Top-Down Turtleneck Cardigan In New Yarns
If the thought of a turtleneck conjures for you a childhood of stifling sweaters and a desperately itchy neck, then it’s time to update your relationship with turtlenecks! Our Top-Down Turtleneck Cardigan is remarkable for its soft fluidity and appreciation for the comfort of the wearer. If only we’d been made to wear a turtleneck like this to Thanksgiving dinner!
The ease of our Top-Down Turtleneck Cardigan starts with the construction and ends with the details. Saddle shoulders that transition into set-in sleeves make for a form-following fit, while rolled edges provide an unconstricted finish. And the turtleneck? In simple stockinette, it drops in a gentle cascade, offering warmth and beauty but not confinement.
But, of course, the pleasure all comes down to the choice of yarn, or in this case, yarns. Because we love options, we knit up two versions, one in our super light and cozy Brume, a blend of wool, mohair, and silk, and one in 100% undyed Andean highland Good Wool, a wonderfully natural choice. Both are gorgeous and will make the perfect Thanksgiving dinner sweater!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoTopDownTurtleneckCardigan, #PurlSohoGoodWool, and #PurlSohoBrume. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
4 (5, 5, 6, 6) (7, 8, 8, 9) skeins of Purl Soho’s Brume, 58% mohair, 25% wool, and 17% silk. Each skein is 273 yards/ 50 grams; approximately 1045 (1210, 1345, 1480, 1630) (1755, 1965, 2120, 2330) total yards required. We used the color Beach Stone. (NOTE: We no longer offer Brume, but choose from one of our other sport weight yarns.)
OR
4 (4, 4, 5, 5) (6, 6, 7, 7) skeins of Purl Soho’s Good Wool, 100% undyed Andean highland wool. Each skein is 383 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1155 (1340, 1490, 1640, 1805) (1945, 2180, 2350, 2585) total yards required. We used the color Heirloom White.
You will also need…
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 4, 32-inch circular needles
- A set of size US 4 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- 9 (9, 9, 9, 10) (10, 10, 10, 10) ½-inch buttons. We used Purl Soho’s Round Corozo Buttons in Mourning Dove for the Heirloom White version and Lilac Mist for the Beach Stone version.
- A Top-Down Turtleneck Cardigan Pattern
GAUGE
25 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
SIZES
34¼ (38, 42½, 46½, 50¼) (54, 58, 62½, 66¼)
To fit actual chest circumference 28¼-31¼ (32-35, 36½-39½, 40½-43½, 44¼-47¼) (48-51, 52-55, 56½-59½, 60¼-63¼) inches, with 3-6 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 34¼ (38, 42½, 46½, 50¼) (54, 58, 62½, 66¼) inches, buttoned
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 23¾ (24¾, 24½, 24¾, 25¼) (25¼, 26½, 26½, 27¼) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 14 (14¾, 14, 13¾, 13¾) (13¾, 14½, 14½, 15¼) inches
- Finished Length from Cuff to Underarm: 16¾ (17, 18, 18¼, 18¼) (18¼, 18½, 18½, 18¾) inches
Samples: The sweaters shown here both are size 42½, worn with 4 inches of ease.
Pattern
The Top-Down Turtleneck Cardigan Pattern is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
Is this pattern suitable for a beginner who knows knitting basics?
Hi Mary Elizabeth,
Thanks for reaching out. I think this pattern would be a good challenge for a beginner. However, I definitely don’t want to discourage anyone from trying it out! So I want to let you know of some of the techniques that the cardigan uses and direct you to our helpful tutorials on them, in case they feel daunting. The Top-Down Turtleneck Cardigan uses German short rows, make-one increases (knitwise), and make-one increases (purlwise).
I’ve actually knit this cardigan twice, and the first time I made it was my first time ever doing German short rows! I can assure you that they were not as difficult as I had previously thought. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I am not a fan of wool against my skin, Do you have a cotton or linen blend yarn suitable for this pattern where I would not have to adjust stitches
& sizing? I would love to try this pattern. Also, I think I would use a zipper instead of buttons as I have in many sweater patterns. Hoping for a speedy response.
Hi Diana,
Thanks for reaching out! I recommend using our lovely Cotton Pure! It is 100% organically grown cotton, and it is a sport weight yarn like we used for this pattern, so you should be able to use it without needing to make any adjustments to the pattern, that being said, I always suggest starting off by working a gauge swatch to ensure you are consistent with the pattern prior to the beginning!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
I’m starting the German short rows but if I follow the tutorial, after I make the double stitch the tutorial has me continuing on the opposite side from where I left the instruction, I.e. the knit/right side. But following the pattern directions it seems as though the increase directions assumed I had completed purling to the end of the purl row where I had done the double stitch and turn. Row 1 says nothing about the marker or finishing the purl stitches. Help!
Hi Kathy,
Thanks for writing in. In this pattern the German Short rows, despite their name, are not very “short” at all! All of them extend across all four stitch markers, so you’ll still be working all of the increases on every short row. I hope this helps clarify things, but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili
could this sweater be made in Santolina or Burnish for a cooler layer?
Hi Kay,
Thanks for reaching out. Both Santolina and Burnish are classified as fingering weight yarns, so they might be on the thin side for this pattern, but I think you can still make it work! Burnish would probably be a better match, and I think it would feel lovely in a cardigan. I would definitely recommend making a gauge swatch to figure out what size needles you’ll need to use, since you may need to go up a size. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Can you make this on larger needles with a heavier yarn. Recommendations?
Hi Susan!
Thank you for your question. While we do not have a version of this pattern with a larger gauge, I suggest taking a look at the Purl Soho Pullover or the Treeline Striped Cardigan patterns, which are both knit using larger needles and a worsted weight yarn! You can also browse our garments by weight here.
I hope this helps you find the perfect cardigan for your next project!
All the best,
Margaret
Has anyone made a chart of this pattern. I find it sometomes easier to understand
especially with the short rows, and increases etc.
thank ypu
Hi Melinda,
Thanks for writing in! I’m afraid that this pattern will be very difficult to adapt for a chart. Charts are generally used for patterns with specific pattern repeats (colors in stranded colorwork, and stitch types in lace, for example).
But if you have a specific question about the pattern, please don’t hesitate to ask us! We’re always happy to answer any questions on our patterns so that you can move forward in your project with confidence.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you
so I’ll ask the question this way. i did the set up row for the increases.
then did the first increase row
now I see **work even in pattern as established for 3 rows, ending with wrong row. does this translate to doing the increase rows 3 times on both right and wrong sides (knit and purl)? or just on knit side which means i would just purl straight across without increases. sorry ??
Hi Melinda,
The instructions “work even in pattern” just mean to work these rows in plain stockinette stitch (plus the edge treatment). That means that on wrong side rows, you will slip 3 stitches with yarn in front and then purl to end of row. And on right side rows, you will slip 3 stitches with yarn in back and then knit to the end of the row. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, a friend of mine wants me to knit this sweater for her but she doesn’t like buttons. Could the sweater be adapted to close with a zipper? I am afraid, however, that a zipper would be too stiff, and take away from the softness of the design.
What do you think?
Are there zippers that are more “fluid” for lack of a better word?
I was also thinking I could hide a short zipper under a buttoned flap so we do not see it but there’s no gaps between the buttons when the sweater is closed? But again, I don’t want the front to look stiff…
So many questions. Sorry.
Thank you for your suggestions (perhaps you can recommend a zippered sweater?)
Hi Christian,
I think that using a zipper instead of buttons would work for this cardigan in certain yarns, but not all. For example, I wouldn’t recommend a zipper if you’re knitting the cardigan in Brume, since that yarn is super light and airy, and the zipper would probably distort the knit fabric with its weight. But Good Wool is a lot heartier of a yarn, so it’ll hold its shape much better with a zipper.
You might be interested in our Invisible Zippers, which are designed to show the least amount of “zipper” as possible! While we’re only carrying one color at the moment (and it’s only 9 inches long), this style of zipper is quite common, so you should be able to find a similar type at your local craft store, or at another online shop.
I hope this helps! I also wanted to pass along our Zipper Tutorial, which might be very useful as you explore this option for the cardigan!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you! I appreciate your time writing a very practical response.
Hello, finally getting started and I already have a question!
Why are we slipping 3 stitches at the beginning of every row? I can see slipping one so the edge doesn’t roll, but I get floats on the wrong side when I slip 3. Am I doing something wrong or is that the intention?
Thank you.
Hi Christian,
Thanks for reaching out. Slipping 3 stitches at the beginning of each row creates what is essentially i-cord edge on both sides of the cardigan! This gives both sides a nice finished look. Once you’ve knit more rows, the tension will even out, and you will not see the floats anymore. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Oh, ok. Thank you. Best to tighten those three slip stitches then, so there isn’t too much of a float to start with?
Hi Christian,
Actually, you will want to make sure not to tighten the slipped stitches at all! Tightening them reduces the row gauge, which causes the edge of the sweater to become cinched. The best thing to do is maintain an even tension, without tugging on the working yarn at all. As you knit more rows, you will not see the floats at all, since the tension will settle throughout the neighboring stitches.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you! Can you tell I’m a novice?
I really appreciate all the help.
I love Purl SoHo!
You’re very welcome!
All the best,
Lili
So I just did a gauge swatch in the brume yarn. I didn’t block it yet because I rarely end up blocking my knits but it looks like 19.5 stiches and 32 rows. I will try blocking it and seeing how much it changes. I really can’t do a smaller needle and hope to finish this sweater ever so I was planning on following the instructions for a smaller size. For example based on my measurements I would 6th sizing option (54) but based on my dodgy stitch math I need 4.85 stiches per inch so I need 95 stiches meaning I would knit according to the smallest size pattern. Thoughts? Please send help
Please send help.
Hi Shen,
Since your gauge is on the large side, blocking won’t likely change it all that much. Blocking is usually useful for making small gauges larger, but not so much the other way around!
But your idea to knit a different size is exactly what I’d recommend in this case. However, the smallest size will be too small. Based on your gauge, you will need to knit the third size (size 42 1/2) to make a cardigan that fits well! Here’s how I figured that out, for reference:
First, I multiplied the number of stitches per inch for your gauge (4.875) by the chest circumference measurement for your original size (54). Then, compare the resulting number (263.25) to the stitch counts around the body of each size (222 (246, 274, 298, 322) (346, 370, 398, 422) stitches). It came closest to 274, which is the stitch count for the third size, so that’s the one you should make!
All the best,
Lili
Hey Lili, thanks for the reply. So I tried starting the collar at the smallest size before I got your reply and with casting on 106 stiches my collar is 22 inches. I was aiming for 19.5 inches that the pattern says i should have for the right chest circumference. I thought I was knitting with about the same tension as my gauge swatch. When I tried counting my gauge again it was 20 stiches by 33 rows which should have landed closer to using a larger pattern as you suggested. I don’t think switching to size 3 needles will fix this. Thoughts?
So that cast on edge is the 19.5 that i wanted. Should the body of the collar be larger already?
I would still recommend following the instructions for size 42 1/2! It’s very difficult to measure gauge accurately when you’ve only knit a few rows, since the tension is always skewed close to the cast-on edge, and especially when the needles are present as well. Your gauge will even out as you knit, and it will likely end up being very close to the gauge you had originally measured from your swatch.
All the best,
Lili
I am already at the the end of the collar so about 5 inches in and I am already measuring about 22 inches across in the collar. Are there measurements for what the you have at the neck before an increase is started? On ravelry a lot of people mention needing to use size 3 needles and mention of the sleeves being bat winged.
Ok great to know! Based on the measurement of the collar so far (22 inches wide, 106 stitch cast-on), your gauge seems to be about 19.28 stitches in 4 inches, or 4.82 stitches per inch.
The reason I still recommend knitting the size 42 1/2 is because the chest circumference of the smallest size will still be too small. The way sizes are graded, the neckline actually increases at a slower rate as you go up sizes than the chest circumference does. That ensure that you don’t have super wide and ill-fitting necklines on the larger sizes!
So when choosing an alternate size when knitting at a different gauge than the pattern recommends, it’s best to choose a size that will fit around your body, rather than basing it on the measurement of the neckline. If you continue knitting the smallest size with a 19.28 stitch gauge, the chest circumference will only end up being 46 inches. Since you were aiming for a size comparable to the original size 54, it sounds like this will not fit well. However, if you knit the original size 42 1/2 at a 19.28 stitch gauge, the chest circumference will end up being 56.85 inches around, which is far closer to what you’re aiming for!
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
I am finally done knitting this cardigan (it only took me 6 months 😜!). I just need to block and sew the buttons.
To my question: I used the Brume yarn, and the fabric is quite delicate. Should I use button backing? I don’t want the button system to be too heavy either…
And should I block before I sew the buttons, or the other way around?
Thank you.
Hi Christian,
Congratulations on finishing your cardigan! Sewing the buttons on without a backing button will be just fine (that’s what we did for our sample)! The buttons need to be pretty small to fit through the button holes, so they should also be lightweight enough not to pull on the stitches. And I’d recommend blocking before sewing on the buttons! That’ll ensure you sew them on in the perfect spots.
All the best,
Lili