Autumn Equinox Vest
Gear up for fall hikes through the changing leaves with this cozy zippered vest. Easy details make this project fun and unique: a lofty slip stitch rib, pretty waist shaping and a bold plastic zipper. (Conquer zipper fears with our new Zipper Tutorial!)
I think vests are an autumn staple, and, for me, a pure knitting pleasure. Without sleeves, it’s over before you even knew it began! And on to the next project!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Whitney Van Nes.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoAutumnEquinoxVest. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 5 skeins of Blue Sky Alpaca’s Worsted, 50% superfine alpaca and 50% merino wool. Approximately 615 yards required. We used the color Chocolate.
- US 8 (5 mm) 24- or 32-inch circular needles
- US 8 16-inch circular needles
- US 9 (5.5 mm) 24- or 32-inch circular needles
- Stitch markers
- 3 stitch holders
- An 18 inch separating molded plastic zipper. We used the color Fuchsia.
- Gutermann Cotton Thread. We used #2960.
- A Hand Sewing Needle
- Straight Pins
Shop our wonderful collection of aran + worsted-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
Gauge
19 stitches = 4 inches in rib pattern, unstretched
Size
- Chest Circumference = 33 inches, stretched
- Waist Circumference = 31 inches, stretched
- Top of Shoulder to Bottom Hem = 20 inches
NOTE: To make bigger sizes, knit at a looser gauge (by changing needle sizes).
- 18 stitches per 4 inches will make a vest with a 35 inch chest and 33½ inch waist.
- 16 stitches per 4 inches will make a 39¾ inch chest and 37¾ inch waist.
- 15 stitches per 4 inches will make a 42½ inch chest and 40¼ inch waist.
Remember also that ribbing stretches. These final measurements are of the rib totally relaxed and unstretched. For a tight fit, choose your actual chest measurement or slightly smaller. For a looser fit, pick a finishes chest measurement about 2 inches bigger than your actual measurement.
Note
SLIP STITCHES
Slip all slip stitches purlwise with yarn in front.
Pattern
Body
With the longer US 8 needle, cast on 159 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Knit 2 rows.
Change to the US 9 needle.
Row 1 (right side): *K3, slip 1 (see Note) repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
Row 2 (wrong side): K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 3 inches from the cast on edge, ending with a wrong side row.
Waist Shaping: Decreasing
Decrease Row (right side): *K3, slip 1, repeat from * 8 more times, k1, k2tog, place a marker, slip 1, ssk, k1, **slip 1, k3, repeat from ** 17 more times (there should be 113 stitches on the right needle), slip 1, k1, k2tog, place a marker, slip 1, ssk, k1, ***slip 1, k3, repeat from *** to end. (155 stitches)
Next Row (wrong side): K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to 2 stitches before marker, slip 1, k1, slip marker**, repeat from * to **, ***slip 1, k3, repeat from *** to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.
Next Row: *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before first marker, k2, slip marker, slip 1, k2, **slip 1, k3, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before second marker, slip 1, k2, slip marker, slip 1, k2, ***slip 1, k3, repeat from *** to end.
Repeat the last two rows 1 time.
Repeat the wrong side row 1 more time.
Decrease Row (right side): *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before first marker, k1, slip 1 with yarn in back, remove marker, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, replace marker, k1, **slip 1, k3, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before second marker, slip 1, k1, slip 1 with yarn in back, remove marker, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, replace marker, k1, ***slip 1, k3, repeat from *** to end. (151 stitches)
Next Row: K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.
Next Row: *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
Repeat the last 2 rows until the piece measures 7 inches from the cast on edge, ending with a wrong side row.
Waist Shaping: Increasing
Increase Row (right side): *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before first marker, k1, m1R, k1, slip marker, m1L, k1, **slip 1, k3, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before second marker, slip 1, k1, m1R, k1, slip marker, m1L, k1, ***slip 1, k3, repeat from *** to end. (155 stitches)
Next Row (wrong side): K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to 1 stitch before marker, slip 1, slip marker, k1, ** repeat from * to **, ***slip 1, k3, repeat from *** to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.
Next Row: *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to 3 stitches before first marker, k3, slip marker, k2, **slip 1, k3, repeat from ** to second marker, slip marker, k2, ***slip 1, k3, to end.
Repeat last 2 rows until piece measures 9 inches from the cast on edge, ending with a wrong side row.
Increase Row: *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to 3 stitches before first marker, k2, m1R, k1, slip marker, m1L, k2, **slip 1, k3, repeat from ** to 4 stitches before second marker, slip 1, k2, m1R, k1, slip marker, m1L, k2, ***slip 1, k3, repeat from *** to end. (159 stitches)
Next Row: K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip1, k1.
Next Row: K3, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to end.
Repeat last 2 rows until piece measures 11 inches from cast on edge, ending with a wrong side row.
Underarms
Row 1 (right side): *K3, slip1, repeat from * to 4 stitches after the first marker, put the last 9 stitches on a holder (removing the marker)**, repeat from * to **, ***k3, slip 1, repeat from *** to end.
There are now 35 stitches for the left front, 9 stitches on hold for the left underarm, 71 stitches for the back, 9 stitches on hold for the right underarm, and 35 stitches for the right front.
Left Front
NOTE: For the Left Front section,you will only work the 35 stitches of the left front (“left” as if you were wearing the vest). You can just leave the rest of the stitches on the circular needle and ignore them, or if you prefer, you can put the back and right front stitches on holders or on a loop of scrap yarn.
Left Armhole
Row 1 (wrong side): K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches (before the underarm stitches), slip 1, k1.
Row 2 (right side): K1, k2tog, *slip1 , k3, repeat from * to end. (34 stitches)
Row 3: K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1.
Row 4: K1, k2tog, *k3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3. (33 stitches)
Row 5: K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to end.
Row 6: K1, k2tog, k2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to end. (32 stitches)
Row 7: K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2.
Row 8: K1, k2tog, k1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to end. (31 stitches)
Rows 9-15: Repeat Rows 1-7, ending with 28 stitches.
Row 16: K4, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to end.
Row 17: Repeat Row 7.
Repeat the last 2 rows until the left front measures 18 inches from the cast on edge, ending with a right side row.
Left Neck
Row 1 (wrong side): Bind off 6 stitches, k2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k2. (22 stitches)
Row 2 (right side): K4, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.
Row 3: Bind off 2 stitches, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2. (20 stitches)
Row 4: K4, *slip 1 , k3, repeat from * to end.
Row 5: K1, k2tog, k2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2. (19 stitches)
Row 6: K4, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2.
Row 7: K1, k2tog, k1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2. (18 stitches)
Row 8: Repeat Row 2.
Row 9: K1, k2tog, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2. (17 stitches)
Row 10: K4, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1.
Row 11: K1, k2tog, *k3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2. (16 stitches)
Row 12: Repeat Row 4.
Left Shoulder
Row 1 (wrong side): K1, k2tog, k2, [slip 1, k3] 2 times, wrap and turn. (15 total stitches)
Row 2 (right side): K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2.
Row 3: K4, slip 1, k3, slip 1, wrap and turn.
Row 4: K2, slip 1, k3, slip 1, k2.
Row 5: K4, slip 1, k1, wrap and turn.
Row 6: K3, slip 1, k2.
Row 7: K4, [slip 1, k3] 2 times, slip 1, k2, picking up the wraps as you get to them.
Put the 15 left front stitches on a stitch holder and cut the yarn.
Back
NOTE: Now you will only be working the center 71 stitches, ignoring the remaining 35 stitches that are on hold for the right front.
Back Armholes
With the wrong side facing you, join new yarn.
Row 1 (wrong side): K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.
Row 2 (right side): K1, k2tog, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, slip 1, ssk, k1. (69 stitches)
Row 3: K4, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 4: K1, k2tog, *k3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, k3, ssk, k1. (67 stitches)
Row 5: *k3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
Row 6: K1, k2tog, k2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, slip 1, k2, ssk, k1. (65 stitches)
Row 7: K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2.
Row 8: Repeat Row 3.
Repeat last 2 rows until the back measures 19 inches from the cast on edge, ending with a wrong side row.
Back Neck
Row 1 (right side): K4, [slip 1, k3] 4 times, bind off 25 stitches, k2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. (20 stitches for each shoulder)
Back Left Shoulder
NOTE: Now you will just be working the 20 stitches of the back left shoulder.
Row 1 (wrong side): K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.
Row 2 (right side): Bind off 3 stitches, *k3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4. (17 stitches)
Row 3: K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2.
Row 4: Bind off 2 stitches, k1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. (15 stitches)
Row 5: K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 6: K2, [slip 1, k3] 2 times, slip 1, k1, wrap and turn.
Row 7: *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4.
Row 8: K2, slip 1, k3, slip 1, k2, wrap and turn.
Row 9: [Slip 1, k3] 2 times, k1.
Row 10: K2, slip 1, k3, wrap and turn.
Row 11: K1, slip 1, k4.
Row 12: K2, slip 1, k3, p1, k3, slip 1, k4, picking up the wraps as you get to them.
Row 13: K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Assembling Left Shoulders
With the right sides facing each other of the left front and left back shoulders, use the three needle bind off to knit them together. In order to make the seam less noticable, do the three needle bind off purling the 2 stitches together, instead of knitting. Here’s how:
Holding the knitting needle and the stitch holder parallel to each other, insert the other end of the knitting needle into the first stitch on the back needle like you’re purling.
Then insert the needle into the first stitch on the front needle, also purling.
Purl the 2 stitches together. (At the beginning of the row, you need to repeat these steps so there are two stitches on the right needle. After that, you only have to follow these steps once in order to end up with two stitches on the right needle.)
Then pass the first stitch over the second, just like a normal bind off. There will be one stitch left on the right needle. Purl 2 together again from the parallel needles, and bind off a stitch. Continue until there is one stitch left, cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitch.
Back Right Shoulder
NOTE: Now you will just be working the 20 stitches of the back right shoulder.
With the right side facing you, join new yarn.
Row 1 (right side): K4, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to end.
Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 3 stitches, k1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2. (17 stitches)
Row 3: K4, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 4: Bind off 2 stitches, *k3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2. (15 stitches)
Row 5: K4, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2.
Row 6: K4, [slip 1, k3] 2 times, wrap and turn.
Row 7: K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2.
Row 8: K4, slip 1, k3, slip 1, wrap and turn.
Row 9: K2, slip 1, k3, slip 1, k2.
Row 10: K4, slip 1, k1, wrap and turn.
Row 11: K3, slip 1, k2.
Row 12: K4, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last3 stitches, k3, picking up the wraps as you get to them.
Put the 15 back right shoulder stitches on a holder and cut the yarn.
Right Front
NOTE: For the Right Front section you will be working the remaining 35 stitches.
Right Armhole
With the wrong side facing, join new yarn.
Row 1 (wrong side): K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.
Row 2 (right side): *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, ssk. k1. (34 stitches)
Row 3: K4, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.
Row 4: *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, k3, ssk, k1. (33 stitches)
Row 5: *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 6: * K3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k2, ssk, k1. (32 stitches)
Row 7: K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.
Row 8: *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, ssk, k1. (31 stitches)
Rows 9-15: Repeat Rows 1-7, ending with 28 stitches.
Row 16: *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4.
Row 17: Repeat Row 7.
Repeat the last 2 rows until the front right measures 18 inches from the cast on edge, ending with a wrong side row.
Right Neck
Row 1 (right side): Bind off 6 stitches, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. (22 stitches)
Row 2 (wrong side): K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to end.
Row 3: Bind off 2 stitches, k2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. (20 stitches)
Row 4: K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.
Row 5: K1, k2tog, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. (19 stitches)
Row 6: K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 7: K1, k2tog, *k3, slip 1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. (18 stitches)
Row 8: Repeat Row 2.
Row 9: K1, k2tog, k2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. (17 stitches)
Row 10: K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2.
Row 11: K1, k2tog, k1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. (16 stitches)
Row 12: Repeat Row 4.
Right Shoulder
Row 1 (right side): K1, k2tog, [slip 1, k3] 2 times, slip 1, k1, wrap and turn. (15 total stitches)
Row 2 (wrong side): *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4.
Row 3: K2, slip 1, k3, slip 1, k2, wrap and turn.
Row 4: Slip 1, k3, slip 1, k4.
Row 5: K2, slip 1, k3, wrap and turn.
Row 6: K1, slip 1, k4.
Row 7: K2, slip 1, k3, p1, k3, slip 1, k4, picking up the wraps as you get to them.
Row 8: K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
With the right sides facing each other of the right front and right back shoulders, use the purlwise three needle bind off to assemble them.
Finishing
Armhole Edging
With the shorter US# 8 needle and the right side facing you, start picking up to the left of the underarm stitches.
Pick up 35 stitches up to the shoulder seam, and pick up 34 stitches down to the underarm stitches. (69 stitches)
Round 1: Place a marker, purl the 9 underarm stitches from the holder, and purl to the end of the round. (78 stitches)
Round 2: Knit.
Bind off in purl stitch.
Repeat for the other armhole.
Neckband
With the longer US# 8 needle and the right side facing you, start picking up at the corner of the right front neck.
Pick up 16 stitches up to the right shoulder seam; pick up 34 stitches across the back to the left shoulder seam; and pick up 16 stitches down to the corner of the left front neck.
Knit 4 rows.
Bind off in knit stitch and cut the yarn.
Weave in all the ends.
Zipper
Gently block the vest. As you lay the vest out to dry, make sure that the distance from the cast on edge to the base of the neckband measures 18 inches. Alpaca wants to stretch, especially when it’s wet, so don’t let it grow too big for your zipper!
After pinning the zipper in place, use the thread and sewing needle to sew the zipper to the vest. For detailed instructions of this step, please check out our Zipper Tutorial.
You’re done!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
What a wonderful Tute !!! (as all of yours are!) This is just perfect for me to make my first vest, as daughter would like one, I will only knit it if she wears it, she doesn’t like fussy, girly stuff….this stitch is perfect! and those zippers are my fave kind!
Clear pictures (always!) and clear instructions. Thank you~~~
I am generally not a garment knitter (no patience for that) but this looks extremely cool and like something that I could conquer for my first garment. Thank you so mcuh for the clear instructions and sharing at purl bee!
Great tutorial. Can you tell me the number of stitches the stitch pattern is based on or the repeat?
i can see lots of uses for this stitch pattern after i make the vest.
Many thanks!
CatKnitz
This is so cute, looks great, and fast to knit! Truly an inspirational Autumn project before all the holiday knitting really gets underway! Love the color pop of the zipper, too! Many thanks!
Suzanne
I am making the vest for my daughter. Your directions are easy to follow, and I LOVE the yarn. However, I have run up on a couple of questions. First, in the increase row for the waist shaping, I am thinking there may be a typo. There appears to be an extra “m” before a “k1”.
Second, in making the left shoulder (that’s as far as I have gotten), there is a direction to wrap, and then later to pick up the wraps. This is a new term to me. Am I wrapping the yarn around the needle? How is that different from a yo? Am I wrapping the yarn around the slipped stitch that was the end of the prior row? If so, how do I pick it up later?
Thank you again for the wonderful pattern. The yarn has a marvelous feel, and the stitch pattern shows off the yarn beautifully.
Hi Marcia,
That extra “m” was indeed a typo – thank you for pointing that out!
As for the wrapping, the shoulders are shaped using Short Rows. If you click on the term “Wrap and Turn”, and then later on “Picking Up the Wraps”, you will be linked to our Short Rows Tutorial which explains the techniques. Or you can just go directly to the tutorial at https://www.purlsoho.com/create/short-row-tutorial/.
Short Rows add subtle shaping to garments, creating more flattering and sophisticated fits. So it’s a very useful technique to learn!
Thank you so much for your correction and question! Good luck!
Whitney
Whitney:
Thanks ever so much. Once I knew what I was supposed to be doing, it was easy. And, thanks again for the lovely pattern. It is working up beautifully.
Marcia
Okay, one additional question. On row 12 of the left shoulder there is a p1 instead of an s1. This is out of pattern, and unlike row 12 of the right shoulder. Should it be an s1?
Hi again Marcia,
If I recall correctly, I decided to purl that stitch instead of slipping it because it made picking up the wraps neater. Row 7 of the Right Front Shoulder also has a purl stitch where you would expect a slip.
I hope this makes sense. Please ask as many questions as you have – you’re a great technical editor!
Whitney
I have just begun the vest (after swatching). As it is developing, the rib pattern looks less sharply defined in real life than in the pictures, or than a 3/1 regular rib pattern looks. Is that your experience, too (I hope)?
Thank you.
Hi Laurel,
Sometimes this kind of rib takes quite a few inches before you can really see it because it pulls in so much. Did it look correct to you on the swatch?
I made this vest and love it. I documented my modifications (mostly size related) in my Ravelry projects. I created a spreadsheet to depict the neck shaping in chart form. Can I publish that spreadsheet in Google docs and link it to my Ravelry project (which is linked to your pattern)?
Everything you guys do…you do with so much love! Thanks for sharing with us. And…thank you for making knitting on the net such a fun place to be.
I'm moving to Philly soon…I hope to become a regular!
Whitney,
I would like to make the vest for a 34 3/4 chest snd 37 3/4 waist. Would you suggest using a size 10 needle? Also, would I still do the cast on row in a #8 or should I use a #9?
Thank you,
Tammy
Hi Tammy,
Well, it depends on two things: how you want your vest to fit and how you knit. First decide on the fit. The Finished Size section (in the pattern) gives you some pointers for deciding what finished dimension will be best for you. Once you know that, you'll know what gauge you want to knit at (also given in the Finished Size section). Then you'll have to try different needle sizes and knit up some swatches to make sure you're getting the right gauge for your finished size.
And, once you know what needle size you're using, use one size smaller for the trims.
I hope this helps. Please, please let me know if you have any questions! It's not as complicated as it sounds!
Whitney
I’m making this to be a size large so I’m using needles 10 & 11. I just knit the first couple rows and was going to switch to the larger needles…but it’s too right! What happens if I don’t switch needles?
I’m making this with larger needles, but otherwise am doing the pattern exactly. But my ribbing looks opposite – undulating rather than sharp. Why???
Hi Alicia-
Sorry to hear you’re having a problem with this! If you send us a photo of what you’re talking about we’d be happy to try to help. You can email us directly at purlbee AT purlsoho DOT com
Thanks!
Molly
Mystery solved! I visited with a local knit shop, and they pointed out the part about ‘yarn in front’ when slipping the stitch. I didn’t realize I needed to move the yarn from back to front and then back again after the slipped stitch! (I just left the yarn in the back the entire time.) While I’m not thrilled about having to undo my work, I’m so happy the mystery is solved and I can make a *normal* vest! 🙂
I have 5 skeins of the Blue Sky. Planning to knit the small sized vest. Want a length of 21″ rather than 20″. Will I be OK on yardage provided gauge is correct? Would have gotten an extra skein but my LYS required me to purchase in bags of 5. Will wait to hear back. Anxious to start the knit. Thanks for your help.
Hello Mary!
Honestly, I’m worried about the yardage for this pattern if you want to make it a little longer since the skeins are only about 100 yards and ribbing sometimes takes a bit more yarn! One inch should be fine, but I don’t want to guarantee anything and then you run out for the shoulders! I would definitely recommend getting an extra skein just in case, but this yarn is hand dyed so there is always an issue with the dye lots.
I think it would look awesome if you started off with the odd man out at the base of the vest and then started with the skeins that all match to continue and finish off the vest. If you can tell in the last photo of our tutorial, it seems like the skein is slightly off tone from the rest as well–and I think it adds such a lovely hand dyed dimension.
I hope this helps! Best of luck with his adorable vest! -Alyson
Thank you for your quick response. I hear you! I can be flexible with the length and will keep an eye on knitted weight. I’ll weigh the skeins and measure inches of knitting in the rib pattern. I think that will help guide my decision as I approach the waist shaping. A wee bit extra, if even 1/2″, would be nice. I so did want an extra skein but I had to keep an eye on my wallet. Like I said, my LYS was requiring me to purchase in quantities of five skeins. Didn’t like ;(
Hello Mary Pat!
Glad this helped! Yes, lots of companies sell their yarn in batches of 5. Best of luck! -Alyson
REALLY wish you would write up the pattern for larger sizes rather than just aiming for different gauge–which will give a totally different/looser fabric. It’s a great vest, but I need a 38″–too much of a difference in my view.
Hi Rochelle,
We appreciate your suggestion but unfortunately this pattern only comes in the size listed. This project is from a long time ago and since then we offer all our garment patterns in a range of sizes.
All the best,
Adam
I can’t found the link for sew the zipper.
Can you help me?
Thank you.
Hello Raquel,
Thank you for reaching out! Here is the link for the zipper tutorial; .
Best,
Marilla
Hi – I have alway loved this vest and am about to start knitting. Quick question: I’m making this for a man with a 38-40in chest. I think I’m fine re gauge. But he’s “tube” shaped so I really don’t think doing the tapering is for him. Should I count the rows in the pattern which take up the shaping and just keep going without decrease/increase? All advice welcome! Thanks –
Hi Lucy,
Thanks for writing in! Mens’ bodies often don’t have the same waist shape as women’s, so you can certainly omit the waist shaping if you wish! The number of cast on stitches are the same as the number of stitches at the chest after completing the waist shaping, which means you can just knit straight until the vest measures 11 inches.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi,
I love Purl Soho. It was my go to store in NYC. (online shopping is not the same). Anyway, I am a beginner knitter. I’ve made only scarves and some hats. Now I’d love to try a garment, but not brave enough to tackle a sweater. I love this vest, but the yarn is not longer available. Could you please recommend me another yarn? And How many yards do I need to knit this vest?
Thanks.
Hi Michelle!
We are so happy to hear you have enjoyed your visits to our store in the past! This vest is a great project to help bridge the gap from accessory to garment, and I’d recommend using Plenty, Linen Quill Worsted, or Worsted Twist for this project. All of these yarns would make for a super soft yet warm wool vest, and we also have Color Cards for these yarns, so that you can feel and see these yarns in person before committing to a whole project’s worth of yarn! Assuming you are knitting at gauge, you would still need about 500 yards, depending on size, to make this vest. This means you would need approximately 3.5 skeins of Plenty, 3 skeins of Linen Quill Worsted, or 3 skeins Worsted Twist.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Thank you so much!
Thank you for your lovely patterns and yarns. I have enjoyed knitting this vest so far but have a few queries about the wrap and turns. In your videos, you talk about the purl side/wrong side which doesn’t really apply to the pattern in this vest. sometimes the wrap and turn happens at a knit stitch but I’m on the wrong side, what should I do in that situation, also the same happens when picking up the wraps. One more question should I have a wrap to pick up at a “slip 1”. Many thanks!
Hi Robyn,
Thanks for writing in! Knit stitches on the right side and purls on the wrong side (stockinette) is probably the most common orientation you’ll encounter, which is why we refer to them that way in the tutorial. But there are many stitch patterns that have knits on the wrong side (and purls on the right), and in those cases you’d still work the wrap and turn as you would for a knit stitch (right side, in the tutorial). The same goes for picking up the wraps! If it’s a knit stitch, you’ll knit it with the wrap, and if it’s a purl stitch, you’ll purl it with the wrap.
For your final question, can you let me know what row in the pattern you’re wondering about?
All the best,
Lili
Thanks so much for your prompt reply Lili that answers my question and I read that in a couple of rows (row 7 – right shoulder and row 12 – back left shoulder you do a purl instead of a slip 1 so that solves my problem I think with picking up the wraps).
thanks again,
Robyn
You’re very welcome, Robyn!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, Thank you for the beautiful pattern.
I have come to a hurdle at the waist shaping increase. On the next row after the first increase row (wrong side), I have the correct number of stitches but when I arrive at the 1st marker, instead of having 1st left to slip after the serie of slip 1 + knit 3, I have 2 stitches. Could you please advise ?
Hi V,
Thanks for writing in! Hmmmmm, can you let me know if you worked the initial k1 stitch at the very beginning of Next Row (wrong side)? This stitch takes place before the series of slip 1, k3, and if it’s left out, then you would end up having 2 stitches before the marker. I think that may be what’s causing the issue, but let me know!
All the best,
Lili
Dear Lili,
Thank you for your reply. After checking, yes, I did knit the first stitch of that row. Could it be that the stitch marker was misplaced at another section of the work?
V
Hi V,
Thanks for checking! Yes, it could be that the stitch marker was placed incorrectly, or that you accidentally moved it at some point.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lili, off frogging I go…Sigh.