Criss Cross Top
Beginning with a thoughtful design and ending with a flattering fit, there’s a lot to love about our Criss Cross Top!
Form follows function, here, with easy stitch patterns that each do their job. Reverse stockinette serves as a beautiful all-over ground, while 1 x 1 ribbing gives structure and definition to edges. One simple cable at the front neckline provides all the drama.
Knit from the bottom up, you start with the front hem, then knit the back hem, then join in the round, and separate again to work the front and back. A back neckband anchors the front shoulders, and before you know it, it’s time to slip on your own gorgeous Criss Cross Top!
We knit up ours in our 100% merino wool Worsted Twist. It has an incredibly soft and cozy touch, works up as a fairly quick knit, and comes in a beautiful palette of gentle colors. Pick your favorite and cast on for this free pattern… Free? Yes!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Adam Aronowitz.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoCrissCrossTop, and #PurlSohoWorstedTwist. We can’t wait to see what you make!
MATERIALS
- 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 7) skeins of Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist, 100% merino wool. Each skein is 164 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 565 (655, 710, 820, 905, 1035) yards required. We used the color Wheat Flour.
- US 6 (4 mm), 24-inch circular needles
- US 6, 32-inch or 40-inch circular needles (depending on sweater size)
- Two US 6 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including 4 removable
- A cable stitch holder
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
GAUGE
20 stitches and 31 rows = 4 inches in reverse stockinette stitch
SIZES
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
34½ (37¾, 41, 44¼, 47¼, 50½)
To fit actual chest circumference 31–33 (34–36, 37–39, 40–42, 43–45, 47–49) inches, with approximately 2–4 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 34½ (37¾, 41, 44¼, 47¼, 50½) inches
- Finished Length From Top Of Shoulder: 21¼ (22¾, 23¼, 24¾, 25¼, 26¾) inches
SAMPLE: The top pictured here is size 34½ inches modeled with 2½ inches of ease.
NOTES
SLIP STITCHES
Slip stitches purlwise unless directed otherwise.
Ssp (SLIP SLIP PURL)
Slip 2 stitches knitwise, one at a time, return them to left-hand needle in new orientation, purl them together through back loops. [1 stitch decreased]
For our photo tutorial, please visit our Purl 2 Together Through Back Loop Tutorial.
Sssp (SLIP SLIP SLIP PURL)
Slip 3 stitches knitwise, one at a time, return them to left-hand needle in new orientation, purl them together through back loops. [2 stitches decreased]
P3tog (PURL 3 TOGETHER)
Insert right-hand needle into next 3 stitches purlwise and purl them together. [2 stitches decreased]
PATTERN
FRONT HEM
Cast 92 (100, 108, 116, 124, 132) stitches onto 24-inch circular needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On. Do not join for working in the round.
Row 1 (wrong side): Slip 1 (see Notes) with yarn in front (wyif), [p1, k1] 6 times, place marker (pm), k24 (28, 32, 36, 40, 44), pm, [k1, p1] 4 times, k2, [p1, k1] 4 times, pm, k24 (28, 32, 36, 40, 44), pm, [k1, p1] 6 times, k1.
Row 2 (right side): Slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 6 times, slip marker (sm), purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, p2, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 6 times, k1.
Row 3: Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 6 times, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [k1, p1] 4 times, k2, [p1, k1] 4 times, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [k1, p1] 6 times, k1.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until Front Hem measures 3 inches from cast-on edge, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn and set aside.
BACK HEM
Cast 92 (100, 108, 116, 124, 132) stitches onto 32- or 40-inch circular needles. Do not join for working in the round.
Row 1 (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 6 times, pm, k66 (74, 82, 90, 98, 106), pm, [k1, p1] 6 times, k1.
Row 2 (right side): Slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 6 times, sm, purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 6 times, k1.
Row 3: Slip1 wyif, [p1, k1] 6 times, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [k1, p1] 6 times, k1.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until Back Hem measures 3 inches from cast-on edge, ending with a wrong-side row.
JOIN HEMS IN THE ROUND
NOTE: In the following section you will join Front and Back Hems for working Body in the round.
Joining Round (right side): Working across Back Hem stitches, slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 6 times, sm, purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 6 times, slip last stitch of Back Hem onto a cable stitch holder; pick up Front Hem with right side facing you, and holding cable stitch holder in front of work, use Back Hem needle to p1 from Front Hem, place marker on right-hand needle for Left Side, p1 from cable stitch holder; working across Front Hem stitches, [k1, p1] 6 times, sm, purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, p2, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 6 times, slip the last stitch of Front Hem onto cable stitch holder; pick up Back Hem with right side facing you, being careful to not twist the stitches and holding cable stitch holder in back of work, p1 from Back Hem, place unique marker on right-hand needle for end of round, slip stitch from cable stitch holder to left-hand needle. [184 (200, 216, 232, 248, 264) stitches total: 92 (100, 108, 116, 124, 132) stitches each for Front and Back]
BODY
CONTINUE BODY IN THE ROUND
Round 1: [P1, k1] 6 times, p1, sm, purl to next marker, sm, [(p1, k1) 6 times, p1, sm] 2 times, purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, p2, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 6 times, p1.
Repeat Round 1 until Body measures 9½ (10½, 10½, 11½, 11½, 12½) inches from Joining Round.
DIVIDE BODY
Division Round: [P1, k1] 6 times, p1, sm, purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, p1, bind off 8 stitches in pattern for Left Underarm (removing Left Side marker), [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, p2, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, p1, bind off 8 stitches in pattern for Right Underarm (removing end-of-round marker). [168 (184, 200, 216, 232, 248) stitches remain: 84 (92, 100, 108, 116, 124) stitches each for Front and Back]
Place 84 (92, 100, 108, 116, 124) Front stitches on stitch holders or scrap yarn.
BACK
NOTE: In this section of the pattern you will be working back and forth over only the Back stitches.
WORK ARMHOLES
FOR SIZES 44¼, 47¼, AND 50½ INCHES ONLY
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, purl 2 together (p2tog), purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssp (see Notes), sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 4 times, sm, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog, sm, [k1, p1] 4 times, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 – (–, –, 1, 3, 4) more time(s). [– (–, –, 100, 100, 104) stitches remain]
FOR ALL SIZES
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, purl 2 together (p2tog), purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssp (see Notes), sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 4 times, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [k1, p1] 4 times, k1.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 seven (9, 11, 9, 7, 7) more times. [68 (72, 76, 80, 84, 88) stitches remain]
Next Row (right side): Slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, k1.
Next Row (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 4 times, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [k1, p1] 4 times, k1.
Repeat last two rows until Armhole measures 5½ (5¾, 6, 6½, 6¾, 7) inches, ending with a wrong-side row.
SHOULDERS
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, p3tog (see Notes), purl to 3 stitches before next marker, sssp (see Notes), sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, k1. [4 stitches decreased]
NOTE: With right side facing, place a removable marker around first and last stitches of previous row to indicate where to attach Front Shoulders.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 4 times, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [k1, p1] 4 times, k1.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 six (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) more times. [40 (40, 40, 44, 44, 44) stitches remain]
BACK NECK
NOTE: For the following section you will be working the ribbed section back and forth in short rows while eliminating Back Neck stitches to form Neckband.
RIGHT BACK NECK
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, p2tog, turn. [1 stitch decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib), sm, [k1, p1] 4 times, k1.
NOTE: With right side facing, place a removable marker around stitch below first stitch on left-hand needle to indicate where to attach Front Shoulder.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 eight (8, 8, 10, 10, 10) more times, then repeat Row 1 once more. [30 (30, 30, 32, 32, 32) stitches remain]
Cut yarn. Place last 10 stitches on right-hand needle onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Right Back Neck edge. [20 (20, 20, 22, 22, 22) stitches remain]
LEFT BACK NECK
Row 1 (wrong side): With wrong side facing, slip 1 to right-hand needle, join new yarn and [p1, k1] 4 times, sm, ssk, turn. [1 stitch decreased]
Row 2 (right side): Slip 1 wyif, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, k1.
NOTE: With wrong side facing, place a removable marker around stitch below first stitch on left-hand needle to indicate where to attach Front Shoulder.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 eight (8, 8, 10, 10, 10) more times. [10 stitches remain]
Cut yarn, leaving a 36-inch tail. Place remaining 10 stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Left Back Neck edge.
FRONT
NOTE: In this section of the pattern you will be working back and forth over only the Front stitches.
Return 84 (92, 100, 108, 116, 124) on-hold Front stitches to 24-inch circular needles.
SHAPE ARMHOLES
FOR SIZES 44¼, 47¼ AND 50½ INCHES ONLY
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 to right-hand needle, join new yarn and [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, p2tog, purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, p2, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssp, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, k1. [- (-, -, 106, 114, 122) stitches]
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 4 times, sm, ssk, knit to next marker, sm, [k1, p1] 4 times, k2, [p1, k1] 4 times, sm, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog, sm, [k1, p1] 4 times, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 3: Slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, p2tog, purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, p2, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssp, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 – (–, –, 0, 2, 3) more times, then repeat Row 2 once more. [– (–, –, 100, 100, 104) stitches remain]
FOR ALL SIZES
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 to right-hand needle (wyif for Sizes 44¼, 47¼ and 50½), join new yarn (for Sizes 34½, 37¾, and 41) and [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, p2tog, purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, p2, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssp, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 4 times, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [k1, p1] 4 times, k2, [p1, k1] 4 times, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [k1, p1] 4 times, k1.
Row 3: Slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, p2tog, purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, p2, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssp, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 two (4, 4, 4, 2, 3) more times. [76 (80, 88, 88, 92, 94) stitches remain]
Work 1 wrong-side row even.
WORK CABLE CROSS + DIVIDE FRONTS
NOTE: In the following section you will work the cable cross at center front and then divide for Left and Right Fronts. At the same time, you will shape Armholes and Front Neckline.
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, p2tog, purl to next marker, sm, slip 9 stitches onto cable stitch holder and hold in back of work, from left-hand needle [p1, k1] 4 times, p1, from cable stitch holder [p1, k1] 4 times, p1, sm, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssp, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, k1. [74 (78, 86, 86, 90, 92) stitches remain]
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 4 times, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [k1, p1] 4 times, k2, [p1, k1] 4 times, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [k1, p1] 4 times, k1.
Row 3: Slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, p2tog, purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, p2, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssp, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, k1. [72 (76, 84, 84, 88, 90) stitches remain]
Row 4: Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 4 times, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [k1, p1] 4 times, k1, place last 36 (38, 42, 42, 44, 45) stitches worked onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Right Front, [k1, p1] 4 times, k1, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [k1, p1] 4 times, k1. [36 (38, 42, 42, 44, 45) stitches remain for Left Front]
LEFT FRONT
SHAPE ARMHOLES + NECKLINE
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, p2tog, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssp, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 4 times, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [k1, p1] 4 times, k1.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 one (1, 3, 1, 1, 0) more time(s). [32 (34, 34, 38, 40, 43) stitches remain]
SHAPE NECKLINE
Decrease Row (right side): Slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssp, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, k1. [1 stitch decreased]
Next Row (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 4 times, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [k1, p1] 4 times, k1.
Working in established pattern, repeat Decrease Row every right-side row 8 (12, 9, 15, 17, 19) more times, then every 4th row 3 (1, 4, 2, 2, 1) time(s), ending with a wrong-side row. [20 (20, 20, 20, 20, 22) stitches remain]
FOR SIZES 34½, 37¾, 41, AND 44¼ INCHES ONLY
Decrease Row (right side): Slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 4 times, remove marker, ssp, remove marker, [p1, k1] 4 times, k1. [19 stitches remain]
Next Row (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 3 times, p1, k3, p1, [k1, p1] 3 times, k1.
Next Row (right side): Slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 3 times, k1, p3, k1, [p1, k1] 3 times, k1.
Next Row: Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 3 times, p1, k3, p1, [k1, p1] 3 times, k1.
Decrease Row (right side): Slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 3 times, k1, p1, ssp, k1, [p1, k1] 3 times, k1. [18 stitches remain]
Next Row (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 3 times, p1, k2, p1, [k1, p1] 3 times, k1.
ALL SIZES
Work even until Armhole measures 8¾ (9¼, 9¾, 10¼, 10¾, 11¼) inches, ending with a wrong-side row.
Place Left Front stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn.
RIGHT FRONT
SHAPE ARMHOLES + NECKLINE
Return on-hold 36 (38, 42, 42, 44, 45) Right Front stitches to 24-inch circular needles.
Row 1 (right side): With right side facing you, slip 1 stitch to right-hand needle, join new yarn and [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, p2tog, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssp, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, k1. [34 (36, 40, 40, 42, 43) stitches remain]
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 4 times, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [k1, p1] 4 times, k1.
FOR SIZES 34½, 37¾, 41, 44¼, AND 47¼ INCHES ONLY
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, p2tog, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssp, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 4 times, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [k1, p1] 4 times, k1.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 zero (0, 2, 0, 0, –) more times [32 (34, 34, 38, 40, –) stitches remain]
SHAPE NECKLINE: ALL SIZES
Decrease Row (right side): Slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, p2tog, purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, k1. [1 stitch decreased]
Next Row (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 4 times, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [k1, p1] 4 times, k1.
Working in established pattern, repeat Decrease Row every right-side row 8 (12, 9, 15, 17, 19) more times, then every 4th row 3 (1, 4, 2, 2, 1) time(s). [20 (20, 20, 20, 20, 22) stitches remain]
FOR SIZES 34½, 37¾, 41, AND 44¼ INCHES ONLY
Decrease Row (right side): Slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 4 times, remove marker, p2tog, remove marker, [p1, k1] 4 times, k1. [19 stitches remain]
Next Row (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 3 times, p1, k3, p1, [k1, p1] 3 times, k1.
Next Row (right side): Slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 3 times, k1, p3, k1, [p1, k1] 3 times, k1.
Next Row: Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 3 times, p1, k3, p1, [k1, p1] 3 times, k1.
Decrease Row: Slip 1 wyif, [k1, p1] 3 times, k1, p2tog, p1, k1, [p1, k1] 3 times, k1. [18 stitches remain]
Next Row: Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 3 times, p1, k2, p1, [k1, p1] 3 times, k1.
ALL SIZES
Work even until Armhole measures 8¾ (9¼, 9¾, 10¼, 10¾, 11¼) inches, ending with a wrong-side row.
Do not cut yarn.
FINISH
ATTACH FRONTS TO BACK SHOULDERS
With wrong sides of Right Front and Right Back Shoulder facing each other, align live stitches of Right Front between markers on Right Back Shoulder. There are 7 (8, 9, 9, 10, 11) selvedge stitches (columns of slipped edge stitches) between markers on Back Shoulder, which will be joined to the 18 (18, 18, 18, 20, 22) Right Front stitches. Here’s how…
Insert right-hand needle into first stitch of Front, then into first selvedge stitch of Shoulder, use working yarn to wrap yarn around needle as if to knit and draw stitch through both the selvedge and live stitch, dropping live stitch off left-hand needle.
Insert needle into next stitch of Front, then into same selvedge stitch just worked, wrap working yarn around needle as if to knit and draw stitch through both selvedge and live stitch. Pass first stitch over second stitch. [1 stitch bound off: 17 (17, 17, 17, 19, 21) Right Front stitches remain]
FOR SIZES 34½ AND 37¾ INCHES ONLY
*Insert right-hand needle into next stitch of Front, then into next selvedge stitch of Shoulder, wrap working yarn around needle as if to knit and draw stitch through both the selvedge and live stitch, dropping live stitch off left-hand needle. Pass first stitch over second stitch. [1 stitch bound off]
[Insert needle into next stitch of Front, then into same selvedge stitch just worked, wrap working yarn around needle as if to knit and draw stitch through both the selvedge and live stitch. Pass first stitch over second stitch.] 2 times. [2 stitches bound off]
Repeat from * 3 (1, –, –, –, –) more time(s). [5, 11, –, –, –, –) Right Front stitches remain]
FOR ALL SIZES
**Insert right-hand needle into next stitch of Front, then into next selvedge stitch of Shoulder, wrap working yarn around needle as if to knit and draw stitch through both the selvedge and live stitch, dropping live stitch off left-hand needle. Pass first stitch over second stitch. [1 stitch bound off]
Insert needle into next stitch of Front, then into same selvedge stitch just worked, wrap working yarn around needle as if to knit and draw stitch through both the selvedge and live stitch. Pass first stitch over second stitch. [1 stitch bound off]
Repeat from ** until all Front Shoulder stitches have been bound off and attached to Back Shoulder.
Cut yarn and pull through last stitch.
Repeat for Left Shoulder, joining new yarn at beginning of sequence.
CONNECT BACK NECK STITCHES
Place each set of 10 Back Neck stitches onto a double pointed needle. Holding the needles parallel with wrong sides facing each other, work a Modified 3-Needle Bind Off over the Back Neck stitches.
Cut yarn and pull through last stitch.
WEAVE ENDS + BLOCK
Weave in all ends and block as desired.
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I cannot help but admire the way you”listen” to the yarns you supply. Respect!
I was wondering what level this pattern is made for. I have never knitted a garment before.
Hi Jeanne,
Thanks for reaching out! We don’t rate the difficulty of our patterns because we want people to feel free to try things that are “too hard” for them; we want to encourage people to discover that learning new techniques enriches the process of making; and we don’t want to put people in a box that says, “You can make this but not this.” We do try to describe the skills involved with a pattern so that customers know what they’re getting into, but ultimately, we hope that you will take little leaps into the unknown and find that the satisfaction was worth the challenge!
My recommendation is to read through the pattern and see if you are comfortable with the techniques used. If you have done cables before or are up for a very simple one, have knit in the round and have a bit of an adventurous nature, I think that this could work well for you! I also like to get a bit of scarp yarn and a needle and try any technique that is new to me to see how I feel about executing it! In this way you may get a better sense about whether this is the right pattern for you!
Remember, we’re always here to help!
Cassy
This is so beautiful! It’s lovely as a tank and would also make a great layering piece. Thank you for sharing it.
Merino would not be wearable in our hot, humid summers. Any “warm weather” yarn recommendations? Thanks for the lovely pattern.
Hi Cecelia,
Thanks for writing in! I think either Lantern or Blue Sky Worsted Cotton would result in a lovely version of this top for warmer climates!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I just finished this in Blue Sky Worsted Cotton. Perfect pattern instructions, like eveyr pattern from Purl Soho. It came out exactly as expected and the Blue Sky worked really well.
I LOVE this design however I do not wear tank tops. I wish this could have sleeves. I would want to keep the super interesting shoulder and side stitching but then add on sleeves. Any idea what that might be like? Has anyone done such a thing and if so, is there an instruction for that variation? If not, I will attempt to figure it out myself.
Hi Lorna,
Thanks for reaching out! While we haven’t tried it ourselves, I think you could certainly add sleeves to customize this top! I would probably do set-in sleeves since the shape of the armhole is very similar to that of a set-in sleeve, so you should be able to knit the top as is and add the sleeves at the end. I was able to find a few good tutorials by searching Google for “top down set in sleeve knitting pattern.”
Good luck, and please let us know how your version turns out!
Julianna
Absolutely lovely. Simple lines are the best. Thank you for sharing with us.
Hello,
Il’s a wonderful one.
Do you mean I could have the model in French or Spanish?
Thanks a lot
Hi Anweta,
Thanks for the kind words and for writing in! At present, our patterns are only available in English. We certainly appreciate the request!
Best,
Julianna
This is so amazing !Thank you for sharing it ???
Hi, I have no knowledge for knitting. But I do crochet. Do you have the pattern for crochet (with crochet abbreviations?
Thank you!
Hi Dawn,
Thanks for writing in! We do not have a crocheted version of this top but we will keep your request in mind for the future!
Best,
Julianna
Since part of this pattern is knit in the round, would it be possible to KNIT that long portion, rather than purl? What other changes would I need to make in order to do more knitting than purling? I am a continental knitter, and purling can be much slower for me.
Thank you!
Hi Megan,
Thanks for writing in! Although it is possible to knit this top inside out so you will be knitting the main sections instead of purling them, you will still have to work ribbing for the side and front details, so it will not completely eliminate purl stitches, though it will reduce them a bit. You will need to switch to knitting the top right side out after dividing the front and back at the armholes in order to work the shaping and cable sections, but otherwise you may be on to something! Best of luck and please let us know how your low-purl method turns out!
Best,
Julianna
I’m a continental knitter too and have trouble with even tension so I learned the Norwegian purl and it has made purling easy and helped with tension issues.
This looks gorgeous, but I find I never manage to wear sleeveless wool garments. I realize the elasticity might suffer if this were made with a different fiber, but are there any non-wool or part-wool yarns you’d recommend as alternatives?
Hi Rebecca,
Thanks for writing in and for the kind words! I think either Lantern or Blue Sky Worsted Cotton would result in a lovely version of this top for warmer climates! We do recommend knitting a size that gives two to four inches of positive ease, so I wouldn’t be too concerned about using a less elastic fiber.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Beautiful! Can this be done in the round instead of sections?
Hi Kim,
Thanks for the kind words! Although the bottom of the top is knitted in two separate pieces in order to create the split hem, you will then join both pieces for knitting in the round, and work the top in the round until you reach the armholes. The front and back are knitted separately at that point, but this is a seamless sweater!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I am trying to print out the pattern and am getting all kinds of other printed material on top of the pattern. Is there a specific way to print off the pattern.
Thanks,
Leslie Buff
Hi Leslie,
Thanks for reaching out! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I’m wondering how complicated adding waist shaping gets with the side detail? Any ideas how I would go about adding some slight shape without messing up the sides?
Thank you!!
Hi Nicole,
Thanks for reaching out! I think this top would look great with some waist shaping! Rather than adding it right at the side seam, which would interfere with the ribbing, you could work your increases and decreases just outside of the ribbing, at the edge of each stockinette section on the front and back, which will be conveniently delineated with markers. Please let us know how it turns out!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
i modelli sono bellissimi e anche i filati sembrano di grande qualita peccato che la traduzione in italiano e pessima (non si capisce nulla )
Hi Claudia,
Thank you for this lovely comment. We do not currently have the resources to translate our patterns, but hopefully at some point in the future this will be more of a possibility. In the mean time I will certainly pass along your suggestion!
Best,
Julianna
Hi!
I love this pattern 🙂 however, I’m struggling with the ”join hems in the round” part. Is there going to be a video tutorial (or pictures) on this part or not?
Laura
Hello Laura,
Thank you for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have a video tutorial for this top, but I will certainly pass along your suggestion. Is there a particular part of this section that you are struggling with? We can attempt to trouble shoot this with you.
I hope I can help!
-Marilla
Hi! I’m having trouble dividing the body after I’ve knit to the desired length. Should I bind off 8 stitches in the pattern under the left and right arm on the back portion of ribbing? I have 24 stitches under each arm and 16 in the center. Many thanks for the beautiful pattern!
Hi Jessica,
Thanks for writing in! Your bound off stitches should be centered around each side marker – in other words, when you are binding off 8 stitches for the underarm, it should four stitches immediately to the right and to the left of the side marker.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
When attaching the fronts to the back shoulders should I insert the needle as if to purl or as if to knit? And I’m having difficulty going back into the same selvedge stitch I just worked.
Is there a tutorial video for this part?
Hello Cathy,
Thank you for reaching out! Because you are knitting the live front stitches together with the selvedge you will be inserting your needle knit wise. I hope this clears things up and let us know if you have any more questions!
-Marilla
Is it necessary to go back into the same selvedge stitch. This seems impossible to do. Does it matter if I don’t do that.
Alternatively can I just darn instead?
Hi Kim,
Thanks for reaching out! If you are having a difficult time getting the needle into the stitch, I think you could certainly darn it instead to connect the pieces!
Please let us know how this turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi!
Will you have the Worsted Twist or Alpaca Pure in the Oyster Gray color any time soon? I have a few skeins I had stocked up before, but I need a whole lot more to get my sweater done. I really loved the Oyster Gray color!
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for reaching out! Oyster Gray in both Worsted Twist and Alpaca Pure have been discontinued and are no longer available. Each year we say goodbye to some colors (even some that we love) to make way for newer colors. So while we loved Oyster Gray, we retired it and have brought some new colors to our Worsted Twist line! Sometimes in cases like these, you may be able to find some one who may be willing to part with some skeins on Ravelry.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Just finished doing mine. So in love with it. Thank you so much for sharing this exquisite top.
Hello,
Under the section “join hems in the round” it says “pick up Back Hem with right side facing you…p1 from Back Hem”. I’m confused about “p1 from Back Hem”. The Back Hem and my working yarn are in my right hand. Do I use my left needle to purl from the right needle(Back Hem)?
Hi Melisa,
Thanks for reaching out! Once you have completed the first step of working across the Back Hem, you are correct that you will have your needle with the Back Hem stitches and working yarn in your right hand. You will then pick up the previously worked Front Hem, which should be on a spare needle or a stitch holder that you can knit directly off of, and hold it in your left hand, also with the right side facing you. You can then purl the first stitch from the Front Hem using the needle that is holding the Back Hem stitches to join them together.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi! Love love love this top! The only thing that’s not my favorite is the line of stitches running up the back neck where the two edges are joined with a three needle bind off; would it be possible to join with Kitchener stitch instead to avoid that line from the join?
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for reaching out! It is certainly possible, though you will have to look up how to do work Kitchener Stitch over 1×1 ribbing. It’s a bit tricky but can be done – it just requires a paying more attention than regular kitchener!
Best of luck, and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
I’m making the right front, shaping neckline. size 44 1/2. Shaping neckline goes from 20 stitches to 18 with only one stitch decreased then two rows later with one more decrease the count moves to 19. This is not consistent with the left side shaping. Otherwise, I’m enjoying the pattern.
Hi Adele,
Great catch! The first two rows in the Right Front section were incorrect – we have now deleted those rows, so you can follow the pattern above and the right front will match the left front. Thank you so much for pointing that out!
Best,
Julianna
Thanks for the correction! Loving this pattern…should be finished in time for warm weather!
I’ve never knitted a garment before and I love the look of this top so I’d like to try to make it. Can you add to the length of this top so that it hangs at the hips and not the waist? How do you go about doing something like that and how do you calculate out enough yarn so you don’t run out? Love your patterns!
Thanks,
Dannette
Hi Dannette,
Thanks for reaching out and I do hope you decide to branch out into sweater and garment knitting! It’s quite easy to add length to the body of this sweater. In the section titled “Continue Body In The Round,” you can adjust this length however you like to make a hip length top. It’s a bit harder to estimate how much yarn it will take, but if you are only planning on adding a few inches, one extra skein should be plenty. It’s always a good idea to purchase a bit of extra yarn anyway, and any unused yarn in its original condition can be returned for store credit – you can see our full return policy here.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello there, wondering if the Mulberry Merino will work with this pattern? Will size 6 needle work with the mulberry yarn as well or a different size? Thank you!
Hi Virgie,
Thanks for reaching out! Mulberry Merino is quite a bit thinner than Worsted Twist – although you might be able to obtain the correct gauge by adjusting the needle size, you would end up with a much less dense fabric than we used for this top and it may even be a bit sheer. If you would like to make a sleeveless top out of Mulberry Merino, you may be interested in our Tulip Tank Top or Drawstring Camisole instead!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I have a bad reaction to wool. Is there a silk cotton blend or substitute yarn you have that you may recommend I try to make this in instead?
Thanks!
Jenny
Hi Jenny,
Great question! I think either Lantern or Blue Sky Worsted Cotton would result in a lovely version of this top for those with sensitive skin!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Question on Criss cross top-
Left back neck- Row1 Wrong side slip 1,p1, k1 4 times, etc- but row 3 wrong side is skip 1, k1, p1 4 times- am I turned around somehow???
Hi Anne,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help! Both Row 1 and Row 3 begin with slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 4 times. Perhaps there was an transcription issue?
Best,
Cassy
Cassie is right! I had the same question. On the printed pattern, in the Left Back Neck section, it shows Row 3 (which is wrong side) with [k1,p1]. I’m so glad you clarified that it should be [p1,k1].
I was so glad that Anne reached out to ask this. I came across the same issue. It definitely was printed wrong.
My garment is rolling up. Did you use a paricular kind of cast on that prevents the stockinette from rolling? I ripped mine out but am eager to start again . I love this design.
Hello Margot,
Thanks for reaching out! The first thing I would check is that your gauge is correct, sometimes if your gauge is to tight you can get some curling. If your gauge is correct the curling edge can be fixed by blocking your Criss Cross Top.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
J’aimerais la traduction en français
Hi Janine,
Thanks for writing in! At present, our patterns are only available in English. We certainly appreciate the request!
Best,
Julianna
I’m having a difficulty doing 2 stiches bound off attaching fronts to back shoulders. I’m a 37 3/4size. Is there any kind of tutorial site I can refer to?
Hello Azusa,
Thank you for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not currently have a tutorial for this. How far are you able to get? it there a specific section in the process that is tripping you up?
I hope I can help!
-Marilla
Hi Marilla,
I’ve so far followed the instructions to the first paragraph on “FOR SIZES 34 1/2 AND 37 3/4 INCHES ONLY”, and there’re 16 stitches remained. In the next paragraph, it says, “［Insert needle… Pass first stitch over second stitch.］2 times.” Do I do “pass first stitch over second stitch” two times? Or do I do “［Insert… stitch.］one more time? No matter how many times I tried the second paragraph, 15 stitches remain…What am I doing wrong? And it’s so hard explain in the foreign language!
Hello Azusa,
Thank you for reaching out! In the second paragraph of this section [Insert needle into next stitch of Front, then into same selvedge stitch just worked, wrap working yarn around needle as if to knit and draw stitch through both the selvedge and live stitch. Pass first stitch over second stitch.] you will be repeating the entire paragraph twice. Each time you repeat this paragraph you will decrease 1 stitch each time.
I hope this makes sense and let me know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
-Marilla
Hi,
I used an acrylic/bamboo yarn for this pattern. My reverse stockinette sections are curling in at the bottom and I’m afraid maybe blocking it won’t help due to the yarn. I’m almost up to the armholes So frogging back is not a good option for me. Any suggestions? Possibly an added edge or other finishing technique?
Thank you,
Madelaine
Hello Madeline,
Thank you for reaching out! You could certainly add an I-cord border, or you could pick up and knit around the edge. This in addition to blocking should take care of the issue!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hello
I have some trouble understanding where to place the markers on the back section- under the note section ‘with right side facing, place removable marker around first and last stitches of previous row …’
I am looking at the pattern and am very confused. Appreciate your advice.
Thanks
Hi MayLing,
Thanks for reaching out! For this step you will need to use a removable marker, such as a Clover Locking Stitch Marker, and place it directly in the fabric that you have already knitted below the indicated stitch.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi fellow knitter!
Question on the Right Back Neck section: “Row 1…[k1p1] 4 times, p2tog turn… Repeat Rows 1 and 2 eight times, then repeat Row 1 once more. ”
Since there is a one stitch decrease in each Row 1 there aren’t enough stitches to [k1p1] 4 times after the first row – is that correct? The stitches decrease each row 1 until there is only one stitch left when cutting the yarn?
thanks for your help.
Hello Lori,
Thank you for reaching out! It sounds like something might have gone wrong. Which size are you knitting? When starting this section you should have 40 (40, 40, 44, 44, 44) stitches, once you have finished the right back section you will have 30 (30, 30, 32, 32, 32) stitches. How many stitches are you starting this section with?
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I have a similar confusion about this back neck part.
Overall, for 37.75, I understand that I will reduce from 40 to 20 stitches remaining (10 on each side). But I don’t see exactly how.
For RIGHT BACK NECK
Row 1 (right side): slip 1 wyif, [k1,p1] 4 times, sm, p2tog, turn. [1 stitich decreased]
I see that I will knit 11 stitiches into 10 stitches (1+2×4+2-1). But then do I turn to the next row. Do I need to ignore the other 30 stitches?
Please enlighten me.
Hello Helena,
Thank you for reaching out! You will be going from 40 stitches to 30 stitches, but you will be placing 10 of those stitches on hold. “Cut yarn. Place last 10 stitches on right-hand needle onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Right Back Neck edge. [20 (20, 20, 22, 22, 22) stitches remain]”.
I hope this answers your question, but if it doesn’t let us know!
best,
Marilla
Hi Marilla,
Experienced and confused over here and encountered the same here, it seems, as it decreased,
Row 1 (right side): slip 1 wyif, [k1,p1] 4 times, sm, p2tog, turn. [1 stitich decreased]
Kindly further elaborate and advice?
“placing 10 of those stitches on hold”, is the 2nd 10 stitches from the left back neck? As the 1st 10 stitches, would be,
Right Back Neck section: “Row 1…[k1p1] 4 times, p2tog turn… Repeat Rows 1 and 2 eight times, then repeat Row 1 once more. ”
Since there is a one stitch decrease in each Row 1 there aren’t enough stitches to [k1p1] 4 times after the first row – is that correct?
The patterns looks weird. As you said, something is wrong, as per the pattern instruction, this was written, is there an error?
Greatly appreciate your advice.
Thank you.
Lilian
Hi Lilian,
I hope I can help clear this up! Your p2tog will always be after the marker, which is placed after the ribbing, so the ribbing will not be affected; instead, your p2tog will be worked across the gap left by the previous short row and moving one stitch further into the body of the sweater with each repeat. If you have knit socks before, the process is very similar to a traditional short row heel turn! When you turn to work Row 2, you will always have the same number of stitches to the left of the marker, so you will have enough stitches to work the ribbing. Your final row will be Row 1, and you will put the 10 stitches you just worked in that Row 1 on your stitch holder.
Please let me know if you have any further questions!
Julianna
I should know to leave well enough alone. However, I can’t help but ask this question as I love the design of this piece:
I know it would change the look, feel, and drape of this garment, but could it be done it cattail silk or field linen, still using size 6 needles? I can picture a lighter, more fluid drape to this.
What do you think?
Hello Janice,
Thank you for reaching out! Because these yarns are so much thinner than Worsted Twist, even if you knit these yarns with a US6 the gauge will still come out much smaller than required. Even if you were to doubled Cattail Silk your gauge will still be to small for this project.
Unfortunately the gauges are just to far off to really make this work.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Is there a reason the body is joined in the round, or could the back and front be knitted separately?
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing in! By working the body in the round, you avoid having to sew side seams; however, if you don’t mind sewing, you could certainly work the front and back separately! Since you will lose a stitch in the seam, I would add two stitches to each the front and the back for the selvage.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I’m interested in making this with a lightly higher front opening. How can I do that and still have the correct stitch count for the shoulders? Thank you!
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for reaching out! When working the Left Front and Right Front, after completing all the shaping, the straps are worked straight before joining them to the back, so you could work the straps a bit shorter to raise the front neck line. This will also make the armhole somewhat shallower, but won’t interfere with any of the shaping.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Your shaping is exquisite!
New knitter here! I am confused by this direction. Could you clarify this? Specifically the direction relating to “then every 4th row”.
Working in established pattern, repeat Decrease Row every right-side row 8 (12, 9, 15, 17, 19) more times, then every 4th row 3 (1, 4, 2, 2, 1) time(s). [20 (20, 20, 20, 20, 22) stitches remain]
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for reaching out! This instruction means that, after working the decrease row on every right side row the indicated number of times for your size, you will then work the decrease row every fourth row – in other words, you will work three rows, a wrong side row, a right side row, and another wrong side row, without decreases, in between each decrease row until you have the correct number of stitches.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hermoso diseño, podrian enviar el patron en español, desde ya muchas gracias
Delia
Hi Delia,
Thanks for writing in! At present, our patterns are only available in English. We certainly appreciate the request!
Best,
Julianna
I just love this, but like others I live in a hot climate, winter in cold, I wonder if it could be made with sleeves, big ask, but it’s truly lovely.
Hi Penelope,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have instructions for adding sleeves to this top, but I will certainly pass your request along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Would the new Linen Quill Worsted be suitable for this piece? I’ve fallen in love with one of the colors and don’t have a lot of experience yet with selecting yarns other than prescribed! Thanks!
Hi Monique,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, Linen Quill Worsted should be a wonderful alternative for this top! Whenever considering a yarn substitution, I find it helpful to compare the gauge for the original yarn and the yarn you are considering. In this case, Worsted Twist usually knits up at 4.5 – 5 stitches per inch on a US 7 to 8, while Linen Quill Worsted comes out to 4.75 – 5 stitches per inch on a US 6 or 7. Although you will still have to knit a gauge swatch to make sure, it’s safe to say that you will probably be able to obtain the correct gauge for the pattern since the stitches per inch for both yarns are so similar!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello
Please how translate in French please ?
Thanks for your help
Hi Christine,
We don’t currently have the resources to translate our patterns into multiple languages, but hopefully this will be a possibility at some point in the future. I’ll certainly pass along your request for a French version of the pattern!
Best,
Cassandra
The item looks great, and I’m going to try. But I wonder does it really takes 700 grams of yarns for the biggest size? Like a whole piece with sleeves.
Thank you.
Hi Svetlana,
Thank you for writing in! Yes, the largest size of this sleeveless top calls for around 1035 yards, or 640g, which will require seven 100g skeins of Worsted Twist. A helpful trick I’ve learned is that the sleeves of a garment will account for approximately 33% of its yardage; if a large sweater with sleeves requires around 1000g of yarn, then it works out that a sleeveless garment will use around 700g. I hope this is helpful!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
Hi
Would it be possible to knit this in two halves as I don’t have any circular needles and unable to get them with the lockdown situation. If you have a pattern for this that would be great as I have wool and standard needles and I’m itching to get going on this lovely top.
Thanks
Hi Louise,
Thank you for reaching out with this question! Unfortunately we do not have a pattern for this top which does not require circular needles at this time. However, we do have Addi Bamboo needles in stock in all the sizes required for this project, as well as complimentary domestic shipping. Another option for the avid knitter is an Addi interchangeable needle set!
I hope this was helpful, and happy knitting!
Gaby
Hi
Love this pattern but I’m going it alone! I hope this doesn’t sound too silly. I’m working the cable cross and divide front section and I’m up to row 4. Am I supposed to break the yarn after putting my stitches on scrap yarn in order to continue working the remaining stitches or do I just continue with the yarn that is connected to the work?
Annie
Hi Annemarie,
Thank you for reaching out with this great question! In Row 4 you will be putting your previously knit stitches ‘on hold’, moving them from your right needle onto a stitch holder or scrap yarn. As a result, your active yarn should be coming out of the leftmost ‘on hold’ stitch, which is the last stitch that you knit, and in the perfect position to continue using it to work the remaining stitches. I hope that makes sense and is helpful!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
Hi there I’m just separating at the under arms and it seems like after I bind off on the left side I’m knitting a purl stitch and then have an extra stitch before the marker? The pattern says cast off 8 in pattern k1 p1 x4 but should it be p1 k1 p1 x4? Thanks
Hi Heather
Thanks for writing in! When you get to the Divide Body directions, Division Round: [P1, k1] 6 times, p1, sm, purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, p1, bind off 8 stitches in pattern for Left Underarm (removing Left Side marker), [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, p2, [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, p1, bind off 8 stitches in pattern for Right Underarm (removing end-of-round marker). I think what is happening is you are starting your bind off one stitch too early. After you [p1, k1] 4 times, p1, the next stitch is a knit, you will purl the next stitch and then start your bind off with these 2 stitches. There should be 9 stitches after the marker, then 8 bound off stitches, then another 9 before the next marker. I hope this explains it!
Happy knitting
Jessica
I have a question about the directions for shaping the neckline. After repeating the decrease row every right-side row 8 times (for the smallest size) , the pattern says to decrease every 4th row three times. That means the decrease row would be a wrong-side row for these last three decreases. So should I k2tog immediately after slipping the first marker for the last three decreases? Or should I actually be decreasing every THIRD row (right-side rows) and then knitting one wrong-side row before proceeding to the next section?
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! The decrease rows should all be worked on the right side. When decreasing every fourth row, you will start counting on the wrong side row immediately following a right side decrease row, so rows 1 and 3 will be wrong side rows, and rows 2 and 4 will be right side rows. Usually, when counting rows right side rows as odd-numbered rows and wrong side rows as even-numbered rows, so it can be a little confusing to switch things up when counting rows for decreases like this!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I am working on the front part and have finished shaping the armhole and getting ready to work the cable. I’m confused about the « Work 1 wrong-side row even. » Please explain.
Thank you.
Hi Lise,
Thanks for writing in! This just means that you will knit one wrong side row in the established pattern – knitting your knits and purling your purls – without increasing or decreasing.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I have divided the fronts and started working on the first half of the front. Unfortunately, I misread the pattern and started with the right front instead of the left front. I don’t really want to pull out the work that I have done to date. Will I have to do anything differently when I start on the left front?
Hi Lise,
Thanks for writing in! Although it’s never ideal, if you are following the instructions for the Left Front on the Right Front stitches, I would probably recommend going back just to where you worked the cable and separated the two fronts. The shaping on the two pieces are mirrored, so I would hate for the shape of your neckline or armhole to turn out incorrectly! This will also mean you can follow the rest of the pattern as written without worrying about whether the two fronts will match.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I love the look of this Criss Cross top, but was wondering if you could recommend a soft, non itchy yarn (cotton, cashmere, even a synthetic so long as it’s soft). I can’t wear sheep or alpaca. Thanks!
Hi Beverly,
Thanks for writing in! Blue Sky Worsted Cotton, Cashmere Tend, and Jade Sapphire 8-Ply Cashmere are all wonderful wool and alpaca free options for this top!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Could this be made with one of the silk containing yarns? Thinking about the Cattail Silk knowing another top uses two together.
Is it possible to see the 87 comments provided earlier? I might be asking the same question as someone else.
Hi Leslie,
Thanks for reaching out! I apologize that our comments are not currently available, but our web team is hard at work to get them back! It sounds like you are thinking of our Sayer top, which uses Cattail Silk held double. However, even held double, Cattail Silk will be a little thin for the Criss Cross Top. For Sayer, on a US 7, our gauge was 20 stitches to 4 inches, but this top calls for 18 stitches to 4 inches, so the fabric would probably be a little sheer or loosely knit if you sized up the needles to obtain the correct gauge. Instead, I would recommend trying our Spectrum Silk held double! It is a gorgeous mostly matte 100% silk, and it is slightly thicker than Cattail Silk, so I think you will have an easier time getting to the right gauge! Another option would be Burnish, which feels and drapes very much like silk, but is a rayon from bamboo. You would also need to use this yarn held double.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I love this pattern but don’t know how to knit in the round. Do you have pattern instructions for straight needles?
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! At this time we only offer instructions for working the pattern in the round, but thank you for expressing your interest! I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
Looks beautiful, what is the difficulty level of this top?
Hi Kit,
Thanks for reaching out! I would say this is an intermediate pattern!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi are you able to knit this with straight needles?
Hi Lesley,
Thanks for reaching out! I wouldn’t recommend using straight needles for this pattern, since you work the body in the round (and we only offer instructions for working this in the round), I think it would be a bit too complicated to try to re-work the pattern to knit this flat on straight needles!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
Salve, i vostri modelli sembrano interessanti ma sarebbe opportuno che venissero integrati con le trasformazioni da pollici in centimetri e con le tg. europee. Grazie e complimenti
Hi Grazia,
Thanks for reaching out! Thanks for reaching out! We totally hear you regarding metric sizes and measurements. This is something that is currently under consideration, so we really appreciate your input!
Warmly,
Gianna
Left front – have completed the Decrease Row every right side row 9 more times [ right and wrong side rows] and am ready to do the every 4th row 4 times. Have I done one too many wrong side rows? Every 4th row now will take me to a wrong side row to decrease.
Also, is there any reason why I can’t join the back neck borders together before finishing the rest of the front? The extra 36 inches is a nuisance.
Am really liking this top so far.
Many thanks,
Wendy
Sorry to bother you again, but no sooner hit the send button than it occurred to me that row number 9 of the wrong side was actually row number 1 of the “every 4th row decrease 4 times ending on a wrong side row with 20 stitches. [ Left Front.]
Tried that and after only 10 rows am down to 20 stitches.Now I am not too sure where I should start counting the “every 4th row” from.
Should mention that I am doing size 37 – 39. For my bamboo/silk yarn I went up a size and down a needle to get the gauge I wanted.
Feel a bit foolish, this is such a well written pattern. Very clear and easy to follow. Maybe I need more chocolate??? to wake up my brain?
Many thanks once again.
Wendy
Hi Wendy,
Thanks for reaching out! I think there is a bit of confusion about the rows, and unfortunately, I think you may need to take your work back to the beginning of the decrease rows. Basically you will repeat the Decrease Row every right-side row, 9 more times, not row 9, and not decreasing every, only right sides. Once you do that, you will then repeat the Decrease Row every 4th row, 4 more times, ending on a wrong-side row with 20 stitches remaining. You should start counting every 4 rows once you finish the decreases 9 times. Also, please keep in mind you only work the decreases on the right-side rows, never the wrong side. I think this is why you are down to 20 stitches after only 10 rows.
I hope this clears things up and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
It seem to me I should continue to decrease at armhole as well as neckline as there doesn’t seem to be enough decreases to get the correct stitch count. What am I missing here?
Hi Kim,
Thanks for writing in! Could you please let me know which part of the pattern exactly you are running into trouble along with the size you are making? This could help us better understand where we can help you out.
All the best,
Gavriella
I love this pattern and am in the process of attaching the front and back shoulders. I’ve tried to do this multiple times, trying to figure out how to knit the live stitch, then the selvedge stitch, drop the live stitch and go into the second live stitch and the same selvedge stitch. I end up catching up other stitches, three stitches instead of two on the right needle. I’m finding this the most difficult part of the whole pattern. Could I go into the first two live stitches and into the selvedge as a way to match two live stitches to the one selvedge stitch? Or am I missing something? Why am I finding this so difficult? Thanks!!!!!
Hi Nancy!
Thank you so much for your question! We went ahead and looked at the part of the pattern you are working on and decided that we could better help you out over email. This is a very size-specific pattern, so if you could send us the size you are working on, and some photos of your work to [email protected], we would be more than happy to help you proceed from there!
Best,
Margaret
Possible error. DIVIDE BODY
Division Round: [P1, k1] 6 times, p1, sm, purl to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, p1, bind off 8 stitches in pattern for Left Underarm (removing Left Side marker), [k1, p1] 4 times, sm
After (removing left side marker), P1, {K1,P1} 4 times, sm
Hi Patty!
Thank you for your post. We’re not sure if you’re proposing an edit or inquiring about a typo or an extra stitch on your needles, and wanted to double check!
The division round should end with 84 (92, 100, 108, 116, 124) stitches left on your needles each for Front and Back. In addition, there is one purled stitch before binding off the 8 stitches in pattern for Left Underarm, so perhaps this is where the purl stitch you pointed out is located!
I hope this helps in the meantime, and please feel free to let us know if you have any other questions about this pattern!
All the best,
Margaret
I just finished this top and it is perfect! What a lovely design and well written pattern. It fits perfectly. This will be a long time favorite, I can tell. Thank you for this pattern.
I love the look of this pattern, understated and classic yet sleeveless. I would like to make this top for my daughter as a gift, but in a yarn more suitable for the hot LA climate than a merino wool. Can you recommend a cool cotton or linen yarn that would meet the gauge requirements of this pattern?
Hi Victoria!
Thank you for your question. I would recommend Tulip Cotton or Sunshower Cotton for a cotton alternative at this gauge! Tulip Cotton is a wonderful worsted weight cotton that would be lovely for a cool version of this top, while Sunshower Cotton is a smidge more fluffy and would provide a unique look with its stippled coloring. You really can’t go wrong with either of these two yarns!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi! Any tips or tricks for making gauge? I’m using the worsted twist and I’ve knit swatches using size 6 and size 5 needles. Still not making gauge and think size 4 needles would be very tight. Would you recommend a lighter weight yarn?
Hi Carlye,
Thanks for reaching out! I actually would recommend giving the size 4s a try. If your gauge is still too loose on size 5s, then it likely will be much closer on the 4s! Let me know how it goes!
All the best,
Lili
Could this pattern be knitted up in a fingering weight yarn?
Hi Terry,
Because this pattern I designed for a much thicker yarn, I wouldn’t recommend knitting it in a fingering weight yarn! If you have a fingering weight on hand though, I’d recommend testing it out by knitting up a swatch. If you’re able to achieve the gauge (20 stitches and 31 rows = 4 inches in reverse stockinette stitch) and are satisfied with the texture and density of the knit fabric, then I’d say go for it! But the stitches will feel very loose and airy since the yarn is thinner.
All the best,
Lili
Please help,
I am stuck at the Right Front : Shape armholes + Neckline
1)
For size 34 1/2, …
It seems like the left front is decreased 2 stitches in row 1, but the Right front is decreased only 1 stitch.
For left front repeat row 1 (size 34 1/2) 1 more time but the right front Zero decreased
Thank you
Hi Nga,
Thanks for reaching out! The RIGHT FRONT is also decreased by 2 stitches in Row 1; there is a p2tog near the beginning of the row and an ssp near the end. I’ve bolded these stitches in the instructions below so you’re sure to catch them both:
Row 1 (right side): With right side facing you, slip 1 stitch to right-hand needle, join new yarn and [k1, p1] 4 times, sm, p2tog, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssp, sm, [p1, k1] 4 times, k1. [34 (36, 40, 40, 42, 43) stitches remain]
In answer to your other question, the RIGHT and LEFT FRONT sections are written a bit differently to account for different factors, but they do amount to the same number of rows in the end! Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I bought from you last year widgeon fine Falkland merino. Do you think it is suitable for this pattern? Could you recommend a vest pattern that would work with this yarn?
Hi Joan,
This pattern is designed for a worsted weight yarn, so unfortunately, Wigeon will be too thin, since it’s sportweight. We do have a vest pattern written for a sportweight yarn though, and you can find it right here!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, I have 5 skeins of Santolina yarn from a previous purchase and am wondering if this is a good substitute for this project. My mother is a more experienced knitter and interested in taking this on. If not, is there another vest pattern that would be suitable for this yarn?
Thank you!
Hi Lisa,
That’s a great question. Santolina held alone would be too thin for this project but you could hold it doubled for a similar thickness to the yarn used in this pattern. I’d recommend making a small gauge swatch just to make sure you are able to achieve gauge and to be sure you are happy with the fabric. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gavriella