Paula Pereira For Purl Soho: Daily Pullover
Over the past 14 months have you turned again and again to just the few items of clothing you love, parting with them only for as long as it takes to clean them? Paula Pereira‘s Daily Pullover is designed to be on that list of “clothes I’d quarantine in,” otherwise known as “keepers.”
Paula designs her classic hand knits from her home in São Paolo, but this sweater is at home anywhere, anytime. A flattering cropped length keeps it comfy, while a deep V with wide ribbing and neat raglan increases give the Daily Pullover its smarts.
Knit from the top down in one piece, you start the Daily Pullover at the neckline and work your way to the bottom ribbing, then go back and knit the sleeves in the round and pick up for the neckband. Thoughtful short rows along the way ensure a good fit!
And the beauty of it all? Linen Quill, of course! Our fine highland wool, alpaca, and linen blend is always our first choice for knitting favorite things. A nice, light fingering weight, a beautiful drape, and 55 mind-blowing colors to come from? We’ll take that any day!
Designed for Purl Soho by Paula Pereira.
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoDailyPullover, and #PurlSohoLinenQuill. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 3 (3, 3, 3, 4) (4, 4, 5, 5) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein is 439 yards/100 grams; approximately 930 (1030, 1125, 1255, 1365) (1495, 1660, 1825, 1975) total yards required. We used the colors Stonewall Gray and Mountain Bluebird.
- US 3 (3.25 mm), 24-inch circular needles
- US 3, 32- or 40-inch circular needle, depending on size you are making
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 32- or 40-inch circular needles, depending on size you are making
- A set of US 3 double pointed needles
- A set of US 4 double pointed needles
- US E (3.5 mm) crochet hook (for Provisional Cast On)
- A yard or two of smooth scrap yarn (for Provisional Cast On)
- Stitch markers
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A Daily Pullover Pattern
Gauge
24 stitches and 34 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch with larger needles
Sizes
NOTE: Need help deciding on a size? Check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
34 (37¼, 41¼, 45¼, 49¼) (53¼, 57¼, 61¼, 65¼)
To fit actual chest circumference of approximately 28–32 (31–35, 35–39, 39–43, 43–47) (47–51, 51–55, 55–59, 59–63) inches with 2–6 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 34 (37¼, 41¼, 45¼, 49¼) (53¼, 57¼, 61¼, 65¼) inches
- Finished Length From Shoulder To Back Bottom Edge: 19¼ (20, 20½, 21¼, 21½) (22¼, 23½, 24¼, 25) inches
- Finished Sleeve Length From Underarm: 17 (17¼, 17½, 17½, 18) (18, 18, 18½, 19) inches
Samples: Stonewall Gray sweater shown here is size 37¼, and Mountain Bluebird one is size 41¼, worn with 5 inches of ease
Pattern
The Daily Pullover is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
Hello! I am having a hard time following the yoke increase section. It seems like some of the instructions might be missing or the repeating sections of the pattern are not clear. Hoping to get some clarify so I can knit this fabulous sweater!
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for reaching out! All of the instructions for the yoke are there and not missing, but it is broken up into different sections depending on the size you are making! If you let me know what size you are working on I can explain the instructions further.
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi
I purchased this pattern from Purl Soho
maybe a month ago. Has there been an update or correction
for the size small 34? Neckband stitch count right before starting the ribbing and after picking up will not work out as written.
Thank you for any help
lisa
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! There have not been any errata added for this pattern, and I believe that the stitch counts as written should be accurate for the Neckband section. If you could write to us at customerservice@purlsoho.com letting us know what stitch count you’re getting that isn’t matching up, we would be more than happy to help figure out what’s going on!
All the best,
Kelsey
Can this be knitted in cattail silk?
Hi Sara,
Thanks for reaching out! You could certainly knit this piece using Cattail Silk! I would just encourage you to work up a gauge swatch before beginning your sweater, to ensure that you are using the appropriate needle size to match the gauge called for in the pattern. It’s also important to remember that the Cattail Silk will have a very different feel and drape than the Linen Quill; silk is a very inelastic fiber, so it won’t be as buoyant or springy as the Linen Quill will be, but it will give you a wonderful, lightweight fabric that’s perfect for summer!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Thank you. Very helpful!
Sara
I don’t understand the instructions for yoke size 45 1/2
Row 4
I understand how to do the increases but ……?
When do I do them
Row 3 was clear.
Carol
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! For row 4 of the yoke, you will start by Purling 2, then you will M1R (increase) purlwise (see Special Instructions), then you will purl to last 2 stitches (slipping markers as you come to them), M1L (increase) purlwise (see Special Instructions) then purl the last 2 stitches. You then should have 94 stitches.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Thank you
Like another knitter, I would like to knit Daily Pullover in cattail silk. I will definitely knit a swatch to check gauge, but before that, I’m not sure if how many skeins of cattail silk I should purchase. Would it be the same number of yards as written for Linen Quill? Thank you.
Joanne
Hi Joanne,
Thanks for reaching out! I think Cattail Silk will be perfect for this Pullover! The Cattail Silk skeins actually have quite a few more yards than Linen Quill, so you will need fewer skeins than listed! For this pattern you need 930 (1030, 1125, 1255, 1365) (1495, 1660, 1825, 1975) yards depending on the size you are making, so you will need 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) (3, 3, 3, 4) skeins of Cattail Silk!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I am knitting this sweater and am the section for the neckband. 2 questions:
1. For Round 2 the decrease directions are s2kp, but for Round 3 the directions are sk2p. Is that correct?
2. In Round 3 after the decrease, should there be a p1 before beginning the k1p1 ribbing?
Hi Cynthia,
Thanks for reaching out! The Neckband section of the pattern is correct as written, rounds 2 and 3 both have the sk2p, and round 3 is also correct: *K1, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before marked stitch, k1, remove marker, sk2p, **k1, p1, repeat from ** to end of round. [2 stitches decreased] this creates the line at the center front of the neckline for this sweater! Keep in mind that the neckband is worked in the round and you are only knitting over the right side of the fabric!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Hi, I’m just at this point now. What Cynthia is saying is that the pattern says round 2 S2KP, but for round 3 it says SK2P, the 2 and the K are transposed, but the instructions are only for S2KP, no mention of SK2P. Also, after my S2KP I’m at a purl stitch, so continuing with a knit stitch doesn’t seem right. Anyway it looks ok so far, but hoping I don’t have to rip back… using black linen quill certainly hides stuff!
Hi Wendy,
Thanks for reaching out. It sounds like you’re reading from an outdated version of this pattern! The sk2p is indeed a typo and should be s2kp. We corrected this error in a recent update, and you can access the most up-to date pattern be re-downloading it from your Purl Soho account. I hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
Would Season Alpaca work for this?
Hi Kristina,
Thanks for reaching out! Season Alpaca is a sport weight yarn, so it is quite a bit thicker than Linen Quill and would require some adjustments to the pattern. I would recommend instead one of our other fingering weight yarns like Line Weight or Posy! You can also check out our full selection of fingering weight yarns here: Fingering Weight Yarn
I would also recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to insure you are consistent with the pattern.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Greetings, is there a specification for size 49 1/4 missing at the Neckline and Raglan Increase Row section? All the other sizes have specific instructions.
Hi Andrea,
Thanks for reaching out! Nothing is missing from the instructions, and the size 49 1/4 does not have an additional increase section. After you finish working through the ALL SIZES part under the Yoke section you will move directly onto the Divide Sleeves From Body + Cast On For Underarms SIZES 34, 41 1/4, 45 1/4, AND 49 1/4 ONLY section!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Thank you! Reassuring to get your super speedy and attentive response. Have a wonderful holiday season.
I am working size 49 1/4. I have just completed “Divide Sleeves from body..” section. In order to work “Continue Neckline Increases” section, do I have to attach another ball of yarn to work that section? Otherwise I feel I would be joining the fronts.
Thank you in advance for any clarification.
Hi Jeanette,
Thanks for reaching out. You definitely do not need to attach another ball of yarn at this point! Just make sure to keep working flat and not join your knitting in the round yet. (You’ll join it in the round for the Join Fronts section.) Hope this helps make things clearer!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, just about to cast on this project and am using the Linen Quill. Can I use a thicker yarn to do the provisional cast on or does it have to be similar weight to LQ? I tried with thinner yarn and it’s a bit fiddly, so would prefer to use a thicker yarn for the cast on. Thanks
Hi Wendy,
Thanks for reaching out! You can certainly use a slightly thicker yarn for the cast on, but I wouldn’t recommend going too thick, so that the stitches dint get too stretched.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I am working the hem ribbing in Linen Quill. I prefer to have the bottom of the sweater hang straight rather than the slight indent with the ribbing so I am knitting the ribbing on the same size needles as the body. I’m not entirely happy about the way the ribbing links for two reasons which I’m hoping you can help with. First the ribbing on the from of the sweater looks larger and loopier than the neater ribbing on the inside of the knit. Could this be because I’m using the same size needle? Also, if I went down a needle size for the ribbing could I block the bottom hem to keep the sides straight? Is there a way to knit the ribbing with the inside facing outward? Thanks for any help you can provide.
Hi Nadine,
Thanks for writing in. I think you could consider doing twisted ribbing for the hems, instead of normal ribbing! This stitch pattern will actually solve both of your problems with the pattern. Twisted ribbing is naturally less stretchy than typical ribbing, and because of this, it will hang much straighter (and any indent can easily be corrected with blocking). Second, twisted ribbing also looks way less “loopy,” since the legs of each stitch are crossed in front of each other. I hope this helps–I often substitute twisted ribbing into patterns for just these reasons!
All the best,
Lili
Thank-you Lili –
I love this solution and it sounds like the twisted rib will be useful for other projects as well.
Nadine
Hello,
I feel the same way about ribbing like Nadine, I also like the straight hanging of a lightweight pullover. I love the twisted rib solution, but do I use the same size needle (I would think) or do I go down a size?
Thanks,
Micky
Hi Micky,
For the twisted rib solution, you would use the same size needle instead of going down a size.
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
I’m thinking of doing this in 2 colors. V ribbing and cuffs, hem in a 2nd color. I haven’t seen any projects done like this. Any tips?
Hi AnnMarie,
Thanks for writing in. I think that’s a great idea, and it will be easy to add to this sweater. You can simply switch colors once you reach the cuffs and hem. And for the neckline, you can pick up the stitches with the new color and continue with that! Hope this helps.
All the best,
Lili
I have been knitting for years and find this pattern very hard to follow. The instructions are not clear! Please redo.
Hello,
Thank you for reaching out about this. We’re so sorry to hear that you’re having trouble understanding this pattern though! We’d be happy to answer any questions you have about it or clarify any portions for you. Can you let us know what spots in particular are confusing?
I also want to recommend our 1-On-1 Project Help as another option for getting pattern support! You can follow the link to sign up for a Zoom session with someone on our team where you can bring up all your questions and concerns about this pattern.
I’ll keep an eye out for your reply, and then I can absolutely help clarify the instructions!
All the best,
Lili
I’m ready to start knitting this pullover….is there a support group anywhere (Ravelry)?? I feel more confident when I can reach out when things are fuzzy.
Thanks,
Micky
Hi Micky,
Thank you for your question! While we currently do not have a Knit-Along or knitting group for this pattern, we are always here via email (Customerservice@purlsoho.com) and over a 1-on-1 Project Zoom if you find yourself needing some help with this pattern!
We encourage you to give it a try and we are here to help if you have any questions along the way.
All the best,
Margaret
I have done the set up row for the Yoke and have 72 stitches (size 41 1/4). I am ready to begin Row 1 after which I should have 82 stitches according to the pattern. I can only account for an increase of 6 stitches after doing Row 1 which would give me 78 stitches not 82. Why am I not finding a 10 stitch increase in the row rather than a 6 stitch increase?
Hi Anita!
Thank you for your question. In Row 1 of the yoke, you will be repeating the instructions inside of the brackets three times, which means that the increased stitches will break down like this:
Kfb (+1), M1R (+1), sm, knit 2, sm, M1L (+1), knit to next marker, M1R (+1), sm, knit 2, sm, M1L (+1), knit across back to next marker, M1R (+1), sm, knit 2, sm, M1L (+1), knit to next marker, M1R (+1), sm, knit 2, sm, M1L (+1), kfb (+1)
Each of the (+1)s represent an increase, for a total of 10 increased stitches and 82 stitches on your needles.
I hope this helps you get back on track in your sweater!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi I prefer to do German short rows vs wrap and turn. Will it change the design or drape if I do German short rows. ? Just hate tinking. Thanks
Jodi
Hi Jodi,
Thanks for writing in. You can absolutely use German short rows instead of wrap + turn short rows, and it will not change the design or drape of the pattern at all! All you’ll need to do to make this modification is knit one additional stitch before making the double stitch. So if the pattern says “knit until 3 stitches remain, wrap and turn,” you’ll actually need to “knit until 2 stitches remain, make double stitch.”
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi
I really like the contrast version just posted on instagram. For size 37 1/4 would I need 3 skeins of the main color and 1 of the contrasting? Prefer to confirm before I order all the way from Switzerland 😉😊
Thank you and have a nice day
Lula
Hi Lula,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m glad that version caught your eye! Yes, I would recommend purchasing 3 skeins of the main color and 1 of the contrast color. You may be able to get away using just 2 skeins of the main color and 1 of the contrast, but I wouldn’t risk that, especially since you’re ordering from Switzerland! If you do end up with an extra unused skein though, you can return it to us in exchange for store credit, or save it for a future project. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I am a beginner in terms of knitting in the round. Was hoping to crack it with this pattern, but I am afraid I am failing math first hurdle. Let me copy and paste the beginning of the pattern.
Back Neckline
Use a Provisional Cast On to cast 64 (66, 72, 74, 80) (82, 86, 92, 100) stitches onto larger 32- or 40-inch circular needles. Do not join for working in the round.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to end of row. Row 2 (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
SHAPE BACK NECKLINE
Short Row 1 (right side): K38 (39, 42, 43, 46) (47, 49, 52, 56) stitches, wrp-t.
So it says at the end of first instruction, don’t join it for knitting in the round. So when do I join it? Is it at the beginning of the third set of instructions :
“Yoke
Set-Up Row (wrong side):” Thanks. Trish
Hi Trish,
Thanks for reaching out! In this pattern, you actually won’t join your work in the round until much further on in the pattern: the “Join Fronts” section on page 5. This is because the design has a deep V-neck, so you will work flat until it’s time to join the V-neck at the bottom point and continue knitting the body of the sweater. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
That does. Thanks so much Lili for your help.
Hello,
I’m worried about the armhole being tight since my row gauge is off. If I knit more rows before dividing sleeves from body, am I supposed to do more raglan increases? Or do I just knit evenly without increasing? How would these affect the v-neckline?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Hi Eleanor,
Thanks for writing in! I’d recommend just knitting a few more rows without any raglan increases, but keeping with the neckline increases. That way, the neckline still has an even slope, and you also still have the correct number of stitches for the back, front, and sleeves of the pullover! You can stop working the neckline increases and join fronts once each of your front sections has the correct amount of stitches for the size you’re making–and this will happen at an earlier point than where it happens in the pattern, since you’re adding extra rows.
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
After knit 10 rounds.
For decreasing sleeves – K1, knit 2 tog, knit to last 3 stitches, slip slip knit, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
But is the total 3 stitches decreased for the row?
Hi Andrea,
Thanks for writing in! On each Decrease Round during the sleeves, you will only be decreasing by 2 stitches. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, my lovely sweater is much wider than intended – obviously, my gauge is way off. I’m now lengthening the body for a “tunic” style and would like advice about edging and binding off – trying for a flat (and perhaps side slits) rather than cinched ribbing. Appreciate your insights!
Hi Andrea,
I think that a knit hem would be a lovely way to finish this sweater! It’ll lay flat and won’t cinch in like ribbing. If you’re unfamiliar with this technique, I’d recommend taking a look at our tutorial on it. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Please clarify the directions for the ribbed neckband. A couple of knitters on this thread mentioned that the stitch immediately following the S2kp in Round 3 is a purl stitch which I also have. The replies to these women did not address how to proceed in this case. I don’t understand how to continue the **K1P1**pattern when the stitch to be worked is a purl stitch. A help session at my lys could not explain the instructions for the neckband. I would appreciate your help. Thanks!
Hi Anita,
Thanks for writing in! I’ve taken a closer look at the pattern, and there does seem to be a small error on Round 2, which throws off the pattern of the 1 x 1 ribbing. Our design team is in the process of editing the pattern to correct this error, but I wanted to give you some steps to move forward in the meantime!
Right after working the s2kp on Round 2, you will indeed work a purl stitch to maintain the 1 x 1 ribbing. That will fix any oddities you’re encountering on Round 3 as well! On Round 3, you should have a knit stitch on either side of the s2kp.
I hope this helps clarify things, and once we finish editing the pattern PDF, you can re-download it from your Purl Soho account to access the updated version. Thank you again for bringing this to our attention!
All the best,
Lili
I do not see that the PDF has yet been revised to correct the error noted in row 2 of the neckline. Please advise.
Hi Tanya,
Thanks for reaching out! I can confirm that this error has been fixed. If you haven’t done so already, I’d recommend re-downloading the PDF from your account, and that will be the most up-to-date version!
All the best,
Lili
I have my Daily Pullover pattern and my supply of Linen Quill. However, what do I do about biasing when knitting stockinette stitch in Linen Quill? My swatch biases to the left, at the rate of 2 stitches displaced over 17-18 rows (around 2 inches of length). Is there another stitch pattern (simple knit/purl) that you can recommend I use instead of stockinette for the main bodice and sleeves of this pullover? I would love to have some suggestions on how to rescue pattern and yarn.
Thanks very much,
Joan
Hi Joan,
Thanks for writing in. I totally understand how concerning biasing can be, but fortunately you should be able to complete the pattern as written and fix the biasing after the fact! Because of its linen content, Linen Quill responds extremely well to wet blocking. So I’d recommend finishing the pullover in stockinette and making sure to pin it to the correct measurements as you lay it flat to dry. Once dry, the yarn will maintain this position and shouldn’t bias any more!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks so much! I am ready to cast on this evening.
Kind regards,
Joan
I am very confused by the raglan increase row. Row 3. What pattern do you repeat 3x? Are you making one stitch on each side of the 8 markers?
Thank you!
Hi Susan,
Thanks for your question! You’re just repeating what’s in the brackets 3 times, so for SIZES 34, 37 1/4, 41 1/4, AND 45 1/4, that would just be, “[M1R, sm, k2, sm, M1L, knit to next marker]” 3 times. Similarly, for SIZES 49 1/4, 53 1/4, 57 1/4, 60 3/4, AND 65 3/4, you would only be repeating, “[M1R, sm, k2, sm, M1L, knit to next marker]” 3 times. The rest of that line of instructions you can just do once. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
Hi there,
I’ve worked up to the end of raglan increases and my stitch count is way over what it ought to be. Looking at the instructions it looks like I’ve done one more repeat ( i.e. 28 more stitches over 6 rows) than I needed to. The instructions say 9 more repeats, should it be 9 sets in total ? I started with 102 stitches and increased a further 280 giving me 382 instead of 354. I’m really disappointed that this hasn’t been highlighted and corrected, I’m a process knitter and follow directions and this has been a real head scratcher. I’m not sure how to proceed as the raglan looks like it would be too short if I rip it back which makes me wonder if I may be wrong in my interpretation. I’m so disappointed.
I only purchased it a couple of weeks ago.
Hi Annie,
Thanks for reaching out. Are you making size 45 1/2? If so, then the instructions only have you repeat Rows 1 – 6 eight more times, for a total of nine times. I’ve highlighted that in the line below:
Repeat Rows 1–6 two (4, 8, 8, 9, 8, 9, 9, 8) more times. [176 (234, 352, 354, 400) (414, 446, 492, 502) total stitches: 21 (31, 51, 51, 59) (62, 67, 75, 76) stitches for each Front; 30 (42, 66, 66, 74) (76, 82, 90, 92) stitches for each Sleeve; 66 (80, 110, 112, 126) (130, 140, 154, 158) stitches for Back; 2 stitches for each raglan]
I hope this helps clarify things, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
Al the best,
Lili
Hi,
I’m on the Divide Sleeves From Body section, size 451/4. At the end of the sentence it says to, “ Work 3 rows EVEN in stockinette stitch(purl wrong-side rows, and knit right-side rows).”
Does that mean to purl & knit 3 times with a total of 6 rows or just purl, knit purl with a total of 3 rows?
The next section (Continue Neckline Increases) has me starting on a knit row, so I just want to make sure before I continue on.
Thank you so much!
Rhonda
Hi Rhonda,
Thanks for writing in! This instruction means to work 3 total rows: a purl row, a knit row, and a purl row. Then you’ll be able to start on a knit row in the following section!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, I’m a fairly new knitter. I fell in love with this Daily Pullover Pattern so I did purchase the pattern. My size is 45 1/4. The materials tools needed for the sweater has two separate colors: Stonewall gray and mountain bluebird. My question is for my size it calls for three skeins so since there is two separate colors, do I buy six skeins? Thanks
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for reaching out! We designed this sweater in only one color, so you’d only need to use 3 skeins of your chosen color to complete it in that size. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi
Can I eliminate the short rows at the collar?Would I just knit those rows in stockinette?
Hi Anne,
Thanks for writing in! I would not recommend omitting the short row shaping from the neckline of this pattern. While it technically would still fit well without that shaping, I’m afraid that it would be difficult to modify the rest of the pattern if you change this section. If the short rows are daunting though, I’d be happy to help answer any questions you have about them!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, I just started knitting size 37 1/4. I’m an hourglass shape and was thinking about adding some waist shaping once I get to the body. Do you think that would work here? If so, do you have any suggestions or tutorials that you could direct me to? Thanks in advance!
Hi Anna,
Thanks for writing in! It’s so great to hear that you are working on the Daily Pullover! Waist shaping is a great way to customize a pattern but while we’d love to be able to help you with this, I’m afraid these kinds of modifications would be outside the scope of support we can offer at this time. I would like to recommend finding a general video tutorial on youtube that you could reference to make the changes you are interested in.
If you have any other questions, please feel free to let me know!
All the best,
Gavriella
Thank you for your reply, Gavriella! I understand that it’s a more complicated request, so I’ll look on YouTube. 🙂
Hi! Quick question. I’ve started the sweater so many times. Not a new knitter but struggling and want to be sure I’m understanding your intent. When you write “knit to next marker 3 times” does that mean knit through the next three markers? Thanks so much. It’s a beautiful sweater.
Hi Brenda,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, that is correct if that’s the complete instruction but would you mind sharing exactly where in the pattern you are reading from? We just want to be sure we are providing the clearest answer possible to help you get back on track.
If the instruction looks more like this: [M1R, sm, k2, sm, M1L, knit to next marker] 3 times, then you will actually knit everything within the brackets 3 times, not just the ‘knit to marker’ section.
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi. I am having problems with row 1 of the daily pullover 1. Is the first stitch increased by 2 by kfb and m1l? 2. I am confused about the [M1R,SM,K2,SM,M1l, knit to next marker] 3 times It seems like there are not enough markers to do this 3 times.
I’m a beginner and need help
Thanks
Hi Dona,
Thank you for writing in. Your row will increase by 10 sts total after working Row 1 of the YOKE section. You will want to make sure you first work the setup row above this instruction though so that you have all your stitch markers placed before starting that increase row. That way you are all set up to be able to repeat the bracketed “[M1R, sm, k2, sm, M1L, knit to next marker]” section 3 times. I hope that helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella