Traveling Cable Hand Warmers
Since leaving my sunny California home for colder climates, I’ve always refused to succumb to such comforts as mittens, preferring coat pockets to clumsy woolen paws. But wait… Why didn’t anyone tell me about hand warmers?! Warm hands and wrists? Free fingers? That’s an accessory I can live with!
Designed to coordinate with my Traveling Cable Hat, these Hand Warmers feature the same stitch pattern and require just one skein of Purl Soho’s beautiful spring-weight Mulberry Merino. I’ll still get a few weeks of wear out of them, but really these beauties are making me look forward to a warm-wristed future. I’ll definitely be greeting next fall’s chill with a wave of my hand warmer-clad hands! -Gina
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Gina Rockenwagner. Click here to see even more of Gina’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoTravelingCableHandWarmers. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Mulberry Merino, 80% extra fine merino wool and 20% mulberry silk. Each skein is 247 yards; approximately 150 yards required. We used the color Heirloom White. (NOTE: We no longer offer Mulberry Merino, but choose from one of our other sport weight yarns.)
- A set of US 4 (3.5 mm) double pointed needles
- A cable stitch holder
Gauge
28 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Size
Finished Circumference: 6 inches unstretched, comfortably stretching to fit most adults
Finished Length: 7 ¾ inches, with enough yarn to make each hand warmer at least 2 inches longer. Please see the Note in the “Begin Cable Pattern” section if you wish to lengthen the hand warmers.
Notes
Abbreviations
For step-by-step instructions on how to do each of the following cable stitches please check out our Cable Tutorial.
Left Cross (LC): Slip 3 knit stitches to cable stitch holder and hold in front of work, p1 from left hand needle, k3 from cable stitch holder.
Right Cross (RC): Slip 1 purl stitch to cable stitch holder and hold in back of work, k3 from left hand needle, p1 from cable stitch holder.
Cable 6 Front (C6F): Slip 3 knit stitches to cable stitch holder and hold in front of work, k3 from left hand needle, k3 from cable stitch holder.
Cable 6 Back (C6B): Slip 3 knit stitches to cable stitch holder and hold in back of work, k3 from left hand needle, k3 from cable stitch holder.
Pattern
Note: The right and left hand warmers are identical until you reach the Gusset section.
Cuff
Cast 52 stitches onto three double pointed needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Join to work in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Round 1: *P2, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 1 ½ inches from the cast-on edge.
Set-Up Round: Purl into the front and back loop (pfb), p1, [k2, make 1 left (m1L), p2, make 1 right (m1R), k2, p2] two times, k2, m1L, p2, m1R, k2, p1, pfb, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2. [60 stitches]
Begin Cable Pattern
Round 1: P3, [k3, p2] 6 times, p1, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
Round 2: P3, [LC, RC, p2] 3 times, p1, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
Round 3: [P4, k6] 3 times, p4, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
Round 4: [P4, C6F] 3 times, p4, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
Round 5: Repeat Round 3.
Round 6: P3, [RC, LC, p2] 3 times, p1, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
Round 7: P3, [k3, p2] 6 times, p1, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
Round 8: P2, [RC, p2, LC] 3 times, [p2, k2] 7 times.
Round 9: P2, [k3, p4, k3] 3 times, [p2, k2] 7 times.
Round 10: P2, k3, [p4, C6B] 2 times, p4, k3, p2, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
Round 11: Repeat Round 9
Round 12: P2, [LC, p2, RC] 3 times, [p2, k2] 7 times.
Repeat Rounds 1- 8 one more time.
Note: If you wish to make the hand warmers longer, repeat Rounds 1- 12 one more time, then Rounds 1-8 one more time.
Gusset, Left Hand
Round 1: P2, [k3, p4, k3] 3 times, [p2, k2] 7 times.
Round 2: P2, k3, [p4, C6B] 2 times, p4, k3, [p2, k2] 5 times, p2, m1R, k2, m1L, p2, k2. [62 stitches]
Round 3: P2, [k3, p4, k3] 3 times, [p2, k2] 5 times p2, k4, p2, k2.
Round 4: P2, [LC, p2, RC] 3 times, [p2, k2] 5 times, p2, k1, m1R, k2, m1L, k1, p2, k2 [64 stitches]
Round 5: P3, [k3, p2] 6 times, p1, [k2, p2] 5 times, k6, p2, k2.
Round 6: P3, [LC, RC, p2] 3 times, p1, [k2, p2] 5 times, k2, m1R, k2, m1lL, k2, p2, k2. [66 stitches]
Round 7: [P4, k6] 3 times, p4, [k2, p2] 5 times, k8, p2, k2.
Round 8: [P4, C6F] 3 times, p4, [k2, p2] 5 times, k3, m1R, k2, m1L, k3, p2, k2. [68 stitches]
Round 9: [P4, k6] 3 times, p4, [k2, p2] 5 times, k10, p2, k2.
Round 10: P3, [RC, LC, p2] 3 times, p1, [k2, p2] 5 times, k4, m1R, k2, m1lL k4, p2, k2. [70 stitches]
Round 11: P3, [k3, p2] 6 times, p1, [k2, p2] 5 times, k12, p2, k2.
Round 12: P2, [RC, p2, LC] 3 times, p2, [k2, p2] 5 times, k5, m1R, k2, m1lL k5, p2, k2. [72 stitches]
Round 13: P2, [k3, p4, k3] 3 times, p2, [k2, p2] 5 times, k14, p2, k2.
Thumbhole Round: P2, k3, [p4, C6B] 2 times, p4, k3, p2, [k2, p2] 5 times, put the next 14 stitches onto a stitch holder or piece of scrap yarn.
Turn the work so the wrong side is facing you and cable cast on 2 stitches.
Turn the work so the right side is facing you, and working into the next stitch on the left needle, p2, k2. [60 stitches]
To finish the left hand warmer, skip to the Palm section.
Gusset, Right Hand
Round 1: P2, [k3, p4, k3] 3 times, [p2, k2] 7 times.
Round 2: P2, k3, [p4, C6B] 2 times, p4, k3, p2, k2, p2, m1R, k2, m1L, [p2, k2] 5 times. [62 stitches]
Round 3: P2, [k3, p4, k3] 3 times, p2, k2, p2, k4, [p2, k2] 5 times.
Round 4: P2, [LC, p2, RC] 3 times, p2, k2, p2, k1, m1R, k2, m1L, k1, [p2, k2] 5 times. [64 stitches]
Round 5: P3, [k3, p2] 6 times, p1, k2, p2, k6, [p2, k2] 5 times.
Round 6: P3, [LC, RC, p2] 3 times, p1, k2, p2, k2, m1R, k2, m1L, k2, [p2, k2] 5 times. [66 stitches]
Round 7: [P4, k6] 3 times, p4, k2, p2, k8, [p2, k2] 5 times.
Round 8: [P4, C6F] 3 times, p4, k2, p2, k3, m1R, k2, m1L, k3, [p2, k2] 5 times. [68 stitches]
Round 9: [P4, k6] 3 times, p4, k2, p2, k10, [p2, k2] 5 times.
Round 10: P3, [RC, LC, p2] 3 times, p1, k2, p2, k4, m1R, k2, m1L, k4, [p2, k2] 5 times. [70 stitches]
Round 11: P3, [k3, p2] 6 times, p1, k2, p2, k12, [p2, k2] 5 times.
Round 12: P2, [RC, p2, LC] 3 times, p2, k2, p2, k5, m1R, k2, m1L, k5, [p2, k2] 5 times. [72 stitches]
Round 13: P2, [k3, p4, k3] 3 times, p2, k2, p2, k14, [p2, k2] 5 times.
Thumbhole Round: P2, k3, [p4, C6B] 2 times, p4, k3, p2, k2, p2, put the next 14 stitches onto a stitch holder or piece of scrap yarn, turn the work so the wrong side is facing you and cable cast on 2 stitches, turn the work so the right side is facing you, and working into the next stitch on the left needle, [p2, k2] 5 times. [60 stitches]
Palm, Both Hands
Work Rounds 11 and 12 of the cable pattern (see the Begin Cable Pattern section, above), then work Rounds 1-12 once.
Set-up Round: P2tog, p1, [k1, ssk, p2, k2tog, k1, p2] three times, k2tog, k1, [p2, k2] 6 times. [52 stitches]
Next Round: *P2, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat last round until hand warmers measure 7 ¾ inches from the cast-on edge.
Bind off loosely in p2, k2 pattern.
Thumb, Both Hands
Rotate the hand warmer so that the on-hold stitches are at the top of the thumbhole. Joining a new yarn, pick up and knit 4 stitches along the bottom edge of the thumbhole, as indicated by the pink dots, above left.
Transfer the 14 on-hold stitches to two double pointed needles. [18 stitches]
Rotate the hand warmer so that the gusset is at the bottom of the thumbhole.
Joining to work in the round…
Set-up Round: K2tog, k10, k2tog, k4. [16 stitches]
Next Round: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat the last round until the thumb measures ¾ inch from the picked up stitches. Bind off loosely in k1, p1 pattern.
Weave in the ends.
Make your second hand warmer, block both gently and enjoy your Traveling Cable Hand Warmers!
Lovely pattern! I have just made it twice– one pair as a Christmas gift, then another for myself. The only thing I had any trouble with at all was in trying to match exactly the length of the two mitts overall, and the length of the thumbs. (Totally my problem, not the problem of the pattern.) It’s just hard to measure exactly with a tape measure, and both of the sections at issue are short– for me, less than 10 rows each. My note to myself (I plan to make one more pair, at least, next month) is to count the rows as I knit those sections, so I can make both mitts with exactly the same number of rows and be sure they will match.
My knitting teacher explained the importance of developing a shorthand for keeping track of counts and rows with patterns. I have a notebook I use, and most of the time it takes me several times to get it right (meaning I end up starting over a few times.) with this pattern, I counted the cuff as 10 rows, I added 2 stitches to the pick up around the thumb and decided @5 rows plus bind off for the length. I cant depend on my memory so I write it down!
Hi Jeanne,
Thanks for reaching! Thank you for sharing that tip! I also find it very helpful to keep a notebook while I am working on different patterns! It is very helpful having notes on hand, especially if you want to make something again!
All the best,
Gianna
Nice pattern can’t wait to start it
I love the pattern. I would like to try and make these without the thumb gusset ( totally fingerless with only an opening on the side where I would bind the edge. Can I knit this pattern on two straight needles and then sew up the 2 side edges. ?
Hi and thanks for reaching out! With a few pattern modifications, I think you could omit the thumb gusset and work these hand warmers flat! We don’t have instructions for knitting the cable pattern flat; however, to do so, on the wrong side rows, you will just have to make sure you knit your knits and purl your purls. I would also suggest adding two stitches to the cast on and working a column of garter stitch on each end of your knitting to create a selvage that will make it easier to seam up the hand warmers when you are done.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
It’s totally possible to split the stitches in half and knit in the round on two circular needles, right? Would that change anything?
I imagine it could work, just using stitch markers to make sure the pattern doesn’t get damaged.
E
Hi Esther,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, you could certainly substitute two circular needles for double pointed needles for this pattern! I would just make sure that the point where you divide the stitches is outside of the cable panel so that none of the cables cross over the join area.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
If you read into the comments a little farther back, I described how to knit this pattern in the round….it’s MUCH better and comes out much more uniform if you:
1.) START every round (from the very first stitch when you join) with K2 (instead of ending the row with that K2). Just do those last 2 stitches first, then proceed to the regular pattern…at the end of every row, the final 2 stitches will already have been done, so go to the next row and begin again with the final K2 of that row.
2:) split the stitches so that you have 28 on the first “half” that you will knit and 24 on the second half. This makes it so that the cable looks very clean. It also helps to hide any laddering that may occur by appearing to be a pattern on the sides of the cables.
I wish I could attach a pic…I have made this pattern 5 times now. I used a yarn that has a gentle ombré just by chance the first time and it is wicked cool!! I have made them both “normal” and by extending the pattern as shown as an option. I’m going to do a double extension next. Can’t wait! ALL of my sisters and sisters-in-law are begging for them!!!
Hi! I’m new to using DPN’s, so please pardon what might seem like a silly question. The pattern says to “Cast 52 stitches onto three double pointed needles.” .. does this mean that we need to cast on 52 stitches on to each DPN for a total of 156 stitches? Or does it mean a total of 52 stitches, and if so, how does that get divided between the 3 DPN’s? Thank you!
Hi Joshi,
Great question! This means that you will be casting on 52 stitches total and dividing them as evenly as you can between the three double pointed needles. It’s not unusual for the number of stitches in a project to not divide evenly by three, so you just have to pick how you want to split them up – in this case, I would probably put 16 stitches on the first needle, 16 stitches on the second needle, and 20 on the third needle. Although you could divide them up a little more evenly by doing something like 17, 17, and 18, since you will be starting with k2, p2 ribbing it’s helpful to have a multiple of 4 stitches on each needle.
Also, looking ahead, when you start the cables, you will probably want to redistribute your stitches again so the entire cabled panel is one one needle so you don’t have to worry about crossing cables that are on two different needles. And one last tip, I find it much easier to cast on all the stitches on a single needle and then slip them to the other double pointed needles, rather than switching needles in the middle of a cast on!
Best of luck, and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi Julianna!
Trick: I put a green row marker on the first stitch of the first needle, a yellow row marker on the first stitch of the second needle, and a red row marker on the first stitch of the red needle. That way I don’t need to worry about moving stitches around. I’m sure you’ve heard this one but am so appreciative of all you guys do I thought I’d pass it along!
Hi Julie,
Thanks for reaching out! That is an excellent tip! Thank you for sharing with us, I am sure many will find this trick helpful!
Warmly,
Gianna
Ok, I’m having a brain fart. I’ve made the left glove no problem. Ive had to restart the right twice now. When you say ” repeat rounds 1-8 one more time”, do you really mean stop after row 7 is done.
If I do 8 then back to 1, the stitches don’t match up.
Hi Meg,
Thanks for reaching out. In this section of the pattern, you’ll need to work through until you’ve completed Row 8 before moving on to the GUSSET, RIGHT HAND section! Interestingly, Round 1 of this section is exactly the same as Round 1 of the GUSSET, LEFT HAND section, as well as Round 9 of the BEGIN CABLE PATTERN section, so if you’ve knit the left hand warmer and Round 9 successfully, then Round 1 for the right hand should also match up.
It’s likely that something may have gone wrong in somewhere in the previous rows to cause the stitches not to align. I’d recommend frogging back a few rounds, or restarting again, and paying very close attention to the movement of the cables throughout the BEGIN CABLE PATTERN section. If you’re still running into trouble, feel free to send over a photo of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com so we can better visualize what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
I really love this patter but I’m so glad to see someone else asking this Q. I’m also having difficulties with that section. What row do we start the gusset on exactly? It sure would help to have an asterisk or italics directing us “start thumb gusset here” or to write that section row by row & then revert to cable repeat patterns. I am so confused.
Q2: I also see a Palm Section. So aside from the gussett and the cable there are changes in the palm? But that can’t be right because there are cabling instructions there for the back of the hand.
I hope you can explain how this is organized for me. Thank you.
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for writing in, and I’d be happy to help clarify this pattern for you! The reason we didn’t write it out line-by-line is because that would be very repetitive, and ultimately cause more confusion because the pattern would end up being incredibly long and even easier to get lost in. For the gusset, you will work all 12 rows of the CABLE PATTERN once through, and then you will work Rows 1-8 one more time. Then, you can move directly to where it says GUSSET, LEFT HAND (or GUSSET, RIGHT HAND, if you’re on the right hand), and begin knitting the gusset!
The PALM, BOTH HANDS section occurs after you’ve finished the gusset and have put the thumb stitches on hold. At this point, you can simply begin working the CABLE PATTERN once more, beginning on Row 11. Once you’ve completed Row 11 and Row 12 once, you’ll work through all 12 rows of the CABLE PATTERN. After that, you switch back to 2 x 2 ribbing, as the pattern indicates. I hope this helps clarify the organization of this pattern!
All the best,
Lili
Yes. Something g went wrong on my second glove. I gave up and back track a little to match as best as I could. I ended up with the thumb hole being higher on one and less pattern on the top of last glove. They look great and just had t9 leave this project It’s a brain teaser being that one must go back and forth. I must have misread ,,, though I am pretty sure I follow instructions. Please put them in reading order next time. Gorgeous pattern!
Hi Patti,
Thanks for reaching out, although I’m sorry to hear that your hand warmers came out mismatched! I’ve double checked the pattern, and it should create two matching hand warmers as it’s written. If you’re finding that your thumb holes are coming out at different levels, it sounds like you may have worked the incorrect amount of rounds on one of your hand warmers. Here’s how many rounds should be in each section for both the right and left:
CUFF: 1 1/2 inches from cast-on edge (which is 13 or 14 rounds, based on the row gauge)
BEGIN CABLE PATTERN: 20 rounds (or 32 rounds if you follow the instructions to make the hand warmers longer)
GUSSET (both LEFT and RIGHT): 14 rounds
PALM: 14 rounds of cable pattern, then 2 x 2 ribbing until hand warmer measures 7 3/4 inches from the cast-on edge
I hope this helps you figure out what happened in your own project, but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! Can this be done on any number of even stitches? I have a tiny wrist, and 52 stitches is way too big for me unfortunately. Could I cast on 42 instead and increase it to 50 for the cable round?
Hi Teresa,
Thanks for writing in! I also have tiny wrists so I understand what your concerns are. I think it might be easier to use a lighter weight yarn and smaller needles to resize, I’ve had to do that several times with patterns, as it’s easier to do than reworking a pattern. If you’re feeling adventurous and do decide to try your idea out, let us know how it goes!
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
Can you please recommend another yarn for this pattern? The shades that I am interested in are either not available in the Mulberry Merino or sold out.
Thank you!
Hi Joy,
Thanks for writing in! Season Alpaca, Good Wool, and Anzula Cricket would all be suitable for this pattern – hopefully one of these yarns has colors that suit you! If not, you can always enter your email address on the Mulberry Merino product page for the sold out colors and we will let you know as soon as they are available.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you so much!
I have made this pattern at least 10 times. Thank you!
I have a question on the set up round. It says it equals 60 stitches, but is only 54. I assume that’s just an error. When I count the total stitches per row after the cuff, however, the number varies from 60 to 54. Can you help me decipher this?
Hi Patti,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help! Starting with the 52 stitches you cast on, first in the set up round you will be purling into the front and back loop (pfb) which is a single increase! Then p1, k2, make 1 left (m1L), p2, make 1 right (m1R), k2, p2 and repeat that two times (a total of 4 stitches increased) next you k2, m1L, p2, m1R, (2 more stitches increased) k2, p1, pfb (another stitch increased.) Then you will finish the round by k2, p2 and repeating that 6 times, and then knit the last two stitches. So there are a total of 8 stitches increased after the set up round leaving you with 60 stitches!
I hope this clarifies things and please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
All the best,
Gianna
Got it. I could not tell what was to be repeated twice. I thought it was just the k2 p2!
Thanks,
Patti
This is a beautiful pattern, thank you! How would I go about having the palm of the hand be plain? Thanks
Hi Fulvia,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! The palm of this pattern doesn’t have cables but rather a rib stitch to compliment the cables that are on the reverse side!
All the best,
Gianna
Right but if I wanted it to be flat, no rib, at what point do I stop/start the plain knitting instead? Thanks, Gianna
Hi Fulvia,
Thanks for reaching out again! You can work in stockinette stick on either side of the cable repeat to eliminate the rib stitch on the palm.
All the best,
Gianna
Great pattern! I want to use your new 100% yak yarn to make both the hat and hand warmers. How many skeins will I need?
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for writing in! I am glad to hear you like this pattern and are interested in using our lovely new Simply Yak! A few things, these hand warmers are originally designed with Mulberry Merino which is a sport weight and the Traveling Cable Hat is designed with a aran/worsted weight and our Simply Yak is a dk/light worsted. So you may need to adjust the gauge of the hat and hand warmers to accommodate a different yarn weight. I can’t say the exact amount of yardage since it is a different weight and you will be able to determine the actual amount when you work a gauge swatch, but I would recommend 2 skins for the hat and 2 skeins for the hand warmers!
All the best,
Gianna
When you say make 1 Right Make 1 left . You you explain how you do that.
Hi Chris,
Thanks for reaching out! We have a great tutorial for Make 1 Right (m1R) + Make 1 Left (m1L) that will show you exactly how to work both increases!
All the best,
Gianna
Can anyone provide pattern modifications to turn these into mittens?
Hi Jeanne,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t currently have the resources to re-write this pattern to include modifications for mittens, but thank you so much for expressing your interest and I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thank you for your response. It’s just that I really like the way the thumb gusset looks!
I have a question about round two of the cable pattern. The total round seems to only add up to 48 stitches instead of 60. What am I missing?
Hi Eileen,
Thanks for reaching out! You will start off by casting on 52 stitches, you will then increase 8 stitches in the set up round which will equal 60 stitches! Set-Up Round: Purl into the front and back loop (pfb- 1 stitch increased), p1, [k2, make 1 left (m1L), p2, make 1 right (m1R), k2, p2] two times (4 stitches increased), k2, m1L, p2, m1R, k2, p1, pfb, (3 stitches increased) [k2, p2] 6 times, k2. [60 stitches total, 8 increased]
I hope this clears things up for you!
Warmly,
Gianna
So I understand the increase to 60 stitches. But when I get to Round 2 of the Cable pattern, I only see 48 stitches. Round 2 is: P3, (LC,RC,P2) 3 times, P1, (K2,P2) 6 times, K2.
In other words 3 + (6)X3 + 1 + (4)X6 + 2.
Which is also: 3 + 18 + 1 +24 + 2.
Which is 48.
I can’t figure out what I’m missing, so I thought maybe it should be (6)X5 instead of (6)X3.
I have the same problem with later rounds too.
Hi Eileen,
Thanks for reaching out again! The pattern is correct as written, in round 2 of the cable pattern you are working over all 60 stitches, not 48.
P3, [LC, RC, p2] 3 times (30 stitches), p1, [k2, p2] 6 times (24 stitches), k2. = 60! Keep in mind that the LC and RC both work over 4 stitches. So you purl 3, [LC, RC, purl 2] which adds up to 10 stitches, you then repeat that step 3 times equaling 30 stitches, purl 1 and then K2 P2 6 times equaling 24 stitches, K2. This will bring you across the entire round, 60 stitches total.
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
Got it. Thanks. I was doing the LC and RC completely wrong. I was only using 2 stitches for each.
Hi! I love this pattern. I am using a little bit of a heavier yarn with size 7 needles, and my gauge ends up being 5 stitches to the inch. I have always had difficulty understanding how to adjust patterns. Would it work if I adjusted this pattern to my gauge? If so, how many should I cast on?
Thank you!
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately this pattern would be difficult to re-write since the cables work over a set number of stitches. Since your gauge isn’t too far off from the gauge of the pattern I would recommend going down in needle size and see if you can get your gauge to 7 stitches per inch instead of 5. That way you can work the pattern as written without any adjustments! I also recommend checking out our tutorial All About Gauge, it is an excellent resource to use!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi. I am still struggling with the set up round even after reading the comments. I end up going from 52 to 66 stitches! I have the correct amount of increases but there are too many other stitches in the pattern. . .
Breaking it down I see:
pfb, p1 = stitch 1-3 (increase of 1)
[k2, m1L, p2, m1R, k2, p2] = stitch 4-15 (increase of 2)
repeated [] = stitch 16-27 (increase of 2)
k2, m1L, p2, m1R, k2, p1, pfb = stitch 28-40 (increase of 3)
[k2, p2] 6 times, k2 = stitch 41-66!
Please help. Where am I going wrong?
Hi Annie,
Thanks for reaching out! I’m sorry to hear that this round has been giving you trouble. I think the way you broke down the stitches is really clever and helpful, but I’m spotting three small errors that look like they’ve been throwing off your stitch count.
In the section that goes [k2, m1L, p2, m1R, k2, p2], you’re correct that there’s an increase of 2 stitches. However, there are only 10 stitches total after the increases, which means that these stitches are actually stitches 4-13 (and not stitches 4-15, as you’ve written). This also goes for the repeated bracketed section; these are actually stitches 14-23, and not 16-27. The last little error I’m seeing is in the next section, which has 11 stitches total after the 3 increases, so it should actually be stitches 24-34. Going from there, the final section will end up being stitches 34-60!
I hope this clarifies things, and please don’t hesitate to reach out again if you have any more questions!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much, your reply is super useful! I realised while I was M1 I was knitting it twice so adding 2 extra stitches instead of a single increase.
Can i knit these mitts flat please
Hi Sheena,
Thanks for writing in! I think that you could absolutely knit these flat, but it would take some modification of the pattern. While we do not have the resources to rewrite patterns, I fully support you trying this out! I think it’s a great idea, so let us know how it goes.
All the best,
Lili
Hi, i dont really understand from the writing how to make it.
Can anybody share a video with this pattern, please? Im just starting my crochet journey and its harder for me.
Thank you
Hi Alexandra,
Thanks for writing in! This is a knitting pattern, not a crochet pattern, and unfortunately, we do not offer a tutorial for this. You can find all of our crochet patterns here: Crochet! If you are interested, I am happy to suggest some great beginner-friendly crochet patterns of ours!
Warm Regards,
Gianna
Hi!
I am wondering if this pattern would work well with Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist? If not, are there any other handwarmer patterns that would work well with W-Twist?
Thanks so much!
Colleen
Hi Colleen,
Thanks for reaching out. I wouldn’t recommend making these with Worsted Twist, since the pattern is designed for a sportweight yarn. Worsted Twist would work great for the following patterns though: Wide Rib Handwarmers, Simple Handwarmers, Essential Handwarmers, Seed Stitch Mittens + Hand Warmers. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Super! Thanks so much, Lili! 🙂
How can I download this file to my tablet to view while knitting? It was trying to send it to my Word app to show it in that format but not working. Do you have this is a pdf format for sharing? It is a lovely pattern my family seem to have fallen in love with and so I’m trying to make each a pair. Hopig to also make each the matching hat as well so looking for that in a pdf format as well please. Thank you. 🙂
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out. To download this pattern, just follow these instructions: If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, click on the “PDF” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window. Once the PDF downloads, just click on the green “Download Your PDF” button!
I hope this helps you access the pattern from your tablet.
All the best,
Lili
I have completed Rounds 1-12 plus Rounds 1-8. I would like to make the hand warmer longer. When I read the instructions, I am directed to repeat Rounds 1 to 12 but, Round 1 starts with P3 and the previous Round only has 2 purl stitches at the beginning of the round. If I proceeded with P3 it would include a knit stitch which is part of the cable. Am I missing something or should I proceed with the longer version using a different row?
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out. After you work the left cross (LC) in Round 12, you will end up with 3 purl stitches in a row, instead of just 2! That way, you’ll be able to proceed back to Round 1. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Do you knit the cable and gusset and palm at the same time? It looks as though the 3 make a round.
Hi Gigi!
Thank you for your question! Yes, you will be working the cable pattern on the back of the hand warmer and the gusset for the thumb at the same time. As you navigate around the thumb hole, you will then continue knitting the palm stitches while maintaining the cable pattern along the back of the handwarmer.
I hope this helps, and please feel free to ask us any other questions!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi thanks for a lovely warm pattern. I think you might be missing a p4 c6 plus following row in round 8, ‘begin cable pattern’ section.
Or perhaps I’ve just created my own pattern
Cheers Jodi
Hi Jodi,
Thanks for writing in! Was this the line you were referring to?
“Round 8: P2, [RC, p2, LC] 3 times, [p2, k2] 7 times.”
If so, it sounds like you may have veered off the pattern a bit since the math checks out as written to me. Please let us know if we’re misunderstanding the question though!
All the best,
Zha Zha