City Gym Shorts in Lana Cotta Canberra
This time of year my head is saying one thing (“Spring is here! Bring on the warm weather duds!”), but my body is saying another (“Brrrr, I’m freezing!”). To appease these dueling forces, I’ve worked out a solution that I hope will make both voices happy: City Gym Shorts in Lana Cotta Canberra!
Our tried and true City Gym Shorts are just the style to make my head feel like it’s dressing for the season, and Lanecardate’s beautiful felted wool is cozy enough to keep my body warm. Together they are a spring wardrobe dream team!
Matching the laid-back style of the City Gym Shorts with the sophisticated Lana Cotta demanded a few adjustments to the original pattern. First, I added a lining layer: in Robert Kaufman’s super soft Cambridge Lawn for women and in Liberty of London’s lovely Tana Lawn for kids. And second, for a more refined look I finished the binding with a clean, hand-sewn edge.
You’ll find the original City Gym Shorts pattern here, and all the pattern updates below. Happy spring! – Corinne
Materials
Kids
- Outer Fabric: ¼ (¼, ½, ½, ½, ½, ½) yard of Lanecardate’s Lana Cotta Canberra. I used Bromide (Blue).
- Lining: ½ ( ½, ¾, ¾, ¾, ¾, ¾) yard of Liberty of London’s Tana Lawn. I used a Classic print called Betsy, Blue.
- 2 (2, 2, 2 ½, 2 ½, 2 ½, 3) yards of Purls Soho’s Liberty Bias Tape. I used Betsy, Blue.
- 1 yard Braided Elastic – 1 inch, White
- A 110-yard spool of Gutermann’s 100% Cotton Thread. I used color 7310.
- A free Kids’ City Gym Shorts Template, printed, prepared and cut out in the appropriate size
Women
- Outer Fabric: ½ ( ¾, 1, 1, 1) yard of Lanecardate’s Lana Cotta Canberra. I used Bajkal (Dark Blue).
- Lining: 1 yard of Robert Kaufman’s Cambridge Lawn. I used Navy.
- 3 (3, 3, 3 ½, 3 ½) yards of Purls Soho’s Bias Tape by the Yard. I used Indigo.
- 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) yards Braided Elastic – 1 inch, White.
- A 110-yard spool of Gutermann’s 100% Cotton Thread. I used color 6250.
- A free Women’s City Gym Shorts Template, printed, prepared and cut out in the appropriate size
Sizes
Kids
To fit ages 2 (3, 4-5, 6-7, 8-9, 10, 11) with finished waist sizes 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25) inches in circumference, unstretched
Women
To fit hip sizes 33-34 (35-37, 38-40, 41-43, 44-46) inches in circumference with around 2 inches of ease.
Notes
- The right side of the wool is the side with the small “V” pattern (as opposed to the side with the ridges).
- The recommended care of Lanecardate’s Lana Cotta Canberra is dry clean only.
Pattern
Follow the pattern as written in the original City Gym Shorts post, with the following exceptions…
Cut
Do not cut the fabrics as described in the original pattern. Instead, follow these instructions:
Fabric
From both the Lining and Outer Fabric, use the pattern pieces to pin and cut…
- Two Short Fronts
- Two Short Backs
The two Front and two Back pieces from the same fabric should be mirror images of each other. To be sure to cut them with the proper orientation, cut one with the right side of the fabric facing up and one with the wrong side of the fabric facing up, or you can fold the fabric with the right or wrong sides facing each other and cut through both layers at once.
From the Lining Fabric only, also cut…
One piece for the Waistband:
For Kids, it should measure 4 ¾ by 23 (24 ¼, 26 ¾, 28 ¾, 30 ¾, 32 ½, 33 ½) inches. For Women, it should measure 4 ¾ by 36 ¼ (38 ½, 41 ¾, 45 ½, 48) inches.
Bias Tape
For Kids, cut the Bias Tape into two 30 (33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48)- inch pieces.
For Women, cut the Bias Tape into two 48 (50, 53, 56, 60)- inch pieces.
Elastic
For Kids, trim the Elastic to 19 ½ (20 ½, 21 ½, 22 ½, 23 ½, 24 ½, 25 ½) inches.
For Women, trim the Elastic to 30 (32, 35, 39, 43) inches.
Piece the Front and Back Pieces
Lining
Piece the Front and Back pieces of the Lining Fabric as described in the original pattern: Using the Lining pieces, sew the two Front pieces together; sew the two Back pieces together; then sew the Shorts Front and Shorts Back pieces together along the short crotch ends.
This is now the Shorts Lining.
Outer Fabric
Repeat with the Front and Back pieces in the Outer Fabric, except do not finish the seam allowances as described. Instead, press the seams open.
These are now the Outer Shorts.
Attach the Outer Shorts and Shorts Lining
With wrong sides facing, tuck the Shorts Lining into the Outer Shorts, lining up all edges and seam lines. Smooth out all wrinkles and pin in place along all the edges.
Sew around the side and bottom edges of the Short (but not the top waist edges) with a long basting edgestitch (about 1/8 inch from the raw edge), making sure to pick up both layers of fabric as you sew.
Attach the Binding
You can attach the binding with a machine stitch as described in the original pattern (though you do not need to make the Bias Tape as described, simply use the two trimmed pieces of the pre-made Bias Tape); or you can finish the binded edge with a slip stitch (as I did here) for an invisible seam. Here’s how…
Open the fold on one long side of one of the Bias Tape strips. With right sides facing, pin the open fold of the Bias Tape around the edges of the Shorts, lining up the raw edge of the Bias Tape to the raw edge of the Shorts. Start at the top corner of one Front side, work around the bottom hemline and then up the Back side, or vice versa.
Machine sew the Bias Tape to the Shorts with a ¼-inch seam allowance.
Now turn the Shorts so that the wrong sides are facing out. Fold the Bias Tape around the raw edge, and using pins or binding clips, secure the folded Bias Tape to the wrong side of the Shorts.
Sew the Bias Tape to the wrong side of the Shorts using a slip stitch. For detailed instructions on how to do this please visit our Slip Stitch Tutorial!
Repeat on the other side of the Shorts with the other Bias Tape strip.
Sew the Side Edges
Pin one Front side of the Shorts to one Back side as described in the original pattern.
If you used a machine stitch to attach the Bias Tape, sew the Front and Back sides together as described.
If you used a slip stitch to attach the Bias Tape, make the following change…
Stitch the Front and Back pieces together “in the ditch” of the seam connecting the Bias Tape to the Shorts.
Repeat on the other side.
Finish
Finish the Shorts as described in the original pattern.
Update 2024: You can explore our current collection of beautiful fabrics and supplies on our page of Sewing Tools + Notions!
Corinne … how do I take care of them … is the lana cotta washable? Thanks … they are beautiful indeed … what’s not to love about a Liberty of London pairing? But wondering if they are practical?!
Hello!
Thank you for your kind words!
The recommended care of the Lana Cotta Canberra is dry clean only, so you would want to care for these shorts as you would any delicate garment.
I hope this helps!
-Corinne
Ah, the cost of the wool is too rich for my blood 🙁
Though it is quite stunning looking, even from my computer screen. I can’t imagine what it would look and feel like in person.
Is there any alternative wool that would be more budget friendly?
Hi Hollie –
Thanks to its fine knit fibers, the Lana Cotta Canberra wool is an extremely soft and fluid fabric, but yes, also a bit expensive!
We also carry the Dorr Mill Wool Yardage, which is a woven, fluffier wool, and slightly less in price. It is also soft and lovely, but not as refined as the Lana Cotta.
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9278-Dorr-Mill-Wool-Yardage
Another great alternative for these shorts would be Robert Kaufman’s Shetland Flannel. It is the softest flannel I know and comes in a beautiful range of colors.
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9570-Robert-Kaufman-Shetland-Flannel
I hope this helps!
Thanks for writing in,
-Corinne
These are super cute and make me wish I had a sewing machine again!
Hi! These are so lovely! What a wonderful idea to use that beautiful wool paired with Liberty. I’d like to try sewing some for a 13 yr old girl and am wondering if you have a pattern that covers that size range. It appears that the girl’s sizes stop at 11 and then pick up again at womens. Any suggestions for the teen set? Thanks so much!
Hi Lucinda –
This is a great question!
The jump from size 11 for Kids to the smallest Women’s size is actually the difference of a typical size jump, but with some small changes in proportion. To make a pair of shorts for your 13-year-old daughter, I suggest going by the sizing listed in the Women’s pattern and making her a pair that will fit her hip measurements.
I hope this helps!
-Corinne
This helps a great deal – thanks so much! I will take your suggestion and go with the hip measurement. Thanks again!
Re. Lanna Cotta Canberra: Instead of dry cleaning could this fabric be washed carefully in tepid water and mild soap and dried flat as one would treat a special wool or cashmere sweater? Dry cleaning with harsh chemicals is never an option for me with lovely textiles.
Thank you for your kind response. Nancy
Hi Nancy –
Thanks for writing in. This is a great question!
The recommended care for the Lana Cotta is dry clean only, but it can certainly be laundered in whatever way you feel the most comfortable. Just keep in mind that it may change the texture of the fabric. We washed a square of the wool in cold water as you described and found that the fabric was slightly fluffier and more felted in the end, but still lovely. I suggest washing a sample square first to make sure you are pleased with the results.
I hope this helps!
-Corinne
Thanks, Corrine
You mentioned the fabric would be fluffier. Not a problem! You mentioned that it would be “more felted”. Not to belabor this issue, but does “more felted” mean that the fabric would shrink even with careful laundering as I outlined in my first inquiry. Or perhaps you meant that the fabric will just become more dense. I will await your kind reply. Thanks. Nancy
Hi Nancy –
This is a great question – and an important distinction! In our experience, the fabric became a little more dense, and shrank slightly, but nothing drastic. To avoid any potential problems with this change in your Shorts (or with any garment), I recommend laundering the fabric exactly as you would like to launder the final piece before you begin sewing. This should avoid any surprise shrinkage or reshaping after all your hard work! But again, with a fabric like the Lana Cotta, which will change with washing, I recommend laundering a test swatch first to make sure you are happy with the results before you wash the full yardage.
I hope this helps clarify!
-Corinne
I love these shorts! Beautiful styling! But… this tutorial is kicking my tail. I am in the process of attaching my binding and I am having a tricky time getting everything to lay flat. I just hope they dont look too homely! I guess I am more of a beginner sewer than an intermediate beginner as I was hoping! 🙂 But I am still very inspired by all that Purl Bee does!
Hi Emily –
Thank you for your kind words about the pattern! I’m sorry you are having a hard time with the binding. A curling blinded edge usually means that the binding strip is pulled a little tighter than the fabric would like. Do you think that could be the issue here? As you are attaching the binding, you want to make sure that the binding strip remains unstretched, particularly around the curves. This can be tricky since the bias binding has a natural stretch that is easy to exploit. This can also happen in the hand sewing portion. If your stitches are pulled too tight the fabric will pucker or curl.
If neither of these sound like the issue, or if you’re just not up for re-sewing, a burst from a steam iron could do the trick to relax the fabric and straighten any curls.
Please let us know if you have any other issues as you work on this project!
Thanks,
– Corinne
Thanks Corinne! Im doing a little better; about to attach my waistband. I think my next pair will go smoother! Rough draft kind of thing. I want to make a fleet of them 🙂 I really appreciated your tips! They helped!
Nice… love that cute floral detail on the shorts!
http://beautyfollower.blogspot.gr
Dear Purlbee,
I love your tutorials. You make so many beautiful things. And your sewing is neat as a pin.
I was just traveling in Norway and Sweden. In one of those countries, I saw a women wearing a knee length skirt that was the same style as your your gym shorts. It was so cute! I wondered how I could make it. I believe this tutorial has answered my question. Now that I know how the bias and side seams are put together, I think I can modify a straight skirt to look like this.
Thank you for being so cutting edge on style. It is so frustrating to see something I like that I can’t buy in my small town or that I can’t find a pattern for.
LaPriel
I can’t seem to find the link to download the pattern, even on the orignial post.
Hello Claire –
I’m sorry the link is hiding from you! You will find it in the Materials list above. The Kids template is the last item listed with the Kids materials and the Women’s template is the last item listed with the Women’s materials.
I hope this helps!
Please let me know if you have any other questions as you work on this pattern!
-Corinne
I was wondering if you could give advice on how to make these in plus sizes?
Hi Samantha,
Thanks for contacting us! I think what I would do is take the measurements of the largest size pattern and see how much percent bigger your measurements are in comparison. It might not come out right the first try, so I would do a muslin first and continue to improve the fit. This takes a while, but you’ll have custom shorts!
-Adam
pattern link pleases
Hi Maria,
Thanks for writing in! The pattern templates are linked above in the Materials section. I will also link them here for your convenience.
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/shortspattern_kids.pdf
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/shortspattern_women1.pdf
Happy sewing!
Cassy
Love this pattern!!! Just finished the non-lined CGS for my daughter & she loves them. Sewing them this way would make them reversible??? Right?
Thanks so much!
Hi Crystal,
Thanks for reaching out, and what a great idea! Yes, since all the seams are finished completely on the inside, you could wear these as reversible shorts! If you try it, please do let us know how they turn out!
Best,
Julianna
Hi there!
Wondering if you think these would translate well in a canvas/twill/heavier cotton?? Thanks!
-Clare
Hi Clare,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, I do think these shorts would work well in a heavier weight fabric, as long as you don’t pick a very heavy canvas. I would stick with something that is mid weight or has some drape, such as our Warsa Linen, so that the gathered waist band doesn’t turn out too bulky.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how they turn out!
Julianna
Any chance you’ll be updating this pattern to be more size-inclusive? I’d love a pair of these cute shorts but I’d have to add 10″ to make them work.
Hi Ali
W are very sorry that our patterns aren’t currently in your size range. We really do appreciate that bodies come in all shapes and sizes and share your concern that patterns be as inclusive as possible. As a small company, we haven’t yet had the resources to offer the scope of sizes we would like to, but as our company grows, we have been steadily expanding that range and plan to continue to do so! Please be on the lookout, and thank you so much for adding your voice to this issue. We greatly appreciate your feedback!
Best
Jessica
I plan to make these in cotton with Liberty lawn bias tape and covered waistband. I will not line the shorts. I will add some inches to the length. How much Liberty lawn fabric will I need to order to make the covered waist and say 4 yards of bias tape from Liberty lawn.
Thanks. Am very excited to make these which will be my gardening shorts.
Sarah
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in! If you are planning on cutting continuous bias binding, I think 3/4 of a yard of Liberty should be plenty of fabric! We don’t have a tutorial for continuous binding unfortunately, but it starts by cutting a perfect square from your fabric, and an 18″ square should yield about 5 yards of bias binding. After that, you will have a quarter yard left over to cut your waist band!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I’m planning to make my own bias tape from Liberty fabric. Can you please advise on the width of the bias tape used in the pattern? Melissa
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for reaching out! I believe the bias tape used in the pattern is 1″ wide, the same width as the braided elastic!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Quiero el patrón
Hi Anabel!
Thank you for your comment. This pattern is available for free and is based on our City Gym Shorts Pattern, with some modifications that can be found if you scroll up on this page!
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Margaret