Purl Soho Pullover in Purl Soho’s NEW Worsted Twist!
Our budding collection of Purl Soho yarn is growing… Introducing our latest inspiration, Worsted Twist! Worsted Twist pays homage to a classic 2-ply farm yarn with its straightforward earthiness and deep sophistication. Spun in one hundred percent of the softest merino wool you can imagine, our newest yarn is so fresh and simple that all of our fall ideas start here!
Its smooth finish makes Worsted Twist a fabulous choice for interesting stitch patterns, and its amazing softness makes it just right for everything that you wear close: cowls, scarves, hats, mittens, sweaters, and blankets. Choose from a palette of moody blues and evocative neutrals, animated by pops of our favorite brights.
Worsted Twist’s timeless look and toasty touch reminded us immediately of our favorite sweater from college. Remember it? The one that kept you cozy at bonfires and football games, on autumn walks and winter adventures? The Purl Soho Pullover is that sweater… only better: classic, comfy and totally beautiful!
With ingenious shoulder shaping and simple design details, the Purl Soho Pullover is a super fun and quick knit. Joelle actually whipped up the prototype in one trans-Atlantic flight! It is knit in one easy piece and is sized for everyone with sizes Child’s 2 (4, 6, 8, 10, 12/Women’s XS, S, M, L/Men’s S, Women’s 1XL/Men’s M, Women’s 2XL/Men’s L).
Pick up the Purl Soho Pullover pattern and get ready for autumn’s first frost! And browse our whole gorgeous collection of Worsted Twist. From gentle Sea Salt and Ballet Pink to rich Peacock Blue and Dark Loam, we can’t wait to find out your favorites!
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
Update: New Yarn
March 2014
The Purl Soho Pullover is also beautiful in our gorgeous Alpaca Pure yarn! Alpaca Pure knits up at the same gauge as our Worsted Twist, but its unique qualities create a significantly different sweater. Alpaca, with its long fibers, is slightly downier than merino. It is also heavier and denser than merino, which means a super cozy Pullover with a drape like a warm waterfall. But a little goes a long way. For a child, the weight of an Alpaca Pure sweater feels snug and comfy, but for adults it might be a little much (stick with the Worsted Twist!).
Update: 2017
September 2017
Now with better sizing, clearer instructions, and fresh graphics, the Purl Soho Pullover remains an enduring classic… Only better! Like the original, we knit up this adult version in our Worsted Twist, now in warm and toasty Wheat Flour.
UPDATE: NOW IN PLENTY
MARCH 2022
We’re returning to this classic Purl Soho pattern in order to offer more adult sizes and because we couldn’t resist knitting it up in our super-duper soft Plenty. One hundred percent extra fine merino with a distinctive spin and very lively bounce, Plenty knits up into a plump, smooth fabric, just perfect for this essential sweater!
Designed by Purl Soho founder and co-owner, Joelle Hoverson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoPullover, and #PurlSohoWorstedTwist. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
In addition to a Purl Soho Pullover pattern, you’ll need…
- 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 9, 10) skeins for Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist, 100% Merino Wool. Each skein is 164 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 492 (656, 656, 820, 820, 984, 1148, 1312, 1212, 1476, 1640) yards required.
- A US size 8 (5 mm), 20-inch to 32-inch circular needle for body of sweater
- A US size 8, 16-inch circular needle for neck of sweater
- A set of US 8, double pointed needles or 12-inch circular needle for sleeves
- A US 7 (4.5 mm), 16-inch circular needle for neck of sweater
- Removable stitch markers (including 1 in contrasting color)
- Stitch holders of scrap yarn
Gauge
4¼ stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch, using larger needle
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
Child’s 2 (4, 6, 8, 10, 12/Woman’s XSmall, Woman’s Small, Woman’s Medium, Woman’s Large/Man’s Small, Woman’s 1X-Large/Men’s Medium, Woman’s 2X-Large/Man’s Large)
- Finished Chest Circumference: 20¼ (22, 24, 26¼, 28¼, 30, 32, 36¼, 40, 44¼, 48) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 16½ (17½, 19, 20, 21½, 22½, 26, 26, 28, 28½, 28½) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 10¾ (10¾, 12, 12¾, 14¼, 14¾, 17½, 16¾, 18½, 18½, 17) inches
Pattern
The Purl Soho Pullover pattern is available as a PDF download!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
What wonderful looking yarn! xo
Hi,
This looks beautiful! How do you get needles on a transatlantic flight? Is it on certain airlines? Would really love to know.
Thanks so much,
Harebells
Would it be possible to purchase this pattern as a PDF, rather than having it sent by mail? It looks lovely, and I would prefer not to wait.
Thanks,
Jennifer
Would love to make but stymied how many skeins to buy for a women's size 10-12!
Can you assist?
Thank you.
Hi Jennifer-
Unfortunately we don't have the capability to do that right now but it's something we'd like to do in the future.
Thanks so much for getting in touch!
Molly
Hi Harebells-
It was on Delta, I had the addi circulars. I've never had a problem with them except about 10 years ago on an internal flight in Australia.
Thanks for your question!
Joelle
Hello
It's wonderfull !
Could you tell me if you deliver in France and if the explanation for the knitting sweater are translated into French?
Thank you in advance
Is it possible to buy the pattern in the Soho store along with the yarn?
Thanks!
Hi Chermia-
Yes, we have the patterns and yarn at the store in Soho. So please stop on by!
Thanks!
Molly
Hi Kabi-
We do ship to France but this pattern is only in English.
Thank you so much for getting in touch!
Molly
Hi there,
is it possible to get this pattern as a pdf document to avoid shipping?
I would love to knit it, but shipping to Germany is so expensive!
Thanks
Sabine
Hi Sabine-
Unfortunately we don't have the ability to sell this as a PDF. However if you get in touch with our customer service department they can ship it to you in a regular envelope for just the price of an international stamp. Here is their email address:
Customerservice AT purlsoho DOT com
Thank you!
Molly
Wondering about Barbara's question, too…how many skeins for a women's M or L?
How in the world did you manage to create a palette that is near identical to the 2013 Farrow & Ball collection?
http://us.farrow-ball.com/all/newcolours/fcp-category/list?resetFilters=true
Eerie.
Hi Merci-
We love Farrow and Ball so it's great to see that they seem to have been inspired by similar color relationships. It must be something in the air!
Thanks for writing in!
Molly
Is this meant to have negative ease? Or 2 inches ease?
Hi Katie
Joelle says anywhere from 0 to 2 inches and that she prefers 2.
Thank you!
Molly
Is there really no way y'all could scan the hard copy of the pattern and send it as a PDF to those who purchase the pattern and request the PDF? For those of us in hard-to-reach locations with unreliable postal services, it would be greatly appreciated! 🙂
Hi Lucy-
I totally understand your frustration and we are working on having PDFs available for sale on our site. I know it seems like it should be simple but our site has a lot of working parts and we want to present them in the easiest and best way possible. They will be available soon though!
Thank you for getting in touch about this and for your patience!
Molly
I'm relatively new to knitting, and I am wondering whether this pattern would be a good choice for someone knitting a sweater for the first time? Thank you!
Hi Dianne-
This would be a great first sweater! You can feel free to ask us any questions about it as you go. Thanks for getting in touch and good luck with it!
Molly
I'm working my way through this pattern, and though I'm getting the stated stitch gauge, mine is coming out a bit long. Would you be able to list the recommended row gauge? Thanks! 🙂
Hello Emmalee-
The row gauge is 6.5 rows per inch.
Thank you!
Molly
Hi, Molly,
I am knitting this right now and I have a question on the Shape the Shoulders section. In the previous section, you have (for the Women's size Medium) 12 stitches for each sleeve. Then, you instruct to knit 1 round and move the markers 1 stitch to the right for the 1st and 3rd markers and 1 stitch to the left for the 2nd and 4th markers. Wouldn't that make the sleeve stitches total 10 instead of 12 as listed for the end of the Shape the Shoulders section?
Thanks,
Jennie
gradirei avere le spiegazioni dei modelli in italiano . E' possibile? Grazie Anna
gradirei avere le spiegazioni dei modelli in italiano . E' possibile? Grazie Anna
Hi Anna-
I'm sorry but none of us speak Italian!
Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
Hi Molly
I just ordered the pattern but I cannot figure out how many skieins to buy for Woman's Medium.
Plus should I buy a size smaller? I wear size 6/8.
Thank you
Hi Ellemiek-
You should look at the finished measurements to see what size you should make. The way you read the measurements and yarn amounts can be a little tricky so here's an explanation:
The sizes are listed like so:
Child 2 (4, 6, 8, 10, 12/Women's X Small, Women's Small, Women's Medium, Women's Large/ Men's Small, Women's 1-XL/ Men's Medium, Women's 2-XL/ Men's Large)
Which means that for, say, the Women's Medium size you will always follow the instructions/ yarn requirements/ sizing that is listed seventh in from the parenthesis.
For example, again for the Women's Medium, you would need 8 skeins.
Please let us know if you have any more questions and good luck with the project!
Molly
Dear Molly
Thank you for the explanation but I am afraid that when I start this project I will need some more (lots) more help. Maybe it is because I am Dutch or maybe because I am a beginner but the knitspeak is like acabadabra to me! I tthink I understand how to knit the body but after that I am lost. YOKE PREPARATION FOR MEDIUM: Do you mean knit 4 and then put the 8 stitches that you haven't knit yet before these 4 stitches on a stitch holder?
Don't get me started on the sleeves but I will ask you later if I may. I want to work out the pattern before I start.
Thank you
Ellemiek
Hi Ellemiek,
For that step you will knit 4 stitches past the marker and then put the last 8 stitches you knit (which are the 4 stitches before the marker and the 4 stitches after the marker) on a stitch holder. I hope this helps you envision the yoke preparation better! Good luck and please let us know if you have any more questions!
Hello!!!
I was wondering if you might have a picture of this sweater on a man? I am thinking of Knitting this for myself, and despite being employed in a creative field, I am lacking the imagination to picture this in a masculine context.
I am mostly curious to know if it will suit me. I'm a younger guy (29), 6', slight to average build and probably, dare I say, usually found sitting in the 'hipster' neck of the woods wearing a well worn pair of skinny leg jeans and a gingham shirt with my long hair piled up on my head… I know I know…
It looks like it would be ok, but I would love your opinion/advice. Happy new year and happy knitting!
I was looking at the finished sizes and it appears that there is a measurement missing in the list. Perhaps one in between the 32 and 36 1/4 measurements? Thanks!
Hi Sarah-
I don't see what you're referring to. When I count there are 11 sizes and 11 finished measurements but I'm sure I could be missing something. Are you talking about the chest measurements?
Sorry for being a bit dense!
Molly
Hi Molly,
In the Shape Underarm section – K2tog twice means 4 stitches decreased?
Isn't K2tog – 1+1 = 1 – then K2tog again – 1+1=1 – thus we're going from 4 to 2 stitches? Per round.
So that after DECREASE ROUND 1, Knit 1 round, DECREASE ROUND 1, Knit 1 round, by the end of the Shape Underarm section basically, I would have decreased (1+1=1) x 4 thus going from 8 stitches to 4 stitches.
Thus ending up with 208 rather than 204 for the Women's Small.
I hope this makes sense! Confused 😉
Thank you in advance for your guidance, Molly!
Oana
Is a women's medium size equivalent to a women's size 10-12?
Cheers.
Hi Mel-
There is no universal standard for sizing so unfortunately we can't give you a definitive answer. The finished measurements are listed at the very bottom of the story above. I think that a women's 10-12 would probably be more like the large size here.
I hope this helps. Thank you for your question!
Molly
Hi Molly: I have joined the sleeves to the body, ending up with 234 stitches, and I am currently working the Shape Underarm section. I have the markers placed before and after each sleeve, and I am decreasing before and after the markers, so it seems I am only decreasing the front and back. I have made 20 decreases so far, and my front has 62 stitches (down from 71), right sleeve has 45 stitches (down from 46), back has 63 stitches (down from 71), and left sleeve has 44 stitches (down from 46) (214 stitches total). Should I be decreasing a stitch on the front, right sleeve, back, and left sleeve stitches on every decrease row? I am ready to begin the Shape Sleeve Cap section. If I need to end up with 12 stitches for each sleeve, I may be decreasing wrong. I hope I have given you enough information to understand what I am asking. Thanks for your help.
Hi. I want to make this pattern using your worsted-weight yarn. However, my version of this pattern comes in the form of your Cozy,Comfy Pullover in Last Minute Knitted Gifts. The yarn is heavier in this pattern therefore the gauge and stitches cast on are very different. Could anyone tell me what number of stitches I need to start with, then I think I can take it from there. Thanks!
Amy
Hi Amy,
All of the pattern details for a worsted version of the Cozy Comfy Pullover are in the Purl Soho Pullover pattern which you can purchase here:
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9240-Purl-Soho-The-Purl-Soho-Pullover
However, If you don't want to purchase the pattern, you can find the cast on for your size by making a gauge swatch with your yarn and working with the measurements in the Cozy Comfy Pullover pattern. For instance, once you find the stitches per inch on your swatch, multiply that amount by the circumference you want your sweater to be, based on the dimensions in the schematic for the Cozy Comfy Pullover. This will be your cast on number.
Thanks!
Joelle
I am relatively new to knitting, but so far this pattern is going well. I have noticed, however, that although my stitch gauge is accurate, my sleeves are coming out very long. I am knitting the women's small and I haven't made it through the entire "shape sleeve" section and the sleeve is already too long. Can you tell me why the row gauge would be off when the stitch gauge is accurate? My row gauge appears to be about 6 stitches per inch rather than 6.5. I am knitting this in Tosh merino instead of worsted twist, but my gauge swatches turned out accurately (at least in terms of the stitch gauge). I can modify the length of the sleeve relatively easily, but I'm concerned that when I knit the shoulder section, the sweater will turn out to be far too big. Thank you in advance for your help!
Hi Dianne-
Sorry you're having problems with this! First of all I want to make sure you have the latest version of the pattern because we changed the rows between increases to inches because a lot of people are getting a different row gauge. These changes are reflected on our errata page here (under purl soho pullover): https://www.purlsoho.com/create/errata/
If you don't have the latest version I will be happy to forward you the PDF. You can contact me at Molly AT purlsoho DOT com
Your row gauge being 6.5 will make a big difference in the sleeve length but you are correct that you can just modify the length but it should be fine on the shoulder section since there is much less distance on the shoulder section between the decreases.
Thanks so much for getting in touch!
Best-
Molly
Just checking what I think might be an error in the pattern in the length from underarm to bottom edge of the sweater for the Women's Medium size.
The pattern shows this dimension as 16 3/4" for the Women's M. However this seems wrong (too short?). The dimensions for this measurement are listed as follows:
10 3/4 (10 3/4, 12, 12 3/4, 14 1/4, 14 3/4, 17 1/2, 16 3/4, 18 1/2, 18 1/2, 17)"
Should it read 17 3/4" instead of 16 3/4"?
Thanks,
Susan
PS: The 17" length for the Men's large also would seem to be too short (perhaps it should read 19" instead of 17")? I couldn't find these in the pattern errata.
I have finished this pattern and am very happy with my first sweater! I do have a question for you: after I successfully grafted the underarms, I noticed I still have some "holes" at the points where the body meets the sleeves. How can I avoid or mitigate this in the future? I only used the Kitchener stitch on the stitches I had placed on scrap yarn–should I have picked up some more stitches from around the underarm? Or knit more tightly at the joints? Thanks for your help!
Hi Dianne-
This is a very common knitting dilemma and you didn't do anything wrong! Different knitters deal with it in different ways. Some people pick up extra stitches at the edge of the holes while others sew in a circle around the hole to cinch it up. It's not an exact science, you just kind of do what works for you.
Thanks so much for this great question. It's made us think that we might want to do a tutorial about this problem at a later date.
Best-
Molly
I just downloaded the pdf (8/2014). I’m confused by the Shape Shoulders and Back Neck section: “Next Round: Change to smaller circular needle. Knit 27 (27, 30, 30, 33, 33, 36, 36, 36, 39, 39) rnds. Change to 16-inch circular needle.” When do I change to US7 circular–at the beginning of the round or the end (for only 1 round of knitting)?
Hi Em!
Thank you for bringing this to our attention! We agree that this is possibly unclear. You should change to the size 7 16-inch circular needle before knitting the specified number of rows. Then you will switch to the size 8 16-inch circular needle for the 1 extra round and bind-off.
-Thomas
I am wondering if the 0-2 inches of positive ease mentioned in a comment above is accounted for in the pattern, or if I should knit a bigger size in order to have some positive ease in my finished sweater…thanks!
Hi Grace-
The finished measurements are listed in the “Sizes” section of this post. So if you’d like your sweater to have 2 inches of positive ease just make the size that is 2 inches larger than your measurements.
Please let us know if you have any more questions and good luck with the project!
Molly
In shape sleeve for medium, if I start with 4 inches, then increase 3 times (once, plus 2 more) every 61/4 inches, won’t I have 22 3/4 inches, not 19 per the instructions?
Hi Kathleen-
It sounds like you are multiplying 6.25 inches times 3 since there are 3 increases, but you should only have 2 sections of 6.25 inches.
It works out to 4 inches, inc row, 6 1/4 inches, inc row, 6 1/4, inc row. That is a total of 16 1/2 inches. So you should then knit for another 2.5 inches to get to 19 inches.
Please let me know if this makes sense!
Thanks!
Molly
Hi,
I have just added the arms to the body of the sweater. First, do the 4 stitches on the scrap yarn from the arm go down (in the underarm area of the sweater) to later be worked in Kitchener stitch? Second, the yarn now seems really tight on my circular needles( especially, around the arms). I have read and reread this pattern and I think I’m doing it correctly, but something seems a bit off.
Thanks!
Hi there!
You are entirely correct! The stitches on hold will be worked in Kitchener stitch later. Also, the stitches near the arms will feel very tight for the first couple of rounds. The further you work away from the underarms, the more space you’ll have to work around.
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
I am having trouble with the short row part of the pattern. Maybe I am not visualizing it correctly, but it seems as if following the short row part with rows 1-4 would result in 3/4 of the neckline being taller (i.e. more rows) than the other 1/4. How would that be rectified later? Is it that rows 1-4 would be worked on the same section of the sweater between the first and third marker, or would it go all the way around? I feel as though I’m missing something.
Hi Robin!
The short rows should all be worked in one of the 4 sections of the sweater (the back). The purpose of the short row section is to make the back of the neck 4 rows taller, as you mentioned, which will tilt the neck of the sweater forward a little.
Hope this helps!
Thomas
Hello,
This is my first time knitting a sweater and I am a little confused about the step on yoke preparation.
Could you please help me?
I am knitting for Men’s large size.
So at the beginning for yoke preparatio:
I knitted 10 stitches, then placed the last 20 stitches on a stitch holder.
Then I knitted to 10 stitches past the next marker, and placed the last 20 stitches on a stitch holder.
So, now I have 2 stitch holders, each holding 20 stitches.
My question is do I stop here then? Or do I continue to knit the remaining 82 stitches that are still on the needle and haven’t been knitted on this round for yoke preparation?
Thank you so much for your help
Hi Coco!
You’re doing great! You can stop right where you are and begin the sleeves! Later on, since you pick up the yarn attached to one of the sleeves to continue (i.e. you won’t use the body working yarn again), it doesn’t matter where you leave the working yarn. Because of the way stitches work in the round, the half of the round that hasn’t been knitted will not matter.
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
But if you do that, the left-hand needle of the circular will be over there on the left side when you’re supposed to use it to attach the right sleeve to the right side next. Also, when you line up the stitches of the right sleeve with the right side to join them, you’ll find that the sleeve working yarn is on the opposite side of the stitches left on the scrap yarn, so you’ll have to use the body working yarn. I found this is the only way you can do the joining round where it’s supposed to start, just before the right sleeve.
Hi Florence,
Thanks for writing us! The directions are a bit confusing for this part. You’ll want to knit to where you have your body stitches on hold and then match up the on-hold stitches with your on-hold sleeve stitches. Next you’ll knit across your sleeve, joining them to the body section you just knit. You’ll do this for the other sleeve as well. I hope this helps!
-Adam
Thank you Adam, I did what made sense to me and it worked out fine
are there any videos/pictures that can help understand this pattern? I am particularly interested in the parts about joining sleeves. many many thanks!
Hi Ann S-
We don’t have any videos or pictures specifically for this pattern but if you let us know specifically what part of the instructions you’re having trouble with we’d be happy to help!
Thank you!
Molly
Dear Purl Bee,
I’m also a beginner in bottom-up knitting and I’m quite puzzled by the instructions regarding the joining of the sleeves to the body. Am I supposed to transfer the sleeve stitches to the body needles before knitting them as in this video? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEu6Nfjqy8s
If not, could you please explain in further detail how to go about this part of the pattern?
Thank you so much!
Betta
Hi Betta!
You could definitely transfer them to the body needle like in the video, but I would personally go ahead and knit them as I transfer to the body needle. If you follow the directions in this section of the pattern, it will go very similarly to the video, except that you will be knitting all the stitches as you go.
Thanks for your question!
Thomas
Hi,
I’m at the sleeve join part and I’m ready to attach my first sleeve. The way the pattern describes it, I need to knit the sleeve stitches first with the sleeve working yarn then attach the sleeve to the body. However, it seems like I need to start knitting the body stitches first with the sleeve working yarn to get it to attach. Which is right? Because I can’t figure out how to attach the sleeve using the left-hand end of the circular needles to knit the sleeve stitches first using the sleeve working yarn.
Thanks for the help!
Hi Kim!
This is a very tricky part of the pattern and is confusing for most. If you are having trouble visualizing the process, I would match up your stitches on the scrap yarns (the underarm area to be grafted later on) and slip the right sleeve stitches on to the left-hand needle of your stitches for the body. Place your marker so the beginning of round is the right front. Knit across the sleeve stitches you just slipped on to your main needle and continue on to the back. Do the same for the left sleeve, being sure to match up the grafting stitches. If this is still confusing, I would slip your right sleeve stitches on to the long circular needle, then the back, followed by the left sleeve and finally the front. This will orient you to start knitting from the right front and across the right sleeve first. I hope this helps!
Best,
Adam
I’m new to this conversation, but I’m having the same issue. The pattern specifically says “using the left hand needle” of the body circular. I can see knitting the stitches of the sleeve if this “left needle” phrase was not in the pattern. Any thoughts?
Hi Julie,
Thanks for writing us! This is a tricky part of the pattern and can be a bit confusing. If you are having trouble visualizing the process, I would match up your stitches on the scrap yarns (the underarm area to be grafted later on) and slip the right sleeve stitches on to the left-hand needle of your stitches for the body. Place your marker so the beginning of the round is the right front. Knit across the sleeve stitches you just slipped onto your main needle and continue on to the back. Do the same for the left sleeve, being sure to match up the grafting stitches. If this is still confusing, I would slip your right sleeve stitches on to the long circular needle, then the back, followed by the left sleeve and finally the front. This will orient you to start knitting from the right front and across the right sleeve first. I hope this helps!
Best,
Adam
Thank you for that video! That makes it make much more sense. I’ve been stuck for a while now at the sleeve join.
Kat
thanks for this video Betta.
i too am stuck at the same point and the directions are not very clear for those who have never knitted this type of sweater. this video helped visualize how to follow the pattern.
Hello,
Thank you so much for your help last time. I am now stuck again with another question.
I am knitting for the size Men large.
I just finished the last row for Shape Sleeve Cap: in which I knitted 1 round, ending 2 stitches before the end of the round.
Then I followed the instructions to move first (beginning of round) and third markers 1 stitch to the left, and second and forth markers 1 stitch to the right.
So looking at my left hand needle now, I have 3 stitches sitting on the right hand side of the first (beginning of round) marker.
My confusion is when I go on to Shape Shoulders, I am supposed to start Decrease Round 1: [K2tog, slip marker (sm), knit to next marker, sm, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before next marker] twice. But since on my left hand needle, I still have 3 stitches sitting before the begining of round marker, if I do K2tog, I still have one stitch left to go before I can slip marker.
Would you please give me some help?
Thank you so much.
Hi there,
I do understand that this might be confusing! You should k2tog the last 2 stitches before the beginning of round marker as you were before when you performed this row. Therefore, you should just knit the 3rd stitch away from that first marker!
Hope this helps!
Thomas
Have you consider making a size in between 32 and 36 1/2 inches? The small is to snug yet the medium is hanging. Or how hard would it be to customize the sizes on my own?
Hi Anna!
We unfortunately will probably not have an in-between size created. My suggestion is to err on the side of too small – you can block the sweater to be bigger, but you can’t block it smaller. Two inches should be pretty easy to gain if you submerge-block the sweater.
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
I am making the men’s large. Can you tell me how many I inches there should be from the arm hole to the shoulder?
Hi Mary!
It should be about 11 1/2 inches!
Thanks for your question!
Thomas
Can you recommend a superwash yarn for this sweater? Toddlers and hand washing aren’t exactly compatible!
Hi Samantha-
Sure! Anzula’s For Better or Worsted would be a great substitution. Just make sure to get the same amount of yardage. The Worsted Twist Skeins have 164 yards while For Better or Worsted has 200 yards, so you may need fewer skeins.
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/7913-Anzula-For-Better-or-Worsted
Please let us know if you have any more questions!
Molly
I need a little help with the stitch count for women’s M in the underarm/sleeve cap shaping. When I shape the underarm, I end up with 44 stitches in each sleeve and 63 in front and back (the decreases being in the front & back sections). Then I am supposed to move the stitch markers and decrease in the sleeves – but still end up with 63 sts in front and back even though I have moved the stitch markers. It seems to me that the math for this size only works out if I leave the stitch markers where they were. As it is I have 14 sts in the sleeves and 61 in the front and back. Please advise – thanks!
Hi Abigail!
I think it would be a little difficult for me to figure out what might be going on from your comment alone. I’d suggest calling the shop at 212-420-8796, and one of our very talented staff can talk you through this section!
Thanks for your question!
Thomas
I sorted this out and I LOVE my sweater! Thanks!
Hello,
I just bought the pattern for this, in the process of buying the yarn, however I am a little confused how many skeins I need to order? I am looking for the quantity for women XS size.
Thanks,
Hien
Hi Hien!
The women’s XL size is the second size in from the right in the parentheses throughout the pattern. You’ll need 9 skeins if you use our Worsted Twist!
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
Hi,
I am confused with the yoke preperation. I am making woman’s large and when I knit the first 7 stitches and it says to put previous 14 on a holder is that the next 14 stitches or the 7 I just knitted and 7 more.
Thank you for your help!!
Hi Susan!
It means the 7 you just knitted, plus 7 more (from before the beginning of round marker).
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
Hi,
I am just starting on this pullover with the Worsted Twist yarn, US size 7 needles. My gauge swatch is working out to 4&1/4 stitches per inch, and 5&1/2 rows per inch (the pattern’s stated gauge is 4&1/4 stitches per inch, 6&1/2 rows per inch). How important is the row gauge for this pattern? At least in the body of the sweater it doesn’t seem to matter too much?
Thanks!
Hello Yvette,
Thank you for your question! Row gauge can be hard to achieve at times. Since you are getting the right stitch gauge, it doesn’t make sense to change your needle size since your tension seems to be consistent with the pattern. Row gauge shouldn’t give you too much trouble as long as you follow the schematic and the dimensions of your particular size. For example, make sure the sleeves and body of the sweater are as long as your body requires, even if you don’t complete quite as many rows as the pattern suggests.
Hope this helps!
Alyson
Still waiting to download this sweater as my” free” download!
Hi Loree-
Are you having problems with the free download? If so please email [email protected] so we can make sure you get it!
Best-
Molly
I finished the pullover with 2 full skeins of the worsted twist leftover. Can you recommend a hat pattern where I could use this leftover yarn?
Thanks, Cher
Cher,
Thank you for your question. The worsted twist yarn is a great yarn for any hat pattern that calls for a worsted weight. Take a look at the classic cuffed hat: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2014/10/22/classic-cuffed-hat/
If you don’t make it with the pom pom you could even get 2 hats from your extra yarn!
Happy knitting!
Jake
I love knitting this pattern but am confused on the Shape shoulder and back neck section! Do I knit rows 1-4 as stated and then knit rounds 1-3 ? Or are the rows somehow integrated with the rounds??
Hey Louise,
Thank you for posting your comment! You are correct you first knit rows 1-4 as stated in the pattern and then knit rounds 1-3. Since rows 1-4 are short rows you will not be knitting the full round at that section. This makes the back of the neck line higher than the front. Follow the pattern as written in that order and your pullover should all work out!
Goodluck and please feel free to write us back if you have anymore questions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
Am I reading this correctly – the pattern is $35.00??
Hi Carol,
Thank you for writing us! The pattern is actually being sold for $8.50. You can purchase the PDF download on our website here; https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9240-Purl-Soho-The-Purl-Soho-Pullover
Happy Knitting!!
Jake
Hi there, i love this sweater, it’s been pretty easy knitting. However, i’m on the shape shoulders and back neck part, you say: row 1, etc , then wrap and turn (wrp-t) ??? Please explain?
thank you!
Karen
Hi Karen,
Thank you for the comment! The wrap and turn’s are a technique used in short rows. This is when you only knit part of a row and then wrap and turn your work and knit back. This is a great technique for subtle shaping! We have a great tutorial for this technique on our website that you can view here; https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/06/18/short-rows/
I hope this helps and feel free to respond if you have anymore questions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
I would like to knit this flat, not in the round – do you have any mods or suggestions. I have some lovely white cashmere and have been waiting for the perfect sweater to present itself. This is it, simple and with a bit if ease, will drape nicely. Weight is OK but I want to seam it, at least the body part.
Thank you,
Kay
Hi Kay-
I’m afraid we don’t have a version of this that is knit flat. Most of our patterns are knit in the round because we find it much easier. We would be happy to help you through any issues you might have knitting it in the round!
Thanks for getting in touch and sorry we can’t be of more help!
Best-
Molly
I am looking for a throw or afghan pattern, somewhat traditional . So many are done on large needles and bulky yarn. I want something lighter weight
Thank you
Hello, I have a question about the ‘Shape shoulders & back neck’ section of the pattern. I have done the short rows shaping, then round 1 (which is just the rest of the round that has the short rows on, rather than an entire round, is that right?), and have knitted the wraps and wrapped stitches for the 2 wraps done on the knit side. All looking good so far!
However, in round 2, I assume that the 2 wraps done on the purl side also need to be knitted in with the wrapped stitches (it’s not mentioned in the instructions for that round, but there are two little holes if I just knit the stitches as normal!). My question is this: how does one knit wraps done on the purl side, when knitting on the knit side in circular knitting? I’ve tried searching for tips on the internet, but can only find other baffled knitters out there!
Thank you for a lovely pattern – this is my first ever sweater, and I love it, thank you! 🙂
Romayne
Hello Romayne!
We’re so glad to hear that you like the sweater! Bravo for tackling this larger project!
I’ve reviewed the section you’re referencing, and it seems like on Round 1 you need to work all of the stitches on your needles and knit the wraps into the work from the right side during that round. This should rectify all the wraps and potential holes during this round.
Wraps should look the same on both sides of the work, so it shouldn’t matter if you pick them up on the knit or the purl side. Round 2 should be knitting evenly around without anything extra to address.
Please don’t hesitate to write in again with any further questions! Happy Knitting! -Alyson
I’m having this same problem – when I’m knitting round 1 to pick up the wraps, there are two wraps that don’t get picked up until I’m into round 2 (and these are the wraps that were made on the purl side). So when I’m trying to pick up the wraps on the knit side, I just end up with big holes. Are there any links to photo instructions to help me through this section?
Hi Kelsey,
Thanks for writing in with your question! Even though you have wrapped your stitches on the purl side you can still pick up the wraps and knit them with their corresponding stitch on the knit side. To do this you’ll come to your wrapped stitch and pick up the wrap as you’d normally do on a knit side. Next you’ll knit the wrap with it’s corresponding stitch together. I hope this remedies the problem!
-Adam
I am going to start this sweater soon but am hesitating on the size. Is this sweater supposed to have a snug or loose fit? My chest circumference is 32 1/2″, so the small might be a bit snug but the medium could be too loose! Could I knit the small with slightly larger needles to get a better fit and if so what tension would you recommend? Thanks so much!
Hello Pastille,
This is meant to be a boxy, slightly oversized sweater. However, it does respond quite well to blocking and will stretch a bit. Since there is little shaping in the body, having the sweater be more fitted at the bust might not be the worst idea, since the rest of the body will be pretty straight from there down.
Changing the gauge of a pattern is always tricky because then it will affect all of the other dimensions in the garment. If you’re ever in the NYC area, feel free to come by and try on our sample!
Best of luck! -Alyson
Hi Alyson, thank you for your response! Unfortunately I won’t be in ny anytime soon so i will go with your professional advice. So basically you are recommending that I knit the small? Thank you so much 🙂
Hello again!
I would base my decision on how I want to wear this sweater. Would you like to wear something underneath it? Are you planning on machine washing it? If you’re answering either of those questions ‘yes’, then I would maybe knit the Medium. If you would like it to be a more fitted item that you wash more gently and less frequently, I would make the Small!
Hope this helps! Happy knitting! -Alyson
That most certainly does help, thank you Alyson!
I’m confused by the instructions for shaping the underarm—in decrease round 1, am I decreasing on both sides of both sleeves? Does “4 stitches decreased” refer to each sleeve or just one side of the underarm (only) on both sleeves?
Hello Elizabeth!
Yes, you are decreasing on both sides of both sleeves. The markers are placed to distinguish where each decrease will be created. “Four stitches decreased” refers to the entire round, 2 stitches on each side of each sleeve.
Great job piecing together these complex instructions! Best of luck! -Alyson
Is the is a good project if I’ve never made a sweater or anything that needs to be put together? In the last few months I’ve made of leg warmers, cowls, the Flying Geese baby blanket, and I’m currently working on an infinity version of the linen stitch color block wrap. I’m feeling good about all gauge and my knitting rhythm am wondering if I’m ready to jump to a garment?
Hello Kristen!
We’re so glad you’ve caught the knitting bug! Have you made any projects that have sequences of decreasing and increasing? I would recommend making a couple hats and maybe a baby sweater before you jump into this larger item. It does have some portions of short rows, decreases and increases.
Feel free to purchase the pattern, read through it and let us know what specific questions you have. We’re here to support you! Best of luck! -Alyson
The only decreasing and increasing I’ve done was with the Flying Geese but I love your suggestions of baby sweater and hat. Thanks so much for the suggestions!
Hello again, do you think that this sweater could be knit with a wider and longer neck for a more dramatic look? If so, would you have any suggestions as to how this would be done? Thanks in advance!
Hello Pastille!
What a lovely idea! I wouldn’t recommend making the collar of the sweater wider, I think that would create a floppy look that might take away from the sleek lines of the rest of the sweater. Adding more of a cowl neck sounds awesome though! I would just continue knitting until the cowl is about 10″
tall or as tall as you’d like it!
Best of luck! -Alyson
Hi, I’ve just bought the pattern and have been making a list of other things I’ll need…However, I can’t fathom why I’d need two different sized 16” needles for the neck! I want to make the medium women’s size (I’m about a UK 10)
I’m presuming I can get away with just the 32″ size (US) 8 for the body and a size 8, 12″ for the sleeves and a size 8, 16″ for the neck- plus 8 skeins of worsted?
Sorry if this is obvious – I’m just getting into the whole circular needle thing and it’s boggled my mind!
GG
Hello Gail!
We recommend using two different sized needles in order to help the shaping of the neck be slightly snugger at the top without adding decreases. Using the US#7 in addition to the US#8 is definitely not necessary, but really just a suggestion in order to get a nicely shaped cowl neck.
Happy knitting! -Alyson
Hi Alyson, it’s me again 🙂
I have started knitting this sweater and the bottom roll just keeps on rolling and rolling! Will this relax to look more like your image once it has been blocked? This also makes it difficult to measure up from the edge of the roll as the pattern indicates. Any suggestions?
I knit a couple of swatches before starting and my gauge is good on #9 needles.
Thanks!
Hello Pastille!
Yes! Blocking will help the curling ease up a bit. Also the weight of the entire sweater as you wear it will bring the curl down slightly. Sounds like you’re on a roll! Enjoy the rest of the knitting journey! Best of luck! -Alyson
hello. i have just cast on this project and am wondering about the length indicated for the women’s size M. the pattern reads:
“Work in stockinette stitch,
knitting each round, until the piece measures 10¾ (10¾, 12, 12¾, 14¼, 14¾, 17½, 16¾, 18½, 18½, 17) inches
from cast-on edge, or desired length to underarm, unrolled.”
the women’s medium measurement indicated is 16 3/4″, which is SHORTER than the women’s small (17 1/2″). is this an error? i checked the pattern errata section of the website and didn’t find anything about this. also noted that there was a comment with the same question, but i didn’t see a reply.
could you please take a look and let me know? thanks in advance for your assistance!
Hello, Heather!
Thank you so much for your question. The lenghts listed under “Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge” are correct. The reason that the women’s medium is shorter than the women’s small is because the women’s medium has a larger chest circumference than the women’s small. So, the length is lost in the width of chest region. Does that make sense? If not, please respond. Again, thank you so much for writing in! Happy knitting.
Best,
Kumeko
Hi,
I’m knitting this in Worsted twist for my baby boy who is about to turn one.
I assumed the smallest size for him but now that I’ve cast on a total of 86 stitches for body of sweater, it seems like it’s going to be very small, no bigger than an adults hat.
I got the right gauge with my swatch.
Should I go with the size bigger or is size 2 truly for a toddler?
Please help.
Thanks,
Ana
Hi, Ana!
Thank you so much for writing in! Sorry about the delayed response! One of my associates at the New York store is going to email you directly about your question so that we may help you complete your sweater ASAP! Again, thank you for question and your patience!
Best,
Kumeko
I signed up for your email postings and was offered a free pattern upon doing so. I chose this pattern. Wasn’t able to open it. I phoned and spoke to a person who said that she’d get it to me. That was at least 2-3-4 weeks ago and haven’t received it. I’m very anxious to get it.
Hi, Laurie!
Thank you so much for writing in! I am so sorry that you have yet to recieve your free pattern! I want you start on this wonderful pattern as soon as possible so, I have contacted my associates at the New York store about this and they are going to contact you via email. Again, thank you for reaching out to us and I am sorry for this delay! If you have further questions, please let us know!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Could this be made with a bulky weight yarn for extra warmth? Is there a yarn you would recommend?
Hi, Ada!
Thank you so much for your question! This pattern is written for a worsted weight yarn so, you would need to make quite a few adjustments to the pattern in order to use a bulkier yarn. Have you seen our Friendly Fair Isle Sweater (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2014/02/16/lauras-loop-the-purl-soho-friendly-fair-isle-sweater/)? It’s a wonderful (and super quick) sweater that uses a chunky weight yarn. If you have further questions please let us know! Happy knitting!
Best,
Kumeko
Hi. I loooooove purlsoho, but I’m very sad to see this sweater made available only for purchase now since it used to be free, right? I was just about to visit here and get bunkered to knit my first sweater, and then I see the pattern is 8 dollars. So sad. 🙁 I hope this pattern will be free someday, or be discounted.
Best regards, Rainn
Hello Rainn,
Congratulations on starting your first sweater! It is a very exciting project to take on. I am so sorry you are disappointed with the price of our pattern. If you sign up for our email newsletter you can download the pattern for free!
We are very happy to offer most of our patterns free of charge, however, some of the sweater patterns take months of work and many hours to test and get right. There is a long process that includes design, pattern writing, technical editing, sample knitting, photographing, and print layout. We get a lot of help to make sure the pattern works in many different sizes. We hope you understand! If you have any other questions please let us know.
Happy knitting,
Allison
Hi,
I’m working on your Pullover sweater pattern and I’m ready to join the sleeves. However, I’m having a hard time deciphering the pattern instructions.
The instructions say:
Using the left-hand end of the circular needle holding the Front and Back stitches, pm of different color for the beginning of the round, use the yarn attached to the Right Sleeve to knit across.
I tried doing what the pattern described and the sleeve was then attached up-side down. Do you have another way to describe how to attach the sleeves? The only way I can figure out how to do it correctly would be to knit across the back stitches, attach and knit across the left sleeve stitches, then do the same to the front and right sleeve stitches. But that would end me in the wrong place for the underarm shaping.
Please let me know if I am missing something. Thank you!
Hello Kim,
This is a very tricky part of the pattern and is confusing for most. If you are having trouble visualizing the process, I would match up your stitches on the scrap yarns (the underarm area to be grafted later on) and slip the right sleeve stitches on to the left-hand needle of your stitches for the body. Place your marker so the beginning of round is the right front. Knit across the sleeve stitches you just slipped on to your main needle and continue on to the back. Do the same for the left sleeve, being sure to match up the grafting stitches. If this is still confusing, I would slip your right sleeve stitches on to the long circular needle, then the back, followed by the left sleeve and finally the front. This will orient you to start knitting from the right front and across the right sleeve first. I hope this helps!
Best,
Adam
Help! I’m at the ‘shape sleeve cap’ section and I don’t think I have my stitch markers in the right place. Where are they all supposed to be exactly? I have one right where the body and arm meet (on each side), but that’s it. Otherwise I can’t figure out how many stitches to knit during the decrease round. Thanks!
Hi Jules,
Thanks for writing in. You should have four stitch markers total — two at the front where the armholes meet the body and two at the back in the same position. You’ll eventually shift your markers to create a well-fitting raglan shape. Hope this helps and let me know if you have any questions.
-Adam
Perfect, thanks for the help!
Just starting this pattern. I have never knit in the round. I cast on the 43 stitches for the front, do I need to use a separate skein to cast on the 43 stitches for the back? I tried to do the 86 stitches using 1 skein and was not able to join . I am using a #8 circular needle that is 29 inches long. Thank you!
Hi Deborah,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help! Based on the cast on numbers that you are stating, it seems like you are knitting the smallest size. For this size, the body will be knit on a circular needle with a 20″ cable. A 29″ cable will be too long and not allow you to join in the round. Additionally, you will be casting on the whole of the body (back and front) using one ball of yarn and joining in the round!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi!
I finished the body of the sweater and started with the first sleeve, but it is so-so wide! I am knitting a womens M, the body is quite snug, so I definitely don’t want the sleeves to be very wide. I counted that I could knit over 10 stitches less to get it to the size I would like. The pattern does say 10 inches is the sleeve circumference, but that still makes it over 10 cm wide – way wider than my arm.
How can I go about knitting less stitches from the beginning? It will affect the shoulders.
Hi Lilsi,
Thanks for writing in. Making the sleeves smaller is easy — just cast on 10 less stitches. If you want the bicep the same width as in the pattern, you’ll need to equate for how many more times than the written pattern you’ll need to increase in order to get the same amount of stitches. It is important that you increase evenly along the sleeve length in order to get to your desired bicep width. I hope this helps!
-Adam
Like so many others, I need help attaching the sleeves 🙁 Sorry to be so repetitive. I’ve read and reread the other answers to this same question, but I think I’m missing something. I have been able to get all the stitches onto one long circular needle, with the underarm stitches lined up. But I’m getting hung up where to go from here, from placing the marker for the beginning of the round to start knitting across the correct sleeve and in the correct direction for the rest of the pattern. The other answers say to place the marker “so the beginning of round is the right front (I read this as the place where the right sleeve meets the right front of the sweater). Then to Knit across the sleeve stitches you just slipped on to your main needle and continue on to the back.” If I put my marker on the right front, won’t that have all my right-sleeve stitches on the right hand needle, and send me knitting across the front of the sweater, along the left sleeve then across the back of the sweater and ending with the right sleeve? Rather than across the right sleeve, along the back of the sweater, etc. as the pattern directs? I’m so confused! I was going to just put the marker where the right sleeve meets the right front and knit the round normally (starting across the front), but I’m worried that will mess me up heading into the underarm shaping and decreases. Help!
Hi Kelsey,
Thanks for writing in! As per the pattern, the beginning of your round will be the right front where the front body meets the right sleeve. If you start knitting across the right sleeve, you’ll have no choice but to continue on to the back section and on to the left sleeve. Whether your working yarn is coming from the front body or the right sleeve, make sure you start your round by knitting across the right sleeve. This will set you up for the rest of the yoke decreases. Please let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
Hello, I have some leftover worsted twist and would like to use it to knit a sweater for my 3 year old daughter. I was thinking of either this sweater or the Purl Soho Cardigan Coat. I would knit a size 4 although the problem is that I only have just under 3 1/2 skeins of Worsted Twist. Would I have enough yarn for either of these sweaters in size 4? If not, could you recommend another kids sweater pattern that I could use with this amount of yarn?
Thank you so much in advance!
Hi Pastille,
Thanks for writing us. Based on our calculations you will need pretty much the entire fourth skein. You could certainly omit the turtle neck which would save you yarn. Also, you could make the sleeves a bit shorter. If you’d like, the Cardigan Vest pattern takes three skeins for your size.
All the best,
Adam
Can you help with the shape shoulders part of pattern. I am not sure what to do after I move my stitch markers. After doing so I have 3 stitches to right of first marker but pattern say to K2tog sm, knit to next marker, sm, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, twice. How to I do this? What do I do with the leftover stitch since there are 3 to begin with? Thank you
Hi Patti,
Thank you for writing in and our sincerest apologies for the delay! You are quite right. We are in the process of looking at this pattern in depth and will be correcting this issue in an upcoming version of the pattern. At the spot that you are at, you will knit 1 and then k2tog sm. We apologize for this issue and thank you for letting us know and your close reading of the pattern and letting us know about this issue!
Best,
Cassy
Please can you explain……..I have practically finished this pullover but I am unclear as to what needle I use to finish the neck ? The instruction says change to smaller circular needle, knit 36 rounds and then change to 16 inch circular needle, do I use size 7 or size 8 (under list of materials, both sizes are listed for neck) – I have used size 8 throughout so what smaller needle ???
Thanking you in advance
Hi Sara,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help. Here, when we say smaller needles, we are referring to the smaller US size. That is to say that you will be switching from the US 8 to the US 7.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I am French and unfamiliar with certain terms and abbreviations and for the sleeve I am having some difficulties understanding the following:
Increase Round: Knit into front and back (kfb), knit to last 2
stitches, kfb, k1. [2 stitches increased]
does this mean that I have to add one stitch every 2 stitches?
Repeat Increase Round every 2 (2¾, 2¼, 4, 4¾, 5¼, 6, 6¼,
2¾, 2, 1¼) inches 2 (2, 3, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 5, 7, 11) more times.
Can it be possible that that the repeat for the size 40 is smaller that the previous ones (2¾)?
Thank you for your help, and of course if there is a French speaker who could help, that would be fantastic!
Hi Lena,
Thank you for writing in! I hope that I can help!
For the increase round, you will be increasing just 2 stitches in the round. You will be knitting into the front and back of the first stitch and the stitch before the last stitch. In total, you will have 2 more stitches. We do have a video tutorial for kfb that I think could be a big help.
For the size 40, you will repeat the increase round every 2 1/4 inches but you will be doing it 3 times instead of 2 times. I know that this is a touch confusing but it will work for the size 40.
I hope that this cleared things up!
Cassy
I have the pattern for the Soho sweater in Purl’s last-minute gifts book. I would love to make it for my husband who once had a similar sweater and wore it so much that he blasted through the elbows. Problem is: he’s an XL in men’s and the pattern only appears to go to a men’s large. Is there a simple way to scale up the large pattern by, say, using slightly bigger knitting needles or chunkier yarn? My husband runs hot and we live in Southern California so if the weave were slightly more open than shown, due say to bigger needles, that would be fine. I haven’t knitted in years but am eager to get back to it, having recently retired.
Hi Meg,
Thanks for writing in, and we’re happy to hear you’re getting back into knitting! Although it is possible to size up a sweater by changing the needle size or yarn, I would recommend doing a bit of math to make sure you will end up with a sweater that isn’t too big! I would first knit a swatch using the yarn and needles you think will work and measure your stitches per inch. You can then divide the cast on number of the men’s large by your stitches per inch to see what the chest measurement of the finished sweater will be with your modifications.
It may take a bit of trial and error to find the needle and yarn combination that will result in the size you are looking for, but if you are having trouble our updated Purl Soho Pullover pattern does fit up to a 44-46″ chest!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
I would like to knit the Purl Soho Pullover in Mulberry Merino instead of Worsted Twist. How much yarn do I need?
Thanks
Hello Marcia,
Thank you for reaching out! Mulberry Merino is going to be to small for this pattern as written as it knits up at a much smaller gauge. This sweater will work best if knitted with a worsted weight yarn. That being said we do have a beautiful cardigan pattern that is designed for Mulberry Merino called the Top Down Turtleneck pullover . This pattern uses 5 (5, 6, 7, 8, 8) skeins of Mulberry Mernio.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla