Climbing Rose Wrap
Mari Tobita’s stitched blossoms may line up neatly on their diamond lace trellis, but her Climbing Rose Wrap has the same abundant beauty and unruly enthusiasm as its namesake.
To make this wrap, you first knit up the center panel, a basic 2×1 rib crisscrossed by lace pathways. At each intersection, a lovely little cable blooms.
Leaving your final stitches on the needles, you’ll next pick up around the entire perimeter of the wrap, then work the ribbed border in the round.
Mari knit her Climbing Rose Wrap in our classic Good Wool. One hundred percent Andean highland wool, this yarn is delightfully squishy and soft, hearty and warm. A true joy on the needles!
With over twenty colors to choose from, Good Wool’s palette is like a rose garden in bloom. You’ll need only three skeins for a scarf or six for this wrap, so pick your shade and watch your wrap grow!
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
Designed for Purl Soho by Mari Tobita. Originally from Japan, Mari lives in New York City with her husband in an apartment full of books and yarn. She sees beauty all around her, from flowers in the garden, to the wall of a building, to the plates on a table… Inspiration is everywhere!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoClimbingRoseWrap, and #PurlSohoGoodWool. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 3 (6) skeins of Purl Soho’s Good Wool, 100% Andean highland wool yarn. Each skein of this sport weight yarn is 383 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 956 (2120) yards required. We used the color Olive Oil.
- US 7 (4.5 mm), straight or 24-inch circular needles
- US 7, 60-inch circular needles
- Removable stitch markers
- A cable stitch holder
- Stitch markers, including 1 unique
GAUGE
23 stitches and 30 rounds = 4 inches in Edge Ribbing (see Notes)
SIZES
Scarf (Wrap)
Finished Dimensions: Approximately 12¾ (28¼) inches wide x 74 inches long
NOTES
CONSTRUCTON
You will knit the main section of this project widthwise, back and forth in rows. You will then pick up stitches around the entire perimeter and knit the edging in the round.
STITCH MULTIPLE
This pattern works over a multiple of 22 stitches plus 26. For the Scarf version, you’ll work the 22 stitches of the pattern repeat only once. For the Wrap version, you’ll work the 22 stitches of the pattern repeat 5 times.
EDGE RIBBING (For Gauge Swatch)
Cast on a multiple of 22 stitches.
Round 1: *[P1, k2] 2 times, p2, [k1, p1] 2 times, k2, [p1, k1] 2 times, p2, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 for pattern.
CABLE STITCHES
NOTE: For help with these techniques, visit our Cable Tutorial.
C6F (CABLE 6 FRONT)
Slip 3 stitches onto cable stitch holder and hold in front of work, k3, then k3 from cable stitch holder.
C6B (CABLE 6 BACK)
Slip 3 stitches onto cable stitch holder and hold in back of work, k3, then k3 from cable stitch holder.
BYO (BACKWARD YARN OVER)
Bring yarn from back of work, up over top of needle to front, then between needles to back again. When you come to this stitch in the following round, work it normally to twist the stitch and close the hole.
PATTERN
Using a basic Long Tail Cast On, cast 48 (136) stitches onto 24-inch circular needles.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Work Climbing Rose Panel either from Written Instructions or Chart, both below.
NOTE: Place removable stitch markers on first and last stitches of Row 31 each time you work it. These markers will be helpful when it comes time to pick up stitches for the Edging.
CLIMBING ROSE PANEL: WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS
BEGINNING
Row 1 (right side): K2, [yarn over (yo), slip slip knit (ssk)] 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1, *k1, p1, k2, p1, [knit 2 together (k2tog), yo] 2 times, k2tog, [yo, ssk] 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, p1, k2, p1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k2. [47 (131) stitches remain]
Row 2 (wrong side): P8, k1, p2, k1, p1, *p1, k1, p2, k1, p5, purl front and back, p5, k1, p2, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, p1, k1, p2, k1, p8. [48 (136) stitches]
Row 3: K3, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k2, p1, k1, *k1, p1, k2, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k2, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k2, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, p1, k2, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k3.
Row 4: P3, k1, p7, k1, p1, *p1, k1, p7, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, p1, k1, p7, k1, p3.
Row 5: K3, p1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k1, p1, k1, *k1, p1, k1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, p1, k2, p1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, p1, k1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, p1, k3.
Row 6: Repeat Row 4.
Row 7: K3, p1, k1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, p1, k1, *k1, p1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, p1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k1, p1, k3.
Row 8: Repeat Row 4.
Row 9: K3, p1, k2, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k1, *k1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, [k2, p1] 2 times, k2, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k2, p1, k3.
Row 10: P3, k1, p2, k1, p6, *p6, [k1, p2] 3 times, k1, p6, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, p6, k1, p2, k1, p3.
Row 11: K3, p1, k2, p1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, *[k2tog, yo] 3 times, [p1, k2] 3 times, p1, [yo, ssk] 3 times repeat from * to last 13 stitches, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k3.
Row 12: Repeat Row 10.
REPEATING SECTION
Row 13: K3, p1, k2, p1, k3, *C6F (see Notes), k3, [p1, k2] 3 times, p1, k3, repeat from * to last 16 stitches, C6F, k3, p1, k2, p1, k3.
Row 14: P3, k1, p2, k1, p6, *p6, [k1, p2] 3 times, k1, p6, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, p6, k1, p2, k1, p3.
Row 15: K3, p1, k2, p1, C6B (see Notes), *C6B, [p1, k2] 3 times, p1, C6B, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, C6B, p1, k2, p1, k3.
Row 16: Repeat Row 14.
Row 17: K3, p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo, k1, *C6F, k1, yo, ssk, [p1, k2] 3 times, p1, k2tog, yo, k1, repeat from * to last 16 stitches, C6F, k1, yo, ssk, p1, k2, p1, k3.
Row 18: Repeat Row 14.
Row 19: K3, p1, k2, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k1, *k1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, [k2, p1] 2 times, k2, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k2, p1, k3.
Row 20: P3, k1, p7, k1, p1, *p1, k1, p7, k1, p2, k1, p7, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, p1, k1, p7, k1, p3.
Row 21: K3, p1, k1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, p1, k1, *k1, p1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, p1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k1, p1, k3.
Row 22: Repeat Row 20.
Row 23: K3, p1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k1, p1, k1, *k1, p1, k1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, p1, k2, p1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, p1, k1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, p1, k3.
Row 24: Repeat Row 20.
Row 25: K3, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k2, p1, k1, *k1, p1, k2, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k2, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k2, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, p1, k2, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k3.
Row 26: P8, k1, p2, k1, p1, *p1, k1, p2, k1, p12, k1, p2, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, p1, k1, p2, k1, p8.
Row 27: K2, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1, *k1, p1, k2, p1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, p1, k2, p1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k2.
Row 28: Repeat Row 26.
Row 29: K3, [k2tog, yo] 2 times, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, *k1, p1, k2, p1, k3, C6F, k3, p1, k2, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, [yo, ssk] 2 times, k3.
Row 30: Repeat Row 26.
Row 31: K2, C6B, p1, k2, p1, k1, *k1, p1, k2, p1, [C6B] 2 times, p1, k2, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, p1, k2, p1, C6B, k2.
NOTE: Place removable stitch markers on first and last stitch of previous row. They will be helpful when it comes time to pick up stitches for the Edging.
Row 32: Repeat Row 26.
Row 33: K2, [yo, ssk] 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1, *k1, p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo, k1, C6F, k1, yo, ssk, p1, k2, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, p1, k2, p1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k2.
Row 34: Repeat Row 26.
Row 35: K3, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k2, p1, k1, *k1, p1, k2, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k2, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k2, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, p1, k2, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k3.
Row 36: Repeat Row 20.
Row 37: K3, p1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k1, p1, k1, *k1, p1, k1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, p1, k2, p1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, p1, k1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, p1, k3.
Row 38: Repeat Row 20.
Row 39: K3, p1, k1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, p1, k1, *k1, p1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, p1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k1, p1, k3.
Row 40: Repeat Row 20.
Row 41: K3, p1, k2, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k1, *k1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, [k2, p1] 2 times, k2, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k2, p1, k3.
Row 42: Repeat Row 14.
Row 43: K3, p1, k2, p1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, *[k2tog, yo] 3 times, [p1, k2] 3 times, p1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k3.
Row 44: Repeat Row 14.
Repeat Rows 13–44 fifteen more times.
ENDING
Row 45: K3, p1, k2, p1, k3, *C6F, k3, [p1, k2] 3 times, p1, k3, repeat from * to last 16 stitches, C6F, k3, p1, k2, p1, k3.
Row 46: P3, k1, p2, k1, p6, *p6, [k1, p2] 3 times, k1, p6, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, p6, k1, p2, k1, p3.
Row 47: K3, p1, k2, p1, C6B, *C6B, [p1, k2] 3 times, p1, C6B, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, C6B, p1, k2, p1, k3.
Row 48: Repeat Row 46.
Row 49: K3, p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo, k1, *C6F, k1, yo, ssk, [p1, k2] 3 times, p1, k2tog, yo, k1, repeat from * to last 16 stitches, C6F, k1, yo, ssk, p1, k2, p1, k3.
Row 50: Repeat Row 46.
Row 51: K3, p1, k2, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k1, *k1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, [k2, p1] 2 times, k2, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k2, p1, k3.
Row 52: P3, k1, p7, k1, p1, *p1, k1, p7, k1, p2, k1, p7, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, p1, k1, p7, k1, p3.
Row 53: K3, p1, k1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, p1, k1, *k1, p1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, p1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k1, p1, k3.
Row 54: Repeat Row 52.
Row 55: K3, p1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k1, p1, k1, *k1, p1, k1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, p1, k2, p1, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, p1, k1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, p1, k3.
Row 56: Repeat Row 52.
Row 57: K3, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k2, p1, k1, *k1, p1, k2, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k2, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k2, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, p1, k2, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k3.
Row 58: P8, k1, p2, k1, p1, *p1, k1, p2, k1, p12, k1, p2, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, p1, k1, p2, k1, p8.
Row 59: K2, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1, *k1, p1, k2, p1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k1, p1, k2, p1, [yo, ssk] 3 times, k2.
Leave stitches on hold on needles. Do not cut yarn.
Go on to Edging section, below.
CLIMBING ROSE PANEL: CHART
NOTE: New to reading charts? Unravel the mysteries with our Reading A Chart Tutorial!
Starting in the bottom right corner of the Chart below, work right-side (odd number) rows from right to left and wrong-side (even number) rows from left to right.
Work up the chart from Row 1 to Row 12 for Beginning, then work Rows 13–44 of Repeating Section 16 total times (piece measures 67½ inches from cast-on edge at this point), then work Rows 45-59 for Ending. Be sure to place removable stitch markers on first and last stitch of Row 31 each time you work it. They will be helpful when it comes time to pick up stitches for the Edging.
KEY
CHART
NOTE: Want to see it bigger? Download this chart (and key) as a PDF!
Leave stitches on hold on needles. Do not cut yarn.
Go on to Edging section, below.
EDGING
PICK UP STITCHES
Note: For some tips on picking up, please visit our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial.
With right side facing you and longer circular needles, pick up and knit 20 stitches evenly from top left corner to first removable marker, [pick up and knit 22 stitches to next removable marker] 15 times, pick up and knit 22 stitches to next corner, place marker (pm). [372 stitches picked up]
Rotate piece 90 degrees clockwise and continuing with same needles, skip first cast-on stitch, pick up and knit one stitch in every cast-on stitch to last stitch, skip last cast-on stitch, pm for corner. [46 (134) stitches picked up; 418 (506) stitches on needles]
Rotate piece 90 degrees clockwise and continuing with same needles, [pick up and knit 22 stitches to removable marker] 15 times, pick up and knit 20 stitches to corner, pm. [372 stitches picked up; 790 (878) stitches on needles]
Rotate piece 90 degrees clockwise and continuing with same needles, work on-hold stitches, k2tog, *k6, [p1, k2] 3 times, p1, k6, repeat from * 1 (5) more time(s), ssk. [46 (134) stitches worked; 836 (1012) total stitches]
Remove all removable markers, place a unique marker and join for working in the round.
Continue to Ribbed Edging either from Written Instructions or Chart, both below.
RIBBED EDGING: WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS
Round 1: *[P1, k1] 2 times, p2, k2, **[p1, k2] 2 times, p2, [k1, p1] 2 times, k2, [p1, k1] 2 times, p2, k2, repeat from ** 15 more times, [p1, k2] 2 times, p2, [k1, p1] 2 times, slip marker (sm), k2, pm, [p1, k1] 2 times, p2, k2, ***[p1, k2] 2 times, p2, [k1, p1] 2 times, k2, [p1, k1] 2 times, p2, k2, repeat from *** 0 (4) more times, [p1, k2] 2 times, p2, [k1, p1] 2 times, pm, k2, sm, repeat from * 1 more time.
Round 2: *[P1, k1] 2 times, p2, k2, **[p1, k2] 2 times, p2, [k1, p1] 2 times, k2, [p1, k1] 2 times, p2, k2, repeat from ** to 12 stitches before next marker, [p1, k2] 2 times, p2, [k1, p1] 2 times, sm, byo (see Notes), k2, yo, sm, repeat from * 3 more times. [8 stitches increased]
Round 3: [Work in established pattern (knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches) to next marker, sm, k1, byo, k2, yo, k1 through the back loop (tbl), sm] 4 times. [8 stitches increased]
Round 4: [Work in established pattern to next marker, sm, k2, byo, k2, yo, k1 tbl, k1, sm] 4 times. [8 stitches increased]
Round 5: [Work in established pattern to next marker, sm, k2, p1, k2, p1tbl, k2, sm] 4 times.
Round 6: [Work in established pattern to next marker, sm, k2, p1, byo, k2, yo, p1, k2, sm] 4 times. [8 stitches increased]
Round 7: [Work in established pattern to next marker, sm, k2, p1, k1, byo, k2, yo, k1tbl, p1, k2, sm] 4 times. [8 stitches increased]
Round 8: [Work in established pattern to next marker, sm, k2, p1, k1, p1, byo, k2, yo, p1tbl, k1, p1, k2, sm] 4 times. [8 stitches increased]
Round 9: [Work in established pattern to next marker, sm, k2, (p1, k1) 2 times, k2, k1tbl, (p1, k1) 2 times, k1, sm] 4 times.
Round 10: [Work in established pattern to next marker, sm, k2, (p1, k)] 2 times, byo, k2, yo, (k1, p1) 2 times, k2, sm] 4 times. [8 stitches increased]
Round 11: [Work in established pattern to next marker, sm, k2, (p1, k1) 2 times, p1, byo, k2, yo, p1tbl, (k1, p1) 2 times, k2, sm] 4 times. [8 stitches increased]
Round 12: [Work in established pattern to next marker, sm, k2, (p1, k1) 2 times, p2, byo, k2, yo, p1tbl, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1, sm] 4 times. [8 stitches increased]
Round 13: [Work in established pattern to next marker, sm, k2, (p1, k1) 2 times, p2, k3, k1tbl, p2, (k1, p1) 2 times, k2, sm] 4 times.
Round 14: [Work in established pattern to next marker, sm, k2, (p1, k1) 2 times, p2, k1, byo, k2, yo, k1, p2, (k1, p1) 2 times, k2, sm] 4 times. [8 stitches increased]
Round 15: [Work in established pattern to next marker, sm, k2, (p1, k1) 2 times, p2, k1, p1, byo, k2, yo, p1tbl, k1, p2, (k1, p1) 2 times, k2, sm] 4 times. [8 stitches increased]
Round 16: [Work in established pattern to next marker, sm, k2, (p1, k1) 2 times, p2, k1, p1, k3, k1tbl, p1, k1, p2, (k1, p1) 2 times, k2, sm] 4 times.
Continue to Finishing, below.
RIBBED EDGING: CHART
Begin this chart in the bottom right corner. Read all rows right to left, working to 22-stitch repeat then repeating 22-stitch repeat until indicated number of stitches before next marker, then working corner stitches to next marker. After corner stitches, sm, and repeat same row of chart 3 more times to end of round. Work Rounds 1-16 one time.
KEY
CHART
NOTE: Want to see it bigger? Download this chart (and key) as a PDF and scroll to the second page!
Continue to Finishing, below.
FINISHING
Bind off all stitches in pattern.
Weave in all ends and gently wet block finished piece.
LEARN ABOUT GOOD WOOL + ALL OUR BEAUTIFUL YARNS
Good Wool adds loads of character, beauty, and integrity to this knit! A sport-weight yarn whose lofty 2-ply spin can also bloom into a light worsted/DK-weight yarn, Good Wool is made from 100% Andean highland wool, a toothy fiber with a deeply natural appeal. This yarn has a spectacular palette of complex and subtly varied colors, including 5 undyed shades. Very close to the hearts of our customers, Good Wool is a true knitter’s yarn!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our vast collection of (mostly free!) Good Wool knitting patterns and cast on!
More Sport-Weight Yarns + Light Worsted/DK-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of sport-weight yarn
- Shop our entire collection of light worsted/DK-weight yarn
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop wool yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I loved the look of it, and it seemed a logical and straight-forward pattern… until I read it. Too much for me, I fear. Still beautiful!
Hi Jan!
Thank you so much! While this pattern does include some more involved techniques, we hope you give it a try. We are always here to help if you need us!
All the best,
Margaret
This is a beautiful pattern. I can see this as a throw as well. Do you have any hints to convert to a throw to determine needed yardage?
Hi Kathy!
Thank you for your comment! To adjust this pattern for a throw size, all you’ll need to do is make a larger climbing rose panel. Since this panel is worked over a multiple of 22 stitches plus 26, you can use your gauge swatch to determine how many stitches per inch you are getting, and multiply that number by your desired width of the panel in inches (keep in mind the edge ribbing will add a few inches on either side, too!), and round to the nearest multiple of 22 + 26. For a 50″ wide central panel, for example, you would cast on 290 stitches.
As for yardage, that will depend on your desired width, but for a 50″ x 74″ blanket, you would need 11 skeins. To calculate the number of skeins needed for a different width, you can multiply your adjusted width by 6 and divide that total by 28.25.
I hope this helps with your project planning!
All the best,
Margaret
Oh my goodness – this is so perfect! I can’t wait to begin planning this project. Again a beautiful pattern. Thank you!
You are very welcome, Kathy!
Happy knitting,
Margaret
I would absolutely love to see you do a YouTube tutorial of the pattern, parts are very confusing, but I’m just dying to make this
Hi Roxane,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m afraid that we do not currently have the time and resources to make a full tutorial on this pattern. We’re sorry about that!
But I’m happy to help clarify any of the confusing spots. Can you let me know what sections or aspects of this pattern are particularly confusing to you?
All the best,
Lili
Beautiful pattern, with a great opportunity to learn new techniques Is there a possibility this could be done as a Knit Along?
Hi Fran!
Thank you so much for your suggestion! We appreciate your interest in this pattern as a potential Knit-Along, and I have passed your note to our team.
We’re so glad to hear this wrap caught your eye, and thank you again for writing in!
All the best,
Margaret
Totally going out of my favorite palette of lavender blues and raspberry red, I have ordered 3 skeins of Apple Cider to make the scarf.
Even more out of my usual (I have done the Striped Triangle Garter Wrap over the summer) I am going to try to knit this.
It seems to require some serious concentration, but worth a try, if I find it too difficult, the yarn won’t be wasted, I’ll find an easier pattern.
I do like Purl Soho.
Hi,
This feels like a silly question, but it notes both a scarf and a wrap version. Are both knit on circular needles? Or is the scarf knit flat while the wrap is knit in the round? It seems as though the pattern is for knitting in the round…
A little confused on directions! Thank you for the help! It’s a beautiful pattern!
Hi Keri,
Thanks for reaching out. Both the scarf and wrap versions of this pattern are knit flat! We recommend using a circular needle, especially for the wrap, because it is too wide to fit on straight needles. The stitches will keep falling off! But with a circular needle, the stitches can sit comfortable on the cord, so you don’t have to worry about losing them. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Is there a way to work the edging into the pattern without having to go back and pick up stitches?
Hi Robin,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m afraid that there isn’t a way to work the edging into the pattern! If you’d like to knit it all in one piece, then you could add a different style of edging, but it will look different, since the stitches will all be facing the same direction, instead of radiating out from the central stitch pattern of the wrap.
All the best,
Lili
I would love to make this but I’m confused on the quantity. do I order 3 or (6)?
thanks,
Camilla
Hi Camilla,
Thanks for reaching out! You’ll need 3 skeins to make the narrower Scarf version of this pattern, or 6 skeins for the wider Wrap version. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I’ve finally finished the panel portion of this and am moving on to the edging section. I’ve watched the pickup tutorial and have maybe a silly question. Is there a difference between “pick up” (like in the videos) and “pick up and knit”? If there is, could you explain what knit? Thank you!
Hi Anjya,
Thanks for writing in! The phrases “pick up” and “pick up and knit” are generally used interchangeably. Many knitters use “pick up” to mean all the steps involved in picking up a stitch, which includes knitting it. But other knitters might specify the knitting step and say “pick up and knit” instead. Most of the time (including in this pattern), they mean exactly the same thing, and do include the knitting step!
All the best,
Lili