Watch Cap + Mitts
Watch Caps are the traditional choice of people who stand guard over ships, outposts, lighthouses, and other cold, lonely places. Who to trust on the question of warm and toasty more than those hearty souls?
A ribbed head-topper with a rolled-up cuff and a snug fit, a Watch Cap meets all our needs: cozy, snug, and good looking, too!
In this case, more is more, and so, we added matching hand warmers and mittens to the mix, all sized for the whole family!
There’s more. See how incredibly soft and toasty these pieces look? The lovely halo glowing off the surface of the yarn? The depth and richness of the fiber? That’s our new Simply Yak!
One hundred percent yak and one thousand percent beautiful, Simply Yak is combed from the soft and insulating undercoat of the majestic yak. Exactly as they grew it, Simply Yak comes in one color: rich, undyed Natural Brown… Gorgeous and very special, too!
Designed for Purl Soho by Jake Canton.
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoWatchCapAndMitts, and #PurlSohoSimplyYak. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
Hat
- 1 (2, 2, 3) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Simply Yak, 100% yak. Each skein is 109 yards and 50 grams; approximately 109 (160, 218, 300) yards required. We used the color Natural Brown.
- US 3 (3.25 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 3 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
Hand Warmers or Mittens
- Hand Warmers: 1 (1, 2, 2) skein(s) of Simply Yak, 100% yak. Each skein is 109 yards and 50 grams; approximately 70 (90, 130, 160) yards required.
- Mittens: 1 (1, 2, 2) skein(s) of Simply Yak. Each skein is 109 yards and 50 grams; approximately 80 (100, 145, 180) yards required.
- A set of US 3 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holder or scrap yarn
NOTE: To make a Hat and Hand Warmers or Mittens set, you’ll need 2 (3, 4, 5) skeins.
Gauge
40 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in 2×2 rib, unstretched
22 stitches and 30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
Hat
Baby/Toddler (Kid, Adult Small, Adult Large)
To fit head circumference of 14-16 (18-20, 21-23, 24-26) inches
- Finished Circumference: 12 (14, 16, 18) inches, unstretched
- Finished Height: 8¼ (9¾, 11¼, 12¾), uncuffed
Hand Warmers + Mittens
Toddler (Kid, Adult Small, Adult Large)
To fit palm circumference of 4½-5¼ (5½-6¼, 6½-7¼, 7¾-8¾) inches
- Finished Circumference At Wrist: 3½ (4½, 5¼, 6) inches unstretched
- Finished Circumference At Palm: 4 (4¾, 5½, 6½) inches, unstretched
- Hand Warmer’s Finished Length From Cuff To End: 5¾ (6, 7½, 8) inches
- Mitten’s Finished Length From Cuff To End: 6¼ (6¾, 8½, 9¼)
Samples: For all our samples we made the Adult Small size.
Notes
M1Lp (make one purlwise left): Pick up the strand between the previous and next stitch from front to back (as you would to m1L), purl through the back loop. [1 stitch increased]
M1Rp (make one purlwise right): Pick up the strand between the previous and next stitch from back to front (as you would to m1R), purl through the front loop. [1 stitch increased]
For a video demonstrating how to work this technique, please visit our Make One Purlwise Tutorial.
Hat Pattern
Cuff + Body
Cast 120 (140, 160, 180) stitches onto circular needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place unique marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Round 1: *P2, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 5½ (6½, 7½, 8½) inches from cast-on edge.
Crown
NOTE: Change to double pointed needles when necessary.
Set-Up Round: *[P2, k2] 6 (7, 8, 9) times, place marker, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 1: [*P2, k2, repeat from * to 4 stitches before next marker, p1, k2tog, k1, slip marker] 5 times. [5 stitches decreased]
Round 2: [*P2, k2, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1] 5 times [5 stitches decreased]
Round 3: [*P2, k2, repeat from * to 6 stitches before next marker, p2, k1, k2tog, k1] 5 times. [5 stitches decreased]
Round 4: [*P2, k2, repeat from * to 5 stitches before next marker, p2, k2tog, k1] 5 times. [5 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rounds 1-4 four (5, 6, 7) more times. [20 stitches remain]
Next Round: *P1, k2tog, k1, repeat from * to end of round. [15 stitches remain]
Next Round: *K2tog, k1, repeat from * to end of round. [10 stitches remain]
Cut yarn and thread tail onto a tapestry needle. Thread tail through remaining stitches.
Pull taut and bring tail to inside of hat and weave in.
Weave in any remaining ends and gently block.
Hand Warmers + Mittens Pattern
Cuff
Cast 36 (44, 52, 60) stitches onto four double pointed needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Evenly distribute stitches, place unique marker, and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Round 1: *P2, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Hand Warmers Only
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 2½ (2½, 3, 3) inches from cast-on edge.
Mittens Only
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 1 (1, 1½, 1½) inches from cast-on edge.
Gusset: Hand Warmers + Mittens
Set-Up Round: [P2, k2] 1 (1, 2, 2) time(s), place marker (pm), [p2, k2] 6 (8, 8, 10), p2, pm, [k2, p2] 1 (1, 2, 2) time(s), k2.
Round 1: *P2, k2, repeat from * to next marker, slip marker (sm), make 1 left (m1L), **p2, k2, repeat from ** to 2 stitches before marker, p2, make 1 right (m1R), sm, ***k2, p2, repeat from *** to last 2 stitches, k2. [2 stitches increased]
Round 2: *P2, k2, repeat from * to next marker, sm, m1L, k1, **p2, k2, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before next marker, p2, k1, m1R, sm, ***k2, p2, repeat from *** to last 2 stitches, k2. [2 stitches increased]
Round 3: *P2, k2, repeat from * to next marker, sm, m1Lp (see Notes), **k2, p2, repeat from ** to 2 stitches before next marker, k2, m1Rp (see Notes), sm, ***k2, p2, repeat from *** to last 2 stitches, k2. [2 stitches increased]
Round 4: *P2, k2, repeat from * to next marker, sm, m1Lp, p1, **k2, p2, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before next marker, k2, p1, m1Rp, sm, ***k2, p2, repeat from *** to last 2 stitches, k2. [2 stitches increased]
Round 5: *P2, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1-5 one (1, 2, 2) more time(s). [52 (60, 76, 84) stitches]
Thumb Hole
Set-Up Round: [P2, k2] 1 (1, 2, 2) time(s), remove marker, p1, slip previous 5 (5, 9, 9) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn, p1, *k2, p2, repeat from * to 4 stitches before next marker, k2, p1, slip remaining 7 (7, 11, 11) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn. [40 (48, 56, 64) stitches remain]
Palm
Replace unique marker and resume working in the round with stitches divided evenly on four needles.
Round 1: P1, *k2, p2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k2, p1.
Hand Warmers Only
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 1¾ (2, 2½, 3) inches from Thumb Hole, or until desired Palm length.
Bind off in stitch pattern.
Go on to Thumb section, below.
Mittens Only
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 2¾ (3, 3½, 4) inches from Thumb Hole, or until desired Palm length.
Top Of Mitten
Set-Up Round: P1, [k2, p2] 4 (5, 6, 7) times, k2, p1, pm, p1, [k2, p2] 4 (5, 6, 7) times, k2, p1.
Round 1: [P1, k1, slip slip knit (ssk), p1, *k2, p2, repeat from * to 7 stitches before next marker, k2, p1, k2tog, k1, p1] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]
Round 2: [P1, k1, ssk, *k2, p2, repeat from * to 6 stitches before next marker, k2, k2tog, k1, p1] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]
Round 3: [P1, k1, ssk, k1, *p2, k2, repeat from * to 7 stitches before next marker, p2, k1, k2tog, k1, p1] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]
Round 4: [P1, k1, ssk, *p2, k2, repeat from * to 6 stitches before next marker, p2, k2tog, k1, p1] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rounds 1-4 zero (0, 1, 1) more time(s), then Rounds 1 and 2 zero (1, 0, 1) more time(s). [24 stitches remain]
Round 5: [P1, k1, ssk, p1, k2, p1, k2tog, k1, p1] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased; 20 stitches remain]
Round 6: [P1, k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1, p1] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased; 16 stitches remain]
Round 7: [P1, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, p1] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased; 12 stitches remain]
Slip remaining 12 stitches onto 2 needles, first 6 stitches on one needle and last 6 stitches on another.
Use Kitchener Stitch to graft Mitten Top closed.
Thumb
Place 12 (12, 20, 20) on-hold Thumb stitches onto 4 double pointed needles. [3 (3, 5, 5) stitches on each needle]
With right side facing you and beginning with right-most Thumb stitch, join yarn.
Round 1: P1, *k2, p2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k2, p1.
Hand Warmers
Repeat Round 1 until Thumb measures 1 (1, 1¼, 1½) inches.
Bind off in stitch pattern.
Go on to Finishing section, below.
Mittens
Repeat Round 1 until Thumb measures 1½ (1½, 2, 2½) inches.
Round 2: P1, k1, ssk, p1, [k2, p2] 0 (0, 2, 2) times, k2, p1, k2tog, k1, p1. [2 stitches decreased; 10 (10, 18, 18) stitches remain]
Round 3: P1, k1, ssk, [k2, p2] 0 (0, 2, 2) times, k2, k2tog, k1, p1. [2 stitches decreased; 8 (8, 16, 16) stitches remain]
Toddler and Kid sizes move on to the All Sizes section, below.
Adult Small + Adult Large Sizes Only
Round 4: P1, k1, ssk, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1, k2tog, k1, p1. [2 stitches decreased; 14 stitches remain]
Round 5: P1, k1, ssk, p2, k2, p2, k2tog, k1, p1. [2 stitches decreased; 12 stitches remain]
Round 6: P1, k1, ssk, p1, k2, p1, k2tog, k1, p1. [2 stitches decreased; 10 stitches remain]
Round 7: P1, k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1, p1. [2 stitches decreased; 8 stitches remain]
All Sizes
Cut yarn and thread tail onto a tapestry needle. Thread tail through remaining stitches.
Pull taught and bring tail to inside of mitten to weave in.
Finishing
Use Thumb tail to seam holes between Palm and Thumb.
Weave in remaining ends and wet block.
Hi,
This pattern looks great. I really wanted to make a hat like this in gray. Do you think that I could substitute Line Weight for the Simply Yak? It looks to be a very similar weight.
I appreciate it!
Lisa
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! We are so excited to introduce this pattern and I am so glad to hear that you like it! Our Simply Yak is a light worsted/dk weight so Line weight would be a bit too thin for this pattern since it is a fingering weight. Instead I would recommend Cashmere Merino Bloom, Good Wool, Understory or even Flax Down! These should all work up to a similar gauge but I do recommend working a gauge swatch with whichever yarn you choose to insure your gauge is consistent with the pattern
Please let us know how this turns out, happy knitting!
Gianna
I have been wanting to knit a hat for myself from Alpaca to replace a store bought hat that I just loved. It was starting to get worn and my dog stole it and buried it somewhere! Is yak similar to alpaca in drape and texture? Can I wear this hat uncuffed as in some of the photos. Does that pattern need to be adjusted for that?
Hi Beth,
Thanks for reaching out! Alpaca and Yak are a bit different but equally soft and lovely! Yak has a bit more shape to it as alpaca is very drapy, but still al lovely drape and texture! the pattern is designer to be worn both cuffed and uncuffed so no need to adjust the pattern!
All the best,
Gianna
I’ve never made mittens. Is there a video illustrating setting up and knitting with 4 double pointed needles?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for reaching out! We have an excellent Double Pointed Needles tutorial that shows how to set up and use them!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Would I be able to knit this hat or the Burrow hat with Posy yarn?
Hi Joan,
Thanks for reaching out! Posy is a fingering weight yarn so it would be a bit too fine for either of these pattern on its own unless you adjusted the gauge, cast on and worked with a smaller needle size!
All the best,
Gianna
please send me pattern for yak hat and mitts.
thank you. Mimi
Hi Mimi,
Thanks for reaching out! This pattern is a free download so you can print it out at home by following the instructions on the page! If you do not have access to a printer, when you purchase the yarn you can add in the “Special Instructions” section in check out that you would like the pattern printed and we will mail it with your order!
All the best,
Gianna
Is anyone else aware that if you P2 K2 on 180 stitches for the hat and try to join the stitches you end up with 4 pearls instead of 2 pearls and 2 knit stitches? Perhaps I miscounted but I don’t think so…
Hi Celia,
Thanks for reaching out! we haven’t had that problem before so you shouldn’t end up with 4 purls together at the end, if you work the first row and still end up with 4 together please let us know!
All the best,
Gianna
No Gianna, I went back and checked my work and it was my mistake! Old eyes and small needles are not always compatible 😉 Thanks!
Hi Celia,
Thanks for writing in again! I am glad it all worked out!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Can you please tell me the finished measurement of the adult small hat?
Hi Laurie,
Thanks for reaching out! The finished circumference of the Adult Small hat is 16″ un-stretched!
All the best,
Gianna
Started knitting the largest size hat and it looks gigantic. The person I’m making it for has a 24.5” head circumference but this looks even larger than that… should I power through? Will it scrunch up after a few inches?
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for reaching out! Did you check your gauge prior to beginning? It could be that your gauge is off and the hat is coming out bigger than the pattern suggest! The hat wont scrunch up any, it will actually be more stretchy due to the rib stitch!
All the best,
Gianna
No I didn’t do a gauge swatch- but I am using the Simply Yak and size 3 needles. I think I’m just going to start over and make the adult small and hope for the best!
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for writing in again! I would recommend measuring your gauge before ripping out your work and double check it so you are aware starting the hat over!
All the best,
Gianna
I am on the third row, and mine is also way too big. I’m going to rip out and go down a hat size.
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! Did you check your gauge prior to beginning the hat? I know it seems like something minor but it can definitely change the sizing of the hat if its off!
All the best,
Gianna
Gianna, For the first cast-on, I could tell it was going to be too big. I cast on again for a smaller size. Now that I am more than 4″ into the project, I measure the unstretched rib at 32 sts/4″. The project gauge is supposed to be 40 sts/4″. The fabric is pretty and the size works for me, but I do wonder if I had gone down a needle size if I would have liked a more dense fabric. Thank you for reminding us to always check gauge.
Hi, this is my first attempt at mittens and I need a little help with the thumb part. When you say join yarn with right side facing you what does that mean? Are you supposed to start with the inside of the thumb hole or the outside? My guess is that you join the yarn at the middle of the thumb closest to the mitten and start working around from the back but I’m a little confused because I don’t know what the right side means. Thanks in advance! As always, love your patterns!
Hi Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! Right side means the right side of the mitten facing you and then you start by picking up the right-most thumb stitch (closest to the mitten!)
I hope this clarifies things, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi – I made this wonderful hat for my husband. Washed and blocked. Now it’s all stretched out! Yikes! If I wash in HOT water will it return to desired size? what about a quick turn in the dryer?.I made adult large. Bought extra yarn for the mitts but may have to make another in a smaller size. What to do?
Hi Casey,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend trying to re-block the hat again being careful not to over stretch it and gently try to shape it back into the desired width before attempting to shrink the hat since that can be a risky process! I recommend checking out our Blocking tutorial, it is an excellent resource to use!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello!
I am trying to decide how long to make the palm for the mittens. How many inches does the top of the mitten measure for the adult large? How would you recommend deciding what length to do for the palm?
Abigaile
Hi Abigaile,
Thanks for reaching out! For the Adult Small we recommend 3½ inches from Thumb Hole for the length of the palm! The Finished circumference at the palm should be 5½ inches unstretched and the finished length of the Mittens should be 8½ inches from the cuff to the end!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I’m using a merino wool yarn I purchased from another shop, and cast on 120 stitches, but they basically take up the entire length of the 16″ circular needles. There’s no way I can get 160 on there, which is the size I need for an adult small. Is this normal?
Hi Christine,
Thanks for reaching out! What weigh is the yarn you are using? This pattern is written for a light worsted/dk weight and 160 should fit on a 16″ circular needle no problem. My best guess is that your yarn is a heavier weight and thats why there is not enough room. I recommend working a gauge swatch first and comparing the gauge to the pattern. You can then either make some adjustments to the pattern or select a different pattern that may be more appropriate for your yarn!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’m knitting the hat in an adult small right now with the flax down. I’m something of a beginning knitter but it still looks gorgeous.
However, I just realized, about 5 inches into the hat, I’ve always started each round w/ k2 p2, instead of p2k2. Is this going to mess up the top of the hat?! Any way to fix it?! I can’t imagine starting over.
Hi Anna,
Thanks for reaching out! This is okay for the moment but will cause some issue for the top shaping! If you don’t want to start over with the right stitch placement then I would suggest simply moving the end of round stitch marker over so that the round starts with the p2! This will insure that the decreases work as written and you wont need to make any adjustments to the pattern.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Wow, so simple. Thank you! Will it look weird bc I did it wrong? I was entertaining the idea of following the crown pattern for the Lovely Ribbed Hat since that is K2P2 and has a cast on of 160 stitches (like the hat I am working on).
Hi Anna,
It shouldn’t look weird at all and the pattern will work as written! You could also use the Lovely Ribbed Hat pattern if you would like to keep the marker as is, however the decreases overall are not the same between the two hats so they will end up looking quite different (I myself prefer the look of the decrease shaping in the Watch Cap pattern!)
Please let me know how this turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello! I am excited to make this cap using Cashmere Merino Bloom as suggested above as a good yarn alternative for the Yak. I noticed that the Classic Ribbed Hat in Bloom uses the same size needles and seems to be the 1×1 rib version of this 2×2 rib cap. However, the Classic casts on 120 stitches for an Adult Medium, but 120 stitches is cast on here for the baby/toddler size. Are the Yak and Bloom that different? Any recommendations as to where to lean with casting on (I am lazy and trying to avoid a gauge swatch haha!) Thank you!
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for reaching out! The Cashmere is a little bit denser than the Yak, but I think the difference in the number of stitches cast on has more to do with the 1×1 rib vs. the 2×2 rib. The 2×2 rib has a gauge of 40 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in 2×2 rib unstretched, whereas the 1×1 has a gauge of 32 stitches and 33 rows = 4 inches in 1×1 rib unstretched. If you’re planning to knit the Watch Cap, I’d lean toward the size recommendations in that pattern, rather than those in the Classic Ribbed Hat.
I know it delays your start time for the project, but because you’ll be substituting yarns I would recommend knitting up a little gauge swatch just to make sure you’re on track for the pattern. Speaking from personal experience, there are few things as frustrating as finishing a project only to discover it’s too big or too small because my gauge was a bit off!
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
Take care,
Kelsey
I don’t mean to be picky, but I am. My apologies in advance.
It would make sorting out this pattern set so much easier if everything related to the hat were all together, then the same for all the hand warmers, mitts, etc. as individual pieces.
Thank you for your time and attention to my comment.
MJ, the SKEINdinavian
Hi MJ,
Thanks for reaching out and sharing your thoughts! I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
Received a gift of yak for the watch cap. Made it for my son, who loved the yarn after he read about it.
He had purchased 2 different kits ,for me for my birthday and Christmas from purl soho. I started with the watch cap which wasn’t new to me. From the beginning my experience told me it was soft and to shapeless to make this hat. Over the last 3 months it has grown to the point he cannot wear it. My gauge was perfect when I made it, now it’s substantially to loose and wide. My question to you …….. what are my option with this overstretched hat?
Hi Lise,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend re-blocking the hat, this will give you the opportunity to reshape and refit it. Whenever I experience stretching with my knitting, re-blocking is always my go to method to get back to the original shape.
I would suggest checking out our Blocking tutorial, it is an excellent resource to use!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Hi, I made this hat for my husband and I absolutely love it! It is so soft and I have enough yarn to make another for myself. My only issue is that it fits a bit loose. It’s not too loose but I’d like mine to be a bit tighter. Should I use a smaller needle or stitch with more tension? My hats always come out to loose is this something about hand knit hats or am I doing something wrong. My gauge is correct. I did not block the hat though. Don’t really know how. In the past I have washed and dried hats ( synthetic yarn) and they do not tighten up. I have never knit with yak (or any natural fibers other then cotton or bamboo) prior to this and I don’t really know how to handle it.
Also, this yarn is so soft and nice that I’d like to make a throw with it. Do you have a good throw pattern that would work with this yarn?
Hi Mary Jane,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so glad to hear that you both are enjoying your hats! Yak is a much softer fiber than wool, because of this, it has a bit more of a slouchy effect when worn. So if your gauge is accurate then you are on the right track, but to achieve a tighter fit I would suggest going down a size for the hat overall, or you could go down in needle size! Blocking can also help maintain shape, for tips on that I would suggest checking out our wonderful Blocking tutorial!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Hello – thanks so much for the pattern. I’m making the small adult size with 160 sts. After doing the crown decreases I end up with 6 repeats x 20 sts dec each repeat = 120 sts so 40 sts remaining – not 20 sts remaining as the pattern indicates. Hopefully I have read something wrong but I thought I should bring it to your attention. I’ll just do one more repeat and it should work out to 10 sts remaining before I close the top.
Hi Andy,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you may have missed one repeat of the decrease rows! The pattern instructs you to “Repeat Rounds 1-4 four (5, 6, 7) more times. [20 stitches remain]”, so for the Adult Small you should have worked 7 repeats total instead of 6. I hope this helps clear things up!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hello,
I am new to your website and I am really enjoying it. I am also new-ish to knitting so forgive the very basic nature of my question. The instructions say to switch to double pointed needles when necessary, would that be when the number of stitches becomes to few to work with the circular needles?
Many thanks,
Joni
Hi Joni,
Thanks for writing in. You’ll actually be able to feel when you’re getting close to the point at which you’ll need to switch to DPNs! The stitches will feel a bit stretched across the length of the circular cord. I usually find that I reach this point by the second or third round of decreases in the crown of the hat, but this will vary based on the yarn and pattern! Hope this helps.
All the best,
Lili
Just wondering . . . how does the yak give up its soft, insulating undercoat? Not easily I imagine, if it’s still alive.
Hi Dodi,
Thanks for writing in! Sustainability and the ethical treatment of animals are very important to us, and I’d be happy to give you some more information on our Simply Yak so that you can feel as confident about it as we do!
Our Simply Yak yarn is made in Peru and is Fair Trade Certified. The yaks mainly live in pastures, and some in barns, where they can live freely and have very little contact with humans. Every animal has about 300-500gr of fine undercoat, and once a year (in spring when they naturally lose their winter hide) the fine undercoat is combed off the animal to collect the fiber, so the fiber is not being shorn.
I hope this alleviates any concerns and assures you that the animals are not being harmed in the process of collecting the fibers we use to create this beautiful yarn!
Please let me know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi! I’m been following you all forever and love your products & posts. Is there anyway to download and print the pattern without all the pics and extra pages? I would so appreciate it if that were possible. Thanks so much. Connie
Hi Connie,
Thanks for reaching out! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop-down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
I hope this helps!
Gianna
Hi,
I am doing top of mitten decrease round 1,
There is a ssk which is one decrease, and before marker k2tog and after marker K2tog. It says 4 decreased. Am I reading this wrong? Or do they mean, after k2tog do it two more times rather than two times all together.
Thanks
Hi Grace,
Thanks for reaching out. On this round, you’ll need to repeat all of the instructions within the brackets a second time! It may be easier to visualize this round fully written out:
Round 1: P1, k1, ssk, p1, *k2, p2, repeat from * to 7 stitches before next marker, k2, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, p1, k1, ssk, p1, *k2, p2, repeat from * to 7 stitches before next marker, k2, p1, k2tog, k1, p1 [4 stitches decreased]
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hello
So I am confused at the crown decreases. I did the set up row fine. My confusion comes when it says do the what is is the brackets 5 times. I have 10 marked sections after the set up row. Are you only decreasing on the first 5 sections.
Hi Debbie,
Thanks for your question! After the set up round for the crown you should have only added 5 markers so that you have 6 markers total including your beinign of round. The Set-Up round reads as follows: *[P2, k2] 6 (7, 8, 9) times, place marker, repeat from * to end of round. So for example, if you are making the smallest size you will (p2, k2) 6 times before placing a marker, and no matter what size hat you are making, you will end up with 6 markers total.
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hello Carley
Thank you so much for getting back to me so quickly. I figured out my mistake. Counted the purl knit stitches incorrectly (ugh). Had to tink back 2 rows but I am good now. Wonderful pattern.
You’re very welcome, Debbie, and I’m so happy to hear that your Watch Cap is back on track!
Please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Carly