Reversible Cross-Collar Cowl
Every stitch of your Reversible Cross-Collar Cowl will be full of anticipation. You’ll be excited to finish and wear this beautiful, versatile piece (or gift it to someone very special), but you’ll also look forward to the knitting ahead… Simple stitches with a color change for extra fun, a light-worsted-weight yarn that feels just right in your hands, and all of it in our exceptionally soft Nigh DK cashmere. It’s going to be amazing!
This smart design is, remarkably, just a simple rectangle. You start with one color, work stockinette stitch for 8 inches, then switch to your second color and do the same.
The clever part is one fold and two simple seams, both of which we explain step-by-step with a photo tutorial. Amazingly, in the end, you have a super lovely, super cozy cowl that you can wear with either color on the outside!
The magnificent beauty of our Nigh DK complements the easy elegance of this cowl. It’s made of exquisite, 100% Mongolian cashmere, a fiber that comes from the downy undercoat of goats, designed by nature to be extremely soft, feather-light, and very, very warm.
Nigh DK’s four plies knit into a smooth fabric with a delicate cashmere-halo that floats above the surface, a truly extraordinary yarn to knit and to wear!
Dive into Nigh DK’s gorgeous palette and pick two colors you love… You only need one of each for this beautiful knit, and we hope you enjoy every stitch in this very special yarn!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Gianna Mueller. Click here to see even more of Gianna’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoReversibleCrossCollarCowl, and #PurlSohoNighDK. We can’t wait to see what you make!
P.S. You can find our beautiful Nigh DK right here!
Materials
- 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Nigh DK, 100% Cashmere yarn. Each skein of this light worsted/dk weight yarn is 199 yards/ 55 grams
- Color A: 1 skein; approximately 170 yards required
- Color B: 1 skein; approximately 170 yards required
- US 6 (4 mm), 24-inch circular needles
Samples: We used Pink Pearl + Morning Sky, Raindrop Blue + Sugar Maple, and Ocean Storm + Warm Cognac for our cowls.
You can also choose from one of our 10 beautiful Reversible Cross-Collar Cowl Bundles (no longer available) pictured below!
GAUGE
20 stitches and 31 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, blocked
SIZE
- Finished Neck Opening: approximately 18 inches circumference, comfortably stretching an additional 5 inches
- Finished Height from Point: 10 inches
NOTES
SLIP STITCHES
Slip all stitches purlwise with yarn in front.
PATTERN
BEGIN
With Color B, cast on 111 stitches. We used a basic Long-Tail Cast On.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Purl to last 3 stitches, slip 1 (see Notes), k1, slip 1.
Row 1 (right side): K1, slip 1, knit to end of row.
Row 2: Purl to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k1, slip 1.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures approximately 8 inches, ending with Row 2.
Cut Color B, and join Color A.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures approximately 16 inches, ending with Row 2.
With right side facing you, bind off knitwise, leaving a 2-foot tail.
ASSEMBLE
Orient rectangle with wrong side facing up and Color A at top. Fold piece in half so bind off and cast on edges are aligned at the bottom and right side of Color A is facing you. Using Mattress Stitch and 2-foot tail, seam together the two vertical edges on the right side of the folded rectangle (you will know you’re seaming the right edge if it doesn’t have the slipped-stitch selvage).
Once edge is seamed, turn piece over so that right side of Color B is facing up and seamed edge is on the left side, as shown above.
Fold right and left sides down towards the center of the piece, and align seamed edge with the top folded edge of the right side.
With a new length of Color A and starting at the bottom of the seamed edge, insert needle through bind-off edge from bottom to top, then through first stitch at selvage edge, again from bottom to top.
Locate the little bars of Color A that make up the seam of the left edge. Skip a bar on the left edge, insert your needle below the second bar and pull it through.
Then insert needle underneath both legs of the next Color A stitch on the folded edge, from bottom to top.
Repeat these two steps, working into every other bar on the left side and every stitch on the right folded side, until you have worked all the bars.
Insert needle through end of mattress stitch seam on left edge and pull tail through to weave in.
Finish
Weave in all ends and gently wet block.
Learn About Nigh DK + All Our Beautiful Yarns
Cast on for one of our free knitting patterns in Nigh DK, made with the most exquisite, amazingly soft 100% Mongolian cashmere you can imagine! This DK-weight yarn has four even plies and knits into a beautiful, even fabric with a soft halo that floats above the fabric’s surface, a distinctive characteristic of fine cashmere yarns. Cast on with nearly two dozen colors for incredibly special accessories, baby gifts, and even socks! For more inspiration, explore all of our knitting patterns and all of our beautiful yarn!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our collection of (mostly free!) Nigh DK knitting patterns and cast on!
More Light Worsted/ DK-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of light worsted/DK-weight yarns (What does DK-weight yarn mean, really? Our guide to DK yarn will answer your questions and demystify.)
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop cashmere yarn (What makes cashmere so special? Learn all about this amazing fiber in our guide to cashmere yarn!)
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Can I knit this with single pointed needles? Thank you!
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing in! I’m afraid that straight needles wouldn’t be the best choice for this pattern. The length of the stitches you’ll have on your needles at any given point is about 22 inches, which would be difficult to maneuver on typical straight needles. The stitches would be very bunched up and at risk of falling off. If you use 24-inch circular needles though (still working flat, not in the round), then the stitches have room to breathe!
All the best,
Lili
Why is the first color used called B and the second A? Does is matter which color I start with? If I plan to wear it mainly with one color on the outside do I need to start with a certain color? In other words, what’s the difference between A and B.
Hi Sophie,
Thanks for writing in! This cowl is completely reversible, so you can use any colors you want for A and B. We specified the colors we used in our sample so people could follow along, but it doesn’t really matter!
All the best,
Lili
I love your free patterns. But when I print them – there are 15 pages!!!!!! could you please have a condensed version. I do’t want to waste so much paper.
Hi Daniela,
Thanks for writing in! Here’s how to get a printer-friendly version of any of our free patterns: If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, just click on the “Print” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window!
All the best,
Lili
Question: In the instructions side A is 8 inches and sie B is 16 inches. However, in the diagram where you fold over to seam the vertical side, it appears as if side A and B are both the same length. Am I missing something 😕 🤔?
Hi Diann,
Thanks for reaching out! Both the Color A section and the Color B section are 8 inches tall. When you consider the height of both of them together, that adds up to 16 inches. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I want to buy the bundle for the reversible cowl. But I want the different colors than shown. I think I am a little confused. Sorry.
Hi Kathleen,
Thanks for writing in! To purchase other colors, you can buy individual skeins of Nigh DK. It’ll add up to the same price!
All the best,
Lili
Color A section and the Color B section are 8 inches tall. When you consider the height of both of them together, that adds up to 16 inches. This is very clear! But how long ?? In other words, how many inches with 111 stitches?
Thank you!
Elena
Hi Elena,
Thanks for reaching out! Based on the gauge of the pattern (20 stitches and 31 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, blocked), 111 stitches is equivalent to 22.2 inches. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I love your patterns, am going to try the Cross Collar Cowl but would like to up the size a bit for a larger neck opening. What number of stitches would I add to adjust the neck opening to 22″.
Thanks!
Hi Vi,
Thanks for reaching out. To increase the neck opening to 22 inches, you will need to increase your cast-on length by 4 inches! Based on the gauge of 20 stitches in 4 inches, you would need to add 20 stitches to the cast-on, for a total of 131 stitches. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Curious about how to size down for fingering weight yarn–any advice?
Thank you!
Mimi
Hi Mimi,
Thanks for reaching out. In order to use a fingering weight yarn for this pattern, you’ll need to change the number of stitches you cast on so that the cowl comes to the correct width. To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest whole number. Then you can follow the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili
I’ve gotten to the point where I’m finished knitting and ready to assemble. But of course since this is a big stockinette rectangle, it’s curling all over the place. In your pictures, everything is beautifully flat. How did you achieve that? Some sort of blocking technique? A flat piece would certainly be easier to stitch.
This yarn is GREAT to work with, by the way. I may buy another kit.
Hi Mij,
Thanks for reaching out! Wet blocking will absolutely make the knit fabric lie more flat. I’d recommend trying that out, and it should me much easier to seam afterwards. Let me know how it goes, and I’m so glad to hear that you love working with Nigh DK!
All the best,
Lili
Hello- I believe when you are connecting the seamed edge to the folded edge, you are working with a strand of color A (not B) and grabbing the bars of color A (not B)…Is this correct or am I missing something from the pics? Thanks
Hi Kelly,
Thanks for reaching out! You’re correct, you should be seaming these edges with Color A, not Color B. We’ve updated the pattern to reflect this, and thank you again for bringing this to our attention!
All the best,
Lili
Lovely yarn and have enjoyed this pattern but I must be missing something obvious but when sewing the final side to finish cowl is color B. The top color is pink and that is the main color which I thought was A color. Is the mattress stitch just picking up the main top color? I didn’t do it correctly because the reverse side showed the yarn from the other side. I feel like I am missing something and making something simple complicated. Hope you can help. Thank you
Hi Marty,
Thanks for reaching out! You’re correct, you should be seaming these edges with Color A, not Color B. We’ve updated the pattern to reflect this, and we’re so sorry for the confusion. Thank you again for bringing this to our attention!
All the best,
Lili
I also found the need to use the mattress stitch on both sides I thought it would pull it in enough for both sides. I don’t know if I was doing it incorrectly or that is what you must do. Again thank you. Got yarn to do another a relaxing pattern and soothing working with the lovely cashmere!!
I’ve just finished this knitting pattern and started on the “Assemble” section but the cowl seems way too small. I have 16” long (8” of each color) and it’s only 20” wide leaving the opening feeling really small like I wouldn’t be able to get it over my head. How much width does the wet blocking part add? Any advice (other than pulling it all out and starting over)?
Hi Jane,
Thank you for your question! After knitting your cowl without assembling it, your rectangular piece should measure 22 inches wide by 16 inches tall. I recommend wet-blocking your triangle and pinning it down as it dries to ensure it dries to the correct dimensions! I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
hi,
question – before assembling – my piece measures about 18 inches in lenght and 8 inches in height….
when i fold it to assemble – the hole for the head to slip through is way to small to fit.
i used 4mm needles and casted on the 111 stiches – gauge was correct as well.
where is the problem?
H
Hi Hannelore,
Thank you for writing in! It sounds like your gauge is off just by a little causing the finished piece to be too tight. With the pattern gauge of 20sts per 4″, your piece should measure approximately 22 inches instead of 18. I would recommend giving your finished piece a good block and pinning the fabric as close to the finished dimensions as possible, allowing it to fully dry before assembling the cowl. I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi, I am interested in making this cowl with Plein Air. Since they are both similar DK weights, can I keep the same pattern above for the Nigh DK? Thank you!
Hi Nadia,
You can definitely follow the pattern as is while using Plein Air!
Happy making,
Gavriella
I’m having some trouble with the wrong side rows and the slip, knit, slip. It led to unevenness on that edge and I ended up having to undo it and start over. Because the yarn is in front from the last slip of the WS, when I do the first knit of the RS the yarn is starting off in the wrong position, which causes the issue. The directions say slip purlwise with yarn in front—is that correct? Thank you!
Hi Nadia,
Yes, you should be slipping the yarn in front! After you slip the stitch, just bring your yarn back between your needles before knitting the next stitch. It’s actually the same exact thing you’d do when switching between knit and purl stitches!
Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I am ready to assemble the reversible cowl and I am hesitant to sew the edges with the mattress stitch with the wrong sides up. Won’t that create an unsightly seam on the right side of the fabric? I am afraid that the cowl will no longer be reversible even though I sew that seam to the folded edge in the next step.
Hi Anita,
Thanks for writing in! In this case, mattress stitch will not create a seam on one side. As long as you follow the steps shown in the photo tutorial, the cowl will end up completely reversible! I’d recommend giving these steps a try, but if the seam doesn’t come out as expected, feel free to send a photo of your work to [email protected], and we can take a closer look!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! My ends are quite curly, I am thinking of wet blocking this before assembly to help with that, and so it lays flat before assembly. Is it better to wait until it’s assembled? Thanks!
Hi Adrian,
You can definitely block before you seam! Either way is fine, but as you mention, blocking beforehand will help make seaming easier.
All the best,
Lili
Can you suggest an equivalent yarn for this project, and how much of it would I need?
Hi Josette,
Thank you for writing in! Any of our DK weight yarns would work great for this pattern. You will use the same amount per color as the pattern as well. So Color A: approximately 170 yards required and Color B: approximately 170 yards required!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi, I have Nigh in: Morning Sky, Snail Pink, Golden Ochre and Sorrell Green. What pairings would you recommend, please? Thanks!
Hi LJB,
Thanks for writing in! Here are some color pairings that I really like for the ones you already have:
Morning Sky + Ocean Storm
Pink Snail + Sweet Mint
Golden Ochre + Yew Green
Sorrel Green + Warm Cognac
Let me know what you think!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili, I’m sorry I wasn’t clear. How would you pair the four colours that I have with each other?
Thanks!
Ah, thanks for clarifying!! I would do the following pairings:
Pink Snail + Sorrel Green
Morning Sky + Golden Ochre
All the best,
Lili
Can a provisional cast on be used to hold live stitches for seaming at the end? rather than fighting with the curled stockinette edges? just like to have options
gorgeous yarn, can’t wait to start!
thanks, D
Hi Donna,
Thanks for writing in! I’m afraid that a provisional cast-on will not be useful for this pattern since you won’t need to seam the cast-on edge at all. The seamed edges are vertical edges (which you’ll use mattress stitch for), and then a folded vertical edge seamed to a folded horizontal edge. To minimize the curling at the edges, I’d recommend blocking your project before seaming to make that step easier!
All the best,
Lili
I just finished this lovely cowl, do you have a suggestion for a matching two-tone hat with nigh dk?
Hi Megan,
Thanks for writing in! I think that the Reversible Hat would match very nicely. You’ll just need to make a few modifications to the pattern to ensure that it works with a thicker yarn like Nigh DK.
First, you will want to knit a gauge swatch in pattern (or just use your gauge measurement from the Cross-Collar Cowl). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the finished circumference of whichever size you’re making, and round the resulting number to the nearest multiple of 9. Keep this number in mind, because this is the number of stitches you will want to increase to in the increase portion of the Color A section. Other than that, you can follow the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili