Darling Hat + Hand Warmers
Our Darling Hat + Hand Warmers celebrate the arrival of our new 100% cashmere… Welcome to Nigh DK, the most special and deeply satisfying yarn we can imagine!
Nigh DK’s cashmere fiber comes from Mongolia, the source of much of the world’s finest cashmere. From the downy winter undercoat of the goats who live in the extreme temperatures of this region, cashmere is designed by nature to be lightweight and super toasty.
Once our cashmere has been gathered, spun, and dyed, we take the extra step of washing the finished yarn several times. This means Nigh DK is unbelievably soft as you’re knitting, not just after you block it. This is because we want the making to feel as good as the wearing!
For our Darling Hat + Hand Warmers, you’ll cast on with Nigh DK and follow an easy four-stitch repeat with rounds of knitting in between. A splendid combination of a relaxing and engaging knit that puts you in the perfect mindset to enjoy what’s in your hands!
Nigh DK’s exquisite quality is apparent in the soft halo that floats above the fabric’s surface, giving this understated stitch pattern a depth of beauty, while the yarn’s four even plies add distinction to subtle textures and shaping.
A light worsted weight, we love the sumptuous beauty of Nigh DK for these accessories, and for scarves, wraps, sweaters, socks, and special baby items, too. It’s thin enough to feel streamlined and elegant and thick enough to feel substantial.
Nigh DK comes in 21 lovely colors, some solid, some heathered, each glowing with its own gentle beauty.
We are thrilled to bring you Nigh DK, an amazing yarn that makes every stitch a true pleasure. Cast on for this charming set, and experience the joy for yourself!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed for Purl Soho by Lili Tobias. Lili spends most of her time knitting, listening to music, or doing both at the same time. She also happens to be our wonderful Customer Service Coordinator.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho. We can’t wait to see what you make!
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Materials
HAT
- 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Nigh DK, 100% cashmere yarn. Each skein of this light worsted/dk weight yarn is approximately 199 yards/ 55 grams; approximately 60 (85, 110, 125, 150, 185) yards required. We used the colors Pink Pearl, Petrified Wood, and Warm Cognac.
- US 4 (3.5 mm) 16-inch circular knitting needles, for Kid and Adult sizes
- A set of US 4 double pointed needles OR US 4, 32-inch or longer circular needles for Magic Loop
- Removable stitch markers, including one unique
HAND WARMERS
- 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Nigh DK, 100% cashmere yarn. Each skein of this light worsted/dk weight yarn is approximately 199 yards/ 55 grams; approximately 55 (75, 120, 150, 170, 195) yards required. We used the colors Pink Pearl, Petrified Wood, and Warm Cognac.
- A set of US 4 (3.5 mm) double pointed needles OR US 4, 32-inch or longer circular knitting needles for Magic Loop
- Stitch markers, including one unique
NOTE: To make both the hat and hand warmers, you’ll need 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s) of Nigh DK; approximately 115 (160, 230, 275, 380) yards required. For an Adult Large set, you may need an additional skein. If you don’t end up needing it, you can return unwound yarn for a refund within 30 days of purchase, or within 6 months, for store credit. Our Return Policy has all the details!
GAUGE
24 stitches and 34 rounds = 4 inches in Diamond Slip Stitch pattern (see Notes)
SIZES
HAT
Baby (Toddler, Kid, Adult Small, Adult Medium, Adult Large)
- Finished Circumference: 12 (14, 16, 18, 20, 22) inches, comfortably stretching to approximately 14–16 (16–18, 18–20, 20–22, 22–24, 24–26) inches
- Finished Height: 6¾ (7¾, 8¼, 8½, 9½, 9¾) inches with brim rolled
For help choosing a hat size, check out our complete guide on How to Knit the Right Hat Size!
HAND WARMERS
Baby (Toddler/Kid, Adult Extra Small, Adult Small, Adult Medium, Adult Large)
- Finished Circumference: 4½ (5¼, 6½, 7¼, 8, 8¾) inches, comfortably stretching up to 2 inches
- Finished Length: 6 (7½, 9¼, 10¾, 11, 11¾) inches
SAMPLES: The Pink Pearl hat is the Kid size and the hand warmers are Adult Extra Small; the Petrified Wood set is the Adult Small size; and the Warm Cognac set is the Adult Large size.
NOTE: Cashmere tends to stretch, so this pattern is designed with negative ease. This means to choose a size with a finished circumference that is smaller than the wearer’s hands. For more information about negative ease and help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial
NOTES
STITCH MULTIPLE
Stitch pattern works over a multiple of 4 stitches in the round.
SLIP STITCHES
All slip stitches are slipped purlwise with yarn in back, unless otherwise instructed.
S2KP (Slip 2, Knit 1, PSSO)
Slip 2 stitches together knitwise with yarn in back, knit 1, pass slipped stitches over knit stitch and off right needle. [2 stitches decreased]
To see a video tutorial of this technique, please visit our S2KP Tutorial.
Diamond Slip Stitch Pattern
Cast on a multiple of 4 stitches.
Rounds 1 and 2: *K3, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib; see Notes), repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 3 and 4: Knit to end of round.
Rounds 5 and 6: *K1, slip 1 wyib, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 7 and 8: Knit to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1–8 for pattern.
HAT PATTERN
BRIM + BODY
Cast on 72 (84, 96, 108, 120, 132) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Knit 6 rounds even.
Work Rounds 1–8 of Diamond Slip Stitch pattern (see Notes) 5 (6, 6, 6, 7, 7) times, then repeat Rounds 1 and 2 one more time.
CROWN
NOTE: If using shorter circular needles, change to double pointed needles when necessary.
Set-Up Round (decrease round): Remove end-of-round marker, s2kp (see Notes), place unique marker (pm) on just worked stitch for new end-of-round, k9 (11, 13, 15, 17, 19), [s2kp, pm on just worked stitch, k9 (11, 13, 15, 17, 19)] 5 times. [60 (72, 84, 96, 108, 120) stitches remain; 6 stitch markers placed]
BABY, KID, + ADULT MEDIUM ONLY
Round 1 (partial round): Knit to 1 stitch before end of round.
Round 2 (decrease round): [Remove marker, s2kp, pm on just worked stitch, k1, *slip 1 (see Notes), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marked stitch, slip 1, k1] 5 times, remove marker, s2kp, pm on just worked stitch, k1, **slip 1, k3, repeat from ** to 2 stitches before next marked stitch, slip 1, k1. [12 stitches decreased]
Round 3 (partial round): K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to 2 stitches before end of round, slip 1. [1 stitch remains before end of round]
Round 4 (decrease round): [Remove marker, s2kp, pm on just worked stitch, knit to 1 stitch before next marked stitch] 6 times, k1. [12 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rounds 1–4 zero ( – , 1 , – , 2 , – ) more time(s). [36 stitches remain]
Next Round (partial round): Repeat Round 1.
Next Round (decrease round): [Remove marker, s2kp, pm on just worked stitch, k1, slip 1, k1] 6 times. [24 stitches remain]
Next Round (partial round): Repeat Round 3.
Next Round (decrease round): [S2kp, k1] 6 times. [12 stitches remain]
TODDLER, ADULT SMALL, + ADULT LARGE ONLY
Round 1 (partial round): Knit to 1 stitch before end of round.
Round 2 (decrease round): [Remove marker, s2kp, pm on just worked stitch, k1, *slip 1 (see Notes), k3, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marked stitch, remove marker, s2kp, pm on just worked stitch, **k3, slip 1, repeat from ** to 2 stitches before next marked stitch, k1, (1 stitch remains before marked stitch)] 2 times, remove marker, s2kp, pm on just worked stitch, k1, ***slip 1, k3, repeat from *** to 1 stitch before next marked stitch, remove marker, s2kp, pm on just worked stitch, ****k3, slip 1, repeat from **** to 1 stitch before next marked stitch, k1. [12 stitches decreased]
Round 3 (partial round): K2, [*slip 1, k3, repeat from * to 4 stitches before next marked stitch, slip 1, k7, **slip 1, k3, repeat from ** to 2 stitches before next marked stitch, slip 1, k3] 2 times, ***slip 1, k3, repeat from *** to 4 stitches before next marked stitch, slip 1, k7, ****slip 1, k3, repeat from **** to 2 stitches before next marked stitch, slip 1. [1 stitch remains before end of round]
Round 4 (decrease round): [Remove marker, s2kp, pm on just worked stitch, knit to 1 stitch before next marked stitch] 6 times, k1. [12 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rounds 1–4 – (0, – , 1, – , 2) more time(s), and then repeat Rounds 1 and 2 one more time. [36 stitches remain]
Next Round (partial round): K2, [slip 1, k7, slip 1, k3] 2 times, slip 1, k7, slip 1.
Decrease Round: Repeat Round 4. [24 stitches remain]
Next Round: Repeat Round 1.
Decrease round: [S2kp, k1] 6 times. [12 stitches remain]
ALL SIZES
Cut yarn and thread tail onto a tapestry needle. Sew tail through remaining stitches.
Pull taut and bring tail to inside of hat to weave in.
FINISHING
Weave in any remaining ends and gently block as desired.
HAND WARMERS PATTERN
Cast on 28 (32, 40, 44, 48, 52) stitches and distribute as evenly as possible on three double pointed needles (or arrange on long circular needles if using Magic Loop). We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches and place marker (pm) for end of round.
Knit 2 rounds even.
Work Rounds 1–8 of Diamond Slip Stitch pattern (see Notes) 3 (4, 5, 6, 6, 6) times, then repeat Rounds 1–6 one more time.
THUMB HOLE
RIGHT HAND WARMER ONLY
Set-Up Round 1: Knit to last stitch, make 1 right (m1R), k1. [1 stitch increased]
Set-Up Round 2: K1, make 1 left (m1L), knit to end of round, remove marker. [1 stitch increased]
NOTE: You will now begin working back and forth in rows.
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib, see Notes), *k3, slip 1 wyib, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k5.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 with yarn in front (wyif), p4, *slip 1 wyif, p3, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Row 3: Slip 1 wyib, knit to end of row.
Row 4: Slip 1 wyif, purl to end of row.
Row 5: Slip 1 wyib, *k1, slip 1 wyib, k2, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 6: Slip 1 wyif, *p2, slip 1 wyif, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Row 7: Repeat Row 3.
Row 8: Repeat Row 4.
Work 0 (0, 2, 4, 6, 8) more rows of Rows 1–8.
NOTE: You will now return to working in the round.
BABY, TODDLER/KID AND ADULT LARGE ONLY
Next Round: Slip 1 wyib, *k3, slip 1 wyib, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k3, knit 2 together (k2tog), pm. [1 stitch decreased]
Next Round: Slip slip knit (ssk), *k2, slip 1 wyib, k1, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3. [1 stitch decreased]
ADULT EXTRA SMALL AND ADULT MEDIUM ONLY
Next Round: Slip 1 wyib, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 together (k2tog), pm. [1 stitch decreased]
Next Round: Slip slip knit (ssk), knit to end of round. [1 stitch decreased]
ADULT SMALL ONLY
Next Round: Slip 1 wyib, *k1, slip 1 wyib, k2, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, knit 2 together (k2tog), pm. [1 stitch decreased]
Next Round: Slip slip knit (ssk), *slip 1 wyib, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, sl 1 wyib, k2. [1 stitch decreased]
ALL SIZES
Go on to Palm section, below.
LEFT HAND WARMER ONLY
Set-Up Round 1: Remove marker, knit to last 2 stitches, m1R, k1, pm for new end of round. [1 stitch increased]
Set-Up Round 2: K1, m1L, knit to end of round, remove marker. [1 stitch increased]
NOTE: You will now begin working back and forth in rows.
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 wyib, k4, *slip 1 wyib, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, *p3, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p5.
Row 3: Slip 1 wyib, knit to end of row.
Row 4: Slip 1 wyif, purl to end of row.
Row 5: Slip 1 wyib, *k2, slip 1 wyib, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 6: Slip 1 wyif, *p1, slip 1 wyif, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Row 7: Repeat Row 3.
Row 8: Repeat Row 4.
Work 0 (0, 2, 4, 6, 8) more rows of Rows 1–8.
NOTE: You will now return to working in the round.
BABY, TODDLER/KID AND ADULT LARGE ONLY
Next Round: Slip 1 wyib, k4, *slip 1 wyib, k3, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, slip 1 wyib, k2, k2tog, pm. [1 stitch decreased]
Next Round: Ssk, *k3, slip 1 wyib, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3, remove marker, k1. [1 stitch decreased]
ADULT EXTRA SMALL AND ADULT MEDIUM SIZES ONLY
Next Round: Slip 1 wyib, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog, pm. [1 stitch decreased]
Next Round: Ssk, knit to end of round, remove marker, k1. [1 stitch decreased]
ADULT SMALL SIZE ONLY
Next Round: Slip 1 wyib, *k2, slip 1 wyib, k1, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k2, slip 1 wyib, k2tog, pm. [1 stitch decreased]
Next Round: Ssk, k1, *slip 1 wyib, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1 wyib, k1, remove marker, k1. [1 stitch decreased]
PALM
Beginning with Round 3 (3, 5, 7, 1, 3), continue in Diamond Slip Stitch pattern until piece measures approximately 6 (7½, 9¼, 10¾, 11, 11¾) inches from cast-on edge, ending with Round 4 or 8.
Bind off knitwise.
FINISHING
Weave in all ends and gently block as desired.
Learn About Nigh DK + All Our Beautiful Yarns
Cast on for one of our free knitting patterns in Nigh DK, made with the most exquisite, amazingly soft 100% Mongolian cashmere you can imagine! This DK-weight yarn has four even plies and knits into a beautiful, even fabric with a soft halo that floats above the fabric’s surface, a distinctive characteristic of fine cashmere yarns. Cast on with nearly two dozen colors for incredibly special accessories, baby gifts, and even socks! For more inspiration, explore all of our knitting patterns and all of our beautiful yarn!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our collection of (mostly free!) Nigh DK knitting patterns and cast on!
More Light Worsted/ DK-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of light worsted/DK-weight yarns (What does DK-weight yarn mean, really? Our guide to DK yarn will answer your questions and demystify.)
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop cashmere yarn (What makes cashmere so special? Learn all about this amazing fiber in our guide to cashmere yarn!)
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I was just asked to knit a hat for a gift with DK 100% alpaca yarn. I love this pattern (and nigh yarn for another hat gift) but was wondering if the alpaca would stretch similar to the beautiful cashmere you used. Should I cast on a different size? It knits up as the same gauge.
Hi Kim,
Thanks for writing in! As long as you’re getting the same gauge as the pattern, then you can follow it as written. Both cashmere and alpaca are pretty inelastic fibers, so they have a very similar amount of stretch!
All the best,
Lili
My gauge doesn’t look anything like the pattern so can I trust the measurement of it? It seems to be the right amount of stitches per inch but looks very different. Is that because the gauge isn’t knit in the round? Thank you for clarifying this for me.
Hi Dawn,
Would you. be able to send a photo of your gauge swatch to [email protected]? That way, we can better visualize what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
Yes I can do that. Thank you!
Hi,
Both the pattern and the yarn are beautiful! I don’t enjoy the feel of a rolled brim. Would a 1/2″ ribbed edge work or do you suggest something else? If so, would the # of cast on stitches be the same?
Thanks for all the great patterns!
Hi Marissa,
Thanks for reaching out, and thank you for the kind words! I would recommend working 3 x 1 ribbing at the brim. If you work the following round for about a 1/2 inch, it will blend very nicely into the beginning of the stitch pattern:
Round of Ribbing: *k1, p1, k2, repeat from * to end of round
The stitch count and everything else will remain the same. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Knitting the hand warmers and where it says to begin working back and forth in rows for the thumb hole, the first row says “right side” but one would have to start with wrong side unless you are actually knitting one more round before beginning flat- am I reading that correctly? Knit one more round then wrong side back?
Hello,
Thanks for reaching out, and that’s a great question! When switching between working in the round and working flat, like at this point in the hand warmers, the distinction between “round” and “row” gets ambiguous. We decided to go with “row” to describe Row 1 for two different reasons:
1. You’ll be on the first row of the repeated stitch pattern, so calling this Row 1 keeps that consistent. If we had called Row 2 Row 1 instead, that would probably get more confusing than necessary!
2. We’re defining a “round” as when you continue in the same direction after finishing it, rather than turning your work to move in the opposite direction. On Row 1, you turn your work, so that you can begin purling on Row 2!
As with many things in knitting, there are multiple ways of conceptualizing of them! I could totally see calling Row 1 a round and the pattern still making sense, but we decided to choose a different, but still valid, option. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Currently working on the hat and am to the crown. I’m confused on the setup round. I am familiar with the stitches but have a question concerning marker placement. When it says PM on just worked stitch, does that mean after the worked stitch or do I place a removable marker directly on the stitch.
Hi Debra,
Thanks for reaching out! You will place the removable marker on the just worked stitch right after you knit it. So right after you work the s2kp, the just worked stitch will be the very first stitch on your right needle. Just place the marker directly on that stitch, and you’ll be all set!
All the best,
Lili
This is THE OTHER BEST PATTERN EVER .. meaning most useful, classic. I will use it many times. Thank you!!
I am working on the crown of the hat and am confused. Round 1 is a “ “partial round”. I am to knit to 1 stitch before the end. What do I do with the last stitch if I don’t work it? Also on round 2, I am to knit to 3 stitches before the next marker, then slip 1 and knit 1. What happens to the remaining stitches before the markers.
Maybe I am missing something here?
Hi Georgia,
Thanks for reaching out! The final stitch of Round 1 is worked as part of the first s2kp in Round 2. This is the same thing that happens to the third stitch after the slip 1 and knit 1! It’s incorporated in the following s2kp. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I am also confused about the crown. On the adult medium, I get to three stitches before next stitch and then the instructions say slip one/knit one 5 times (over 10 stitches). That goes over the next marked stitch, correct? So I just incorporate that stitch in the slip one/knit one sequence? But that gets me nowhere close to the next stitch marker which I am now supposed to remove and then work. Please explain what I’m missing. Thanks
Hi Jessica,
Thanks for reaching out! The “5 times” actually refers to the entire set of instructions enclosed in square brackets, not just “slip 1, k1”. That means that you’ll need to repeat the entire “Remove marker, s2kp, pm on just worked stitch, k1, *slip 1 (see Notes), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marked stitch, slip 1, k1” sequence a total of 5 times. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I love this yarn and would like to knit a long scarf, as I am a beginner I’m seeking advice whether, could I adapt this pattern to straight knitting rather than on circular needles.
Hi Dani,
Thanks for reaching out! I’m afraid that this pattern is not the best choice for flat knitting, since it’s primarily stockinette. Stockinette fabric will always roll up at the edges due to the nature of how the stitches interlock with each other, and that’s not very desirable for a scarf.
If you still want to pursue your idea of using this stitch pattern for a scarf, then I’d recommend adding more of a border! You can include a symmetrical stitch (like garter stitch, ribbing, seed stitch, etc.) on all the edges, and this will help prevent them from curling at all. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lili.
I’m working on the gauge, and I might be overthinking this, but I started with 3.5 mm and that was too small, then I used 4.0 mm and that was too small, but once I start using the larger needles the pattern just doesn’t look the same cause the stitches are so much bigger. I think I’m just trying to understand why and make sure I’m doing this right! I’m using 52% Acrylic, 40% Wool, 8% Nylon, it says it’s Light/ DK. Should i use a different yarn? Thanks
Hi Olivia,
I’m sorry to hear that you’re having trouble matching the gauge for this pattern! Would you be able to send us a photo of your work at [email protected]? That way, we’ll be able to better visualize what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
I’m working on the hand warmers and have gotten to where the pattern says “you are now working back and forth in rows”. I am using the magic loop method instead of dpns. Is it possible to go to flat knitting while using magic loop? I’m a mid-level beginner and can’t figure out how to turn the work to knit flat. Help! Thanks so much.
Hi Dawn,
That’s a great question! It is definitely possible to switch between working in the round and working flat while doing magic loop–that’s actually exactly what we did to knit these samples. I find that it’s pretty tricky to conceptualize, but if you break it down into its components, it should be easy to get the hang of!
At all times, you’ll have 2 “loops” in your needles: One loop will occur at the thumb hole itself, and the other will occur directly opposite that, on the other side of the hand warmer. When you reach the end of each row of the thumb hole, you will have reached one of these loops. At this point, you turn your work so that the other side is facing you, just like you would working flat with normal needles! When you reach the other loop of the needles, the one that isn’t at the thumb hole (this will occur in the middle of each thumb hole row), you will treat that loop like you would when working normal magic loop. Then, just continue to the end of the row!
Overall, working magic loop flat entails the combination of two different treatments of the two different loops. One consistent with normal flat knitting, and the other like normal magic loop! I hope that this gives you some tools to help you move forward in your project.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lili for your reply. You helped immensely and I now have the concept and even have completed the hand warmers.
Purl Soho has been a great help in my knitting journey. I really appreciate you and the web site.
Thanks again,
Dawn Woosley
Oh you’re so welcome, Dawn! Glad to hear that you’ve finished the hand warmers. Wear them well!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, I am making the handwarmers essentially using this pattern but using a stockinette stitch (I matched my gauge to what is listed here). I am basically following the pattern by number of rows and ignoring all the diamond pattern instructions.
I am about to get to the thumbhole section and just wondering if after doing the increases when it says ” You will now begin working back and forth in rows” should I ignore the slip 1 part there in the beginning of the rows too and just do my stockinette stitching or should I slip stitches? Are the slipped stitches related to creating the thumbhole or just part of the diamond pattern?
I hope my question makes sense! Thanks for you help and your beautiful patterns and yarns!
Hi Kiran,
Great question! Actually, I’d recommend slipping the stitches at the very edge on the thumbhole. This will make sure that the thumbhole edge is nice and even! You can ignore all the other slipped stitches though, since those are for the textured stitch pattern.
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I am I’m the crown of adult small. I am so confused about round 3. Can you please explain? There are 6 markers yet only 3 are referenced.
Hi Kristin,
Absolutely! Within the square brackets, you’ll reach 2 marked stitches. You repeat the instructions within the square brackets twice, so that accounts for 4 marked stitches. Then, the remaining 2 marked stitches are reached in the portion after you finish the repeats of the bracketed instructions! Here’s Round 3 with the marked stitches highlighted:
Round 3 (partial round): K2, [*slip 1, k3, repeat from * to 4 stitches before next marked stitch, slip 1, k7, **slip 1, k3, repeat from ** to 2 stitches before next marked stitch, slip 1, k3] 2 times, ***slip 1, k3, repeat from *** to 4 stitches before next marked stitch, slip 1, k7, ****slip 1, k3, repeat from **** to 2 stitches before next marked stitch, slip 1. [1 stitch remains before end of round]
Hope this helps make things clearer!
All the best,
Lili
I have some extra Wigeon yarn. Do you think it would work for the hand warmers or does it not have enough stretch to it?
Hi Kathleen,
Thanks for writing in! You could definitely use Wigeon for this project! We always recommend doing a gauge swatch just to make sure you are happy with the fabric created and to make sure you are able to get the same sizing we have written into the pattern. Please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi again
Do you think this pattern would look nice in a cowl basically following the hat pattern but without the decreases? Would a rolled edge be okay or should I do some garter stitches?
Hi Kiran,
That sounds like a wonderful idea! I would recommend some sort of edging on a cowl version to keep the top and bottom from rolling in on each other. Garter stitch or some 2×2 ribbing should do the trick! I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
would season Alpaca work for this hat?
I have a skein left over from another project; it seems similar in wieght to the Nigh
thank you as always
patty
Hi Patty,
Thank you for writing in! Season Alpaca should work wonderfully for this pattern! Please let us know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I am studying the pattern prior to starting the Hand Warmers. It strikes me that in the NOTES section there are instructions for S2KP, yet when reading (and rereading) the Diamond Slip Stitch Pattern I am not finding a PSSO. Am I correct that the Diamond Slip Stitch Pattern for this project does NOT include any S2KP? And if not, why the instructions for that stitch in the NOTES?\
Thank you for your lovely patterns and very exciting yarns.
Hi Anita,
Thank you for writing in and that is a great question! The S2KP is used in the crown section of this pattern so you won’t need to worry about working this stitch for the hand warmers at all. I hope this helps clarify but please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Thanks so much!
Anita
I have a questions about the repeats for the hand warmers. I had almost completed the medium size of the first one but the opening for the thumb seems very large when the diamond rows are repeated 6 times. Is this correct sizing?
Hi Libby,
Thank you for asking! In this section you will only work to row 6 of the pattern instruction. So not 1-8 six times but instead to row 6 of the 1-8 repeat. I hope this helps clarify but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
I am at this same spot on the adult medium hand warmers and the pattern reads like you work 6 more rows of rows 1 – 8, which makes a huge thumb hole. Are the 6 more rows of rows 1 – 8 knit in the round, to close the thumbhole?
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for writing in! At this spot in the pattern you work 6 more rows of Rows 1-8, which means just Rows 1-6. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I’m having a bit of trouble at the crown. I have cast on 104 stitches to match the gauge with my own yarn (as instructed to cast on a multiple of 4 stitches), and I can’t figure out how to start the decrease. This stitch count falls between a kid and adult small size and no matter what I try, the numbers don’t seem to match up with the pattern. Can someone please let me know which pattern to follow or if I’m better off adding 4 extra stitches to match the 108 in the original sizing and continue from there with a slight shift in the diamond slip pattern?
Hi Tiffany,
Thank you for writing in! Although the stitch pattern is a multiple of 4, the pattern is written in multiples of 12 for the hat as a whole! I’d recommend working with the 108 stitch count on smaller needles if you are needing to size down. This way you can follow the pattern as is without having to rework the crown which can be incredibly tricky. I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any other questions along the way!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Do you or will you have patterns for women’s knee warmers? I need to use large needles.
Thank you.
Hi Judy,
I’m afraid we have not designed any patterns for knee warmers yet!
All the best,
Lili
Hi I’m working the hand warmers, knitting a size small, and have almost finished the thumb hole but it’s already very big. I’ve finished two of the four rows of repeats rows 1-8. Is the pattern written correctly? “Work 0 (0, 2, 4, 6, 8) more rows of Rows 1–8.” I read a comment above and I someone wrote to only work rows 1-6 when repeating. So confused! Please help. Thanks!
Hi Abby,
Thanks for writing in! For the Adult Small size, you work through Rows 1 – 8 once, and then you work 4 more rows of Rows 1 – 8. That means you just work Rows 1 – 4 again, since those are the first 4 rows of Rows 1 – 8!
All the best,
Lili
Hi there! I’m having some difficulties in this same area – two questions regarding this, if I just do rows 1-8 3 times instead of 4, will that mess up the pattern? Because if so that will probably be where my issue lies. But if not, when I’m transitioning from the thumb hole the last row that includes the diamond pattern slips is: Row 6: Slip 1 wyif, *p2, slip 1 wyif, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
and then the next time I do the slip row in the finishing section before the palm it’s Slip 1 wyib, *k1, slip 1 wyib, k2, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, knit 2 together (k2tog), pm. [1 stitch decreased]
this is putting the diamond slip pattern in the same spot, so i’m not getting the staggering effect. hopefully this makes sense, thanks in advance! 🙂
Hi Jen,
Thanks for writing in! If you repeat the full 8 rows three times, then your thumb hole will end up very long and the hand warmer won’t fit correctly. Can you please let me know which size you’re working on? Then I can help clarify exactly what rows you need to work for the thumb hole!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili, thanks for your reply! I’m working on the size small, so as I’m reading it I need to do the full 8 rows 4 times, which of course was looking very long which is why I went down to 3 – but I must be getting something wrong here. Beautiful pattern by the way!!
Hi Jen,
Thanks for letting me know! For the Adult Small size, you work through Rows 1 – 8 once, and then you work 4 more rows of Rows 1 – 8. That means that after you complete Rows 1 – 8 just one time, then you work only Rows 1 – 4 again, since those are the first 4 rows of Rows 1 – 8! Once you do this, the stitch pattern will line up correctly when you continue the palm.
All the best,
Lili
Oh I see! Thank you so so much!
Take care 🙂
Hi,
This is my first time knitting something for hands and I was wondering if it’s possible to add thumbs to the hand warmers. I wanted to keep everything the same but wanted to add thumbs to keep my thumbs warm instead of having just a hole. Any suggestions in how I could do that?
Thank you!
Hi Cathy,
You could absolutely add a thumb to these! I would recommend picking up stitches evenly around the thumb hole edge, and then knitting each round until it reaches your desired length. You could even add some short rows on the lower side to tilt the thumb upwards so that it fits a bit better!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
I’m still learning about knitting so I’m not sure what you mean by “adding short rows on the lower side to tilt the thumb upwards”. Could you explain how I could do that? Would this be after picking up the stitches around the thumb hole edge?
Thank you so much!
Hi Cathy,
The reason I recommended that is so that you can shape the thumb in the direction that your thumb actually points (since it probably doesn’t point straight outwards from your hand)! Once you pick up stitches around the thumb hole, you can work short rows along the bottom edge of the thumb to add more height to the fabric there, which will then allow the thumb to point more upwards than outwards.
All the best,
Lili
I’m currently knitting an adult small version of the hand warmers. I’ve reached the section “you will now begin working back and forth in rows”. I’m confused as to what that means and how to achieve that when I currently have my work on there DPNS.
Hi Mia,
Thanks for writing in! At that point in the pattern you will switch from working in the round to working flat so that you create a gap in the knit fabric for the thumb hole. You can work flat on DPNs just as you would on regular needles! All you need to do is turn your work at the end of each row, rather than continuing in the same direction as you have been doing in the round. I hope this helps clarify things, but if you’re interested in seeing a demonstration, then I would recommend signing up for 1-On-1 Help!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
Do you think the Simply Yak yarn would work for this hat project?
Hi Jeanine,
Simply Yak would be a wonderful choice! It’s the same weight as Nigh DK, so it’ll be easy to achieve the gauge of the pattern. I’d just recommend carefully swatching since you may need to size your needles up or down to meet the gauge!
All the best,
Lili
I love the look of this pattern, but am wondering how to do it for a scarf or a baby blanket – is there a knit flat pattern available?
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for writing in! We haven’t designed a pattern with this stitch that’s knit completely flat yet, but you can find instructions for that in the THUMB HOLE section of the hand warmers since that part is knit flat. I’ll paste those rows below for quick reference, and they work over any multiple of 4 + 2 stitches:
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib, see Notes), *k3, slip 1 wyib, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k5.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 with yarn in front (wyif), p4, *slip 1 wyif, p3, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Row 3: Slip 1 wyib, knit to end of row.
Row 4: Slip 1 wyif, purl to end of row.
Row 5: Slip 1 wyib, *k1, slip 1 wyib, k2, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 6: Slip 1 wyif, *p2, slip 1 wyif, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Row 7: Repeat Row 3.
Row 8: Repeat Row 4.
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili