Your basket is empty.
Continue Shopping
Boot Socks
If you hate cold feet (if?), you’ll love our Boot Socks! They are warm and cozy, cushion-y and soft. You can wear them with winter boots, rain boots, hiking boots, or with no boots at all just padding around your house!
This pattern is an update of our original Homespun Boot Socks, this time in Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist. One hundred percent merino wool, Worsted Twist has the virtues of being unbelievably soft, all natural, and super pretty. It also comes in over two dozen colors, making little pops at the heels and toes a fun touch!
These Boot Socks are a great place for first time sock knitters to start. While many socks have gauges of 8, 9, even 10 or 11 stitches to the inch, these are just 5 1/2, so you get to all the fun and challenging parts faster. They are a classic top-down construction, with no seams, cushioned heel backs, and ribbing at the calves to keep your socks in place!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
In two adult sizes, our Boot Socks Pattern walks you through the steps of knitting up your very own cozy pair. Happy feet? Yes, please! -Whitney
UPDATE: NOW IN DAILY WOOL WORSTED
OCTOBER 2025
This classic pattern is softer and more lovable than ever in our Daily Wool Worsted, a superwash wool yarn with a smooth spin, incredible softness, and lively bounce. This worsted-weight yarn is machine wash- and dry-able, so your Boot Socks in Daily Wool Worsted will be able to keep up with your feet, whether you’re heading out in winter boots, city boots, rain boots, or just padding around the house. Pick from tons of beautifully heathered colors… Whichever one matches today’s mood!
Pattern designed and written by Purl Soho designer, Whitney Van Nes.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Want to print this pattern? On desktop, find the “print” icon in the right margin, and on mobile, scroll to the end of the pattern for it. Use the on-screen instructions to remove anything you don’t want to print!
Materials
- Main Color (MC): 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist, 100% merino wool. Each skein is 164 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 190 (245) yards required.
- Contrast Color (CC): 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist, 100% merino wool. Approximately 29 (72) yards required.
- A set of US 6 (4mm) double pointed needles
- Purl Soho’s Boot Socks Pattern
We used these colors for our samples…
We used the following colors…
- Small/Medium: MC in Wheat Flour, CC in Honey Pink
- Medium/Large: MC in Heirloom White, CC in Oatmeal Gray
NOTE: Two skeins of one color are enough for a solid pair of socks in either size; and 4 skeins (two colors, two skeins each) are enough for two pairs of socks in either size if you reverse the colors!
Gauge
22 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
Small/Medium (Medium/Large)
Foot Circumference: 7¼ inches (8¾) inches, comfortably stretching several inches
Foot Length: Adjustable
Pattern
Our Boot Socks Pattern is available as a PDF download.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our knitting patterns (including tons of free knitting patterns) and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I just love this pattern and yarn. But I truly do not like dpn’s can it be made in circular size 12? The colors omg this palette is me.
Gracias.
Elsa
Hi Elsa,
Glad you’re liking the palette! I think this can be done a 12″ cord, but am not sure. You might have to do it on an 8″. Either way, give it a shot. You can also do this using the magic loop technique. You can find many tutorials on YouTube for this method.
All the best,
Adam
Hi! I’m working on the turning on the heel (on my first pair of socks) and I’m wondering if the k12 in row 1 should be k11. Otherwise the stitches on the side aren’t coming out even. After a few rows there are 3 extra stitches on 1 end and 3 on the other. Then the flap is lopsided. Should I k11? Thanks!
Hi Emma,
Thanks for the question. You should definitely knit 12 and here is why: out of 20 stitches, you k12, ssk, k1, leaving you with 14 stitches on your right-hand needle and five stitches on your left-hand needle. You will have five stitches on your left-hand needle because the ssk turns two stitches into one. When you turn to the wrong side you will have 14 stitches on your left-hand needle. The directions tell you to slip 1, purl 5, p2tog, p1, which takes up nine stitches and leaves you with five stitches on your left-hand needle. Now both sides should have five stitches beyond the gap. Make sure you are decreasing using a stitch from either side of the gap, otherwise you’ll get a hole in the heel. I hope this has helped you!
-Adam
Never knit socks before, so thought I’d start with these. Was humming along until I got to the heel turn and am now lost. I work best with visuals. Do you happen to have a video of this part of the project, or even still shots of some of the steps? I looked for heel-turning videos on YouTube but don’t see any that include a “gap.” Is the gap standard in all heels?
Thanks, Nita
Hi Nita,
Thanks for writing us. There are many ways to turn a heel and hopefully I can help you understand this. Unfortunately we don’t have a video tutorial for this so I’ll have to explain. Let’s say you are doing the smallest size. You start with 20 stitches from your heel flap and will turn the heel by turning the work before completing the entire row. Your first step is to knit 12, SSK (1 stitch decreased), K1. When you turn the work so the wrong side is facing you, you will still have five stitches on your right-hand needle. Leave these stitches unworked, as you will eliminate them one by one as you turn the heel. When you’ve completed the wrong side and have turned the work so the right side is facing you, you’ll notice that there are larger gaps than normal in between stitches where you’ve turned the work. On the subsequent rows you will SSK or P2tog (depending on right/wrong side) the stitch to the right and left of the gap. This will close the gap and eliminate one stitch from your non-worked stitches. I hope this helps!
-Adam
Could these sock be made on any others yarns. I love to knit sock for my grandkids but they end up throwing them in the dryer. Any wash and dry yarns?
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for writing in! Absolutely! Any worsted weight yarn could be substituted here! I would say that I have not seen a washable yarn that suggests machine drying so I cannot speak to any yarns that would specifically work for that. For a machine washable alternative, Anzula’s FOr Better or Worsted would work well!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Maggie,
Check out Lorna’s Lace yarns. Most or all of hers came be dried in a gas dryer, not an electric dryer as my daughter-in-law learned that I was right. Needless to say, I no longer knit for my granddaughter. Lorna’s yarns are awesome.
Hello,
This is my first time making socks and I’m not used to using multiple colors. When completing the end of the heel flap and moving into the heel turn, the pattern says to “carry the MC up the side.” What exactly does this mean?
Thanks!
Olivia
Hi Olivia,
Thanks for writing in and congratulations on making your first socks! When we say carry the main color up the side, you will wrap your working yarn around the MC yarn each time you come to the edge that it is on. This means that when it comes time to use the main color again, it will be attached to your work still and it will be tacked in place along where you carried it up!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello, Is this a toe-up pattern? Please…
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for writing us. This is a cuff-down pattern but the Pixel Stitch Socks are toe-up. Hope this helps!
-Adam
When I introduced the CC to the heel, it was easy to wrap the CC around the main color. When I turned the heel, however, I do not know how I would carry the main color and wrap around the contrast color because the CC does not reach the end of the row until I have 12 stitches left. Should I just jump the MC yarn up a few rows after the heel turn is completed?
Hi Lauri,
Thanks for writing in and for your patience! You will carry the yarn up along the side where you can. As you are creating an oblong shape, you shouldn’t have an issue skipping the short rows and connecting later as the yarn will not need to travel up more than just the very side of the heel.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I am knitting my socks in size small and just reached the TOE section in the pattern and have 20 stitches (8 on needle A, 4 on needle B and 8 on needle C). The pattern says to “Repeat just Round 1 until 8 total stitches remain” but how can I do that when I only have 4 stitches on needle B? Did I miss something earlier?
Hello Reiko,
Thank you for your question! I hope I can help. I’m reading through the pattern and it looks like when you begin the Toe section you should have 10 stitches on needle A, 20 stitches on needle B, and 10 stitches on needle C. This means that when you begin the “Repeat just Round 1 until 8 total stitches remain” section you should have 5 stitches on needle A, 10 stitches on needle B, and 5 stitches on needle C.
I think what might of happened is that you forgot the “Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until 40(48) stitches remain.” step at the end of the gusset. I would double check your stitch count from the beginning of the Toe section and make sure you are starting with 40 stitches.
I hope this all makes sense! Please let me know if I can clarify anything or if you have any further questions.
Best,
Marilla
Hi there,
I am confused about the beginning of the heel when you knit the first 12 stitches (I am working size lg) and then turn the work to the wrong side to purl 24. Does this mean that I’m now purling over these first 12 snitches that I knit plus 12 new purled stitches from the previous round?
Hi Maura,
Thanks for writing in! You are absolutely correct! You will be working the 12 stitches that you just worked plus 12 stitches from the previous round!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi!
I love these cozy looking socks! Is the Large size a men’s size? I want to make these for my husband who wears a size 11 shoe. If not, how can I adjust the pattern for a men’s size? Thanks for your help!
Sincerely,
Rabah
Hello Rabah,
Thank you for reaching out! The larger size has a foot circumference of 8¾ inches, comfortably stretching several inches and the foot length is adjustable. So I think it should work well for a men’s size 11!
Happy Knitting,
Marilla
I would love to make these socks. Do the small/med and med/large correspond to certain shoe sizes? It would make it easier for me to make gifts if I knew. Thanks!
Hello Denise,
Thank you for writing in! The foot circumference of these socks are 7¼ inches and 8¾ inches, comfortably stretching several inches.
The foot length is adjustable, depending on how long the foot being knit for is. These measurements line up, approximately, to Women’s US 6-9(S/M) and US 8-12(M/L) or Men’s US 8-10(S/M) and 10-12 (M/L). I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi, just before I buy the pattern, can I check – what is ‘worsted’ yarn? Is it the same as UK double knit please? Love the pattern, I usually use a 4 ply pattern, so fiddly! Thanks!
Hello Lynda,
Thanks for your question! A worsted weight yarn is a UK 10 ply yarn with 20 stitches per 10 cm. This sock is knit pretty tightly so you will get 22 stitches per 10cm on a size 4mm needle.
I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Great! Thank you, that’s Aran weight I think, will get the pattern and have a go! Love the website btw, I was lucky enough to visit your lovely shop when we went to New York some years ago, and I’ve been on your mailing list ever since x
My pleasure! Thank you for visiting us and your kind words.
Warmly,
Marilla
I’m in the process of knitting my third sock (unraveled the first one because it had too many mistakes!) and I’m having no trouble knitting the heel flap or turning the heel. However, when I go to pick up the stitches on the sides of the heel flap to make the gusset, I can’t seem to do it neatly and get holes. Any suggestions?
Hi Jean!
When picking up the gusset edge make sure you are going through both loops of the knit stitches on the edge instead of just one. If you are picking up just one side of the knit stitch there will be big gaps on each picked up stitch.
I hope this helps!
Carly
Can these socks be made with magic loop instead of dpns?
Hello Debbie,
Thank you for reaching out! Yes, these socks can certainly be knit using magic loop.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I wonder how easy it would be to size these socks for a child or toddler?
Has anyone tried with success?
Hi Danielle,
Thanks for writing in! We do have a pattern for socks for babies using a thinner yarn for their small feet. We also have a free Toddler Sock pattern using fingering weight yarn!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello
Love this sock pattern…can it be made in a cotton yarn for gardening boots ?
Thanks
Karen
Hi Karen,
Thanks for writing in! Cotton can be quite tricky for socks! Cotton does not have the memory or elasticity of wool and does tend to grow over time. That is to say, that the bounce back that you see in wool socks after wearing them, would not be present when knitting socks with cotton. You can try knitting the socks at a tighter gauge and smaller than you would normally for your size but this is very hit and miss. It could result in the socks being too tight to get on as cotton lacks elasticity that allows socks to fit snuggly. You can certainly give it a go but I do think that there will be a fair amount of trial and error.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi do you have any suggestions of best way to close the gap at the join? Thanks for details and a video would be awesome!
Hello Lisa,
Thank you for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t have a video tutorial, but I will pass along your request. Are you getting a gap at the heel? When you’ve completed the wrong side and have turned the work so the right side is facing you, you’ll notice that there are larger gaps than normal in between stitches where you’ve turned the work. On the subsequent rows you will SSK or P2tog (depending on right/wrong side) the stitch to the right and left of the gap. This should close the gap and eliminate one stitch from your non-worked stitches. If all else fails and you are still getting a small gap, you can always go back in and sew up the small gap. I hope this helps and let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
This tutorial shows a solution for the gap. Also useful when you are knitting a seamless sweater and want to omit underarm gap. kind regards, Mario
https://youtu.be/8K-IsMdTHK0
love love these socks. i do have a question about the heel flap. your stitches look so different than mine. in the picture there is so much texture. i don’t have texture at all. did i do something wrong? also, i purchased this yarn and wasn’t able to get the gauge with 6 needles. i did have to go down to a 5. really enjoy your store.
Hello Anita,
Thank you for reaching out, and good job doing the the work to get gauge! I hope I can help, what does you heel flap coming out as? Did you do a stitch count check? Which row are you on?
Warmly,
Marilla
I have received the yarn you suggested to make these boot socks. I love it but notice it is 100% wool. Will this stand up to wear especially when wearing for long hiking?
Hi Teresa,
Thanks for writing in! Wool is actually a great option for long wearing socks, especially when knitted at a tighter than usual gauge, as we did for these socks. This results in a thick, sturdy fabric that is quite comfortable and cushiony. However, since it is not superwash wool, if you have very sweaty feet, you may find that it felts a bit on long hikes. In that case, I would suggest using a superwash or machine washable wool or wool blend, such as Anzula For Better or Worsted.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
hi,
i am wondering if i could modify these to be taller by simply extending the calf to make a knee sock. I like tall socks in winter to wear with tall boots and ski boots.
thanks
Hello Jen,
Thank you for reaching out! You could certainly extend this portion of the sock. It is possible that you might need to increase by a couple of stitches, but this will depend on how you would like the sock to fit. I would also check out our Very Long Socks which might be just what you are looking for!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi. I’m really enjoying knitting up these socks with the wonderful Worsted Twist. I’ve just finished the leg, and am curious about the first Heel Flap instruction. What does the phrase, “Turn work so the wrong side is facing you” mean? Does this mean turn the whole sock inside out? Or are you referring to what part of the work faces you?
Thanks for your help. I’m sure to have some questions about Carrying the MC up the side, but for now, I’m stuck on this point.
Thanks again,
Brian
Hello Brian,
Thank you for reaching out and for your kind words! This portion refers to what part of the work faces you. This means that you will be knitting flat for this section rather than in the round.
I hope this makes sense and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Thanks, Marilla. I’ve finished the flap, turn, and gusset and heading for home working knits in the round for the foot! Thanks for the great pattern directions – doing exactly what it says yields great results.
I’m working this pattern for the first time and wanting to use just one color. How do I modify this pattern for just one color?
Thanks so much!
Hello Carol,
Thank you for reaching out! This is a very simple adjustment, you will just knit the whole pattern in one color, nothing more to it!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hello
I’ve knitted this sock several times using the 40 cast on, I find the sock to be very loose (I might be a loose knitter) is there a way I can modify to make it a tighter knitted sock ? ?
Should I go down on the needles size ? I’m about to cast on to make my 3 adult daughters socks for Christmas.
PS very disappointed you discontinued wheat I have one sock finished and can’t make another.
Thanks
Karen
Hi Karen,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend checking your gauge on a pair of socks you have already knitted to see if it matches our gauge of 22 stitches to 4 inches. If you find that you are getting too many stitches to 4 inches, that means your gauge is too loose, and you can remedy that by knitting the socks on a smaller needle, though it is a good idea to knit a gauge swatch on the smaller needle to make sure it is small enough! I do apologize that Wheat Flour is no longer available! It is always a good idea to make sure you order enough yarn (or maybe even a little extra!) for your project before you begin just in case the color or dye lot is no longer available later.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
When picking up stitches along the heel flap, should they be spaced along the entire flap?
thanks
Susan
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, the picked up stitches should be distributed evenly along the edge of the heel flap, and there should be one stitch picked up in each slipped stitch along the selvages.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi, approximately how many yards of each color are needed for one pair of size S/M? Just wondering if 2 skeins of each color would be enough to make two pair of socks in the Anzula Better or Worsted (164 yards per skein). Many thanks.
Hi Marly,
Great question! The Small/Medium requires 190 yards of the main color and 29 yards of the contrast color. If you reverse the colors, you can definitely make two pairs!
Best,
Julianna
Hi! I’m knitting the heel flap and it’s coming out curving off to one side… I think im misinterpreting the instructions about Row 1 and Row 2 in the pattern. I’m always slipping an one stitch off at the edge of Row 2, and this is always on one side of the work so it’s making it lopsided – is that normal?
Hi Courtney,
Thanks for reaching out! Your heel flap should be turning out square or rectangular with straight sides, so it sounds like something is going awry. On Row 1, you should be starting with slipping the first stitch, and alternating knits and slips, ending with a knit, so if you are ending with a slip, you either have the wrong number of stitches or are getting off somewhere in the middle. You will then slip only the first stitch on Row 2 and purl to the end, so you are always slipping the first stitch of every row, and knitting or purling the last stitch. I would suggest double checking how many stitches you have on the needle for the heel flap and making sure it is an even number.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi! Would the medium/large size fit a mens size 13 foot?
Hi Katie,
Thanks for writing in! The large size should fit a men’s 13 foot, but to be on the safe side, we recommend measuring the recipient’s foot if possible! For the most comfortable fit, hand-knit socks should be about 1 to 2 inches smaller than the wearer’s actual foot measurement, so these should fit up to a 10.75 inch foot circumference, measured around the ball of the foot.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi there! Do you have suggestions for how to adapt this pattern for a superwash merino wool yarn? I was gifted two skeins of:
Malabrigo Pure Merino Superwash
Approx. 210 yards, 100 grams
4.5-5.5 sts. per inch
NS: US 6-8
I think this is a very similar yarn to the one suggested in the pattern, minus the worsted part. When I tried knitting as the pattern suggested, the resulting sock was too “airy.” This is my first time using superwash and I am struggling to find a use for it. Any thoughts?
Hi Chelsea,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend working a gauge swatch with a needle size one down from the pattern (a US 5) and see if the fabric comes out a bit more dense! You can then adjust the cast on from there! I recommend checking out our All About Gauge tutorial, it is an excellent resource to use! Superwash is a great option, it sounds to me like yours is light worsted/dk weight so you could use that for any of our patterns using that weight of yarn! If you aren’t set on making socks (since these are written for a worsted weight and would take a bit of re-gauging) I would recommend checking out some of our accessory patterns for light worsted/dk weight, you can find them here!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi! I am at the point of starting the toe, but after reaching the 40 stitches to start the foot I distributed the 40 in 4 dpns. How many stitches should I have in needles A, B, C at the beginning of the toe? Thank you!
Hi Jackie,
Thanks for reaching out! Once you work the Gusset you should have 10 stitches on Needle A and C and 20 stitches on Needle B, 40 stitches total going into the Toe section!
Warmly,
Gianna
I have just finished a pair of boot socks. Love your pattern. From my last recent shopping trip in NYC I have also some «peony pink» and also alpaca pure, which is slightly thicker. shall I try your pattern with a US 7 and kling to the 40 sts CO? Kind regards – Mario – Zurich Switzerland
Hi Mario,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest starting off by working a gauge swatch on the US 6 and see how it compares to the pattern and if needed you can go up to a US 7 while following the same recommended cast on!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thanks a lot. I will try it. The first pair in grey are already finished. Second one in grey almost done. Will start the peony pink ones and then the last pair in alpaca pure.
Hello- can these socks be made with cashmere worsted yarn? Thank you!
Hi Kathleen,
Thanks for reaching out! Since these socks are designed for a worsted weight yarn, you could technically use a cashmere worsted yarn, but I would not recommend doing so. Cashmere isn’t a very strong fiber, so without any reinforcement, the socks will wear out very quickly! One thing I’ve heard of doing though is holding a nylon thread along with the yarn to ensure that the socks maintain their structure.
All the best,
Lili
Hi-
I’m wondering if your gorgeous new Nigh yarn could be used for this pattern or the Colorblock socks? Thanks!
Hi Tracey,
I would not recommend using Nigh for sock patterns. Cashmere isn’t a very strong fiber, so without any reinforcement, the socks will wear out very quickly! One thing I’ve heard of doing though is holding a nylon thread along with the yarn to ensure that the socks maintain their structure. However, Nigh wouldn’t work for either of the patterns you mentioned, even with the nylon. It’s a DK weight yarn, and these patterns are written for a worsted weight and fingering weight yarn, respectively. In general though, cashmere yarns are better suited for projects that don’t get quite as much wear as a pair of socks!
All the best,
Lili
OK & thank you! I was considering using a silk or nylon blend for the heels and toes.
Hi! Would Linen Quill Worsted be a suitable substitute for this sock?
Thanks!
Hi Aimee,
You can definitely use Linen Quill Worsted for these socks! I’d just recommend knitting up a gauge swatch to make sure you choose the best needles for the project.
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili!
Hi I don’t have 6 DPNs. I normally knit small circumference items with 2 circular method instead. Is there anything I need to be mindful of with this pattern if I use this method? I’m particularly thinking about how to do the heel flap with 2 circulars, since I wouldn’t be able to turn the work and p20 (or perhaps I can?) Thanks!
Hi Nadia,
You’ll be okay when you get to that part! You may decide to put the instep stitches on a stitch holder, spare needles, or scrap yarn while you work the heel, but that won’t be complicated… You’ll see! We’re also here to help if you run into any problems along the way. We usually answer much more quickly than this!
Happy knitting!
Best,
Whitney