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Simple Stripe Pullover
Our Simple Stripe Pullover knitting pattern brims with charisma and handmade personality, but its classic design reads like a go-with-everything basic… The perfect only-sweater-I-need!
Single row striping gains added dimension when it is extended over 1×1 rib details at the hem, cuffs, and beautiful yoke collar. Not too high, not too low, the neckline feels elegant and modern, lying flat against the clavicle.
A simple top-down construction, you’ll begin with the collar, then yoke. Some short rows shape the neckline, increases form the raglan, and a purl column down the center back solves the “jog” problem of striping in the round, creating a beautiful detail that serves an ingenious function.
Knit up in our gorgeous Cashmere Merino Bloom yarn, the Simple Stripe Pullover shows off this yarn’s many winning qualities: incredible softness, beautiful drape, and a lovely halo of warmth. We used a pair of old favorites, Dove Gray and Charcoal Onyx, but for your version, feel free to explore the 16 new colors we just added to the collection… a whole new world of color for your new favorite sweater!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Adam Aronowitz.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Want to print this pattern? On desktop, find the “print” icon in the right margin, and on mobile, scroll to the end of the pattern for it. Use the on-screen instructions to remove anything you don’t want to print!
MATERIALS
- Purl Soho’s Cashmere Merino Bloom, 75% extra fine merino wool and 25% cashmere. Each skein of this light worsted/DK yarn is approximately 218 yards/ 100 grams.
- Color A: 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 6, 6) skeins; approximately 590 (665, 760, 835, 940) (1015, 1065, 1120, 1195) yards required. We used the color Dove Gray.
- Color B: 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 6, 6) skeins; approximately 580 (655, 745, 820, 925) (1000, 1050, 1105, 1175) yards required. We used the color Charcoal Onyx.
Here are some more pretty color combos…
Top Left: Bright Flamingo + Autumn Oak
Top Right: Wheat Flour + Red Poppy
Bottom Left: Lilac Quartz + Pumpernickel Brown
Bottom Right: True Turquoise + High Tide
You’ll also need…
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 5 (3.75 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 5, 32-inch circular needles
- A set of US 5 double pointed needles
- US 6 (4 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 6, 24-inch circular needles
- US 6, 32-inch circular needles
- A set of US 6 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A Simple Stripe Pullover Pattern
GAUGE
22 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch with largest needles
SIZES
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
38½ (43, 47¼, 51¾, 56) (60¼, 64, 67¾, 72)
To fit actual chest circumference of 29–33 (33–37, 37–41, 42–46, 46–50) (50–54, 54–58, 58–62, 62–66) inches, with approximately 6–10 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 38½ (43, 47¼, 51¾, 56) (60¼, 64, 67¾, 72) inches
- Finished Length From Shoulder To Bottom Edge: 22 (22¾, 24½, 25½, 27¼) (28, 28½, 28¾, 29¼) inches
- Finished Sleeve Length From Underarm To Cuff: 17 (17, 17¼, 17¼, 17½) (17½, 17¾, 17¾, 18) inches
SAMPLE: The sweater pictured here is size 38½, worn with 6 inches of ease.
PATTERN
The Simple Stripe Pullover Pattern is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
Learn About Cashmere Merino Bloom + All Our Beautiful Yarns
Soft, supple, and toasty warm, Cashmere Merino Bloom is an absolute knitting joy! A light worsted/DK-weight yarn, it is made with 25% of the most exquisite cashmere in the world and 75% extra fine merino wool and benefits from both fibers: cashmere for over-the-top softness and beautiful bloom and merino for resilience, durability, and even more softness. Cashmere Merino Bloom has an incredible hand feel with a gentle halo that illuminates your knitting… A gorgeous choice!
More Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our collection of (mostly free!) Cashmere Merino Bloom patterns and cast on!
More Light Worsted/ DK Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of light worsted/DK-weight yarns (What does DK-weight yarn mean, really? Our guide to DK yarn will answer your questions and demystify.)
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial and our Yarn Substitution article for lots of helpful information.
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop cashmere yarn (What makes cashmere so special? Learn all about this amazing fiber in our guide to cashmere yarn!)
- Shop merino wool yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our knitting patterns (including tons of free knitting patterns) and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I’d like to know more about the pattern:
1. What is the level of difficulty of pattern?
2. If using a solid color rather than stripping, would you omit purl column down the center back?
3. Can length, shoulder to hem, be easily increased?
4. Any shaping of waist or is pattern knit straight down without decreases?
5. Any seaming needed?
Thank you.
Hi Fran,
Thanks for reaching out! I would consider this an advanced beginner to intermediate sweater – aside from a few short rows at the beginning of the yoke, the rest of the sweater involves only basic increases and decreases. Unless you like the look of the false seam at the back of the sweater, you could certainly omit the purl stitch when knitting in a single color. The body of the sweater is knit straight, without any increases or decreases, so you could easily adjust the length of the sweater by knitting for longer before beginning the bottom ribbing. And finally, this is a totally seamless sweater! As with all top down sweaters, you may have a few small holes or loose spots in the underarm that will need to be tightened up when weaving in your ends, but otherwise there is minimal finishing required.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
This is so cute! How many hours knitting do you think?
Hi Lesley,
Thanks so much for the kind words! It’s hard to say how long any project will take since the amount of time it takes to knit something varies greatly from person to person and depends on a lot of your level of comfort and speed with the techniques used. Although much of this sweater is easy stockinette in the round, it is knit on smaller needles and there are quite a few stitches to get through, so for most people this would be a bit of a long term project.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi,
I do like the look of narrow stripes, but I wonder, would Helical knitting also solve the ‘jog’ issue without leaving the vertical line of solid color on the back?
Thanks,
B-R
Hi,
Thanks for reaching out! We do not think that helical knitting will work here. Helical knitting changes the End of Round position and as the color changes mid round, the counts will be off in the pattern. Additionally, this would make the neck shaping quite confusing and when you do the short rows, you won’t get a single stripe.
Happy knitting!
Cassy
How bout toddler pattern in this? Would love it
Hi Jan,
Thanks for writing in! While we do not currently have plans to add children’s sizes to this pattern, I will certainly pass your suggestion along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Would you consider this a beginner level pattern?
Hi Kerry,
Thanks for reaching out! I would consider this an advanced beginner to intermediate project. At the very beginning of the yoke there are a few short rows to shape the neckline which are a bit trickier than usual due to the stripes, but this section is written out very clearly and should be easy to follow, even for a beginner. Once you get past that section, the rest of the sweater is very beginner friendly and includes only basic increases, decreases, and stockinette and ribbing in the round. If you are looking for a beginner level sweater and are up for a small challenge as you get started, I think this is an excellent pattern to try!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello!! I absolutely love this pattern and am wondering if you have any suggestions for a cheaper (non-cashmere, I guess) yarn sub. Thanks so much!
Hi Laura,
Thank you so much for the kind words! We totally understand that sometimes our yarn suggestions are more of an inspiration than a reality for many people. We are always happy to recommend less expensive (but still beautiful!) alternatives. In this case, we suggest that you try either Flax Down or Good Wool. Both yarns should knit up to the correct gauge for the pattern, and while Flax Down has a larger color palette, Good Wool is definitely our most economical option. Flax Down has the same yardage as Cashmere Merino Bloom so you would need the same number of skeins, but due to the higher yardage of Good Wool, you would only need 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) skeins of each color.
Thank you so much for asking. We’re sure that lots of other readers will thank you, too!
Julianna
I love the look of the wheat flour with the poppy! Was there any bleeding when it was blocked or what precautions did you take to prevent it?
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for reaching out! We have not experienced or had any reports of Cashmere Merino Bloom bleeding so we did not take any extra steps, such as re-fixing the dye, before knitting and blocking this sweater. Generally such precautions are not necessary with yarns that are not hand dyed, so you should be fine to combine any two colors you wish!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi-
Love stripes,bought the pattern.
Is this “Superwash”merino wool?
Hello Debby,
Thank you for reaching out! Cashmere Merino Bloom is not Super Wash. We reccomend Hand washing cold, laying flat to dry for care. If you are looking for a super wash yarn for this pattern I would reccomend Anzula’s Cricket.
Happy knitting!
Hi,
What an absolutely stunning design! I’d love to knit this pattern but, was wondering if you had any suggestions for a non-wool yarn substitution.
Many thanks for you help.
Sue
Hello Sue,
Thank you for reaching out and your kind words! I would check out our Understory Yarn which is 50% baby alpaca, 25% baby yak, 25% silk or Jade Sapphire’s 6ply Cashmere.
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi. This is such a lovely sweater-love the yoke collar! I really appreciate that you shown different colour combinations as well. Do you have any suggestions for non-wool substitutes?
Thanks,
Carol
Hello Carol,
Thank you for reaching out and for your beautiful words! I would check out our Understory Yarn which is 50% baby alpaca, 25% baby yak, 25% silk or Jade Sapphire’s 6ply Cashmere.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi Marilla,
Thank you for the reply and suggestions. I forgot to add that I am allergic to all animal fibers …so those yarns wouldn’t work either. I’m hoping there is something that will work even though the look will be different.
Thanks!
Carol
Hello Carol,
Thank you for clarifying- this is a bit tricker. We don’t have any plant based Fiber that will be the correct gauge for this project. Though you could try holding our Cattail Silk double which should get you right on gauge for this project. You are correct that it will have a very different look, but I think it would come out beautifully.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I am thoroughly enjoying knitting this pattern and am impressed with the clean, finished look of the short row and increase techniques. Purl Soho knitting patterns are my preferred choice because of the high quality instructions and designs.
I just have to say that, in my opinion, the single row stripes of this sweater look even more amazing on the wrong / reverse stockinette side! Just wanted to let you know.
Oh and thank you so much for such a lovely pattern!!!
Hi there – this is more of a question about the yarn. Is it prone to pilling? In my experience wool/cashmere blend is the worst in terms of susceptibility to pilling. But I trust judgement/experience completely about this!
Hi Alex,
Thanks for reaching out! You are correct that shorter fibers, like merino and cashmere, can pill, especially in high friction areas such as under the arms. Although some pilling is unavoidable with these softer fibers, we haven’t found that Cashmere Merino Bloom pills excessively, and it cleans up quite nicely with a Gleener!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you so much! I’m going to give it a go. 🙂
I am beginning this sweater and noticed on page 5 of the pattern when the yoke increase starts there is no section for size 43. Which directions do I follow for size 43? Thanks
Hi Kim,
Thanks for reaching out! Since there are no special instructions for Size 43, you will proceed to the next section for all sizes, which is “Separate Sleeves From Body.”
I hope that helps!
Julianna
How would you knit this sweater in just one color?
Hello Vicki,
Thank you for reaching out! This would be a very simple modification. You would just ignore all instructions regarding changing color and just stick with one color- no actual pattern modification necessary!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hello,
Can’t wait for my yarn to arrive and begin this! I’ve noticed it has an ease of 6-10 inches, which seems like a lot. To help me choose a size, would you mind letting me know why the ease is so much? Is it because there’s not a lot of elasticity in the knit, or is it to give it a relaxed fit? I must admit it looks quite fitted, but wanted to check. In the 38 1/2 size I’d have 3 1/2 inches of ease, and in the 43 I’d have 8. I know the pattern guide suggests I make size 43, but I’m worried 8 inches of ease might make it too baggy. I’m generally a Purl Soho standard size 37!
Thanks so much for your beautiful patterns and helpful advice.
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! Our fit recommendations are meant to provide a relaxed, slightly boxy fit, but if you prefer a more fitted sweater, you could certainly knit the next size down! Our pictures show the sweater worn with 6 inches of positive ease, so the 43 would give you a fit similar to the sweater our model is wearing. Another way to figure out which size you will prefer is to measure the chest of a sweater you already own and like the fit of and choose the size that is closest to that measurement.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thanks very much, Julianna. I love that Purl Soho has these comment sections. Often a question I have is already answered, and if not I always get a helpful response. Over the last three years I’ve taught myself to knit using your patterns, tutorials and comments. Knitting has been a positive influence on my anxiety, and your guidance makes even the tricky bits easy. I like to remind my husband that even with shipping to Australia it’s still cheaper than therapy! ? Thanks again.
Hi Sarah,
You are too kind!! We do our best to answer everyone’s comments, which can be tricky to do when writing responses to knitting questions, so it’s always extra nice to know that we are actually helping you! On behalf of the comment team, thank you so much for letting us know!
Best,
Julianna
I cast on for the size 56 but have decided that will have too much ease, plus my gauge is a tiny bit off, so I think the 51 3/4 sizing will be best. I have tried it on and like the fit so far, so can I just start following the instructions for that size now? I’m almost done with the yoke increases. Will there be any foreseeable problems with that? Thanks!
Hi Anna,
Thanks so much for reaching out! The only thing I would recommend checking is how the sleeves will fit in the new size, since that will also be affected by any variation in gauge or changing sizes. To do so, you will take the number of stitches for the sleeve in the new size, which is 90 stitches for size 51 3/4, and divide it by your actual stitches per inch to get the finished circumference of the sleeve at the bicep. You can then compare that measurement to your arm to make sure the sleeve won’t turn out tight. As long as you are happy with how the sleeve will fit and how the yoke is currently fitting, you can certainly switch to knitting the smaller size from here on out!
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi,
On page 3 of Shape the neckline and yoke, you say to slip 2 stitches for rows 1 and 3. But then you have all these extra stitches by the end of it. It seems like you have to slip 2 stitches for row 2 and 4 as well in order to have a nice gradient. I made it to the end of it and now its not a great gradient. and there’s 12 extra stitches.
-C
Hello Chloe,
Thank you for reaching out! Rows 1 and 3 both are both increase rows, while rows 2 and 4 are not. Adding slipped stitches to these rows would create an issue with how your stitches are stacked on top of each other. Do you have 12 extra stitches to your total stitch count or are you talking about how your stitches are oriented on your needles?
I hope I can help and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello,
I have questions about the yo increase stitches at the neckline. It states to yo six times total on row 1, but this adds up to an increase of 6 stitches per row (not 8 as pattern states.) Also slipping 12 stitches each to the two double pointed needles to set up neckline but in the increase rows only 6 stitches of the 12 get worked into increase rows. What happens to the six stitches in each side left on the double pointed needles.
Thank you for your time and advise.
I reread and see I did not slip 2 stitches at both ends of increase row so that is solved. Just need to understand the YO’s per increase row. My directions state 1 YO before marker and then 2 YO’s after marker. This adds up to an increase of 6 stitches not 8 as directions say. Should I YO four time total on each side?
Hi Anais,
Thanks for reaching out! So for the first row you should start by slipping 2 stitches from double pointed needle to circular needles, with Color B,
[knit to 1 stitch before next marker, yarn over (yo), k1, slip marker (sm), k1, yo] 2 times (4 yo total), knit to 1
stitch before end of round (Center Back), p1, sm, [knit to 1 stitch before next marker, yo, k1, sm, k1,
yo] 2 times (another 4 yo total) then you should have 8 increases total!
I hope this clarifies things, happy knitting!
Gianna
I am having the same problem as Anais with leftover stitches on the double pointed needles.
You start with 12 on each needle. Each round of 4 has used 2 stitches off each of the double pointed needles.
So after 3 repeats of the 4 rows, you have used only 6 of the 12 stitches on the double pointed needles. What happens to the remaining 6 stitches?
What am I missing?
Thank you.
Hi April,
Thanks for reaching out! Each repeat of Rows 1 – 4 actually uses up 4 stitches off of each DPN. 2 from each DPN are used on Row 1, and 2 more from each DPN are used on Row 3. This adds up to 12 once you work all the repeats!
All the best,
Lili
I am having some issues with the “body/cast on for underarms area.” I am making the smallest size, and the stitches don’t seem to be divided evenly when I follow the pattern instructions. Because the body is only 98 stitches on the front and back, when the pattern indicates knitting the next 100 stitches after the first cable cast on, I have to go 7 stitches into the back before the second cable cast on….this doesn’t seem right. My cable cast on also looks like it will leave a big gap. Can you please help?
Hello Haley,
Thank you for reaching out! It looks like you missed the last increase section for size 38 1/2. At the bottom of the left column on page 5 there is a section for size 38 1/2 that gets your front and back stitch count up to 100.
I hope this clears things up and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello team!
I seem to be having a few issues with the neckline + yoke section. I have holes on either side of the raglan shaping where I have done the yarn overs. This is in keeping with my understanding of yarn over increases but I don’t see any holes in your sample or other people’s projects. I’m knitting through the back of the yarn overs in rows 2 & 4 as instructed and am not sure how to avoid them. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for reaching out! Knitting the yarn overs through the back loop should close them up so that there aren’t any visible holes. I would first check that you are knitting through the back loop correctly as it is a bit trickier in a yarn over than it is in a regular stitch – unfortunately we don’t have a tutorial for this, but if you type “knitting yarn over through the back loop” into your preferred search engine you should find several helpful videos. It is also possible that knitting at a loose gauge will still result in visible holes, even if you are knitting through the back loop correctly, so I would also recommend measuring your gauge and if you have substituted a different yarn visually check that the knitted fabric is turning out fairly dense. If you still aren’t happy with how the yarn overs are turning out, you could try substituting M1L and M1R instead!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi Julianna
Thanks for getting back to me! Yes, I’ve double checked I’m doing my yarn overs & knitting through the back correctly… I was half wondering whether it had something to do with using a different yarn. Will go ahead and use m1l & m1r I think!
Thanks again,
Jenny
I had the same problem! I even went to a knitters’ help desk who confirmed that I was doing everything correctly but still ended up with the holes.
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! Recently I have seen this happen to a few knitters when working this type of increase, and it does seem to be related to how loose their knitted fabric is. If you are still getting holes, I would recommend substituting m1R and m1L instead!
Best,
Julianna
I love this pattern! Easy to follow, great construction and looks beautiful.
Hello. I am a little confused about the instruction in Row 1 to slip 2 stitches from the double pointed needle and then begin knitting. How do I incorporate those two stitches into the row? Do I thread colour B back to the beginning or do something in the following row? I would appreciate your help with this divine pattern.
Hi Gwynnedd,
Thank you for reaching out! At the end of the previous section, you should have cut both colors so they are ready to reattach.To begin this row, after slipping the two stitches to the circular needle, you will be reattaching Color B and begin knitting, and will reattach Color A at the beginning of the next row.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi,
Could I substitute the Camel yarn that you sell?
Is it easy to modify this pattern so that it is one color, no stripes?
Hi Natalie,
Great question! Yes, I think Camel would be a lovely yarn for this sweater! As always, when starting a new project and especially when substituting a different yarn, you should knit a gauge swatch to see if you need to change your needle size, but I don’t think you will have any trouble obtaining the correct gauge! When you are knitting the yoke, there are some specialized instructions for working short rows in single row stripes; however, if you simply work from two balls of yarn at once, as if you were using two different colors, it should work out just fine! To knit the sweater in one color, you will need 9 (10, 11, 13, 14, 15) balls of Camel.
Happy knitting, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Thanks Julianna!
Will I need to hold two strands of the yarn for the entire project?
Will this substitution be simple, or would it be easier to find a pattern that doesn’t have stripes?
Hi Natalie,
Rather than holding two strands together, you will be using a single strand but working from two balls of yarn, using one ball as Yarn A and one ball as Yarn B, even though they are the same color. If it helps, you can differentiate them by using two different colored post it notes or stitch markers attached to the balls of yarn to keep track of which is which, but I think it will be easy to tell which ball to knit from when you are working the short rows!
Best,
Julianna
Feeling very frustrated half way through this sweater as it’s coming out WAY bigger than the pattern dimensions despite the fact that I’m slightly under gauge. I’m small and find most patterns too large which is why I was excited to try the sample on in the store and found it fit well. But instead of 38.5″ circumference I’m currently at 43″. Even if I rip it out and start again I’m not sure I’ll end up with anything different since my gauge/stitch count is accurate. Any thoughts/tips would be so appreciated!
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m so sorry that your sweater is turning out the wrong size! It does sound like you will have to go down a needle size or two to fix the fit of your sweater. Have you tried measuring your gauge on the actual sweater so far to see if it matches our gauge of 22 stitches and 32 rows to 4 inches? It is not uncommon for gauge to turn out looser in an actual garment. Some knitters find that because they are more focused or worried about getting the correct gauge on their swatch they knit tighter than normal, and then relax into their usual looser tension when they start knitting their project.
If your gauge is correct and you have 212 stitches after separating the sleeves from the body, the chest measurement will be 38.5 inches, because 212 stitches divided by 5.5 stitches per inch equals 38.5 inches. Even a slight variation from the gauge of 22 stitches to 4 inches, or 5.5 stitches per inch, can result in a very noticeable difference in the size, so it’s also a good idea to measure your gauge over the full 4 inches instead of just measuring one inch!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Would doubling the posey yarn work for one of the two colors? is there much difference between the dove gray cashmere and the drizzly gray posey?
Hi Kim,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, Posy is a different enough weight from Cashmere Merino Bloom that it would probably throw off your gauge if you used it in this pattern. It’s possible that it could work, but you would have to knit a gauge swatch in the single row stripe pattern, using Posy and Cashmere Merino Bloom together, to find out. Drizzle Gray is a bit lighter and cooler toned than Dove Gray, but they aren’t drastically different. If you are looking for a neutral gray for one of your stripes, then I think Dove Gray will work well!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Lovely pattern. I was excited at the 25% offer on the Bloom as this would make it more affordable than usual, but disappointed that the Charcoal is out of stock! When do you think it’ll restock? Thanks.
Hi Wendy,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m so sorry about that! Unfortunately we do not have an ETA for Charcoal Onyx, but it most likely will not be restocked before the sale is over; however, please reach out to us at [email protected] and we will see what we can do!
Best,
Julianna
Would this work as a unisex sweater? Looking for a pattern to knit for my adult son.
Hello Susan,
Thank you for reaching out! This sweater works great as a unisex option.
Happy knitting!
-Marila
How much yardage would I need to knit this sweater using 1 color only?
Hi Fran,
Thanks for reaching out! To knit the sweater in a solid color, you will need 1170 (1320, 1505, 1655, 1865, 2015) yards total.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I just finished the neckline section. I missed one of the yarn overs for one of the sleeves so only have 17 stitches instead of 18. I can’t tell which row it happened in and would prefer not to rip it out. What kind of increase would you recommend to add the stitch but not be too obvious? Would you do it in a color A or B row?
Hello Erica,
Thanks for reaching out! If you don’t want to go back I would say that you can really add an increase wherever you want. It will likely be less noticeable on the shoulder section. I would do a knit 1 front and back as the increases.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
Marilla
Hi,
I have started knitting this up and have got to the end of the collar section, to the line that instructs ‘Cut Colours A and B’. Now this seems a simple, straight forward step but just wanted to check before committing to cutting the yarn! Is that right – you just cut them once you’ve established the raglan points? And then rejoin once you’ve done the slip stitches for the neckline?
Hope this makes sense!
Thanks
Jess
Hi Jess,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct! At this point, you will cut both strands of yarn, leaving six to seven inch long tails as you normally would so that you can weave them in later, and then rejoin both colors when indicated in the next part of the pattern.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I am getting ready to cast on, but can’t seem to wrap my brain around the short row shaping with the DPNs. Am I still knitting in the round, but with short rows too? Is this a way to shape with short rows but preserve the look of the single row stripes?Trying to visualize this, but I can’t figure it out!
Cheers,
Beth
Hi Beth,
Thanks for reaching out! This part of the yoke can certainly be tricky to visualize! Although your stitches will be already joined in the round, you will be working back and forth and not in the round for the short rows. The double pointed needles are essentially acting as stitch holders, keeping the stitches you need for the short rows separate from the front neck stitches, so that you can keep track of when to be done with the short rows. I think this section is much easier to actually knit than to think through, so I would suggest just going for it!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi, I really love this pattern! I am now finishing up the body and ready to bind off, but I’m not sure what technique to use. Could you help me out? Thanks!
Hi Eva,
Thanks for reaching out! For this pattern, you will simply bind off in the 1×1 ribbing pattern – in other words, you will use a Basic Bind Off, but instead of knitting all the stitches, you will continue to knit your knits and purl your purls as you have for the rest of the ribbing. Just make sure your bind off is nice and loose so the edge stays stretchy!
Best,
Julianna
Hi, silly question – when separating the sleeves from the body, should the two raglan stitches on each side of arm be part of the arm stitch count? I’ve messed up somehow with my numbers, and can probably finagle it but figured I’d ask.
The cashmere merino bloom yarn is a delight to work with by the way!
Thanks
Hi Wendy,
Thanks for reaching out! The sleeves should include both increase stitches, as well as the knit stitch that is next to the marker. As long as you place the correct number of stitches on hold for your size and there isn’t a huge discrepancy, it should turn out alright as any irregularities will be hidden in the armpit of the sweater!
Best,
Julianna
Hi! love this sweater, however I cannot get my head around the part where you start shaping the neckline. Is there maybe an extra tutorial? If I understand basically row 3 and 4 (after increasing in row 1 and 2), I should be able to move on with my project. I have been knitting in german short rows before (so now the principle), but now I don’t understand how to use this (or where) in this pattern. It might be my English (although I’m used to read english patterns as a non native speaker) or because I’m left handed (and not sure whether I knit as a lefty). Hope you could help me out! Thank you!
Hi Myrthe,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we do not have an additional tutorial or video for this step, but hopefully I can clarify this step for you! When you begin the Shape Neckline + Yoke section, your stitches will be joined in the round, but you will be working back and forth and not in the round for the short rows. The double pointed needles are essentially acting as stitch holders, keeping the stitches you need for the short rows separate from the front neck stitches, so that you can keep track of when to be done with the short rows and to make it easier to work from both ends of the circular needle.. Rows 1 and 3 are increase rows, while rows 2 and 4 are plain rows, but to maintain the single row stripes, after working Row 1 with the knit side facing, you will slide the stitches to the other end of the circular needle, keeping the knit side facing you the whole time, and work Row 2 as another knit row without increasing. You will then turn normally to work Row 3 with the wrong side facing you, and to knit row 4, again slide the stitches to the other end of the circular needle, keeping the purl side facing you, to work another wrong side row.
I hope that helps, but really I think this section is much easier to actually knit than to think through, so I would suggest just going for it, following the instructions row by row, to see how it turns out!
Best,
Julianna
Hello, beautiful sweater and photographs! I’m wondering if you have any photos of what the ‘purl column’ looks like in the back of the sweater? Is it very noticeable? Many thanks!
Hi Valerie,
Thank you for reaching out and for your kind words! The purl column can be seen in the third photo from the top. While the column is noticeable, I find it to be a subtle and interesting design detail as it is repeated in the raglan shaping as well. I hope this helps!
Happy knititng!
Gaby
Hi, I’ve read through the questions about the yoke increase but am still confused. In rows 1 and 3 when it says “ knit to 1 stitch before end of round” do you mean to the next marker? What do you mean by round?
Hi Heather,
Thank you for writing in! At the beginning of page 3 you were asked to place a unique end-of-round marker, so the instructions in this increase round are asking you to knit to 1 stitch before this unique marker which signifies the beginning of a new round. ‘Round’ is what a Row is called when it is being knit in the round on circular needles. I hope this is helpful!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
I love this pattern and look forward to trying it! This will be my first project on circular needles and I do not have 16” circular needles. Would I be able to use 24” instead? I am not experienced with circular knitting. Thank you!
Hi Alexandra,
Thanks for reaching out! The 16″ needle is used to start, at the neckline/collar, and I’m afraid that a 24″ needle would be too long to manage that number of stitches. Another option would be to use a set of double pointed needles instead. I hope this helps!
Best,
Cassandra
Hello – I’ve just completed this sweater. Lovely pattern, and the Cashmere Bloom yarn really is lovely to work with, so soft. Would you recommend a full, wet block for this yarn? It’s already a bit bigger than I’d like, despite being spot on with gauge, so don’t want it to stretch too much. Thanks
Hi Wendy
Congratulations on completing the sweater, and so glad you enjoyed the pattern! I wouldn’t recommend a full wet block, because the sweater will probably increase even more in size. A gentle misting with a spray bottle or a light steam block would probably be the best choice! Hope this helps!
Best
Jessica
Hello! I’m getting confused when it comes to shaping the neckline, where it says: Row 1, Increase Row (right side): Slip 2 stitches from double pointed needle to circular needs, with Color B, [knit to one stitch…]
As I begin this step I have the circular needle in my left hand, and double-pointed (closest to left front raglan) in my right. Does this mean I just transfer 2 stitches from the double-pointed onto the circular needle, and then proceed to knit those 2 stitches and follow the pattern from there?
Hi Eliza,
Thanks for writing in! This part can be a bit tricky to visualize, but it sounds like you’ve got it! The double pointed needles are essentially acting as stitch holders, keeping the stitches you need for the short rows separate from the front neck stitches, so that you can keep track of when to be done with the short rows and to make it easier to work from both ends of the circular needle. At the beginning and end of every increase row, you will transfer two more stitches from the double pointed needles to the circular needle and knit or purl them as indicated with Color B.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I am also confused here!! After I slip those two stitches to my double pointed needle, do I let go fo the double pointed needle and pick up my right circular needle?
Hi Courtney,
Thanks for reaching out! You basically are using the DPN as a stitch holder and slipping 2 stitches off of the DPNs onto the circular needles! This way you can keep the stitches you need for the short rows separate from the front neck stitches.
I hope that clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
A question…I am working row 1 (increase row) of the second repeat of the four row neckline shaping. When I slip 2 stitches from the double point to begin the row, my working yarn is two stitches to the left from where I will start knitting the slipped stitches. Am I doing something wrong or do I just carry the yarn across the back? Same thing happens at the beginning of row 3…slipped stitches are two stitches away from working yarn after stitches are slipped from double point.
Hi Christine
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like your doing this part correctly! At the beginning and end of every increase row, you will transfer two more stitches from the double pointed needles to the circular needle and knit or purl them as indicated with Color B. Just make sure to not tug on color B in this transition, and everything should be fine! Happy knitting!
Jessica
Hi! I love the red poppy and wheat flour color combo. Since the wheat flour cashmere merino bloom is sold out, do you think it would work if I knit this in two different yarns: good wool in winter grass and cashmere merino bloom in red poppy? Thanks!
Hi Tracy,
Thanks for writing in! Although you would have to knit a striped gauge swatch using both yarns to make sure, I think Good Wool would combine wonderfully with Cashmere Merino Bloom for this sweater! Both yarns knit up to a very similar gauge, and Good Wool will make the sweater a little more economical to boot while still maintaining the cozy softness of cashmere.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
I can’t wait to get started on this pattern, but am afraid maybe I’m missing something since I haven’t viewed the tutorials yet and am somewhat of a beginner/intermediate knitter. Are all of the needles listed required for all sizes? Thank you!
Hi Fran,
Thanks for writing in! Yes all the needles listed are required for all the sizes!
I hope this helps and feel free to reach out with any more questions you may have!
All the best,
Gianna
Hello! I bought and am currently knitting this pattern and am wondering if there is a correction for the yoke section for size 43, as there are no instructions for it and two different sets of instructions for size 51 1/4. Thanks
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing in! For size 43, after working the INCREASE YOKE section you more directly on to SEPARATE SLEEVES FROM BODY section!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hello Team, I am a knitter from Germany an I wonder what does it mean to knit across stitches?
Does it mean to just knit the stitches?
Thanks for helping me,
Bye Heike
Hi Heike,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, when we say “knit across stitches” It just means to knit the stitches!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
All the best,
Gianna
Hello I’m in the process of knitting the yoke of this pattern – I’m on Color B and starting and Row 2 in Color A, but I still have unstitched Color A stitches sitting on some of my needles. Does this happen in any of the rounds or did I go wrong somewhere?
Hi Batul,
Thanks for reaching out! For the yoke section, once you join the work in the round you should be working over all of the stitches in the round starting at row 1, there should be stitches left unworked before moving on to row two! I would suggest re working the first row to insure you are following the pattern correctly and working all of the stitches!
All the best,
Gianna
Gianna,
Thanks so much for your reply! I’ve completed the collar and I’m on Row 1 of the “Shape neckline + yoke”. In this first row, am I knitting “on to” my circular needle onto the DPN, or “off of” the DPN and onto the circular needle? The way my piece is right now, the only logical thing to do is to knit from circular needle onto the DPN but this is leading to a lot of stitches on one DPN and that doesn’t seem right. Can you advise please? Thank you!!
Hi Batul,
Thanks for writing in again! Over the next few rows in the SHAPE NECKLINE + YOKE section you will be working from both the circular needles and the DPNs, but within each row you should be slipping stitches off of the DPNS and working them on the circular needles so you should not be adding any more stitches onto your DPNs besides what is already on there.
I hope this clarifies things!
All the best,
Gianna
Happy New Year to you! I love the look of this sweater but before I buy the pattern I wonder if you can tell me if it’s suitable for someone who has never knitted a sweater from the top down. Although I have been knitting for many years I have never attempted to knit this way but really like the idea of no seaming! Also, do you know if your yarn is available in the UK? Thanks in advance.
Hi Dawn,
Thanks for reaching out! I think this would be a great project for someone new to the top down process! It is a very straight forward pattern and it is very easy to follow!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am knitting this sweater in ONE color, omitting the purl stitch for back seam and have started the Shape Neckline + yoke section. I have completed the set-up and Row 1, right side and am ready to start Row 2 and I am confused.
1. Even though I’m using one color, do I still work from two balls of yarn, sliding or turning as indicated?
2. It’s not clear to me which rows and where exactly I use the short-row shaping WRP-T technique.
Please clarify. Thank you
Hi Fran,
Thanks for reaching out! Since the pattern only has written instructions for using 2 colors, I would recommend following the steps for working with 2 colors even with 1 and using 2 balls and sliding the work as written to insure that you stay consistent with the pattern!
The short rows are a bit different in this section than a typical wrap and turn technique since all the rows in this section are short rows. To do this, either turn the work as usual for flat knitting or slide the live stitches from one side of the circular needles to the other, as directed. For all Color B rows, you will add stitches from double pointed needles to shape Neckline, and for all Color A rows, you will work even.
I hope this helps clear things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi there. Please could I just check something? I’m on row 3 of shape neckline + yoke. Yarn B is obviously now attached to the 3rd stitch, after slipping 2 from the dpn. Am I just purling stitches 1 +2 with this yarn, as if it’s attached to stitch 1, and that there’s no actual w&t? Thank you! Emma.
Hi Emma,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes that is correct, after you slip 2 stitches from double pointed needle to circular needles, with Color B you will then purl to 1 stitch before next marker and continue on in pattern!
Warmly,
Gianna
Brilliant, thank you! x
I’m working on the short row section–should I be wrapping on the turns? There are special instructions on how to do a wrap-and-turn, but then I don’t see it anywhere in the actual pattern.
Hi faith,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes when it says to turn the work you will work the wrap and turn and then continue knitting!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Should I also incorporate the wrap when I knit/purl across it?
Hi Faith,
Once you finish the shirt row and work across all of the stitches you will then work the stitch with its paired wrap!
Warmly,
Gianna
I want to knit this sweater in one colour so I was wondering how to do the neckline. Do I have to swap the stitches onto dpns as for the stripes or can I keep all the stitches on the right needle and knit the round increasing where instructed?
Also instead of yarn over can I use the German short row method? Thanks.
Hi Jinny,
Thanks for reaching out! You can certainly follow this pattern with one color instead of two! However since this pattern is written for two colors which involves a bit different construction than only using one color, I would suggest still following the patter as written so that there is no confusion with the yoke section!
You could also substitute German Short Rows for the Wrap and Turns, I recommend checking out our Short Rows: German Short Rows tutorial, it will show you how to adapt the German Short Rows for Wrap + Turn instructions.
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi,
Should I wrap and turn only at the end of rows 2 and 4 or the end or all four rows. I’ve just unpicked my first attempt as it looks wrong.
Thanks so much, Sue
Hi Sue,
Thank you for reaching out! We actually just discovered that this is an error in the pattern. For the yoke you are in fact not using wrap and turns, you are simply working back and forth either turning the work or sliding the work!
Sorry for any confusion this has caused, please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Oh that makes perfect sense, I’ll follow the updated pattern. Thank you so much, Sue
I am working on yoke increases for size 64, 67 1/2 and 72 only. For Round 4 we are told to knit to 2 stitches before marker, knit yo through back loop, etc. But the color B row before has no yo’s. Is there a mistake here?
Hi Fran,
Thanks for reaching out and bringing this to our attention! Yes that was a slight typo in the pattern, it should read as follows: Increase Round 4: With Color A, [knit to 1 stitch before next marker, yo, k1, sm, k1, yo] 4 times, knit to last stitch, p1. [8 stitches increased]
I hope this clears things up and my apologies for any confusion!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi there,
I am attempting this pattern for my daughter and I am already stuck at the neckline. I have completed the neckline set up round but do not understand the following instructions – the part where it says to turn the work partway through the round every other round or cannot see how I can work 2 right side rows and then 2 wrong side rows. Is there and online tutorial for this please?
Hi Diane,
Thanks for reaching out! We do not have a tutorial for this technique. It may seem a bit complicated but this is actually very easy! In this section of the pattern, you will be increasing the Yoke by working back and forth in short rows, you will do this by turning the work part way through the round every other round as instructed.
In order to maintain the stripe pattern, you will be working 2 right-side rows followed by 2 wrong-side rows, switching between the two colors every row. To do this, you will work a row with one color, then you will either turn the work as usual for flat knitting, and working back across the stitches now using the other color or you will slide the live stitches from one side of the circular needles to the other, as directed, and then working across the stitches again using the other color!
I hope this clears things up and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Thankyou so much for your response. I have been mulling over this and think I have it sorted – can you just tell me if I am on the right track please. Page 3 –
The stitches that are on the double pointed needles – I use them to slip onto the circular needles so after working the 4 rows three times those stitches will be included in the circular needles . That is only leaving the 14 stitches on the stitch holder for Front Neck and I will work with these on Pg 5 when doing the Increase Yoke.
Does this sound right? Maybe it is because I live down under in New Zealand!!
Hi Diane,
Thanks for your response! Yes, that is correct! I think you are on the right track!
Please let me know if you have any more questions or if anything comes up, I am happy to help!
Gianna
I did it and it is looking wonderful. I am using an Australian Merino and it is knitting up beautifully!
Hi there,
I am at the “increasing the yoke” section of the pattern, and there seems to be sections for all sizes except for the one I am knitting which is the 43. It has a “size 38 1/2 only” section, and then moves straight to “size 47 ¼, 51¾, 56, and 60¼ only.” Is this a typo or am I missing something in the pattern?
Hi Josie,
Thanks for reaching out! This isn’t a typo, for size 43 you simply work the increase yoke section, then once you finish that first section you will skip down past the instructions for the other sizes and continue at the DIVIDE SLEEVES FROM BODY!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
I want to knit this pattern with three colors… is that possible?
Hi Sabine,
I think it’s entirely possible to knit this pattern with three colors. What a nice idea! Since the pattern is written with only 2 colors in mind, you will probably have to adapt the instructions a bit to make it work with 3 instead. As you work with 3 colors, I would make sure to keep in mind the total number of rounds you’ll need to hit for each section, so that your sweater comes out to the proper proportions.
All the best,
Lili
This is knitting up beautifully with Cashmere Merino Bloom, but it’s coming in really big, despite my swatching. I made the second to smallest size, and it’s still huge, but I’m partway done with a sleeve, and I just don’t have the heart to tear it all up and start over. If it has to be a baggy sweater, it has to be, but I’d love it to be smaller—any tips for getting it to shrink up during blocking? Thanks!
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! Have you measured the gauge since starting on the sweater? I am actually working on this sweater myself (in the same size!), and while working I had the same thought that it would be too big. I put the stitches on scrap yarn and tried on the yoke prior to starting the sleeves to check the fit, and it actually fit much better than I was expecting! However, if it happens to fit bigger than you want when finished, you can manipulate the fabric when blocking.
When you block the sweater and are laying it out, you can kind of press the fabric into itself and tap/press out any wrinkles shown to scrunch the sweater up. I recommend having the template of the sweater with the measurements (last page of pattern) on hand so you can shape the sweater into the dimensions listed as best as possible.
I hope this helps, please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Hi Gianna, thanks for the quick response! The gauge is pretty much right on, but when i try it on it’s just baggier than I’d thought it would be, all over—on the model it looks pretty form fitting, even with the yoke stretched out like that, but perhaps that’s because the pictures are all partial views, and none show the whole thing from the front. On me it’s just a different kind of shape than I anticipated, but c’est la vie. It will be very soft and comfortable either way.
I’m a pretty experienced knitter but I’m usually too lazy to block, so I don’t have as much experience there. I was wondering if using very warm water would help shrink things up…is that stupid/crazy? I’ve certainly re-blocked sweaters that got accidentally shrunk (by a bad dry cleaner), so I know things CAN shrink up a lot, but I’m guessing that’s maybe too risky a move. I’ll read the link you shared. Thanks again!
Hi Sarah!
Thanks for your response! When blocking, using warm or hot water can shrink your sweater but it is risky because it is hard to say how much it will shrink, and the worst thing would be to spend the time knitting and then have your sweater turn out unwearable. I would advise against it, but you could always work up a pretty good sized swatch and wash it in warm water and see what the shrinking results are!
A few other tutorials we have that could be useful are the How to Hand Wash A Sweater tutorial (which goes into more detail about blocking sweaters) and the Understanding Ease + Selecting Your Size tutorial!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thanks Gianna! I’ll probably be conservative and not try anything too crazy, and let it just be a baggy sweater—i think i just wildly underestimated how oversized “6-10 inches of ease” would be. Live and learn! If i ever make it again I’ll size down.
Hi,
Is it possible to omit the short rows for the shaping of the neckline and still be able to proceed and if so, after establishing raglan points would I go straight to yoke increases? I was wondering if anyone has knitted this sweater without doing the neck shaping short rows. Thanks!
Hello!
Thank you for your question! The short rows in this sweater allow the garment to not ride up on the neck while it is worn, while also providing some extra length in the front of the sweater for the chest. Because of the vital role these rows play in the structure of the garment, we recommend working this pattern as written with the short rows included, so that your sweater will still fit when you are done!
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Margaret
Hello! I may have missed this in the comments, but what is the preferred cast on method for the collar? Is it long tail?
Thanks!
Hilary
Hi Hilary,
The Long Tail Cast On is a great cast on for the collar, especially since it’s so stretchy! If you’d like to see a tutorial for this technique, we have one here.
I hope this helps, and please feel free to send any other questions our way!
All the best,
Carly
Thank you so much!
Hi,
I am actually knitting this pattern in Buttercup Cotton. I really like the effect, and it fits me perfectly.
I would like to knit a “winter” version of this sweater, in one color, could Line Weight be a good substitute?
I always have to downsize the patterns.
Thanks
Diane
Hi Diane,
I’m so glad to hear that Buttercup Cotton worked well for your version of this pullover! Line Weight would be a great substitute for Buttercup Cotton, as they are both fingering weight yarns. However, I’d make sure to double check the gauge, since wool yarn behaves differently from cotton yarn, so you may need to use different needles to achieve the same gauge.
All the best,
Lili
Thanks!
For the Buttercup version, I get the same number of rows – which is perfect and avoids calculations – and more stitches per 4 inches – which makes the size “automatically” smaller.
The sweater is light and so comfy!
Diane
It worked out great! I did have some “issue” with the wholes at the neck line. Could it be that I did not tight enough the yarn when I turned my work? I will pay attention next time I knit that pattern – which will happen shortly, this time with Linen Quill.
I’m so glad to hear that your newest version of this pattern turned out so well! I agree, the holes you’re finding are likely due to a tension discrepancy when you turned your work. You may be able to fix this by gently tugging on the legs of nearby stitches to distribute the extra length across the adjacent stitches!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
Is there a “trick” to avoid holes when shaping the front neck? i did manage to make the surplus yarn “sink” by pulling it along a row, but it would be nice to avoid that.
I will be knitting a second sweater in one color and I will try to figure out a way of not cutting the yarn. If I get it done right, I will let you know.
In the meantime, do you have any other pattern with the same kind of construction (top down, raglan, short-row shaping) that I can inspire myself from?
Thanks
Diane
Hi Diane,
I think the best way to avoid holes is to pay close attention to your tension as you’re turning your work. And we do indeed have other similar patterns that might interest you! I’ll list some below for you to consider in the meantime:
Top-Down Turtleneck Cardigan
Twisted Rib Pullover
Daily Pullover
Wherefore Art Thou Pullover
Ribbed Raglan Pullover
Pasture Pullover
All the best,
Lili
Thanks! I will pay attention.
Diane
In the “Neckline” and “Notes” section it says “see special instructions”. I don’t see any special instructions in the pattern details anywhere. Am I missing something?
thanks
Hi Pat,
Thanks for reaching out about this! We included the “See Special Instructions” note in error, so we’ve removed it from the PDF. The main pattern includes all the steps of creating the short rows in this pattern (it’s quite an unconventional method, so we’re sure to describe each step in detail, within the pattern itself). Thanks again for bringing this to our attention!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I’m wanting to try making a sweater but these all look very difficult for a first-time sweater knitter (I’ve done several hats, scarves, etc.). What pattern would you recommend for a first sweater? Thanks!
Hi Jen,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend the Top-Down Circular Yoke Pullover as a great first sweater (it was actually one of the first sweaters I ever knit). It’s a great introduction to this popular type of sweater construction!
I hope this helps, and please don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any other questions as you begin your project!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I’m not sure how to make a nice back seem when changing colors. You really don’t show a picture of the total back.
Thank you.
Lidia
Hi Lidia,
Thanks for reaching out! The back of the sweater has a single column of purl stitches down the center. This hides the jog between rounds–while it doesn’t get rid of it completely, it does automatically make the jog much neater and more uniform. Hope this helps you visualize this pattern more clearly!
All the best,
Lili
I’m trying to figure out how to knit the ribbing so it is the same width as the sweater, not cinched at all. How do I know how many stitches to add? I love this pattern btw – making it with 3 colors and it looks so good.
Hi Nic,
Thanks for reaching out! I would not recommend changing the stitch count to do this. Instead, I’d recommend aggressively blocking your finished sweater! Ribbing has the potential of stretching up to the width of regular stockinette, so if you pin the ribbing in place while the sweater is drying, it will stay in that stretched position and be the same width. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
On page 4, Increase Yoke instructions, you have all sizes mentioned except for size 43. I am assuming based on the other instructions, I should be following the size 381/2. Could you please confirm?
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! If you’re knitting size 43, then all you need to do is skip all of the “Size x only” sections. The sizes that are mentioned there require some additional rounds, but size 43 does not. You can skip straight to the DIVIDE SLEEVES FROM BODY section if you’re knitting size 43!
All the best,
Lili
I am working on this sweater, currently in the Yoke section. I have two holes on either side where I rejoined the on-hold Front Neck stitches. How to I avoid these holes?
Hi Jennifer,
Thank you for reaching out! One thing you could try as you begin is to pick up extra stitches at the bottom of the underarm. On the first round, you can decrease back down to the recommended stitch count for your size by knitting those extra stitches with the neighboring stitches. Another thing you could try if you have already begun to work your sleeve is weaving in your tails to close up those holes. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella