Value Study Scarf
Our Value Study Scarf is like a record of the ways sunlight and breeze skim the landscape, gentle shifts across a meadow or the sea, a beach or the desert.
The effect is created every 14 inches when the un-dyed shades of Sweetgrass move from light to dark against a single-color backdrop of Linen Quill. The two yarns alternate in simple one-row stripes: Sweetgrass’s tidy spin of organic cotton and superfine alpaca meets the windswept, bright beauty of Linen Quill.
All in garter stitch, each row of alternating color interlocks with the one above and below it, creating a fabric that almost looks more woven than knit.
To get started on yours, choose your favorite Linen Quill color, like this pretty Eggshell Blue, and add one skein each of our five Sweetgrass colors. Whatever the color, dive in, gaze across, and admire this lovely scarf’s understated manner of persuasion… A real natural!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Jake Canton. Click here to see even more of Jake’s designs!
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoValueStudyScarf, #PurlSohoLinenQuill, and #PurlSohoSweetgrass. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
Our Value Study Scarf Bundle includes the yarn you need to make the Wide version of this scarf (NOTE: The Value Study Scarf Bundle is no longer available)…
- Yarn A: 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca and 15% linen. Each skein of this fingering weight yarn is 439 yards; approximately 643 total yards required. We used Eggshell Blue.
- Yarns B-F: 5 skeins of Purl Soho’s Sweetgrass, 65% organic cotton and 35% superfine alpaca. Each skein of this fingering weight yarn is 437 yards; approximately 146 total yards required. The colors of Yarns B-F are…
- Yarn B: 1 skein of Heirloom White
- Yarn C: 1 skein of Pale Sesame
- Yarn D: 1 skein of Buckwheat Beige
- Yarn E: 1 skein of Rye Flour
- Yarn F: 1 skein of Walnut Shell
NOTE: For the Narrow version, pick up one skein of Linen Quill, plus the five colors of Sweetgrass listed above.
You will also need…
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 20- or 24-inch circular needles
NOTE: Although you’ll knit this scarf flat, you’ll need to be able to knit stitches from both ends of the needles, which is why circular needles are required.
Gauge
24 stitches and 52 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
Sizes
Narrow (Wide)
Finished Dimensions: 9 (15) inches wide x 70 inches long
Notes
Slip Stitches
Slip all slipped stitches purlwise.
Turn + Slide
When you work the Two-Color Garter Stitch Pattern, you either “slide” or “turn” the work at the end of each row.
“Turn work” means to do what you would normally do when knitting rows with circular needles: Transfer the needle from your left hand into your right hand and the needle from your right hand into your left, flipping the work around so the opposite side is facing you.
“Slide work” means to keep the same side of the work facing you and to push all the stitches to the right end of the circular needles. Without turning the work, start the new row as you normally would.
You will know that you’re doing this right if the yarn you need to complete the next row is right there waiting for you!
Two-Color Garter Stitch Pattern
Row 1 (wrong side): Slip 1 with Yarn A and B in front; with Yarn A, knit to last stitch, slip 1 with yarn in front. Slide Work (see Turn + Slide, above).
Row 2 (wrong side): With Yarn B, purl to end of row. Turn work (see above).
Row 3 (right side): Slip 1 with Yarn A and B in back; with Yarn A, purl to last stitch, slip 1 with yarn in back. Slide work.
Row 4 (right side): With Yarn B, knit to end of row. Turn work.
NOTE: When working Rows 1 and 3, Yarn A wraps around the selvage edge.
Pattern
With Yarn B, cast on 54 (90) stitches.
Join Yarn A and with Yarns A and B, repeat Rows 1-4 of Two-Color Garter Stitch Pattern (see Notes) until piece measures 14 inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 4.
Cut Yarn B.
Join Yarn C and with Yarns A and C, repeat Rows 1-4 of Two-Color Garter Stitch Pattern for 14 inches, ending with Row 4.
Cut Yarn C.
Join Yarn D and with Yarns A and D, repeat Rows 1-4 of Two-Color Garter Stitch Pattern for 14 inches, ending with Row 4.
Cut Yarn D.
Join Yarn E and with Yarns A and E, repeat Rows 1-4 of Two-Color Garter Stitch Pattern for 14 inches, ending with Row 4.
Cut Yarn E.
Join Yarn F and with Yarns A and F, repeat Rows 1-4 of Two-Color Garter Stitch Pattern for 14 inches, ending with Row 4.
Cut Yarn A.
With Yarn F and right side facing you, loosely bind off knitwise.
Weave in ends and block as desired.
Learn About Sweetgrass + All Our Beautiful Yarns
Sweetgrass brings true natural beauty to this project! A mix of 65% organic cotton and 35% superfine alpaca, Sweetgrass comes in 6 undyed colors, each one reflecting the color of the alpacas who grew the fiber… Amazing! And when that alpaca fiber is mixed with creamy white cotton, you get a soft and lovely heathered quality that adds depth and fascination to the yarn. A fingering-weight yarn, Sweetgrass is absolutely beautiful for three-season scarves, sweaters, and sweet hats, or double it for super cabin-y blankets. At 437 yards per skein, you’ll go far with just a few skeins!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our inspiring collection of (mostly free!) Sweetgrass knitting patterns and cast on!
More Fingering-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of fingering-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop cotton yarn
- Shop alpaca yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Ohhh, lovely! Probably above my current skill level, perhaps there will be a video with the pattern how to’s?
Hi Valerie,
Thank you so much for the kind words! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources at the moment to do a video tutorial of this pattern; however, if you can knit and purl, I’m sure you could knit this lovely scarf! It really is quite beginner friendly, so I encourage you to find a few colors of scrap yarn and try the pattern out in a swatch. If you run into any questions, we are always here to help!
Best,
Julianna
You give the finished size of the Value Study Scarf (above), it says 9″ wide, and in parentheses (15)” wide, and both are 70″ long. Do you have to buy more yarn to get the finished size of 15″ wide?
thank you,
Victoria
Hi Victoria,
Great question! For the larger size, you will need 2 skeins of Linen Quill but all of the other amounts will remain the same!
Best,
Cassy
Hi – I love the look but I think you need to check the yardage requirements for Yarn A in the pattern. If I’m reading this right, for each of the 5 tonal yarns you need an equal amount of Yarn A. So if you need 102 (146) of each of Yarns B-F you need at least 510 (730) yards total of Yarn A not 439 (643). You need a little more of B and F for the cast on and bind off but I expect that’s in the margin of error.
It seems from the yardage that you would have enough of the tonal yarns to make multiple garments said the aunt thinking of possible Christmas presents for several nieces. Tough part will be figuring out which of the beautiful colors to choose.
Thanks for inspiration.
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to clarify! This project takes less overall yardage of the Linen Quill than the Sweetgrass. We have double checked the yardage amounts against the sample and pattern and they are correct as written here. Please know that we do include about a 10% bumper to account for slight differences in personal gauge.
With the tonals, you will have quite a bit left over! With that in mind, you can purchase additional skeins of Linen Quill and make more than one scarf or wrap or you can work a different project with the left over Sweetgrass!
Best,
Cassy
Hi! This scarf looks lovely! When reading the quantities of wool needed for the wide version: it seems like there will be quite a lot of leftover “Sweetgress” yarn in each colour (B to F)? If this is so I think I would order more Linen Quill yarn so as to make another scarf. Thanks!
Hi Caroline,
Absolutely! There will be a good amount of Sweetgrass left over! You can certainly purchase more Linen Quill and make an additional wrap or you could use the remaining yarn to make a totally different project! Sweetgrass is lovely to work with and any of our fingering weight projects could work well with your remaining yardage!
Best,
Cassy
When you make this with Kettle Black Linen Quill, does the darkest color of Sweetgrass still register as distinct? In other words does that section just seem black? THANKS!
Hi Mary Ellen,
Great question! Linen Quill in Kettle Black is quite a bit darker than Sweetgrass in Walnut Shell, so you will still have a subtle striped effect in that section.
Best,
Julianna
Just wow! And I am UTTERLY intrigued by what the Kettle Black bundle would look like! This is just so beautiful, and really a nice, different, surprise. Again, wow!
Lovely design. Any chance you can show resulting samples with different colored linen quills?
Hello Shanti,
Thank you for reaching out and for the great suggestion! I will certainly pass it along.
Happy knitting,
Marilla
This scarf looks amazing, i would love to see even just swatches made up in the other color ways as i have a poor imagination hehehe
Hi Dani,
Thanks so much for the kind words! I’ll be sure to pass your suggestion along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Which size is shown on the model?
Hi Barb,
Great question! Our sample is the wide scarf.
Best,
Julianna
Lovely pattern! Wise construction! Thank you
I have a question for you: since a neat selvage is important, I am working on a swatch before I start the real thing. The way I see it, I believe that in row 3 yarn A has to be in front, right before the slipped (last) stitch; this way, when the work is turned to begin row 4, yarn A will be wrapped around the selvage end. Otherwise, wrapping is not possible. Am I missing something?
PS to the last comment: I mean to begin row 1, when work is turned after row 4.
Hello Anthi,
Thank you for reaching out and for your kind words! This can be a bit confusing at first. Because you have slipped your stitch with your yarn in back in row 3 it does mean that when you begin row 1 your yarn A will be in the front. BUT to knit your second stitch that is when your yarn will wrap your selvedge edge.
I hope this makes sense and let us know if you have any further questions!
Best,
Marilla
Thank you Marilla!
the way I understand it is that, while in row 3 color A yarn, being in the back, is wrapped around the edge/selvage, in row 1, being in the front, is wrapped around the slipped first stich. Am I right?
Anyway, I had already started my project when I received your answer -too excited about it- and the selvage comes out different but ok with slipped stitch in the back in row 3, as consistency matters.
A suggestion that I would have to make is to cast on loosely or use a needle size above the one used for knitting (I used 3.5 mm for casting on and 3 mm for knitting).
Hi Anthi,
Yes, it does sound like you have it figured out – the yarn will wrap around the outside of the slipped stitch on rows 1 and 3, but if you are already slipping in a different way, I would just continue so the edges look the same for the rest of the scarf! It is not unusual to have to cast on with a slightly bigger needle, but it’s good to keep in mind for those of us who tend to cast on tightly, so thanks for the tip!
Best,
Julianna
So gorgeous! Exquisite! I have been looking at it for days trying to decide on the color!
As I said in my previous comment, I am having a very hard time deciding on linen Quill colors. I know that you chose these colors because they would work especially well, but Linen Quill also comes in many other beautiful colors. Is there any reason why some of these would not also work in the scarf? I am thinking of butternut, turmeric, or mustard. As another commenter noted, I may just purchase extra Linen Quill and make two scarves.
Many thanks for this lovely pattern.
Hello Christine,
Thank you for reaching out- that sounds lovely! Our color selections are meant to be inspirational rather than a rule. I think your color ideas are all great!
We would love to see the end result, happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi, thank you for the beautiful pattern. I am working on my swatch and it seems to be going well, but I don’t think that I am wrapping Yarn A on rows one and three correctly. Can you expand on that detail? Thank you!
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! At the beginning of Row 1, you will slip the first stitch with the yarn in front, but will need to move your yarn to the back of the work in order to knit the rest of the row. Instead of moving the yarn to the back between the needles as you normally would when switching between a knit and a purl, you will wrap the yarn around the outside of the slipped stitch, under the needle, before knitting the second stitch. You will do the same on Row 3, except your yarn will be in the back and you will be moving it under the right hand needle to the front in order to purl the row.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
It absolutely does! Thanks so much for the extra detail!
I absolutely love your patterns and yarns! I do have s question on starting and then changing colors wit this project,which may be fairly obvious to all but me. The pattern indicates to cast on with yarn B a and then to join yarn A. It then indicates to slip the first stitch with both yarns in front. I can not figure out how to join Yarn A without a loop of some sort. Can you give me an ides of how to get those new yarns attached and in the right spot so the end looks correct.
Thank so much!
Susan
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m sorry that this step is a little confusing! Since Yarn A isn’t attached yet, you can’t really hold it in front while slipping the first stitch of Row 1. Instead, you will slip the first stitch with Color B in front, then simply start knitting with Color A in the back of the work. In future repeats you will be able to work this row as written, but since Color A isn’t attached yet when slipping the first stitch on the first repeat, there’s no need to worry about holding it in front or back.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi! I just purchased this kit and am so excited to start. I am pretty much a beginner and I am a little confused with the directions. (I’m sure its crystal clear to those of you who know what you are doing)
…with yarn B cast on 54 stitches.. got that… but…
Join yarn A- not sure how to do that when the first stitch is a slip. Can you give any direction? I feel like if i can just get the first rows started right ill be on my way. Thank you!!
Hi Pam,
Thanks for writing in! To add a new color while working the slip stitch edging, you will still slip the first stitch that is in Yarn B, and then beginning knitting with Yarn A on the second stitch. It is a bit tricky to visualize, but I think it will make sense when you try it!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I have started, ripped and restarted this pattern at least 6 times. I cannot get my edges to turn out the way they look on the sample. Right now I regret spending aver $100 on this yarn and am tempted to return everything I havent wound. Can you provide any stitch resources or tips? I am extremely frustrated.
Hello Roxanne,
Thank you for reaching out! I hope I can help. How are your edges turning out? Is it an issue of looseness or are you getting more contrast color on your edges? I will say that the most common issues people run into is remembering that when working Rows 1 and 3, Yarn A wraps around the selvage edge. If you are looking at the photo you can see tiny bits of blue at your selvedge.
I hope this makes sense and I would love to help more depending on the issue!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I’m a beginner knitter and have started this scarf. I’d love some tips on how to keep this fine yarn from tangling. I draped the two yarns over opposite arms of my chair, but caught the yarn on my shoe and drug it across the room before I realized what had happened. I now have a tangled mess. Will making the yarn into balls damage the yarn?
Hello Cathy,
Thank you for reaching out- we have all been there! One of the many realities of being a knitter. 🙂 Winding your skein into a ball will not damage your yarn, in fact you cannot knit from a skein because it will tangle up, as you have discovered. For a detailed description on how to do this check out our tutorial!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I am awaiting my order of this beautiful wool but in the meantime have been working on a sample with fingering wool I have. The edges are very difficult to get tight and even. And I see far more of Color A on the selvage than in the picture. Is there an alternative edging that might be simpler? Or am I missing something -the slipped stitch needs to be big enough for two rows so it is looser than if you were simply knitting it.
Thanks for any help, or an alternate edge.
Janice
Hi Janice,
Thanks for reaching out! Are you making sure to wrap Color A around the outside of the slipped stitches on Rows 1 and 3? This should tighten up the edging a bit. Since you are still swatching, you could certainly try just knitting the first and last stitch of every row without a special selvage stitch – if your tension is even, the plain garter stitch edges should stay fairly tidy.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I have struggled with the edging …I am practicing with a slightly heavier yarn and I must say as long as I pull the first stitch tight..the edge is just fine without the extra fiddle of the slip and wrap. PHEW
I love this scarf! I am really enjoying this project. I chose the kettle I am very new to knitting (this is my 3rd project ever!) but happily have knitting friends who help and encourage me not to worry if I make mistakes. Hang in the Roxanne. Don’t give up!
I restarted and ripped out many times -and I still have 2 colors more to go. It is worth it. I am ordering another kit today because I love it that much. It is exquisite.
**My one question is how long is project estimated to take?
Hello Tricia,
This is so exciting! This scarf is meant to be 70 inches long.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I’m a fairly new knitter and I have a question about “wrong” and “right” sides. The pattern says row 1 will be “wrong side” but I recently read on your website that when the cast on tail is on the right then you are on the “right” side. Wouldn’t that be the case for row 1?
Hi Allison,
Thanks for reaching out! While having the cast on tail on the right can often mean that you are on the right side of the work, I wouldn’t recommend relying on it because it isn’t always the case and this pattern is an example of an exception to that rule. Most of the time your first row will be the right side of your work, but it isn’t uncommon for the first row to be a wrong side row, as is the case here, and when your first row is a wrong side row, then whenever the tail is on the right you will actually have the wrong side of the work facing. This rule also only applies if you are using a long tail cast on. If you ever use a cable cast on or any other cast on that doesn’t use two tails of yarn, it again reverses which side of the work will have the tail on the right side.
Rather than using the tail to figure out which side of the work you are on, I would suggest placing a removable stitch marker in the knitted fabric so that it dangles on the right side of the work once you have done a few rows to keep track of which side of the scarf is the right side.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I would love to enlarge this pattern for use as a throw blanket. Could you tell me how much additional yarn would be needed, as well as a suggested number of cast on stitches?
Hi Trisha,
What a wonderful idea – this scarf would be beautiful scaled up to blanket! For a standard throw blanket of about 45″ by 60″ you will need to cast on 270 stitches and make each color stripe about 12 inches long. You will still only need one skein of each color of Sweetgrass, but will need four skeins of Linen Quill.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
I purchased thus bundle and it contains 2 skeins of the linen quill in dandelion so have I enough for the second size scarf
Thanks for your help
Hi Jacqueline,
Thanks for reaching out! Our Value Study Scarf bundle includes two skeins of Linen Quill, which is enough yarn for the larger size!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
How can both Row 1 and Row 2 be wrong side, and Row 3 and Row 4 both be right side? Wouldn’t it alternate…like all odd rows are either right or wrong? What am I missing?
Hi Joyce,
Thanks for reaching out! This does sound odd, but I assure it is correct! In this pattern, at the end of rows 1 and 3, instead of turning your work as you normally would, you will keep the same side facing you and slide all your stitches to the other end of your circular needle so that you work a second row on the same side of the scarf. If you are still having trouble visualizing it, I would recommend trying a swatch using two colors of yarn on double pointed needles so you can get the hang of sliding your work!
Best,
Julianna
I too, have ripped and restarted this project multiple times. I cannot get the edges to lay beautifully, instead they look sloppy. I am not a new knitter either. As far as knitting the first and last stitch instead, as you state above, it doesn’t work due to the pattern. The first and last stitch should always be the same color yarn. Also, I would prefer to not have the bumps on the edge that the knit stitch would create. I would go for that if it were the only other option, but still-the pattern won’t allow it unless I’m just not understanding-which is quite possible! Your help is appreciated-I was looking forward to knitting during this home lockdown we’re all enduring 🙂
Hi Natalie,
Thanks for reaching out! The edging we use does have a somewhat bumpy appearance, due to wrapping the yarn around the outside of the selvage stitch, so that is correct. At the beginning of Row 1, you will slip the first stitch with the yarn in front, but will need to move your yarn to the back of the work in order to knit the rest of the row. Instead of moving the yarn to the back between the needles as you normally would when switching between a knit and a purl, you will wrap the yarn around the outside of the slipped stitch, under the needle, before knitting the second stitch. You will do the same on Row 3, except your yarn will be in the back and you will be moving it under the right hand needle to the front in order to purl the row.
If you prefer, you could move your yarn to the front or back of the work as indicated by moving it between the needles, as you normally would when switching between knits and purls, which would create a smooth chained selvage.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi — I have three skeins of linen quill in a light orchid color and was thinking of making this wrap with two of them — *but* I see that buying the sweetgrass individually, you are currently out of one of the colors. I wonder about using line weight instead? Rather than in a brownish tone it would develop into a greyish tone. Also, I love working with linen quill but find it scratchy around the neck (very sensitive skin). I wonder if line weight might make the whole thing softer than sweetgrass would? THANK YOU!
Hi Mary Ellen,
What a lovely idea! Line Weight is a bit finer than Sweetgrass so I’d suggest checking your gauge with the substitution before starting in on the project. Line Weight is super-soft and combines beautifully with Linen Quill. I hope this helps!
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
Hi!
I have a question about the slipped stitches .For this pattern are the Stitches slipped “knit wise” or
“purl wise”??
Hi Sharon,
Thanks for reaching out! For this pattern, all slip stitches will be slipped purlwise. You can find this information at the top of the pattern in the Notes section!
Best,
Julianna
Hi!
I realized I purchased
wheatgrass” “fine“ yarn that seems too thin with the Linen Quill . Do You recommend I double the sweet grass fine yarn ? Or wait until “sweetgrass” (the heavier weight) colors are all back in Stock? Let me know! Thanks
Hi Sharon,
Thanks for reaching out! Since you already have it, I would try a swatch using Sweetgrass Fine held double to see if you are able to match our gauge. Held double, it’s quite similar to our original Sweetgrass, so I think this would be the fastest way to get started!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi, I have quite a bit of the skeins of Sweetgrass left, what are some of your patterns that I could use the leftover yarn for?
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for reaching out! Since Sweetgrass is a fingering weight any of our accessory projects in fingering weight would be great! You can find them here! Depending on how much yarn you have left over I would probably suggest a hat, Our High Point Hat or Best Friend Hat would be a great option! I always recommend to work a gauge swatch whenever using a different yarn than whats recommended in the project prior to beginning to insure you are consistent with the pattern!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
This is a lovely pattern! Does it require a certain multiple of stitches? Doesn’t appear so, but I wanted to double-check to be sure. I’d like to make a slightly wider scarf than 9″, but don’t quite want a 15″ wrap, so assuming I can cast on any even number of stitches?
thank you!
Hi Elena,
Thanks for reaching out! That is correct! This pattern doesn’t have a specific stitch multiple that it works over so you can adjust the width as you please by casting on an even number of stitches!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi,
I would like to purchase this bundle but you’re out of the buckwheat beige. Do you know when it will be back in stock?
Thanks!
Margaret
Hi Margaret,
Thanks for writing in! It looks like we have an order of Buckwheat Beige on the way! Although I don’t have a firm eta on when we will be receiving this, I anticipate we should have it back in stock within the next few weeks! The best way to stay up to date is to add your email on the Sweetgrass product page under Buckwheat Beige and we will send you an email as soon as it is available!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi,
It says this is a garter stitch pattern, but two of the rows are purl. Is this correct?
Hi Margaret,
Thanks for reaching out. The reason that there are two rows with purl stitches is because you slide your work between these rows, instead of turning it! This is because you’ll be using another yarn for the following two rows. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I enjoy knitting on larger needles. Would it work to hold double strands of each yarn for a thicker scarf? If so, any suggestion on needle size for my initial gauge swatch? Thanks!
Hi Jen,
Thanks for reaching out. You could definitely hold each yarn doubled! I would try using a size US 6 needle in this case. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi-
Many of the questions refer to the selvedge edge technique used in this pattern. I’ve been working this pattern in every which way and cannot get the edge to work properly. Neither can the yarn store ladies (x 2 yarn stores). Can you post a video of this?
Hi Sharon,
Thanks for reaching out. I can absolutely help clarify how to work the selvedge in this pattern! It is a bit unusual, so I understand how tricky it can be.
Before beginning Row 1 of the stitch pattern, your working strand of Yarn A will be coming out from the front of your fabric, in between the first and second stitch. Because you’ll need to start knitting with Yarn A on this row, you’ll need to somehow get it to the back of the work. To do so, after slipping the fist stitch, you’ll move Yarn A to the right, around that slipped stitch (and under Yarn B), and behind the work. Then, you can start knitting with it, and the yarn will be wrapped around the selvedge!
On Row 3, it’s a very similar procedure, but with purling instead. Before beginning Row 3, your working strand of Yarn A will be coming out from the back of the fabric, between the first and second stitch. Because you’ll need to start purling with Yarn A, you need to get it to the front of the work. To do this, after slipping the first stitch, move Yarn A to the right, around the slipped stitch (under Yarn B), and to the front of the work. Then, you can start purling with it!
I hope this helps you visualize how to do this step! We would also be happy to meet with you in a 1-On-1 Project Help appointment over Zoom, so we can demonstrate this in real-time.
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
I am in love with this stitch pattern and the yarns used to make it. I would like to make a throw blanket pattern (50 X 60 inches or so) and have completely broken my brain trying to figure out the yardage for the Linen Quill (in Stillwater Blue) and the Sweetgrass yarns I would need. Do you have the resources to help me figure this out? Your help would be so appreciated!
Hi Lucie!
Thank you so much for your comment! To figure out how much yarn you will need for a blanket version of this pattern, I would take the weight of each skein of yarn first, then knit a 4×4 gauge swatch, and then weigh your yarn again to see how much yarn you used for a 4×4 area of fabric. Using this information, you can calculate how much yarn you would need for your desired area of fabric (50×60). This 4×4 gauge swatch will also be helpful in determining how many stitches per inch you get, so you can scale that up to your desired width to figure out your cast-on amount!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Thank you, Margaret!
You are very welcome, Lucie!
All the best,
Margaret
Such a gorgeous scarf!
I don’t live in the US so I was just wondering what yarn could I use to replace this yarn?
Thanks so much
Hi Neeta,
For this pattern, you’ll need two different fingering weight yarns! One of the yarns would need to come in a gradient of colors, so that you get the changes in value across the length of the scarf. The other would just need to be a single color!
If you do want to give our yarn a try though, I wanted to let you know that we ship internationally! I recommend going through our shipping page for more details on pricing and average delivery times.
All the best,
Lili
Nearly done knitting this beautiful scarf.
I’ve had a bit of trouble weaving in ends in a way that doesn’t show, since the color changes every row.
Any advice on how to do it?
Hi Will,
Thanks for writing in! I’d recommend using duplicate stitch to weave in your ends. If you take your ends and follow the path of the same color yarn as you weave them in, the ends will barely be noticeable.
All the best,
Lili