Twill Pot Holder
Thick, soft, and absorbent, our Twill Pot Holder knitting pattern in lovely Cotton Pure is a beautiful way to get a handle on your hottest, well, handles!
This may look like a woven fabric, but it’s actually a simple cable pattern that’s worked in a four-round repeat.
After a provisional cast-on and a few set-up rounds, you get into the rhythm, and as happens with pot holders, it’ll be time to bind off before you even know it!
Soft and strong with a supple hand, our Cotton Pure is the perfect yarn for this Twill Pot Holder pattern. One hundred percent organically grown, Cotton Pure is unmercerized, giving it a pleasing matte finish, and also machine washable.
We’re thrilled to introduce three new colors of Cotton Pure: Bright and lively Shiso Green, lush Hemlock Green, and the deep, cool Coastal Blue below.
So, when the heat is high, pick two favorite colors of Cotton Pure, and keep your cool with these charming little pot holders!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Hiromi Glover. Click here to see even more of Hiromi’s work!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoTwillPotHolder, and #PurlSohoCottonPure. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Purl Soho’s Cotton Pure, 100% organically grown cotton yarn. Each skein of this sport weight yarn is approximately 279 yards/ 100 grams.
- Main Color (MC): 1 skein; approximately 115 yards required. We used Heirloom White.
- Contrast Color (CC): 1 skein; approximately 105 yards required. We used Coastal Blue, Moonflower Blue, and Peach Peony.
- US 5 (3.75 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- Two US 5 double pointed needles, for I-cord and 3-Needle Bind-off
- A few yards of smooth scrap yarn and crochet hook to match
- A stitch marker
- A cable stitch holder
GAUGE
48 stitches and 54 rounds = 4 inches in stitch pattern
SIZE
Finished Dimensions: Approximately 6¾ inches square
NOTES
STITCH MULTIPLE
This pattern works over a multiple of 3 stitches plus 1.
PROVISIONAL CAST-ON
We used the Provisional Cast-On: One-Step Method to cast on our stitches, but for assistance putting live stitches back onto needles, please visit our Provisional Cast-On: A Two-Step Method Tutorial.
SLIP STITCHES
Slip all slipped stitches purlwise with yarn in back.
YARN OVERS
Work all yarn overs through the back loop as you come to them.
CARRYING UP THE YARN
For a few tips on carrying up the yarn, visit our Stripes in the Round Tutorial.
PATTERN
With scrap yarn, use a Provisional Cast-On (see Notes) to cast on 104 stitches.
Place a unique stitch marker for end of round and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Join Main Color (MC).
Set-Up Round 1: Knit to end of round.
Set-Up Round 2: *K2, yarn over (yo), repeat from * to last 2 stitches, knit into front and back (kfb) 2 times. [157 stitches]
Join Contrast Color (CC).
NOTE: In Round 1, be sure to work yo’s through the back loop as you come to them, and be sure to carry non-working yarn up inside of your work throughout. See Notes for more help.
Round 1: With CC, k1, *slip 1 (see Notes), k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 2: With CC, slip 1, *slip next (MC) stitch to cable stitch holder and hold in front, k2, slip stitch from cable stitch holder to right needle, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 3: With MC, *k2, slip 1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Round 4: With MC, *slip 2 to cable stitch holder and hold in back, slip next (CC) stitch to right needle, slip 2 stitches from cable stitch holder to left needle, k2, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Repeat Rounds 1–4 until piece measures 6½ inches from cast-on edge, ending with Round 4.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 one more time.
Cut CC.
BIND OFF TOP
Set-Up Round: Remove marker, slip slip knit (ssk), replace marker to indicate new end of round, *k1, ssk, repeat from * to end of round. [104 stitches remain]
Remove marker and fold piece in half so that needles are parallel and 52 stitches are on each needle. With a double pointed needle, bind off using a 3-Needle Bind-Off until one stitch remains on each needle; k1 from front needle, k1 from back needle. [3 stitches remain on double pointed needle]
MAKE I-CORD
With remaining 3 stitches, work an I-Cord for 3 inches, working the last row as follows…
Bind-Off Row: K1, knit 2 together (k2tog), pass first stitch over second stitch and off right needle.
Cut yarn, leaving an 8-inch tail and pull through remaining stitch.
Thread tail onto a tapestry needle. Make a loop with I-Cord and weave tail into fabric at base of I-cord, then weave it through looped I-cord, and back into fabric.
Weave in all ends from I-Cord, bound-off edge, and CC.
BIND OFF BOTTOM
Carefully unravel Provisional Cast-On and slip live stitches onto 16-inch circular needles (see Notes). Place marker. Slip 52 stitches from left needle to right needle so the marker is dividing the stitches in half, 52 stitches per tip. Turn piece so needle tips point to the right and I-Cord loop is at bottom right.
Join MC and bind off using a 3-Needle Bind-Off.
FINISHING
Weave in remaining ends and gently wet block as desired.
Learn About Cotton Pure + All Our Beautiful Yarns
As special as it is popular, our Cotton Pure brings true natural beauty to this project. 100% organically grown cotton, this sport-weight yarn feels exceptionally soft and supple in your hands, and it comes in tons of gently heathered colors you won’t find anywhere else! Making something big, like a blanket or sweater? Shop our 1,000-gram Cotton Pure On A Cone collection, too!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our vast collection of (mostly free!) Cotton Pure knitting patterns and cast on!
More Sport-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of sport-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop cotton yarn (What helps cotton keep its cool? Learn all about this soft, natural fiber in our guide to cotton yarn!)
- Shop plant-based yarn
- Shop machine-washable yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Will you please tell me how many potholders the 2 skeins make? Thanks!
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for reaching out! These 2 skeins can make 2 pot holders in total. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
If I wanted to use Tulip Cotton instead, any recommendation on how many fewer stitches I should cast on?
Hi Crystal,
Thanks for reaching out! To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest multiple of 3 + 1. Then you can follow the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili
This must be the wrong pattern! 157 stiches for a potholder?
Hi Christina,
Thanks for writing in. I can confirm that the stitch count for this pattern is correct! The stitch gauge is 48 stitches in 4 inches, which means that 157 comes to just over 13 inches. Since this pot holder is knit in the round, that distance would be the circumference, and the width of the flattened pot holder would be about 6 3/4 inches, as indicated in the SIZE section. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
157? I am reading a cast on of 104. Is there another pattern that these comments are linked to?
Thanks,
Mary
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! You will cast on 104 stitches, but then you will work increase stitches on Set-Up Round 2, which increases the stitch count to 157. The stitch count will remain at 157 for the rest of the pattern, until the Set-Up Round of the BIND OFF TOP section!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you, Lili! One more question. I am fairly proficient at crochet, but I’ve had very little knitting experience. We are in need of potholders, so I thought this might be a two-for-one value. Do you think this project is simple enough for a beginner?
You’re very welcome, Cindy! These pot holders use some fairly advanced techniques, so I wouldn’t recommend them for a beginner. But you may be interested in another, more beginner-friendly, pot holder pattern, the Double-Thick Pot Holders!
If you want to consider knitting the Twill Pot Holder in the future though, I’d recommend practicing any unfamiliar techniques on some scrap yarn. You can find tutorials linked in the pattern to everything it requires! And please don’t hesitate to reach out to us if you want advice on any of these techniques.
All the best,
Lili
I began the twill potholder. Everything was great until I got to round 2 on page 10. It says with CC slip one slip next MC stitch to cable holder. I don’t have a main color stitch on my needle. What did I do wrong. I followed the directions exactly. I’m using left over yarn to see how it looks before I purchase my yarn. A practice run before I do it in earnest. Please let me know my error. I’d like to have a potholder to show my knit group
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for reaching out! When you’re about to begin Round 2, the second stitch on your right needle should be a MC stitch. That’s because on Round 1, it was slipped, meaning that you did not knit it with the CC. Do you have any MC stitches on your needles right now?
If not, that likely means you didn’t slip those stitches when you worked Round 1. Alternatively, if you do have MC stitches on your needles, but they’re not in the correct positions, it likely means that you got off-pattern in Round 1 at some point. To solve both issues, I’d recommend undoing and redoing Round 1! If you have any questions about the instructions on that round, just let me know.
All the best,
Lili
These are beautiful, but need to know if they are flammable?
Hi Kathleen,
Thanks for reaching out about this! Cotton is a relatively flammable fiber. If you’d like to use a different type of yarn for this pattern though, then I’d recommend using a wool yarn, since wool is a lot less flammable. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Is the stitch gauge correct? 48 stitches over 4 inches?
Hi Ellen,
Yes, the stitch gauge for this pattern is 48 stitches = 4 inches in the stitch pattern! Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
When I join in the round, do I use the yarn used for the provisional cast on or do I use the MC (so that the first stitch of the set up round 1 would be with the MC)? If the later, how do I join for working in the round?
Hi Leila,
That’s a great question! Because the yarn you used for your provisional cast-on is just scrap yarn, you will not be using it for any further knitting. You will begin Set-Up Round 1 with the MC! When the pattern says “join for working in the round,” you don’t actually have to do anything special–all you need to do is begin knitting with the new yarn in the round! The tension will feel a bit loose for the first stitch or two, since the yarn isn’t anchored to anything yet, but it’ll get back to normal as you keep knitting.
All the best,
Lili
Boy- I struggled with this pattern. I finally pulled it all out and am trying to decide what to do w/ my beautiful yarn. I am an experienced knitter but this was way above my skill level. I’m thinking about working a small swatch on short double points to see if I can get the hang of the pattern before I do it on the circular needles- would this work? What would be an alternative pattern to use w/ this yarn? Any tips for me? Thank you!
Hi Andrea,
I’m so sorry to hear that this pattern has proven to be so difficult! I think that working a small swatch is the way to go, since it will help you become more comfortable with the techniques without the pressure of creating a perfect pot holder. We’re also always happy to help answer any questions you may have about the pattern, or help troubleshoot if something seems to be going wrong.
If you do decide to put this project aside and use the yarn for something else, then I’d recommend our Double-Thick Pot Holder as an alternative! This pattern was written for a worsted weight yarn, so you would need to hold the Cotton Pure double to achieve the correct gauge.
I hope this helps, but please let me know if you have any other questions or concerns!
All the best,
Lili
I’m at Round 3 and it says: With MC, *k2, slip 1, repeat from * to last stitch, K1. If I K2 with MC, my next 2 stitches on left needle are a knit stitch in CC and the slipped stitch from previous round in MC. Do I slip these two together? Seems like it will set things going in a wonky way if I just slip the one stitch in CC and then start knitting the pattern using the previous slipped stitch as the first of the 2 stitches? So confused.
JoJo
Hi JoJo,
Thanks for reaching out! Round 3 has you slip 1 stitch, so you’d only slip that CC stitch, and not the MC stitch. That MC stitch is indeed the next stitch you will knit, as part of the k2. It may seem wonky at this point, but the pattern will emerge as you continue knitting!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
I am reading through the comments looking to see if you have answered my questions already. I have completed round 3 and started round 4. It doesn’t feel right and is hard to do the knit 2 which feels very tight. Does this make sense and should I continue on or does it sound like I have made an error somewhere? I wish there was a video for the 4 rounds to confirm what I am doing. Thanks,
Wendy
Hi Wendy,
I’m sorry to hear that you’re running into some problems in your work! Would you be able to send a photo of the stitches on your needles to [email protected]? We’ll be able to better visualize what’s going on that way!
All the best,
Lili
Will do. Thanks Lili
I was going to use the butter cup cotton. Would you recommend this? Could I use it double or would that be too thick? Thanks for your help.
Hi Mary Jo,
Thanks for writing in! You can absolutely use Buttercup Cotton (as a single strand) for this pattern, and you’d just need to adjust your cast-on number so that the pot holder comes to the correct dimensions.
To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern (if this is daunting, we have a wonderful tutorial called All About Gauge). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest multiple of 3 + 1. Then you can follow the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili
In Row 4 of the main four-row repeat, do you need to slip the stitches from the cable holder back to the left needle before the k2? Can you do the k2 with the stitches directly on the cable holder?
Hi Andrew,
That’s a great question! Either method will keep the stitches in the correct orientation, so I’d recommend choosing the way that’s easiest for you. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
The notes describe knitting yo’s through the back loop on Round 1. Does this only come up during the first time you do Round 1? (Or does this come up every time you do Round 1?)
Hi Andrew,
That’s a great question! The only time you will create yarn overs in this pattern is on Set-Up Row 2, so you will only encounter these and have to knit them through the back loops is on the very first Row 1.
All the best,
Lili
Please help —
My Round 1 ends with 2 stitches in CC.
Round 2 now starts by saying: slip first CC stitch and then, according to the pattern the next stitch to be slipped should be a MC which it is not? There are 2 CC at the start of this row?
Hi Renata,
Thanks for reaching out. It sounds like you may have gotten a bit off-pattern when working Round 1! Round 1 begins with all MC stitches on your needles. You then introduce the CC and knit the very first stitch. Then, you slip the second stitch, meaning that the second stitch from the start of the round should remain a MC stitch. If you’re seeing a CC stitch here, it means that you knit it instead of slipping it! I’d recommend undoing and redoing your Round 1 so that you have the correct orientation of stitches. Then you should be able to proceed with Round 2 as written!
All the best,
Lili
It would be soooo helpful to see this pattern demonstrated in a video. Is that a possibility?
Hi Katie,
Thanks for reaching out! I’m afraid that we do not currently have the time and resources to create a tutorial on this stitch pattern. Instead, I’d recommend signing up for a 1-On-1 Project Help session, where a team member would be happy to demonstrate in real time!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili. It seems like I am having a variation of a problem other people are having. I’ve already ripped out once and started again, only to arrive at the same issue. At the end of round 3, all the stitches on my needles are MC because in round 2 the slipped stiches were MC, and those same stiches get slipped again in round 3. So I am using MC to knit the knit stiches, and the slipped stiches are MC. Here’s the problem–the instructions for round 4 say that the third stich should be CC. I cannot figure out where I am going wrong. Can you help? Thank you!
Hi Nadia,
I’m sorry to hear that you’re also running into trouble at this spot! It sounds as though you got off pattern at some point. Here are the order of stitches you should have after finishing each of the following rounds:
Set-Up Round: All MC stitches
Round 1: CC, MC, CC, CC, MC, CC, CC, MC, etc…
Round 2: CC, CC, CC, MC, CC, CC, MC, CC, CC, MC, etc…
Round 3: MC, MC, CC, MC, MC, CC, MC, MC, CC, etc…
Round 4: CC, MC, MC, CC, MC, MC, CC, MC, MC, etc…
I’d recommend beginning again and double checking your stitch colors after each round! As long as they match what I’ve written above, you’ll be on the right track.
All the best,
Lili
Hi – is it possible there is an error in the pattern? I seem to be off by one but I’ve restarted this several times.
In the setup round 2, you start by knitting two and then do a yarn over etc… Then in round 1, you knit one and then slip one (the yarn over), but based on how the setup round 2 starts, you actually end up slipping one of the first two knitted stitches and not the yarn over.
SR1 knit knit yo…
R1 knit slip…
Or am I missing something? Has anyone else noticed this?
Thanks,
Teri
Hi Teri,
I took another look over the pattern, and I can confirm that it’s correct as written! You should be slipping one of the first two knit stitches, and not the yarn over. None of the yarn overs should be slipped at all!
All the best,
Lili
HELP!! Can you explain how 104 cast on stitches is a multiple of 3 plus 1?
I’m trying to make the pattern with a larger gauge yarn and I need to decrease my cast on to 55 stitches (54 +1). However the Setup round 2 is multiples of 2, and I end up with one extra stitch. Is there a mistake because 104 isn’t a multiple of 3 + 1. Thanks a bunch for your assistance!!
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! In this pattern, the cast-on number isn’t the same as the stitch count that the stitch pattern is worked over. While you cast on 104 stitches, you almost immediately increase to 157 stitches, which is the stitch count that you’ll work the stitch pattern over, and 157 is a multiple of 3 + 1! Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Any tips for avoiding or undoing twisted up yarn? I’m finding that the unworked working yarn is constantly twisted and I can’t untwist is without twisting up the non-working color
Hi Emily,
I’m so sorry to hear that Cotton Pure is giving you trouble! Overtwisting, although frustrating, naturally happens to some yarns that are tightly spun with multiple plies going in the same direction. You may feel the urge to smooth out any irregularities in the texture before knitting each stitch, but this actually causes the twisting to build up further. I’d recommend letting the slight twists of the yarn go into your stitches as they appear. This will make a huge difference without altering the appearance of the knitted fabric! And even if you do notice some odd stitches, these will even out once you block your finished project.
All the best,
Lili
Love this potholder, love the look, the finished weight and pattern but it is definitely not for the beginner. Also if you are looking for a quick knit, not sure I would try this for the first time.
Hi Teresa,
We’re so glad that this pattern caught your eye, and thank you for sharing your thoughts! While this pattern does have some slightly more advanced techniques, we believe small projects like potholders and kitchen towels can be a great way to try out new skills.
If any of the techniques in this pattern feel daunting, we encourage you to reach out to us either by posting a comment here, sending an email to [email protected], or signing up for free 1-On-1 Project Help over Zoom. We’re always eager to help you knit this (or any of our other patterns) with confidence!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
After cast on there is 104 stitches, round two you add 1 stitch three stitches and two stitches on the last two. This adds up to 140, not 157.
Hi Kelly,
Thanks for writing in! I double checked the math, and I can confirm that the 157 stitch count is correct. You’re adding a new stitch every two stitches, so you end up adding 51 stitches plus the extra 2 at the very end, for a total of 53 stitches. This adds up to 157!
All the best,
Lili
Hello
Would it be possible to upload a video tutorial? This would be great😉
Kindest regards
Yasmin
Hi Yasmine,
Thanks for asking! I’m afraid we do not currently have plans to make a tutorial for this pattern but I will be sure to share your idea with the team!
All the best,
Gavriella
For the bind off top, I watched the 3 needle bind off video but it indicates I should have the wrong side out. Do I need to turn this inside out or is the intent to have the seam outside on the top? Also, what am I to do wit the cut CC? Ok to just leave it hanging inside? I don’t see any instructions other than “cut.”
Hi Stacey,
Great question! For this pattern, you’ll keep the right side facing outwards, and the seam should appear on the outside. You should also weave in all ends from I-Cord, bound-off edge, and CC on the inside before working the 3-needle bind-off!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili! To follow up on that, I’m binding off the bottom now. I unraveled the provisional cast-on and picked up an extra stitch so I have 104. This is where I am confused… the directions say: “Place marker. Slip 52 stitches from left needle to right needle so the marker is dividing the stitches in half, 52 stitches per tip” and then do the 3-Needle Bind-Off. Why am I doing that and not just doing the 3 needle bind-off when it seems like the piece is ready and in position to bind off? And, if that is a step I need to just do, am I slipping purl-wise?
Hi Stacy,
Those instructions are necessary to orient the bottom bind-off correctly! A 3-needle bind-off has two distinct sides–one that looks like knit v stitches, and one that looks like purl bumps. You want the bottom bind-off and the top bind-off sides to match each other, so you actually have to shift the stitches so you can begin the bottom bind-off from the opposite direction! And yes, you’ll be slipping the stitches purlwise (that’s actually the default for knitting patterns)!
All the best,
Lili
For some reason I just can’t understand this pattern. Is there a video tutorial that anyone can reference that speaks to this pattern directly, not just videos of the different stitch definitions?
Hi K P,
I’m so sorry that you’re running into trouble with this pattern! While we have not created a full tutorial for just this pattern, you’re welcome to sign up for 1-On-1 Help if you’d like more personalized help with your project. We’re also always available to answer any specific questions that come up along the way!
All the best,
Lili
Is there a video showing this project. I’ve done several of the double thick potholders and now I want to try this one, but it feels very over my head.
Hi Christina,
This is a great next project to try! While we haven’t created a tutorial on the entire pattern, we do link to many helpful tutorials on specific skills throughout the pattern. We’re also here for you if any questions come up along the way, and you can even sign up for a free 1-On-1 Help appointment if you’d like to see something demonstrated over Zoom. We hope you give this project a try!
All the best,
Lili
Though 157 is a multiple of 3 plus one. How do I calculate the cast on stitch if I want to knit a smaller pot holder, since 104 is not a multiple if 3 plus one. Please kindly explain. I love this pattern.
Thanks!
Hi Winnie,
Great question! To find out what cast-on number you need to start with, first determine what stitch count you want to work the main stitch pattern over (this is the one that needs to be a multiple of 3 + 1). Then, subtract 1 and divide that by 3. Finally, multiply the resulting number by 2, and that’ll be your cast-on number!
All the best,
Lili