Falling Snow Scarf
Our Falling Snow Scarf is the fairest of Fair Isle projects, its sprinkle of storybook-perfect flurries the antidote to any street-level slush piles you may encounter.
Knit in a tube, this scarf is double-cozy with no unsightly wrong side. The Fair Isle pattern has a no-two-are-alike sense of randomness and play, but of course we’d never leave you adrift: The colorwork is all mapped out in both chart and written form.
Gradations of snow and sky are extra lovely in our hand-dyed Posy and Pocket Posy yarns. Choose spare and wintry (like this one!), or go for can’t-wait-for-spring with Main Colors like Pink Papaya or Fern Green. Either way, flurries of stitches are always beautiful!
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Jake Canton. Click here to see even more of Jake’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoFallingSnowScarf, and #PurlSohoPosy. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
To knit your own Falling Snow Scarf you will need…
- Main Color (MC): 7 skeins of Purl Soho’s Posy, 75% superwash merino, 15% cashmere, and 10% nylon. Each skein is 159 yards/ 50 grams; approximately 1075 yards required.
- Contrast Color (CC): 2 skeins of Posy; approximately 186 yards required.
- US 3 (3.25 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- Optional: US 4 (3.5 mm), 16-inch circular needles (see Gauge Note)
- Stitch markers, including a unique one
We used the palette Weathervane Gray for our sample. Choose from nine palettes, shown above from left to right…
Top Row
Weathervane Gray: MC is Weathervane Gray and CC is Heirloom White
Teal Twilight: MC is Teal Twilight and CC is Heirloom White
Fern Green: MC is Fern Green and CC is Mourning Dove
Middle Row
Black Cherry: MC is Black Cherry and CC is Mourning Dove
Winter Heath: MC is Winter Heath and CC is Mourning Dove
Sour Gooseberry: MC is Sour Gooseberry and CC is Heirloom White
Bottom Row
Chili Pepper: MC is Chilli Pepper and CC is Mourning Dove
Pink Papaya: MC is Pink Papaya and CC is Heirloom White
Marigold Orange: MC is Marigold Orange and CC is Mourning Dove
Gauge
- 26 stitches and 31 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, using smaller needles
- 26 stitches and 31 rounds = 4 inches in Colorwork Pattern, using larger needles
NOTE: Some knitters require larger needles for the Colorwork Pattern to be the same gauge as the stockinette stitch. Please be sure to swatch both stitch patterns to determine the correct needle size to use for each.
Size
- Unblocked Dimensions: 8 inches wide x 66 inches long
- Blocked Dimensions: 8 inches wide x 68 inches long
Pattern
Begin
Using smaller needles (if using two needle sizes, see Gauge Note) and Contrast Color (CC), cast on 112 stitches. Place unique stitch marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch, knitting every stitch, for 3 rounds.
Work Colorwork Pattern A
NOTE: The Colorwork Pattern is worked over a 16-stitch repeat and repeats 7 times around the circumference of the scarf. To help keep track of the pattern, place a stitch marker before the first stitch of each repeat.
Change to larger needles (if using two needle sizes).
Work Rounds 1–71 of Colorwork Pattern A, working from either the following chart or written instructions.
Chart
NOTE: For the chart, work each round from right to left, beginning with Round 1 at the bottom and repeating each line 7 times to the end of the round.
Written Instructions
Round 1: *With Main Color (MC), k1; with CC, k7, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 2: With CC, knit to end of round.
Round 3: *With CC, k4; with MC, k1; with CC, k7; with MC, k1; with CC, k3, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 4: With CC, knit to end of round.
Round 5: *With CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k7; with MC, k1; with CC, k5, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 6: *With CC, k5; with MC, k1; with CC, k7; with MC, k1; with CC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 7: With CC, knit to end of round.
Round 8: With CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k5; with MC, k1; with CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k4; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 9: With CC, knit to end of round.
Round 10: *[With CC, k4; with MC, k1] twice; with CC, k3; with MC, k1; with CC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 11: With CC, knit to end of round.
Round 12: *With CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k3; with MC, k1; with CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k3; with MC, k1; with CC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 13: With CC, knit to end of round.
Round 14: *With MC, k1; [with CC, k2; with MC, k1] twice; with CC, k3; [with MC, k1; with CC, k2] twice, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 15: With CC, knit to end of round.
Round 16: *With CC, k4; [with MC, k1; with CC, k3] twice; [with MC, k1; with CC, k1] twice, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 17: *With CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k7; with MC, k1; with CC, k5, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 18: With CC, knit to end of round.
Round 19: *With CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k4; with MC, k1; with CC, k7; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 20: *[With MC, k1; with CC, k4] twice; [with MC, k1; with CC, k2] twice, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 21: *[With CC, k3; with MC, k1] twice; with CC, k7; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 22: *With CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k7; with MC, k1; with CC, k3; with MC, k1; with CC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 23: *With CC, k3; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k5; with MC, k1; with CC, k3; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 24: *With CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k4; with MC, k1; with CC, k6; with MC, k1; with CC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 25: *With MC, k1; with CC, k3; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; [with MC, k1; with CC, k4] twice, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 26: *With CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k6; with MC, k1; with CC, k3; with MC, k1; with CC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 27: *With CC, k4; with MC, k1; [with CC, k2; with MC, k1] twice; with CC, k3; with MC, k1; with CC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 28: *With MC, k1; [with CC, k2; with MC, k1] twice; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k2; with MC, k2; with CC, k2; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 29: *With CC, k1; with MC, k2; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k3; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k1: with CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 30: *[With CC, k1; with MC, k1] twice; [with CC, k2; with MC, k1] twice; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 31: *[With MC, k1; with CC, k1] twice; with MC, k2; with CC, k4; with MC, k1; with CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 32: *With CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k2; with MC, k3: with CC, k2; with MC, k2; with CC, k1; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 33: *With MC, k2; with CC, k1; with MC, k5; with CC, k1; with MC, k2; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k3, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 34: *With CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k2; with MC, k2; with CC, k1; with MC, k4; [with CC, k1; with MC, k1] twice, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 35: *With MC, k2; with CC, k2; with MC, k1; With CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k3; [with MC, k1; with CC, k1] twice; with MC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 36: *With CC, k1; with MC, k4; with CC, k2; with MC, k3; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k2; with CC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 37: *With MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k5; with CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k3; with CC, k1; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 38: *With CC, k1; with MC, k2; with CC, k1; [with MC, k1; with CC, k1] twice; with MC, k4; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 39: *With MC, k1; with CC, k1; [with MC, k2; with CC, k2] twice; with MC, k1; with CC, k2; with MC, k2; with CC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 40: *With MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k4; with CC, k1; with MC, k3; with CC, k1; with MC, k2; with CC, k1; with MC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 41: *With MC, k3; with CC, k1; [with MC, k5; with CC, k1] twice, repeat from * end of round.
Round 42: *With MC, k5; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k3; with CC, k1; with MC, k4, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 43: *With MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k7; with CC, k1; with MC, k3; with CC, k1; with MC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 44: *With MC, k3; with CC, k1; with MC, k2; with CC, k1; with MC, k8; with CC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 45: *With CC, k1; with MC, k4; with CC, k1; with MC, k2; with CC, k1; with MC, k5; with CC, k1; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 46: *With MC, k3; with CC, k1; with MC, k7; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 47: *With MC, k4; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k2; with CC, k1; with MC, k5; with CC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 48: *With MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k6; with CC, k1; with MC, k2; with CC, k1; with MC, k4, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 49: With MC, knit to end of round.
Round 50: *With CC, k1; [with MC, k2; with CC, k1] twice; with MC, k6; with CC, k1; with MC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 51: With MC, knit to end of round.
Round 52: *With MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k7; with CC, k1; with MC, k4; with CC, k1; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 53: With MC, knit to end of round.
Round 54: *With MC, k6; with CC, k1; with MC, k4; with CC, k1; with MC, k3; with CC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 55: With MC, knit to end of round.
Round 56: *With CC, k1; with MC, k7, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 57 and 58: With MC, knit to end of round.
Round 59: *With MC, k5; with CC, k1; with MC, k7; with CC, k1; with MC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 60 and 61: With MC, knit to end of round.
Round 62: *With MC, k3; with CC, k1; with MC, k7; with CC, k1; with MC, k4, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 63 and 64: With MC, knit to end of round.
Round 65: *With MC, k7; with CC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 66 and 67: With MC, knit to end of round.
Round 68: *With MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k2; [with CC, k1; with MC, k5] twice, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 69 and 70: With MC, knit to end of round.
Round 71: *With CC, k1; with MC, k7; with CC, k1; with MC, k4; with CC, k1; with MC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Cut CC.
Work Middle Section
Change to smaller needles.
With MC, work in stockinette stitch until the piece measures 56 inches from cast-on edge, with edge rolled.
Work Colorwork Pattern B
Change to larger needles (if using two needle sizes).
Work Rounds 1–71 of Colorwork Pattern B, working from either the following chart or written instructions.
Chart
NOTE: Remember to start the chart with Round 1 at the bottom and work each round from right to left, repeating the pattern 7 times around.
Colorwork Pattern B
Round 1: *With CC, k1; with MC, k7; with CC, k1; with MC, k4; with CC, k1; with MC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 2 and 3: With MC, knit to end of round.
Round 4: *With MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k2; [with CC, k1; with MC, k5] twice, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 5 and 6: With MC, knit to end of round.
Round 7: *With MC, k7; with CC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 8 and 9: With MC, knit to end of round.
Round 10: *With MC, k3; with CC, k1; with MC, k7; with CC, k1; with MC, k4, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 11 and 12: With MC, knit to end of round.
Round 13: *With MC, k5; with CC, k1; with MC, k7; with CC, k1; with MC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 14 and 15: With MC, knit to end of round.
Round 16: *With CC, k1; with MC, k7, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 17: With MC, knit to end of round.
Round 18: *With MC, k6; with CC, k1; with MC, k4; with CC, k1; with MC, k3; with CC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 19: With MC, knit to end of round.
Round 20: *With MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k7; with CC, k1; with MC, k4; with CC, k1; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 21: With MC, knit to end of round.
Round 22: *With CC, k1; [with MC, k2; with CC, k1] twice; with MC, k6; with CC, k1; with MC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 23: With MC, knit to end of round.
Round 24: *With MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k6; with CC, k1; with MC, k2; with CC, k1; with MC, k4, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 25: *With MC, k4; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k2; with CC, k1; with MC, k5; with CC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 26: *With MC, k3; with CC, k1; with MC, k7; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 27: *With CC, k1; with MC, k4; with CC, k1; with MC, k2; with CC, k1; with MC, k5; with CC, k1; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 28: *With MC, k3; with CC, k1; with MC, k2; with CC, k1; with MC, k8; with CC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 29: *With MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k7; with CC, k1; with MC, k3; with CC, k1; with MC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 30: *With MC, k5; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k3; with CC, k1; with MC, k4, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 31: *With MC, k3; with CC, k1; [with MC, k5; with CC, k1] twice, repeat from * end of round.
Round 32: *With MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k4; with CC, k1; with MC, k3; [with CC, k1; with MC, k2] twice, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 33: *With MC, k1; with CC, k1; [with MC, k2; with CC, k2] twice; with MC, k1; with CC, k2; with MC, k2; with CC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 34: *With CC, k1; with MC, k2; with CC, k1; [with MC, k1; with CC, k1] twice; with MC, k4; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 35: *With MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k5; with CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k3; with CC, k1; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 36: *With CC, k1; with MC, k4; with CC, k2; with MC, k3; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k2; with CC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 37: *With MC, k2; with CC, k2; with MC, k1; With CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k3; [with MC, k1; with CC, k1] twice; with MC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 38: *With CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k2; with MC, k2; with CC, k1; with MC, k4; [with CC, k1; with MC, k1] twice, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 39: *With MC, k2; with CC, k1; with MC, k5; with CC, k1; with MC, k2; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k3, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 40: *With CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k2; with MC, k3: with CC, k2; with MC, k2; with CC, k1; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 41: *[With MC, k1; with CC, k1] twice; with MC, k2; with CC, k4; with MC, k1; with CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 42: *[With CC, k1; with MC, k1] twice; [with CC, k2; with MC, k1] twice; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 43: *With CC, k1; with MC, k2; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k3; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k1: with CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 44: *With MC, k1; [with CC, k2; with MC, k1] twice; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k2; with MC, k2; with CC, k2; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 45: *With CC, k4; with MC, k1; [with CC, k2; with MC, k1] twice; with CC, k3; with MC, k1; with CC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 46: *With CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k6; with MC, k1; with CC, k3; with MC, k1; with CC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 47: *With MC, k1; with CC, k3; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; [with MC, k1; with CC, k4] twice, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 48: *With CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k4; with MC, k1; with CC, k6; with MC, k1; with CC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 49: *With CC, k3; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k5; with MC, k1; with CC, k3; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 50: *With CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k7; with MC, k1; with CC, k3; with MC, k1; with CC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 51: *[With CC, k3; with MC, k1] twice; with CC, k7; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 52: *With MC, k1; [with CC, k4; with MC, k1] twice; with CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 53: *With CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k4; with MC, k1; with CC, k7; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 54: With CC, knit to end of round
Round 55: *With CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k7; with MC, k1; with CC, k5, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 56: *With CC, k4; with MC, k1; with CC, k3; with MC, k1; with CC, k3; [with MC, k1; with CC, k1] twice, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 57: With CC, knit to end of round.
Round 58: *With MC, k1; [with CC, k2; with MC, k1] twice; with CC, k3; [with MC, k1; with CC, k2] twice, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 59: With CC, knit to end of round.
Round 60: *With CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k3; with MC, k1; with CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k3; with MC, k1; with CC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 61: With CC, knit to end of round.
Round 62: *[With CC, k4; with MC, k1] twice; with CC, k3; with MC, k1; with CC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 63: With CC, knit to end of round.
Round 64: With CC, k1; with MC, k1; with CC, k5; with MC, k1; with CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k4; with MC, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 65: With CC, knit to end of round.
Round 66: *With CC, k5; with MC, k1; with CC, k7; with MC, k1; with CC, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 67: *With CC, k2; with MC, k1; with CC, k7; with MC, k1; with CC, k5, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 68: With CC, knit to end of round.
Round 69: *With CC, k4; with MC, k1; with CC, k7; with MC, k1; with CC, k3, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 70: With CC, knit to end of round.
Round 71: *With MC, k1; with CC, k7, repeat from * to end of round.
Work Last Section
Change to smaller needles (if using two needle sizes).
Knit 3 rounds.
Bind off loosely.
Finish
Weave in ends, wet block flat, and enjoy!
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What size needles are you recommending? I know it is to reach gauge — but I’d like to order the needles with the bundle. Thanks.
Hello Jane,
Thank you for reaching out! We used a US#3 16″ circular needle for this project.
Happy knitting,
-Marilla
Hi. This pattern looks very pretty. However, I prefer to work with yarns with natural fibers only. Would the Line Weight work with this pattern or could you suggest something else?
Hello Cynthia,
Thank you for reaching out! You could certainly knit this up in Line Weight or Linen Quill.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Your pattern says to bind off loosely. If I were to do that I would have an opening at each end of the tube. How do you close the opening? I’ve never bound off a tube. Would I use the three needle bind off? But looking at the photo it doesn’t look like a 3 needle bind off. I’m confused on how to do the bind off after reading your instructions.
Hello Susan,
Thank you for reaching out! You are correct, we do not close up the tube in the pattern. This means you will have an opening at each end, but not to worry, your scarf will still lay flat.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Because it’s knit in stockinette stitch, the ends do not lie flat. They curl. I am knitting mine now, so I know first-hand. When it is done, I’m going to sew up both ends with a whip stitch. I am hoping this will make the ends lie flat.
I think if the first few rows were alternating between knit & purl tows, then it would lie flat .
Love the pattern. How do you recommend carrying the long floats as this can cause puckering?
Hi Jane,
Thanks for reaching out! For this pattern, you should just be able to leave the floats as loose as possible – since the finished scarf is a tube, the wrong side will not be exposed so you don’t have to worry about unsecured floats catching or snagging on anything. To keep long floats loose, I like to keep my needles spread out on the right hand needle so the yarn has to travel further to get to the stitch being worked, and will even give the float a tug before moving on to make it a little looser. It does take a bit of extra time and care, but fortunately there are only a few rows with 7 stitch floats!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello,
How does posy knit, wash, and dry compared to Anzula?
Also, how warm is this scarf? Would it be similar to a thicker yarn because it is a tube? Thanks for your help!
Hi Katrina,
Thanks for reaching out! Although the fiber content is almost the same for both Posy and Anzula yarns, the yarn construction is different and I find it to be a bit loftier and have more of a matte appearance with a bit of halo when knitted. We have found that it holds up very well to a cold machine wash and low dryer, but you could also hand wash this scarf if you prefer. The tube construction does result in a warmer scarf than you would expect for a fingering weight scarf, because not only are there two layers of knitted fabric, there is some room between the two layers to trap a bit of air, providing a nice insulating effect!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Love this pattern. Thank you for making it available for free. Is it possible for you to make the number of pages smaller? A 20 page print out seems excessive. I do realize it is both written and charted , but could you make a 3 or 4 page charted only pattern?
Thanks! 🙂
Hi Chris,
Thanks for reaching out! You can actually customize how much of the pattern to print out using our print feature. If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi, I’m thinking I could also work this pattern (not in a tube) by casting on half the stitches and following only half the chart right to left? Are you carrying the dark yarn over the light yarn those 7 stitches to start; wouldn’t want the float to show through? Thank you.
Hi Audrey,
Thanks for writing in! If you are going to work this pattern back and forth in rows, you will have to read the odd numbered rows from right to left and the even rows from left to right. Keep in mind however that since this is stockinette stitch, the scarf will most likely roll into a tube unless you add a border of seed or garter stitch. You will be carrying the dark color behind the white at all times; however, since the gauge is fairly dense, the float shouldn’t show from the right side.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Great point Julianna, of course I hadn’t thought of that. Tube it will be since I want to keep the integrity of this gorgeous pattern. I appreciate your response, Thank You.
I was thinking the same thing, Audrey, but I shall now adopt your final answer: “A tube it will be!”
Could you explain how to carry the two colors throughout the colorwork?
Hi Edwina,
Thanks for reaching out! There two main methods for working Fair Isle or stranded colorwork. The most common would probably be to carry both yarns together in your right hand or left hand, whichever hand you normally carry your yarn in. If you are familiar with both English and Continental knitting styles, another option is to hold one color in each hand. For both techniques, you will then follow the chart, knitting each stitch with the indicated color, to create the colorwork pattern.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Lovely! Does scarf have a right side and a wrong side? I am trying to picture the carried thread.
Hi Barb,
Thanks so much for the kind words! The pattern does have a wrong side; however, since the scarf is a tube knitted in the round, the wrong side will be completely hidden inside of the scarf.
Best,
Julianna
I would like to make this scarf in a midnight blue/ivory yarn combination vs the grey. Any suggestions? Thanks for your help.
Hi Cynthia,
Thanks for reaching out! For a good navy, I would suggest substituting either Brooklyn Tweed Peerie or Woolfolk Tynd. Both yarns are the correct weight for the pattern and come in a color range that includes several navy or dark blue options!
Best,
Julianna
Like Diane and Cynthia, I’d also like to knit this up in a blue other than the greenish-teal offered in Posy. I checked the yardage and weight of the Line Weight (100 g/494 yds), Tynd (50 g/223 yds or 100g/446 yds) and the Peerie (50 g/210 yds or 100 g/420 yds), they just don’t seem equivalent to the Posy’s 100 g/318 yds. I’d also love a recommendation that is not 100% wool. Something uber soft against my neck would be delightful. That considered, do you have other recommendations?
Hi Carrie,
Thanks for reaching out! There are quite a few factors that go into a yarn’s grist, or yards per pound, such as density, type of spin, or different types of animal fibers like wool vs. cashmere, so it’s not always the best way to compare yarns. It is not uncommon that yarns with different yards per pound will still knit up to the same gauge! Of the yarns you mention, Line Weight is a light fingering weight yarn so it knits up to a different gauge than Posy and would be a bit thin for this pattern, but both Tynd and Peerie are best on a US 2-4 needle and should work out wonderfully in this scarf. Another option that is a wool blend would be Manos del Uruguay Fino!
Best,
Julianna
Thank you, Julianna. So, I think I’ll be going with the Tynd (but maybe the Peerie) but now I’m wondering how many skeins I may need since you indicated yardage isn’t always the best way to compare. Will 3 skeins still do or should I get more? I’m thinking I may need 4 or 5. Thanks!
Hi Carrie,
Although yards per pound doesn’t always factor into what gauge a yarn will knit up to, yardage is the most accurate way to make sure you have enough yarn to complete a project! As long as you are knitting to the correct gauge, the yardage required to knit something doesn’t vary too much, so you will need about 1,075 yards of MC and 186 yards of CC of either yarn. It can’t hurt to get more, however, and any unwound yarn can be returned for store credit if you don’t need it!
Best,
Julianna
This is beautiful and I’ve never done it before. Is it considered intarsia? What do you do with the floats on the early rows where the cc’s are far apart? Since the yarn is hand-dyed, does it need to be re-fixed? So. Many. Questions.
Hi Ruth,
Thanks for reaching out! This method is actually Fair Isle or stranded colorwork – you will be carrying both yarns throughout each row. In intarsia, which is used for larger color motifs, you do not carry the color you are not using behind the work and instead work from separate balls of yarn for each color block. In those early rows, you should just be able to leave the floats as loose as possible – since the finished scarf is a tube, the wrong side will not be exposed so you don’t have to worry about unsecured floats catching or snagging on anything. We haven’t had any complaints of Posy bleeding and do work closely with our mill to do lots of quality control checks, but it’s never a bad idea to re-fix hand dyed yarn to be on the safe side! Our Re-Fixing Dye tutorial has lots of information on how to do so.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thanks for the response. I brought up the re-fixing because on the beautiful Muhuroosa Blanket that I made with Posy, it was absolutely a recommendation. As always, this scarf pattern is beautiful.
If I purchase a bundle, is pattern included a download or printed?
Hi Remona,
Thanks for writing in! Although we do not include a pattern with our bundles, because it is available for free right here, if you drop us a note in the comments section of your order we would be happy to print a copy for you!
Best,
Julianna
Hello,
Love this pattern! I too, am tempted to make this in line weight. The skein yardage between the line weight and posy is different. Would you mind letting me know the actual yardage required for the project so I can check my stash?
Thanks again for another awesome project!
Hi Sarah,
Great question! We used 954 yards of the main color and 186 yards of the contrast color for our sample.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
This is really an eye-catching pattern. It would be great to have it in matching mitten and hat patterns, too.
Hi Dianne,
Thanks for the brilliant suggestion – I’ll be sure to pass it along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Is this pattern reversible or only one-sided?
Thank you.
Hi Carol,
Thanks for writing in! This stitch pattern does have a definite right and wrong side; however, since the scarf is knit as a tube, the wrong side will be hidden and only the right side will show.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi there,
Beautiful pattern! If I would like to make the scarf wider, almost like a shawl, how many stitches and yardage should I acquire? It says 16 stitches repeat, is that true that I can cast on multiples of 16?
Thanks!
Hi Anna,
Thanks so much for the kind words! Yes, you can cast on any multiple of 16. For a shawl, I would suggest at least doubling the cast on to 224 stitches, which will result in a 16 inch wide wrap. You will also need to purchase two bundles.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
What am I missing. I can’t find where it says to join the yarn to make a tube. Also the price of the kit s very expensive for a scarf. ..what else is affordable and similar without the cashmere blend. I still a new quilter and do not have a “stash “
Hi Judith,
Great question! For this lovely scarf, you will going in the round right after finishing your cast on and placing a unique marker for the beginning of the round! This instruction is in the first paragraph under the “Begin” heading!
We totally understand that sometimes our yarn suggestions are more of an inspiration than a reality for many people. We are always happy to recommend less expensive (but still beautiful!) alternatives. In this case, we suggest that you try Linen Quill. You will need 3 skeins of the main color and 1 of the contrast color. As with any yarn substitution, you will want to knit a gauge swatch before beginning!
Best,
Cassy
Best,
Cassy
I was wondering for the recommended needle size,what weight yarn(yarns) works best for pattern gauge,size. And would a soft mohair type work too, to get pattern and gauge correct, or would that be too soft?
tx,your directions are beautiful for beginners and very accurate which helps with a project like this.
Hi Jen,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for writing in! This scarf calls for a fingering weight yarn. While you could probably get the correct gauge using mohair such as Tussock, you would probably lose the definition of the colorwork. Instead, if you would like to have the fluffy texture of mohair, I would suggest holding a strand of Tussock along with Posy so that you can still see the colorwork pattern clearly.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
This pattern is beautiful! I can not do cashmere, merino wool works, however. What yarn would you suggest? Thank you!
Hi Diane,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for reaching out! I would suggest substituting either Line Weight or Brooklyn Tweed Peerie for a 100% merino option.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Every time some-one offers one of your patterns on the knitting forum I belong to, I know immediately it is by Purl Soho with only an image to go by. ……one day I am hoping to get to your store in America.
Hi i love this beautiful pattern and i was thinking as my friend is pregnant with her first baby that this would make a wonderful gift as a blanket, could you please advise the best number of stitches please as i would knit it in the round as recommended it truly is lovely! Thank you so much!
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing in – what a lovely idea to turn this into a blanket! I would suggest starting with 336 stitches for a 32 inch wide baby blanket. The colorwork chart measures about 9 inches when it is complete, so you will probably only want to do about 14 inches of the main color in the middle before working the second chart. I would also recommend crocheting or stitching the ends closed and adding a few quilter’s ties or some sort of stitch to tack the two layers together periodically throughout the blanket once it is finished.
Best of luck, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Thank you so much i really appreciate the help and i will certainly let you know how it turns out, thank you again i love your patterns theyre so beautiful.
I would like to purchase the kit for this scarf-but it’s out of stock. Can you send the yarn other than in the kit? (Of weathervane gray). Or will it be available soon? Thanks, looking foreword to this lovely project.
Hi Helen,
Thanks for reaching out! Due to the popularity of this scarf we are completely out of Posy in Weathervane Gray! While we do not have an ETA, you can sign up to be notified when we get it back in. To do so, you will go to the product page for either Posy or for the Falling Snow Scarf Bundle, select the color you would like and enter your email address. We will then email you as soon as we get it back in stock!
Best,
Julianna
Hi!
I love this scarf so much but missed the boat on ordering before the Weathervane gray color sold out! I was viewing other colors/yarns on your website and wondered if the Cloud Anzula yarn in Elephant would be a good substitute. Or, if there is a better option with another yarn, I would be curious about that as well! If I do go with another yarn choice (instead of waiting until the Posy Weathervane comes back in stock) do you suggest still using the Pocket Posy in Heirloom white? Thank you!
Hello Adrienne,
Thank you for reaching out! Anzula’s Cloud is going to have a smaller gauge than Posy, so I would actually reccomend knitting the whole project in Cloud if you go that Direction. Anzula is going to have the most similar look to our cloud when finished so I think It’s a great option!
I hope this helps and let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Hi,
I saw you had recommended a less expensive yarn in an earlier comment (linen quill). I really like the looks of this yarn and am interested in this substitution for the scarf. Do you have any color ideas? I really liked lychee pink and and pale oats. Would this work for the pattern? Do you have any other suggestions?
Hello Cathy,
Thank you for reaching out! I love the idea of Lychee Pink and Pale Oats. I think that Peach Stone and Oatmeal Gray would be another nice option.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Could you please tell me the yardage of the yarn for the scarf. One if my classes went to make it and I need to substitute the yarn
Thanks
Judy
Hello Judy,
Thank you for reaching out! For this project you will need 1075 yards for your main color and 186 yards for your contrast color.
-Marilla
At last, last week I got to make the pilgrimage to your New York store. What an inspiration! Since it was snowing outside, I was delighted to find the aptly named Falling Snow scarf sample, and purchased the supplies necessary to knit it, along with other knitting and sewing patterns. It was also great to know that you will wind purchased skeins into balls. Loved, loved, loved the store. Can’t wait to return.
As I knit from written instructions, it seems that Round 6 and Round 67 are duplicates of round 5 and 66. That would put some “snow” together which would look like a mistake. I plan to skip those 2 rounds so that there’s no “pooling” of colors….
Thoughts?
Hi Wendy,
Thanks for reaching out! Although rows 5 and 6 are nearly the same, they are just different enough that the colors won’t pool! Row 5 begins with k2 and row 6 begins with k5, which will offset the main color stitches from the previous row. Rounds 66 and 67 are intentionally the same – as the snow stitches spread out, there are some rows that are entirely either MC or CC.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I love your site and generous free patterns and I can’t wait to begin this scarf. I am wondering if an all knit pattern is actually a garter stitch with all the bumps; I was taught knit one row, purl one row produced a stockinette stitch? Am I thinking of something else? Thank you
Hi Lou,
Great question! While stockinette stitch, which has a flat side and a bumpy side, is created by alternating knit and purl rows when you are knitting flat, when you are knitting in the round as you do for this scarf, stockinette is created by knitting every round. Since the right or flat side of the fabric is always facing you, there is no need to purl.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I just started this scarf last night. It’s my first color work piece and I’m so glad that you provided written as well as charted directions. Yes it is a lot of paper, but my printer does 2 sided printing so that helps. I’m really happy with how it’s starting to look. I have only done 7 rows of the pattern so far and can’t wait to see how this comes out.
Could you please make this printable?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for writing in! We have a handy print feature for all of our patterns! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments. Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
Best,
Cassy
Hi, I am about 5 inches into the solid section. My end is very curly. Will this relax after blocking? Or what should I do to fix this? I am thinking of undoing it all and restarting. Please advise!!
Hello Cindy,
Thank you for reaching out! Sometimes if your gauge is to tight it can create extra curling, but as long as you are on gauge your fabric will relax and lay flat after blocking.
Good luck and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thanks! I will double check the gauge and maybe start over if I am off a lot. Otherwise I won’t fret! I love this yarn.
i think this scarf is beautiful. thank you for making it available. i am thinking of making it for a family. do you have suggestions for converting to toddler/youth size. thx
Hello Cindy,
Thank you for reaching out! The first step is deciding on your desired dimensions. Once you decide on this you will base your cast on, on this number. You will just want to be sure to cast on a multiple of 16.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
hi i am on row 38, it’s beginning to have the MC be more dominant than the CC. because the pattern had more white to start, i had that in my left hand and navy in the rt hand. as navy becomes more dominant, i am tempted to switch navy to the left and white to the right, can you give me some advice, or characterize the implications. many thanks
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for reaching out! Switching which color you hold as dominant about halfway through the chart will result in a more consistent look, although it’s certainly not necessary! Holding the color that was predominant in the pattern in your left hand makes the solitary and sparse stitches of the other color stand out less for an overall more blended appearance, so switching as the pattern shifts will continue to create a blended, slightly less contrasted look. If you continue to hold the white in your left hand, as it becomes more sparse in the chart, those stitches will stand out more against the background. The effect is very subtle, however, so you could go either way!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Could you close the tube using the kitchener stitch?
Thanks,
Sandy
Hello Sandra,
Thank you for reaching out! You certainly can use kitchener stitch to close up your tube. You will need to use a provisional cast on so that then you want to close up your cast on side you will be able to work with live stitches.
I see someone asked several months ago, but I would love to have a matching hat pattern!
Hi Nadine,
Thanks for reaching out! I will certainly pass your request along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Another lovely design and pattern by Jake Canton. I would like to see a feature article about him. I view him as a new Stephen West, who was my go-to designer for knitted accessories until he turned too radical for my more conservative taste..
Love the pattern…I want to make this for my wife….BUT….she is allergic to wool of any kind. Do you have an alternative yarn, size, and colors?
Thanks,
Bill
Hi Bill,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for reaching out! I would consider knitting this scarf out of Burnish, which is 100% bamboo, in Prussian Blue and Swan White. It knits up to the same gauge as Posy so you shouldn’t need to make any pattern adjustments, and you will need 4 skeins of Prussian Blue and 1 skein of Swan White.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
What did you do to keep the cast on edge and the bind off edge from curling up, which plain stockinette stitch always does, no matter the yarn, the type or cast on or any other factor?
Hello Mary,
Thank you for reaching out! After completing this project it was wet blocked which relaxes the fibers helping them to lay flat.
Good luck and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi Mary
I added three rows of garter stitch at both ends (well, at the beginning anyways, I’m still knitting 😉 ) – looks good and no curling. If anybody should ask, I’ll say it’s a snow drift – the fallling snow needs to go somewhere, doesn’t it? 😀
Cast it on tonight in the fabulous weathervane colourway! Love the knit. Thank you PurlSoho for another great pattern. ?
Do you have a tutorial for this project.? Are you carrying the unused yarn along or letting it drop until required for pattern?
Hi Sue,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have a tutorial for this pattern, but I will certainly pass your request along to the design team! When working stranded knitting like this, you will be carrying both yarns in the back throughout the row, but for small floats, you don’t need to do anything special besides make sure you don’t pull the float tight. Anywhere you are knitting 5 or more stitches of one color, you will need to twist your yarns together in the middle to secure the float in the back of the work.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Beautiful pattern!
The instructions after you’ve finished the falling snow part simply say to “cut CC and work middle section”. How do I tie or bind off the contrast color? Thank you! 🙂
Hi Victoria,
Thanks for reaching out! At this point, you will cut your CC, leaving about a 6-7 inch tail, and weave in your ends using one of the methods from our Weaving In Your Ends tutorial. I would probably use the diagonal method for this scarf!
Best,
Julianna
I am working this scarf in the round. And my cast on edge is rolling…. should I have done a rib?
Hi Evelyn,
Thanks for reaching out! It is totally normal for the edges of the scarf to curl slightly – you can even see a bit of curling in our pictures! After blocking, the ends should lay much flatter, but if they still curl more than you would like, you can always sew or crochet the ends of the tube shut.
Best,
Julianna
Hi, there. 🙂 I would like to make this scarf a little more narrow, possibly with bigger needles and thicker yarn. Could you give me the ‘multiples of’ that the pattern will work in? Thank you!
Hi Leah,
Thanks for reaching out! This scarf can be knit on any multiple of 16 stitches.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
The yarn tag suggests alternating skeins every row or two to avoid color pooling. Do you suggest doing that for the middle section? I’m using the same colors shown here. If I should alternate skeins, any tips for doing so?
Hi Meghan,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, some knitters have experienced pooling in the middle portion of this scarf, so if you don’t like the appearance of pooling, I would recommend alternating skeins. Since it is knit in the round, you can work from two skeins and switch at the beginning of every round, carrying your tails up the inside of the scarf.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello,
I understand about carrying the floats and locking them down. What I would like to know, is on the rows where there is no CC, do you drop the CC for that row or do you carry it and secure it for the entire row so that there is no carrying up from the row below. Thanks.
Hi Patti!
Great question! We dropped the contrast color on rows where it wasn’t used, and then picked it back up when it was used again. As all the floats are inside the tube of the scarf, there’s no worry about a longer float catching on anything. Thanks for reaching out – happy knitting!
Best,
Cassandra
I would like to crochet this pattern as knitting and I have a love / hate relationship. I love the look but hate to knit. I am thinking of following the chart, keeping the same multiples of 16, and using a fingering weight or similar type yarn. Any ideas,thoughts,suggestions before I attempt would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Carrie,
Thank you for writing in! I’m so excited to hear that you’ll be trying your hand at translating this to crochet- how adventurous! It sounds like you have a clear plan laid out and are ready to attempt. Crochet requires about 30% more yarn per project than knitting, so just make sure you have around 1300 yards of your MC and 220 yards of your CC to be safe. My only other recommendation is to make a little swatch from the chart to see if you like the look of it and to get your gauge just right. I hope you’ll let us know how this all turns out- best of luck!
Happy crocheting!
Gaby
I just wanted to let you know that I made this as cowl only using the first part of the pattern and more stitches CO across, and it turned out amazing! Thank you so much for this pattern! Currently doing the scarf for a Christmas gift!!
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! Wow, that is such a creative idea! We would love to see this, if you are on instagram you can share a picture of your work with us by tagging us at @purlsohobusyhands or using #purlsohobusyhands
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi Lisa, this is exactly what I want to do! How many stitches did you cast on for your cowl? How did you carry the yarn? I was thinking that it might be best to catch every other stitch as in fair isle knitting so that the inside of the cowl is cleaner. Any thoughts?
Hi, I would like to knit this scarf in the main color and contrast color indicated for this pattern, the weathervane gray and heirloom white. Do you have the Posy available? I don’t see it on your website. What is an alternative yarn with the same color scheme?
Thanks
Donna
Hi Donna,
Thanks for reaching out! We’re currently in the process of transitioning our full size Posy and Pocket Posy skeins into 50g skeins this year. We’re hoping to launch this new size around mid-spring but in the meantime we’re having a clearance sale for any remaining colors. If it’s not on the website at this time, I’m afraid we’re out of it until then.
Alternatively, I would recommend checking out Line Weight! It is a slightly thinner yarn so i suggest working a gauge swatch prior to beginning! You could also use Linen Quill or HARRISVILLE DESIGNS Shetland!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
I’m loving this pattern. I would like to close up the ends. Any advice on doing that?
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for writing in! There are a few options that might be useful for you to close up the ends of this scarf. First, if you’re working with the live stitches, then you could use the kitchener stitch to bind them together. If you’re working with a cast-on or bind-off edge, however, then I’d recommend seaming the two sides together horizontally. I’ve included links to our tutorials for the two techniques I’ve mentioned. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks! I’m loving this pattern!
Dear Purl
Love your products and projects …just finished the Floret Scarf in Cotton Pure , Wild Lavender…looking for my next adventure
I have 3 skeins of Cotton Pure , Wild Lavender and 1 Skein of
Mulberry Merino in Red Plum…1,084 total yards..love these colors…any suggestions to use these yarns for another project would be greatly appreciated! Thanks sooo much for many hours of enjoyment…stay well and safe
Hi Elaine,
Thanks for writing in! I am so glad to hear that you enjoyed the Floret Scarf and Cotton Pure! For the remaining 3 skeins, I would suggest our lovely Rose Stitch Dishtowel, Soft Cotton Washcloths, or if you want to acquire an additional 3 skeins in a contrasting color you could make the Latticework Wrap!
For the Mulberry Merino, I would recommend the Lovely Ribbed Hat!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi, I love this pattern so much, thank you so much for all your generous free patterns!!! I have a yarn I was thinking about using for this project – it’s 221 yards/50 grams and 7 stitches/inch on US 3 needles. Do you think it’s close enough to the original gauge to avoid any extra curling problems? Thank you!
Hi Olivia,
Thanks for reaching out, and we’re happy to hear that this pattern has caught your eye! You’ll very likely run into a bit of curling no matter what yarn you use. Blocking should minimize this significantly, but another thing you could do is seam each end of the scarf together with itself (since the scarf is a tube). This will remove the curling altogether, and it won’t change the look of the scarf at all!
All the best,
Lili
Hello – I ordered this bundle a long time ago and just pulled it out to begin starting it in a few days but I have a question about the amount of the MC provided. The three skeins of the MC do not equal the amount the pattern says is needed….it’s about 120 yards short?? Am I looking at something incorrectly? Will I need another skein of my MC? I received the bundle of 3 skeins of both the MC and the CC.
Hi Robyn,
Thanks for writing in! Do you have the original bundle where the MC was the 100g skeins of Posy? We made some changes to the size of the skeins before ultimately discontinuing Posy, and the original bundle included 3 skeins of the 100g Posy for the MC and 3 skeins of the 25g Pocket Posy for the CC. I’d recommend checking the yardage on the skein labels, but I have a feeling that you have the correct amount of yarn for this project!
All the best,
Lili
If I want to seam the ends, what seaming method do you recommend? Something that you do at the end? Or a certain casting on/binding off seam?
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! There are a few different ways to join the ends together, and the simplest would be to seam them together following our Seaming Stockinette Stitch Horizontally tutorial. Another method would be to cast on provisionally and then use Kitchener stitch to graft the cast-on edges together. Then when you reach the end of the scarf, don’t bind off, but instead use Kitchener stitch to graft those edges together as well!
All the best,
Lili