Traveling Cable Hand Warmers
Since leaving my sunny California home for colder climates, I’ve always refused to succumb to such comforts as mittens, preferring coat pockets to clumsy woolen paws. But wait… Why didn’t anyone tell me about hand warmers?! Warm hands and wrists? Free fingers? That’s an accessory I can live with!
Designed to coordinate with my Traveling Cable Hat, these Hand Warmers feature the same stitch pattern and require just one skein of Purl Soho’s beautiful spring-weight Mulberry Merino. I’ll still get a few weeks of wear out of them, but really these beauties are making me look forward to a warm-wristed future. I’ll definitely be greeting next fall’s chill with a wave of my hand warmer-clad hands! -Gina
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Gina Rockenwagner. Click here to see even more of Gina’s designs!
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Materials
- 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Mulberry Merino, 80% extra fine merino wool and 20% mulberry silk. Each skein is 247 yards; approximately 150 yards required. We used the color Heirloom White.
- A set of US 4 (3.5 mm) double pointed needles
- A cable stitch holder
- A stitch marker
Shop our wonderful collection of sport-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
Gauge
28 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
Short (Medium, Long)
Finished Circumference: 6 inches unstretched, comfortably stretching to fit most adults
Finished Length: 7¾ (8⅛, 8½) inches
Notes
CROSSES + CABLES
For step-by-step instructions on how to do each of the following stitches please check out our Cable Tutorial.
LEFT + RIGHT CROSS
Left Cross (LC): Slip 3 knit stitches to cable stitch holder and hold in front of work, p1 from left hand needle, k3 from cable stitch holder.
Right Cross (RC): Slip 1 purl stitch to cable stitch holder and hold in back of work, k3 from left hand needle, p1 from cable stitch holder.
CABLE 6 FRONT + BACK
Cable 6 Front (C6F): Slip 3 knit stitches to cable stitch holder and hold in front of work, k3 from left hand needle, k3 from cable stitch holder.
Cable 6 Back (C6B): Slip 3 knit stitches to cable stitch holder and hold in back of work, k3 from left hand needle, k3 from cable stitch holder.
Pattern
Cuff
Cast 52 stitches onto three double pointed needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place a unique marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Round 1: *P2, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 1 ½ inches from the cast-on edge.
Set-Up Round: Purl into the front and back (pfb), p1, [k2, make 1 left (m1L), p2, make 1 right (m1R), k2, p2] 2 times, k2, m1L, p2, m1R, k2, p1, pfb, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2. [60 stitches]
WRIST
Round 1: P3, [k3, p2] 6 times, p1, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
Round 2: P3, [LC, RC, p2] 3 times, p1, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
Round 3: [P4, k6] 3 times, p4, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
Round 4: [P4, C6F] 3 times, p4, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
Round 5: Repeat Round 3.
Round 6: P3, [RC, LC, p2] 3 times, p1, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
Round 7: P3, [k3, p2] 6 times, p1, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
Round 8: P2, [RC, p2, LC] 3 times, [p2, k2] 7 times.
Round 9: P2, [k3, p4, k3] 3 times, [p2, k2] 7 times.
Round 10: P2, k3, [p4, C6B] 2 times, p4, k3, p2, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
Round 11: Repeat Round 9
Round 12: P2, [LC, p2, RC] 3 times, [p2, k2] 7 times.
MEDIUM + LONG ONLY
Repeat Rounds 1-12 one (2) more time(s).
ALL SIZES
Repeat Rounds 1-8 one more time.
GUSSET
Left Hand
Round 1: P2, [k3, p4, k3] 3 times, [p2, k2] 7 times.
Round 2: P2, k3, [p4, C6B] 2 times, p4, k3, [p2, k2] 5 times, p2, m1R, k2, m1L, p2, k2. [62 stitches]
Round 3: P2, [k3, p4, k3] 3 times, [p2, k2] 5 times p2, k4, p2, k2.
Round 4: P2, [LC, p2, RC] 3 times, [p2, k2] 5 times, p2, k1, m1R, k2, m1L, k1, p2, k2 [64 stitches]
Round 5: P3, [k3, p2] 6 times, p1, [k2, p2] 5 times, k6, p2, k2.
Round 6: P3, [LC, RC, p2] 3 times, p1, [k2, p2] 5 times, k2, m1R, k2, m1L, k2, p2, k2. [66 stitches]
Round 7: [P4, k6] 3 times, p4, [k2, p2] 5 times, k8, p2, k2.
Round 8: [P4, C6F] 3 times, p4, [k2, p2] 5 times, k3, m1R, k2, m1L, k3, p2, k2. [68 stitches]
Round 9: [P4, k6] 3 times, p4, [k2, p2] 5 times, k10, p2, k2.
Round 10: P3, [RC, LC, p2] 3 times, p1, [k2, p2] 5 times, k4, m1R, k2, m1L k4, p2, k2. [70 stitches]
Round 11: P3, [k3, p2] 6 times, p1, [k2, p2] 5 times, k12, p2, k2.
Round 12: P2, [RC, p2, LC] 3 times, p2, [k2, p2] 5 times, k5, m1R, k2, m1L k5, p2, k2. [72 stitches]
Round 13: P2, [k3, p4, k3] 3 times, p2, [k2, p2] 5 times, k14, p2, k2.
Thumbhole Round: P2, k3, [p4, C6B] 2 times, p4, k3, p2, [k2, p2] 5 times, put next 14 stitches onto a stitch holder or piece of scrap yarn.
Turn work so wrong side is facing you and cable cast on 2 stitches.
Turn work so right side is facing you, and working into next stitch on left needle, p2, k2. [60 stitches]
Go on to Palm section.
Right Hand
Round 1: P2, [k3, p4, k3] 3 times, [p2, k2] 7 times.
Round 2: P2, k3, [p4, C6B] 2 times, p4, k3, p2, k2, p2, m1R, k2, m1L, [p2, k2] 5 times. [62 stitches]
Round 3: P2, [k3, p4, k3] 3 times, p2, k2, p2, k4, [p2, k2] 5 times.
Round 4: P2, [LC, p2, RC] 3 times, p2, k2, p2, k1, m1R, k2, m1L, k1, [p2, k2] 5 times. [64 stitches]
Round 5: P3, [k3, p2] 6 times, p1, k2, p2, k6, [p2, k2] 5 times.
Round 6: P3, [LC, RC, p2] 3 times, p1, k2, p2, k2, m1R, k2, m1L, k2, [p2, k2] 5 times. [66 stitches]
Round 7: [P4, k6] 3 times, p4, k2, p2, k8, [p2, k2] 5 times.
Round 8: [P4, C6F] 3 times, p4, k2, p2, k3, m1R, k2, m1L, k3, [p2, k2] 5 times. [68 stitches]
Round 9: [P4, k6] 3 times, p4, k2, p2, k10, [p2, k2] 5 times.
Round 10: P3, [RC, LC, p2] 3 times, p1, k2, p2, k4, m1R, k2, m1L, k4, [p2, k2] 5 times. [70 stitches]
Round 11: P3, [k3, p2] 6 times, p1, k2, p2, k12, [p2, k2] 5 times.
Round 12: P2, [RC, p2, LC] 3 times, p2, k2, p2, k5, m1R, k2, m1L, k5, [p2, k2] 5 times. [72 stitches]
Round 13: P2, [k3, p4, k3] 3 times, p2, k2, p2, k14, [p2, k2] 5 times.
Thumbhole Round: P2, k3, [p4, C6B] 2 times, p4, k3, p2, k2, p2, put next 14 stitches onto a stitch holder or piece of scrap yarn, turn work so wrong side is facing you and cable cast on 2 stitches, turn work so right side is facing you, and working into next stitch on left needle, [p2, k2] 5 times. [60 stitches]
PALM
Work Cable Pattern
Set-Up Round 1: P2, [k3, p4, k3] 3 times, [p2, k2] 7 times.
Set-Up Round 2: P2, [LC, p2, RC] 3 times, [p2, k2] 7 times.
Round 1: P3, [k3, p2] 6 times, p1, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
Round 2: P3, [LC, RC, p2] 3 times, p1, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
Round 3: [P4, k6] 3 times, p4, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
Round 4: [P4, C6F] 3 times, p4, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
Round 5: Repeat Round 3.
Round 6: P3, [RC, LC, p2] 3 times, p1, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
Round 7: P3, [k3, p2] 6 times, p1, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
Round 8: P2, [RC, p2, LC] 3 times, [p2, k2] 7 times.
Round 9: P2, [k3, p4, k3] 3 times, [p2, k2] 7 times.
Round 10: P2, k3, [p4, C6B] 2 times, p4, k3, p2, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
Round 11: Repeat Round 9
Round 12: P2, [LC, p2, RC] 3 times, [p2, k2] 7 times.
Next Round: Purl two together (p2tog), p1, [k1, slip slip knit (ssk), p2, knit two together (k2tog), k1, p2] 3 times, k2tog, k1, [p2, k2] 6 times. [52 stitches]
WORK RIBBING
Round 1: *P2, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 7¾ (8⅛, 8½) inches from cast-on edge.
Bind off loosely in pattern.
THUMB
Orient hand warmer so on-hold stitches are at the top of the thumbhole. Joining a new yarn, pick up and knit 4 stitches along the bottom edge of the thumbhole, as indicated by the pink dots, above left.
Transfer the 14 on-hold stitches to two double pointed needles. [18 stitches]
Rotate the hand warmer so that gusset is at bottom of the thumbhole.
Place a unique marker and join to work in the round.
Set-Up Round: K2tog, k10, k2tog, k4. [16 stitches]
Next Round: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat the last round until the thumb measures ¾ inch from picked up stitches, or to desired length.
Bind off loosely in pattern.
Make a second hand warmer for the opposite hand, weave in all ends and gently wet block. Then, enjoy your Traveling Cable Hand Warmers!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
très belles mitaines. Les explications ne sont pas faciles.
Merci et bravo
Too many lovely patterns lately. I have been knitting like a machine and now these! Gorgeous. I have a lovely collection; mittens, scarf and soon cable mitts.
Thank you so much for your kind words, Liz! We always love seeing what our readers make from our patterns. Send us a picture of your collection if you feel like it! Happy knitting! -Gina
This is one of those patterns where you need to be alone in a quiet room and completely concentrated on your work….and every once in a while it’s wonderful and very satisfying to do a project like that. And they’re soooo pretty! Thanks for the free pattern!
Hi Wendi, Thanks so much for writing us with your kind words!
The first repeat of the pattern would probably require the full concentration of even an avid knitter, but once you’re familiar with the pattern it becomes pretty straight forward. You’ll start to see the cables visually and anticipate each cable cross, then you may not need to have your eyes glued to the pattern. And you’re right, it always feels so rewarding to get to the other side of a challenging project. I hope you enjoy knitting them! All my best, Gina
Hi Gina,
I’ve posted on Instagram but I’m happy to email photos. I knitted so many of the Purl Bee patterns. I have found them so easy to read and knit up with fantastic end results.
Thanks for promoting this beautiful craft.
Liz
Hi Liz,
Thank you so much for your comment! You’ve made my day.
If you tag Purl Soho on your Instagram posts, I will see them! You can also email [email protected] anytime.
Thanks again! Happy knitting! -Gina
Muchas gracias por estos guantes. Me pondre manos a la obra a ver como me quedan a mi. Saludos y sigan asi, siempre los sigo
Would love a chart for those cables.
Hi Jen, Thanks so much for writing us! We don’t have plans to add a chart for this pattern at the moment, but we’ll definitely keep your suggestion in mind going forward. Do you use Ravelry? I heard someone on Ravelry made a chart for the Traveling Cable Hat. Perhaps another kind soul will make a chart for these hand warmers! I’d check there! Happy knitting -Gina
These are so lovely to look at.. I hope I can look @ them on my hands soon and say “How lovely” .Thanks to all of you making up interesting patterns! Sharron
Thanks so much for your kind words, Sharron! The cable pattern makes me happy too. All my best, Gina
Thanks sooo much for the free patterns.. …I’m enjoying them tremendously…. They are so well explained!
Keep them coming,
Doris
Thanks Doris!
Can these be done on 2 needles?? I’m terrible using 4 dpns:(
Hi Melissa!
Thanks for your question!
I have a confession to make. When I made these hand warmers, I actually made the first one using a long circular needle and the magic loop method. I did not use double pointed needles. I found them easier to work on one long circular needle. Unfortunately, this pattern is worked in the round, so you can’t use straight needles for this pattern as written. Please let me know if that makes sense! Happy knitting! -Gina
What is the best distribution of stitches onto the 3 needles?
Hi Julie, Thanks for writing us! I placed all the stitches of the cable panel on one needle, and split the remaining stitches across two more needles. Try to keep only the stitches that travel as part of the cable pattern on the needle with the cable pattern, the stitches that boarder the cable panel can go on the other needles. Please let me know if I can help with any other questions! Have a great afternoon. -Gina
Hello,
I am a new knitter and am stuck after the cable cast on stitches for the thumbhole? It says to turn work RS facing you and then knit into the left needle?? This seems like I am knitting backwards (clockwise) If I place wrong side out then it bypasses the two cable cast on stitches.? The pattern is turning out fantastic, so beautiful.. Please help!! Grateful for all your lovely patterns.
Hello again from the pest beginner knitter. I believe I answered my own question. SO the last two stitches you will knit in the thumbhole round will be the 2 cast on…? Thank you for your time and inspiring me to knit. Every pattern has been beautiful, I love the checked lace scarf-that came out amazing.
Hi Lynn! Sounds like you are so so close to getting it!
I think I’ve figured out what the confusion might be – When you cable cast on the two stitches, the WRONG side of the work will be facing you. Then after you cast on the two stitches, you turn again so that the RIGHT side is facing you, then you work the remaining 4 stitches of the round, (p2, k2). Does that make sense? It sounds like you maybe missed the instruction to turn the work again to the right side after the cable cast on, which is totally easy to miss, especially since you’re probably making your very first pair of hand warmers! You are so close to finishing, once you’ve made the thumb hole, the hard part is over and it’s all down hill from there. I’m glad you’re liking them so far! Please let me know if that didn’t solve your problem and I’ll try to explain another way. Thanks so much for writing in! Happy knitting, Gina
How much yardage do the mitts require? Did you end up using the entire skein?
Hi Theresa,
Thanks for writing us!
You’ll need approximately 150 yards to knit the hand warmers as pictured. You’ll have a bit of yarn leftover, so you can make the mittens longer if you like!
Happy knitting! -Gina
I believe there is a mistake in the palm setup row: it should read … k2tog, k1, p1, p2tog for symmetry and then k2 p2 as established on the underside of the palm until end of row.
Wonderful mitts, thank you for the free pattern! I am finishing my second pair for my son’s kindergarten teachers.
Very easy
Hey Pepija,
Thank you for commenting! Normally I would try to make decreases symmetrical, but the reason you are decreasing in this row is to get the 3 stitch cables to a 2×2 rib so It isn’t necessary to rearrange the order.
I’m so glad you enjoy the pattern and feel free to comment if would like!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
I am trying to make these adorable hand warmers for a smaller size hand so I am thinking about using 45 stitches for the cabling section, but then I will have to alter the cabling and I don’t know exactly what to do. Help please!
Thank you,
Chloe
Hi Chloe,
Resizing the pattern for the Traveling Cable Hand Warmers is rather complex and we regrettably don’t have the resources to provide alternate sizes. A good rule of thumb in adjusting patterns is to try to decrease in areas where there’s less going on, in this case you might try decreasing in the ribbing sections on the palms instead of altering the cable itself, might be a bit easier. We appreciate your writing in and wish you good luck!
Can I replace double pointed needles for circular needles? These kind are not familiar to me, so i want to replaced them
Regards from MX
Hi Tania!
If you only want to use just one long circular needle, you can try the “Magic Loop” method, which is a useful alternative for those who don’t like working with double pointed needles. An easy-to-understand demonstration for this method can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mqIqRdJc68. Although we can’t rewrite the pattern to use a different method, the link might still be a helpful place for you to start! Wishing you good luck and thanks for writing!
Love this pattern! Thanks so mich, but would really appreciate it if you included British weight wool equivalent in your patterns xx
Hi Hilary! Although we don’t currently include British wool weight equivalents in our patterns, it is something for us to consider in the future. Thanks for writing and glad you like the pattern!
Hello! I was just thinking about starting the project today, but was wondering if you had any suggestions for switching it to Alpaca Pure instead of the Mulberry. Wanted to make a set to match the Traveling cables hat and I love how soft it is!
Hi Megan,
Thanks for writing us! If I were to switch to Alpaca, I’d probably look at omitting a few of the rib stitches and possibly knitting on a US 4 or 5. Alpaca can stretch, so you want to knit it tightly. Let us know how it goes!
Best,
Adam
Greetings from South Africa ….
please help with wool available here …. is this double knitting? I hate working with 4 needles, but have already had so many requests for these hand warmers that I will have to persevere … thanks
Hi Linda! Yes! The Mulberry Merino is a double knitting or sport weight yarn. Good luck with the pattern and thanks for writing!
Is it possible to get the pattern instructions for magic loop? I do all handwarmers two at.a time with magic loop. I would really appreciate it.
Thank you, Laura
Hello Laura,
Magic loop is so efficient, I agree! While you’re starting off, I would just divide the stitches in half for each cuff to make sure that the cabled part of the pieces aren’t interrupted by the extra loop of needle cording. Since both handwarmers are identical up until the thumb, just follow the pattern as written to that part and then follow the specific directions for each right and left handed thumb constructions. Don’t hesitate to write again with other questions! Happy Knitting!
-Alyson
I opted to knit the longer version and my first hand warmer is working up beautifully. I have reached the palm section and the instructions to knit until the hand warmer is 7 3/4″ from the cast on edge is for the shorter version. Do you have the suggested measurement for the longer version? Thank you.
Hi Anastasia-
This pattern is just for one size of handwarmers but it does have a few tips on how to make them up to 2 inches longer. If you do want to make a longer version it’s up to you how long to make them. I would suggest trying them on to get a sense of how much longer you’d like them to be.
Please let us know if you have any more questions and thanks so much for getting in touch!
Molly
please explain how to do a make 1 left and a make 1 right
Hello Ann!
Here is our tutorial for this technique: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/08/13/make-one-right-m1r-make-one-left-m1l/
Hope it helps! Thanks! -Alyson
These are beautiful and they look warm. I would like to turn them into mittens, can you help me with that?
Hi Sue-
I’m afraid we don’t have a pattern for these as mittens and aren’t able to re-write this pattern at the moment. But we do have lots of great mitten patterns that you can find here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/category/knit-accessories/knit-accessories-type-mittens-gloves-hand-warmers/
Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
I love these mitts!! Might you offer a pattern version which works with DK weight yarn? I’m not experienced enough to re-write the cable bit, but I think it would work well if there were four strands/two crossses instead of six/three. The cable would be set off on the back of the hand (as it is on Vancouver Fog, for example) but would still have the lovely woven look. With hope!
Hello Sarah!
The yarn used for this pattern is Sport weight, which isn’t very far off from DK weight yarn. Which yarn were you thinking of using? With some swatching and possibly a different sized needle, you should be able to knit a DK yarn a little denser in order to maintain the gauge and create this pattern as written. Let us know how it goes! Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
Dear Purl Bee Team, Dear Gina,
thank you for yet another gorgeous pattern. I LOVE the mitts!
I’m knitting them right now – and enjoying the process, too.
In the “Begin Cable Pattern” section there are rows: 1-12 +1-8. In order to make the mitts longer you suggest repeating rounds 1-12 and 1-8 one more time. I’m not sure if I understood it correctly. Does that mean that I should make rows 1-12 then 1-8, then 1-12 and 1-8? OR does it mean: 1-12 then 1-12, then 1-8?
I’m looking forward to your reply – anxious to knit on.
Love- Ewelina
Hello Ewelina!
To make the mittens longer, you should complete rounds 1-12 then 1-8 (in that order) and then repeat that sequence again. This means you’ll be doing 1-12, 1-8, 1-12, 1-8. We’re so happy you like the pattern–happy knitting! -Alyson
I think that may be the wrong advice, as knitting round 1 after round 8 would not work out. 1-12, 1-12, then 1-8 would make more sense, as the gusset rounds after 8 include rounds 9-12 but with the thumb gusset increases. Apologies if I am mistaken. It is a lovely pattern that I am enjoying knitting.
Hello, Concerned!
Thank you so much for writing in! Sorry about the delayed response! To make the hand warmers longer you would knit the cable pattern as follows: knit rounds 1-12, then 1-8 and then 1-12, then 1-8. The cable pattern section does not affect the thumb gusset. We definately appreicate you double checking (mistakes do happen!). Again, thank you for concern!
Best,
Kumeko
At what round do I start the thumb gusset? Is it after the cable set up rounds?
Hello Gemma,
The pattern starts from bottom and works up, therefore the gusset won’t begin until you’ve completed Rounds 1-12 and then the repeat of 1-8 that the pattern calls for. I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have more questions! Best of luck! -Alyson
Thank you for the wonderful pattern! This was my first attempt at cables (and only my sixth knitting project ever), and I loved it. The pattern was challenging, and it took me until the second hand warmer really to get the hang of it, but it was worth it. It was so much fun to knit. Knitted in an alpaca/silk blend, they turned out gorgeous–a great Christmas present for my mom. I knit them with magic loop, and I found that the pattern was written perfectly for that method.
We’re so happy you successfully tackled this lovely pattern! Keep up the good work! -Alyson
Is there any plans to make these full-length mittens, closed at the top? I adore fingerless mitts, but long early walks with my puppy steer me toward a closed-top mitt.
Thank you for lovely patterns and such clear instructions!!
Hello Tyna!
We don’t have this pattern on deck at the moment, but thank you so much for the suggestion! I don’t think it would be too hard to continue the cable pattern up to complete the mitt of the hands and then borrow the decrease instructions from another mitten pattern to finish off. Let us know how it turns out! Thanks for your idea! -Alyson
It would be nice to have a PDF of this pattern so I can open it in my iBook app.
Hello Meg!
If you’d like to download a PDF, simply click PRINT in the top right corner of the pattern page and select the options for SAVE AS PDF. You should be able to easily download it onto your iPad. Let me know if you need any further assistance! Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
Can I use 2 circular needles as if knitting socks? I tend to leave gaps with dbl. points
Absolutely, Patti! That’s always a great alternative to knitting in the round. Enjoy the cabling! -Alyson
Would an 8ply wool be suitable for the cabled mittens. I’m in Australia and not familiar with Soho yarn. Thanks
Hello, Faye!
An 8ply wool is just slightly heavier than the Mulberry Merino that we used, but it should work just fine. I highly recommend doing a gauge swatch in the stitch pattern just to be sure that you get the proper gauge! If you have further questions, please let us know!
Best,
Kumeko
This is an EXCELLENT pattern – very classy!!
Can you offer a suggestion to make them just a tiny bit smaller? Would I drop a needle size?
Hi, Lynda!
Thank you for writing in! Resizing the pattern for the Traveling Cable Hand Warmers is rather complex and we regrettably don’t have the resources to provide alternate sizes. You can certainly try dropping a needle size. I recommend doing a sample swatch to see the size difference. That should give you a general idea of how much smaller the hand warmers would be if you dropped a needle size.
Also, a general rule in adjusting patterns is to try to decrease in areas where there’s less going on, in this case you could try decreasing in the ribbing sections on the palms instead of altering the cable itself, might be a bit easier. We appreciate your question. If you have further questions, please let us know!
Best,
Kumeko
Love the pattern. Could you tell me what ‘make 1 left’ and ‘make 1 right’ mean on the set-up round? Many thanks for your info. I’m looking forward to continuing with this knitting project. Cheers, Sue
Hello, Sue!
Thank you so much for writing in! We’ve got a great tutorial on Make 1 Right + Make 1 Left! You can find that here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/08/13/make-one-right-m1r-make-one-left-m1l/.
If you have further questions, please let us know! Happy knitting!
Best,
Kumeko
Is it possible that there is a typo in the pattern above? I am an experienced knitter, started when I was 9 and am 61 y.o., I have knit cables, lace, bobbles, and many, many sweaters, hats, gloves, mittens, scarves, and baby layettes. But, no matter how many times I have tried this pattern it just won’t come out right! Is anyone else having any issues? I would love to hear from any one with a solution! This is such a beautiful design and I am anxious to make a couple pairs for my daughter and myself.
Hi Sandra,
I am sorry to hear that you are having difficulties with the pattern. Can you describe to me the specific issues that you are having? I would be happy to help you figure out what is going wrong!
Best,
Cassy
Hi Sandra, I’m having problems too, I came here to see if anyone else was struggling. I keep restarting but the pattern is opposite of what it should be – as if I am purling where I should be knitting. Did you find this or am I getting it wrong? Diane
Hi Diane,
Thanks for writing in! I am sorry to hear that you are having difficulties. Sandra found that she had an older version of the pattern printed that had a typo in it that has since been corrected. I would try reprinting the pattern if it was printed quite awhile ago. We would also be happy to try to help you out with any issues that you are experiencing. If you describe the issue and where you are in the pattern, we’ll do our best to get you on track!
Best,
Cassy
Well, I finally figured out where the typo was, in my copy of the pattern, and fixed it; it worked up beautifully! I am so excited to be able to make these and will probably make the matching hat as well. Thank you for such a great design!
Hi, Sandra!
Thanks for writing in! I am so glad you figured out what was going on!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
I’m having some major confusion with the cable pattern repeat. As written, and as mentioned above in a comment, for the longer version, you’re supposed to do rows 1-12, 1-8, 1-12, 1-8. However, moving from row 8 back to row 1 creates a classic cable break, not the continuous lattice-work pattern (it needs a C6B to do this). I’ve had to frog it twice before I figured out what the issue was. My amendment was 1-12, 1-12, 1-8, and the pattern is continuous now.
Is there a scarf pattern for this at all? Would love to have matching scarf and gloves but can’t seem to find it, thanks!
Hi Becca,
Thanks for writing in! We are so glad to hear that the Traveling Cable Hand Warmers inspired you! At this time we do not have a matching scarf pattern, but we will definitely keep it in mind for the future!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Happy New Year,
Try as I might, I can not get the “Set up Row” to equal 60 Stitches. This is what I read:
PFB, P1, K2, M1L, P2, M1R, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, M1L, P2, M1R,K2, P1, PFB, K2, P2 x 6, K2 =58
I think I am leaving out one M1L and one M1R, but not sure where…please assist!
Thank you in advance for your assistance.
Hi Melly,
Thanks for writing in! For clarity, I have expanded the set-up row for you as follows:
PFB, p1, (k2, m1l, p2, m1r, k2, p2,) (k2, m1l, p2, m1r k2, p2,) k2, m1l, p2, m1r, k2, p1, pfb, [k2, p2] x6, k2 = 60
I hope that this helps!
Happy knitting!
-Cassy
I still can not make the set up row come out to 60, maybe I am not doing the (pfb) right. Can you give me the explanation of why I can not get this through my head. Thanks,
Jeanne
Hi Jeanne,
Thanks for writing us. Be sure that you are knitting the directions in the brackets [] the amount of times directed. For example, the pattern states: (pfb), p1, [k2, make 1 left (m1L), p2, make 1 right (m1R), k2, p2] two times. this means that you will pfb, p1 and then repeat the directions in the brackets two times. I hope this is where you were going wrong and that I helped you out today!
Best,
Adam
Would it be possible to get instructions for knitting this in the round? Thank you!
Hi, Jen!
Thank you for writing in! I am not certain that I understand your question, this pattern is written for knitting in the round. Are you looking to knit it flat and then seam it together? Please, let us know!
Best,
Kumeko
Would love pattern using magic loop instead of dpns. I don’t do dpns How to do the thumb would be the challenge for me if I had to adjust the pattern myself. Wondering if that’s what Jen means
Hi Nona,
Thanks for the suggestion about magic loop — we’ll keep it in mind for the future! If you want to do these in magic loop, you wouldn’t have to change anything about the construction of the thumb because one of the “half way points” would be the your end of round. Hope you’ll still try it!
-Adam
Im,just starting on,knitting hats excited to try this pattern for hand warmers, it’s beautiful. Going to use our alpacas fiber. I’ll probably have to go to our local knitting shop to,get some help. Lol. Beautiful pattern.
Hi, these look lovely, and so does your line weight yarn. I’m looking for reasons to buy some!! Do you think these would knit up nice using your line weight yarn? Doing a swatch of course. Thanks for all your beautiful patterns.
Hi Laura,
Thanks for the lovely comment. The Line Weight yarn is a fingering weight, whereas the Mulberry Merino used in this pattern is a DK weight. I think that if you use the Line Weight doubled up you should hit a reasonable gauge. Good luck and happy knitting!
Best,
Adam
Hola!! me lo pueden pasar en castellano?
Gracias, aguardo una respuesta!
Hola Gaba,
Lo sentimos, todos nuestros modelos están en Inglés y no podemos traducirlas.
-Adam
I have finished knitting rows 1-12 then rows 1-8 again. I would like to make the hand warmers longer and your instructions say to repeat rows 1-12 then rows 1-8 again. However, the start of row 8 begins as P2 and to begin again on row 1 it begins as P3. To P3 means purling into a knitted cable. I haven’t read all the comments but have you addressed this? Thanks for your help.
I just saw Sara’s comment and have the same issue. I’m going to try her suggestion.
Hi Judy,
Thank you for writing us. After round 12 it says to repeat rounds 1-8. This is for the sample size. Below that it says Note: If you wish to make the hand warmers longer, repeat Rounds 1- 12 one more time, then Rounds 1-8 one more time. This means that you’ll do 1-12, 1-12 and then 1-8.
Best,
Adam
These were a lot of fun to knit and really beautiful. Thanks for your help. I’ve been knitting the longer version and am presently working on the palm. How long should the hand warmers measure from the cast-on edge before I bind off? I see that the original shorter version is 7 3/4 “.
Hi Judy,
So glad you like the pattern! I’d bind off at at least 9 3/4″. Judging by row gauge the final length will probably be a little longer than this. I hope this helps!
-Adam
After we have finished with the repeat of rounds 1-8 of the cable pattern, if we want to make the cable longer, do we start knitting the gusset or do we finish the cable pattern. As it is my first time making hand warmers, I don’t understand how to make the gusset. Also, if it is possible, could there be a video on how to make the hand warmers?
Also, I just want to know whether in the photo shown, repeated the cable pattern from rounds 1-12 and then repeated rounds 1-8 or there was only one repetition from rounds 1-8. Thank you. I’m sure that when I finish knitting the hand warmers, they will look fantastic.
Hi Sarah,
Thank you for writing in! For the shorter hand warmer you will knit rounds 1-12 and then 1-8 and then start the gusset. If you’d like to make them longer you will knit rounds 1-12 twice and then rounds 1-8. The gusset happens after you have completed these previously mentioned rounds. Unfortunately we do not have the resources to make a video for this pattern, but we will keep your request in mind for future projects! Let me know if you have any other questions!
Best,
Adam
Thank you Adam, I’ve almost finished knitting my hand warmers. I am stuck with joining a new yarn. I don’t know how to join a new yarn when there isn’t an old one to add one. How would I join the yarn?
Hi Sarah,
Thank you for your question! Adding a new ball of yarn is quite easy actually. All you need to do is insert your right-hand needle into the next stitch and loop your new yarn around the right-hand needle as if to knit. Be sure to leave a 6″ tail on your new yarn so you can go back and weave in the end. For the next few rounds you’ll want to control the tension of the new yarn by holding the tail down as you knit. Best of luck and happy knitting! Let me know if you have any questions!
-Adam
Hi there, I found your site recently and instantly loved it! I’d like to start this hand warmers as my next project, and I have a question. I’d like to see if I can add some fleece lining on the inside of these to make them extra warm. I was wondering if I need to increase the size to accomodate it. Bigger needles?
Hi Jeannette,
So glad you found us! Whether or not you will have to make the pattern bigger depends on the thickness of the fleece. In most cases you will have to increase the pattern. I recommend adding more ribbing to the palm side of the pattern. You won’t need to increase too many stitches as both the fleece and hand warmers stretch. Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
Hi There,
I recently completed the Traveling Cable hat and love the soft and squishy feel of the Alpaca Pure, so I ordered more to create the hand warmers to match, with the plan to alter my needle size. I am finding that when making a gauge swatch, I can’t even come close to the right size, even trying with a size 0 needle. About how many stitches of the palm ribbing do I need to omit to get the correct size? Or should I order the recommended yarn and save the Alpaca Pure for something else? I would love to use the Alpaca because I think they will make lovely mitts, but don’t want to make this more complicated than it needs to be.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Kristin
Hi Kristin,
Thanks for writing us! Unfortunately the gauges for the Alpaca Pure and the Mulberry Merino are too different. I do suggest getting the Mulberry Merino for this project or you could also use any DK weight alpaca. The amount of stitches you’d need to make the alpaca work would omit almost all of the ribbing, which would leave you with figuring out how to put the thumb hole into the cable section. It’s just a little too much hassle to make it worth it. Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
How many stitches is the cable alone? I think I might want to add to a sweater. Thanks.
Hi Molly,
What a great idea! The cable repeat for this pattern is 32 stitches including one purl stitch each side of the cable. Best of luck!
-Adam
AWSOME fun pattern to knit! I just finished and mailed the long version in a hand dyed black Merino Silk and cashmere yarn (you were out of any colors my granddaughter wanted) and I have already started a short pair for myself…so fun and not hard
to figure out …had to rip some as you really need 6″ DPs or stitches want to fall off, GRR!…but HIGHLY recommend this pattern..instructions are perfect and easy to follow!
Not sure what make one left and make one right mean
Hi Janice,
Thanks for writing in! Make one left and make one right are both leaning, decorative increases that increase a stitch count while enhancing the pattern. We have tutorials for both that can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/08/13/make-one-right-m1r-make-one-left-m1l/
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Very nice pattern — clear and thorough instructions, and most importantly, classy style. Thanks for sharing this! See a photo of the ones I made here: https://emileneostlind.files.wordpress.com/2016/12/cable-mitts.jpg
I
In my 65 years of knitting I have never had a pattern that gave me so much trouble.
Hi Mary!
Thank you for writing in! We are truly sorry to hear that this pattern gave you trouble! Was there anything specific that was troubling? Please let us know, maybe together we can make sure know one else runs into that same problem.
Best wishes,
Kumeko
I can’t get the needed 60 stitches on the set-up round. Counting up the increase stitches, I only count an increase of 6 stitches making the total stitches of 58 not 60. Increases are (pfb) 2 times, (m1l) 2 times and (m1r) 2 times.
What am I missing?
HI Sharon,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I know where the confusion is happening. We repeat all of the stitches in the brackets two times. I find it help to write out the whole row.
The row reads: Set-Up Round: Purl into the front and back loop (pfb), p1, [k2, make 1 left (m1L), p2, make 1 right (m1R), k2, p2] two times, k2, m1L, p2, m1R, k2, p1, pfb, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2. [60 stitches]
Written out long form it would be: (pfb), p1, k2, make 1 left (m1L), p2, make 1 right (m1R), k2, p2, k2, make 1 left (m1L), p2, make 1 right (m1R), k2, p2, k2, m1L, p2, m1R, k2, p1, pfb, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2. [60 stitches]
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thank you for clarifying, I was having trouble with it as well.
Hi. Sorry but I have to disagree with this completely. This pattern was perfect! I’ve been knitting for 3 years and this is the first fingerless mittens pattern that did not give me any grief. Clear instructions and tutorial. Purl Soho – Thank you for sharing this wonderful pattern. My gloves turned out beautiful! Can’t wait to make these for Christmas!
What a beautiful and beautifully written pattern! I’m really enjoying this project. One question-the pattern says 7 3/4″ for length but what if you’ve done the “extended version”?
Thank you!
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for the wonderful comment! The extended version gets you to 9 3/4″. Happy knitting!
-Adam
Hello – Will I get the longer gloves from 200 metres yarn – medium size?
Thank-you for this lovely pattern!
Hi Gillian,
Thanks for writing in! To make the longer version of these hand warmers, you will need most of 1 skein of Mulberry Merino which comes in 247 yard skeins. This translates to roughly 225 meters.
I hope that that helps!
Cassy
at the cuff ,what is the set up round?
make 1 right or left , what does that means?
thank you in advance
maria prinianaki
Hi Maria,
Thanks for the question! The set up round at the cuff is for increasing the amount of stitches so you can create the cable. Since cables tend to pull the fabric in you need to increase your stitch count so the fabric doesn’t get too tight. Also, the increases set you up with the correct amount of stitches to complete the cable on the top of the hand. Make 1 right/left are increases and you can find the tutorial link here.
All the best,
Adam
Can you tell me what size needles please. I’ve looked and looked but cannot see it anywhere. Many thanks for the beautiful pattern too
Hi Anita,
Thanks for writing in! These lovely hand warmers use a set of US 4 double pointed needles. The complete list of what you will need can be found in the Materials section above!
Best,
Cassy
6″ or 8″ needles?
Hello Beatrix,
Great question! Either size will work well for this pattern, though I would select the 6″ as I prefer working with smaller double pointed needles.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello.
At the “starting the cuff” what do you mean by our into the front and back? Ive watched the M1L and M1R tutorial but its still not making sense,
Thank you heaps.
Hi Amber,
We have a tutorial video on our online site for how to Purl in the front and back stitch (PFB) which I find very useful. If you go to the Purl home page, click on create, then knit, in the knit menu click tutorials and scroll down to increases and the video is there.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
Thanks Melissa.
I’ve almost completed and love. Can I buy or do you have a pattern for children’s hand? Say for a 1 and 4 year old?
Love them.
Amber
Hi Amber,
I am so happy about the hand warmers. For children we have many varieties of mitten patterns. In our patterns to buy, we have the Learn to knit a hat and hand warmers for beginners, it is geared towards adults, but the hand warmer is literally a knitted rectangle and you sew up the side,there is no thumb gusset, so you can basically make it as big or small as you would like, you would just have to change the cast on stitches to a smaller even number of stitches on the needle.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
I love this pattern. It has really clear, logical instructions, no errors, and great photo aids. And I’m so happy with the results…wearing them now. Thank you
Hello Sheena,
Thank you! It is so lovely to hear this.
Warmly,
Marilla
I am also completely lost at the thumbhole round as the pattern says after turning to basically work [p2 k2] X5 into the next stitch for a total of 60 stitches. Huh? You need to correct your pattern to read “finish the round with p2, k2” or the like for a total of 60 stitches.
Hi Faith,
Thanks for writing in! I hope that I can clarify here for you! For the thumbhole round you will, P2, k3, [p4, C6B] 2 times, p4, k3, p2, [k2, p2] 5 times, put the next 14 stitches onto a stitch holder or piece of scrap yarn. And then you will turn the work in order to cable cast on 2 stitches and then turn the work back so that the front side is facing you. At this point, you will purl 2 and then knit two off of the left needle and the row will be completed. You should, at this point, have a total of 60 stitches on the needle. This will maintain the pattern while moving the thumb hole stitches on hold to work later.
I hope that this helps and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Cassy
I am also longtime knitter. I am having trouble with the setup round. I do not understand why I need the extra stitches for the cable round… the total of the cable round is 48 stitches…why the 12 extra. Also it needs to be kept in ribbing pattern. What am I not getting? Thank you!
Hi Pat,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can clarify! The cable rounds will require 60 stitches, maintaining the ribbing across the inside of the hand and accommodating the cable panel on the top of the hand. The first cable row reads: P3, [k3, p2] 6 times, p1, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2. Written out fully, it would read: P3, k3, p2, k3, p2, k3, p2, k3, p2, k3, p2, k3, p2, p1, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2. This is a total of 60 stitches with the k2, p2 maintaining the ribbing on the palm and the k3, p2 section setting up the cables on the top of the hand.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Thanks Cassie, it appears I did read it wrong! Thanks for your response! Pat
I have never worked with double pointed needles. However, I use circular needles frequently. Can this pattern be done following the same instructions using circular needles?
Hi Valerie,
Circular needles would work, you would just have to use the magic loop
Technique.instead of working on 3 DPN’s you would be working on one long circular needle
I hope this helps,
Melissa
Traducido al español
https://www.malapecora.com/patron_gratis_traducido_traveling_cable/
I translated to Spanish
Hello Amber!
I have a question: On page 4 (Palm, both hands) the instructions read:
Work Rounds 11 and 12 of the cable pattern (see the Begin Cable Pattern section, above), then work Rounds 1-12 once.
Do you mean Rounds 1-12 on this same page?
Thanks in advance
Hello Alma,
Thank you for writing in! In this section (Palm, both hands) the “work rounds 1-12” is in reference to the Begin Cable Pattern section, earlier on in the pattern. I hope this clears things up for you! Let me know if you have any further questions.
Warmly,
Marilla
If I knit a gauge swatch in the round to make a 4×4 swatch will I still have enough left in my skein to make the mitts, or should I unravel and use the swatch yarn?
Approximately how many grams are a pair of these traveling mitts?
Hello JJ,
Thanks for writing in! These hand warmers take approximately 160 yards so you will have plenty of yarn to make your gauge swatch.
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Making my third pair for my daughters. Love the pattern!
Love your hand warmers however since my hands are always cold
I continued on and made mitts out of them!
They look fabulous and get so many complements and going to do your hat!
Thank you for such a beautiful and clear pattern to follow!
Keep them coming.
Yvonne
What size of double pointed needles does this pattern require?
Hi Pat,
Thanks for writing in! We used a set of US 4 DPNs. Either the 6 or the 8 inch length would both work well here!
Best,
Cassy
Hi. This pattern is gorgeous. I especially love the look of the cables. I’m going to try to make them for my daughters for Christmas. Would it be possible for you to tell me how to knit these on circular needles vs the double pointed needles? That would be such a big help. Thank you!
Hi Kate!
Thank you for your kind words. I would recommend using a technique called “magic loop”. I’ve seen a few tutorials online that are very helpful if you’ve never done it before.
I hope this helps!
Carly
Had grandson help with pattern and he got it downloaded for me. Beautiful pattern. Thanks.
Hello Soozy,
I’m happy to hear it worked out!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Love them so far! I’m having some trouble figuring out when to start the thumb gusset. On what row after starting the cable pattern should I begin the gusset?
Thank you!
Hi Anneliese,
So happy that you are enjoying this pattern. For the gusset, After you knit rows 1-12 then repeat row 1-8 you will start making the gusset.
Enjoy,
Melissa
So on the 13th row or on the 21st row? I’m sorry, I’m still new to gloves/mittens!
Hi Anneliese,
No worries, you will start the gusset on the 21st row.
Enjoy,
Melissa
It would be the 21st row
Is there a chart for the cables? I find charted patterns much easier to follow. Thanks
Hi Myra,
Thanks for writing in! For this lovely pattern we have only the written directions and not a chart. We will certainly keep your request in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
Hi there! I was wondering why some of the rows (the ones with LC and RC) have only 48 stitches while the others have 60?
Nevermind! I realized I was using the wrong technique for the LC and RC stitches
Hi Erika,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can clear things up. Each round (until you reach the thumb gusset) will have 60 stitches in it. In the rounds that have LC and RC (cables), the cables are worked over four stitches. For a LC, you slip three stitches onto a cable needle, work one stitch and then work the three on the cable needle for a total of four stitches. For a RC, you slip one stitch onto a cable needle, work three stitches and then the stitch from the cable needle for a total of four stitches. For example, round 2 reads: P3, [LC, RC, p2] 3 times, p1, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2. This would be 3 + [4+4+2]x3 + 1 + [2+2]x6 + 2 = 3 + 30 + 1 + 24 + 2 =6 60 stitches.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thank you for this pattern! They match my sweater beautiful!
This is a great pattern, but would be so much easier to follow if the cabling was Charted! I’ve often wondered why uyou don’t post that option as well as text. Perhaps in the future? Until then I shall just chart my own…..
Hi!
Thanks for writing in and for the suggestion! At present we do not have charts available for most of our cabled patterns. We appreciate the suggestion and will certainly keep your request in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
Hi!
I just wanted to clarify. I am making the longer versions of the gloves. The regular pattern in the “Begin Cabling Pattern” section ends with knitting rows 1-8, and then the note for longer gloves says to knit rows 1-12 and then 1-8. Does this mean that I shouldn’t finish rows 9-12 before adding the additional rows? Hopefully this makes sense. Thank you for your help!
Hi Erika,
Thanks for writing in! To make the longer version, you will add an extra repeat of rows 1-12 between the last repeat of these rows and the knitting of rows 1-8 one more time!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
The instructions for the set up row only result in 48 stitches. Also row one is written for 48 stitches. So I didn’t bother looking at the rest. I do a lot of cable knitting, and have made 50 to 60 pairs of fingerless gloves. Is there an erratum for this pattern? I’m disappointed.
Hi Barbara,
I am sorry to hear that you are having difficulties with our pattern! The set-up should result in 60 stitches. I think that I know where the confusion is happening. We repeat all of the stitches in the brackets two times. I find it help to write out the whole round!
The round reads: Set-Up Round: Purl into the front and back loop (pfb), p1, [k2, make 1 left (m1L), p2, make 1 right (m1R), k2, p2] two times, k2, m1L, p2, m1R, k2, p1, pfb, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2. [60 stitches]
Written out long form it would be: (pfb), p1, k2, make 1 left (m1L), p2, make 1 right (m1R), k2, p2, k2, make 1 left (m1L), p2, make 1 right (m1R), k2, p2, k2, m1L, p2, m1R, k2, p1, pfb, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2. [60 stitches]
For round 1 of the cable pattern, I am happy to give you the stitch count for each section!
Round 1: P3, [k3, p2] 6 times, p1, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2.
P3 – Stitches 1-3
[k3, p2] 6 times – Stitches 4-33
p1 – Stitch 34
[k2, p2] 6 times – Stitches 35-58
k2 – Stitches 59-60
I hope that this helps clear things up!
Cassy
Hello!
I am just finishing the matching traveling cabled hat and I used a contrasting color wool of the same type for the brim and switched to my main color once the extra stitches were added and the cable pattern began. However, I didn’t stop to think that I should have probably changed colors a little bit earlier since the twisting of the cables draws up a few of the bottom rows into them, making the color change look like a weird after-thought. Thankfully I can easily cover it by rolling up the brim a little more, but for these fingerless gloves I would like to do the same but without this mistake since there is no way to hide the problem. How many rows before the cable pattern starts would you suggest I change colors so that I don’t experience this issue??
Thanks!
Hi Erica,
Thanks for writing in! I do think that your color change will be a bit trickier here as the ribbing at the bottom flows up into the cables themselves. I would suggest trying about 2 rounds before the cable and see you you like the look of that. You may need to try 3 rounds before if you prefer the look but I’d give 2 rounds a chance first!
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
how much yarn is needed for these finger less hand warmers
Hi Gloria,
Thanks for writing in! These hand warmers take approximately 160 yards. If you would like to make the slightly longer version, they will use almost 247 yards!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thank you. i assume this is knitted in fingering weight.
Hi Gloria,
Great question! These lovely hand warmers are knit using our Mulberry Merino which has a gauge of about 5.5 – 6.5 stitches per inch, making it a Sport weight yarn!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
I’ve made the Traveling Cable Hat and love it. Just started the hand warmers and I’ve worked through Rows 1-12 and and 1-8 but now want to add the 2″ before starting the gusset. Going from row 8 to row 1 I can only P2, not 3 as row 1 requires. Where have I gone wrong?
Hi Chris,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help! If you would like to make the hand warmers a little longer, you will work an additional set of rounds 1-12 before finishing with rounds 1-8. So at the point that you are, you should continue with rounds 9-12 before moving onto rounds 1-8.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thanks very much. If I had taken more time to thoroughly read some of the previous posts, I would have been all set. I’ve just finished the first hand warmer and now half through the second. Thanks again for your response.
Thanks for a great pattern! I still consider myself a beginner so this was my most challenging pattern yet but I really enjoyed the process and the gloves are gorgeous 🙂
I want to make the palm shorter……at what point can I
Knit the setup row to start my ribbing.
Joyce
Hi Joyce,
To make the palm shorter I would probably knit till you get about an inch to cast on edge.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
I just made these and they came out great! I even converted it to work on circulars doing 2 at a time magic loop. Love them! Was a little tricky to make the change, which is my own fault for not writing it out ahead of time but I’m currently re-writing it so I can make them this way without any fuss in the future. Great pattern and they fit nicely though I did have to drop down to a size 2 needle, I think it was my yarn, for sport weight it was pretty big. Thanks for such a fantastic pattern!
Hi Bethany, Would you share your conversation for doing 2@ a time, please.
thank you
I am working on the right hand warmer, page 3, “Repeat rounds 1-8 one more time” After this do you go to page 4, Gusset, Right Hand? Shouldn’t there be a Purl between the (k3,p4,k3) repeats in Round 1?
Thank you in advance for your help.
Hello Alma,
Thank you for reaching out! This portion continues the cable pattern so when repeated it ends up being 6 knits and 4 purls in round 1 of right Hand gusset. Are your stitches not lining up correctly? Is there a specific portion where you are getting off? I hope I can help!
Warmly,
Marilla
Thanks for a great pattern! I am really enjoying it! I’m new to this so I just have a couple of clarifying questions: Where exactly do I start the gusset section and the palm section?
Thank you!
Hello Callia,
Thank you for reaching out! The pattern has two sections in the pattern for the gusset and palm; Left Hand Gusset and Right Hand Gusset. Will begin one or the other after completing the Cuff and the Cable Pattern Portion of the pattern.
I hope this clears things up and let me know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
It’s too bad it’s a pattern that uses double pointed needles. People HATE double pointed needles because they are not much fun.
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for writing in! Although double pointed needles are traditional and are how most knitters first learn to knit small circumference items in the round, they do take a take a bit of practice to get used to, and there are other options now that work just as well. If you prefer, this pattern could certainly be knitted with magic loop, two circular needles, or any other method you like, without any modifications!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Am I able to complete this pattern on circular needles instead of double point needles?
Hello Sarah,
Thank you for reaching out! These hand warmers could be made using Magic Loop instead of DPNs.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi there! I was just wondering- I have rather small hands, and while the circumference of these would work just fine, 7 3/4 inches would almost completely engulfing my fingers. I measured it out, and I think having them stop about an inch shorter would fit my hand much better.
Given this, would you be able to advise me as to how to modify the pattern (i.e. where to stop the palm and bind off without ruining the pattern)?
Thank you!
Hello Melissa,
Thank you for reaching out! The easiest way to to achieve this would be to knit knit to 6 3/4 rather than 7 3/4 under “Palm, both hands” where the pattern was “Repeat last round until hand warmers measure 7 ¾ inches from the cast-on edge.”
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Been wanting to knit this for some time & finally started!
Questions please!!
To make longer version is it repeat 1-8 then 1-12 followed by 1-8?
Or after round 12 repeat 1-12 then 1-8?
Also, when do I start the gusset if making longer version?
Thank you!
Hi Lori,
Thanks for reaching out! To make the longer version of the hand warmers, you will work rows 1 through 12 twice, followed by 1 through 8. You will then immediately start the gusset instructions as written!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I learned to cable with these hand-warmers! It’s such a great pattern and easy to follow. I have gotten so many compliments on them! I didn’t think I’d like them in a DK weight, but they’re perfect!
Hi,
I’d like to make another pair of these (gave my first pair to my mom bc she loved them). It seems like mulberry merino is discontinued. Is there another yarn that you’d recommend or will mulberry be restocked? I really like the texture of that yarn.
Thanks in advance!
Kristin
Hi Kristin,
Thanks for reaching out, and how generous to give away your first pair! While some colors of Mulberry Merino have been discontinued, we do still carry the yarn! You can view our current range of colors by clicking here.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I am having trouble on Row 8 of the Begin Cable pattern section.For some reason I am not coming up with 60 stitches. I only end up with 46 stitches. I believe I am messing up with the [RC, p2,LC].
Hi Trudy,
Thanks for writing in! It is difficult to say what might be going wrong without seeing your work, but Row 8 should add up to 60 stitches. Is it possible that you aren’t working the RC and LC with the correct amount of stitches? Many other patterns define RC and LC as using three stitches each, but for our pattern we used a variation that is worked over four stitches. If that doesn’t help, please send us a picture of your hand warmer at [email protected] so we can troubleshoot this for you!
Best,
Julianna
I just realized what I did I was doing the MIL and MLR instead of the cable.UGH!! Glad I caught my mistake
Totally love this pattern and while needing concentration well worth the effort. Many thanks for making it available to us. Mine turned out great and will be a hostess gift tonight but will make myself a pair later.
I am trying to knit the longer version and cannot understand how I go from Row 8 to Row 1 after finishing the first full pattern repeat (1-12, then 1-8).
Row 8 creates 2 purl stitches, then 3 knit stitches. Row 1 is P3 to start. The RC in Row 8 moves that purl stitch over 3 stitches so I only have 2 purl stitches. Am I missing something? I’d really appreciate some clarity as I was looking on Ravelry as well to see if someone else had this issue to help me solve it.
Hi Kristina,
Thanks for reaching out! You actually cannot go from row 8 to row 1, as you have found out! For the longer cuff, you will knit rows 1-12 twice, and then knit rows 1-8 before proceeding to the gusset.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi! Love the pattern!!
I want to make the mitt longer…but if I knitted rounds 1-12 & then 1-8 again before thumb gusset wouldn’t it be too long before the start of the gusset?
Shouldn’t the length be added after thumb gusset?
Thank you!
Hello Lori,
Thank you for reaching out! This all depends on where you want your length added. If you add length after the thumb gusset you will have a longer mitt of your hands, while if you add it after you will get more length at your wrist.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Sorry to send another message!
Here is why I’m a little confused (I actually reached out once before!)
Here are 2 different responses to the same question abt the longer version:
Thanks for reaching out! To make the longer version of the hand warmers, you will first work rows 1 through 12 and rows 1 through 8 as written in the pattern, then repeat 1 through 12 followed by 1 through 8. You will then immediately start the gusset instructions as written!
AND
Thanks for reaching out! You actually cannot go from row 8 to row 1, as you have found out! For the longer cuff, you will knit rows 1-12 twice, and then knit rows 1-8 before proceeding to the gusset.
Thanks!
Hi Lori,
I apologize for the confusion! I was mistaken in my earlier response – I charted out the cables this time to be sure, and you cannot go from row 8 to row 1. To add length to the wrist or hand, you will need to repeat rows 1 through 12 twice or as many times as you would like, and then work rows 1 through 8 to be on the correct row to begin the thumb gusset. I have edited my incorrect response above so hopefully no one else is led astray, and thank you so much for catching this!
Best,
Julianna
How can I get this pattern to print
Hello Jane,
thank you for reaching out! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
When I create a PDF for printing, the set-up row disappears! Made me doubt my mental health there for a while…
Hi Anna,
Thank you so much for reaching out and letting us know about this! We have had a few similar reports crop up recently of bits of patterns disappearing when trying to create a PDF, but it looks like everything has now been resolved. If you are still experiencing this error, please email us at [email protected] so we can try to troubleshoot this for you!
Best,
Julianna
Hello,
So far I really love this pattern. I’m a pretty new knitter so all of the videos really help. I have a question about the decreases before binding off. I seem to only be able to get my stitches down to 55 instead of 52. I’m not sure what I’m missing.
Thanks,
Maddy
Oh man, I didn’t do the ssk part right. Whoops!!
Hi Maddy,
Thanks for reaching out! I’m happy to hear that you figured it out. Let us know if you have any further questions and happy knitting!
-Marilla
So….for all those that prefer to knit in the round (magic loop)…..
I followed the pattern exactly, but when I joined the yarn after the first round, I did NOT separate into 2 even halves. I set 28 on the “first half” and 24 on the second. It makes the cable section much easier to see and to turn out right. I also started with K2 P2….then knit the final K2 of each round FIRST. I found that this allowed the edges to look more evened out. Hope this helps.
Oh, and I happened to be using a yarn with a faint ombré that turned out wicked cool with this pattern!!
Lovely pattern! I have just made it twice– one pair as a Christmas gift, then another for myself. The only thing I had any trouble with at all was in trying to match exactly the length of the two mitts overall, and the length of the thumbs. (Totally my problem, not the problem of the pattern.) It’s just hard to measure exactly with a tape measure, and both of the sections at issue are short– for me, less than 10 rows each. My note to myself (I plan to make one more pair, at least, next month) is to count the rows as I knit those sections, so I can make both mitts with exactly the same number of rows and be sure they will match.
My knitting teacher explained the importance of developing a shorthand for keeping track of counts and rows with patterns. I have a notebook I use, and most of the time it takes me several times to get it right (meaning I end up starting over a few times.) with this pattern, I counted the cuff as 10 rows, I added 2 stitches to the pick up around the thumb and decided @5 rows plus bind off for the length. I cant depend on my memory so I write it down!
Hi Jeanne,
Thanks for reaching! Thank you for sharing that tip! I also find it very helpful to keep a notebook while I am working on different patterns! It is very helpful having notes on hand, especially if you want to make something again!
All the best,
Gianna
Nice pattern can’t wait to start it
I love the pattern. I would like to try and make these without the thumb gusset ( totally fingerless with only an opening on the side where I would bind the edge. Can I knit this pattern on two straight needles and then sew up the 2 side edges. ?
Hi and thanks for reaching out! With a few pattern modifications, I think you could omit the thumb gusset and work these hand warmers flat! We don’t have instructions for knitting the cable pattern flat; however, to do so, on the wrong side rows, you will just have to make sure you knit your knits and purl your purls. I would also suggest adding two stitches to the cast on and working a column of garter stitch on each end of your knitting to create a selvage that will make it easier to seam up the hand warmers when you are done.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
It’s totally possible to split the stitches in half and knit in the round on two circular needles, right? Would that change anything?
I imagine it could work, just using stitch markers to make sure the pattern doesn’t get damaged.
E
Hi Esther,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, you could certainly substitute two circular needles for double pointed needles for this pattern! I would just make sure that the point where you divide the stitches is outside of the cable panel so that none of the cables cross over the join area.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
If you read into the comments a little farther back, I described how to knit this pattern in the round….it’s MUCH better and comes out much more uniform if you:
1.) START every round (from the very first stitch when you join) with K2 (instead of ending the row with that K2). Just do those last 2 stitches first, then proceed to the regular pattern…at the end of every row, the final 2 stitches will already have been done, so go to the next row and begin again with the final K2 of that row.
2:) split the stitches so that you have 28 on the first “half” that you will knit and 24 on the second half. This makes it so that the cable looks very clean. It also helps to hide any laddering that may occur by appearing to be a pattern on the sides of the cables.
I wish I could attach a pic…I have made this pattern 5 times now. I used a yarn that has a gentle ombré just by chance the first time and it is wicked cool!! I have made them both “normal” and by extending the pattern as shown as an option. I’m going to do a double extension next. Can’t wait! ALL of my sisters and sisters-in-law are begging for them!!!
Hi! I’m new to using DPN’s, so please pardon what might seem like a silly question. The pattern says to “Cast 52 stitches onto three double pointed needles.” .. does this mean that we need to cast on 52 stitches on to each DPN for a total of 156 stitches? Or does it mean a total of 52 stitches, and if so, how does that get divided between the 3 DPN’s? Thank you!
Hi Joshi,
Great question! This means that you will be casting on 52 stitches total and dividing them as evenly as you can between the three double pointed needles. It’s not unusual for the number of stitches in a project to not divide evenly by three, so you just have to pick how you want to split them up – in this case, I would probably put 16 stitches on the first needle, 16 stitches on the second needle, and 20 on the third needle. Although you could divide them up a little more evenly by doing something like 17, 17, and 18, since you will be starting with k2, p2 ribbing it’s helpful to have a multiple of 4 stitches on each needle.
Also, looking ahead, when you start the cables, you will probably want to redistribute your stitches again so the entire cabled panel is one one needle so you don’t have to worry about crossing cables that are on two different needles. And one last tip, I find it much easier to cast on all the stitches on a single needle and then slip them to the other double pointed needles, rather than switching needles in the middle of a cast on!
Best of luck, and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi Julianna!
Trick: I put a green row marker on the first stitch of the first needle, a yellow row marker on the first stitch of the second needle, and a red row marker on the first stitch of the red needle. That way I don’t need to worry about moving stitches around. I’m sure you’ve heard this one but am so appreciative of all you guys do I thought I’d pass it along!
Hi Julie,
Thanks for reaching out! That is an excellent tip! Thank you for sharing with us, I am sure many will find this trick helpful!
Warmly,
Gianna
Ok, I’m having a brain fart. I’ve made the left glove no problem. Ive had to restart the right twice now. When you say ” repeat rounds 1-8 one more time”, do you really mean stop after row 7 is done.
If I do 8 then back to 1, the stitches don’t match up.
Hi Meg,
Thanks for reaching out. In this section of the pattern, you’ll need to work through until you’ve completed Row 8 before moving on to the GUSSET, RIGHT HAND section! Interestingly, Round 1 of this section is exactly the same as Round 1 of the GUSSET, LEFT HAND section, as well as Round 9 of the BEGIN CABLE PATTERN section, so if you’ve knit the left hand warmer and Round 9 successfully, then Round 1 for the right hand should also match up.
It’s likely that something may have gone wrong in somewhere in the previous rows to cause the stitches not to align. I’d recommend frogging back a few rounds, or restarting again, and paying very close attention to the movement of the cables throughout the BEGIN CABLE PATTERN section. If you’re still running into trouble, feel free to send over a photo of your work to [email protected] so we can better visualize what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
I really love this patter but I’m so glad to see someone else asking this Q. I’m also having difficulties with that section. What row do we start the gusset on exactly? It sure would help to have an asterisk or italics directing us “start thumb gusset here” or to write that section row by row & then revert to cable repeat patterns. I am so confused.
Q2: I also see a Palm Section. So aside from the gussett and the cable there are changes in the palm? But that can’t be right because there are cabling instructions there for the back of the hand.
I hope you can explain how this is organized for me. Thank you.
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for writing in, and I’d be happy to help clarify this pattern for you! The reason we didn’t write it out line-by-line is because that would be very repetitive, and ultimately cause more confusion because the pattern would end up being incredibly long and even easier to get lost in. For the gusset, you will work all 12 rows of the CABLE PATTERN once through, and then you will work Rows 1-8 one more time. Then, you can move directly to where it says GUSSET, LEFT HAND (or GUSSET, RIGHT HAND, if you’re on the right hand), and begin knitting the gusset!
The PALM, BOTH HANDS section occurs after you’ve finished the gusset and have put the thumb stitches on hold. At this point, you can simply begin working the CABLE PATTERN once more, beginning on Row 11. Once you’ve completed Row 11 and Row 12 once, you’ll work through all 12 rows of the CABLE PATTERN. After that, you switch back to 2 x 2 ribbing, as the pattern indicates. I hope this helps clarify the organization of this pattern!
All the best,
Lili
Yes. Something g went wrong on my second glove. I gave up and back track a little to match as best as I could. I ended up with the thumb hole being higher on one and less pattern on the top of last glove. They look great and just had t9 leave this project It’s a brain teaser being that one must go back and forth. I must have misread ,,, though I am pretty sure I follow instructions. Please put them in reading order next time. Gorgeous pattern!
Hi Patti,
Thanks for reaching out, although I’m sorry to hear that your hand warmers came out mismatched! I’ve double checked the pattern, and it should create two matching hand warmers as it’s written. If you’re finding that your thumb holes are coming out at different levels, it sounds like you may have worked the incorrect amount of rounds on one of your hand warmers. Here’s how many rounds should be in each section for both the right and left:
CUFF: 1 1/2 inches from cast-on edge (which is 13 or 14 rounds, based on the row gauge)
BEGIN CABLE PATTERN: 20 rounds (or 32 rounds if you follow the instructions to make the hand warmers longer)
GUSSET (both LEFT and RIGHT): 14 rounds
PALM: 14 rounds of cable pattern, then 2 x 2 ribbing until hand warmer measures 7 3/4 inches from the cast-on edge
I hope this helps you figure out what happened in your own project, but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! Can this be done on any number of even stitches? I have a tiny wrist, and 52 stitches is way too big for me unfortunately. Could I cast on 42 instead and increase it to 50 for the cable round?
Hi Teresa,
Thanks for writing in! I also have tiny wrists so I understand what your concerns are. I think it might be easier to use a lighter weight yarn and smaller needles to resize, I’ve had to do that several times with patterns, as it’s easier to do than reworking a pattern. If you’re feeling adventurous and do decide to try your idea out, let us know how it goes!
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
Can you please recommend another yarn for this pattern? The shades that I am interested in are either not available in the Mulberry Merino or sold out.
Thank you!
Hi Joy,
Thanks for writing in! Season Alpaca, Good Wool, and Anzula Cricket would all be suitable for this pattern – hopefully one of these yarns has colors that suit you! If not, you can always enter your email address on the Mulberry Merino product page for the sold out colors and we will let you know as soon as they are available.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you so much!
I have made this pattern at least 10 times. Thank you!
I have a question on the set up round. It says it equals 60 stitches, but is only 54. I assume that’s just an error. When I count the total stitches per row after the cuff, however, the number varies from 60 to 54. Can you help me decipher this?
Hi Patti,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help! Starting with the 52 stitches you cast on, first in the set up round you will be purling into the front and back loop (pfb) which is a single increase! Then p1, k2, make 1 left (m1L), p2, make 1 right (m1R), k2, p2 and repeat that two times (a total of 4 stitches increased) next you k2, m1L, p2, m1R, (2 more stitches increased) k2, p1, pfb (another stitch increased.) Then you will finish the round by k2, p2 and repeating that 6 times, and then knit the last two stitches. So there are a total of 8 stitches increased after the set up round leaving you with 60 stitches!
I hope this clarifies things and please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
All the best,
Gianna
Got it. I could not tell what was to be repeated twice. I thought it was just the k2 p2!
Thanks,
Patti
This is a beautiful pattern, thank you! How would I go about having the palm of the hand be plain? Thanks
Hi Fulvia,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! The palm of this pattern doesn’t have cables but rather a rib stitch to compliment the cables that are on the reverse side!
All the best,
Gianna
Right but if I wanted it to be flat, no rib, at what point do I stop/start the plain knitting instead? Thanks, Gianna
Hi Fulvia,
Thanks for reaching out again! You can work in stockinette stick on either side of the cable repeat to eliminate the rib stitch on the palm.
All the best,
Gianna
Great pattern! I want to use your new 100% yak yarn to make both the hat and hand warmers. How many skeins will I need?
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for writing in! I am glad to hear you like this pattern and are interested in using our lovely new Simply Yak! A few things, these hand warmers are originally designed with Mulberry Merino which is a sport weight and the Traveling Cable Hat is designed with a aran/worsted weight and our Simply Yak is a dk/light worsted. So you may need to adjust the gauge of the hat and hand warmers to accommodate a different yarn weight. I can’t say the exact amount of yardage since it is a different weight and you will be able to determine the actual amount when you work a gauge swatch, but I would recommend 2 skins for the hat and 2 skeins for the hand warmers!
All the best,
Gianna
When you say make 1 Right Make 1 left . You you explain how you do that.
Hi Chris,
Thanks for reaching out! We have a great tutorial for Make 1 Right (m1R) + Make 1 Left (m1L) that will show you exactly how to work both increases!
All the best,
Gianna
Can anyone provide pattern modifications to turn these into mittens?
Hi Jeanne,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t currently have the resources to re-write this pattern to include modifications for mittens, but thank you so much for expressing your interest and I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thank you for your response. It’s just that I really like the way the thumb gusset looks!
I have a question about round two of the cable pattern. The total round seems to only add up to 48 stitches instead of 60. What am I missing?
Hi Eileen,
Thanks for reaching out! You will start off by casting on 52 stitches, you will then increase 8 stitches in the set up round which will equal 60 stitches! Set-Up Round: Purl into the front and back loop (pfb- 1 stitch increased), p1, [k2, make 1 left (m1L), p2, make 1 right (m1R), k2, p2] two times (4 stitches increased), k2, m1L, p2, m1R, k2, p1, pfb, (3 stitches increased) [k2, p2] 6 times, k2. [60 stitches total, 8 increased]
I hope this clears things up for you!
Warmly,
Gianna
So I understand the increase to 60 stitches. But when I get to Round 2 of the Cable pattern, I only see 48 stitches. Round 2 is: P3, (LC,RC,P2) 3 times, P1, (K2,P2) 6 times, K2.
In other words 3 + (6)X3 + 1 + (4)X6 + 2.
Which is also: 3 + 18 + 1 +24 + 2.
Which is 48.
I can’t figure out what I’m missing, so I thought maybe it should be (6)X5 instead of (6)X3.
I have the same problem with later rounds too.
Hi Eileen,
Thanks for reaching out again! The pattern is correct as written, in round 2 of the cable pattern you are working over all 60 stitches, not 48.
P3, [LC, RC, p2] 3 times (30 stitches), p1, [k2, p2] 6 times (24 stitches), k2. = 60! Keep in mind that the LC and RC both work over 4 stitches. So you purl 3, [LC, RC, purl 2] which adds up to 10 stitches, you then repeat that step 3 times equaling 30 stitches, purl 1 and then K2 P2 6 times equaling 24 stitches, K2. This will bring you across the entire round, 60 stitches total.
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
Got it. Thanks. I was doing the LC and RC completely wrong. I was only using 2 stitches for each.
Hi! I love this pattern. I am using a little bit of a heavier yarn with size 7 needles, and my gauge ends up being 5 stitches to the inch. I have always had difficulty understanding how to adjust patterns. Would it work if I adjusted this pattern to my gauge? If so, how many should I cast on?
Thank you!
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately this pattern would be difficult to re-write since the cables work over a set number of stitches. Since your gauge isn’t too far off from the gauge of the pattern I would recommend going down in needle size and see if you can get your gauge to 7 stitches per inch instead of 5. That way you can work the pattern as written without any adjustments! I also recommend checking out our tutorial All About Gauge, it is an excellent resource to use!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi. I am still struggling with the set up round even after reading the comments. I end up going from 52 to 66 stitches! I have the correct amount of increases but there are too many other stitches in the pattern. . .
Breaking it down I see:
pfb, p1 = stitch 1-3 (increase of 1)
[k2, m1L, p2, m1R, k2, p2] = stitch 4-15 (increase of 2)
repeated [] = stitch 16-27 (increase of 2)
k2, m1L, p2, m1R, k2, p1, pfb = stitch 28-40 (increase of 3)
[k2, p2] 6 times, k2 = stitch 41-66!
Please help. Where am I going wrong?
Hi Annie,
Thanks for reaching out! I’m sorry to hear that this round has been giving you trouble. I think the way you broke down the stitches is really clever and helpful, but I’m spotting three small errors that look like they’ve been throwing off your stitch count.
In the section that goes [k2, m1L, p2, m1R, k2, p2], you’re correct that there’s an increase of 2 stitches. However, there are only 10 stitches total after the increases, which means that these stitches are actually stitches 4-13 (and not stitches 4-15, as you’ve written). This also goes for the repeated bracketed section; these are actually stitches 14-23, and not 16-27. The last little error I’m seeing is in the next section, which has 11 stitches total after the 3 increases, so it should actually be stitches 24-34. Going from there, the final section will end up being stitches 34-60!
I hope this clarifies things, and please don’t hesitate to reach out again if you have any more questions!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much, your reply is super useful! I realised while I was M1 I was knitting it twice so adding 2 extra stitches instead of a single increase.
Can i knit these mitts flat please
Hi Sheena,
Thanks for writing in! I think that you could absolutely knit these flat, but it would take some modification of the pattern. While we do not have the resources to rewrite patterns, I fully support you trying this out! I think it’s a great idea, so let us know how it goes.
All the best,
Lili
Hi, i dont really understand from the writing how to make it.
Can anybody share a video with this pattern, please? Im just starting my crochet journey and its harder for me.
Thank you
Hi Alexandra,
Thanks for writing in! This is a knitting pattern, not a crochet pattern, and unfortunately, we do not offer a tutorial for this. You can find all of our crochet patterns here: Crochet! If you are interested, I am happy to suggest some great beginner-friendly crochet patterns of ours!
Warm Regards,
Gianna
Hi!
I am wondering if this pattern would work well with Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist? If not, are there any other handwarmer patterns that would work well with W-Twist?
Thanks so much!
Colleen
Hi Colleen,
Thanks for reaching out. I wouldn’t recommend making these with Worsted Twist, since the pattern is designed for a sportweight yarn. Worsted Twist would work great for the following patterns though: Wide Rib Handwarmers, Simple Handwarmers, Essential Handwarmers, Seed Stitch Mittens + Hand Warmers. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Super! Thanks so much, Lili! 🙂
How can I download this file to my tablet to view while knitting? It was trying to send it to my Word app to show it in that format but not working. Do you have this is a pdf format for sharing? It is a lovely pattern my family seem to have fallen in love with and so I’m trying to make each a pair. Hopig to also make each the matching hat as well so looking for that in a pdf format as well please. Thank you. 🙂
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out. To download this pattern, just follow these instructions: If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, click on the “PDF” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window. Once the PDF downloads, just click on the green “Download Your PDF” button!
I hope this helps you access the pattern from your tablet.
All the best,
Lili
I have completed Rounds 1-12 plus Rounds 1-8. I would like to make the hand warmer longer. When I read the instructions, I am directed to repeat Rounds 1 to 12 but, Round 1 starts with P3 and the previous Round only has 2 purl stitches at the beginning of the round. If I proceeded with P3 it would include a knit stitch which is part of the cable. Am I missing something or should I proceed with the longer version using a different row?
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out. After you work the left cross (LC) in Round 12, you will end up with 3 purl stitches in a row, instead of just 2! That way, you’ll be able to proceed back to Round 1. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Do you knit the cable and gusset and palm at the same time? It looks as though the 3 make a round.
Hi Gigi!
Thank you for your question! Yes, you will be working the cable pattern on the back of the hand warmer and the gusset for the thumb at the same time. As you navigate around the thumb hole, you will then continue knitting the palm stitches while maintaining the cable pattern along the back of the handwarmer.
I hope this helps, and please feel free to ask us any other questions!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi thanks for a lovely warm pattern. I think you might be missing a p4 c6 plus following row in round 8, ‘begin cable pattern’ section.
Or perhaps I’ve just created my own pattern
Cheers Jodi
Hi Jodi,
Thanks for writing in! Was this the line you were referring to?
“Round 8: P2, [RC, p2, LC] 3 times, [p2, k2] 7 times.”
If so, it sounds like you may have veered off the pattern a bit since the math checks out as written to me. Please let us know if we’re misunderstanding the question though!
All the best,
Zha Zha
Hiya,
I’d like to make this as true gauntlets (no thumbs or thumb holes) as it gives me more flexibility for how I use them. If I omit the gusset and thumb portion and otherwise work the pattern as written, will that work? Thank you for the advice.
Hi Brittany,
Thank you for writing in with your question! The pattern should work just fine without the thumb and gusset. The most important thing to is to keep in line with the cable pattern and you shouldn’t run into any issues. Please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella