Easy Pullover for Babies, Toddlers and Kids
The Easy Baby Cardigan from Joelle’s More Last-Minute Kitted Gifts has become a Purl Soho classic… but it wasn’t the original! Before she knit up that worsted weight cardigan, Joelle first conceived of a lightweight, all-season pullover. At 7 stitches to the inch, it wasn’t exactly a “last minute knitted gift” and so it evolved; but Joelle never forgot the adorable prototype she had decided to shelve!
The inspiration behind both sweaters was always Joelle’s intrigue with an over-the-top construction. Starting at the bottom back, knitting up and over the shoulders and sleeves, then down the front, this sweater is a one-piece engineering wonder! The Easy Baby Pullover may not be as quick as its cardigan cousin, but it’s just as easy! And just as beautiful, with the gorgeous hand dyed subtlety of Koigu Premium Merino. Wonderfully soft, machine washable and as gorgeous as yarn comes, KPM is one of our all time favorites!
This timeless design is filled with design details that make it cozy for tots and easy for parents: a roomy neck opening for quick on and off, cuffs designed for rolling, and a loose, casual style for busy little bodies! A new classic? We think so!
P.S. Curious about the cute hat too? It’s our Little Fair Isle Hat and you can find out all about it right here!
Update: Additional Sizes
January 2014
When we added three new sizes to the Easy Pullover pattern, we thought we’d knit up a new version in a new color! This sweet peach of a color is Koigu Premium Merino #1111.5. You can see more pictures of this version here!
Update: New Yarns!
July 2017
Our Easy Pullover for Babies, Toddlers + Kids is such a classic, we rely on it over and over, like an old friend. This year we’ve knit it up in, not one, not two, but three different Purl Soho yarns, each one with its own unique beauty! For more information on these yarns and for additional pictures, be sure to visit our new post here!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoEasyPulloverForBabiesToddlersAndKids. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) skeins of Koigu’s Koigu Premium Merino (KPM), 100% merino. Each skein is 175 yards/ 50 grams; approximately 700–1750 yards required. The denim blue is color #1010.5 and the peach is color #1111.5.
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 32-inch circular needle
- 4 stitch markers
- Stitch holder or scrap yarn
Shop our wonderful collection of fingering-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
Gauge
28 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
12-24 months (2 years, 4 years, 6 years, 8 years, 10 years, 12 years)
- Chest Circumference: 20½ (23, 26, 30, 32½, 34½, 36½) inches
- Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 14 (16, 17, 19½, 20½, 22½, 24) inches
- Length from Cast-On to Underarm: 9 (10½, 11½, 13½, 14½, 16, 17) inches
- Armhole Depth: 5 (5½, 5½, 6, 6, 6½, 7) inches
- Sleeve Length from Underarm to Cuff, unfolded: 8¾ (11, 12¾, 15, 15½, 15½, 16¼) inches
Notes
This pullover is worked flat. It is worked in one piece from the bottom edge of the Back, over the shoulders and sleeves, then down to the bottom edge of the Front.
Seed Stitch: (multiple of 2 stitches + 1) All Rows: K1, *p1, k1, repeat from *.
Stockinette stitch: Knit on right-side rows and purl on wrong-side rows.
Errata
This pattern was updated on January 2, 2014 to include 3 additional sizes. The update also includes revisions to the original sizes, adjusting fit to better align with standard sizing. The original January 12, 2012 pattern is now only available on Ravelry as a free downloadable pattern (click here to go to Ravelry). And for the most up-to-date version, just read on right here!
Pattern
Back
Cast on 71 (81, 91, 105, 113, 121, 127) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Work in Seed Stitch for 1½ (1½, 1½, 1½, 2, 2, 2) inches, ending with a wrong-side row.
Next Row (right side): Work in Seed Stitch for 5 stitches, work in stockinette stitch to last 5 stitches, work inSeed Stitch to end.
Work as set by last row until piece measures 2½ (2½, 2½, 2½, 3, 3, 3) inches from cast-on edge, ending with a wrong-side row.
Change to all stockinette stitch. Work even until piece measures 9 (10½, 11½, 13½, 14½, 16, 17) inches from cast-on edge, ending with a wrong-side row.
Cast on for Sleeves
Row 1 (right side): With right side facing, use a Cable Cast-On to cast on 60 (74, 88, 102, 106, 106, 110) stitches. Work across cast-on stitches in Seed Stitch for 25 (29, 33, 37, 37, 37, 37) stitches, place a marker (pm), knit to end. [131 (155, 179, 207, 219, 227, 237) stitches]
Row 2: With wrong side facing, use a Cable Cast-On to cast on 60 (74, 88, 102, 106, 106, 110) stitches. Work across cast-on stitches in Seed Stitch for 25 (29, 33, 37, 37, 37, 37) stitches, pm, purl to next marker, work in Seed Stitch to end [191 (229, 267, 309, 325, 333, 347) stitches]
Row 3: Work in Seed Stitch to first marker, work in stockinette stitch to next marker, work in Seed Stitch to end.
Repeat Row 3 until piece measures 4½ (5, 5, 5½, 5¼, 5¾, 6¼) inches from beginning of Sleeve, ending with a wrong-side row.
Shape Back Neck
Row 1 (right side): Work in Seed Stitch to first marker, k51 (64, 76, 93, 99, 103, 110), pm, work in Seed Stitch over next 39 (43, 49, 49, 53, 53, 53) stitches, pm, knit to next marker, work in Seed Stitch to end.
Row 2: Work in Seed Stitch to first marker, work in stockinette stitch to next marker, work in Seed Stitch to following marker, work in stockinette stitch to last marker, work in Seed Stitch to end.
Repeat Row 2 until the back neck Seed Stitch measures ½ (½, ½, ½, ¾, ¾, ¾) inch, ending with a wrong-side row.
Next Row (right side): Work in pattern to second marker, work 5 stitches in Seed Stitch, bind off 29 (33, 39, 39, 43, 43, 43) stitches in pattern, work in pattern to end. [81 (98, 114, 135, 141, 145, 152) stitches remaining for each side]
Left Front
Now working only the Left Front and Sleeve stitches (leaving the remaining stitches on needle), work even in patterns as established for 1 (1, 1, 1¼, 1¼, 1½, 1½) inch(es), ending with a wrong-side row.
Shape Front Left Neck
Row 1 (right side): Work in pattern to first marker, slip marker (sm), knit into front and back of next stitch (kfb), work in patterns to end. [82 (99, 115, 136, 142, 146, 153) stitches]
Row 2: Work in patterns to 1 stitch before second marker, kfb, sm, work in pattern to end. [83 (100, 116, 137, 143, 147, 154 stitches]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 six (seven, eight, eight, nine, nine, nine) more times, working increased stitches in stockinette stitch. [95 (114, 132, 153, 161, 165, 172) stitches]
SIZES – ( – , 4 YEARS 6 YEARS, 8 YEARS, 10 YEARS, 12 YEARS) ONLY
Work Row 1 again. [- (-, 133 154, 162, 166, 173) stitches]
ALL SIZES
Work even until piece measures 10 (11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14) inches from beginning of Sleeve, ending with a right- side row.
Left Sleeve
Next Row (wrong side): Bind off 60 (74, 88, 102, 106, 106, 110) stitches in pattern (removing marker), work in patterns to end. [35 (40, 45, 52, 56, 60, 63) stitches remain]
Cut yarn and place stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn.
Right Front
With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to stitches on needle. Work even in patterns as established for 1 (1, 1, 1¼, 1¼, 1½, 1½) inch(es), ending with a wrong-side row.
Shape Front Right Neck
Row 1 (right side): Work in patterns to 1 stitch before second marker, kfb, work in pattern to end. [82 (99, 115, 136, 142, 146, 153) stitches]
Row 2: Work in pattern to first marker, sm, kfb, sm, work in patterns to end. [83 (100, 116, 137, 143, 147, 154) stitches]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 six (seven, eight, eight, nine, nine, nine) more times, working increased stitches in stockinette stitch. [95 (114, 132, 153, 161, 165, 172) stitches]
SIZES – ( – , 4 YEARS 6 YEARS, 8 YEARS, 10 YEARS, 12 YEARS) ONLY
Work Row 1 again. [- , ( – , 133 (154, 162, 166, 173) stitches]
ALL SIZES
Work even until piece measures 10 (11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14) inches from beginning of Sleeve, ending with a wrong-side row.
Right Sleeve
Row 1 (right side): Bind off 60 (74, 88, 102, 106, 106, 110) stitches in pattern (removing marker), work in patterns to end, Cable Cast-On 1 stitch for center neck, work this stitch in Seed Stitch, then work the 35 (40, 44, 52, 56, 60, 63) stitches of Left Side in patterns as established. [71 (81, 91, 105, 113, 121, 127) stitches]
Front
Row 1 (wrong side): Work in stockinette stitch to first marker, work in Seed Stitch to next marker, work in stockinette stitch to end.
Work as set by last row for 3/4 inch total, ending with a wrong-side row.
Next Row (right side): Work entire row in stockinette stitch, removing markers.
Work even until Front measures 6½ (8, 9, 11, 11½, 13, 14) inches from end of Sleeve, or until Front is same length as Back to beginning of Seed Stitch trim above side slit, ending with a wrong-side row.
Next Row (right side): Work in Seed Stitch for 5 stitches, work in stockinette stitch to last 5 stitches, work in Seed Stitch to end.
Work as set by last row for 1 inch total.
Next Row: Work entire row in Seed Stitch.
Repeat last row for 1½ (1½, 1½, 1½, 2, 2, 2) inches total, ending with a wrong-side row.
Bind off in Seed Stitch.
Finish
Block if desired. Using mattress stitch, sew side seams, starting above the Seed Stitch edging, and leaving 2½ (2½, 2½, 2½, 3, 3, 3) inches unsewn for side slits. Also sew the Sleeve seams.
Weave in your ends and block as desired.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I would love to be able to make this for my girls who are 7 and 10! Any way to adjust the pattern to bigger sizes? Thanks – Karen
Hi Karen-
We have no plans to make a larger size of this pattern at this moment but we will keep it under advisement as we move forward.
Thank you for your comment!
Molly
I too would love a larger size pattern. My son would be bigger than that by the time I could finish. (I'm a new knitter). Also is there a pattern for the hat b/c its adorable. And one final thing… I love your site!!! so many patterns I love and want to try.
thanks,
Amy
Love it!! I bought 4 skeins of Koigu at the grand opening party for the new store and just frogged the shawl I was halfway through with it. This sweater will be perfect for it and really takes the disappointment out of my shawl not working out.
I'm also interested in this pattern sized for children. My girls are 3 and 5, and this lightweight pullover would be perfect for our weather here in Paris.
Merci Beaucoup,
Susan
I too would love this pattern to be released in a bigger size (age 7 and/or up).
It looks lovely! I can't wait to try knitting this 🙂
Just chiming in that I would love to see the pattern in larger sizes too!
Beautiful sweater – I love that the pattern could go either way gender-wise and plan on knitting one up for the little one we are expecting this spring. Thank you so much!
I, too, would love this in larger sizes, or tips on how to figure it out myself.
I'd love the pattern in a bigger size, but not because I have older children… I want it for me! It's so boho lovely!
Oh yes Danielle, I agree with you.
I dream about this pullover for me !
Please work on bigger sizes. It is a great sweater and would really suit the older kids too!
This is lovely! I am adapting it for a 3 year old (trying to!). Doing the numbers can be a bit dizzying, but can you confirm that the front ends up having 4 stitches fewer than the back? (71-67=4)
I'm working on this one for my very small 27 month old boy. I'm customizing to fit his proportions and it has become clear to me how easy it is to make a bigger size as long as you are thoughtful along the way understanding your gauge the the dimensions of the person who will be wearing it.
Because he is so slim, I cast on 67 stitches but knitting up to the start of the sleeve I went up to 7.5″ because he's a bit longer than the sweater pattern is made for. I want the sweater to last a while so will make the sleeves long enough to fold up at first and then unfold as his arms get longer.
Anyhow, the point is that you can adjust most patterns to meet your needs.
Soledad! Oh my goodness, you are completely right! The front and back differ by 4. I'll let you in on a secret… we are planning to repost this pattern with additional sizes on the February 19th. The date is tentative, but if all goes well, keep your eye out! We will be sure to re-work the pattern before then! Thank you so much for writing in, Laura.
Thanks for the news, and for the clarification…. and for the new pattern. I have to check it out, and will probably undo the front of the sweater 🙂
If you want to check out what it looks like now, it's here: http://www.ravelry.com/projects/solitaet/easy-baby-pullover/photos
I'm definitely going to queue this. thank you for a lovely pattern
Yes, I definitely would love to make one for me! What a great year round pullover. Thank you so much for sharing this pattern…going to make it for my grandson who is 5.
Any chance you can make the pattern into an adult size? I absolutely love this sweater but too small for me!
I too am casting my vote for adult sizes and for older children-size 12 and up. I have three girls 10, 15 and 19 and they would all look fantastic in this-easy to wear for the 10 year old and totally retro cool for the other two! Boy, would this be a solution to a bunch of birthday/holiday presents…and I want one too!
I love your patterns and have made many-thank you so much for your creative fun designs!
Hi K and Wendy-
We are planning making adult sizes in this pattern. However it does take some time so we don't have an ETA just yet.
Thank you both for the nice comments!
Molly
HI. I am a new knitter and this would be my first attempt at a “non-scarf”! Do I stitch the seams before or after I block the sweater? it would be my first time blocking too!
Thanks and I adore your site!
Wendy
Hi Wendy,
Congrats on making your first non-scarf! Typically you block and then seam. Hope you enjoy this project!! -Laura
Hi thanks for posting this lovely pattern – it was my first go at knitting from the back over to the front and I will definitely try it again. I will also do this pattern again! I made my life pretty difficult because I added stripes and then decided that they wouldn't look good if they went all the way to the edges of the sleeves or neckline. I am extremely happy with the way it turned out though. You can see it on my Ravelry page: http://www.ravelry.com/projects/iridescent/easy-pullover-for-babies-toddlers-and-kids
I am a new knitter and saw that u mentioned that u were going to re-work a new pattern because of the 4 stitch difference. Is this the new one? And also in the pattern it says to seed stitch for 1 1/4 inches and it looks like more than that on the picture.
Hi Christina-
Yes, this is the corrected pattern and all the measurements seed stitch instructions are correct.
Thank you for your question!
Molly
My collar looks different than it does in your picture. I looked online on Ravelry and found other people who have completed this sweater. Their collars look similar to mine too. The part in the front where the seed stitchs go into a V shape. Yours has more length from the neck to the bottom of the V. Hard to describe, but if you compare the pictures on Ravelry and yours it is pretty different. Kind of frustrating.
Amy, Thanks for writing in! I am so sorry this has been frustrating. I looked on Ravelry. You are right, there is a difference in the collars. The pattern for this sweater was written just recently, but it was knit a while back. The sweater was a prototype for another pattern and we just brought it back out of the archives. I am sorry for the discrepancy. The neck can be easily lengthened. You can increase every other row rather than every row. Just be sure to account for the extra distance you are creating here and compensate for it in the body of the sweater. Hope this helps. -Laura
Thanks Laura, I thought I might have been crazy!
As far as increasing every other row, which part in the pattern are you talking about? Under “Shape Front Right/Left Neck”?
Hi Amy, sorry for my lack of clarity! I was referring to Shape Front Right/Left Neck! -Laura
Hi there. I am knitting this in the smallest size at the moment and really enjoying the lovely pattern and over-the-top construction.
I am just at the end of the 'Finish Right Sleeve' instruction, and I am a bit confused about when to join the stitches from the two sleeves into a single row for the front section. Is this immediately after the 1 stitch cast-on in the middle of the 'Finish Right Sleeve' row? If so, looking at what I have, I am concerned that the neck opening will be too small to fit over the child's head.
To create the neckline shown in the picture, I wonder if I should be stitching a few extra rows separately on to each sleeve after the bind-offs, and then joining these two sections into one row to finish the rest of the front. Hard to explain! I'd appreciate any advice you can give.
Hi Suzy,
Under 'Finish Right Sleeve' it tells you to cable cast on, after this you will continue working across the stitches from the Left side. The head opening worked out for our sweater. But if you are concerned with the neck opening, feel free to knit a few extra rows separately on to the Front Right and Front Left after the bind-offs but before working across entire row. It is not how we made our sweater though so I cannot tell you exactly how this will look. Hope this helps. Luck with the sweater. –Laura
Thanks Laura for your quick and clear reply! I'll give it a try adding the extra rows after the bind-offs and repost to let you know how it goes.
HI I am at the part of pattern where I shape back neck:that is done then repeat for a total of 3/4 inch
my question is where it says work in pattern to second marker , work 5 stitches in pattern,( then bind of 29 stitches in pattern) , work in patteren to end I am not sure of where I am binding of the 29 stitches? Where am I at this juncture is this around the neck…any help would be appreciated!!!
thanks Lorraine
Hello Lorraine,
Those 29 stitches are bound off for the back of the collar or neckline. They are the center 29 stitches.
Please let us know if you have any additional questions.
Laura
Hmmm so far this pattern has been great, but I'm stuck in the same spot as Lorraine. For a differen reason though. I am making the smallest size and as I'm working on the two separate sleeves there are four stitches of seed stitching on the left side and five on the right. I'm not sure how this is happening. Can this be right? I bound off the 29 stitches and there are 81 stitches on both sides left. I'm baffled. Please help if you can 🙂
Hi Ajaire,
Oh dear, I am not totally sure what has happened. My initial guess is that you bound off one too many, but if the stitch count is correct, I am not totally sure where things went awry. I am sorry to not be of more help? Are you local? Can you stop by the shop? Or do you have a local yarn store that might be able to take a look with fresh eyes?
Laura
Thanks for your reply. As long as I know that their isn't supposed to be 4 stitches I can figure out what happened. I though I was going crazy. Seed stitch doesn't even work well with 4 stitches hehe.
Thanks again!
I am converting the pattern and would like to know the rows per inch. Thank You!
Hi Rachel-
There are 10.5 rows per inch.
Thanks so much for writing in and please let us know if you have any more questions!
Molly
Hi, i love the pattern, i am really enjoying knitting it. I was just wondering if the increas
e was always kfb on both sides or purl increase on the purl side. Thanks a lot.
Hi Klara,
Yes, I used a kfb increase on both the right and wrong sides. You can definitely do a pfb on the wrong side though. Hope this helps.
Laura
hello! in Italy we are not yet used to circular needles. is it possible to use straight needles? thank you very much!
maria
Hi Maria-
Yes, you could use very long straight needles for this project!
Thank you for your question!
Molly
Have just come across your wonderful pattern have read all the comments and was wondering if you have made this patter to fit a 10 &12 year old yet it is exactly what i have been looking for. Hope to hear from you
regards Ruth
Hi Ruth-
Unfortunately we don't have this pattern in any larger sizes but thank you so much for your interest and for writing in!
Molly
really enjoying making the sweater up til this point but just got to the section “finish right sleeve” and got super confused. My understanding of the instructions here make it seem like after I did the 1 cable stitch I would be joining the bottom part of the front right neck to the shoulder part of the top left neck. So discombobulated! what am I missing?
Hi Dawn,
Thanks for writing in with your questions. It's good to know if portions of the patterns are hard to understand.
After that cable cast on you work the cco stitch(es) in seed stitch, then across the Left Side stitches. The Front Left Side should have been already worked similarly to the Right Side at this point (having worked the Left Sleeve, the Left Neck, etc).
Is there a chance you are confusing the sweater's Left and Right with your Left and Right?
Please let me know if I can help in any way.
Thanks.
Laura
Hello. I'm working on this sweater, and I was just wondering:
On the beginning of the back of the sweater, when it says to work five stitches in seed stitch, then work in stockinette stitch, then finish the last five stitches in seed stitch, how exactly do you work stockinette stitch in one row? Should I seed stitch the first five, knit, then seed stitch the last five for that first row following the 1 and 1/4 row of seed stitch? Then on the second row, should I purl instead of knit? Sorry, I'm just very confused.
Hi Anonymous,
Yes, you are correct. On the right side you will knit the stockinette portion and on the wrong side you will purl the stockinette portion. Just like you thought, that is exactly right.
Thanks for writing in. Please let us know if you have any other questions.
Laura
Hello their,
I found this pattern on revelry day. My husband saw it and he wants one exactly the same. Please could you let me know if you have one for men and where i could find it please.
Many Thanks
Ashleigh
Hi Ashleigh-
We don't have a version of this pattern for men. We actually don't have any sweater patterns for men on The Purl Bee but hopefully we will in the near future. You might want to look through the Mens sweater patterns we sell on our website here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/5-knitting-crochet-patterns?filters%5B%5D=978&filters%5B%5D=975
The "Brooklyn Tweed Guston Pullover" seems like it might have a similar feeling?
Thank you for your question!
Molly
I LOVE this sweater, but want to knit it for my own little bundle due in January (maybe a 'coming home from hospital sweater'). Any suggestions for making this a 0-3 month size?
Hi Michelle.
Unfortunately we do not have the resources at this time to re-size this pattern for you. What I can suggest is changing the gauge. This will adjust the circumference of the sweater without having to do any math. The vertical elements of the sweater (how far to knit to the underarms and for the sleeves, etc) will have to be adjusted. For these adjustments I would use a sweater you already own as a guide.
As for adjusting the gauge. If you follow the smallest size pattern at a gauge of 7 3/4 stitches to the inch, you will end up with an 18 1/4 inch circumference chest.
For yarns to accomplish a 7 3/4-inch gauge, please click here:
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/3-knitting-crochet-yarn?filters%5B%5D=3
Anzula's Squishy would be my top choice!
Hope this helps.
Laura
This is the perfect weight pullover for my granddaughters who live in Arizona as their winters are so mild. Hopefully, if I make it a little longer, they will get more than one year of wear from it.
First of all I must say that you have so much beautiful knits on your page. I get so inspired! I am a norwegian who has my own knittingblog. Right now i am knitting this super cool sweater to my child to be. I had some challenges translating the american knittinglanguage to understandable norwegian:) My question is; When I have finished the sweater I am going to put it out in my knittingblog. Will I have your permission to publish your reciepe for this sweater in norwegian, or will you prefer that I rather put a link toward your webpage?
Anyway, you have so many goreous items I would like to knit for the future- so thank you so much for this super webpage:)
Sincerely Cathrine Lund, Harstad, Norway
I'm midway through this awesome sweater and want to make the version with the longer neck . In the comments above you said that you can make the neck longer by increasing every other row instead of every row. So does that mean that in the "Shape Front Left/Right Neck" section would repeat the increase in Row 1, but always have the following (WS) row in pattern? Also, would the increase always be on the stitch after the first marker (stitch 6 on RS)?
Thanks!
Kira
Hi Kira,
The neck can be easily lengthened. You can increase every other row rather than every row. Just be sure to account for the extra distance you are creating here and compensate for it in the body of the sweater.
SHAPE FRONT LEFT NECK
Row 1 (RS): Work in pattern to first marker, slip marker (sm), knit into front and back of next stitch (kfb), work in pattern to end. (1 stitch increased)
Row 2: Work in pattern.
SHAPE FRONT RIGHT NECK
Row 1 (RS): Work in pattern to 1 stitch before second marker, kfb, work in pattern to end. (1 stitch increased)
Row 2: Work in pattern.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
-Laura
Hello! I am only a novice knitter – this is only the third item I have knitted – but I love this jumper so much! I am knitting it as per your revised instructions above for shape front left neck, but am wondering if I repeat the two rows 8 more times (I'm making the 4 yr old version) or 16 times, because I am not increasing on every row. I have repeated it 8 more times and have not reached the 132 stitches. If it is 16 times more, this would take me well over the 11inch mark from the start of the sleeve. If it is only the 8 times, do i still bind off the same number of stitches?
Finally, I am not yet knowledgeable enough to "compensate for the extra distance in the body of the sweater". What do I need to do here?
Apologies for all the questions – I am sure these are self-evident to a more experienced knitted!
Hi Tara.
No need for apologies! We're happy to help. Thanks for writing in.
If you are working the revised version above, you will have to repeat 16 times in order to get to 132 stitches because you are increasing every other row rather than every row.
And yes, that makes sense that doing this took you past the 11 inches from the start of the sleeve which means you'll have to follow the following portions of the pattern (FINISH RIGHT SLEEVE and FINISH LEFT SLEEVE) simultaneously while shaping the neck. I have to admit, it' is kind of a tough modification for a novice knitter. Unfortunately we don't have the resources to re-work the pattern for you at this time.
You want to be sure you are working along with the correct stitch count, so once you are at 132 (however you choose to do it, increasing every row or every other row) you will bind off as instructed above.
As for compensating for the distance in the body of the sweater… essentially you just want the front body to be the same dimensions as the back body, so if your neck shaping goes past the underarms or sleeves into the body, be sure to compensate for that when working even.
I do hope this helps.
Please write in again if you have more questions.
Laura
Was wondering if this would work in stripes? I would love to do multiple colors or maybe an ombre and just change colors when the skein runs out for a mis-matched sock look? Either way – I love this pattern!
You guys on the Purl Bee are so amazing. All your patterns are beautiful! I am always looking forward to going on your page every day and seeing any new projects it patterns! This is also a beautiful sweater! I am a knitter, sewer, and I crochet! Never stop doing what your doing because it is amazing! Just wanted to give you guys a thumbs up and wish u a happy and crafty new year!!!!!!!
Hi Adrienne-
Sure! This would look great in stripes!
Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
Thank you for including the pattern for this adorable top!
I've just re-entered the knitting circle after almost 3 decades of absence and this jumper looks just the thing to start with.
Would you have any suggestions for a different yarn? Although I love the Koigu yarn and colour choices I am knitting this for my 1 year old great-niece and am thinking it might be better to make it in a washable yarn. Is there anything that would come close to the same feel and have good colour options, as well? Thank you so much!
HI Lynn-
We actually do wash Koigu in the machine, on a gentle cycle and dry it with great results!
You could also use Anzula Squishy, which is also washable: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/7124-Anzula-Squishy
Thank you!
Molly
Thanks for the extended sizes, I had never knitted before and this was the first pattern I decided to do for my second son! It turned out really nicely and so I'm happy I can now make it for his big brother due to the larger sizes.
Thank you again for all your help back in early December. I finished the jumper and it looks absolutely gorgeous!
I'd kill for an adult size in this style…… 🙂
And I can't wait to try some more of your patterns.
Tara
Would it look ok to substitute garter stitch for stockinette? I don't like doing the all purl rows and would prefer to mostly knit…
I am about halfway through this pattern and really enjoying it. This is the most complicated project I've ever attempted, and the pattern is so clearly written that its been fun so far. One question: after I bind off the first (left) sleeve, do I HAVE to transfer the left front stiches onto scrap yarn? Could I just leave them on the needle, the way you leave the right stitches in the needle when you knit the left side? Or does it just get too cumbersome with the long sleeve in this case? Asking mostly out of curiosity. Thanks!
Hi Jehane,
That'd be interesting. I think if you were to do the stockinette potions in garter, you might want to do the whole thing in garter due to the typical difference in row between seed stitch and garter stitch. I would perhaps make a swatch working garter next to seed stitch and see how the fabric lies.
All that said… I LOVE garter stitch and I think this piece would be quite handsome with that ridge texture.
Let us know how it goes!
Laura
Hi Emily P,
If leaving those stitches on the needle doesn't bother you, leave them on there! It might get a little cumbersome by the time you finish the right side, but there is no reason you HAVE to put the stitches on a hold.
Laura
Any plans to make this in a 0 to 3 month size?
Hi Shannon-
We don't have plans to make this in smaller sizes. But the original patter that this was inspired by, the Easy Baby Cardigan in Joelle's book "More Last Minute Knitted Gifts" comes in a 0-3 size so that might be a nice alternative.
Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
Hi there,
Thanks for this pattern and all the other great stuff on this site. I love your site (and your store!)
I am a beginning knitter and am nearly done with this sweater but I have run into an issue. I just joined the two front sides and finished the 3/4 inch seed stitch section at the bottom of the neck. I measured the width of the front to make sure it's even with the back of the sweater, and for some reason, the front of my sweater is about an inch wider than the back of the sweater, even though my stitch count is correct.
Any suggestions on what I should do about this? Maybe it doesn't matter too much? Or should I drop some stitches, and if so, where should I do the decreasing? I wanted to ask before I knit too many more rows down the front…
Thank you so much in advance for your help!
Marianne
Hello Marianne.
My fist thought is that perhaps your tension changed resulting in a different gauge. This happens, to a lot of us! I have a question. Is your gauge correct on the BACK or on the FRONT?
If it is correct on the FRONT, that means your BACK is probably a little narrow. In order to keep the whole garment from being too tight, I would leave the FRONT alone and carry on with the pattern.
If your gauge is correct on the BACK, that means your FRONT is too wide. In which case, yes, you can do some decreasing. You'll want to figure out how many stitches you'd like to eliminate in order to get the same width as you have across the BACK. Measure the BACK. Multiple that measurement by the gauge you are getting in the front (let's call this number Y). Take the number of stitches you currently have and from that number subtract that number Y. This is how many stitches you'll want to eliminate.
I would decrease one on each side every other or every third row until you've eliminated as many stitches as you desire.
I do hope this is clear and helps. Please write us back with any questions!
Laura
Love this sweater. I am not clear on the Sleeve instruction. If I cast on row 1 then how do I work across the cast on stitches? Will I do it on the wrong side since my working yarn will be at the end?
Hi Jodi.
To cast on for the sleeve… With the right side facing you, you'll use the working yarn which is coming from the first stitch and you will use a cable cast on technique to cast on the instructed number of stitches (here is a link to our cable cast on tutorial https://www.purlsoho.com/create/knitting-tutorials-cast-ons/2008/7/7/cable-cast-on.html). Once you have completed the cable casted on, the right side will still be facing you and the working yarn will be coming from the stitch you've just cast on which is now the first stitch of the row. Work across those newly casted on stitches and the to the end of the row as instructed (seed stitch first and then knitting to the end). Next you'll do the same thing for the other sleeve, but this time with the wrong side facing and once you've worked in seed stitch, you'll purl and then finish the row in seed stitch.
Jodi, does this help? Please let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
I truly love this sweater.. so simple and sweet. But I would also love to knit the Fair Isle hat however the link to Whit's Little Fair Isle isn't working. Can you please help? Thanks billions!!
Hi Kristin-
The link is fixed now! https://www.purlsoho.com/create/the-purl-bee/2012/1/12/easy-pullover-for-babies-toddlers-and-kids.html
Thanks for pointing that out!
Best-
Molly
Does anyone ever make a picture tutorial for those who do not have a clue as to how to knit clothing? we live in an area where there are no knitting shops and it is sometimes very difficult to figure it out in a book.
I too would like an adult version of this sweater– perfect sleeves and neckline for adult also. thanks marywallis
Hi Linda-
We have photo and video tutorials for many of the techniques needed here. You might want to check out our terms and tutorials page here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/knitting-terms-tutorials/
Our You Tube page also contains some great info: https://www.youtube.com/user/PurlSoho
Additionally, if you have any specific questions about this project we'd be happy to answer them here in the comments section.
Thanks and good luck!
Molly
Hi Marywallis-
We don't have plans to make this in an adult size at the moment. You might try looking on Ravelry for a "tunic" style sweater.
Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
Bonjour
Est il possible d’avoir les explications pour la taille 6 mois?, Merci
Hi Irene-
We don’t have plans to make this in a smaller size at the moment but thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
I am knitting this sweater for my grandson. I am right at the point where you begin the sleeves. I am having trouble visualizing what I am doing. I ended, as it said, and then cast on stitches, adding to the stitches that were already on the needle. Is that right? I can’t see on the photos what part of the sleeve this is. I’m wondering if I was supposed to have put the stitches on a stitch holder and then started the sleeves as separate pieces.
Thanks, Rosie
Hi Rose Ann-
Thanks for getting in touch about this, you should leave stitches on the needle and use a separate needle for the sleeve.
Best-
Molly
Hello,
Beautiful pattern, I must say but I am having the same problem as above. How do I start the sleeves? Your answer to the above question is still not clear to me 🙁 could you please explain some more?
Hi Molly,
Beautiful pattern. I am having the same problem, how do i begin the sleeves? I still dont understand 🙁
Hi Aisha-
I’d be happy to try to help, What part of the sleeve instructions don’t you understand?
Best-
Molly
Hi Molly,
Thank you but I somehow managed to get it right.
Now I am on the increase portion of the left side. From what I understand, the increases are only happening on the side of the neckline, right?
Aisha
Hi Aisha-
Yes that’s correct.
Let us know if you have any more question!
Molly
This is such a beautiful pattern. I have some wonderful yarn that knits up with a gauge of 3.5 stitches to the inch. Would I be able to half all of the directions and measure length often in order to make the sweater with the thicker yarn or is there another way of going about it?
Any advice would be helpful. Thank you.
Hi Kelli-
Unfortunately converting a pattern like this that needs to fit a body isn’t as simple as dividing all the directions in half. 3 1/2 stitches per inch is quite a lot chunkier than this original yarn so in this case we wouldn’t recommend trying to use this pattern. We don’t have any kids patterns here on the Purl Bee that come in that chunky of a gauge but you might have some lucky if you search “chunky weight, kids sweater pattern” on Ravelry.
Thanks so much!
Molly
Hi there, very keen to try this pattern – question (and I’m sorry if its obvious somewhere and Ive missed it!) can I do this on straight needles? Me and circular aren’t very good friends yet 🙂 Thanks 🙂
Hi Jen-
Yes, you can make this on straight needles, just make sure to get long ones! (I’d use ones that are at least 14-inches long.) But, just FYI, while this pattern calls for circular needles it is not knit in the round- you just go back and forth like you would on straight needles, switching the needles in your hands at the end of each row, so there isn’t any special skill involved! We just recommend the circular needles because they are less bulky and hold the width of the sweater better.
Hope this helps, and good luck with the pattern!
Best-
Molly
I made this in the smallest size for a baby. It was my first attempt at a sweater and I’m so pleased with the results. Thanks for posting this awesome pattern. I also wanted to throw in another vote to develop this in adult sizes, as my husband fell in love with the pattern and is begging for one that he could wear! Thank you!
Thank you for this lovely pattern! I am stuck on one part of it and am wondering if you might be able to help me. I am at the part where I need to rejoin the yarn to the stitches on the needle in order to finish the right front. When I went to do this, there was no tail to do so. The tail I cut was on the left front sleeve. There is no tail on the right front. Where do I go from here? Did I make a mistake?
Everything looks beautiful right now and I fear having to rip everything out. Please help!
Hi Kayla!
You’ll join a new ball entirely to the right front. You don’t need a tail already attached to do so. Just join new yarn to the stitches on hold, and start knitting!
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
Can you help me convert this to a bigger weight yarn in order to decrease the number of stitches per inch and allow it to be knit more quickly?
Thanks,
Cherrie
Hi Cherrie-
I’m so sorry but we don’t have this particular pattern available for thicker yarn and unfortunately it’s not a simple conversion. We would recommend that you check out some of our other kids sweater patterns to see if something else catches your eye.
Here is a link to all of our babies and kids sweater patterns: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/category/knit/projects-knit/garments-projects-knit/babies-kids-garments-projects-knit/
In particular the Purl Soho Pullover in Alpaca Pure might be a good option: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2014/03/09/the-purl-soho-pullover-in-alpaca-pure/
As would the Friendly Fair Isle Sweater for Toddlers and Kids: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2015/01/02/friendly-fair-isle-sweater-now-sized-for-toddlers-kids-too/
Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
I love this sweater! All I have left to do is seam the sleeve cuff. Any tutorials for seaming the seed stitch portion of the cuff?
Hi Michelle,
We seamed the entire sleeve with the mattress stitch method.
Our tutorial is here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/09/27/mattress-stitch/
Happy Knitting!
Sophia
I have enjoyed creating this sweater. I am on my third one for my grandsons, the first ones I followed the pattern the sleeves ended up really long so I took 20 stitches off the sleeve, hope to know soon if it is good or too much. I have the material to create a grey one for him for his birthday that is coming right up. I would love one of these for myself. They look like they would fit comfortably and I am going to try and create one for myself.
I do like the way it fits the boys. They have matching sweaters that their grandmother made for them and are able to wrap in her love and warmth.
Hello! I had a quick question. I’m at the point in the pattern titled “Left Front”.
Where it instructs “Now working only the Left Front and Sleeve stitches …”, does this mean to work the Left Front and only the Left Sleeve, or the Left Front and *both* Sleeves? If it means only the Left sleeve, when in the pattern do I add bulk to the Right Sleeve?
Thank you so much for your help!
Hey Stephanie,
Thank you for the comment! You will be working the Left Front and Left Sleeve together. You want to work each sleeve and front shoulder sections separately so that you can create the neck opening.
I hope that clarifies things for you and feel free to write us back if you have anymore questions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
Row 2: Work in patterns to 1 stitch before second marker, kfb, work in pattern to end. [83 (100, 116, 137, 143, 147, 154 stitches] –
This is a WS row and therefore purled; kfb ? should that be purl in back and front ?
Hi Beata,
Thank you for the comment! It is not necessary to do a purl front/back since it as at place where the seed stitch neckline changes to stockinette stitch, so doing a knit should not be noticeable. That being said in these instances I often like to try out both options and decide which one I think looks better so it’s definitely worth a shot! I hope this helps clarify and feel free to write back if you have anymore questions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
This pattern is gorgeous, but it is described as “Easy” and I wonder…easy for whom? I am a beginning knitter and cannot fathom how to knit this “one piece” sweater. Do you have tutorials for every step of this pattern? Knitting is very discouraging for me, but I want very much to learn. Any advice?
Hello Lily!
We admire your perseverance in learning this new craft! This pattern is knit in a sort of “t” formation with a hole in the center for the head. Then you fold it in half and seam under the arms and along the sides. I usually have to draw these things out for myself to have a visual aide! The most advance parts of this pattern would be the increasing and decreasing to shape around the neck. Is there a specific part you are having trouble with? Feel free to write again with any other questions. Thanks for your comment! -Alyson
I’m still hoping for an adult sized version, is there any chance of that yet? Thanks!
Hello Marlys!
Thanks for your request! We will keep it in mind! Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
I am confused about starting the sleeve. In a previous post you said that after the cast on to leave them on the needle and use another one to do the sleeve. What does that mean? Do you mean use a stitch holder for the body and then work the sleeve?
Hi Kim,
Thanks for your interest in this pattern! The sleeve portion starts with a cable cast on (this all takes place on the left-hand needle) and then you knit into these stitches in pattern. After you knit all of your cable cast on stitches, you will knit across the body and then turn your work. After you turn your work, you will cable cast on again for the next sleeve. This pattern can seem confusing but essentially you are making a big “plus” sign and then sewing the underarm and side seams. I hope this helps you to visualize the pattern! Once again, thank you for writing in!
Best,
Adam
Love this pattern- it’s helping to pass the time with baby #3. One question, while knitting the sleeves, should you measure the seed stitch or stockinet the stitch. The seed stitch is about 1/2″ shorter on mine. Thanks!!
Hi Nell,
Thanks for writing us! If you are trying to measure the sleeve you should include the seed stitch and stockinette in the measurement. I hope I’ve answered your question. Let us know!
Best,
Adam
I made this sweater in size 4. Ordered my yarn from you and just followed the pattern to the letter, not giving much thought to the sleeve length. The directions were very clear and I blocked the sweater before seaming. The sleeves are way too long. Too late to do anything about that now. Who came up with the sleeve length? Even rolling up the cuff will not shorten the sleeves enough. Could there be a mistake in number of stitches?
Hello Kaye,
I’m so sorry the sleeves came out too long! If your sweater’s arm length is 12 3/4″, then you have hit gauge and made the sleeve to spec. The sleeves on this sweater are meant to be rolled up and if that is not staying, I suggest adding a button up the forearm and an i-cord loop at the sleeve edge to secure the cuff in place. Let us know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
Any chance this pattern was adapted for adult sizes? I thought it had at one time, but I can’t seem to find it. Thanks in advance.
Sara
Hi Sara,
Thanks for your interest in this pattern! This pattern has never been adapted for adults, but I’m sure there are similar patterns on Ravelry that you could refer to. Thanks for writing in!
Happy knitting!
Adam
I for one would love to have this pattern graded for adult sizes. I’d be happy to pay for it. I haven’t found anything on Ravelry that comes close. I’ve made this for my baby grandson and I’m now knitting it again for another baby in the family. It’s a fabulous sweater.
Hi Paula,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, we don’t currently have the resources to re-write this pattern for adult sizes but thank you so much for expressing your interest! I will be sure to pass this along to the design team!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi there, my daughter loves this pattern and I’d like to knit it for her impending new baby 🙂 Is there a size for newborn or 3-6 months? Otherwise could I successfully scale it down, do you think?
Thanks
Hi Chrissie,
Thank you for your question! Unfortunately, the smallest size for this sweater is 12-24 months. We appreciate your request for a smaller size but at the moment we do not have the resources to size it down but will pass on your request to our designers.
Perhaps the Little Baby Sweater would work better or you could knit this sweater for winter after the baby is born. I know that new mom’s love to have some items that will work for a little further on than the first year!
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
-Cassy
I’m enjoying knitting this for my expected grandchild. The yarn is beautiful and soft, and I know he or she will love wearing this garment! I’m a relatively new knitter and am a bit stumped by part of the instructions in the Shape Back Neck section:
Next Row (right side): Work in pattern to second marker, work 5 stitches in Seed Stitch…..
Work in pattern means what, here? Just continuing in stockinette stitch?
Hello Paula,
I’m so happy you’re loving this pattern! It’s going to be a great gift! When you “knit in pattern” you are essentially doing seed stitch for the seed stitch portions and stockinette for the stockinette portions. Basically, it means to knit the different stitch variations as they come in the row. Let me know if you have any other questions! Best of luck!
-Adam
OK, Adam, that’s what I thought but wanted to make sure. I appreciate the help!
I would second (fifth?) the motion to have this pattern reworked for adult sizes. And perhaps a chunk/bulky yarn weight?
Hi Paula,
Thanks for the suggestion! We’ll keep it in mind for future projects! Stay tuned!
Best,
Adam
Hi, I clicked the link for Cable Cast On referenced in this pattern and it appears to be a broken link. I also used your search bar and came up short. Can you update the link for that tutorial? Many thanks 🙂
Hi Susan,
Thank you so much for letting us know! I have fixed the link in the pattern and am including the link here for your convenience (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/07/07/cable-cast-on/). We really appreciate the heads up!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
In shaping the neck, row one says to kfb, and row 2 also says kfb. Just making sure row 2 isn’t supposed to be pfb since that’s the purl row?
Hi Paula,
Thank you for writing in! The increases at the neckline are supposed to continue the seed stitch texture, so this is why you kfb on both the right and wrong sides. Good catch though! Let me know how the rest of the pattern goes and feel free to write back in if you have any other questions!
Best,
Adam
I am at this point in the pattern too. For row 2, it seems the increase should be a PFB instead of a KFB. Otherwise the seed stitch pattern would be extending past the existing neckline stitches. And for the following 12 rows, the pattern says to do all increases in stockinette stitch. Am I missing something?
Hello Julie,
Thanks for reaching out! When you turn your work to begin your next row all of your knits become purls and all your purls become knits. This means that you are ending with a knit stitch, but when you turn your work to start knitting back across the wrong side row, the stitch you just knit will be a purl.
I hope this all makes sense, but let us know if you have any further questions!
Best,
Marilla
very easy to fallow and nice pattern have agood day
Hi I am knew to knitting and was wondering if there was any way you could add pictures to the steps or a video I struggle when it gets to the sleeves and I really want to make this sweater for each of my boys please and thank you
Hi Roxie,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources at this moment to add more content to the pattern but we will keep this in mind for future patterns!
-Adam
So you have any suggestions for yarn substitutions? This yarn looks lovely but it’s so expensive; especially for a child’s garment!
Hi Diana,
Thanks for writing us! We understand that sometimes our yarn choices are more than you may want to spend. The Koigu that we used for this pattern is a fingering weight yarn. Madelinetosh Tosh Merino Light would make a nice substitute. You will need half as many skeins as the yardage is quite a bit higher and the price is a bit lower.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi there! I need some help!
I was doing really well (i think) until I got to the section titled “Left Front”…. so, if I understand the pattern correctly this section should start be WS since the row before it was RS, correct? If that’s the case I don’t understand how to get my yarn to left front because it is at the end of the needle on the right front.
Maybe I’m looking at my work the wrong way? If I’m holding my work in front of me, the purl side is facing me with the yarn on the far right(making the next row I would work on WS)…but if I flip the sweater and look at the knit side aka the back that I just finished then the yarn is on the “left side”.
I don’t know… I’m just confused! haha
Thanks,
Alexa
Hi Alexa,
Thanks for writing us. Hopefully I can clarify this! The left front actually starts on a right side row and ends on a wrong side row before increasing for the left front neck. After you bind off the back neck you should have your left front and left sleeve in your left hand. Continuing directly after your bind off you’ll start the left front section. I hope this clears things up!
-Adam
Writing in for a little more clarity, as I’ve reread this response several times and think I must still be misinterpreting it. As Alexa says, after the bindoff of the back collar and finishing the right side of the Left Sleeve, we turn our work to begin the Left Front, correct? So then we’re on the wrong side, working with the same yarn on the Left Front.
That area begins with Seed Stitch, then we get to stockinette. What do we do now—knit (as we have been for previous right-side rows) or purl (which would technically be “in pattern” since we seem to now be on the wrong side)?
Sorry—I would really appreciate a tiny bit more clarity! When I did what I think Adam instructed, I ended up reversing the stockinette. Do we actually have a new definition of “right side”?
Hi Shannon,
Thanks for reaching out! I believe you are at a different step than what Adam is describing – he is referring to the section where you begin increases to shape the front neck, which starts with a right side row. The section before that, titled “Left Front,” does begin with a wrong side row. Either way, in the stockinette portions of this sweater, you should always be knitting on the right side and purling on the wrong side, and the right and wrong sides will not be switching.
I hope that clarifies everything!
Julianna
Hi there,
I’m a little confused about Row 2 in the sleeves section. I’ve cast on and successfully done the row 1 section but am I now to just cast on the next 60 stitches in what would appear to create one very long sleeve for now? I currently have the row 1 stitches on my right needle and the rest of the project on my left. SO, if I were to cast on the 60 additional I just don’t see how it would continue to be the correct shape for the sweater. Thanks!
I think I figured it out, I didn’t understand initially that in row one you need to continue knitting back through the back of the sweater, not just the newly cast on stiches!
Hello 🙂
What a beautiful pattern this is! I’m using a hand dyed ombre yarn for this, which I think is going to look lovely. I’m just wondering if there are any instructions available for knitting this in the round, and using a steek for the neck opening?
I’m in no way an expert knitter, so perhaps this isn’t even feasible?!
Thanks so much for your inspiring patterns and your user friendly site! It’s my ‘go-to’ site for that instant feel good factor, when you can grab a few moments between the daily chaos and dream of future projects!!
Mary
Mi Mary,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! Altering this pattern to knitting in the round with a steak would be quite a lot of work. I would recommend knitting it as written or if you are interested in trying a steak, try our Tiny Stripes Cardigan and Vest pattern!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi there,
I’m at “shape front left neck” and I seem to have lost a stitch marker somewhere. I only have a marker now separating the seed stitch portion on the end of the sleeve.
To stop at the first marker, how many stitches in/ or left, should I be at at this point?
Thanks!
Hi Kassandra,
Thanks for writing in! We would be to try to help you out figuring out where your markers should be. Can you please tell me what size you are knitting?
Best,
Cassy
I love this little pattern,
I am a small trim petite lady and after all considerations I feel confident that I can knit this adorable v-neck top up for myself. I’m anxious to gibe it a ‘go’. Thank you.
I love this sweater! I will be making this for my boy/girl twins very soon! I would love to have an adult version of this sweater!! *hint hint* in womens medium!
I made this. It was an easy pattern to follow. Folded the sleeves up and put a stitch in to hold them up. Found they kept unrolling. Used Loops and Threads woolike yarn. I also would like to put a wood button or toggle at the neck. I found it flaps open too much. I followed the size 4 pattern and my 3.5 yr old is wearing it. Is there a way to add a picture?
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for writing in! We are so glad that this pattern worked out well for you and we were so happy to receive the photo! It is always such a joy to see our patterns worked up and on happy recipients!
Best,
Cassy
I’m stuck on the sleeve cast on… the link you have for the cable cast on says have the wrong side of your work face you but the pattern says have the right side face you. Should I be starting the sleeve cast on where I would normally start the next knit row? Can I follow the cable knit cast on instructions from your link the same way even if it’s done on the opposite side?
Hello Analyn,
Thank you for reaching out! To cast on for the sleeve with the right side facing you, you’ll use the working yarn which is coming from the first stitch and you will use a cable cast on technique to cast on the instructed number of stitches, just as you would following the tutorial. Once you have completed the cable casted on, the right side will still be facing you and the working yarn will be coming from the stitch you’ve just cast on which is now the first stitch of the row. Work across those newly casted on stitches and the to the end of the row as instructed (seed stitch first and then knitting to the end). Next you’ll do the same thing for the other sleeve, but this time with the wrong side facing and once you’ve worked in seed stitch, you’ll purl and then finish the row in seed stitch.
I hope this is helpful and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi – question about gauge. 28 stitches = 4 inches. Is this the gauge swatch? Meaning, 28 stitches across and 28 up equals 4 inches square? Trying to make sure I adjust my gauge correctly before I start. Also, any recommended website to adjust gauge? Thank you!
Hi Sara,
Thanks for reaching out! For this lovely sweater we are giving just the stitch gauge and not the row gauge. Knit stitches are wider than they are tall so when you see a gauge that gives both, it will generally have more stitches vertically than horizontally. Here, stitch gauge is the more critical measure!
As to adjusting gauge, if you are getting more stitches per inch than notes, you will want to go up in needle size and if you are getting fewer stitches per inch, you will want to go down in needle size!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thanks Cassy! As I read through the pattern, I realize it gives a lot of ‘knit until this big’ instructions, rather than amount of rows, so that helps. I am getting 30 stitches for 4 inches. Do you think that would be ok, and the sweater would just be slightly smaller (doing the smallest size). Or do you think I should convert all the instructions slightly to adjust to my gauge? Don’t want the proportions to be off. Thanks!
Sara
Hello Sara,
Thank you for your reply! 30 stitches vs 28 stitches can add up over a sweater to be significant. What I would recommend doing is going up one needle size and seeing if that will get you to the correct gauge. That being said if can be flexible with size you could always stick with your gauge and go up one sweater size. Sometimes with kids sweaters size is slightly less crucial. I hope this answers your questions and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
I am confused about the Seed Knit stitch. In the directions, it states: Seed Stitch: (multiple of 2 stitches + 1) All Rows: K1, *p1, k1, repeat from *.
However, if I cast on 71 stitches and do K1, p1, k1, I end on a knit one. In my mind, that means that when I start the WS row, I should P1 first. Am I missing something?
Hello Sara,
Thank you for reaching out! When you turn your work to begin your next row all of your knits become purls and all your purls become knits. This means that you are ending with a knit stitch, but when you turn your work to start knitting back across the wrong side row, the stitch you just knit will be a purl.
I hope this all makes sense! It becomes much clearer as you start to knit, I promise. If you have any more questions- just let us know!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Question about cable cast on – in this pattern, says with right side facing you. On the Cable Cast on tutorial page, it says with wrong side facing you. Will it be the same steps with the right side facing me, as the pattern states? Never done this before, feeling anxious! Thanks!
Hello Sara,
Thank you for reaching out! In this case you will follow what the pattern tells you to do. You can do a cable cast on either the right or wrong side, depending on what your pattern tells you to do. If you come across any other questions don’t hesitate to ask – we are here for you!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Oh this is beautiful!! Any chance you’ve adapted the pattern for adults yet as I’ve been reading that there is quite a bit of request for adult size and chunky yarn? Thank you 🙂
Hi Sabine,
Thanks for reaching out and for the very kind words! Although we still only have children’s sizes, I will pass along your request to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
I think you should adapt this here pattern for adults too. This is a beaut.
Hi,
I’m finally getting close to completing this beautiful project but I’ve hit a snag at the Right Sleeve section. The left side is tucked away on a piece of yearn. I did the bind off of the right sleeve and I’m trying to understand this part: “Cable cast on 1 stitch for center neck, work this stitch in Seed stitch, then work the xx stitches of Left side in patterns”.
You didn’t say anything about putting the left side stitches back on the needle, where/when do you do that?
Should cable cast on 1, then add the left side on the left needle (facing right side), then turn turn facing wrong side, do 1 seed with the cast on, turn again and continue working on right side the cast on stitch again and the left side?
Sorry, I’m kind of an old beginner and I can’t find a video online to explain this step.
Hello Olivia,
Thank you for reaching out. I know this part is confusing, but you are on the right track! You are going to be on the right side throughout this Row. You will Cable Cast-On 1 stitch for center neck with the right side facing you and then, still with the right side facing you, work this stitch in Seed Stitch, then work the 35 (40, 44, 52, 56, 60, 63) stitches of Left Side in patterns as established. Ending with 71 (81, 91, 105, 113, 121, 127) stitches.
I hope this makes sense and let me know if I can clarify anything for you!
Warmly,
Marilla
I had the same question and the explanation unfortunately doesn’t clarify for me. I just finished the right front bind off of 60 stitches and then worked the remaining 35 stitches.
1. Do I pick-up a stitch from the middle of the neck and then do the cable cast on?
2. Do I just add a stitch using the cable cast-on right next to the 35 I just completed on the right side?
3. How do you work one stitch in seed stitch?
4. Once I cast on the one stitch do I work I put the stitches on the left front from the stitch holder on my other needle and work them in pattern?
Thanks,
Hillary
Hi Hillary,
Thanks for reaching out. Let me see if I can answer the specific questions you’re wondering about! First, you’ll work the cable cast on right after the 35 stitches you just completed. You don’t need to pick up any extra stitches to do this–just insert your needle between the previous two stitches on your needles and cast on the extra stitch. To work this stitch in seed stitch, you’ll work the next stitch in pattern. So for example, if your 35th stitch was a knit stitch, then you’ll purl the stitch you just cast on, but if the 35th stitch was a purl stitch, then you’ll knit the extra stitch instead. And finally, yes, you’ll put the stitches on hold for the left front back on your needles to finish this row! I hope this clarifies things more for you.
All the best,
Lili
hi i was wondering why you would need to use a circular needle on this jumper? thanks
Hi Donna,
Thanks for reaching out! Although this pullover is knitted flat, since it is all in one piece, you will have quite a few stitches on your needles at once during the sleeves – up to 347 depending on which size you are making. We find it much easier to fit that many stitches on a circular needle, but if you have long straight needles that could accommodate that many stitches you could certainly use them instead.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello,
Thanks for publishing this beautiful pattern. I’m not a very experienced knitter and I’m wondering if there would be a simple enough way to alter the neckline so that it is a loose crew neck instead of the V-neck, but keeping the seed-stitch.
Thanks for any advice!
Hello Hellen,
Thanks for reaching out! There are a couple of ways you could try this out. The simplest way would be to omit the “Work even until piece measures 10 (11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14) inches from beginning of Sleeve, ending with a right- side row.” portion for the Front Left and Front Right. This is the section that is giving you the v shape.
This would mean two very important things.
Firstly, because this is taking space away from the neck opening, your neck might end up two small for a head. I would suggest adding an inch or so to the Left Front and Right Front before beginning your increases. Secondly, you are going to still need that length in your sleeves that you would have been working simultaneously with the neck shaping. This means that you would need to continue to knit your sleeves during the “Front” portion of the pattern until they reach the length of knitting you omitted “10 (11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14) inches from beginning of Sleeve”.
This all might take a bit of experimenting, but you can definitely do it!
Let us know how it goes an happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you so much for the extra directions, I’m really happy with how it turned out! Haven’t been able to try it on the recipient baby yet to see if it fits over her head but looks like it should!
I’M QUITE SURE I NEED THIS IN ADULT SIZES, PLEASE.
Hi Janne,
Thanks for writing in! At present we do not have an adult version of this sweater, but I’ll be sure to pass your request along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Thank you for sizing this up for kids. It’s ambitious for me, but I may just try to make one for my eight year old. (The last sweater I started for him has yet to be finished though!) I don’t know my yarn terminology well. I did look at the link for the type of yarn used (Koigu) and I saw a tag of “fingerling” but I saw earlier in the description that maybe the yarn used for the sweater is worsted? I know gauge is the most important part of this but I’ll need somewhere to start. So, worsted or fingerling? What should I start with?
Thank you!
HI Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help! The yarn used for this sweater is a fingering weight yarn! The version of this sweater that appears in Joelle’s lovely book uses worsted weight but this version above uses fingering weight yarn which is great for its light weight nature!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello, beautiful pattern and so far very easy to follow. Just a quick question…I’m knitting the 12-24 month size and working on the sleeves. Have gotten to the point where my sleeves measure 4.5 inches from the beginning of the sleeve. Well 4.5 inches of the stockinette stitch, my seed stitch is slightly smaller so it’s more like 4.25 inches. Should I continue until my seed stitch cuffs reach 4.5 inches or is this measurement ok for the stockinette?
Hope that makes sense.
Many thanks
Charlotte
Hi Charlotte,
Thanks for writing in! I suspect that your seed stitch will block out a bit wider, so I would go with your stockinette measurement – otherwise the sleeve may end up too baggy at the upper arm and shoulder. If it doesn’t block out wider, it will be just fine for the cuff to be a little tighter than the rest of the sleeve!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
That’s very helpful, thank you for replying Julianna!
Hi,
This is the 2nd sweater I have knit and it has been super easy to understand up until now. I have the left side on a stitch holder and am starting the right side. How am I supposed to rejoin the yarn onto my stitches? Right now it’s just a section with no tail to be able to knit.
Thanks,
Steph
Hello Stephanie,
Thanks for reaching out! For this section you will need to join another ball of yarn, or cut your working yarn to rejoin to knit the right side.
I hope this makes sense, let us know if you have any clarifying questions!
-Marilla
I’m about to start Left Front. I have been knitting on straight needles. How do I just knit the left front and what do I do with the Right Front stitches while I’m not working on them? Is it essential to switch to circular needles now, or put those stitches somewhere in a ‘holding zone’? This is my first time only knitting part of the whole number of stitches at once and I’m a little confused. Is there a video that might be illuminating? Hard to envision and I don’t want to just jump in and start and end up with a jumble. Thanks!
Hi Sara,
Thanks for reaching out! It is possible to do this step as written on straight needles, but it’s a bit tricky to visualize! You will essentially ignore the Right Front stitches, and every time you knit across the Left Front stitches and get to the bound off neck stitches, turn and work back across the Left Front stitches for the next row. It will look odd, but it works! If it makes it easier, you can certainly place the Right Front stitches on a holder while you work the Left Front!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I just finished the end of Shape Front Left Neck and instead of 95 stitches I just counted and have 98. Do I need to do something to fix this (knit two together in three random spots?) or will I just bind off more (63?) when I get to that step? Not sure how I ended up with the extra 3 stitches, but hoping I can just recover somehow.
Hi Sara,
Thanks for reaching out! Since the Left and Right Front pieces have to match, and casting off extra stitches would make one side of the sleeve longer than the other, I would unfortunately recommend going back to your increases in this side. It sounds like you probably worked too many increase rows, so you should be able to take out three increases rows to get to 95 stitches, and then knit the plain rows to get back to 10 inches.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi there,
I am currently knitting this sweater and have a technical question regarding the neck shaping.
I am at this point in the pattern:
SHAPE FRONT LEFT NECK
Row 1 (right side): Work in pattern to first marker, slip marker (sm), knit into front and back of next stitch (kfb), work in patterns to end. [82 (99, 115, 136, 142, 146, 153) stitches]
Row 2: Work in patterns to 1 stitch before second marker, kfb, sm, work in pattern to end. [83 (100, 116, 137, 143, 147, 154 stitches]
**My question is for when I start Row 2. Would Row 2 be the wrong side? Therefore is the second marker the one right before the neck trim? If so my question is since I am knitting on the purl side when I do the stitch increase do I switch so that increase using kfb? Or am I supposed to increase using pfb.
Hope my question makes sense.
Thank you!
Zahra
Hi Zahra,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, Row 2 is a wrong side row, and you will still be increasing at the neck edge. Although it seems like it would, the wrong side of a pfb does not look like the right side of a kfb, but both stitches will blend nicely into the edge of the seed stitch border, so a kfb is correct!
Best,
Julianna
Hi Julianna,
great, thank you!
I’m just casting on the 12-24 and this sweater looks huge for a 2 year old. My daughter is quite slim, but the front could almost wrap around her body. Is this meant to have a lot of ease width wise?
Hi Emily,
Thanks for writing to us! Most children’s garment patterns are written to have more ease than adult patterns, but if it’s really looking too big you might want to try changing your needle size to something smaller. Is your gauge 28 stitches over 4 inches, or close to that? Let me know if you have any other questions!
Best,
Cassandra
I am confused about shaping the left front:
Row 1 (right side): Work in pattern to first marker, slip marker (sm), knit into front and back of next stitch (kfb), work in patterns to end. [82 (99, 115, 136, 142, 146, 153) stitches]
Row 2: Work in patterns to 1 stitch before second marker, kfb, sm, work in pattern to end. [83 (100, 116, 137, 143, 147, 154 stitches]
Does this mean Row 2 is a “purl front to back” pfb?
I have just been doing kfp on the right side row only increasing every right side row.
thanks for helping!
Hi Naomi
That’s a great question! Although it seems like it would, the wrong side of a pfb does not look like the right side of a kfb, but both stitches will blend nicely into the edge of the seed stitch border, so a kfb is correct on Row 2. If you only increased on the RS rows, your neckline will be longer than the original pattern when you get to the correct number. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting
Jessica
Hi, I’m knitting this and at the sleeves– the pattern says to measure from the “beginning of Sleeve,” but I am getting pretty different measurements depending on whether I measure from the edge of the stockinette portion of the sleeve (measured a little longer) vs. the seed stitch version of the sleeve (measures a little shorter.) Any advice for me? Thank you!
Hi Audra,
Thanks for reaching out! For this part of the pattern, you measure from the cast on edge of the sleeve!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
The binding off for the back of the neck is done on the right side. The work should now continue on the left front only for one inch (for the smallest size). Is this done from the end of the sleeve towards the neckline? If the left front refers to the side as the child wears it, I will need to restart the yarn on the other side from where I finished the neck binding off row. Is this correct? Thanks so much. It’s coming along nicely so far.
Hi Andrea,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct! Once you bind off the stitches you will continue with the left side sleeve!
Happy knitting!
Gianna