Beautyberry Blanket
On the cusp of our first frost, it couldn’t be a better time to introduce our newest yarn, big and cozy Gentle Giant, and with it, this cuddly Beautyberry Blanket!
We named our Beautyberry Blanket for the native bush whose bright purple berries linger through winter. In Gentle Giant’s heathered Purple Lupine and glowing Heirloom White, this blanket evokes a soft cover of berry-studded snow, one of nature’s amazing surprises.
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
A simple stitch pattern and our bulky-weight Gentle Giant make this blanket a quick and fun knit. Whip it up and be ready for frosty weather! -Laura
UPDATE: NOW A COWL IN SUPER SOFT MERINO
DECEMBER 2022
Same beautiful stitch pattern but now in a Super Soft Merino cowl, our Beautyberry Cowl takes is toasty warm without weighing you down! Super Soft Merino comes in over thirty colors, and it only takes three skeins for a once-around cowl or five for the double-wrap version. Pick the shades that will enliven your winter days and cast on!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoBeautyberryBlanket, and #PurlSohoGentleGiant. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Color A: 5 (7, 13) skeins of Purl Soho’s Gentle Giant, 100% merino wool yarn. Each skein of this super bulky yarn is 48 yards/ 125 grams; approximately 240 (336, 624) yards required. We used the color Heirloom White.
- Color B: 2 (3, 6) skeins of Gentle Giant; approximately 96 (144, 288) yards required. We used the color Purple Lupine.
- US 19 (15 mm), 32-inch circular needles
- Two US 17 (12 mm) double pointed needles
Gauge
4¾ stitches = 4 inches in stitch pattern
Sizes
Baby (Crib, Throw)
- Finished dimensions: 24 x 36 (30 x 45, 40 x 60) inches
SAMPLE: We knit the Baby size.
Notes
Knitting into the Stitch Below
k1b [knit one below]: Insert the tip of the right needle into the stitch below the next stitch from front to back, knit normally (wrapping the yarn around the needle and pulling it back through the stitch below) and let the stitch above fall from the left needle.
For more information about this technique, be sure to visit our Working into the Stitch Below Tutorial!
Turn or Slide
Each row in this pattern ends with the instructions to either “turn” or “slide” the work.
- “Turn work” means to do what you would normally do when knitting rows with a circular needle. That is to say, put the needle in your left hand into your right and the needle in your right hand into your left, and flip the work around so the opposite side is facing you.
- “Slide work” means to keep the same side of the work facing you and to push all the stitches to the right end of the circular needle. Without turning the work, start the new row as you normally would.
You will know that you’re doing this right if the yarn you need to complete the next row is magically there waiting for you!
Pattern
UPDATE March 28, 2022: A previous version of this pattern required working into the stitch below directly into the cast-on row, but more than a couple of people found this fiddly to knit. We heard you and have added a knit row before the first stitch-pattern row. If you would like a copy of the previous version, please contact us at customerservice@purlsoho.com.
Begin
With Color A and the circular needles, cast on 27 (35, 45) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): With Color A, k1, *k1b (see Notes, above), k1, repeat from * to end of row, turn work (see Notes, above).
Row 3 (right side): With Color A, k2, *k1b, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1, turn work.
Row 4 (wrong side): With Color B, k1, *k1b, k1, repeat from * to end of row, slide work (see Notes, above).
Row 5 (wrong side): With Color A, k2, *k1b, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1, turn work.
Row 6 (right side): With Color A, k1, *k1b, k1, repeat from * to end of row, slide work.
Row 7 (right side): With Color B, k2, *k1b, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1, turn work.
Repeat Rows 2-7 until piece measures 34 ½ (43 ½ 58 ½) inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 5.
Work Row 6, but bind off as you go. Here’s how…
With Color A, k1, *k1b, slip first stitch over second stitch and off right needle (binding off one), k1, bind off one, repeat from * to end of row.
Cut yarn and pull it through the remaining stitch.
Finish
NOTE: I recommend weaving in the ends before working the Attached I-cord border.
With Color A and the two double pointed needles, work a 2-stitch Attached I-cord around the entire edge of the blanket. With the right side facing you, start at any point of the blanket’s edge and work counter clockwise.
For the long side edges, pick up 2 stitches for every 3 rows.
For the short bottom and top edges, pick up a stitch into every stitch. This means for the bottom row you’ll pick up one stitch for each cast-on stitch, and for the top edge you’ll pick up one stitch for each bound-off stitch.
At each corner, work one row of Attached I-cord, then a row of unattached I-cord, and then another row of Attached I-cord.
When you’ve finished working the Attached I-cord, graft or sew its two ends together.
Weave in the remaining ends and block as desired.
LEARN ABOUT GENTLE GIANT + ALL OUR BEAUTIFUL YARNS
You can’t get more gentle or more giant than Gentle Giant! A single ply of 100% merino wool, Gentle Giant has a loose and lofty spin that puts the fiber’s softness up front and also keeps this jumbo-weight yarn from weighing you down. You knit Gentle Giant up on mega US 17 or 19 (12-15 mm) knitting needles, making it a very smart choice for last-minute gifts that don’t sacrifice a lick of beauty!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our vast collection of (mostly free!) Gentle Giant knitting patterns and cast on!
More Jumbo-Weight Yarns
- Shop our collection of jumbo-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fibers
- Shop merino wool
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Is there a foundation row which allows you to knit into the stitch below on the first row?
Hello Christina!
There isn’t a foundation row that is necessary in order to k1b for the first row, as long as you do a more intricate cast on method, such as Long Tail. You should be able to insert your needle into the next stitch of the cast on to achieve this technique.
Let us know if you still are having trouble! Best of luck! -Alyson
I can’t, for the life of me, figure out how to knit the first down into a long tail cast on. Help!
Hello Jesse,
This is a confusing step, since it doesn’t look like a “k1b” usually looks. If you are really struggling, feel free to knit one row in the main color first, so that you can easily access the row below. You should have plenty of yardage with what we’ve recommended. I hope this helps! Enjoy! -Alyson
Phew about it being ok to knit a foundation row. I was struggling also. My stitches look like fat blobs and the ones in the photo are all nice and defined. Could it be that I am using dark gray for the main color and pink for the accent? Or do you suspect I might need a smaller needle? LOVE the yarn by the way.
Hello Wendy!
Are you getting the same gauge as recommended in the pattern (1.25 stitches per inch)? If you think you’re stitches are too loose comparatively, you may want to use a smaller size needle! We’re so happy you like the yarn.
Happy knitting! -Alyson
I understand except you end up being on the wrong side especailly when you want to add on color B- could you explain again?
Hello Michelle! You’re right!
You can use the technique that this pattern uses to turn the work and slide the stitches down to the other side of the needles in order to start with the contrasting color. Please feel free to write again if this doesn’t make sense!
Best of luck! -Alyson
Hi! Thanks for this awesome pattern. I ran out to my craft store to pick up some yarn as soon as I saw it. Now that I am home though, the bulky weight yarn that I bought seems to be too thin. It’s recommending using size 11 needles, rather than the 19. Even casting on, 45 stitches seems small. Should I find a super bulky weight yarn, or am I jumping ahead of myself.
If it helps, it’s a brand called Loops & Thread, and charisma is the name of it.
Thanks!
Hello Christianne!
Charisma looks like it estimates you’ll get about 2.75 stitches/inch on size 11’s. At that rate, you would need to cast on more stitches in order to get a blanket of a similar size to the sample in the pattern. If you would like to make the baby size like in the pattern, for example, you should multiply 24 inches by 2.75 stitches = roughly 66 stitches. Since the stitch pattern requires an odd number of stitches, I would recommend casting on 65 instead.
Hope this helps! Best of luck! -Alyson
Thanks for the reply! Now, would I use size 11 needles, or the size 19s?
Hello again!
Happy to help! You should use the needles that help you get the consistency of fabric that you like the best, I would go with the recommendation on the yarn’s ball band. Try the #11s and see how it works out! Best of luck! -Alyson
You might also consider holding the yarn double.
I’m feeling kind of slow on the uptake with the “slide work”.
When I’ve finished a row all of my work is on the right needle. How do I push all of the stitches to the end of the right needle (aren’t they already there?) and and knit as normal without the work being turned.
I just can’t get the visual on this. Thank you for any help.
Hello Judy!
Good question. This only will make sense if you are using circular needles as the pattern suggests. Like the pattern says: ““Slide work” means to keep the same side of the work facing you and to push all the stitches to the right end of the circular needle. Without turning the work, start the new row as you normally would.”
This method helps you manage both colors of yarn as they are attached to your blanket at the same time. After the first time you add on color B, you will use this technique to switch colors throughout the pattern. It will be visibly obvious when you see that the opposite color’s working yarn is attached to the other side of the blanket!
Hope this helps! Happy knitting! -Alyson
I too have been having issues with the “slide work” vs “turn work”. It seems as though when I add color B and “slide work” color A is not on the correct side to begin the new row (and I am using circular needles). HELP! I thought I was doing great when I didn’t have issues with knitting below on the cast on row, but now I just feel like I am missing something so completely obvious.
Thank you for your help!
Hi Lauren.
I don’t think you’re missing anything completely obvious at all, but I’m glad you wrote in and I’d love to help get you back on track!
This pattern has a 6-row repeat. You work…
two rows in Color A
one rows in Color B
two rows in Color A
one row in Color B
Below is an abbreviated version of the pattern, including the row number, the side of the fabric, the color yarn you use and what you do at the end of the row.
Row 1 (wrong side): With Color A, … turn work.
Row 2 (right side): With Color A, … turn work.
Row 3 (wrong side): With Color B, … slide work.
Row 4 (wrong side): With Color A, … turn work.
Row 5 (right side): With Color A, … slide work.
Row 6 (right side): With Color B, … turn work.
So, for the “slide work” and “turn work”…
AFTER ROW 3
The next row is worked with Color A. Since the last row you worked with Color A was a rs row, the yarn is waiting at the end of the rs (or the beginning of the wrong side) and that’s why you have to slide your work to the end of your needles, keeping the wrong side facing you, in order to use your Color A to work Row 4.
AFTER ROW 5
Similarly to after Row 3, after working a Row 5 on the rs with A, you need to work the following Row with Color B. Since the previous row worked with B was a ws row, the yarn is waiting at the end of the ws (or the beginning of the right side) and that’s why you have to slide your work to the end of your needles, keeping the right side facing you, in order to use Color B to work Row 6.
I do hope this helps! Please do not hesitate to write back in with any questions.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Is there a cheaper yarn that I could use? If I’m understanding correctly I’d need 13 and 6 for a throw sized blanket.
Hi Anne.
Great question! Yes, we carry a few other yarns that would work. To see all of our Bulky Weight yarns, just click here! I recommend taking a close look at Cascade’s Magnum. I believe it may be the least expensive option!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I love the blanket, and the wool it is made with. I would like to make it as a single bed spread, for the type of wool it is would that work? I am assuming I can just increase the stitches to the desired width.
Hi Angela.
What a great idea! And YES, this pattern is very easy to modify, just be sure to cast on an odd number of stitches. Let us know if you have any questions. Thanks for writing in!
Laura
Would love to make this, however, how would you wash something so heavy?
Hello Carmen!
Since this is 100% Merino wool and a 1 ply, very thick yarn, any sort of agitation or heat will definitely encourage some major pilling! We recommend hand wash and spot cleaning over any full submersion cleaning technique. This is definitely an heirloom! We’re so happy you like the pattern! Enjoy! -Alyson
I want to use this for the double seed stitch blanket. Do I still have to double the yarn?
Hello Ann!
For our Double Seed Stitch blanket seen here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/01/27/double-seed-stitch-blanket/, we don’t use the yarn held double! If you would like to use our Gentle Giant for this yarn, keep in mind that its much thicker than the Super Soft Merino that was originally used for the Double Seed Stitch blanket. I think it would be lovely in Gentle Giant, just make sure to do a gauge swatch so that you can estimate how many stitches you’ll need to cast on to make your ideal sized blanket.
Enjoy! -Alyson
I love the pattern and love the color combination. The pattern starts on the wrong side k1k1b, should there be a knit or purl row before starting the actual pattern?
Hello Mali!
While you don’t need to add a knit row in the MC before you start the stitch pattern, you may if that would be easier for you! As long as you do a more substantial cast on method, such as Long tail, you should be able to get below into the next stitch without too much trouble. Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
I love this! Unfortunately when I tried to find the i-cord tutorial on your site, I couldn’t find it. Has the page been removed?
Hello Catherine!
We’re so sorry the link wasn’t working for you! Here’s the link that should be back up and running now: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2006/09/29/i-cord/
Thanks for your patience with our new site and happy knitting! -Alyson
Am I reading correctly? It takes $150 in yarn for a baby sized blanket? This is beautiful but I can’t imagine making a blanket for that price and my infant spitting up on it!
Hello Jill!
I hear you! This blanket is definitely more of an heirloom piece than something used for everyday wear and tear. Try using Cascade’s Magnum for a more economic version. You can find that yarn here: https://www.purlsoho.com/magnum.html
This yarn is a hair thinner, but it will still be beautiful! If you are at all a looser knitter, I would recommend going down a needle size. Make a swatch to be sure! Best of luck and happy knitting! -Alyson
How do you k1b on the 1st row after casting on?
Hello Steff!
There isn’t a foundation row that is necessary in order to k1b for the first row, as long as you do a more intricate cast on method, such as Long Tail. You should be able to insert your needle into the next stitch of the cast on to achieve this technique.
Let us know if you still are having trouble! Best of luck! -Alyson
I am thinking of making a baby blanket.
Can this be washed in the machine ?
Hello Kris!
This yarn is incredibly plush and delicate, so spot cleaning by hand is recommended. Any heat or extra agitation will lead to excess pilling! It is definitely an heirloom blanket, not really meant for everyday wear and tear. We’re glad you like the pattern! Enjoy! -Alyson
I’m a bit confused and confounded by the first row… It seems way to difficult to k1b into a cast on. Is there a set-up row I’m missing?
Hello Rebekah!
There isn’t a foundation row that is necessary in order to k1b for the first row, as long as you do a more intricate cast on method, such as Long Tail. You should be able to insert your needle into the next stitch of the cast on to achieve this technique.
Let us know if you still are having trouble! Best of luck! -Alyson
How do I k1b on row 1. There’s nothing but the cast on to knit into. I did a long tail cast on. Should I do something different or am I missing something?
Hello Charis!
There isn’t a foundation row that is necessary in order to k1b for the first row, as long as you do a more intricate cast on method, such as Long Tail–which you did! You should be able to insert your needle into the next stitch of the cast on to achieve this technique.
Let us know if you still are having trouble! Best of luck! -Alyson
This is stunningly beautiful! Does the stitch have a name? I don’t knit but I crochet and would like to do some research to find a similar pattern in crochet. Your patterns, projects and yarns are like eye candy and I love them!
Thanks for the constant inspiration!
We’re so glad you enjoy our designs, Barbara!
We refer to the stitch pattern as Checked Rose stitch! Best of luck looking for a crochet equivalent and let us know what you find! Happy stitching! -Alyson
This is so beautiful–both pattern and yarn! Could I make a scarf using the same pattern and yarn? If so, could you tell me how many stitches to cast on, the size needle and amount of yarn you would recommend? Would it follow the same 6 row pattern, and would the I-cord be needed? Okay, that may be asking too much, but it’s so hard to resist!
Hello Kathy!
The cast on would depend on how wide you want the scarf to be! Use the gauge of the pattern to multiply by how many inches wide you want it to be. The 6 row repeat is necessary to keep up the stitch pattern and the I-cord is a great addition to make sure that you have a nice neat edge. Follow the same needle size as the pattern recommends, and I would get at least 3 of the Main Color and 2 of the Contrasting Color. This will depend on how long you want the scarf to be, but it should get you started!
Best of luck! -Alyson
I would love to do this in a cowl. How do I modify the pattern to do so? This is absolutely beautiful.
Hello Max!
How long would you like your cowl to be? Large enough to wrap around twice? If so, I would recommend making it at least 45″ wide, so you can cast on about 53 stitches, according to the gauge the original pattern provides. Since the pattern is written in 2D knitting, I wouldn’t recommend trying to convert it to be knit in the round. It would take so much time and effort that you could be knitting! I would simply stitch it up the side once your done. Let us know how it turns out! -Alyson
Thank you so much! I will surely try that.
How would I do a K1B on Row 1? The only thing to knit into is the cast on, so there is no “below”. I did a long tail cast on… Should I be doing something different, or am I missing something?
Hello Charis!
So sorry for the delayed response! If you were to do a substantial cast on, like Long Tail, you should be able to insert your needle into the stitch below just fine. If you are still having issues, you may want to simply add a row in the Main color to help you create a more solid foundation.
Best of luck and thanks for asking! -Alyson
You go from a cast on edge straight into the pattern row, I’m having trouble doing just that. Any advice? I already added a comment on you Ravelry pattern so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hello Diana!
I consulted another expert member of our team, and we agree that as long as you use a more substantial cast on method, such as Long Tail, you should be able to insert your needle into the cast on edge of the next stitch. Don’t hesitate to write in again if you’re still having trouble! Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
This blanket is so lovely. I haven’t knitted in a while. Would you recommend this project for a returning beginner knitter to take on?
Hello Gina!
While this pattern isn’t exactly a beginner project, I would say if you have experience in the past and don’t mind a bit of a challenge you will be just fine! It really is a simple stitch pattern that is very repetitive. Once you get the first couple of rows down, you’ll be on a roll! Never hesitate to write in if you have any questions along the way. Happy knitting! -Alyson
Hi Laura, How delicious is this merino?! I want to make a very long chunky scarf that wraps the neck once and reaches mid thigh. Would you mind advising how much of this yarn would I need and would you please reccommend a suitable stitch that won’t stretch too much with the weight of wearing? Many thanks, Nicole.
Hello Nicole!
Thanks for writing in! This yarn would be amazing for a long, squishy scarf! We don’t have a pattern created at the moment, but stay tuned for our upcoming designs!
Just as a thought, any scarf that is knit horizontally will stretch significantly. Try doing stripes or rows vertically! Although this pattern will not work for this yarn, take a look at what I mean in this example: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2011/08/21/whits-knits-sunshine-scarf/
Best of luck! -Alyson
Dear Alyson,
Many thanks for the reply and great advice. The sunshine scarf pattern is gorgeous and will go on my list. Looks like my long scarf plans have been sidetracked by the lovely Mountain Cowl just received! Now to choose a colour…. Nicole.
I was wondering if there is another finishing option that will look as polished. I seem to not be able to master the I cord method.
Hello Katie!
What parts of the attached i-cord are giving you issues? This can be tricky, but I think it looks the best! Take a look at our tutorial again if you’d like: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/01/23/attached-i-cord-tutorial/
As for other techniques, you could adjust the pattern slightly and knit a border in with the pattern, or you could also do a simple single crochet stitch along the edge. If you’ve never crocheted, I would recommend trying because the borders and shapes you can create with the most simple techniques are wonderful! Here’s a basic tutorial: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2007/04/12/crochet-basics/
I hope this helps! Best of luck! -Alyson
I love this blanket and would like to make a throw.The yarn I have recommends 17 inch needles but knits at 9 stitches per inch. It is super bulky yarn – but I see your yarn knits at 1 stitch per inch-Would I need to cast on more stitches – and if so how do you figure this out-Thank You-Cindy
Hello Cindy!
If the yarn you have is super bulky, there is no way that it can yield 9 stitches per inch! Could it possibly be 9 stitches per 4 inches? In that case, it would be about 2.25 stitches per inch which sounds much more likely. Your yarn is slightly smaller than Gentle Giant, so if you want a blanket that follows the recommended sizing of this pattern, I would suggest making a gauge swatch and then multiplying the gauge you get in the pattern by the number of inches you want the width to be. Make sure that its an odd number of stitches!
Best of luck! Don’t hesitate to write in again if you need some more tips! Thanks! -Alyson
What a beautiful pattern! Is it the wool yarn that makes this blanket not suitable for the machine? Is there another yarn that would be suitable for everyday wear and tear?
Hello GG!
You’re right, this wool is too delicate for machine washing. We have two other yarns that are similar in size and gauge, but neither of them are machine washable either. Unfortunately, with high quality animal fiber comes great washing responsibility! Best of luck on your yarn search! So sorry we can’t be of more help. -Alyson
I’m having trouble knitting 1 below the first row of the pattern after the cast on row. Any tips?
Hello Ginny!
As long as you use a more substantial cast on method, such as Long Tail, you should be able to insert your needle into the cast on edge of the next stitch. Don’t hesitate to write in again if you’re still having trouble! Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
I love the colors of these wool, wondering if there is a crochet blanket pattern for this wool, as I have never knitted before.
Hello Wendy,
While we don’t have any patterns in crochet for this yarn yet, I would recommend trying to make this blanket with it: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2012/12/08/giant-giant-granny-square-blanket/
Since Gentle Giant is much thicker than the original yarn in this pattern, keep in mind the gauge and end size will be different. Make a gauge swatch if you want to pre-plan the sizing, or begin and keep going until you like the look of it! Thanks so much for your interest and happy stitching! -Alyson
Question.
I must be missing something really obvious!! I think I’m following the pattern, but knitting on both wrong and right sides is not giving me the smooth knit stitch look on both front and back. Suggestions or Tips?
Thank you!
Hello Leslie!
The back definitely will be bumpier and not as clean looking as the front. That is normal! Are you making sure to slide the stitches when specified? That’s the only thing I could think that may be an issue. The front will be the only side with the smooth looking finish. If you’d like to send a photo over of yours to customerservice AT purlsoho DOT com, we’d be happy to take a look and try to better diagnose what’s going on! Happy knitting! -Alyson
I’m having the same problem. I’ve done the pattern exactly as written now 4 or 5 times, and it looks nothing like the photo. If anything my wrong side looks at least somewhat close, my right side looks like a weird garter stitch, as one might expect from knitting both sides of the work, I guess.
Hi Alexis.
Thanks for writing in. I would love to help you with the pattern! May I ask a few questions… Are you sliding your work rather than turning at the end of your 3rd and 5th row? When instructed to k1b, are you knitting into the stitch below like we’ve demonstrated in our tutorial? https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2015/08/20/working-into-the-stitch-below/
I’m trying to think of what else might be causing these differences in the fabric. Please write us back! I’d love to figure this out with you.
Thanks.
Laura
I found that you REALLY have to just go with it and knit about 10 rows before the pattern becomes clear. I was convinced I was doing it wrong because until you “pick up” that garter-like stitch by knitting into the stitch below, it has that purl/garter stitch look.
Hello Alexis!
You’re right, sometimes with dense or complex stitch patterns it takes a while for it to appear as ‘correct’. We’re glad you’re more happy with your results! Happy knitting! -Alyson
My yarn is 9 stitches ; 13 rows to 4 inches-if my math is correct would I need to cast on 133 stitches?
Hello again Cindy!
Since the yarn you have is recommending a gauge of 2.25 stitches per inch, you should multiply 2.25 buy the final width of the blanket you would like to make. For example, if you want to make the smallest side, you would cast on 24″ x 2.25 = 54 stitches/inch. Since you need an odd number of stitches to complete this stitch pattern, I would recommend casting on 55 in this case. Hope this helps! -Alyson
This is correct that this pattern is all pattern stitch rows and no purl rows between pattern rows?
I’m about 1/4 into the larger blanket and it is beautiful – the pattern is easy and the yarn is wonderful. I’ve made a mistake in a row and need to go back to fix it. Any advice or tips on successfully ripping out with the knit below?
Thanks!
Hello Linda!
Unfortunately with more intricate stitch patterns such as this one, its really difficult to rip back into the piece without taking out entire rows at a time. I would recommend doing just that, very slowly so that you don’t agitate the yarn too much! I wish there were some better tips for this! Best of luck! -Alyson
I finished the blanket and binded off, but of course that end does not “give” at all. Is there anything I can do to change that or will the tension be more even when the edging is put on? I wish I had used a different method to bind off.
Hi Linda.
I’m glad you wrote in! The i-cord edge won’t fix the tight bind off. If you find your bind off edge is tight, I recommend binding off very loosely or even using a larger needle to bind off. This should alleviate some of the tension along that edge.
Please let us know if you have any questions!
Thanks.
Laura
Hi, I have struggled with k1b in cast on row too even with long tail cast on. I eventually went with a foundation row. What confuses me now is how to k1b in a purl stitch. I have done a cowl scarf which had k1b throughout but always a row of purl stitch between. Am I missing something? Thanks
Hi Jane.
Thanks for writing in! Have you had a chance to take a look at our Working into the Stitch Below Tutorial. It starts with a video showing how to k1b (which it sounds like you’ve got down), but after the video, when you scroll down, there are step-by-step photo instructions for how to purl into the stitch below. https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2015/08/20/working-into-the-stitch-below/
Please let us know if you have any questions at all!
Thanks.
Laura
I can’t figure out how to slide work. I there a video you can send me to? help 🙂
Hello Lisa!
We unfortunately don’t have a video tutorial for this technique, but this really is much simpler than it seems! All you will do is slide the stitches to the other side of the circular needles so that the first stitch you knit of the last round you just finished becomes the first stitch again for the next round. Don’t turn the work, and make sure that you are using circular needles for this pattern.
Please write in again if you have any more concerns! Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
Help! No one else seems to have this issue, but if I knit the first row (wrong side) and turn, don’t I have a purl bump – to knit in stitch below rather than a knit v? To me it looks like the picture is into a knit stitch. Am I knitting one stitch below into a purl bump?
Thanks!
Hello, Ann!
Thank you for your question! Have you started knitting the pattern? I think once you get going you’ll see the V shape. Also, I highly recommend checking out our great video tutorial on knitting the stitch below https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2015/08/20/working-into-the-stitch-below/. If you have further questions, please let us know!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
Hi-
This is one great looking blanket !
Will the Superwash 128 work for this ? If yes, any thoughts or suggestions on the preferred needle size or how to modify the pattern with this yarn!
Thanks in advance.
Hello Carolyn,
You of course could use the 128 Superwash for this pattern, but the gauge will be incredibly different. The best way to figure out the sizing and cast on for the pattern would be to make a gauge swatch so that you can then calculate the appropriate cast on number. Please let us know the gauge you get so we can help you calculate! Thanks! -Alyson
I have figured out the first row by aid of a video on Garnstudio but still have two questions. No purling at all, is that correct?
And rows 2, 4 and six begin and end with two knit stitches?
Thank you for your help.
You’ve got it! Keep up the good work. Happy knitting! -Alyson
Could you guys make a you tube video of this blanket. I really would like to try it, I’m a little hesitant and intimidated by it. I just finished an entrelac knit scarf, I just followed a you tube video and it was easy.
Thanks a lot.
Hello, JO!
Thank you so much for writing in! If you can knit entrelac you can totally handle this! We don’t have a video specifically for this blanket, but we do have a video on knitting the stitch below, https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2015/08/20/working-into-the-stitch-below/, which is the trickiest stitch in this blanket. Also, we have a tutorial for the attached i-cord, https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/01/23/attached-i-cord-tutorial/.
If you excited to try this pattern I think you should go for it! If you have any questions along the way you can always ask here or even call our NYC store!
Happy Knitting,
Kumeko
Well, I have figured out my above questions but have given up as I cannot manage the side/selvedge stitches properly. Adding colour and keeping up a nice selvedge at the same is beyond my skills. Do you have any suggestions? Or maybe a video anywhere on the net that might help? I would appreciate your soonest reply.
Hello, Marjana!
Thank you very much for your question! Please don’t give up you can totally do this! For this blanket it’s okay if your edge stitches are not as tidy as you’d like. You’re going to be attaching an i-cord as the border so that should hide any imperfections.
Let us know if you have further questions!
Best,
Kumeko
I am wanting to knit this pattern with the Blue Sky Alpacas Bulky yarn instead of the Gentle Giant because it is slightly less expensive, and the colors I want are in stock! Because the Blue Sky yarn guages two stitches per inch verse the one stitch per inch of the Gentle Giant, would you recommend casting on twice as many stitches (cast on 53 stitches verse 27 stitches) to still get the same size?
Additionally, the Blue Sky Alpacas Bulky yarn recommends using a size 15 – 19 needle, do you have any advice on how to decide which size to use? I already own size 17 circular needles and would love to not have to buy new ones!
Thanks!
Hi, Samantha!
Thank you for writing in! Since the Blue Sky Bulky gets 2-stitchs per inch I recommend casting on 48 stitches to get a 24-inch width since 2-inches X 24-inches = 48.
Also, I recommend making a gauge swatch with your size 17 needles and see how many stitches per inch you get. If your swatch is too small, you may want to increase your needle size or simply cast on more stitches. Since it is a blanket (and not something that requires meeting the gauge exactly, like a sweater) you can kind of fudge the pattern a bit if you don’t want to buy another needle.
If you have further questions please let us know!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
When I k1b I get a huge stitch that isn’t incorporated into the stitch . In other words, I’m doing it wrong. I tried it on small needles with thinner yarn and it was fine. How do I incorporate the live stitch when I knit below it?
Thanks. I love the yarn and may just go with herring bone or moss stitch.
Hi Susan,
Thank you for writing in and my apologies for the greatly delayed response! It does sound like you are doing things correctly. It will look like you and dropping a live stitch from the needle but having knit into the stitch below, the stitch that you will then drop off of the needle will just elongate. We have a video tutorial that might help you see this a little better; I know that I am a very visual person and the video helped me learn how to correctly execute the stitch into the row below. The tutorial can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2015/08/20/working-into-the-stitch-below/
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
How do you change from color a to color b? Also can you explain the long tail cast on? I’m not sure if I’m doing it right and can’t see the pattern just yet. Thank you
Hi Samantha,
Thanks for writing in and our apologies for the greatly delayed response! We have a handy tutorial for the Long Tail Cast-on and it can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2006/09/29/long-tail-cast-on/
To change from color a to color b, simply drop color a and pick up the yarn for color b. Knit the first stitch, being sure to yank on yarn a and b to tighten up that first stitch.
I hope that this helps!
Casy
My sister loves the look of this blanket but does not want to have to hand wash it. I was thinking of what washable yarn I could sub to make this. Thinking of Anzula For Better or Worsted. Do you think that this would be a good choice for this blanket? If it is, how much yarn would I need for a crib size blanket? I figure that since the yarn is thinner, I would need about double the amount of yardage. (960 yds. instead of 480). Any suggestions for yarn that would work for this blanket that would be washable and oh so baby soft and hold up?
I actually wound up buying Cascade Superwash 128. It had the colors I wanted. The bulky weight (although not even close to the bulkiness of the Gentle Giant), the machine washable factor that my sister wanted, and the affordability factor for me. When I gauge watched in pattern, I got 2.25 stitches to the inch, so I cast on 67 stitches for a 30 inch wide blanket. However, looking at my cast on it still looks small so I’m going to recast on with 75 stitches. I’m also knitting this on US 11s. Wish me luck. Baby is due on 4/30/16.
Hello, Cindy!
Thank you so much for writing in! Sorry for the delayed response! Unfortunately, we do not carry a superwash yarn that has a comparable gauge to our Gentle Giant! You could use Anzula’s For Better or Worsted, but you would need to hold several stands together to get the same gauge. I recommend trying Cascade Superwash 128. It’s a chunky weight yarn, so you could hold it double to get a similar gauge to the Gentle Giant (but even then the gauge might be a bit smaller).
If you decide to try the Superwash 128 you would need about 8-9 skeins total. I highly recommend making a test swatch so that you can calculate the correct number of stitches to cast on to get the crib size blanket. The test swatch will also show you how this yarn looks held double.
Let us know what you think! Again, thank you for your question!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
I’d like to make this blanket in full or even queen size, let’s call it 80″ x 90″. How many skeins (of each color) would be required?
Hello, Monica!
Thank you for your question! The largest size of the blanket is 40-inches by 60-inches and you’d like to make one that’s about 80-inches by 90-inches, so you’re almost doubling the blanket so I recommend getting 24-25 skeins of Color A and 10-11 skeins of Color B. I recommend erring on the side of getting more yarn, just in case you run out! If you don’t end up using some and skeins you can always do an exchange or get store credit, as long as the yarn is in it’s original condition and it’s within six months of the purchase date.
If you have further questions, please let us know!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Upon attempting To begin the beautyberry throw I immediately got stymied! I am instructed to knit 1 below in the very first row. How do you do that when the first row is the cast on row? I have searched the internet to find an tutorial but can find nothing that addresses k1 b on a cast on row! Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks 🙂
Hello, Linda!
Thank you for writing in! This is a confusing step since it doesn’t look like a “k1b” usually looks. You should be able to insert your needle into the next stitch of the cast on to achieve this technique, but if you are really struggling you can knit one row in the main color first so that you can easily access the row below. If you have further questions please let us know.
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Love the blanket but for the life of me can not get it to work. I have been trying a small swatch and keep ending up with protruding loops. I wish there was a video of you doing multiple rows. Thanks for such a beautiful blanket. I will keep trying but I am needing to make a blanket by Wednesday. I think I will have to find something else. : (
Hello, Jennifer!
Thank you for writing in! Sorry for the delayed response! I am sorry that you are having trouble with this pattern. Were you able to get this blanket made or did you have have to find something else?
Did you make a gauge swatch? Perhaps the protruding loops were a result of a loose knitting tension? If this is the case I recommend going down a needle size. Also, you may have tried this, but did you try pulling the working yarn a bit to tighten up the loops?
Please let us know how this went for you.
Best,
Kumeko
Your patterns are so nices!
Thank you!
Hello,
I have a question regarding the beginning. Is there a way to start the pattern on the right side of the work. I want to make a hat, but the nice part happens inside.
Hello Eve,
Thanks for writing in! If you are making a hat in the round with this stitch, the pattern will change to something more like our https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2015/09/25/color-dipped-hat/. At the moment, we do not have a hat pattern set up with this kind of color work. When knitting a hat, you can knit the wrong side face out and turn it inside out at the end. Just simply weave in your ends on the right side. Good luck and happy knitting!
Best,
Adam
Hello,
This is such a lovely blanket. I fall in love with it at first sight. Would someone be so kind to break down the yardage for me? Is the body of the blanket using each color in the ratio 1:1? And how much is used for the i cord?
I’m considering a third color for the I cord due to limited yardage.
I would appreciate any input. Thanks a bunch! ☺️
Maggie
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for writing in and sorry for the late reply. We knit this a long time ago and don’t remember exactly how much yarn was needed for the i-cord, but I can guess it’s probably more than one ball of Gentle Giant at 48 yards per skein. I’d say reserve one ball of your yarn at 110 yards per skein for the i-cord. This should do it!
Best,
Adam
Thank you Adam! I’ll plan accordingly!
Hi,
I’m a Spanish woman, so, please, I hope forgive my lack in language.
I adore this job and I would like to gift to my future nephew a similar blanket. However, I’m a beginner kniter so my question is:
when you said K2, in row 4, what’s meaning that? I understand that I pass the first knit without knitting and knitting y the secon knit?
Thanks for your time.
Hi there,
Hopefully I can help! In row 4 you will knit 2 stitches in the beginning and then you will repeat the following: knit 1 below, knit 1. When you get to the last stitch you’ll knit it. Best of luck and let me know if you have any questions!
-Adam
Thanks for your quick answer. I’ll try again this afternoom and I’ll keep you informed of my progress
I don’t understand how knitting each row will not show any purl stitches on ether side?
I can’t figure out this pattern and it seems so easy
Hi there!
Thanks for your interest in this pattern! “Knitting below” is the technique that lets you “knit” each side without showing purl bumps. I’d try this out on a swatch first and let the magic happen in front of your eyes!
Good luck!
-Adam
I would love to make this blanket to match the size of the Eleventh Hour Marled blanket… 37×48. How many stitches would I have to cast on and how much yarn should I buy? Or maybe it would be better to size the Eleventh hour Marled blanket to be 40×60? Larger would be nicer. I just would like these two blankets to be comparable in size. Thanks!
Hi Amy,
Thanks for writing in! 40×60″ for this blanket is already an option in the pattern. If you look under “sizes”, you’ll want to follow the cast on and suggested yardage for the size listed last within the parenthesis. Let us know how it goes and feel free to write back if you have any questions.
Best,
Adam
Hello, I would like to knit this blanket using only one color of yarn. How will this affect the pattern? Will I still need to “turn” and “slide”? Another great pattern
Hello Renley,
Thanks for writing us. You will still turn and slide your work even while using one color. Nothing in the pattern should change except the fact that you aren’t using a contrast color. I hope this works out for you! I think it’s a great idea and that it’ll turn out lovely!
-Adam
Hola: Podrian subir un tutorial del punto de la mantita? Muchas gracias.
Hi Dalcy,
Thanks for writing in! I am sorry to say that we do not have the resources to create a tutorial for this stitch at the moment. We do do our best to describe how to work it in detail here. We will certainly keep your request in mind!
Best,
Cassy
Buena tarde, yo radico en la ciudad de México, y deseo hacer esta manta pero con medidas en centímetros de 90 cm por 1.20 cm, cuantos gramos necesito de estambre para realizarlo.
Hi Rosario,
Thanks for writing in! We are unable to provide help in Spanish but I have used a translator and think that I can help! 90 x 120 cm roughly translates to the second size of this blanket that is 30 x 45 inches. This size calls for 7 skeins of color A and 3 skeins of color B of our Gentle Giant. Each skein weights 100 grams and has 48 yards or 44 meters. This means that for color A, you will need 700 grams which is 336 yards or 308 meters. For color B, you will need 300 grams which is 144 yards or 132 meters.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Do you have the crochet instructions for this blankie?
Hi Lynn,
Thanks for your interest! At this time there is not a crochet version of this blanket! We will certainly keep your request in mind for future projects!
Best,
Cassy
Tres jolie avez vous les explications en français.Merci !Line
Bonjour Line,
A ce moment nous n’avons pas les resources de traduire nos explications en français mais peut-être à l’avenir! Merci de nous écrire!
-Adam
This blanket is gorgeous! I really want to try making it but I have no idea how to knit with two colors at once. I consider myself an advanced beginner so maybe this is too difficult for me. Do you have a tutorial on using two colors?
Hi Julie,
Thanks for the kind comment and sorry it took so long to get back! I would do a swatch of the stitch with two yarns of the same weight to see if you can get the hang of it. With this pattern you are working a brioche stitch in two colors, so that’s two advanced beginner techniques in one. If you read the directions, however, it’s pretty easy. You will either turn your work or slide your work across the circular needle to continue knitting with one color or change to another color. I’d give it a go if you are up for it!
Best of luck!
-Adam
When starting the blanket on row one on the wrong side there are only purl bumps in the row below. The video tutorial mentions inserting needle into a “V” knit stitch fo a k1b. I’m confused.
Hi JoAnne,
Thanks for writing in and sorry for the late response! Though there are purl bumps, you can still knit below the stitch on the left needle. We describe the knit “v” in the video because that is the kind of stitch we are executing in the video. Let me know if you have more questions!
Best,
Adam
Not sure what I’m missing, but how does one knit into the stitch below on the first row, when there are no stitches below?
Hi Vivian,
Thanks for writing us! If you did a long tail cast on you should have the stitch on the left needle and then the chain below it. Knit into this stitch below if you can. If you can’t, then I would purl across and start from row 2. Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
Hello!
I cannot, for the life of me, figure out how to slide my work. When I’ve finished the row, my work is on the right needle, so…how do I slide my work to the end of the right needle when it’s already on the right needle? Any other sliding, and my working yarn ends up on the inside.
The answers I found in the comments section just aren’t helping me. Any way you could post a video or some kind of picture guide to your tutorial page? I’m more of a visual learner, and I can’t find any other resources that can help me.
Thanks!
Hi there,
Hopefully I can help! First of all, sliding your work requires a double pointed needle or circular needle because you will be knitting across the row and then sliding your work down the cord of the circular needle or body of the DPN to the other side. For example, if you are doing a one-row stripe alternating colors every row, color A and B will start on the same side. You’ll first knit color A and then slide your work back so you can work with color B. I hope this clears things up!
Best,
Adam
I would like to turn this pattern into a cowl. Would it be possible to do this in the round? Or is doing a provisional cast on and connecting the ends a possibility? Any cast on # suggestions would be appreciated too. Thanks!
Hi, Charlene!
Thank you so much for your questions! This would make such a lovely cowl! How long would you like your cowl to be? Large enough to wrap around twice? If so, I would recommend making it at least 45″ wide, so you can cast on about 53 stitches, according to the gauge the original pattern provides. Since the pattern is written in 2D knitting, we don’t recommend trying to convert it to be knit in the round. It would take so much time and effort that you could be knitting! I recommend simply stitching it up the side once your done.
Please let us know if you have further questions! Again, thank you for writing in.
Best,
Kumeko
Will this pattern work with any odd number of stitches or is there a stitch count that must be a multiple of a specific number?
Hi Jean,
Thanks for the question! I think that any odd number will work. I’d try this on a small swatch of about 11 stitches and see if it works out. According to my math it should!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
I am still confused about how to slide my work. Is there a tutorial video that I can watch demonstrating it?
Thanks,
Kayla
Hi Kayla,
Unfortunately there is no tutorial on this on our website but maybe you can find something on Youtube. As for sliding your work, you’ll be working on a double pointed or circular needle. When you get to the end of a row, you’ll have the yarn you just worked with on the left and the yarn you will work with on the right. Without turning the work you’ll slide your work down the cord of the circular needle or body of the double point. After doing this you’ll have the needle with the yarn your intend to work with in your left hand and you’ll be able to knit the second color to meet up with the color you just knit. I hope this clarifies things! Let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
I’m thinking about making this using 2 strands of DK weight yarn together, one navy and one pink as these are my niece’s color.
How many stitches do you think I should cast on? And, what size needles, please.
Thank you so much for all your beautiful free patterns. You are so generous to all of us knitting enthusiasts.
Happy holidays to you all.
Marcia
Hi Marica,
Thanks for writing in! Given that 2 strands of DK would be much thinner than the yarns used here, I would suggest knitting a gauge swatch on US 8 or 9 and see when gauge you get as well as whether or not you like the resulting fabric. If the fabric is too tight, try a US 10 and if it is too loose, try a US 7!
This stitch pattern works over an odd number of stitches. With that in mind, you will multiply the number of stitches that you are getting per inch by the width that you are interested in knitting and cast on the nearest odd number.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Thanks so much. I” going to start on size 9 needles. I did a stockinnette gauge and came up,with 3.5 st to the inch. Is it ok to use that as my reference? I was going to cast on 85 or 91 stitches and go from there.
Thanks so much.
Marcia
Hi Marcia,
Thanks for writing back to us! A stockinette gauge is going to yield a very different gauge than a K1B gauge, so I suggest doing your swatch in the stitch the blanket uses just to be sure. With the gauge you’ve provided, you’ll get a 24-26″ wide blanket in stockinette. Is this what you’re aiming for? Let us know!
-Adam
This is such a beautiful stitch pattern. Would you say it’s possible to use it for a sweater (knitted from the bottom up, so only decreases)?
Thanks,
Lana
I forgot the sleeves will have to have increases as well, which makes it more complicated… I haven’t tried the pattern yet, but it looks like it’s created over a small number of stitches, so maybe decreses and increases at the edges are possible. Does that make sense?
Thanks again,
Lana
Hi Lana,
Thanks for writing in! It certainly could be possible but I do believe that you will need to do a fair amount of trial and error to get it down. The increases could certainly be done along the seem of the arm but I am not quite sure how they would work. I would suggest playing around with swatches and I am sure that you will get it!
Best,
Cassy
Hi Lana,
Thanks for writing us! I think it’s totally possible to do a whole sweater in this and quite a good idea. You’ll have to play with the decreases on a swatch to see which look best, but after a few trials you’ll get it. Thanks and best of luck!
-Adam
I’ve just finished the blanket and need to start on the border. I’ve read your tutorial on Icords but for the life of me I can’t figure out how to do this attached Icord border. Do you have a video tutorial on this? Any suggestions you might have would be greatly appreciated
Hi Lori,
Thanks for the question. While we don’t have a video on this at the moment, I suggest looking at YouTube for some tutorials. You might have some luck there.
-Adam
Thanks for the reply. One more question, I’m from Toronto, is your yarn available in Canada? With the exchange on the dollar, ordering yarn directly from your site is a tad costly
Thanks
Hi Lori,
Thanks for writing in. Our yarn is only available in our NYC store and online unfortunately. Sorry about this!
-Adam
If I change to size 13 needle approximately how many stitches do I cast on to get 40×60.
Hi Judy,
Thanks for writing in! Your cast one number will depend on the gauge that you are getting! I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch and counting how many stitches you are getting per inch. This pattern works over any odd number of stitches. So once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by 40 and cast on the nearest odd number and you should be good to go!
Best,
Cassy
Two questions about the Beautyberry Blanket:
1. If I slip 1 instead of K1 at the beginning of each row do you think this will make a neat enough edge to skip the i-cord edge?
2. I’m looking at using a machine washable yarn so this can be an everyday baby blanket. The yarn I am considering ordering is 3.5st/inch (either Berroco Vintage Chunky or Cascade Superwash 128). Color A uses 336yds of Gentle Giant and color B uses 144 yd and the gauge is about 1st/inch. So if I take 336yds X 3.5 = 1176 — is that an okay ballpark estimation of how much yarn to order?
When I made the Chevron Baby Blanket I used a worsted weight yarn (the gauge was about 2x what the pattern called for) held double and ordered twice as much as the pattern called for. This worked for that pattern and looked great. I swatched this pattern doing the same and it just doesn’t look good with yarn held double (or at least this particular yarn) so I want to go with a bulkier yarn.
Thanks for any guidance you can provide. I love your patterns — particularly the blankets.
Hi Jean,
Thank you for writing in! I am happy to help you with your question!
1. While slipping a stitch on a standard pattern creates a tidier edge, here, due to the fact that you are slipping the work back and working the same row 2 times in a row, you will be slipping the same stitch 2 times in a row. This may create a issue in the general pattern. Additionally, we used the i-cord here to hide the color transitions as well as create a neat and beautiful edging. If you omit the i-cord, you will not hide these transitions.
2.You calculations seem good to me. When changing gauges, I always like to add about 10% just in case.
Thank you again for your kind words and I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I would like to do this pattern in a king size blanket would that be possible? If so what would be the cast on number?
Hi Mikaleila,
Thanks for writing in! This pattern works over any odd number of stitches! I have found measurements of 108×90 for a king size blanket. At this size, your cast on number would be 129 stitches. You will also need 4 times the amount of yarn for the largest size.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi,
I was wondering how much of each color I would need if I wanted to do the i-cord in the dark color (B) instead of the light one?
Thank you! I’ve been wanting to knit this for a long time!
Hello Jen!
Thank you for writing. Unfortunately, since we knit this a long time ago we don’t remember exactly how much yarn was needed for the i-cord, but I can guess it’s probably more than one ball of Gentle Giant at 48 yards per skein. We think that reserving about 110 yards of the dark color for the i-cord should do it. Please let us know if you have any more questions!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
How do I rip out the stitches without ripping the whole thing???
thank you
Hi Toby,
Thanks for the question. When ripping back any sort of knit below structure you will have to fix it using the brioche stitch. Click here if you are unfamiliar. Knit below and brioche are made similarly, so when you rip back your knit below stitch you’ll see that there is a stitch, a long float and then another stitch. You’ll want to restring your stitches so that there is an alternating pattern of a “normal stitch” and a stitch that has the yarn over floating over the top of it (just like the brioche stitch). After you’ve restrung your stitches you’ll knit the single stitch and knit together the stitch and the yarn over. It’s very hard to explain over this comments thread, but you’ll also find many tutorials on YouTube!
All the best,
Adam
Hi,
I want to know for the first row : how to do the k1b?
What cast on do you use?
Thanks and have a nice day!
Marina
Hi, Marina!
Thank you for writing in! We used the Long Tail cast on for this blanket. To do the k1b you’ll insert the tip of the right needle into the stitch below the next stitch from front to back, knit normally (wrapping the yarn around the needle and pulling it back through the stitch below) and let the stitch above fall from the left needle. This may look a bit tricky since it doesn’t look the way a “k1b” usually looks, however, you should be able to insert your needle into the next stitch of the cast on to achieve this technique. Please let us know if you have anymore questions.
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Your tutorial video on “knitting into the stitch below” was wonderful and I understand it! However, in Row 1 of this pattern, how do you knit into the stitch below if this is the first row and there is NO stitch below?
Hi Sue!
Thank you for your question! We are delighted that you found the tutorial helpful! To do the k1b you’ll insert the tip of the right needle into the stitch below the next stitch from front to back, knit normally (wrapping the yarn around the needle and pulling it back through the stitch below) and let the stitch above fall from the left needle. This may look a bit tricky since it doesn’t look the way a “k1b” usually looks, however, you should be able to insert your needle into the next stitch of the cast on to achieve this technique. Please let us know if you have anymore questions
Best wishes,
Kumeko
I love this pattern — am using it to knit a dish towel out of leftover cotton yarn. I have one problem: when there’s an error, I cannot figure out how to unknit it successfully — I’ve torn the thing out about three times, and now, 12 inches in, I’m reluctant to do it again.
Hi Janet,
Thanks for writing in. Fixing any knit below stitch is difficult to explain in writing, but I’ll do my best. First, you’ll want to familiarize yourself with the brioche stitch. In order to fix fisherman’s rib, you need to know how to knit brioche. When taking fisherman’s rib off the needles you’ll see that there is a normal stitch and then an elongated stitch with a “float”. You’ll want to restring the normal stitch and then the elongated stitch, hanging the float over this stitch like when you yarn over a slipped stitch in brioche. In the next row you’ll knit the elongated stitch and float together like in brioche. I hope this makes sense! If not, I’m sure there are fix it tutorials on YouTube.
Thanks,
Adam
When I cast on 27 st I can get the first row to work but the next row does not end with a k1. It can’t if you k the first two sts. as pattern states
Help
Hi Gigi,
Thanks for writing in! I am sorry to hear that you are having difficulty. Row 2 should work out to 27 stitches. You will begin k2 and then *k1b, k1* (repeating these 2 stitches between the *s) and then knit the last stitch. So the row begins with 2 stitches, then you repeat the 2 stitch combo 12 times. At this point, you should have worked 26 stitches and this leaves the last stitch to be knit.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
By my calculation this blanket would cost over $400 to knit! Surely there’s a cheaper yarn that you could offer?
Hi Jill,
Thanks for writing us. I suggest Cascade Magnum for a less costly blanket. Hope you like the suggestion!
-Adam
Is it possible to make the beautyberry blanket using crochet instead? TM
Hello Shelley,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we do not have a crochet version of this blanket. I will certainly pass your request along!
-Marilla
Hello, I would like to knit this blanket using only one color of yarn.
I’m looking at using a machine washable yarn so this can be an everyday baby blanket and does not shed.The yarn I am considering ordering is either Purl Soho Cotton Pure, Blue Sky Alpacas Worsted Cotton or , Cascade Yarns Ultra Prima. Which one do you recommend? How many stitches would I need to cast for a crib blanket using the yarn you recommend? How many skeins would I need? Thanks for any guidance you can provide. I love your patterns — particularly the blankets.
Helo Susie,
Thanks for writing in and your kind words! I love this idea and I think it could be beautiful in all three of these yarns. It’s tricky to give you an exact estimate on cast on and amounts needed without a gauge swatch, but I’m happy to give you a rough estimate. Our Cotton Pure Yarn and Cascade’s Ultra Pima have the same gauge so depending on your needle size (I would suggest a US5 or US6) I would cast on approximately 145(Baby) 181(crib) 241(Throw). I would estimate that you will need 4 Skeins for the baby size 7 for the crib size and 12 for the throw size. Cascade’s Ultra Pima has about 40 less yards than our cotton pure so you might need to get an extra skein if using Pima.
Blue Sky Alpacas Worsted Cotton is a thicker yarn so, Again depending on the needle size (US 7 – 9) you end up using I would suggest casting on approximately 120(Baby) 150(crib) 200(Throw). I believe you would need about 5(baby), 7(Crib) or 12(Trow).
Before jumping in I would knit a gauge swatch so you know exactly how many stitches per inch you are getting. I hope all of this information makes sense and is helpful. Please let me know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I am starting this blanket. I understand how to knit 1 below. However, at the beginning, I can’t seem to K1B on first row. Are you supposed to knit one row first? I have tried several times to K1B on first row, after casting on, and I can’t seem to get it to work. Thank you so much!
Hi Chaun,
Thanks for writing in! We do not knit a row before beginning the k1b. Although it may seem a little awkward, you can k1b using the cast on. To do the k1b you’ll insert the tip of the right needle into the stitch below the next stitch from front to back, knit normally (wrapping the yarn around the needle and pulling it back through the stitch below) and let the stitch above fall from the left needle. This may look a bit tricky since it doesn’t look the way a “k1b” usually looks, however, you should be able to insert your needle into the next stitch of the cast on to achieve this technique.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
How should I approach blocking this finished blanket?
Hello Kathleen,
Thanks for the question! I do not recommend wet blocking this yarn if you don’t have to. Steam blocking is your best option, so I’d give it a little steam and let it lay flat to dry. Best of luck!
-Marilla
Hello! Such a beautiful pattern, it will definitely be my next pattern. I do have a question though: do you have to cast on stitches by a certain multiple? I am looking to make this with a worsted weight yarn, so I know I’m going to have to cast on a lot more stitches. A lot of patterns will say “cast on x # of stitches, or any multiple of 6/even number/odd number (etc.),” is that important here, or will any number of stitches work out okay? I hope my question makes sense, and thank you in advance!
Hi Lacey,
Thanks for writing in! Any odd number of stitches should work with this lovely pattern! Once you know your gauge using the stitch pattern, you can multiply the number of stitches by the number of inches wide that you would like the blanket and then cast on the nearest odd number!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I want to make this Beautyberry blanket as a scarf instead . Let’s say 8″ x 70″. So from all the comments I’ve read, I’m thinking I would cast on either 9 stitches or 11 stitches. Does that sound about right?
(I’m leaning towards 9 stitches since the iCord would add some additional width. Or maybe I should go with 7 stitches …)
Any guidance you can provide is appreciated.
Love your patterns.
Cat.
Should have also asked, for an 8″ x 70″ scarf, how much yarn would I need? …. 2 skeins color A and 1 skein color B??
Hi Cat,
Thanks for writing in! For a roughly 8″ x 70″ scarf, you will cast on either 9 or 11 stitches. I think that you will need 3-4 skeins of color A and 2 skeins of color B to get the length.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I am going to be attempting this as a crib blanket but plan to try it out with lion brand super bulky weight yarn with size 13 circular needles. Wondering if you could advise on what length of yarn i would need to complete this as a crib blanket. Each skein has 81 yds. Thank you and so excited to make this blanket!
Hi Zoe,
Our Gentle Giant has 48 yards per skein. If you can get gauge with the yarn you are substituting you will need about 250 yards of the main color and 100 yards for the contrasting color to make a crib blanket. I would recommend doing a gauge swatch to make sure you can get gauge with your new yarn!
Happy knitting!
Carly
What is the name of the stich? Your invention ?
Hi Suzanne,
Thanks for the question! The stitch is basically a version of 2 color fluffy brioche using the fisherman’s rib technique instead of the classic brioche technique!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
This is a lovely blanket but I want to make the 40 X 60 size blanket using the more affordable Magnum yarn. Yarn amount….Color A, 3 skeins and color B, 2 skeins, or do I need more? Thank you for any suggestions.
MaggieM
Hi Maggie!
For this project you need about 624 yards of color A and 288 yards of color B. If you use Cascade Magnum I would recommend 6 skeins for color A and 3 skeins for color B.
I hope this helps!
Carly
Hi Carly,
Thank you so much for letting me know how much yarn I need. : )
I am having trouble understanding the “slide work” part. I have checked YouTube as you have suggested to others in the comment section but unfortunately cannot find one on this subject. Do you have a video you could share?
Thank you
Mary
Hello Mary,
Thank you for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not currently have a video for this technique, Is there a particular aspect of the “slide work” that is tripping you up? All pattern means when it says to slide work is to, without turning your work, slide your work from one one needle on your circulars to the opposite needle of your circulars , instead of turning your work like you normally would when beginning a new row.
I hope this clears things up for you, but if not we can certainly continue to trouble shoot it.
Warmly,
Marilla
Hi,
I’d like to use Blue Sky worsted cotton yarn in two colors for this blanket (the same yarn I used for the Cozy Corners blanket) on a size 9 32″ circular needle. Is this possible? I think I can adjust the pattern… though if you can tell me the # of stitches are in a repeat that would help.
I’m really looking to use the Blue Sky worsted cotton for a two color baby blanket in about a 24″ x 36″ blanket. Could I use this yarn in the Mosaic baby blanket pattern I have from Purl Soho?
Thanks tons,
Michelle
Hello Michelle,
Thank you for reaching out! This blanket should knit up beautifully on a size 9 in Blue Sky’s Worsted Cotton. You just need to be sure that you are casting on an Odd Number of stitches.
Blue Sky’s Worsted Cotton would also work well with the Mosaic Blanket with no adjustments needed.
I hope this is helpful and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m using this pattern to make placemats and I’m liking the effect, but the first color row (purple above) are more triangles instead of a berry. Not sure what I’m doing wrong.
Hi Yvonne,
Thanks for reaching out! It is hard to say for sure without seeing your knitting, but I think this sounds normal for this pattern! If you look closely at the pictures, you can see that the “berries” are just somewhat stretched knit stitches, and if you are using a yarn that is less puffy and lofty than Gentle Giant, they will look even more like ordinary knit stitches. Much of the berry effect is a function of the super bulky gauge and loft of the yarn, but the stitch pattern still creates an interesting color and texture dynamic in lighter weight yarns! If you still think something might be wrong, please feel free to send us a picture of your work at [email protected] so we can take a look!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
This is beautiful!
I’ve got a bunch of beautiful fingering-weight yarn, how could I translate this pattern to work with that weight, and scale it up to be about 60×60″? Thank you!
Hi Alex,
Thanks for writing in and for the kind words! In order to convert this pattern to fingering weight, I would suggest knitting a swatch in pattern on US 3 or 4 needles. You can then multiply your stitches per inch by 60 and round to the nearest odd number to get your cast on number.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
I want to use the knitted cast-on for this blanket. Will I need to purl my first row or can I go right into the k1b pattern? Or would the cable cast-on be better?
Hi Stefy,
Thanks for reaching out! Due to the fact that it will have a thicker, more stable edge, I do think a cable cast on would make it easier to work the first row without working a set up row, and it should also make it a bit easier to work the attached i-cord at the end.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Yes, thank you! If I wanted to do a set up row anyway, should it be a knit row or purl row? Also, if I do a set up row, should the last row of the blanket be an all-knit (or all-purl) row as well?
Hi Stefy,
Since the first row of the pattern is a wrong side row, I would work a knit row before beginning. To make the other end match, I would end with Row 5, and then work a purl row while binding off.
Best of luck, and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
I would like to make this using dk weight since I live in Arizona. Should I double the amount of stitches cast on using a size 10 or 11 needle?
Thanks in advance.
Hello Amalia,
Thanks for reaching out! This is a lovely idea. For a dk yarn I would recommend knitting up a gauge swatch on a US6 or US7 and seeing how many stitches per inch you are getting. Once you know this you can multiply this number by the width that you would like your blanket to be and go from there! You will just want to be sure that you are casting on an odd number of stitches.
I hope this helps and let us know how it goes!
I’m on row 3 and struggling with the k1b – it looks like I’m knitting into the back of one of the k1b stitched from the previous row and I’m not sure how to do it (it looks like there are two loops around the stitch and I don’t see any V if that makes sense). Do I go through both of those? Or am I missing the point completely. Thanks!
Catherine
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for writing in! I am sorry to hear that you are having difficulties! It sounds as though you are off by a stitch in your repeat. One row 3 the k1b should be into the stitch next to the stitch with 2 collars on it. I knit up a little swatch myself and accidentally did this the first time around. Row 2 ends with 2 knit stitches and row 3 begins with a knit and then a k1b. With that in mind you should be k1b into the knit stitch and then so on moving down the row. I accidentally knit the first 2 stitches and then k1b into the stitch with 2 collars on it (the k1b from the previous row). Perhaps this happened for you as well.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I love this and love the stitch. I’d like to try using it for a hat. Is there a pattern or suggestion for doing this pattern on the round?
Thanks so much!
Hello Roda,
Thank you for reaching out! We do not have a hat pattern in this stitch. Unfortunately, because the pattern is written in 2D knitting, it would be pretty tricky to convert it to be knit in the round.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I was curious how many stitches you’d recommend for a double size?
Hello Gina,
Thank you for reaching out! This stitch pattern is worked over any odd number of stitches so you could cast on 55 (71, 91) to double any of the sizes.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
This would cost a small fortune to knit. You’ve gotta be rich or get gifted the yarn
Hello Ann,
We hear you! We totally understand that sometimes our yarn suggestions are more of an inspiration than a reality for many people. We are always happy to recommend less expensive (but still beautiful!) alternatives. In this case, we suggest that you try Cascade’s Magnum.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I noticed I made a mistake while knitting the blanket several rows down. I would like to drop the stitch to the point of the error but don’t know how to pick back up the stitch. Any suggestions? I haven’t been able to find any tutorials on fixing this stitch.
I don’t want to make a bigger mess.
Hello Laura,
Thank you for reaching out- we have certainly all been there! Because you are knitting into the stitch below for this project it will be very difficult to drop down and fix the mistake. I would reccomend ripping back instead of dropping down for this particular stitch.
I hope this helps and good luck!
-Marilla
I love this blanket. I’m an intermediate knitter and have worked on the blanket for months. Is there a tube video that can show me how to fix the mistakes. I can’t pick up stitches when I make mistakes, therefore I have to pull the whole thing out and start over. Please help I love this stitch.
Hello Vicky,
Thank you for reaching out. I’m sorry to hear about your frustrating experience! This type of stitch is always a challenge when fixing mistakes. Are you having trouble ripping back? With this type of stitch I usually will go back stitch by stitch, because it is so easy to pick your stitches up incorrectly.
I hope this helps and good luck!
-Marilla
Would it be possible to make this blanket in your super soft merino instead of the gentle giant and if so, what size needle and # of stitches would you need to cast on if making the 30×45 size blanket?
Hello Jacqui,
Thank you for reaching out! I think this blanket would be lovely in our Super Soft Merino. I would try knitting it up on a US#13. To figure out a goof cast on number, you will need to knit up a gauge swatch to figure out how many stitches per inch you are getting. Once you get this number you will be able to use it to figure out a good cast on number. This stitch pattern works over an odd number of stitches. With that in mind, you will multiply the number of stitches that you are getting per inch by the width that you are interested in knitting and cast on the nearest odd number.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Marilla,
Thank you for your quick response. I ‘m 5 stitches in on my K1K1b and I made the mistake of knitting k2 row. Would like to correct going back stitch by stitch, but have two loose bars of stitches . Please help explain what to do with the loose stitch from below. If not I can just keep going on the the row?
Sorry for being confusing..
Vicki
Hi Vicki,
Thanks for reaching out! When you run into these stitches while taking out a row of this blanket, I would use a crochet hook to pick them up as if they were a dropped stitch so that you can k1b normally when you are ready to work the row again.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thank you so much for your patience. I’ve manage to work it out with your help , and the blanket is coming along great!
I love this blanket! Would you recommend blocking it before attaching the i- cord or after ? I have done the stitch before and it seemed really tight and didn’t have much stretch. The blanket seems very even all the way around but, since its a baby I must give it a wash.
Thank you again for all your help.
Vciki
Hi Vicki,
Thanks for reaching out! It is really up to you whether or not to block before working the i-cord – we usually don’t, but if you have had problems with the applied i-cord turning out too tight in the past, it might be a good idea. As you are working the i-cord, you can check after the first few inches to see if you are happy with the tension and go up a needle size if necessary.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hey I love this pattern and I’m knitting it for a friend’s daughter – I wanted to put her name in it – what would be the best way to do it?I was thinking that after finishing Row 6 of the pattern above to start a colour block of standard stitches (approx 24 rows) and knit her name with the contrast colour into that section. The first 3 and last 3 rows of that 24 row section are just standard stitches in one colour – for the final row should I knit it according to Row 6 of that section or should I just plain start from Row 1 after completing 24 rows? Sorry if that doesn’t make sense
Hello Stephanie,
Thank you for reaching out – this is such a lovely and cute idea! I think this all sounds good- I would reccomend starting with row 1 when jumping back into the pattern after your 24 rows.
Let us know how it goes and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi! I’m sure you’ve answers this before, but I’m having a terrible time tryin to do the k1b on the 1st row. I’ve tried long tail cast on, and knit cast on. I just can’t find the stich to ge into with out losing everything. Is there a different cast on method or can I knit/Purl a second row and just start from there?
Thanks!
Hi Kim,
Thanks for writing in! When working the k1b on the first row, you do need to use a long tail cast on and will be inserting your needle just under the “purl” bump from the long tail cast on – it’s a bit tricky but the spot is there! If you prefer, you could certainly purl one row as a setup row and then begin the stitch pattern. If you choose to do that I would also work one plain row before casting off at the end so the edges match.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am trying to start this blanket. Are you starting the knit below on the first row after casting on? If so, how do you do it? When I tried this it made the yarn very tight.
Hello Mary Ellen,
Thank you for reaching out! When working the k1b on the first row, you do need to use a long tail cast on and will be inserting your needle just under the “purl” bump from the long tail cast on – it’s a bit tricky but the spot is there! If you prefer, you could certainly purl one row as a setup row and then begin the stitch pattern. If you choose to do that I would also work one plain row before casting off at the end so the edges match.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi,
Lovely pattern! I tried to do a swatch so that I made sure I knew what I was doing before starting the blanket. I’m stuck on row 1! I can see how to execute the k1b after rows have been knit. But the pattern says cast on and then the next row says to k1b in the cast on. When I do this, I have huge loops. There are not stitches to knit into below, so how is this done?
Thank you,
Deb
Hi Deb,
Thanks for writing in! When working the k1b on the first row, you do need to use a long tail cast on and will be inserting your needle just under the “purl” bump from the long tail cast on – it’s a bit tricky but the spot is there! If you prefer, you could certainly purl one row as a setup row and then begin the stitch pattern. If you choose to do that I would also work one plain row before casting off at the end so the edges match.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
If I decide to pearl a row, do the rows get turned and slid as the directions say. Also, when you slide you slide, you move the stitches to the other needle. Is this correct? Thanks
Hello Mary,
Thank you for reaching out! This is a great question. To add a purl row you don’t need to do anything special. After casting on, you will purl one row, turn your work and begin row one.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi!
I’m very interested in attempting this project. I’ve loved your blanket patterns for such a long time and am excited to try and take on something more challenging! However, I’m not sure how to add-in color B if you cast-on color A. Furthermore, I was wondering if the border is necessary to add or if there is a simpler way to finish the blanket. I’ve never used double pointed needles before and don’t want to set myself up for failure if it’s avoidable!
Thank you so much!
Hi Helen,
Thanks for reaching out! When you start working with Color B, you will simply begin knitting with it, just as if you were starting a stripe of a new color, leaving the tail of Color A where it is to be used later. The I-Cord border adds a lovely edge so we do recommend it, and it’s really quite easy to do! Even though it is done with double pointed needles, it isn’t the same technique as using double pointed needles to knit in the round, and you could use a circular needle if you prefer. You can see how to do it in our Attached I-Cord tutorial!
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello! I am having trouble with the 3rd row, color b, showing through on the front side. This adds an extra row of color b. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong. I appreciate your help!
Mikala
Hi Mikala,
Thanks for reaching out! It’s hard to say what might be going wrong without seeing your work, but I think you are missing the instruction to slide your work at the end of Row 3. Since Row 4 is worked with Color A, you will need to slide all your stitches to the other end of your circular needle so that the tail of Color A left from working Row 2 is available to knit Row 4. It’s also possible that you just need to continue working a few more rows to see how the colorwork turns out – since each row knits into the row below, the stitches immediately below the needle won’t look quite how they should, but as the blanket progresses the pattern should start to reveal itself!
Best of luck, and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you for your response! I think I’ Sliding the work correctly, as I have the correct yarn color when I need it. I’ve done a swatch four times doing 12 rows. I did email a picture of my work to your customer service email. Again, thank you so much for your response!
Morning…I love the look af this blanket…I just purchase the good big wool to make the brindle blanket but this looks more interesting of a pattern…..I know the gauge will be totally different but would that yarn work for this pattern??” Thanks so much!
Hello Lynn,
Thanks for reaching out! Since you have the good wool coming to you I would knit up a little swatch with it in this pattern to see if you like it. If you do like it, you can always measure it to see how many stitches per inches you are getting to figure out a good cast on number.
I hope this is helpful and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi
Can you carry the colors up the sides somehow instead of having tails everywhere? If yes, how do I do it. Thanks!!
Jane
Hello Jane,
Thank you for reaching out! Yes, you should not cut your yarn every time you switch colors. When you are finished with one color you simply let it rest as you start with you next color. Because you are changing colors every two rows, there is no need to carry up, as it will just be there waiting for you. The reason you only see Heirloom Whit on the edges of the blanket is because we finish the blanket with an attached I-cord.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I would love to knit this stitch as a cowl, but haven’t figured out how to do it in the round… I’m going to play around with it a little and can probably figure it out, but thought maybe someone had done this and could give me pointers… Any advice?
Hi Joan,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, we don’t have instructions for knitting this stitch in the round; however, you could always knit the cowl flat and seam it up when you are done!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
This stitch would be amazing as a hat ……. but can you knit it in the round ??
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t have instructions for knitting this stitch in the round or a hat pattern that uses this stitch, but I will certainly pass your request along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Hi!
I got to the end of my Beautyberry blanket a year ago but never did the bind off. For some reason I am finding the bind off instructions a little confusing…could you maybe explain the 5th row bind off a little more clearly? I’m so close to finishing and don’t want to mess up the bind off before I even start thinking about the “2-stitch” i-cord thingy that I’ve never done, but if Elizabeth Zimmerman calls it the idiot cord, how hard can it be??? : ) Thanks in advance…I know this old but I hope to hear from someone…thanks again. Maggie M
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m so sorry for the delay! To bind off this blanket, you will simply be working Row 5 as you always have before, but every time you have two stitches on your right hand needle, bind one off. In other words, you will start with a k1 and k1b, then bind off a stitch, k1, bind off one, k1b, bind off one, k1, bind off one, and so on until you have bound off all the stitches in pattern. I assure you that the attached i-cord is quite straightforward once you give it a try, and hopefully our tutorial will help you get the hang of it!
Best,
Julianna
This pattern looks awesome! I have some super bulky yarn that I would love to use with it–I’m wondering if I could use this slightly thinner yarn with size 11 circular needles, and just have more stitches in each row and more rows? Do you think the pattern would be too tight or hard to manage?
Thanks!
Hello Maria,
Thanks for writing! This will depend on your gauge, but I think it should work great. I would recommend knitting up a small gauge swatch to make sure you are happy with the stitch texture before jumping into your blanket.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I would love to knit a blanket for an adult. IF I used the Blueberry pattern…how many stitches would I need to cast on and how much wool would I need?
Hello Shelley,
Thanks for reaching out! The throw size is a nice option for an adult blanket. It is 60″x40″ and requires 13 skeins of Gentle Giant for color A and 6 in color B. The cast on for this size is 45 stitches. If you are interested in going larger this stitch can be worked over any odd number. This means that you can use your gauge to determine your cast on. For example for 45″ wide you would cast on about 53 stitches, according to the gauge the original pattern provides.
Let us know if you have further questions and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Im confused about the Slide Work. I’ve been looking for videos and can’t seem to find. I see you have a nice video for the K1b. I would love to make this for my first grand child ( really want to do something special). But I’m truly stuck on this Slide Work part.
Hi Bridget,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have a video for this step, but hopefully I can explain it! In order to knit this blanket, you will need to use a circular needle and not straight needles. When you see the instructions to turn the work, you will turn the blanket as you normally would by switching which needle is in which hand and the first stitch of the next row will be the last stitch you just knitted. When the instructions have you slide the work, you will slide the entire blanket to the other end of the circular needle, and the first stitch of the next row will be the first stitch of the row you just knitted. It can be difficult to visualize, but when you start knitting the blanket, I’m sure it will start making a lot more sense!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi All! Is there a video for this pattern, for a few rows? I’m having troubles understanding what I am doing! When the instruction is to knit one, does that always mean together with the strand that comes from “knitting one below”?
Thanks a lot!
Hi Camille,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources at the moment to create a video for this stitch, but I’m happy to help explain it! If you are ending up with extra strands of yarn on your needle, it sounds like you might be working the k1b incorrectly, so I would recommend reviewing our Working Into The Stitch Below tutorial. When it is worked correctly, you will end up with just a single strand ordinary knit stitch on the needle, so when the pattern has you just knit one, you will be knitting without any modifications or extra steps.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
What is the name of the pattern? (I.E. honeycomb, fisherman’s etc.) I’m just getting into knitting but I pick things up quickly with a video. I saw that you don’t currently have the resources and was hoping to try and find a video of something similar but don’t what to search for.
Best,
Laura
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out! This is a variation of our Two-Color Honeycomb Brioche stitch, but worked by knitting into the stitch below instead of with with yarn overs. The technique in our video is different, but you may still find it helpful!
Best,
Julianna
Thank you for this! I was also curious if there is one color that is use predominately more in volume (e.i. should I buy more skeins of color A over color B) I’m a bit confused on the skeins reference on this page.
Hi Laura,
Yes, you will need more of Color A than Color B! You will need 5 (7, 13) skeins of Color A, and 2 (3, 6) skeins of Color B. The numbers in parentheses refer to the larger sizes of the blanket.
Best,
Julianna
Does having thicker yarn help with this particular stitch? I’m having a lot of trouble getting my stitches to be uniform. with typical stitches I know how and when to tension my yarn but with this pattern sometimes I’ll pull and a string to tension it and I end up losing the stitch altogether. If I don’t tension it I get these random huge loops.
Do you also have any suggestions for the very first 6 rows? the tension problem is the worst in those rows. Should I try using thicker yarn with a smaller needle?
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for writing in! It’s hard to say what might be going wrong without seeing your work, but it sounds like your knitting might not be tight enough overall. This stitch should work well in any weight of yarn, but no matter what yarn you use, you should be using a needle that is the correct size for your yarn to create a dense fabric. If you aren’t already, I would recommend checking the label for your yarn and using the recommended needle size for your swatch to see if it improves things. If the tension issues are intermittent, you might just need more practice to get the hang of knitting in the stitch below!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi there. The yarn I’m using shows a gauge of 2.5 stitches per inch on size 15 needles. If I want to do the crib size blanket, could you advise on how many stitches I should cast on? I am SO bad at figuring out the math. Thank you so much!
Hi Alexis,
Thanks for reaching out! Since textured stitch patterns can result in a very different number of stitches per inch than what is listed on the label, the best way to find out is to knit a gauge swatch in pattern! I would recommend knitting your swatch on the US 15 needles that are recommended for the yarn. You can then measure your stitches per inch, multiply by the desired width of your blanket, and round to the nearest odd number to determine how many stitches to cast on.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thanks! I think I’m getting about 2 stitches per inch. So now I would multiple 2 by 45 (90)…so I would choose 89 or 91??
Oh wait, I would multiple it by 30, not 45. So 2 stitches per inch x 30 is 60, so I’d do 59 or 61. Correct?
Hi Alexis,
Yes, you’ve got it! You could go with either 59 or 61 stitches depending on whether you prefer your blanket slightly on the narrower or wider side, but the difference will only be about an inch. It sounds like you’re ready to cast on!
Best,
Julianna
I am working on my gauge swatch and having trouble. I could not knit row 1 correctly into the long tail cast on, so I purled a row to start instead, as I have seen you instruct in others’ comments. But then that means on the next row when I begin to k1b, I’m on the right side of the fabric, correct? But row 1 is a wrong side row. So, does my purl row count as row 1, and I should begin the pattern on row 2? If so, will this mess up the design? Would I need to end the blanket on a row other than row 4?
Also, I am confused when I do get to a wrong side row. Is it supposed to be purl 1 below? Or am I in fact knitting into purled stitches?
I am super excited to start this project; Gentle Giant is a beautiful yarn! I just need some help getting past this initial confusion 🙂
Hi Amy,
Thanks for reaching out! Because the edge of the blanket will be finished with an attached i-cord, you could really start with either a knit or a purl row. It’s a bit easier to work the k1b when the knit side is facing you, so we suggest starting with a purl row. The Row 1 after that will still be a wrong side row and you will still end the blanket with a Row 4!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I don’t understand what I’m doing wrong at all! When I knit 1 below on a right side row, everything is a-okay, but things go haywire when I knit one below on a wrong side row. I insert my needle into the stitch below, wrap the yarn, pull it through, let the top stitch fall off the needle and give it a very gentle tug, just as in your tutorial video. On a right side row that works fine, and the stitch that I allow to fall off the needle tightens up nicely, but on a wrong side row, the stitch that I let fall off the needle isn’t attached to anything, so when I give it that gentle tug, it just unravels. I have tried sooooo many times to knit up a gauge swatch, but always encounter this problem right away when I get to row 3. Please help!
Hi Amy
Thanks for reaching out! It is a little hard for me try and figure out what is going wrong without seeing your work! This stitch pattern only works over an odd number of stitches, so I would make sure your gauge swatch does too, and watching the Working into the Stitch Below tutorial just to make sure you are doing it correctly. I hope one of these things helps and happy knitting!
Best
Jessica
Hi. I want to knit a throw that measures 50” X 70”. I have 670 yards of Purl Soho’s Super Soft Merino, Peacock Blue color, and 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Super Soft Merino, Oyster Grey color, Can you tell me how many stitches do I need to cast for a throw this size? Can I use the Super Soft Merino yarn instead of the Purl Soho’s Gentle Giant? How many more skeins of yarn I will need? If you have the Peacock Blue color available or where can I buy it What needle size do I need?
Hi Suzette,
Thanks for writing in! Super Soft Merino is quite a bit thinner than Gentle Giant, so you will have to make some changes to the pattern to compensate for the lighter weight yarn. I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch in pattern on a US 11 needle. You can then measure your stitches per inch, multiply by 50 inches, and round to the nearest odd number to determine how many stitches to cast on. It’s a bit trickier to estimate how much yardage you will need when changing the gauge like this, but I think you will need around 17 skeins of Super Soft Merino and 8 skeins of Color B.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
The video for k1b is terrific! Not understanding how to k1b into purl row…? Assistance would be so appreciated!
Hi Lacey,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! You work a K1B into the purl row the same way you would K1B into a knit row! So you can K1B the same way whichever row you are on!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I just finished a blanket using this pattern and I love it! I did use a worsted weight yarn and played with my needle sized on a swatch until I figured out what made the pattern pop out. For me it was a size 9 needle. I did use a purl row after casting on.
I really appreciated your video showing the k1b. I think that many newer knitters would benefit from a video showing how to tink back if you mess up and realize it relatively soon after. It took me several attempts with my crochet hook to figure that one out and it looks/acts differently depending what row you are on.
Thanks for the beautiful pattern!
Hi Alisha,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! I am so glad to hear that you enjoyed this pattern and out tutorials. Thank you for sharing your tips and I will be sure to pass along to the rest of the team your interest in a tutorial on how to correct mistakes!
All the best,
Gianna
Hello, I love the look of this blanket but I have to admit that it’s not very forgiving if you make a mistake! I’ve ripped it out to start over more times than I care to admit, I now plan on running a safety line every few rows. My question is, do you knit into the previous row’s k1b, and k1b into the knit from the previous row on every row? Or does that change depending on what row you are on? Is there a row where you would k1b into the previous row’s k1b? I think this is where I’m getting thrown off. I am casting on an odd number as suggested, I’m also adding a set up purl row. Thanks in advance for your reply!
Hi Donna,
Thanks for reaching out! You will be knitting into the stitch below in every row, however it will be offset each row! For example, row 1 you will start by knitting 1 then going into the repeat *k1b, k1. Then for row 2 you will be knitting 2 before going into the *k1b, k1 repeat.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
This doesn’t seem to work between rows 4 and 5 because I slide the work rather than turn the work so the stitches aren’t offset. It only seems to work if I k1 on row 5 rather than k2. Does that make sense? Help!
Hi Stacy,
Thanks for reaching out. Rows 4 and 5 are indeed offset! On Row 4, you knit 1 stitch to begin, and then on Row 5, you knit the first 2 stitches. This means that you’re working the k1b’s on Row 5 into the normal knit stitches from Row 4. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I am using a thinner yarn then the one suggested. I just wanted to know what the multiple of the pattern is? Is it any odd number? I am using a size 15 needle. Getting about 5 stitches per 4 inches. Any help would be greatly appreciated! I love working the pattern!
Hi Christina,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you are on the right track! This pattern works over an odd multiple of stitches, and if you are getting 5 stitches per 4 inches (the pattern gets 4.75 per 4 inches) I think you are close enough and should be alright to follow the pattern as written.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I finished the gentle berry baby blanket. What is your recommendation for blocking.
Hi Miriam,
Thanks for writing in! For Gentle Giant, I recommend either spraying or steaming the blanket as opposed to soaking it, to block it and then laying it flat to dry! For more tips, I recommend checking out our lovely Blocking tutorial!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any other questions!
Gianna
I am concerned regarding the length of the 19 circular needle. 32 vs 40 I’m making the largest size. Will the 40inch be too long?
Hi Susan,
Thanks so much for your question. I think 40″ wouldn’t be too long and would work for this project! You’d also be more able to see how the blanket would look once off the needles since the stitches have more room to spread out.
I hope that helps! Have a great weekend!
All the best,
Cat
Thank you !
Hi there, I’ve read through the comments but haven’t found an answer to the problem I’ve been having. I’ve started over about five times already because my rows are not following the WS/RS cadence per the pattern. I’m comfortable with the k1b, am following the pattern as written (did not add a purl setup row), and I understand turning vs sliding but the sides are not matching up for me. Any clues? Thank you!
Hi Mariel,
Thanks for reaching out! The only thing I can think of that might be causing this mismatch between sides is if you’re not switching between the two yarns on the correct rows. If you’re still having trouble with this pattern, I’d recommend sending along photos to [email protected] so we can take a closer look at your work!
All the best,
Lili
This is so much fun to knit but the i-cord border is super hard! Two questions:
1. Do you have any tips on how to keep the edges neat in this pattern? I saw in an earlier comment that we are not supposed to carry the colors up the selvedge and just let them hang, but then I have big loops, or the sides are way too tight when I try to bring up the yarn. Not having neat edges makes the i-cord so difficult.
2. Do you have any suggestions for a 2 stitch i-cord video? All of the tutorials I found online were for 3 or 4 stitch (and all of them do the i-cords in different ways) so I was unsure how to proceed with the two stitch.
Thank you!
Hi Keri,
Thanks for reaching out. I can absolutely help answer your questions! Regarding the messy edges, it sounds like you’re running into some difficulties with tension. Because the next color yarn will be right there when it’s time to change colors, you don’t need to carry it up the selvedge, but you do need to maintain a consistent tension when you begin working with it again. Big loops result from a tension that’s too loose, and tight sides result from a tension that’s too loose.
In answer to your other question, I’m afraid I don’t know of a specific video! But I’m sure there are some good ones on YouTube. You can also follow our Attached I-Cord tutorial! While we show a 4-stitch i-cord in the photos, the instructions will work perfectly for any number of stitches. The first step is “Knit until there is 1 stitch remaining on the left needle. Slip this stitch as if to purl,” so if you’re doing a 2-stitch i-cord, you would knit only 1 stitch before the slipped stitch, rather than knitting 3 stitches for a 4-stitch i-cord.
If you’re still finding the attached i-cord border to be difficult, especially with the messy edges, you could try another border! I think that a crochet border would be perfect in this case, since it would be easy to hide the extra loops of yarn underneath. To make a crochet border, just work single crochets evenly along each edge, and work multiple single crochets into each corner of the blanket!
I hope my advice helps you finish up your project!
All the best,
Lili
I have read all the comments about the 1st row and k1b. The 1st row (Row 1) says to knit to the end…but none of the comments mention that. Isn’t that the set up row?? Could I knit a row, purl a row, knit a row and then start on Row 2? That way, I’m still on the wrong side when I start the 1st row of k1b…
Hi Stacy,
Thanks so much for reaching out to us! It looks like there may have been an update to row 1 of this pattern in the past, which is why there is some differing information in the comments. You are correct that for row 1 (right side) you should knit across the row, and on row 2 (wrong side) you will k1, *k1b, k1, repeat from * to the end of the row. Your cast on in this case will act as a wrong side row, setting you up for row 1 being on the right side!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly
Hi Stacy,
Thanks so much for reaching out to us! We recently made an update to row 1 of the Beautyberry Blanket, which is why there is some differing information in the comments. This change was made to the pattern so that you have an extra row to work with when knitting into the stitch below.
You are correct that on row 1 (right side) you should knit across the row, and on row 2 (wrong side) you will k1, *k1b, k1, repeat from * to the end of the row. Your cast on in this case will act as a wrong side row, setting you up for row 1 being on the right side!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly
Love this pattern and am almost finished knitting it as a blanket for my little girl due in May. 🙂 Question on the attached I-cord border — do you recommend a provisional cast-on and if so, how many stitches? Thanks!
Hi Cait,
Thank you for writing in and congratulations on your baby girl! We recommend using a provisional cast on for the 2 stitch i-cord border. I like to reference this quick tutorial each time I use this technique but if you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to reach out!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella