Pasture Pullover
Our Pasture Pullover knits up into a cocoon of warmth… Soft and cozy, understated and down to earth.
Knit from the top down with raglan shoulder shaping and a straightforward construction, our Pasture Pullover clears away complications in favor of natural beauty and casual ease.
The ribbed details that run through this piece, like fences between open fields, give this project its distinctive details, as well as its pastoral name.
We knit up our Pasture Pullover in our Cashmere Merino Bloom, a nuanced and beautiful blend of extra fine merino wool and cashmere. In the color Lilac Quartz, the whole gorgeous sweep of this sweater glows like heather moorland!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Adam Aronowitz.
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoPasturePullover, and #PurlSohoCashmereMerinoBloom. We can’t wait to see what you make!
MATERIALS
- 5 (5, 6, 7) (7, 8, 8, 9) skeins of Purl Soho’s Cashmere Merino Bloom, 75% merino wool and 25% cashmere. Each skein of this light worsted/DK yarn is approximately 218 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1010 (1090, 1235, 1325) (1460, 1600, 1745, 1880) yards required. We used the color Lilac Quartz (NOTE: this color is no longer available).
- US 5 (3.75 mm), 20-inch circular needles
- US 5, 32- or 40-inch circular needles (depending on size you are making)
- A set of US 5 double pointed needles
- US 6 (4 mm), 24-inch circular needles
- US 6, 32- or 40-inch circular needles (depending on size you are making)
- A set of US 6 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- Please Note: The Pasture Pullover pattern is no longer available for purchase. For assistance, please contact us at customerservice@purlsoho.com.
GAUGE
20 stitches and 30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on larger needles
SIZES
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
37¼ (41¼, 46, 49¼) (53¼, 58, 62, 66)
To fit actual chest circumference of 30–33 (34–37, 38–41, 42–45) (46–49, 50–54, 55–58, 59–62) inches, with approximately 4–7 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 37¼ (41¼, 46, 49¼) (53¼, 58, 62, 66) inches
- Finished Sleeve Length From Underarm: 17 inches
Sample: The sweater pictured here is size 41¼, worn with 6 inches of ease.
PATTERN
NOTE: The Pasture Pullover is no longer available for purchase.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I tried to purchase this pattern, however your site would not recognize my email account. I would still love to purchase this pattern.
Hi Pat,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m sorry to hear that you are having technical difficulties with purchasing our patterns! Please contact us at [email protected] and we will be happy to help you out!
Best,
Julianna
Is it possible to knit pasture pullover pattern as a crewneck rather than the lowered neckline shown, and if yes, can you explain how to do this?
Thanks.
Hi Fran,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have instructions for knitting a higher neckline on the Pasture Pullover – I’m so sorry about that! You may be interested in our Sweatshirt Sweater, which would work quite well in Cashmere Merino Bloom and has a traditional crew neckline.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
why not add the cowl pattern to go along with it.
good luck
Hi Michal,
Thanks for reaching out and for the suggestion! I will be sure to pass your interest in a matching cowl along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi
What a beautiful pattern. Is it possible to knit it in Line Weight?
Thanks
Hi Cynthia,
Thanks so much for the kind words! Unfortunately Line Weight is much lighter weight than Cashmere Merino Bloom so it would not work as a single strand; however, you may be able to get the correct gauge by using Line Weight held double! I would suggest knitting a gauge swatch to see if it will knit up to the gauge called for in the pattern.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi!
I am wondering if you could recommend a couple of yarn options? I am craving a darker brown sweater but love this pattern. Thank you!
Hi Julie,
Thanks so much for the kind words! I would suggest using Good Wool as it knits up to about the same gauge as Cashmere Merino Bloom and comes in several lovely dark browns!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
i c’è qualcosa che non mi torna alla fine della pag 3;
“In questa sezione tornerete a lav in tondo mentre continuate a fare gli aum dei raglan ..” direi che gli aumenti li avevamo già finiti.,
Si imposterà anche la sezione a coste al centro del davanti .. anche questo già fatto.,?
Quando sarà necessario passare ai ferri da 89-100 cm. .
Hi Maria,
Thanks for writing in! By the end of page 3, yes, you should be done with the yoke increases and have the ribbing stitches established and will be ready to continue with the body of the sweater. If you are knitting one of the smaller sizes and your stitches fit comfortably on the 32 inch or 89 cm needle, there is no need to switch to a 4 inch or 100 cm needle; however, if your stitches are too squished on the needle, you can switch to the 100 cm needle whenever you need to.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Questo che non ho capito è il passaggio alla fine della pag 3:
Si separano le maniche e si aggiungono le m ai sottomanica per poi continuare a lav in tondo…
CAST ON FOR UNDERARMS
Turn work so wrong side is facing you, cable cast on 5 (7, 9, 9) (11, 13, 13, 13) stitches onto left-hand needle for Left Underarm, place unique marker for new end of round, cable cast on 5 (7, 9, 9) (11, 13, 13, 13) more stitches for Left Underarm; turn work so right side is facing you and working across Back stitches, [k1, p1] 2 times, knit to last 4 stitches of Back, [p1, k1] 2 times; turn work so wrong side is facing you, cable cast on 5 (7, 9, 9) (11, 13, 13, 13) stitches onto left-hand needle for Right Underarm, pm for Right Side, cable cast on 5 (7, 9, 9) (11, 13, 13, 13) more stitches for Right Underarm; turn work so right side is facing you and working across Front stitches, [k1, p1] 2 times, knit to next marker, sm,
In this section you will return to knitting in the round “while continuing raglan shaping”..Perchè si continuano gli aumenti? Attendo Grazie .
Hi Maria,
I think I have figured out where the confusion is coming from! The description of this section, which reads “NOTE: In this section you will return to knitting in the round while continuing raglan shaping. You will also establish rib pattern at Center Front. When necessary, switch to larger 32- or 40-inch circular needles,” should be located in a sidebar, not in the main pattern, and is simply describing what is happening in the “Yoke” section. I am not sure why it is showing up as part of the pattern in your view – is it possible that you are using a translation software that may have moved this note to the wrong spot?
Either way, you are done with the raglan increases at this point! You can disregard the note and move on to the “Continue Body” section of the pattern.
Best,
Julianna
I’m shaping the neckline. I just finished working Short Row 1, but it only got me half way around the piece when the pattern tells me to wrap and turn (and presumably move on to Short Row2). Is this correct? Am I supposed to work the series of short rows on only half of the piece? Thanks in advance for any clarification you can provide. This pattern and the Cashmere Merino Bloom is so beautiful — I don’t want to mess it up?
Hi Marcia,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, it sounds like you are working this step correctly! The short rows add height to the back of the neckline, so they will not wrap all the way around to the front.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi! Is the neckline, shape neckline and yoke knit with the size 5 needles? Pattern not clear. I know body is knit with size 6 and cuffs and hem should be with 5s.
Hello Susan,
Thank you for reaching out! For this pullover you will knit the neckline with US5 needles and then switch to your US6 24-inch circular needles when you get to “shape neckline.”
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
It does. Thank you!
I am knitting this project using Understory instead of Cashmere Bloom, and so far, it looks great. Your instructions are nicely laid out; however, the directions for the yoke short rows and increases were a little confusing. If I had a suggestion, it would be to use numbered stitch markers to delineate each sleeve, the front and the back (and maybe include a schematic of the yoke set-up). I did this for myself — the visual provided an overview of the top-down construction, and the numbered stitch markers helped me keep track of increases in conjunction with short rows. Quibbles aside, I love this pattern.
Hi Maya,
Thanks so much for reaching out and sharing that great tip! I’m happy to hear that you are enjoying the sweater so far, and I’ll be sure to pass your suggestion along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
I posted a diagram on Ravelry, if you’re interested. Mine is the only project listed with pictures/notes (named Understoried Pasture).
Hi, I have a couple questions. I bought this pattern especially because of the scooped neckline. I have knit a test yoke (to practice the lifted increases and wrapped turns and pick-ups) with some leftover dk yarn, size 6 and 7 needles which gave me the gauge required, following instructions for the smallest size. The ribbed neck is just slightly larger than a crew neck, nowhere near the appearance in the photos. I notice that the next size up casts on the same number of stitches, so to increase the cast-on edge I would have to go up at least two sizes. That would make a very large sweater and I am relatively small. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks.
Hi Christina,
Thanks for reaching out! Rather than trying to increase how many stitches you cast on, since that would create quite a lot of difficulty re-working the yoke, I would first try making sure you are casting on as loosely as possible by casting on with a needle one or two sizes larger than your ribbing needle. You may even want to try a Tubular Cast-On – it can be a bit tricky, but it creates a really lovely stretchy beginning for 1×1 rib that should open up the neckline quite a bit. Loosening up the cast on will not only improve the initial fit of the neck, but will also make it easier to block the neckline into even more of a scoop if you wish!
Best of luck, and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you! I will try the tubular cast on — also recently came across the Chinese waitress cast on which also seems stretchy. I do normally use a straight needle for casting on (rather than circular which I find harder to manage), so will go a size larger. Love the look of this sweater and the top-down construction works perfectly since I am somewhat short-armed and short-waisted.
hi, I have a question regarding the Short Row 3 instruction on this pattern. I know how to knit RLI/LLI and wrap-t.
But I’m confused on “….knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1, wrap-t.”. What does it mean?
Your help will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Pat
Hi Pat,
Thanks for reaching out! This means that, when you come to the stitch that was the wrap and turn from the previous short row, you will be knitting the wrap together with the stitch to prevent a hole. You can see how to do this in our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn tutorial!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I purchased this pattern and look forward to knitting this beautiful sweater. I could not find the materials and gauge listed on the pattern and so printed that information from the website. What did I miss?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for reaching out! We are sorry to hear this! All of this information appears on the last page of the PDF pattern.
I hope that this helps!
Casst
I would love to knit this pattern but do not want such a wide neckline. Can I increase the neck ribbing and by how much and still maintain the the integrity of the pattern? I know you suggested to some one else that they knit the sweatshirt pattern instead but I really like this pattern.
Hi Dawn,
Thanks for writing in! Due to the short row construction of this neckline, it would be quite difficult to cast on fewer stitches or otherwise make the neckline higher. You could try casting on and working the neckline ribbing using a needle one or two sizes smaller than called for in the pattern to tighten things up just a bit, but I would definitely recommend trying on the sweater when you are at least halfway through the yoke to make sure this gives you the desired effect!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am on the Short row 5 and where it says to knit to 5 stitches before the next marker,RLI, K1, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, my wrapped stitch is the fifth stitch. Can you tell me where I have gone wrong?
Hi Dawn,
Thanks for reaching out! For short row 5 you should K1, LLI, *knit to 5 stitches before next marker, RLI, k1, [p1, k1] 2 times, sm, [k1, p1] 2 times, k1, LLI, repeat from * 1 more time, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, RLI, k1, purl wrapped stitch
with its wrap, k1, wrp-t. [150 (150, 154, 158) (158, 162, 166, 170) ] If your wrapped stitch is not in the place it should be then in the previous row you probably didn’t wrap and turn in the correct place. In situations like this when each row has fairly complex instructions, I recommend writing out each step and crossing them out as you go to keep everything in order!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
What do the dashes mean in the instructions for the setup round of the worked ribbed hem, for example: K-(8, 10, 10)(-,-,14,-). Does that mean it should be the same as the number before? Should the knit stitches for the 53 1/4 size also be 10?
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! When a dash appears in the pattern in place of your size it means you omit this step and since this set up section is for Sizes 41 1⁄4, 46, 49 1⁄4, AND 62 ONLY, they are the only sizes with instructions in this section. So if you are making the 53 1/4 size you skip this section entirely and move down to the next portion of the pattern where it says All Sizes.
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello, is this sweater seamless or does it require stitching together pieces? Thanks.
Hi Alison,
Thanks for reaching out! This sweater is knit from the top down seamlessly and does not require you to stitch the pieces together!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi,
I’ve reached the Shape Neckline and the pattern says to switch to larger, size 6, 24 inch needles. However, the next rows are short rows so all the stitches would not be transferred to the size 6 needle. I’d be going back and forth between size 5 and 6 needles.
Should a last neckline row be knit on the larger needles or should the stitches just be moved to larger needles without working before starting the short rows? Or have I missed something? Appreciate any guidance you can give. Thanks.
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! So you will begin the neck with the US 5, 20-inch needle, one you finish that section you will then begin the Shape Neckline section by starting to knit with the US 6, 24-inch needle! I would recommend switching to then 6 by repeating one more round of round 1 before beginning the short rows. You will then use the 6 for the rest of that section!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
This looks like a lovely sweater! Can you recommend some alternative yarns for summer?
Thank you!
Hi DeAnna,
Thanks for reaching out! I’d be happy to suggest an alternative for those warmer months!
I’d recommend using our Morning yarn for this particular sweater. Morning is the same gauge as our Cashmere Merino Bloom, which the sweater was designed for, but it’s made from a blend of organically grown cotton and yak, so it will offer more breathability while still looking and feeling wonderful!
As always, we recommend working up a gauge swatch before beginning your sweater, to ensure that you’re using the appropriate needles to get the gauge called for in the pattern, and this is particularly important when substituting yarns! Our tutorial All About Gauge is a great resource, if you need a refresher on gauge!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hi Kelsey! Thanks for the suggestion. Would Flax Down be another suitable alternative?
Thank you!
DeAnna
Hi DeAnna,
Thanks for your response! Flax Down would also be a great option for this pullover! Another wonderful option would be Understory!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
I have reached Short row 1. when it says repeat from *1 more times, k6, wrp-t do you slip marker and knit these stitches from Back’ or do you knit these 6 stitches from sleeve ? (knit to 5 stitches before next marker, RL1
Hi Kay,
Thanks for reaching out! The 6 stitches you knit in this short row end up being on the sleeve. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I have reached short row 5 and I’m confused about how to do the wrap and turns for the stitches in the ribbing sections by the shoulders. Should I wrap and turn according to right side ( knit) or wrong side (purl) or according to what the next stitch is after the work is turned?
In other words, if I wrap and turn at the end of a “wrong” side (mostly purl side) and the yarn after the turn is now in position to knit, but the next stitch on the “knit/right” side is a purl (to keep the rib pattern) will the wrap work? or should I have wrapped in such a way that the yarn would be on the other side ready to purl that first stitch after the turn?
I hope this question makes sense.
Thanks so much!!
Hi Susan,
Thank you for writing in! It sounds like you may have mixed up your knit and purl wrap and turns. If your wrapped stitch is in the wrong place then in the previous row you might have mixed up the location of a previous W & T. In situations like this when each row has fairly complex instructions, we recommend writing out each step and crossing them out as you go to keep everything in order! You could also use removable stitch markers to place at your wrap and turns making them a little easier to see and identify. I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella