New Treeline Striped Cardigan
Back in the very early days of the Purl Bee when we had about a dozen readers, a quarter of whom were our mothers, we posted a pattern for a sweater that we called the Treeline Striped Cardigan. It has endured to this day, enjoying an active life on Ravelry and garnering many comments here on the Bee. Unfortunately, a not insignificant number of those comments have been… egads, corrections!
This pattern is really from the Purl Bee dark ages, from before we had meetings or schedules or plans, let alone editors, but since then, we’ve… matured. And so it’s become time to rescue an old favorite from the annals of glitchy patterns. We’ve corrected some numbers, added a larger size and a schematic, streamlined the wording, and definitely made the whole pattern much more user friendly.
And on the style front, this new version has a more decisive collar (thanks to Faye, our intrepid re-designer!) and an updated choice of yarns. The New Treeline Striped Cardigan alternates between Manos Del Uruguay’s soft and cozy Maxima and Alchemy’s charismatic Kozmos. The result is a textural adventure, full of fascination and beauty!
So get started on the newly simplified (and finally accurate!) pattern here, and if you’re curious about the original, it’s in deep storage right here!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoTreelineStripedCardigan. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Main Color (MC): 3 (3, 4) skeins of Manos Del Uruguay’s Maxima, 100% Extrafine Merino Wool. Each skein is 219 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 570 (670, 725) yards required. We used the color Natural.
- Contrast Color (CC): 3 (3, 4) skeins of Alchemy’s Kozmos, 30% Silk, 26% Mohair, 15% Wool, and 31% Cotton. Each skein is 119 yards/ 45 grams; approximately 357 (357, 475) yards required. We used the color Platinum.
- US 9 (5.5 mm), 32-inch circular needles
- A set of US 9 double pointed needles
- 4 stitch holders
- Six ¾-inch buttons. These are Purl Soho’s Mother of Pearl Buttons – Large
Shop our wonderful collection of aran + worsted-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
Gauge
16 stitches and 26 rows= 4 inches in striped stockinette stitch, blocked (see Stripe and Rib Pattern; for swatching, work in stockinette stitch only, omitting the ribbed stitches)
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
34½ (38½, 42½)
- Finished Chest Circumference: 34½ (38½, 42½) inches, buttoned
- Finished length from bottom edge to shoulder: 21¾ (22¼, 22¾) inches
- Finished Length from Bottom Edge to Underarm: 14 (13½, 13½) inches
- Finished Length from Cuff to Underarm: 17 (17½, 18) inches
EASE: This garment is designed with a 2- to 4- inch ease around the chest.
SAMPLE: Size 34½ is pictured here.
Notes
Since the Sleeves are worked in the round, it is easy to change colors: simply change at the beginning of each round (see Stripe Pattern in the Round, below). When working back and forth, however, this pattern employs a neat technique for working stripes that are only one row high without having to cut and rejoin the yarn. The entire body of the sweater is worked this way (see Stripe and Rib Pattern, below). A circular needle is required for this technique.
STRIPE PATTERN IN THE ROUND
Round 1: With CC, knit.
Round 2: With MC, knit.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 for Stripe Pattern in the Round. Carry the color not in use up the wrong side.
STRIPE AND RIB PATTERN
Row 1: On the right side of the work, using CC, [k1, p1] 3 times (edge stitches, keep in rib pattern), knit to last 6 stitches, [p1, k1] 3 times (edge stitches, keep in rib pattern); do not turn. Slide the stitches back to the right-hand end of the needle, ready to work across the right side again.
Row 2: Still on the right side, using MC, [k1, p1] 3 times, knit to last 6 stitches, [p1, k1] 3 times; turn.
Row 3: On the wrong side of the work, using CC, [p1, k1] 3 times, purl to last 6 stitches, [k1, p1] 3 times; do not turn. Slide the stitches back to the right-hand end of the needle, ready to work across the wrong side again.
Row 4: Still on the wrong side, using MC, [p1, k1] 3 times, purl to last 6 stitches, [k1, p1] 3 times; turn.
Repeat Rows 1-4 for Stripe and Rib Pattern. Note that you work 2 rows on the right side (one in CC, followed by one in MC), then 2 rows on the wrong side (one in CC, followed by one in MC). Never turn after working CC; always slide the stitches back to the right-hand end of the needle, ready to work on that same side with MC. Always turn after working MC, ready to work on the opposite side of the work with CC. Carry the color not in use up the outside edge of the work, being careful not to pull too tightly when working the first stitch in the row.
Pattern
Sleeves
CUFF
With MC, cast 32 (36, 40) stitches onto the double pointed needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Round 1: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 3 inches from cast on edge. Do not cut MC.STRIPES
Join CC. Beginning Stripe Pattern in the Round (see Pattern Notes, above), work Rounds 1 and 2 three times.
SHAPE SLEEVE
Increase Round: Continuing in Stripe Pattern as established, knit front and back (kfb), knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. [2 stitches increased]
Work even in Stripe Pattern in the Round for 6 rounds.
Repeat last 7 rounds 8 (9, 10) more times. (Increase Rounds will fall alternately on a MC round, then on a CC round). [50 (56, 62) stitches]
Continue to work in Stripe Pattern in the Round without increasing until piece measures 17 (17 ½, 18) inches from cast on edge, ending with a MC round.
Final Round: With CC, knit to end of round, remove marker, k3 (4, 5) stitches past the marker, place previous 6 (8, 10) stitches on a stitch holder. [44 (48, 52) stitches remain]
Cut both yarns, leaving a 12-inch tail of MC (you’ll need it later to graft the underarms together!). Put the first sleeve on hold on a stitch holder, an extra circular needle, or scrap yarn and make a second sleeve the same as the first.
Body
BOTTOM RIBBING
With MC, cast 137 (153, 169) stitches onto the circular needle.
Row 1 (right side): *K1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 2 (wrong side): *P1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until pieces measures 2 inches from cast on edge, ending with Row 2. Do not cut MC.
STRIPES
Join CC. Beginning Stripe and Rib Pattern (see Pattern Notes, above), work Rows 1-4 until piece measures 14 (13 ½, 13 ½) inches from cast on edge (or desired length to underarm), ending with Row 4 of pattern.
Yoke
YOKE PREPARATION
Return to Body stitches.
Next Row (right side; Row 1 of pattern): Continuing in Stripe and Rib Pattern, work 37 (42, 47) stitches, place previous 6 (8, 10) stitches on a stitch holder, k69 (77, 85), place previous 6 (8, 10) stitches on a stitch holder, work to end of row. [125 (137, 149) total stitches: 31 (34, 37) stitches for each front and 63 (69, 75) stitches for the back]. Do not turn work; with the right side still facing you, slide the stitches back to the right-hand end of the needle.
JOIN SLEEVES TO BODY
Joining Row (right side again; Row 2 of pattern): Continuing in Stripe and Rib Pattern, work 31 (34, 37) stitches, place marker (pm), k44 (48, 52) across right sleeve stitches (starting with the stitch left of the underarm stitch holder), pm, k63 (69, 75) across back, pm, k44 (48, 52) across left sleeve stitches (again, starting with the stitch left of the underarm stitch holder), pm, work to end of row. [213 (233, 253) stitches, divided by four markers indicating the front and back raglans]. Turn work. Work even in Stripe and Rib Pattern for 2 rows (Rows 3 and 4 of pattern; both WS rows).
SHAPE RAGLAN
Note: Throughout all raglan shaping rows, continue to work in Stripe and Rib Pattern as established.
Row 1 (right side): *Work to 2 stitches before marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from * 3 more times, work to end of row. [8 stitches decreased]
Rows 2-4: Work even in pattern.
Repeat Rows 1-4 two more times, then repeat Rows 1 and 2 once. [181 (201, 221) stitches remain: 55 (61, 67) stitches for back, 36 (40, 44) stitches for each sleeve, 27 (30, 33) stitches for each front]
SHAPE NECK EDGE AND RAGLAN
Row 1 (wrong side; Row 3 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, p2tog, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from * 3 more times, purl to last 8 stitches, p2togtbl, work to end of row. [10 stitches decreased; 2 stitches at each raglan and 1 stitch at each neck edge]
Row 2 (wrong side; Row 4 of pattern): Work even.
Row 3 (right side; Row 1 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, ssk, *knit to 2 stitches before marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from * 3 more times, knit to last 8 stitches, k2tog, work to end of row. [10 stitches decreased; 2 stitches at each raglan and 1 stitch at each neck edge]
Row 4 (right side; Row 2 of pattern): Work even.
Repeat Rows 1-4 three (four, five) more times, then repeat Rows 1 and 2 one (one, zero) time(s). [91 (91, 101) stitches remain: 37 (39, 43) stitches for back, 9 (8, 9) stitches for each front, 18 (18, 20) stitches for each sleeve]
SIZE 34 ½ ONLY
Row 1 (right side; Row 1 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, *knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from * 3 more times, knit to last 6 stitches, work to end of row. [83 stitches: 35 stitches for back, 8 stitches for each front, 16 stitches for each sleeve]
Row 2 (right side; Row 2 of pattern): Work even.
Row 3 (wrong side; Row 3 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, p2tog, *slip marker, p2togtbl, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, repeat from * twice more, slip marker, p2togtbl, work to end of row. [75 stitches remain: 33 stitches for back, 7 stitches for each front, 14 stitches for each sleeve]
Row 4 (wrong side; Row 4 of pattern): Work even.
Row 5 (right side; Row 1 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, [ssk] twice, removing marker, *knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from * once more, knit to 3 stitches before marker, [k2tog] twice, removing marker, work to end of row. [67 stitches remain: 31 stitches for back, 18 stitches for each front/sleeve]
Row 6 (right side; Row 2 of pattern): Work even.
Row 7 (wrong side; Row 3 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, [p2tog] twice, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from * once more, purl to last 10 stitches, [p2togtbl] twice, work to end of row. [59 stitches remain: 29 stitches for back, 15 stitches for each front/sleeve]
Row 8 (wrong side; Row 4 of pattern): Work even.
Row 9 (right side; Row 1 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, [ssk] twice, *knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from * once more, knit to last 10 stitches, [k2tog] twice, work to end of row. [51 stitches remain: 27 stitches for back, 12 stitches for each front/sleeve]
Row 10 (right side; Row 2 of pattern): Work even.
Row 11 (wrong side; Row 3 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, p2tog, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from * once, purl to last 8 stitches, p2togtbl, work to end of row. [45 stitches remain: 25 stitches for back, 10 stitches for each front/sleeve]
Row 12 (wrong side; Row 4 of pattern): Work even.
Row 13 (right side; Row 1 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, [ssk] twice, slip marker, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, [k2tog] twice, work to end of row. [39 stitches remain: 23 stitches for back, 8 stitches for each front/sleeve]
Row 14 (right side; Row 2 of pattern): Work even.
SIZE 42 ½ ONLY
Row 1 (wrong side; Row 3 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from * 3 more times, purl to last 6 stitches, work to end of row. [93 stitches: 41 stitches for back, 8 stitches for each front, 18 stitches for each sleeve]
Row 2 (wrong side; Row 4 of pattern): Work even.
SIZES 38 ½ AND 42 ½ ONLY
Row 1 (right side; Row 1 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, ssk, slip marker, *k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, repeat from * twice more, k2tog, work to end of row. [– (83, 85) stitches remain: – (37, 39) stitches for back, 7 stitches for each front, 16 stitches for each sleeve]
Row 2 (right side; Row 2 of pattern): Work even.
Row 3 (wrong side; Row 3 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, [p2tog] twice, removing marker, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from * once, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, [p2togtbl] twice, removing marker, work to end of row. [– (75, 77) stitches remain: – (35, 37) stitches for back, 20 stitches for each front/sleeve]
Row 4 (wrong side; Row 4 of pattern): Work even.
Row 5 (right side; Row 1 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, [ssk] twice, *knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from * once, knit to last 10 stitches, [k2tog] twice, work to end of row. [– (67, 69) stitches remain: – (33, 35) stitches for back, 17 stitches for each front/sleeve]
Row 6 (right side; Row 2 of pattern): Work even.
Row 7 (wrong side; Row 3 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, [p2tog] twice, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from * once, purl to last 10 stitches, [p2togtbl] twice, work to end of row. [– (59, 61) stitches remain: – (31, 33) stitches for back, 14 stitches for each front/sleeve]
Row 8 (wrong side; Row 4 of pattern): Work even.
Row 9 (right side; Row 1 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, ssk, *knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from * once, knit to last 8 stitches, k2tog, work to end of row. [– (53, 55) stitches remain: – (29, 31) stitches for back, 12 stitches for each front/sleeve]
Row 10 (right side; Row 2 of pattern): Work even.
Row 11 (wrong side; Row 3 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, p2tog, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from * once, purl to last 8 stitches, p2togtbl, work to end of row. [– (47, 49) stitches remain: – (27, 29) stitches for back, 10 stitches for each front/sleeve]
Row 12 (wrong side; Row 4 of pattern): Work even.
Rows 13 and 14 (right side): Repeat Rows 9 and 10. [— (41, 43) stitches remain: – (25, 27) stitches for back, 8 stitches for each front/sleeve]
ALL SIZES
Row 15 (wrong side; Row 3 of pattern): Work to next marker, remove marker, p2togtbl, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, remove marker, work to end of row. [37 (39, 41) stitches remain]
Collar and Front Bands
BACK OF COLLAR
Continue with MC only.
Row 1 (right side): *K1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. At the end of the row, with the right side still facing you, pick up and knit 4 stitches along the neck edge. [4 stitches increased]
Row 2 (wrong side): *P1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. With the wrong side still facing you, pick up and knit (purlwise) 4 stitches along the neck edge. [4 stitches increased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 eight (nine, ten) more times. [109 (119, 129) stitches]
FRONT BANDS
Row 1 (right side): *K1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. With the right side still facing you, pick up 2 stitches for every 3 rows down the left front edge, ending after picking up an even number of stitches.
Row 2 (wrong side): *P1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. With wrong side still facing you, pick up (purlwise) 2 stitches for every 3 rows down right front edge, ending after picking up and even number of stitches.
Row 3: *K1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 4: *P1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until front bands measure ¾ inch, ending with a wrong side row.
Buttonhole Row (right side): [K1, p1] twice, bind off next 2 stitches, *work 2 (2 1/4, 2 1/2) inches in 1 x 1 rib as established, bind off 2 stitches, repeat from * 5 more times, work in 1 x 1 rib as established to end of row.
Next Row: *Work in 1 x 1 rib as established to bound-off stitches, cable cast on 2 stitches, repeat from * 5 more times, work in 1 x 1 rib as established to end of row.
Continue to work in 1 x 1 rib as established until front bands measure 1 1/2 inches, incorporating the cable cast-on stitches into the 1 x 1 rib pattern.
Finish
Use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the underarm seams together.
Sew on six ¾-inch buttons across from the buttonholes.
Weave in your ends and gently block your new cardigan!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
gorgeous! love seeing this revived! It might be time for me to (finally!) knit it.
And my already long To Knit list just got longer. Darn you. 🙂 Beautiful sweater! I can't wait to cast on!
I was one of those early readers. I've long kept this cardigan in my mental queue, and now that I see the update I'm pretty sure I'll need to cast on for it right away! Thank you!
Hello! I have a question about another pattern… Quite awhile ago I saved the link to your Dragon Scale Mitts pattern with the intention of coming back to it. But the page that opens now says the project is no longer available. Is there any way for me to get my hands (and needles!) on this older pattern? Thanks for your help!
Beautiful Sweater! I would love to make it but the link to the pattern is not hyperlinked.
Hi Stephanie-
The full free pattern is available above your comment on this page.
Please let us know if you're having problems seeing it for some reason.
Thank you!
Molly
Hi Paulette-
Yes, that pattern is available here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/dragon-scale-mitts
Many of our older patterns are available on Ravelry! Thanks so much for getting in touch!
Molly
glad to here that you made corrections. makes life so much easier for those that need to focus closely on knitting directions. this sweater looks like it lends itself well to lots of color options. i am going to have to go check it out on ravelry.
what a gorgeous update, especially in the two shades of ivory. very elegant. and the updated collar lends a more feminine finish to this beautiful design. well done.
I am pretty sure that I have found a mistake in the pattern. The numbers do not add up for the medium and large sizes at the join the sleeves section. Instead of each size being 20 sts larger my math says that they should be only 16 sts larger. After this point only the small size matches the numbers on the pattern.
Sorry to point that out.
Always on the lookout for a great cardigan! Could I substitute Blue Sky Worsted Hand Dyed for both the Kosmos and the Maxima? Thanks!
Erica! Thank You!
You are right.
Under SLEEVE: Shape Sleeve the numbers should be (and are now) 44 (48, 52) sts, NOT 44 (46, 48) sts.
Under BODY: Join Sleeves to Body the numbers should be (and are now) 44 (48, 52) sts, NOT 44 (46, 48) sts.
Luckily this error was isolated (not that any error is ok!). The numbers that follow, below in the pattern are all still correct.
We cannot thank you enough for taking the time to let us know your findings. I hope this means you're making the sweater?!? Let us know how it goes!
Thanks,
Laura
Love this cardi. It's going on my project que which seems to grow every time I read your blog/website
Thanks for the inspiration
Ha! I was one of those early people.When I encountered a numbers issue, I called the store to ask about the errors. The person I spoke with helped me iron things out over the phone and I'm grateful because I LOVE that sweater. It's one of my first, and a favorite go-to when it gets chilly. Glad to see it lives on.
Hi Vicki.
Blue Sky Worsted Hand Dyes are beautiful. It is a thicker worsted weight yarn though. Kozmos is a thinner worsted; the mohair in it is what fills it out. The Maxima is also a bit thinner than the Blue Sky Worsted Hand Dyes. Long story short, you could use the Worsted Hand Dyes, but it will be a dense fabric at 4 stitches to the inch and a very heavy fabric comparatively.
Hope this helps.
Laura
I would appreciated it if you continued to size up this beautiful sweater to at least a 50 inch bust.
Hi Lynda-
We don't have plans to add sizes to this sweater at the moment. Unfortunately scaling a pattern up or down requires technical expertise that we can't always provide in our free patterns. But thank you so much for getting in touch and letting us know what size would work for you. We will keep it in mind as we go forward.
Thanks!
Molly
I'm sure I'm missing something but when I got to the end of the first sleeve, I followed the directions and knit around with CC then knit four beyond the marker and placed the previous 8 on holder. But do I keep the other 48 stitches live as well and put on another holder or piece of scrap yarn?
Thank you for this lovely pattern, I made it in handspun alpaca (just one colour) and it looks great. It was so easy to knit the body on the long circular needle and the sleeves in the round, no seams to deal with. I'm sure this is a pattern to use again and again!
I am a little confused about the following direction (under STRIPE AND RIB PATTERN) :
"Row 3: On the wrong side of the work, using CC, [p1, k1] 3 times, purl to last 6 stitches, [k1, p1] 3 times; do not turn. Slide the stitches back to the right-hand end of the needle, ready to purl again."
How do you slide the stitches BACK to the right-hand end of the needle when you always knit from left to right/ with right hand? Sorry I'm new to knitting cardigans with circular needles. Thanks !
Hi Michelle,
Good question! When you have finished working a row and you hold up the piece with the side you just worked facing you, the stitches tend to be bunched on the left end of the needle. So, keeping the piece oriented this way, you slide the stitches to the right end of the needle, then bring the left needle around the back of the work so that it is now the right needle, ready to work the first stitch.
Does that make sense? If not, let us know! And thanks for asking!
Whitney
I am a brand new knitter; just completed my first project: a beanie. Turned out well. I'm about to start another project this evening but THIS is definitely going to be on my to-do list. If I saw this in a store, I'd buy it — better yet, now I can make it. Thanks!!
Are the yardage requirements correct? Three skins of each color? The Kosmos has only 119yd per skein while the Maxima has 219yds. If doing one row stripes shouldn't the required yardage be near equal? I I look forward to making this.
Hi Kim-
The yardage is correct. The cuffs and collar bands are done just using the Main Color so you end up using more of that than the Contrast Color.
Thanks!
Molly
I'm wondering if you have a variation for knitting the sleeves on straight needles and joining with a seam. My work on double-pointed needles is quite sloppy-looking.
Thanks!
Hi Amy,
We haven't written out the pattern for flat knitting, but you can pretty easily extrapolate from the in-the-round directions, just make sure you knit one row and purl the next (instead of knitting every round) in order to get stockinette stitch.
Another (maybe easier) alternative would be to use 12-inch circular needles instead of double pointed needles! You can find them here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8-Skacel-Addi-Turbo-Circular-Needles
Thanks for your question and good luck!
Whitney
I was wondering what you would suggest as an alternative yarn to the Kozmos? It is very expensive and I would love to make this sweater for my mom as a thank you for homeschooling me all these years, but I don't have that much money. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
Hi Reid,
Sure! You may want to check out Blue Sky's Brushed Suri, which similarly play with textural differences: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/1809-Blue-Sky-Brushed-Suri . Another thought would be to add a strand Alchemy's Haiku (https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/1025-Alchemy-Haiku ) to an inexpenisve light worsted weight yarn, like Cascade 220 (https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/649-Cascade-Yarns-Cascade-220 ). A final thought would be to use Purl Soho's Alpaca Pure, which would be a more subtle shift in textures, but still very beautiful! It's right here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9307-Purl-Soho-Alpaca-Pure
I hope this gets you going, and please let us know if you have any other questions! You have such a lovely idea. Most moms don't get thanked enough!!
Whitney
Hi Whitney, your reply to Reid about alternative yarn and the links you provided for Alpaca Pure and a Blue Sky yarn both come up with no such yarn found. Are there any other alternatives other than mixing strands to achythe original yarn in the pattern?
Thanks much.
Hi Barbara,
Both of the yarns Whitney recommended have sadly been discontinued since she wrote that comment! Instead, I’d recommend using two other worsted weight yarns as substitutes. One of the main features of this design is the contrast of textures between the two yarns, so some combinations I’d recommend are: Plenty + Partridge, Campo + Partridge, or any of the above + Hedgerow. Alternatively, if you want to mimic the mohair texture of one of the original yarns, I’d recommend using one of the worsted weight yarns I’ve already suggested along with a DK weight yarn held together with Tussock. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
I have the same question Betsy has, but no one answered 😉
Hi Nara (and Betsy!),
I just edited the pattern to clarify that step for you (and everyone else who might wonder)! Yes, you do keep the first sleeve's stitches live and on hold. You put them on hold so you'll have the double pointed needles available to make the next sleeve. If you happen to have two sets of double pointed needles in the size you're using, you can simply set the first sleeve aside and make the other with your second set of dpn's.
Thanks for asking (and for making us finally answer Betsy; sorry, Betsy!) and please let us know if you have any more question!
Whitney
I am enjoying knitting the Treeline Striped Cardi for my daughter in the small size. I am using the original pattern and updated one, however the updated one states under the heading ‘Shape Neck Edge and Raglan’ Row 1 (wrong side) but if you follow from ‘Shape Raglan’ where Row 1 is (right side) and you then do 13 more rows then the next row should be (right side). … So I am confused?
Should I just do an extra row before before the neck edge shaping?
Would appreciate you advice.
Hi Margaret,
For the Shape Raglan section, Rows 1 and 2 are right side rows and Rows 3 and 4 are wrong side rows, so if you finish that section with working Rows 1 and 2 one more time, you’re all set to go on the wrong side for Row 1 of the Shape Neck Edge and Raglan section. Maybe you didn’t see the end instruction in the Shape Raglan section that says to repeat Rows 1 and 2?
Please let us know if you’re still stuck and thank you so much for asking!
Whitney
Thank you for your patterns,I enjoy to do them.
I am also stuck with “shape neck edge and raglan.I don’t make stripe.So for me Row 1 is wrong side,row 2 should be right side and 3 wrong side,so I am thinking of doing my decrease the same way than row 1 all along.Am I going to get trouble?
If so could you tell me quickly I am doing the sweater for my daughter birthday.Sorry for my English,I am French.
Hello Noisette,
Thank you for your question! Since you aren’t doing stripes, the instructions for you will be a little different. I wouldn’t stick to the decreases just in Row 1, because it will yield a different look. I would simply add another row of stockinette in between the decrease rows (Row 1 and 3). So technically Row 3 will become Row 4.
Let us know if you have any more questions! Happy Knitting!
Alyson
Just starting. About to cast on sleeve, large size. If I cast on 40 st. , at 4 at. An inch, The cuff will be 10″. However the diagram states the cuff should be 7.5″, not 10″.
Help, please.
Hi Ellentine-
The 4 stitches per inch gauge is in stockinette stitch, not in ribbing. The ribbing that you do on the cuffs will have a significantly denser gauge thatn 4 stitches per inch so it should come out fine.
Please let us know if have any more questions and thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
Is there a pdf version of this pattern? If so, where do I get it? I saw the link to the old one, but don’t see one for the new. Thanks.
Hi Nancy-
This pattern isn’t available as a PDF. We are working on making our site easier to print and save from but in the meantime we recommend using printfriendly.com. Thank you!
Best-
Molly
I’d like to make this sweater without stripes. Can I just work back and forth? I’m thinking this will be ok, but I just need reassurance because I usually follow patterns to a tee! Thanks.
Hi Meg-
Yes, you can just knit it back and forth with one color with no problems. Thanks!
Molly
I’m making this sweater for my daughter, using Cascade 220 Superwash Aran 817 (natural), 100 g / 50 yds as MC, and Peruvian Tweed Alpaca 127 (undyed), 8 oz / ~ 600 yds.as CC.
I’m not sure if I understood the 4 row Stripe & Rib pattern regarding sliding the stitches, so here’s what I came up with:
Use 2 #9 circular needles.
Row 1: follow instructions using 1st #9 circular needle
Row 2: follow instructions using 2nd needle
Row 3: follow instructions on 1st needle
Row 4: follow instructions on 2nd needle
I’m also knitting the last stitch on the purl rows to eliminate curling.
Both are working beautifully.
A couple of other things:
Yarn choices: in the skeins, the colors looked different enough for them to work, but now that I’m knitting them up, they’re more similar to each other than different. This is giving a more subtle texture than is shown in the photo. The feel is wonderful.
I cast on using a 10.5 needle, which is giving a very nice beginning to the ribbing.
Hi any chance of a printable version as I get the old screen headache after a while. Am happy to pay for it if it is available somewhere?
Absolutely, Emma!
If you simply click on the PRINT button on the top right hand corner just under the banner of photos, you will be able to print a copy with our without pictures. You’ll even have the option to save the PDF version of the pattern as well!
Hope this helps! Happy knitting! -Alyson
Why do you make it so hard to do this pattern? Just exactly how much yarn do I need for the main color and the contrasting color? I looked up Manos Del Uruguay’s Maxima, 100% Extrafine Merino Wool and it seems to come in 50g and 100g skeins. So, I need 4 skeins of which one???
Hello Bridgett,
Thank you for your question. The Manos Maxima used in this pattern is the 100g skein which can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/maxima.html. You will need 400g or 4 skeins of that yarn for this pattern. I hope that helps. Please let us know if you have any other questions.
Happy knitting,
Allison
I absolutely love this sweater…this sweater is timeless….like music, the eloquence of knitting permeates the generations…I can see my 18th century ancestors in Europe wearing this….and my grandmothers past; new to this New Promised Land, America, wearing this….and my granddaughters generations from now…..this lovely sweater epitomizes what the art of knitting means to me; and I can’t wait to knit this….thank-you for posting this pattern…
Hi Mari,
Thank you so much for your lovely comment! We so appreciate when knitters respond to our patterns! Please do let us know how it turns out!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hello!
I would like to use a different yarn and have 950 yards to knit a small, would this be enough?
Best,
Christina
Hi Christina,
Thanks for reaching out. 950 yards should be enough, but do knit a gauge swatch to make sure you can match gauge.
Kindly,
Anna
I have a lot of the Purl Soho Mulberry Merino. What size needle would you suggest when making a swatch to get the correct gauge? Thanks!
Hi Katrina,
Thanks for writing in! Every knitter knits differently so there is no definite answer. Mulberry Merino is a sport weight yarn while the recommended yarn for this pattern is considered a worsted weight. It’s going to be difficult to get gauge for this project without the finished drape of this fabric changing drastically!
Best,
Carly
Beautiful sweater! But where are the larger sizes? It needs to go to at least a 2X size.
Thanks
Hi Elizabeth,
We are very sorry that our patterns aren’t currently in your size range. We really do appreciate that bodies come in all shapes and sizes and share your concern that patterns be as inclusive as possible. As a small company, we haven’t yet had the resources to offer the scope of sizes we would like to, but as our company grows, we have been steadily expanding that range and plan to continue to do so!
Please be on the lookout, and thank you so much for adding your voice to this issue. We take your feedback very seriously!
Best,
Julianna
I would love to make this sweater but I would need to use a different yarn. What do you suggest? I want a soft warm wool. No mohair. I am a beginner, I have only knit blankets and hats.
Hi Linda,
Great question! I would suggest using Manos Maxima for both yarns! This is a lovely and soft yarn that was one of the first yarns that I worked well over 20 years ago and it is still one of may favorite yarns! For the second color you would need 2 skeins for any of the three sizes!
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi. Thank you for sharing beautiful cardigan pattern. I finished body part and was ready to start york.
Then I got confused after reading join sleeves to body part. Do I need to have two sleeves already done before starting york? so the work order is knit two sleeves – body york join sleeves to body shape reglan…. like written above?
Hi and thanks for reaching out! Yes, for this pattern, you will need to knit both sleeves before joining them to the body to knit the yoke. You may find our Joining Sleeves to Body tutorial helpful for this step!
Best,
Julianna
I have finished this cardigan. It is really beautiful and elegant.
I especially like shawl collar and raglan shoulder.
Thanks again for the beautiful pattern.
Love the sweater but just wanted to use one colour. Can I just follow the pattern and ignore the instructions for the CC
Hi Dianne,
Thank you for reaching out! You can certainly knit this sweater in a single color with a few simple adjustments. First you’ll want to make sure you have enough yarn for the whole sweater in a solid color: for sizes 34 ½ (38 ½, 42 ½) you’ll need 5 (5, 7) skeins of Maxima respectively. After that it’s fairly easy; any time the pattern prompts you to switch to your CC simply continue with your MC. We would love to see how it goes!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
Hi, I’m an overseas knitter who is looking at your offer of $12 postage and wondering whether to buy some wool from your site. Do you have any wool at the moment that would work well with this pattern?
Hi Shaanti,
Thanks for writing in! We still carry Maxima, one of the original yarns used for this cardigan! I would recommend using either Flax Down or Understory for the contrast color.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I am interested in knitting this sweater using just one color of Zageo 6-ply cashmere. Will this work, and if so, please recommend how many yards of yarn I would need. I think I may want to do the largest size , which doesn’t appear to be very large.
Hi Tricia,
Thanks for reaching out! I think using a single strand of Jade Sapphire Zageo 6-ply should work! I would recommend working a gauge swatch to insure that you are consistent with the pattern or if you will need to adjust the gauge at all! For the larger size we used approximately 876 yards so I would suggest buying 6 skeins of the Zageo!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
I m confused when you say
On the right side of the work, using CC, [k1, p1] 3 times (edge stitches, keep in rib pattern), knit to last 6 stitches, [p1, k1] 3 times (edge stitches, keep in rib pattern); do not turn. Slide the stitches back to the right-hand end of the needle, ready to work across the right side again.
I get confused when you say at the end where it says do not turn. Slide the stitches back to the right-hand end of the needle, ready to work across the right side again. How do you do this at the end?
Hi Muriel,
Thanks for reaching out! Since you are working with two yarns to create the stripping, once you come to the end of the row with one yarn, you will slide the stitches back to the right-hand end of the needle because the other yarn should be waiting there for you, from there you will be ready to knit and continue on to the next row with the new yarn!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
As part of your effort to make this pattern more comprehensible, how about providing a pattern in PDF format so that it prints out in fewer than 16 pages. Pictures can be smaller and spaced at the beginning of the instructions (Use “through” setting) when placing pictures so they can be moved about then locked into place. This would go a long way to facilitating pattern use.
Thanks.
Hi Lorraine,
Thanks for reaching out about this! I wanted to let you know how you can download a printer-friendly PDF of any of our free pattern pages: If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, click on the “PDF” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window. Once your PDF has finished downloading, just click the “Download PDF” button, and it will be saved to your computer! (You can also click the “Print” button if you’d like to print the pattern.)
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
This cardigan also works well with a single color yarn (sport weight or heavier) and on larger needles, for larger than your largest size. I am 75 and learned to knit when I was 12. An experienced knitter should be able to make the translation, but those who are new to knitting might need some help.
Hi Lorraine,
That’s a great point! We encourage anyone who needs some help making modifications to our patterns to reach out to us either here, or by sending an email to [email protected]. We’re always happy to give advice!
All the best,
Lili