Beautyberry Blanket
On the cusp of our first frost, it couldn’t be a better time to introduce our newest yarn, big and cozy Gentle Giant, and with it, this cuddly Beautyberry Blanket!
We named our Beautyberry Blanket for the native bush whose bright purple berries linger through winter. In Gentle Giant’s heathered Purple Lupine and glowing Heirloom White, this blanket evokes a soft cover of berry-studded snow, one of nature’s amazing surprises.
A simple stitch pattern and our bulky-weight Gentle Giant make this blanket a quick and fun knit. Whip it up and be ready for frosty weather! -Laura
UPDATE: NOW A COWL IN SUPER SOFT MERINO
DECEMBER 2022
Same beautiful stitch pattern but now in a Super Soft Merino cowl, our Beautyberry Cowl takes is toasty warm without weighing you down! Super Soft Merino comes in over thirty colors, and it only takes three skeins for a once-around cowl or five for the double-wrap version. Pick the shades that will enliven your winter days and cast on!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoBeautyberryBlanket, and #PurlSohoGentleGiant. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Color A: 5 (7, 13) skeins of Purl Soho’s Gentle Giant, 100% merino wool. Each skein is 48 yards/ 125 grams; approximately 240 (336, 624) yards required. We used the color Heirloom White.
- Color B: 2 (3, 6) skeins of Gentle Giant; approximately 96 (144, 288) yards required. We used the color Purple Lupine.
- US 19 (15 mm), 32-inch circular needles
- Two US 17 (12 mm) double pointed needles
Gauge
4¾ stitches = 4 inches in stitch pattern
Sizes
Baby (Crib, Throw)
- Finished dimensions: 24 x 36 (30 x 45, 40 x 60) inches
SAMPLE: We knit the Baby size.
Notes
Knitting into the Stitch Below
k1b [knit one below]: Insert the tip of the right needle into the stitch below the next stitch from front to back, knit normally (wrapping the yarn around the needle and pulling it back through the stitch below) and let the stitch above fall from the left needle.
For more information about this technique, be sure to visit our Working into the Stitch Below Tutorial!
Turn or Slide
Each row in this pattern ends with the instructions to either “turn” or “slide” the work.
- “Turn work” means to do what you would normally do when knitting rows with a circular needle. That is to say, put the needle in your left hand into your right and the needle in your right hand into your left, and flip the work around so the opposite side is facing you.
- “Slide work” means to keep the same side of the work facing you and to push all the stitches to the right end of the circular needle. Without turning the work, start the new row as you normally would.
You will know that you’re doing this right if the yarn you need to complete the next row is magically there waiting for you!
Pattern
UPDATE March 28, 2022: A previous version of this pattern required working into the stitch below directly into the cast-on row, but more than a couple of people found this fiddly to knit. We heard you and have added a knit row before the first stitch-pattern row. If you would like a copy of the previous version, please contact us at customerservice@purlsoho.com.
Begin
With Color A and the circular needles, cast on 27 (35, 45) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): With Color A, k1, *k1b (see Notes, above), k1, repeat from * to end of row, turn work (see Notes, above).
Row 3 (right side): With Color A, k2, *k1b, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1, turn work.
Row 4 (wrong side): With Color B, k1, *k1b, k1, repeat from * to end of row, slide work (see Notes, above).
Row 5 (wrong side): With Color A, k2, *k1b, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1, turn work.
Row 6 (right side): With Color A, k1, *k1b, k1, repeat from * to end of row, slide work.
Row 7 (right side): With Color B, k2, *k1b, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1, turn work.
Repeat Rows 2-7 until piece measures 34 ½ (43 ½ 58 ½) inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 5.
Work Row 6, but bind off as you go. Here’s how…
With Color A, k1, *k1b, slip first stitch over second stitch and off right needle (binding off one), k1, bind off one, repeat from * to end of row.
Cut yarn and pull it through the remaining stitch.
Finish
NOTE: I recommend weaving in the ends before working the Attached I-cord border.
With Color A and the two double pointed needles, work a 2-stitch Attached I-cord around the entire edge of the blanket. With the right side facing you, start at any point of the blanket’s edge and work counter clockwise.
For the long side edges, pick up 2 stitches for every 3 rows.
For the short bottom and top edges, pick up a stitch into every stitch. This means for the bottom row you’ll pick up one stitch for each cast-on stitch, and for the top edge you’ll pick up one stitch for each bound-off stitch.
At each corner, work one row of Attached I-cord, then a row of unattached I-cord, and then another row of Attached I-cord.
When you’ve finished working the Attached I-cord, graft or sew its two ends together.
Weave in the remaining ends and block as desired.
I love this blanket! Would you recommend blocking it before attaching the i- cord or after ? I have done the stitch before and it seemed really tight and didn’t have much stretch. The blanket seems very even all the way around but, since its a baby I must give it a wash.
Thank you again for all your help.
Vciki
Hi Vicki,
Thanks for reaching out! It is really up to you whether or not to block before working the i-cord – we usually don’t, but if you have had problems with the applied i-cord turning out too tight in the past, it might be a good idea. As you are working the i-cord, you can check after the first few inches to see if you are happy with the tension and go up a needle size if necessary.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hey I love this pattern and I’m knitting it for a friend’s daughter – I wanted to put her name in it – what would be the best way to do it?I was thinking that after finishing Row 6 of the pattern above to start a colour block of standard stitches (approx 24 rows) and knit her name with the contrast colour into that section. The first 3 and last 3 rows of that 24 row section are just standard stitches in one colour – for the final row should I knit it according to Row 6 of that section or should I just plain start from Row 1 after completing 24 rows? Sorry if that doesn’t make sense
Hello Stephanie,
Thank you for reaching out – this is such a lovely and cute idea! I think this all sounds good- I would reccomend starting with row 1 when jumping back into the pattern after your 24 rows.
Let us know how it goes and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi! I’m sure you’ve answers this before, but I’m having a terrible time tryin to do the k1b on the 1st row. I’ve tried long tail cast on, and knit cast on. I just can’t find the stich to ge into with out losing everything. Is there a different cast on method or can I knit/Purl a second row and just start from there?
Thanks!
Hi Kim,
Thanks for writing in! When working the k1b on the first row, you do need to use a long tail cast on and will be inserting your needle just under the “purl” bump from the long tail cast on – it’s a bit tricky but the spot is there! If you prefer, you could certainly purl one row as a setup row and then begin the stitch pattern. If you choose to do that I would also work one plain row before casting off at the end so the edges match.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am trying to start this blanket. Are you starting the knit below on the first row after casting on? If so, how do you do it? When I tried this it made the yarn very tight.
Hello Mary Ellen,
Thank you for reaching out! When working the k1b on the first row, you do need to use a long tail cast on and will be inserting your needle just under the “purl” bump from the long tail cast on – it’s a bit tricky but the spot is there! If you prefer, you could certainly purl one row as a setup row and then begin the stitch pattern. If you choose to do that I would also work one plain row before casting off at the end so the edges match.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi,
Lovely pattern! I tried to do a swatch so that I made sure I knew what I was doing before starting the blanket. I’m stuck on row 1! I can see how to execute the k1b after rows have been knit. But the pattern says cast on and then the next row says to k1b in the cast on. When I do this, I have huge loops. There are not stitches to knit into below, so how is this done?
Thank you,
Deb
Hi Deb,
Thanks for writing in! When working the k1b on the first row, you do need to use a long tail cast on and will be inserting your needle just under the “purl” bump from the long tail cast on – it’s a bit tricky but the spot is there! If you prefer, you could certainly purl one row as a setup row and then begin the stitch pattern. If you choose to do that I would also work one plain row before casting off at the end so the edges match.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
If I decide to pearl a row, do the rows get turned and slid as the directions say. Also, when you slide you slide, you move the stitches to the other needle. Is this correct? Thanks
Hello Mary,
Thank you for reaching out! This is a great question. To add a purl row you don’t need to do anything special. After casting on, you will purl one row, turn your work and begin row one.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi!
I’m very interested in attempting this project. I’ve loved your blanket patterns for such a long time and am excited to try and take on something more challenging! However, I’m not sure how to add-in color B if you cast-on color A. Furthermore, I was wondering if the border is necessary to add or if there is a simpler way to finish the blanket. I’ve never used double pointed needles before and don’t want to set myself up for failure if it’s avoidable!
Thank you so much!
Hi Helen,
Thanks for reaching out! When you start working with Color B, you will simply begin knitting with it, just as if you were starting a stripe of a new color, leaving the tail of Color A where it is to be used later. The I-Cord border adds a lovely edge so we do recommend it, and it’s really quite easy to do! Even though it is done with double pointed needles, it isn’t the same technique as using double pointed needles to knit in the round, and you could use a circular needle if you prefer. You can see how to do it in our Attached I-Cord tutorial!
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello! I am having trouble with the 3rd row, color b, showing through on the front side. This adds an extra row of color b. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong. I appreciate your help!
Mikala
Hi Mikala,
Thanks for reaching out! It’s hard to say what might be going wrong without seeing your work, but I think you are missing the instruction to slide your work at the end of Row 3. Since Row 4 is worked with Color A, you will need to slide all your stitches to the other end of your circular needle so that the tail of Color A left from working Row 2 is available to knit Row 4. It’s also possible that you just need to continue working a few more rows to see how the colorwork turns out – since each row knits into the row below, the stitches immediately below the needle won’t look quite how they should, but as the blanket progresses the pattern should start to reveal itself!
Best of luck, and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you for your response! I think I’ Sliding the work correctly, as I have the correct yarn color when I need it. I’ve done a swatch four times doing 12 rows. I did email a picture of my work to your customer service email. Again, thank you so much for your response!
Morning…I love the look af this blanket…I just purchase the good big wool to make the brindle blanket but this looks more interesting of a pattern…..I know the gauge will be totally different but would that yarn work for this pattern??” Thanks so much!
Hello Lynn,
Thanks for reaching out! Since you have the good wool coming to you I would knit up a little swatch with it in this pattern to see if you like it. If you do like it, you can always measure it to see how many stitches per inches you are getting to figure out a good cast on number.
I hope this is helpful and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi
Can you carry the colors up the sides somehow instead of having tails everywhere? If yes, how do I do it. Thanks!!
Jane
Hello Jane,
Thank you for reaching out! Yes, you should not cut your yarn every time you switch colors. When you are finished with one color you simply let it rest as you start with you next color. Because you are changing colors every two rows, there is no need to carry up, as it will just be there waiting for you. The reason you only see Heirloom Whit on the edges of the blanket is because we finish the blanket with an attached I-cord.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I would love to knit this stitch as a cowl, but haven’t figured out how to do it in the round… I’m going to play around with it a little and can probably figure it out, but thought maybe someone had done this and could give me pointers… Any advice?
Hi Joan,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, we don’t have instructions for knitting this stitch in the round; however, you could always knit the cowl flat and seam it up when you are done!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
This stitch would be amazing as a hat ……. but can you knit it in the round ??
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t have instructions for knitting this stitch in the round or a hat pattern that uses this stitch, but I will certainly pass your request along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Hi!
I got to the end of my Beautyberry blanket a year ago but never did the bind off. For some reason I am finding the bind off instructions a little confusing…could you maybe explain the 5th row bind off a little more clearly? I’m so close to finishing and don’t want to mess up the bind off before I even start thinking about the “2-stitch” i-cord thingy that I’ve never done, but if Elizabeth Zimmerman calls it the idiot cord, how hard can it be??? : ) Thanks in advance…I know this old but I hope to hear from someone…thanks again. Maggie M
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m so sorry for the delay! To bind off this blanket, you will simply be working Row 5 as you always have before, but every time you have two stitches on your right hand needle, bind one off. In other words, you will start with a k1 and k1b, then bind off a stitch, k1, bind off one, k1b, bind off one, k1, bind off one, and so on until you have bound off all the stitches in pattern. I assure you that the attached i-cord is quite straightforward once you give it a try, and hopefully our tutorial will help you get the hang of it!
Best,
Julianna
This pattern looks awesome! I have some super bulky yarn that I would love to use with it–I’m wondering if I could use this slightly thinner yarn with size 11 circular needles, and just have more stitches in each row and more rows? Do you think the pattern would be too tight or hard to manage?
Thanks!
Hello Maria,
Thanks for writing! This will depend on your gauge, but I think it should work great. I would recommend knitting up a small gauge swatch to make sure you are happy with the stitch texture before jumping into your blanket.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I would love to knit a blanket for an adult. IF I used the Blueberry pattern…how many stitches would I need to cast on and how much wool would I need?
Hello Shelley,
Thanks for reaching out! The throw size is a nice option for an adult blanket. It is 60″x40″ and requires 13 skeins of Gentle Giant for color A and 6 in color B. The cast on for this size is 45 stitches. If you are interested in going larger this stitch can be worked over any odd number. This means that you can use your gauge to determine your cast on. For example for 45″ wide you would cast on about 53 stitches, according to the gauge the original pattern provides.
Let us know if you have further questions and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Im confused about the Slide Work. I’ve been looking for videos and can’t seem to find. I see you have a nice video for the K1b. I would love to make this for my first grand child ( really want to do something special). But I’m truly stuck on this Slide Work part.
Hi Bridget,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have a video for this step, but hopefully I can explain it! In order to knit this blanket, you will need to use a circular needle and not straight needles. When you see the instructions to turn the work, you will turn the blanket as you normally would by switching which needle is in which hand and the first stitch of the next row will be the last stitch you just knitted. When the instructions have you slide the work, you will slide the entire blanket to the other end of the circular needle, and the first stitch of the next row will be the first stitch of the row you just knitted. It can be difficult to visualize, but when you start knitting the blanket, I’m sure it will start making a lot more sense!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi All! Is there a video for this pattern, for a few rows? I’m having troubles understanding what I am doing! When the instruction is to knit one, does that always mean together with the strand that comes from “knitting one below”?
Thanks a lot!
Hi Camille,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources at the moment to create a video for this stitch, but I’m happy to help explain it! If you are ending up with extra strands of yarn on your needle, it sounds like you might be working the k1b incorrectly, so I would recommend reviewing our Working Into The Stitch Below tutorial. When it is worked correctly, you will end up with just a single strand ordinary knit stitch on the needle, so when the pattern has you just knit one, you will be knitting without any modifications or extra steps.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
What is the name of the pattern? (I.E. honeycomb, fisherman’s etc.) I’m just getting into knitting but I pick things up quickly with a video. I saw that you don’t currently have the resources and was hoping to try and find a video of something similar but don’t what to search for.
Best,
Laura
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out! This is a variation of our Two-Color Honeycomb Brioche stitch, but worked by knitting into the stitch below instead of with with yarn overs. The technique in our video is different, but you may still find it helpful!
Best,
Julianna
Thank you for this! I was also curious if there is one color that is use predominately more in volume (e.i. should I buy more skeins of color A over color B) I’m a bit confused on the skeins reference on this page.
Hi Laura,
Yes, you will need more of Color A than Color B! You will need 5 (7, 13) skeins of Color A, and 2 (3, 6) skeins of Color B. The numbers in parentheses refer to the larger sizes of the blanket.
Best,
Julianna
Does having thicker yarn help with this particular stitch? I’m having a lot of trouble getting my stitches to be uniform. with typical stitches I know how and when to tension my yarn but with this pattern sometimes I’ll pull and a string to tension it and I end up losing the stitch altogether. If I don’t tension it I get these random huge loops.
Do you also have any suggestions for the very first 6 rows? the tension problem is the worst in those rows. Should I try using thicker yarn with a smaller needle?
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for writing in! It’s hard to say what might be going wrong without seeing your work, but it sounds like your knitting might not be tight enough overall. This stitch should work well in any weight of yarn, but no matter what yarn you use, you should be using a needle that is the correct size for your yarn to create a dense fabric. If you aren’t already, I would recommend checking the label for your yarn and using the recommended needle size for your swatch to see if it improves things. If the tension issues are intermittent, you might just need more practice to get the hang of knitting in the stitch below!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi there. The yarn I’m using shows a gauge of 2.5 stitches per inch on size 15 needles. If I want to do the crib size blanket, could you advise on how many stitches I should cast on? I am SO bad at figuring out the math. Thank you so much!
Hi Alexis,
Thanks for reaching out! Since textured stitch patterns can result in a very different number of stitches per inch than what is listed on the label, the best way to find out is to knit a gauge swatch in pattern! I would recommend knitting your swatch on the US 15 needles that are recommended for the yarn. You can then measure your stitches per inch, multiply by the desired width of your blanket, and round to the nearest odd number to determine how many stitches to cast on.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thanks! I think I’m getting about 2 stitches per inch. So now I would multiple 2 by 45 (90)…so I would choose 89 or 91??
Oh wait, I would multiple it by 30, not 45. So 2 stitches per inch x 30 is 60, so I’d do 59 or 61. Correct?
Hi Alexis,
Yes, you’ve got it! You could go with either 59 or 61 stitches depending on whether you prefer your blanket slightly on the narrower or wider side, but the difference will only be about an inch. It sounds like you’re ready to cast on!
Best,
Julianna
I am working on my gauge swatch and having trouble. I could not knit row 1 correctly into the long tail cast on, so I purled a row to start instead, as I have seen you instruct in others’ comments. But then that means on the next row when I begin to k1b, I’m on the right side of the fabric, correct? But row 1 is a wrong side row. So, does my purl row count as row 1, and I should begin the pattern on row 2? If so, will this mess up the design? Would I need to end the blanket on a row other than row 4?
Also, I am confused when I do get to a wrong side row. Is it supposed to be purl 1 below? Or am I in fact knitting into purled stitches?
I am super excited to start this project; Gentle Giant is a beautiful yarn! I just need some help getting past this initial confusion 🙂
Hi Amy,
Thanks for reaching out! Because the edge of the blanket will be finished with an attached i-cord, you could really start with either a knit or a purl row. It’s a bit easier to work the k1b when the knit side is facing you, so we suggest starting with a purl row. The Row 1 after that will still be a wrong side row and you will still end the blanket with a Row 4!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I don’t understand what I’m doing wrong at all! When I knit 1 below on a right side row, everything is a-okay, but things go haywire when I knit one below on a wrong side row. I insert my needle into the stitch below, wrap the yarn, pull it through, let the top stitch fall off the needle and give it a very gentle tug, just as in your tutorial video. On a right side row that works fine, and the stitch that I allow to fall off the needle tightens up nicely, but on a wrong side row, the stitch that I let fall off the needle isn’t attached to anything, so when I give it that gentle tug, it just unravels. I have tried sooooo many times to knit up a gauge swatch, but always encounter this problem right away when I get to row 3. Please help!
Hi Amy
Thanks for reaching out! It is a little hard for me try and figure out what is going wrong without seeing your work! This stitch pattern only works over an odd number of stitches, so I would make sure your gauge swatch does too, and watching the Working into the Stitch Below tutorial just to make sure you are doing it correctly. I hope one of these things helps and happy knitting!
Best
Jessica
Hi. I want to knit a throw that measures 50” X 70”. I have 670 yards of Purl Soho’s Super Soft Merino, Peacock Blue color, and 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Super Soft Merino, Oyster Grey color, Can you tell me how many stitches do I need to cast for a throw this size? Can I use the Super Soft Merino yarn instead of the Purl Soho’s Gentle Giant? How many more skeins of yarn I will need? If you have the Peacock Blue color available or where can I buy it What needle size do I need?
Hi Suzette,
Thanks for writing in! Super Soft Merino is quite a bit thinner than Gentle Giant, so you will have to make some changes to the pattern to compensate for the lighter weight yarn. I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch in pattern on a US 11 needle. You can then measure your stitches per inch, multiply by 50 inches, and round to the nearest odd number to determine how many stitches to cast on. It’s a bit trickier to estimate how much yardage you will need when changing the gauge like this, but I think you will need around 17 skeins of Super Soft Merino and 8 skeins of Color B.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
The video for k1b is terrific! Not understanding how to k1b into purl row…? Assistance would be so appreciated!
Hi Lacey,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! You work a K1B into the purl row the same way you would K1B into a knit row! So you can K1B the same way whichever row you are on!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I just finished a blanket using this pattern and I love it! I did use a worsted weight yarn and played with my needle sized on a swatch until I figured out what made the pattern pop out. For me it was a size 9 needle. I did use a purl row after casting on.
I really appreciated your video showing the k1b. I think that many newer knitters would benefit from a video showing how to tink back if you mess up and realize it relatively soon after. It took me several attempts with my crochet hook to figure that one out and it looks/acts differently depending what row you are on.
Thanks for the beautiful pattern!
Hi Alisha,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! I am so glad to hear that you enjoyed this pattern and out tutorials. Thank you for sharing your tips and I will be sure to pass along to the rest of the team your interest in a tutorial on how to correct mistakes!
All the best,
Gianna
Hello, I love the look of this blanket but I have to admit that it’s not very forgiving if you make a mistake! I’ve ripped it out to start over more times than I care to admit, I now plan on running a safety line every few rows. My question is, do you knit into the previous row’s k1b, and k1b into the knit from the previous row on every row? Or does that change depending on what row you are on? Is there a row where you would k1b into the previous row’s k1b? I think this is where I’m getting thrown off. I am casting on an odd number as suggested, I’m also adding a set up purl row. Thanks in advance for your reply!
Hi Donna,
Thanks for reaching out! You will be knitting into the stitch below in every row, however it will be offset each row! For example, row 1 you will start by knitting 1 then going into the repeat *k1b, k1. Then for row 2 you will be knitting 2 before going into the *k1b, k1 repeat.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
This doesn’t seem to work between rows 4 and 5 because I slide the work rather than turn the work so the stitches aren’t offset. It only seems to work if I k1 on row 5 rather than k2. Does that make sense? Help!
Hi Stacy,
Thanks for reaching out. Rows 4 and 5 are indeed offset! On Row 4, you knit 1 stitch to begin, and then on Row 5, you knit the first 2 stitches. This means that you’re working the k1b’s on Row 5 into the normal knit stitches from Row 4. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I am using a thinner yarn then the one suggested. I just wanted to know what the multiple of the pattern is? Is it any odd number? I am using a size 15 needle. Getting about 5 stitches per 4 inches. Any help would be greatly appreciated! I love working the pattern!
Hi Christina,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you are on the right track! This pattern works over an odd multiple of stitches, and if you are getting 5 stitches per 4 inches (the pattern gets 4.75 per 4 inches) I think you are close enough and should be alright to follow the pattern as written.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I finished the gentle berry baby blanket. What is your recommendation for blocking.
Hi Miriam,
Thanks for writing in! For Gentle Giant, I recommend either spraying or steaming the blanket as opposed to soaking it, to block it and then laying it flat to dry! For more tips, I recommend checking out our lovely Blocking tutorial!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any other questions!
Gianna
I am concerned regarding the length of the 19 circular needle. 32 vs 40 I’m making the largest size. Will the 40inch be too long?
Hi Susan,
Thanks so much for your question. I think 40″ wouldn’t be too long and would work for this project! You’d also be more able to see how the blanket would look once off the needles since the stitches have more room to spread out.
I hope that helps! Have a great weekend!
All the best,
Cat
Thank you !
Hi there, I’ve read through the comments but haven’t found an answer to the problem I’ve been having. I’ve started over about five times already because my rows are not following the WS/RS cadence per the pattern. I’m comfortable with the k1b, am following the pattern as written (did not add a purl setup row), and I understand turning vs sliding but the sides are not matching up for me. Any clues? Thank you!
Hi Mariel,
Thanks for reaching out! The only thing I can think of that might be causing this mismatch between sides is if you’re not switching between the two yarns on the correct rows. If you’re still having trouble with this pattern, I’d recommend sending along photos to customerservice@purlsoho.com so we can take a closer look at your work!
All the best,
Lili
This is so much fun to knit but the i-cord border is super hard! Two questions:
1. Do you have any tips on how to keep the edges neat in this pattern? I saw in an earlier comment that we are not supposed to carry the colors up the selvedge and just let them hang, but then I have big loops, or the sides are way too tight when I try to bring up the yarn. Not having neat edges makes the i-cord so difficult.
2. Do you have any suggestions for a 2 stitch i-cord video? All of the tutorials I found online were for 3 or 4 stitch (and all of them do the i-cords in different ways) so I was unsure how to proceed with the two stitch.
Thank you!
Hi Keri,
Thanks for reaching out. I can absolutely help answer your questions! Regarding the messy edges, it sounds like you’re running into some difficulties with tension. Because the next color yarn will be right there when it’s time to change colors, you don’t need to carry it up the selvedge, but you do need to maintain a consistent tension when you begin working with it again. Big loops result from a tension that’s too loose, and tight sides result from a tension that’s too loose.
In answer to your other question, I’m afraid I don’t know of a specific video! But I’m sure there are some good ones on YouTube. You can also follow our Attached I-Cord tutorial! While we show a 4-stitch i-cord in the photos, the instructions will work perfectly for any number of stitches. The first step is “Knit until there is 1 stitch remaining on the left needle. Slip this stitch as if to purl,” so if you’re doing a 2-stitch i-cord, you would knit only 1 stitch before the slipped stitch, rather than knitting 3 stitches for a 4-stitch i-cord.
If you’re still finding the attached i-cord border to be difficult, especially with the messy edges, you could try another border! I think that a crochet border would be perfect in this case, since it would be easy to hide the extra loops of yarn underneath. To make a crochet border, just work single crochets evenly along each edge, and work multiple single crochets into each corner of the blanket!
I hope my advice helps you finish up your project!
All the best,
Lili
I have read all the comments about the 1st row and k1b. The 1st row (Row 1) says to knit to the end…but none of the comments mention that. Isn’t that the set up row?? Could I knit a row, purl a row, knit a row and then start on Row 2? That way, I’m still on the wrong side when I start the 1st row of k1b…
Hi Stacy,
Thanks so much for reaching out to us! It looks like there may have been an update to row 1 of this pattern in the past, which is why there is some differing information in the comments. You are correct that for row 1 (right side) you should knit across the row, and on row 2 (wrong side) you will k1, *k1b, k1, repeat from * to the end of the row. Your cast on in this case will act as a wrong side row, setting you up for row 1 being on the right side!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly
Hi Stacy,
Thanks so much for reaching out to us! We recently made an update to row 1 of the Beautyberry Blanket, which is why there is some differing information in the comments. This change was made to the pattern so that you have an extra row to work with when knitting into the stitch below.
You are correct that on row 1 (right side) you should knit across the row, and on row 2 (wrong side) you will k1, *k1b, k1, repeat from * to the end of the row. Your cast on in this case will act as a wrong side row, setting you up for row 1 being on the right side!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly