Top + Bottom Top
We could quote plenty of famous creative people.. fashion designers, writers, architects, artists, artisans, musicians… on the importance of paying attention to details. Perhaps the best-known phrase is attributed to German architect Mies Van der Rohe, who probably borrowed his “God is in the details” from someone else, who may have said something slightly different. Whatever the case, the point is, details matter.
So what does this have to do with our Top + Bottom Top? Everything. At first glance, this lovely little pullover, perfect for summer knitting and wearing, looks like just that: a lovely little pullover. Simplicity itself. And it is.
But there are design elements that give our Top + Bottom Top quiet gravitas: the wisp of a hem around the bottom, shoulder seams that skew to the back, and pretty armhole and neckline decreases. It’s the kind of sweater your impeccably stylish friend would own… And you’d want to borrow.
It’s no surprise that Cattail Silk, a yarn spun and dyed in Japan, is knitted throughout, beginning with an ephemeral hem. We used the color Flower Field Gray to make it, then picked up another Japanese beauty, the raw and refined Field Linen in Queen Anne’s Lace, to knit the piece in the round to the underarms. Working the front and back yoke in just the Cattail Silk creates a seamless shift in weight and texture.
Both yarns are available in palettes that complement each other no matter the combination. There are 18 different shades of Cattail Silk and 11 colors of Field Linen to choose from, so pick your favorites and cast on for your summertime Top + Bottom Top!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoTopAndBottomTop, #PurlSohoCattailSilk, and #PurlSohoFieldLinen. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Yarn A: 1 (2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Cattail Silk, 100% silk. Each skein is 618 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 580 (670, 735, 790) (860, 930, 1005, 1105) yards required. We used the color Flower Field Gray.
- Yarn B: 2 (2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 3, 3) skeins of Purl Soho’s Field Linen, 100% linen. Each skein is 295 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 370 (430, 470, 505) (550, 590, 645, 705) yards required. We used the color Queen Anne’s Lace.
- US 6 (4 mm), 32- or 40-inch circular needles
- US 3 (3.25 mm), 32- or 40-inch circular needles
- US 3, 16-inch circular needles
- Two spare US 3 double pointed needles (optional, for finishing)
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- Two removable stitch markers
- A stitch marker
Gauge
- 28 stitches and 32 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch with Yarn A and smaller needles
- 22 stitches and 27 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, holding Yarn A and Yarn B together and using larger needles
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
33¾ (38¼, 42½, 45¾) (50¼, 54½, 57¾, 62¼)
To fit actual chest circumference of 29-32 (33-36, 37-40, 41-44)(45-48, 49-52, 53-56, 57-60) inches, with approximately 2-5 inches of positive ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 33¾ (38¼, 42½, 45¾) (50¼, 54½, 57¾, 62¼) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 22¼ (22¾, 23, 23¼) (23½, 23¾, 24¼, 24¾) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 14 (14, 13½, 13¼) (13, 13, 13, 13¼) inches
SAMPLE: The top pictured here is size 38¼, worn with 2 inches of ease.
Notes
Construction
You will work this garment in the round from bottom edge to underarms, then divide Front and Back and work each separately.
Special Instructions
Csd (Centered Single Decrease)
NOTE: Visit our Centered Single Decrease Tutorial for more help with this technique.
Slip 2 stitches knitwise, one at a time. Insert left needle into front of two slipped stitches, knit together. Next, insert left needle into second of just-decreased stitches, k2tog (next stitch on left needle and stitch you just picked up). [1 stitch decreased]
K3tog (Knit 3 Together)
Insert right needle into next three stitches and knit together. [2 stitches decreased]
Ssp (Slip, Slip, Purl)
NOTE: Our Purl 2 Together (p2tog) + Slip Slip Purl (ssp) Tutorial describes this decrease in greater detail.
Slip one purlwise, slip one knitwise, replace slipped stitches back onto left needle, p2tog through the back loop. [1 stitch decreased]
Sssk (Slip, Slip, Slip, Knit)
Slip three stitches knitwise, one at a time. Insert left needle into front of slipped stitches and knit together. [2 stitches decreased]
Pattern
Body
With Yarn A, cast 248 (280, 312, 336) (368, 400, 424, 456) stitches onto longer, smaller circular needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place marker (pm) and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures ¾ inch from cast-on edge.
Change to larger needles and join Yarn B. Continue with Yarns A and B held together.
Decrease Round: *K1, csd (see Special Instructions), repeat from * to end of round. [186 (210, 234, 252) (276, 300, 318, 342) stitches remain]
Continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 14 (14, 13½, 13¼) (13, 13, 13, 13¼) inches from cast-on edge.
Divide Front + Back
Division Round: Bind off 11 (11, 13, 15) (19, 23, 25, 27) stitches for Right Underarm; k81 (93, 103, 110) (118, 126, 133, 143), place previous 82 (94, 104, 111) (119, 127, 134, 144) stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn for Back; bind off 11 (11, 13, 15) (19, 23, 25, 27) stitches for Left Underarm; knit to end of round. [82 (94, 104, 111) (119, 127, 134, 144) stitches remain for Front]
Front
Shape Armholes
NOTE: You will now work back and forth on just the Front stitches, turning the work at the end of each row.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Cut Yarn B.
Change to shorter, smaller circular needles and continue with only Yarn A.
Row 1 (right side): K1 (1, 2, 0) (2, 1, 2, 0), *knit front and back (kfb), k2, repeat from * to end of row. [109 (125, 138, 148) (158, 169, 178, 192) stitches]
Row 2 (wrong side): P4, purl 2 together (p2tog), purl to last 6 stitches, ssp (see Special Instructions), purl to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 3: K4, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to last 6 stitches, knit 2 together (k2tog), knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 zero (2, 5, 6) (7, 9, 10, 12) more times. [105 (113, 114, 120) (126, 129, 134, 140) stitches remain]
Next Row: Purl to end of row.
Next Row: Repeat Row 3. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat previous two rows 0 (2, 1, 1) (2, 3, 3, 2) more time(s). [103 (107, 110, 116) (120, 121, 126, 134) stitches remain]
Next Row: Purl to end of row.
Next Row: Knit to end of row.
Next Row: Purl to end of row.
Next Row: Repeat Row 3. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat previous four rows 1 (2, 1, 1) (1, 0, 0, 0) more time(s). [99 (101, 106, 112) (116, 119, 124, 132) stitches remain]
Continue
Still working on Front stitches only, continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 5½ (6, 6¾, 7) (7¼, 7½, 8, 8¼) inches from Division Round.
Bind off for Front Neckline
Bind-Off Row (right side): K38 (38, 40, 43) (44, 45, 47, 51), place previous 38 (38, 40, 43) (44, 45, 47, 51) stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn for Front Left; bind off following 23 (25, 26, 26) (28, 29, 30, 30) stitches for Front Neckline; knit to end of row. [38 (38, 40, 43) (44, 45, 47, 51) stitches remain for Front Right]
Work Front Right
NOTE: For a clean neck edge, use a Sloped Bind Off.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Bind off 3 stitches, knit to end of row. [35 (35, 37, 40) (41, 42, 44, 48) stitches remain]
Row 2 (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Row 3: Bind off 2 stitches, k4, ssk, knit to end of row. [32 (32, 34, 37) (38, 39, 41, 45) stitches remain]
Row 4: Purl to end of row.
Row 5: Bind off 1 stitch, k3, ssk, knit to end of row. [30 (30, 32, 35) (36, 37, 39, 43) stitches remain]
Row 6: Purl to end of row.
Row 7: K4, ssk, knit to end of row. [1 stitch decreased]
Rows 8 and 9: Repeat Rows 6 and 7. [28 (28, 30, 33) (34, 35, 37, 41) stitches remain]
Work 3 rows even in stockinette stitch.
Next Row (right side): Repeat Row 7. [27 (27, 29, 32) (33, 34, 36, 40) stitches remain]
Work even in stockinette until piece measures 9 (9½, 10¼, 10½) (11, 11¼, 11¾, 12) inches from Division Row, ending with a wrong-side row.
Place stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn.
Cut yarn, leaving a 20-inch tail.
Work Front Left
With right side facing you and using shorter, smaller circular needles, join Yarn A.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 3 stitches purlwise, purl to end of row. [35 (35, 37, 40) (41, 42, 44, 48) stitches remain]
Row 3: Knit to end of row.
Row 4: Bind off 2 stitches purlwise, p4, p2tog, purl to end of row. [32 (32, 34, 37) (38, 39, 41, 45) stitches remain]
Row 5: Knit to end of row.
Row 6: Bind off 1 stitch purlwise, p3, p2tog, purl to end of row. [30 (30, 32, 35) (36, 37, 39, 43) stitches remain]
Row 7: Knit to end of row.
Row 8: P4, p2tog, purl to end of row. [1 stitch decreased]
Rows 9 and 10: Repeat Rows 7 and 8. [28 (28, 30, 33) (34, 35, 37, 41) stitches remain]
Work 3 rows even in stockinette stitch.
Next Row (wrong side): Repeat Row 8. [27 (27, 29, 32) (33, 34, 36, 40) stitches remain]
Work even in stockinette until piece measures 9 (9½, 10¼, 10½) (11, 11¼, 11¾, 12) inches from Division Round, ending with a wrong-side row.
Place stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn.
Cut yarn, leaving a 20-inch tail.
Back
Shape Armholes
With Yarn A and shorter, smaller circular needles, work as for Shape Armholes section of FRONT.
Continue
Continue even in stockinette stitch until piece measures 4 (4½, 5¼, 5½) (6, 6¼, 6¾, 7) inches from Division Round, ending with a right-side row.
Mark first and last stitch of last row worked with a removable stitch marker.
Work 9 more rows in stockinette stitch, ending with a wrong-side row.
Shape Back Shoulders
Row 1 (right side): K4, sssk (see Special Instructions), knit to last 7 stitches, k3tog (see Special Instructions), k4. [4 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): P4, p2tog, purl to last 6 stitches, ssp, p4. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 eight (8, 8, 9) (9, 9, 10, 10) more times. [45 (47, 52, 52) (56, 59, 58, 66) stitches remain]
Do not cut yarn.
Finishing
Seam Shoulders
Left Shoulder
Slip on-hold Front Left stitches onto a double pointed needle and hold in front of and parallel to Back Shoulder edge. Working from Armhole towards Neckline, use Yarn A and a second double pointed needle to graft Front Left stitches to Back Shoulder by working the stitches on the double pointed needle and picking up into the Back Shoulder and binding off as you go. Here’s how…
… inserting second double pointed needle into first stitch on front needle and under both legs of first stitch at edge of Back Shoulder, marked by removable stitch marker.
Knit together stitch through front needle and Back Shoulder stitches, using 20-inch yarn tail from Front Left.
Repeat these steps, knitting next stitch from front needle together with next stitch along Back Shoulder edge.
Now that you have two stitches on working needle, bind one off.
Continue working Front Left stitches together with Back Shoulder stitches, binding off as you go.
Right Shoulder
Slip on-hold Front Right stitches onto a double pointed needle and graft Front Right stitches to parallel Back Shoulder as for Left Shoulder, working this time from Neckline towards Armhole.
Neckline Edge
With right side of Back facing you and returning to remaining Back stitches, use yarn that is still attached to bind off all Back stitches. Continuing around Neckline, pick up and knit 1 stitch into each row or stitch, binding off as you go.
Armhole Edges
With right side facing you, join Yarn A at center of Underarm and use double pointed needles to pick up and knit 1 stitch into each stitch or row around entire Armhole edge, binding off as you go.
Repeat for other Armhole.
Weave In + Block
Weave in remaining ends and gently wet block.
I would like to make this sweater with the cattail silk in blue bamboo. What color do you suggest to go with it in the linen? What is the difficulty level of this pattern. I am an average knitter.
Thank you! Debra
Hello Debra,
Thank you for reaching out! I think that Blue Bamboo would look beautiful with either Queen Anne’s Lace or Blue Verbena. In terms of level, I think this top is appropriate for an advanced beginner/ Intermediate. If you are feeling unsure you could always try out some of the techniques used in this pattern on test swatches to practice, though I think you will be able to handle it. Plus if you have any questions along the way we are happy to help!
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I would like to knit this sweater with the field linen Wheat Berry. What color of cattail silk do you suggest to go with it?
Hello Claudia,
Thank you for reaching out! I think this could be nice with either Golden Oak or Rabbit-Ear for a pink contrast.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thanks, Marilla! I have the same question for field linen Blue Verbena. I planned to mix it with Blue Bamboo, but I’ afraid it is out of stock. Could be Patina Blue or Moon White good options?
Hello Claudia,
Thank you for reaching out! I think that Patina Blue would be lovely knit up with Blue Verbena!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I am looking forward to knitting this top. I’m just doing the gauge swatch now with cattail silk and used a knitted cast on. The bottom hem is too loopy and loose. What cast on do you recommend so that it comes out looking like the photo. I am a beginner/intermediate knitter. Thanks!
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing in! We use a Long Tail Cast On for most of our projects – it provides a stable yet elastic edge that is quite attractive and works great for garments! A Cable Cast On would also be suitable, and would not have the loose appearance of a knitted cast on.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thanks! I’ll try the cable cast on, which I like very much. I can never calculate the correct amount of yarn for the long tail.
Hi, Is it possible to make this pattern with both yarns for the entire pullover? How would I calculate for the armholes and neckline decreases if so?
Thank you so much
Erica
Hi Erica,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, changing this pattern to be worked in the larger gauge throughout would require extensive pattern alteration which we are unable to do in the comments. If you would like to take a stab at it yourself, our Over-the-Top Top is written for the same larger gauge, so although the construction is different, you may be able to find some guidance on how many stitches to cast off and decrease for the neckline.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you, Julianna. I managed it! Loved the result!
Is it possible to add sleeves..love the pattern ..but must have sleeves !
Hi Sandy,
Thanks for reaching out! While we don’t have instructions for adding sleeves to this top, you might find some inspiration from our Striped Summer Top. Since they are worked at a similar gauge, I think you could possibly follow the armhole instructions from the Striped Summer Top while working the neckline instructions for the Top + Bottom Top to create sleeves with a nice dropped shoulder!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thanks Julianna. I ordered the porcelain white to go with the natural flax. I received my package today and I am very happy with that combo. The porcelain is more of a light beige and goes really well with the flax. Can’t wait to get knitting.
Carolyn
on page 12 there are several purl rows in the pattern from the arm pit to the neckline, but when looking at the photo, it’s all stocking stitch. If we were using long needles, this would make sense, but the pattern only calls for circular needles. Am I supposed to switch to straight needles even tho they are not listed in the materials?
Hi Alyson,
Thanks for reaching out! Although the majority of the top is knitted in the round, when starting the front yoke and armhole shaping, there is a note that you will no longer be working in the round and will be working back and forth in rows for the following few sections. This can still be done on circular needles so there is no need to switch to a different type of needle even though you won’t be working in the round.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I made this top using the cinnamon bark and wheat berry combination, and I love the fit of the top. Would you tell me whether this top can be made using wool yarn?
Thanks.
Hi Claudette,
I’m so glad that you are happy with your finished top! You could certainly make this with wool as long as you match the gauge in the pattern. I would suggest trying Linen Quill as a substitute for Cattail Silk and Line Weight instead of Field Linen!
Best,
Julianna
Thank you so much!!
I’ve had my eye on this pattern for awhile and can’t decide to go with colors as is or change it to Field linen Natural flax and don’t know which woul go better on top, CatTail porcelain white or Moon white. It’s hard to tell from the photos. Which is a warmer color?
Hi Carolyn,
Thanks for reaching out! Most of the colors of Field Linen and Cattail Silk coordinate quite well, so it’s hard to go wrong! Both Moon White and Porcelain White have warm undertones, but the warmth is more pronounced in Porcelain White. It is also a few shades darker than Moon White, so I think it might be a better match with Natural Flax.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
hi purl,
i love this pattern! thank you for sharing it. but unfortunately i’m not a fan of silk. could it work to use linen quill for the bottom and field linen for the top? or vice versa? if not, could you just switch the cattail silk for the bottom and field linen for the top?
many thanks,
beth
Hi Beth,
Thanks for writing in! Cattail Silk, Field Linen, and Linen Quill all knit up to the same gauge, so they are quite easy to interchange in this top! You should always knit a gauge swatch just to be sure, but you could use either all Linen Quill, held double for the bottom portion and held single for the top, or use a strand of Field Linen and a strand of Linen Quill for the bottom and a single strand of either for the top.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Do you suggest a wooden needle rather than metal due to the yarns being slippery ?
Thanks for your time.
Hello Debbie,
Thank you for reaching out! This top can be knit up with either metal or bamboo. I would say that Cattail Silk is not as slippery as many other silk yarns.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m working on this beautiful blouse in “Natural Flax” Field Linen and “Greenfinch Yellow” Cattail Silk. It’s so pretty! My only concern is that I feel I may not have enough Cattail Silk. I’m about 2″ up on the front where using only Silk begins and my yarn supply seems really low. I’m doing the second smallest size (35) and bought one skein of the Silk as indicated in the pattern. Should I be concerned? (-might I have walked out of the store with only 1/2 of the skein wound up??)
The weight of the remaining Silk yarn is about 15 grams (or 1/2 ounce). Thank you!
Hello Kirsten,
Thank you for reaching out! Do you have access to a scale? I would weigh out all of the silk that you have in grams and write to customerservice@purlsoho.com letting them know about your situation.
Good luck and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’ve been eyeing this pattern for a few months, and just saw the shawl you posted in the linen quill. I’m wondering if the linen quill would work on this instead of the Field Linen? There’s so many more color choices.
Hello JoAnn,
Thank you for reaching out! You could use Linen Quill, but with the wool and Alpaca content will give you a fluffier texture.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
What color would work with the Willow Tea in the Field Linen. (I’m deciding against the wool content % in the Linen Quill for a summer top)
Hello JoAnn,
Thank you for reaching out! I think that Silver Thistle or Blue Verbena would be stunning with Willow Tea.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
On the below section relating to back stitches—-am I breaking yarn to do two right rows consecutively and two wrong rows consecutively.?
CONTINUE
Continue evenly in stockinette stitch until piece measures 4 (4¼, 4½, 5, 5¼, 5½) inches from Underarm, ending with a right (wrong, right, right, wrong, wrong)-side row.
Hi Tammy,
Thanks for writing in! This step is indicating that the ending row will be different depending on what size you are knitting – for instance, if you are knitting the smallest size, you will end with a right side row. If you are knitting the second smallest size, you will end with a wrong side row, and so on.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Ciao potete spiegarmi nel pattern cosa significa( wrong , right, right, wrong, wrong) – side row ? Sono bloccata a questo punto è non riesco a proseguire…..
Hi Eleanora,
Thanks for writing in! In this case, the “wrong side” refers to the inside of the shirt (which should look like purl bumps) and the right side refers to the outside of the shirt (which will look like stockinette stitch with the v’s).
The step you’re on is indicating that the ending row will be different depending on what size you are knitting – for instance, if you are knitting the smallest size, you will end with a right side row. If you are knitting the second smallest size, you will end with a wrong side row, and so on. If you’re not sure which you should be on, just let us know your size and we’d be happy to clarify!
All the best,
Zha Zha
Hello!
I was wondering what cast-on method would be the best for this top.?
Thank you!
Hello Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! We used a Long Tail cast on for this top.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi there, I’m interested in making this in the colours specified but I’m wondering why in the photos of the completed top the Field Linen in Queen Annes Lace is a flecked yarn but the photos of the skein appear to be a plain cream colour. Could you please clarify for me which photo is more accurate. (I really love the look of the two flecked yarns together)
Thanks
Hi Helen,
Great question! For this lovely top, two different yarns are used; Cattail Silk and Field Linen. The Cattail Silk color that we used is flecked and the Field Linen is the plain cream color. For the very bottom and the top of the garment, the Cattail Silk is used and for the body, the Cattail Silk is held with the Field Linen giving the whole top a flecked look!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi there!
If I only wanted to use a single strand to knit the bottom half, would I use a light worsted or DK?
Hi Lee,
Thanks for reaching out! You could probably use either a light worsted or DK weight yarn as they are fairly similar, but I would definitely recommend knitting a gauge swatch to make sure your chosen yarn will work!
Best,
Julianna
I have two skeins of Cattail Silk in color Golden Oak and am trying to figure out which color I should use in the Field Linen would look the best.
Thanks!
Hi Debra,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend using Field Linen in Natural Flax along with Golden Oak. Both colors share warm undertones so I think they will look lovely together!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I have the Field Linen in Black Willow. With what Cattail Silk color would coordinate best? Looking forward to a summer sweater to wear in the South!
Thank you,
Helen
Hi Helen,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend adding Cattail Silk in Flower Field Charcoal to match Black Willow. However, if you are looking for a bit of color, I think it would be really pretty to add a dark color like Pine Needle Green or Wild Mulberry!
Best,
Julianna
What color would be likely to combine well with Ink Blue in Field Linen? I assume that using linen and linen would result in less drape in the finished sweater. Is that correct?
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for asking about this! Yes, you’re correct, using all linen would result in less drape in the yoke section of the sweater. I love the contrast of the two textures in this tank top and wouldn’t want to change that! I think the Deep Indigo Cattail Silk would look lovely with the Ink Blue Field Linen. The light specks in the Cattail Silk would almost add a sparkling effect. I hope this helps!
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
I really like your material and the patterns.
I will be getting in touch with you later, once this world wide situation settles down.
Regards
Catherine Aquilina
I am between sizes 38 1/4 and 41 1/2 and my bust measurement is approximately 37″ depending on the bra I am wearing. I usually wear a size medium (US size 10) on top. What would your size recommendation be if I plan to knit this in all silk (no linen)?
Many thanks!
Hi Ana,
Thanks for writing in! Since you are right between sizes, you could choose either one, depending on whether you would like the top a bit on the tighter side or the looser side. Another way to decide is to measure a shirt or top that you already own and like the fit of and compare it to our finished measurements. This will help you get a better idea of how the finished top will fit!
Best,
Julianna
Hello! This is a wonderful and challenging pattern for me as a beginning-intermediate knitter. Thanks to youTube tutorials, I have only made a few mistakes. However, I am now stuck. I am beginning the Back Yoke section. It says to continue only with Yarn A and Work as for Shape Armholes section of Front Yoke. That section says to Purl a row with both yarns on the larger needles, then cut one yarn and change to smaller needles. Am I supposed to ignore the 2 yarns and larger needles part and just Purl with one yarn on the smaller needles?
Thanks!
Hi J J,
Thanks for reaching out! For the Back Yoke, you will be returning to the stitches you placed on hold when you cast off for the underarms and separated the front from the back of the sweater, and the on-hold stitches should still be in both strands of yarn. To repeat this section, you will rejoin both yarns to the held stitches with the wrong side facing and then follow the instructions exactly, beginning by purling one row with both yarns, and then cutting Yarn B to continue in just Yarn A.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
hi,
i’m thinking about making this in a cropped version, around 17 inches long from the shoulder. if i were to make it in size 35 or 38¼ would i still need two skeins of the field linen, or could i get away w one?
thanks!
Hi Tatyana,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend still buying two skeins to be safe but leaving 1 unwound! In the event you don’t end up using it you can return it to us for store credit within 6 months!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hello,
I can’t seem to get the same number of stitches as the first decrease row. K1, csd repeated for the whole round should result in 1/3 fewer stitches. Therefore 66% of 304 is approximately 201 stitches, not the 228 stitches the pattern says I should have arrived at. Please tell me what I am doing wrong.
Thank you.
Hi Dorothy,
Thanks for reaching out! The pattern is correct as written, after completing the decrease row: K1, CSD, repeating till the end of the row you should be left with 228 stitches! I would double check that when working the decrease you are only decreasing one stitch each time. This decrease is a bit more complicated so you may be decreasing more than one stitch at a time leaving you with less stitches.
I hope this helps and please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I really like this pattern and am wondering if you think it will work to knit it in wool and/or cotton, as opposed to silk and linen. Let me know if you have any suggestions on other fibers that would work well with this pattern. Thank you!
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for reaching out! You could use any 2 fingering weight yarns for this pattern! You could use anything from wool or cotton to silk and linen as long as it is a fingering weight! I would recommend checking out all of our Fingering Weight yarns! If you do decide to use a different yarn that the pattern, I always recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to insure that you are consistent with the pattern!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hello
I have a skein of the cattail silk in pale rose. Can you please recommend a color for the field linen that would go well with the pale rose for this top ? I am thinking of the following field linen colors: Queen Anne’s Lace, Silver Thistle . Trowel Gray?..
Appreciate your input😊
Hi MayLing,
Thanks for writing in! Pale Rose is such a pretty color! I think that will be perfect for this top, and I agree with your pairing ideas, I think either Silver Thistle, Queen Anne’s Lace, Trowel Gray, or even Natural Flax would be beautiful!
Please let us know how this turns out, happy knitting!
Gianna
I made this top recently in Queen’s Anne Lace in Field Linen and Flower Field Gray in Cattail Silk. My mom liked this top so much she asked me to make her one but she wants some bolder colors. After looking online, she came up with Fallen Leaves in the Silk and Warm Copper in Field Linen. She does not want these to match in tone exactly but I am wondering if these are a good fit—-so difficult to tell online. Thanks!
Hi Lynn,
Thanks for reaching out! I think Fallen Leaves and Warm Copper will be an absolutely beautiful combination!
Please let us know how this turns out, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi: I just swatched the 2 yarns held together and blocked it by soaking for about 15 min and letting it dry on blocking boards. Before blocking I got 24 st/4″ and after 21 st/4″ on a #6. It’s a bit stiff, does it soften up with wear, I did not put it in the dryer, per the yarn recommendations. Thanks!
Hello! I love this pattern but am stuck between Fallen Leaves + Warm Copper or Galapagos Teal + Patina Blue. Thoughts regarding either combination? Thanks!
Hi DeAnna,
Those are both lovely combinations! I’m particularly drawn to the Galapagos Teal + Patina Blue combo because of the difference in value between those colors. I think that the change between light and dark between sections of the top will be really beautiful!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I’m in love with the Midori Green silk, but I’m a little torn on which linen to pair it with for this. Of Queen Anne’s Lace, Silver Thistle, and Natural Flax, could you recommend which might be the best pairing with the green?
Hi Sasha,
Thanks for reaching out! My preference would be to pair Midori Green with Silver Thistle. This color is the closest match to the neutral-colored flecks in the Cattail Silk. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
What would you recommend as a substitute for Field Linen in this pattern for Top +Bottom?
Hi Ava,
Thank you for writing in! Blackbird Linen would make a great substitute for Field Linen for this pattern!
Happy making,
Gavriella