: Slip 1, knit to 1 stitch before gap, ssk (with stitch before gap and stitch after gap), k1, turn work.
Row 4: Slip 1, purl to 1 stitch before gap, p2tog, p1, turn work.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all Heel stitches have been worked. [16 (20, 24, 26) Heel stitches remain]
Gusset
Knit across 16 (20, 24, 26) Heel stitches with new needle (now called Needle A).
With Needle A, pick up and knit 13 (18, 19, 20) stitches along Heel Flap. [29 (38, 43, 46) stitches on Needle A]
With new needle (now called Needle B), k0 (0, 2, 0), [p2, k2] 6 (8, 9, 10) times, p2 (2, 0, 2).
With new needle (now called Needle C), pick up and 13 (18, 19, 20) stitches along Heel Flap.
With Needle C, knit 8 (10, 12, 13) stitches from Needle A. [68 (90, 100, 108) total stitches; Needles A and C: 21 (28, 31, 33) stitches; Needle B: 26 (34, 38, 42) stitches]
Round 1: For Needle A, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1; for Needle B, k0 (0, 2, 0), [p2, k2] 6 (8, 9, 10) times, p2 (2, 0, 2); for Needle C, k1, ssk, knit to end of needle. [2 stitches decreased]
Round 2: For Needle A, knit to end of needle; for Needle B, k0 (0, 2, 0), [p2, k2] 6 (8, 9, 10) times, p2 (2, 0, 2); for Needle C, knit to end of needle.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until 52 (68, 76, 84) stitches remain. [Needles A and C: 13 (17, 19, 21) stitches; Needle B: 26 (34, 38, 42) stitches]
Foot
Round 1: For Needle A, knit to end of needle; for Needle B, k0 (0, 2, 0), [p2, k2] 6 (8, 9, 10) times, p2 (2, 0, 2); for Needle C, knit to end of needle.
Repeat Round 1 until Foot measures 1 1/4 (1 3/4, 2 1/4, 2 1/2) inches less than desired final length, measuring from back edge of Heel. Here’s how long you’ll want the final Foot length…
Final Foot Length
Junior Sizes
US size 1Y (European 32) = 7¾ inches
US size 2Y (33) = 8 inches
US size 3Y (34) = 8½ inches
US size 4Y (36) = 8¾ inches
US size 5Y (37) = 9 inches
US size 6Y (38) = 9⅜ inches
US size 7Y (39) = 9⅝ inches
Women’s Sizes
US size 4 shoe (European 35) = 8⅜ inches
US size 5 shoe (36) = 8⅝ inches
US size 6 shoe (37) = 9 inches
US size 7 shoe (38) = 9¼ inches
US size 8 shoe (39) = 9⅝ inches
US size 9 shoe (40) = 10 inches
US size 10 shoe (41) = 10⅜ inches
Men’s Sizes
US size 7 shoe (European 39) = 9⅝ inches
US size 8 shoe (40) = 10 inches
US size 9 shoe (42) = 10½ inches
US size 10 shoe (43) = 10¾ inches
US size 11 shoe (44) = 11 inches
US size 12 shoe (45) = 11½ inches
US size 13 shoe (46) = 11¾ inches
Toe
Set-Up Round: Knit to end of round.
Round 1: For Needle A, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1; for Needle B, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1; for Needle C, k1, ssk, knit to end of needle. [4 stitches decreased]
Rounds 2–4: Knit to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1–4 one (2, 3, 3) more times. [44 (56, 60, 68) stitches]
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 three (3, 3, 4) times. [32 (44, 48, 52) stitches]
Repeat Round 1 two (3, 4, 5) times. [24 (32, 32, 32) stitches]
With Needle C, knit the 6 (8, 8, 8) stitches from Needle A so there are 12 (16, 16, 16) stitches on each of two needles.
Use Kitchener Stitch to graft the Toe closed.
Finish
Weave in the ends, and then make another sock!
Block both socks by soaking them in room temperature water, squeezing out the excess water, and laying them flat to dry. To wash socks, either machine wash cold and tumble dry low, or hand wash with gentle soap in a basin of room temperature water.
PRINT
You lovely people! Just the sock pattern I have been looking for! Thank you. SueB
I am really hoping to make these! Could you please clarify the sizing for me? I wear a US women’s size 9. Could you tell me which size I would make? TIA!!!
Hi Amy,
Thanks for reaching out! Since the length of the foot of the sock is adjustable, you will need to measure around the largest part of your calf and around the ball of your foot and compare your measurements to the comfortably stretched measurements given in our sizing guide. This will allow you to pick the size that will fit best around your foot and leg, and you can then adjust the foot length size to match your foot following the instructions in the pattern.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I don’t know how to knit – would a slip stitch work ?
Hi Daisy,
Thanks for reaching out! We do not have a crocheted version of these socks, and I don’t think slip stitches would be the best stitch to substitute, since they are quite un-stretchy, but we will keep your request in mind for the future!
Best,
Julianna
Can these be knit toe up?
Hi Jenni,
Great question! You could knit these toe up but you would need to rework the pattern quite a lot to do so. You would need to rework the heel section as well as the leg. It could take some swatching and trial and error but if you are up for the design challenge, it could be a fun one!
Best,
Cassy
I love these! Would it be possible to get the pattern written for circular needles? I prefer to make 2 at a time so I don’t end up with one sock syndrome 😉
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! Although we don’t have instructions for knitting this pattern using magic loop or two circulars, if you are familiar with those techniques it should be quite easy to adapt to your usual methods! You will have to move stitches around a bit to accommodate the heel turn and gusset, but for the majority of the sock you will simply divide the stitches in half either between the two circulars or on each half of the magic loop.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I’m curious about calf circumferance, which I didn’t see addressed in the pattern. I have muscular calves, and commercial above-the-ankle socks of any height are tight, dig in at the cuff and leave marks, or just fall down. Your model looks very slender compared to me! Any thoughts about adapting this pattern?
Hi Margaret,
Great question! The cuff measurements given in the sizing measurements do refer to the circumference of the cuff at the cast on or top of the sock, so you can see if the stretched measurement will be comfortable on your calf. If you need to either pair a larger cuff size with a smaller foot size or add more stitches beyond our largest cuff, I think that is very doable! You will have to work more decreases and decrease more frequently to fit them all in before beginning the heel flap so that you end up with the correct number of stitches for your chosen foot size by the time you start the heel flap.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello everyone, I love this new pattern but was wondering: do the number of stitches on the leg take into account (or is it possible to explian how we could fit it in…) the larger width of the calf? Let me re-phrase this: is it possible to write a pattern for socks for people with bigger calves? Is it for us just to add sitches at “some ” point in the pattern? Thanks for helping me with this. J. Denault
Hi Jocelyne,
Thanks for reaching out! The cuff measurements given in the sizing measurements do refer to the circumference of the cuff at the cast on or top of the sock, so you can see if the stretched measurement will be comfortable on your calf. If you need to either pair a larger cuff size with a smaller foot size or add more cast on stitches beyond our largest cuff size, I think that is very doable! You will have to work more decreases and decrease more frequently to fit them all in before beginning the heel flap so that you end up with the correct number of stitches for your chosen foot size by the time you start the heel flap.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am going to make a pair and stop at the ankle to have tapered legwarmers!
Cool! My question is more for the Post…. Is this fingering weight? It sounds like it’ll make a very long lasting pill free sweater?
Hi Yoshiko,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, our Posy is fingering weight and quite suitable for sweaters! I think it would be lovely for our Lightweight Raglan Pullover or Paint Pail Pullover.
Best,
Julianna
Oh my, these are truly awesome! I love long socks that you can pull all the way up to the knee, so happy that you released this free pattern. Thank you! There is definitely a pair of very long socks in my knitting future.
The Junior shoe sizes equivalents in European sizes are off … 22/23 5.73″ 14.5 cm … 24/25 6.13″ … 26/27 6.72″ 17 cm … 28/29 7.11″ 18 cm … 30/31 7.71″ 19.5 cm … 32/33 8.3″ 21 cm … 34/35 8.69″ 22 cm … then you run into adult sizes … the European sizing runs in cm foot length from children’s through to adults … no different tables for juniors or adult sizings.
Hi Ina,
Thanks for reaching out! Our sizes are actually not referring to shoe sizes, but rather are determined by cuff and foot circumference which are given along with the sizing information. Since the foot of these socks can be adjusted to any length, rather than choosing what size to knit according to shoe size, I would suggest measuring your calf and foot circumferences and comparing them to our measurements.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Julianna … y’all wrote the European (Junior) size equivalents … the numbers written are incorrect … those sizes do not exist in European (Junior) sizes … that’s why I sent the note … I do not need the help … the European contingent that follows you would be thus helped. Onward and upward.
Hi Ina,
I’m sorry for the confusion! Although we chose to call the smallest size of our socks “junior,” we did not intend to match any of the sizing to European or American standard shoe sizes, which is probably why they don’t line up! The sizes simply refer to the cuff and foot circumferences in inches and not shoe sizes.
I hope that clarifies things!
Julianna
At almost $30 a skein, and needing 4, that’s quite pricey….can you suggest a comparable yarn that isn’t quite so expensive but work still be a nice wool?
Hello Dauna,
Thank you for reaching out – we hear you! We totally understand that sometimes our yarn suggestions are more of an inspiration than a reality for many people. These particular socks are pricy because of how long they are, so with our other sock yarn options it will be a similar price point. I would check out Tosh Merino Light, this yarn is also hand dyed and super wash wool but doesn’t have the nylon or Cashmere content.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Will they stay up? Do they need to be threaded with elastic?
Hi Laurel,
Thanks for reaching out! We included both unstretched and stretched cuff measurements you so you can choose a size that fits snugly when stretched to prevent saggy socks, but you can certainly add in a thread of elastic for the first few inches if you wish!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
What happened to the print/pdf feature to save a pattern?
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for reaching out! Our print and PDF feature is still available! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments. We have had a few comments lately that some ad and pop-up blockers can interfere with the print function, so if you’re having problems I would suggest disabling any ad blockers.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
What sort of cast on do you suggest to keep them very stretchy at the edge?
Hi Chrissy,
Thanks for reaching out! We used a Long Tail Cast On and found it to be plenty stretchy, but I am also a fan of the German Twisted Cast On, also known as the Norwegian Long Tail Cast On, for sock cuffs. Feel free to use any stretchy cast on that you prefer!
Best,
Julianna
Thank you, Lovely People, for such beautiful yarn and such an elegantly written pattern. I am in awe of your careful attention to every detail, turning what might be an otherwise mundane sock into an art form.
Can the legs be knitted on circular needles?
Hi Wendy,
Great question! You could certainly knit the legs and most of the rest of the sock on a small circumference circular needle, such as an 8 inch Addi Turbo. You could also knit these socks on a longer circular needle using the magic loop method if you are familiar with it.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Beautiful, they might be able to be adapted to make thigh high ballet legwarmers….thank you!
Can you let us know the difficulty level of these socks? I love the simplicity of your Friendly Fair Isle Sweater and wonder how this compares.
Amy
Hi Amy,
Thanks for reaching out! I would consider socks suitable for an advanced beginner or intermediate knitter. Although the heel includes a few more challenging steps such as short rows and picking up stitches, the rest of the sock is simply ribbing with some decreases, so there is plenty of relaxing knitting involved! If you have knitted our Friendly Fair Isle Sweater I think this is well within your capabilities!
Best,
Julianna
So beautiful! I am in awe of this designers attention to detail.
Over the knee socks are just the best especially for women
in that stage of the life who need a bit of AC while wearing
skirts in the winter. Can’t wait to knit them!
Just cast on! This is a perfect project for my new Addi Flexi-Flips
I was so happy to find this pattern the I was looking for, thank you.
I am working the pattern and I am loving it but I think I need an extra set of eyes for my math. I’m knitting adult medium which has me casting on 108 stitches with 3 rounds of 8 sts decreased leaving me 24 decreased stitches in total. That gives me 84 stitches which is the adult large size to start the heel flap. What did I miss??
Hello Debra,
Thank you for reaching out- I’m so happy you are loving it! I see what’s happening- you will be repeating this section 3 MORE times which gives you a total of 4 times and a total of 32 decreased stitches.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi,
I am going to knit these long socks. I am just wondering about the right type of needles to use. You recommend size US 0. Usually I would use size US 4 with this qaulity. It seems to me, that the recommended needle size is extremely small?
Hi Anne,
Thanks for reaching out! Like all fingering weight yarns, the recommended needle sizes for Posy range from a US 00 to US 3. Although many sweater and shawl patterns call for fingering weight yarns on US 4 or even a little larger, for socks, you want to knit at a very tight gauge so that the fabric is dense and durable, which is why we used a US 0. As always, though, since not everyone knits at the same tension, I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch to see which needle size will work for you!
Best,
Julianna
Could the very long socks be knitted in your line weight yarn? Would it be a 2 skein project?
Thank-you for the great pattern!
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for reaching out! I actually would not recommend knitting socks out of Line Weight. Due to the very fine merino we use as well as the construction of the yarn, Line Weight is very delicate and would not stand up to the kind of wear that socks go through – they would develop holes very quickly and may even felt from the friction of walking and wearing. Posy makes a great sock yarn because it has a sturdy, plied construction that wears well, and the superwash merino resists felting. Nylon also adds some extra strength so your socks will last through many wears! If you are looking for an alternative to Posy, both Anzula Squishy and Koigu KPM and KPPPM are great sock yarns.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
This is my first time knitting socks and I’ve gotten to turn the heel. I’m knitting the adult medium size. Following the directions for row 2 the stitch count doesn’t make sense
Hello Chana,
Thank you for reaching out and congrats on your first pair of socks! What about the stitch count is throwing you off? How many stitches are you getting?
I hope I can help!
-Marilla
I end up with 16 on one needle and 20 on the other.
After row 1 I start out with 25 on Left and 12 on Right. For row 2 I work 9 stitches, leaving 16 on Left but reducing one so only add 8 to Right -> 20 on Right.
Hello Chana,
Thank you so much for catching this! You are absolutely correct that the math does not add up. We have corrected the pattern and we thank you for letting us know about this issue. Though our aim is for 100% accuracy, it doesn’t always work out that way, and having a knitting community to help us out is invaluable. Thank you, Chana!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Happy to help, since it’s my first pair of socks I had figured I was missing something and not that the pattern was wrong¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Chana is right. The math is definitely wrong on Row 2 of “Turn the heel”. It says Slip 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn work. If you only purl 5 then the number of stitches on each needle doesn’t work out. I purled until I had the correct number of stitches on the right hand needle and it worked out and the heel turned properly. I think the pattern as written needs a correction
Hello Catherine,
Thank you for all of this fantastic information and feedback! We have corrected the pattern thanks and are so appreciative of your insights on the matter.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
This is still wrong. I think row 2 should be purl 7, not purl 5, otherwise the heel will not be in the centre.
This is my method in full, this is for size Adult Medium
Start with 38 stitches
Row 1: k22, ssk, k1, turn
Row 2: p8, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 3: k9, SSK, k1, turn
Row 4: p10, p2tog, p1, turn
And so on, till
Row 14: p20, p2tog, p2
24 stitches left
Hello Christine,
Thank you so much, again, for taking the time to write this all out. The designer of this pattern is currently working on correcting this issue and it will be fixed soon!
Warmly,
Marilla