Zippers in Knits
One of our regular (and favorite!) customers, Sheri, came in to Purl the other day with an immaculately knit sweater in one hand and a ready-to-go zipper in the other. Like many of us she was a little daunted by the idea of zippers in knits, and no wonder – when it came time to sew in the zipper, her pattern instructed her to take everything to a tailor!
Instead of running to your nearest expert, why not become one yourself? Sewing in a zipper doesn’t require an apprenticeship with an Italian suit maker, or some kind of fashion degree – it’s easy!
This tutorial comes from our Snuggle Sack and uses a non-separating zipper, but the instructions are the same for a separating zipper.
Step 1: Block It
First, if you ever intend to wash your project, you should do so now (visit our How To Hand Wash A Sweater tutorial if you need help with this step). This will prevent unexpected stretching or shrinking. Of course, let the project dry before you sew in the zipper…
Step 2: Pin the Zipper Into Place
With the zipper closed, pin it into place. Make sure the bottom and/or top of the zipper are where they are supposed to be. (In this case, the bottom of the zipper is tucked right into the bottom of the zipper opening.) Bring the edge of the knitting up close to the zipper but not so close that yarn will get caught in the teeth when you zip and unzip. Also, both the zipper and the fabric should be flat and relaxed; don’t pull the fabric unnaturally or allow it to pucker between pins.
Step 3: Sew the Zipper
With a sewing needle and thread the same color as the yarn, back stitch the zipper into place. Working with the right side facing you, sew in a straight line, following the column of stitches just next to the edge of the knitting. I started at the bottom of the zipper and worked my way to the top, but unless you’re custom cutting a zipper, it doesn’t really matter.
Here’s what the knitting looks like all sewn to the zipper.
Step 4: Repeat Steps 2 and 3
Pin the other side of the zipper into place (including the bottom, if you’re using a non-separating zipper).
Sew this side of the zipper the same way you did the other side. (Sew across the bottom too, if you’re using a non-separating zipper.)
Step 5: Baste the Inside of the Zipper
Turn your project inside out, so the wrong side is facing you.
Fold the excess fabric from the top of the zipper down to the inside of the zipper and sew it into place.
Whipstitch the outside edge of the zipper to the knitting. Again, sew along a straight column of knit stitches so that everything stays in alignment. And, be sure you don’t pull the thread too tight. Try to stay relaxed and easy!
That’s it! Not so bad, right? And so much more satisfying than dropping it off at the tailor!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Thank you so much for this easy and straightforward “How to sew in a zipper” tutorial. I have started knitting some pillows for Xmas and now I can finish them with zippers and not buttons which will look very neat.
Thank you again and looking forward to more great tips and stories, Dagmar
Thanks very much for this! I found similar advice in my copy of The Principles of Knitting, but your instructions are far more detailed as far as finishing everything off. Also, the pictures are excellent – you can really see each stitch and tell exactly what to do.
Sweet info. I need this in the future.
Thanks for such a comprehensible tutorial! I’m about to insert my first zipper into a knit jacket – wish me luck!:-)
Great tutorial! I also found this one too, using blocking wires, which was quite helpful when adding a zipper to a floppier fabric: http://splityarn.com/2011/03/27/easiest-knitted-zipper-install-ever/
Great tutorial. One other thing you can do if you want, especially if the person wearing the garment will have the zipper open. Crochet a chain the length of the zipper and slip stitch it to the inside to cover over your back stitches. When the sweater is open, it will have a really nice, finished look.
Thank you for this suggestion. I have never liked the unfinished look of a zipper on the inside. Can you elaborate on how you do this? How tight is the chain? How do you attach it?
Thanks, I’m getting ready to insert a zipper into a knitted jacket.
I’ve been knitting and crocheting for years, but I’m about to apply my very first zipper to a sweater for a toddler grandson. These instructions look great.
Really helpful & clearly explained. Useful for 4 cushions done for Christmas
Thank you
Hi there. Thank you for this excellent tutorial. One question: Is there a reason not to machine sew the zipper on? Just wondering if I can save some time on the hand-sewing. I’m finishing a snuggle sack as we speak. It turned out great! Thanks!
Hi Staci-
We don’t have much experience with sewing zippers into hand knits by machine. We recommend hand sewing them in because it’s gentle on the fabric and lets you place the zipper precisely. However machine sewing is possible and you may want to google it or look up tutorials on YouTube to see if something catches your eye.
Thanks for getting in touch and good luck with the rest of your project!
Best-
Molly
Machine stitching could easily cause the zipper to “ruffle.” You probably need a walking foot that moves the top layer while the feed dogs move the bottom layer. Use the longest stitch length. Try it out on a knitted swatch and waste zipper first. I eventually plan to experiment with this technique, but 45 years of experience of couture clothing construction, tells me to do it by hand. It would be a shame to ruin knitting you’ve worked to hard on. – Cheryl
Excellent instructions!
Could you give an indication, please, of the size of the needle used for hand sewing a zipper tape to a knit? Thank you!
Hi Sarah,
When hand sewing a zipper into a knit, a good, sharp hand sewing needle of medium length would work well. The size 9 in this packet would be a good choice: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/4935-Clover-Gold-Eye-Milliners-Needles-No-3579
Thanks for writing!
Thanks for this – very handy
My daughter in law asked me to knit her some cushions for her new sofa. I had no idea how to put the zips in them, but your instructions are clear and straightforward and I am really pleased with them, so thank you very much, I am delighted with them and, hopefully, she will be too.
Thank you so much for your very easy to follow instructions. I have a beautiful zippered vest to finish up and I sure wanted to do it right after all the work! Can you tell me what the best type of zipper to purchase would be? The sweater vest is pretty large, if I got a zipper to go the whole way, it would be 32″ It shows the zipper going up the collar, but I guess I could stop at prior to that. I need to start shopping online to see what I can find. Do I use metal or plastic? Thanks very much!
Hi Bonnie,
Thanks for writing in! Metal is nicer in my opinion, but plastic is safer because it has less of a chance of snagging the knitting. Personally, I would do metal and just be careful when zipping up the front. Best of luck!
-Adam
Thank you so much for such easy directions! I think I can put in a zipper now for my Mom. It will bless her so! Thank you for enlarging the area you were sewing on so large, it made it so easy to see how to do it. I so greatly appreciate your effort and time you put into doing this for so many others. May God bless you!
Carla
Yikes! I did the unthinkable and accidentally felted the Purl Soho Pullover I made for my grandson – unbelievable! I’m thinking this could be salvaged for a smaller child by inserting a zipper and making a nice heavy jacket! Does anyone have experience doing this? I just think the sweater as it is would be too stiff and heavy as a pullover….open to any suggestions!
Hello Karen,
Thank you for writing- oh no! I think you are on the right track with the jacket Idea. That sounds like the perfect way to transform this accident into a great success! I’m sure this will make an adorable Jacket.
Happy felting!
-Marilla
great tut,but where can i buy teeny-tiny zips for dolls clothes to sew into knitted garments please? I have looked everywhere…tia
Hello Martha,
Thank you for reaching out! I’m not sure where to find doll zippers, perhaps if you do a quick google search you could find them online?
Good luck!
-Marilla
Thank you! I have sewn on the zipper for my cardigan!
I think there is an error in Step 5, where it says slip stitch. I believe the stitch shown in the photo is the whip stitch. Slip stitch is an invisible stitch for sewing in hems and looks a lot more complicated. I used the whip stitch to tack down the sides as shown in the tutorial.
Hi Mz,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so glad to hear that you enjoyed this tutorial and thank you for bringing this little error to our attention, that is correct it should say whip stitch and not slip stitch!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thank you for this clear tutorial–I always know I can rely on your many helpful and free tutorials. Purl SoHo is definitely a “brand” I trust!
Hi Rochelle,
Thank you so much for your kind words and for always supporting Purl Soho!
Happy New Year,
Gavriella