Sashiko
Sashiko embroidery is one of my favorite crafts. It’s easy to master and the process is very meditative and relaxing. Although the patterns can look difficult, they are just a matter of breaking down the whole into linear parts. –Mari
The Materials
There are four key materials to sashiko – needle, thread, thimble and fabric. As you’ll see, no embroidery hoop is necessary, which makes sashiko a very portable craft.
Needles
- left – traditional sashiko needle
- middle – modern sashiko needle
- right – 1mm embroidery needle
Traditional sashiko needles are very long (about 2 inches) with a small eye. The width of the needle is uniform all the way to the top. Modern sashiko needles have a larger eye so the needle can be more easily threaded. In the photo, I included the largest embroidery needle in my collection, a 1mm width needle to show the difference between the needles. As you’ll see below, a long needle is necessary to the sashiko embroidery technique.
Thread
- left – sashiko thread
- middle – embroidery floss
- right – Pearl Cotton Embroidery Thread
Sashiko thread is more twisted than embroidery floss and not made to be separated into strands. Sashiko thread doesn’t have a sheen as embroidery floss or the Valdani embroidery thread have. Either thread could be used a substitute for sashiko thread but the look will be slightly different.
Thimble
This is a traditional sashiko thimble that is used to push the needle through the cloth.
Fabric
The ideal fabric for sashiko embroidery is one that is not too tightly woven, such as Robert Kaufman’s Essex fabric, which is a linen/cotton blend. Because sashiko thread is so thick, a fabric that is too tightly woven will show puckering or the holes quite easily.
The Technique
To begin your project, cut a piece a thread that will be long enough to go from one end of the section you are working on to the other end. Create a quilter’s knot by wrapping the thread around the needle twice and pulling it through.
Next, take your fabric and insert the needle through the fabric without pulling the thread through. The proportion of the sashiko stitch is about 3:2, with the longer stitch on the right side of the fabric. Continue running the needle through the fabric without pulling the thread through until you have multiple stitches on the needle.
After you have several stitches on the needle, whatever number you are comfortable with, push the needle through the fabric and pull the thread all the way through. Use the sashiko thimble to push the needle through the fabric.
Pull the fabric taut to ensure there is no puckering. Continue until you have reached the end of the row and tie another quilter’s knot, leaving some slack at the end to compensate for any puckering.
If you are doing a pattern with any change in direction or angles, leave a little loop at each point on the wrong side of the fabric, again for puckering.
“Water Surface” Kit
The sashiko patterns we have all have easy to follow instructions which have the stitches printed on the fabric in washable ink. I chose the traditional sashiko kit “water surface” to show how to do a pattern from beginning to end. I paired the kit with the Cobalt Blue Sashiko Thread (#10). The fabric has a second side that could be used to cover up the wrong side of the embroidery in a pillow or handkerchief.
Before beginning the embroidery, decide how to do the pattern. Typically, the horizontal and vertical lines are done first (except for the outside lines). Next, the diagonal lines are stitched. Finally the remaining shapes are embroidered. Since this pattern does not have any horizontal or vertical lines, start with the diagonal lines, from one end to the other.
When the first line is finished, start with the next line, but start in the opposite direction to avoid any puckering or skewing of the fabric. Make sure you have enough thread on the needle to get from one end of the pattern to the other, to avoid having any knots in the middle of the fabric.
After completing all of the diagonal lines, the figures remaining create a diamond pattern. To do this part of the pattern, start at the top, then follow the arrows around the pattern back to the top.
This is how the diamond pattern looks when completed. Work your way from one side of the fabric to the other, just as you did the diagonal lines. Finally, embroider the outside lines. The ink of the pattern will come out easily in a cold water hand wash with a little agitation. Your sashiko sample is complete!
Thank you for the tutorial! Would you mind if I post a link to it on my blog? newinnippon.blogspot.com.
Respectfully,
SJarry
Hi SJarry-
Yes you may, as long as you link any photos directly back to us for the instruction and patterns.
Thanks for asking!
Should the stitches of Sashiko be the same size on the front and the back of the piece? My stitches in the back are much smaller than the front. Thanks for your help
jleibfried@aol.com
Hi Jacque-
The back stitches are usually a bit smaller than the front stitches, but as you get more practice they might even out a bit.
Thank you for your question.
Molly
Thank you for this wonderful tutorial… my first lesson in Sashiko Embroidery.
I love this technique for quilting!
This post was really helpful, thanks! I plan to start my first sashiko project tonight and now have a better idea of what I'm trying to do!
Did I read somewhere that you could sew this on a sewing machine?
Please reply to my e-mail so that I don't miss the posting for the response.
Thank you so much,
Jeanettte
Yes. You can do this on a sewing machine with invisible thread on the top and coloured thread in the bottom. There is a special stitch on modern machines and a little experimenting with tension
Hi Jeanette-
You cannot do this stitch on a sewing machine. But it is fun and easy to do by hand.
Thank you!
Molly
Wonderfully clear pictures and descriptions. Thank you. Someone gave me a piece of what I now realise is a kit. However, the only thread I have to hand is DMC stranded cotton. Will this work and how many strands should I use?
Hi Carrie-
Yes, you can use the DMC embroidery floss. You can use all 6 strands. Please see the section of this story called "Thread" for more info.
Thank you!
Molly
Jeanette, Babylock company makes a Sashiko sewing machine.. The reviews I read indicate that the Sashiko II version is better. This is a single purpose machine which costs several thousand dollars.
Babylock does make a single purpose Sashiko II machine that has adjustable stitch length and stitch distance. I have one and love it. Using a pre-printed pattern would be great so the adjustments could be made to fit the printed stitches. I paid less than $2,000 for a new model at my local Babylock dealer in town. I'm glad I stumbled upon this website so I can look at getting the pre-printed patterns!
that's a great explanation! Thank you so much for explaining the difference between the needles.
What is the best way to tie off the sashiko thread. I couldn't find it in your tutorial. Apologies if I missed it,
Thank you
Hi Susan-
You can finish it in one of 2 ways. Once you're towards the end of your length of thread you can weave the tail through the back of some of the stitches and then snip it without tying a knot. Or you can tie a french knot at the end if you want to make sure it's ultra secure. Here's a short explanation of a French Knot: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/embroidery-tutorials/2007/7/20/french-knot.html
Thanks for your question!
Molly
Great tutorial, do you need to stabilize the fabric before you start stitching, is so , what do you recommend? Thanks Vicki
I bought my first sashiko kit to sew a pre-printed pattern to make a table-mat. There's a fold in the fabric and I'm wondering if I should be embroidering through just 1 layer or through both fabric layers?
Hi Lian-
It should be just through one layer of fabric.
Thank you!
Molly
HI Vicki-
No need to use stabilizer, just follow the instructions as given above and you should be in business!
Thanks!
Molly
Excelente tutorías, si tienes otro(s) sobre cualquier manualidades japonesa, por favor envíemela a mi correo. dios te bendiga
Excelente tutoras, si tienes otro(s) sobre cualquier manualidades japonesa, por favor envemela a mi correo. dios te bendiga
buenas noches gracias por compartir esta tcnica que me encanta yo lo voy hacer en lino panam gracias y saludos de mexico city.
That for you Beautiful tutorial.
I made a small practice pattern and stitches were 1/16th to 1/8th long. look good. but wonder what is the official stitch length ?
Hi Jody-
If there is an official stitch length I’m not aware of it. The most important thing is to get them even.
I hope this helps and thanks so much for getting in touch!
Best-
Molly
lovely, thanks
Thank you! This is most helpful!!
Thank you
What would be the best way to go about using a sashiko pattern on a quilt? Would it be a bad idea to stitch through the batting and bottom layer as well or just the top layer?
Hi Barclay-
You can stitch through all three layers (top, batting, and backing)! It sounds like a beautiful project!
Thanks you!
Molly
Perfect! I’ve been wanting to try out hand quilting. Do you have any suggestions for making a pattern and transferring that will be large enough for a quilt? I’m a little stumped on how to get the lines so nice without a pre-printed pattern
Hey Barclay,
Thank you for the comment! If you are doing a simple design you draw it free hand right onto the quilt with a fabric marker. You can browse all of those options on our website here;
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/16-sewing-patchwork-notions-tools?filters%5B%5D=892
I hope this helps and feel free to respond if you need anymore suggestions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
I’ve used two layers, usually cotton, with the cotton batting between, it’s not too thick, and quilts easily with Sashiko stitching. It’s one of my favorite ways to make a lap quilt.
I am excited to try this, and glad to see you have all the materials in one place. If I do this kind of stitching on a quilt square, will it hold up to being washed a couple times a year? Thanks for a very clear and helpful tutorial.
Hey Alix,
Thank you for the comment! I actually have not tried quilting with the Sashiko squares before! My general rule for sewing patchwork projects is to pre-washing all fabrics before stitching on them. However with the Sashiko squares the printed design will wash off when wet. Therefore I would recommend doing all your stitching before you wash the squares. Then I would gently hand-wash the squares before sewing them together to create the quilt top and to ensure you don’t have any extra shrinkage. It also might be a good idea to try using the Sashiko thread on a piece of scrap fabric that is a similar weight to the fabric your ultimately using for the quilt to see how it will react!
I hope this helps and I’d love to hear how this turns out!
Good Luck!
Jake
Thanks for sharing this useful post. It is very helpful.
Should I be using a hoop to keep the fabric stable? I can wait to get started.
Hi Barbara,
Thank you for the comment! Traditionally this technique does not use a hoop however you are more than welcome to try it. It might actually be a little more difficult with a hoop since it is done with a running stitching!
I hope this helps and feel free to write back if you have anymore questions!
Happy Crafting!
Jake
This is such a beautiful simple embroidery method. I just keep asking myself why I have never tried it. No matter though, I am going to create a pattern of my own from some special books I have and create a project. Thank you for including this in (I can not remember which link I clicked on that led me here….hee, heee, heeee..) your post tutorial link. I am totally committed to your site and this wonderful new (to me) technique! Thank you for sharing and inspiring me to engage in learning more embroidery techniques and projects! Have a wonderful day!
Does the sashiko stitch only look good on solid fabrics? I made a patchwork quilt out of off white solid fabrics and printed fabrics — will sashiko work for that too?
Hello Linn,
Sashiko, while being decorative and beautiful, is also intended as a hand-quilting technique. The stitches will be most visible on a solid background, but still absolutely functional and applicable for printed fabrics.
Happy stitching! -Alyson
what is the black sashiko palm thimble made of
Hi Diane-
It’s made of leather and you can find it here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/3745
Thanks so much for getting in touch and please let us know if you have any more questions!
Molly
I have read the following instructions for sashiko stitching on a regular machine:
12 wt. cotton thread on top
medium weight such as 40wt in bobbin
use light color bobbin for light fabric or dark color bobbin for dark fabric
116 topstitching needle for machine sewing
Hello! I just ordered some of your supplies for a Sashiko sampler. As I look over the tutorial you say to do the diagonal lines first. When you finish one line do you carry the thread across the back or do you start a new length of thread? Does that question make sense? I want to make sure I do it right so I don’t run out of thread but also have it look nice. Thank you!
Hello Olivia!
If you are planning to frame your sampler or hide the back of the work in some way, I would say don’t worry about carrying the thread across the back of the work. If you are making large floats of thread on the back of the work, I would make sure to get an extra skein of thread. If you want to make use of what you’ve already purchased, I would be more frugal with the floats in the back of the work and only use that technique for lines that are worked closely on the pattern.
I hope this helps and happy stitching! -Alyson
Can these gorgeous patterns be used for small placemats? Perhaps using felt as the wadding? They are truly beautiful!!
Hello, Jane!
Thank you for writing in! These patterns are all 13″x13″, so they could definatly be used as small placemats. You can use felt as the wadding, but only if you are going to be handwashing and drying the placemats. If you are going to be machine washing them, then I recommend using a thin cotton batting because the cotton batting will shrink in a similar fashion to the cotton fabric. Wool felt tends to shrink a bit more than cotton when aggitated so felt wadding might distort your beautiful stitches a little. I hope this helps! If you have further questions, please let us know!
Happy crafting!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
New technique to try out Does it also work on Tricot?
I was thinking on the front of a T-shirt
Tku vm for sharing
Hello, Lelia!
Thank you for writing in! Yes, you can use sashiko stitching on tricot fabric! Please let us know if you have further questions!
Best,
Kumeko
I was given a kit consisting of a piece of fabric, 3 long needles, some thick thread and a thimble like you displayed from a friend. My only problem was no pattern could you tell me how to proceed to get a pattern on the royal blue fabric
Hello Dawn,
Thanks for writing in! I do believe that you have the tools to do a Sashiko pattern and you can find Sashiko patterns on cotton here. If you’d like to do a Sashiko pattern on your royal blue fabric, you can use a chalk pencil to draw a pattern directly on to your fabric. However, it is just easier to buy the pre-marked fabric. Good luck on your project!
Best,
Adam
Thank you very helpful
Mil gracias por este tutorial, hace unos días por pinteres supe de esta técnica y con su guia voy a iniciar mi primer proyecto
Hi! I bought a ‘one stitch’ (35cm x 35cm) dish cloth. I’m very new at this. How do I finish off and make good at the end of the row so my work doesn’t look ‘daggy’ pls?
Many thanks
Glenys
Hi Glenys,
Thanks for writing in! The only way you can end a row is by knotting the thread close to the wrong side of the fabric. You’ll want to do this on an edge and then finish that edge with a rolled hem to conceal the knot. Let me know how it goes!
-Adam
I am a designer and online ship featuring southwest-inspired sashiko. May I include your JANUARY 19, 2008 sashiko blog on my site?
http://www.sashikosouthwest.com
Hello, Joyce!
Thank you so much for thinking of us! You may include our post on your site, we just ask that you clearly state that the post is from our site and that you give the direct link to the blog post. Again, thank you!
Best,
Kumeko
Thanks you so much for all the work you have shared with us, I really appreciate all your efforts I have followed you becuase I think that your work is the greatest I have ever seen before.
I was wondering if you had either iron-on Sashiko patterns or Sashiko patterns available printed on Robert Kaufman’s Essex Fabric? I love the color of this fabric and prefer it to the brighter white fabrics I found in your shop. I also had trouble finding the Cobalt Blue Indigo Sashiko Thread (#10). Do you still have this color available.
Thank you!!
-Kyla
Hi Klya,
Thank you for writing in! We do not carry iron-on Sashiko patterns and we only carry the pre-printed patterns on white and navy cotton fabric. You could copy a Sashiko pattern onto other fabric using an iron on transfer pen. IN that way, you could use a brighter fabric!
We do currently have the Cobalt Blue Indigo Sashiko thread in stock. It can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/sashiko-thread-20-meters.html
Best,
Cassy
When you sashiko what batting if any to you use or prefer?
Hi Charleah,
Thanks for writing in! For our Reversible Sashiko Placemats, we used a mid loft batting. I would suggest using a mid loft or lighter as they will be easier to hand sew through!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
What is the best way to remove the inked pattern after completing all stitching? The white inked pattern is flaky and it’s on Indigo cotton with a batting backing to give dimension.
Hi Deborah,
Thanks for writing in! Once you are finished stitching your Sashiko sampler, washing the completed piece per the directions included with the sampler will remove the pre-printed design!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thank you for a great explanation. I was looking online for a similar idea and really appreciate it
Do you use a double or single thread stitch. I have seen tutorials for single as the stitches are easily undone if you make a mistake. What is the correct way?
Thank you so very much
Lynda
Hi Lynda,
Thanks for writing in! Sashiko is traditionally done with a single thread. As Sashiko thread is a nice round thread, the single strand creates the lovely patterns and textural feel that you see here!
Best,
Cassy
Thank you! Your little tutorial answered all of my questions. What a practical and easy tutorial it is.
I have bought all the tools needed and I’m sitting here trying to thread the longest needle (which has a very small eye)! Is there a trick to getting these thicker sashiko threads thru small eyes?!
Thank you! Michelle
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest trying a needle threader – our Clover Double Needle Threader is designed to be used with both large and small eye needles, so it should do the trick!
Best of luck and happy stitching!
Julianna
Try using a thin (strong) thread looped thru the eye then put the thicker thread thru the loop and pull the thicker thread back thru the eye – the thin thread works like the old fashioned wired needle threaders.
Thank you so much for your clear instructions. I have already completed my first piece but appreciate the information on directions. I also love the idea of starting lines from different directions to avoid puckering! Would not have thought of that myself!
Wendy
So I recently finished one of these kits and I was slightly confused on how to turn it into a kitchen towel/cloth. I cut on the dotted line after completing the stitching (thru one side) and sewed the two pieces together right sides in and then turning the piece right side out. Is this the best method or did I miss something in the instructions? They were in Japanese but the photos seemed pretty self explanatory.
Hi and thanks for writing in! You actually have quite a few options for how to finish or use your finished sashiko sampler. For a tea towel, you could simply hem the edges of the embroidered square, but using the extra fabric as a backing is a great idea! You can also use the blank piece of fabric to create a pillow, or sew several samplers together into a quilt top.
Best,
Julianna
Je trouve ces broderies magnifiques et je pense en faire très prochainement. Il ne me reste plus qu’à me procurer les outils indispensables à leurs réalisations.
Hello!
I’m new to Sashiko and am really interested in starting it. I was wondering…when you finish your first row, do you continue using the same thread that’s on the needle? Or do you knot off the first thread and the start with a new thread? Likewise, when you’re working on the smaller details, is there a sequence to it or do you keep on just going to wherever the next stitch is closest?
Sorry for all the newbie questions but I want to make sure I do it correctly. It would be really helpful if you can explain what happens on the backside of the piece. I suppose there will be many little knots here and there?
Thanks so much!
Hi Winnie,
Great questions! There is no need to end each row with a knot. I just keep going until I run out of thread and then make a knot on the back. For Sashiko there is generally a preferred sequence for each design that is generally noted either by instructions or by a series of arrows on the pattern. This is generally designed to use as little thread as possible and make the floats on the back side as short as possible. On the backside of the work, the pattern will almost be the opposite and will differ for each pattern. For the very basic design that we used for our Reversible Sashiko Placemats, you can see both the front and back as they are both visible and lovely in this design with the knots buried on the sides.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
thank you só much for the clear explanation with photo’s.Now I dare to try the wonderful sashiko technique.
Nel.
I love sashiko, I know it looks simple however is difficult for me to master, having most of my time devoted to knitting and crochet, I do have a kit so is up to me to practise, practise, practise. Also I have Sashiko CDS for my embroidery machine. Guess technology makes one a bit lazy. Thank you for the wonderful tutorial. I live Midwest of Western Australia, Australia. Sincerely
Hi,
I’d like to purchase the kit, but don’t see it on the website. Where can I find it?
Thank you!
Hi Lori,
Thanks for reaching out! You can view all of our sashiko samplers by clicking right here!
Best,
Julianna
Hi there do you press Sashiko embroidery when the piece is finished? Regards Sonia
Hi Sonia,
Thanks for writing in! Although you can gently press your finished sashiko, it usually isn’t necessary. When you wash your sampler to remove the printed lines and then lay it flat to dry, it should turn out nice and flat and tidy!
Happy stitching!
Julianna
Can I use Sashiko embroidery on a hand knitted wool garment?
Hi Sheila,
Great question! Although I don’t think it would technically be called sashiko anymore and the stitching technique would be a little different, you can certainly use a straight stitch or running stitch to embellish a knitted item! We don’t have any tutorials for embroidering on knitted fabric, but if you search for “running stitch embroidery knitting” you should find several videos demonstrating how to do it!
Best,
Julianna
Hello I have been working with this stitch for a little while. I am a big fan of thread embroidery most all styles. I have learned to have the back look like the front. I would like to see how the back of the sashiko panel looks when finished. I really like working this stitch. Thank you Velvet
Can you work sashiko on aida.I am doing an embroidery course and have been told to do sashiko on a tea towel with a Aida insert, they don’t give any instructions leaving you to research this method. If you can use Aida what would be the best number of threads to do it over.
Hi Pauline,
Thanks for reaching out! That is a great question, I haven’t heard of anyone using an Aida insert for Sashiko in particular but I would assume that you would treat it the same way you would if you were working with more traditional embroidery. When using Sashiko thread I personally do not like to strip it like I would with embroidery floss. I find it works and looks much better using the full amount of threads!
I hope this helps and please let us know how it goes!
Warmly,
Gianna
The traditional and best way to stitch is to press the end of the needle into the plate of the thimble and push the needle through the fabric onto the needle in an up and down motion. It delivers a beautiful result. See Youtube sash.co for the best tutorials.
Hi Suzan,
Thanks for writing in! That is a great tip thank you for sharing, it is much appreciated!
Warmly,
Gianna
I have just completed the ‘water surface’ design – it is tricky at first but you soon get into the rhythm of it. I think I’m going to frame it and order another – it will look great on the wall in square white frame. So simple yet stylish. Thank you for your inspiring shop and website!
Hi Carrie,
I’m so glad to hear you’re pleased with your final product! It sounds like it will make a beautiful piece to hang!
Thanks for you lovely message, and happy crafting!
Kelsey
I am working on a pre printed sashiko design. I am finding that the design markings disappear from handling the fabric as I work. How can I retrace the piece as it did not come with a template? Thank you.
Hi Ilene,
Thanks for reaching out! Please send this information as well as a clear photo of the fabric to our customer service team at customerservice@purlsoho.com and they can troubleshoot further from there!
Warmly,
Gianna
I LKVE IN CANADA WHERE CAN I INQUIRE TO FIND KITS TO BUY SASHIKO. I LIKE GEOMETRIC DESIGNS ESPECIALLY WITH. SOME ART HISTORY TO CHAT ABOUT. WHEN ENGAGED IN THEDISCUSSION OF SASHIKO. THANK YOU. VERY INTERESTING AND CLEVER.
Hi Aria,
Thanks for reaching out. We sell sashiko supplies on our website, and we ship to Canada! You can find our offerings at this link. If you’re interested in projects as well, we have a few designs here. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
How do you make sure the edges of the patches don’t fray? Do you hem them before using them?
Hi Sabina,
Thanks for reaching out! The sashiko stitches will keep the fabric from unraveling, even if the edges fray a bit. If you want to avoid fraying altogether when you sew your patches onto another piece of fabric, I’d recommend attaching them using the turned edge applique technique, which is a great way to secure edges and attach the patch all in one step! We have a tutorial on this technique here, in case this technique is unfamiliar to you. (We use fusible interfacing as a tool to make it easier, but this is totally optional!)
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili