Porto Blanket
Our Porto Blanket is the most knitting fun you can imagine, and best of all, everyone is invited… Beginners, too! Inspired by the geometric school of Portugal’s azulejo tilework, this free pattern has you knit through 9 engaging stitch patterns, each one building on the skills of the one before it and all culminating in a spectacular mosaic of finely interlocking triangles. And our new Knitting Yarn On A Cone, a whopping 1000 grams of gorgeous merino wool, is just the yarn to complement your craftsmanship!
As intricate as it may look, you only need a handful of beginner-friendly stitches to knit your Porto Blanket. Just some basic knits, purls, simple decreases, yarn overs, and through the back loops, it’s a true testament to the creative power of simple stitches!
Beginners and seasoned knitters alike will savor the novelty of each section while looking forward to the next… And maybe you’ll find a favorite pattern you’d like to use again for a different project!
With its cushiony 4-ply spin, Knitting Yarn gives you clear, crisp stitch definition and marvelously articulated textures across the entire blanket, while 100% New Zealand merino wool makes every inch soft and cozy!
You only need one Knitting Yarn On A Cone to craft your Porto Blanket, which means no skeins to wind and only two ends to weave in when you’re finished. That’s 2,187 yards of happy knitting to look forward to, all with this truly classic light worsted/DK-weight yarn!
We chose to knit our version in warm Heirloom White, but you can choose from an array of blues reminiscent of traditional Portuguese tilework or any of Knitting Yarn On A Cone’s 37 rich and fascinating colors.
This super engaging sampler-style knit gives you a taste of so many different designs, like an inspiring stroll down a street with a different geometric tile pattern on every building. Pick up a cone of Knitting Yarn and cast on for an adventure of beautiful yarn and beautiful stitches!
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Hiromi Glover. See even more of Hiromi’s work on her Instagram!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoPortoBlanket, and #PurlSohoKnittingYarn. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 1 of Purl Soho’s Knitting Yarn On A Cone, 100% merino wool yarn. Each skein of this light worsted/dk-weight yarn is approximately 2,190 yards/1,000 grams; approximately 2,075 total yards required. We used Heirloom White.
- US 6 (4 mm), 40-inch circular knitting needles
- Optional: T-pins, blocking pins, and/or blocking wires
GAUGE
22 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in Knit Little Pyramid Stitch (see Notes)
NOTE: All the patterns used in this blanket have slightly different gauges, but if you can achieve the gauge listed above, your blanket will turn out the correct size!
SIZE
Finished Dimensions: 45 inches wide x 52½ inches tall
NOTES
STITCH MULTIPLE
This pattern is worked over a multiple of 48 plus 8 stitches. (Note that the stitch patterns in each section may technically work over different stitch multiples, but the blanket as a whole works over the multiple stated here.)
KNIT LITTLE PYRAMID STITCH PATTERN (FOR GAUGE SWATCH)
Cast on a multiple of 6 stitches.
Set-Up Row: (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): *K2, p1, k3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): *P2, k3, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 3: *P5, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4: *K1, p5, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 5: *P1, k3, p2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 6: *K3, p1, k2, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1–6 for pattern.
SLIP STITCHES
On right-side rows: Slip stitches purlwise with yarn in back (wyib).
On wrong-side rows: Slip stitches purlwise with yarn in front (wyif).
PATTERN
Cast on 248 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Slip 3 (see Notes), k1, purl to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Work Mixed Triangles Pattern either from Written Instructions or Chart, both below.
MIXED TRIANGLES PATTERN: WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS
SECTION A: Knit Little Pyramid
Row 1 (right side): Slip 3, p1, *k2, p1, k3, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 3, k1, *p2, k3, p1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 3: Slip 3, p1, *p5, k1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 4: Slip 3, k1, *k1, p5, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 5: Slip 3, p1, *p1, k3, p2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 6: Slip 3, k1, *k3, p1, k2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Repeat Rows 1–6 three more times.
SECTION B: Halved Diamond
Row 1 (right side): Slip 3, p1, *k6, p1, k5, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 3, k1, *p5, k1, p6, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 3: Slip 3, p1, *k5, p3, k4, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 4: Slip 3, k1, *p4, k3, p5, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 5: Slip 3, p1, *k4, p5, k3, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 6: Slip 3, k1, *p3, k5, p4, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 7: Slip 3, p1, *k3, p7, k2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 8: Slip 3, k1, *p2, k7, p3, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 9: Slip 3, p1, *k2, p9, k1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 10: Slip 3, k1, *p1, k9, p2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 11: Slip 3, p1, *k1, p11, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 12: Slip 3, k1, *k11, p1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 13: Slip 3, p1, *p1, k11, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 14: Slip 3, k1, *p11, k1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 15: Slip 3, p1, *p2, k9, p1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 16: Slip 3, k1, *k1, p9, k2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 17: Slip 3, p1, *p3, k7, p2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 18: Slip 3, k1, *k2, p7, k3, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 19: Slip 3, p1, *p4, k5, p3, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 20: Slip 3, k1, *k3, p5, k4, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 21: Slip 3, p1, *p5, k3, p4, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 22: Slip 3, k1, *k4, p3, k5, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 23: Slip 3, p1, *p6, k1, p5, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 24: Slip 3, k1, *k5, p1, k6, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Repeat Rows 1–24 one more time.
SECTION C: Eyelet Triangle
Row 1 (right side): Slip 3, p1, knit to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 3, k1, purl to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 3: Slip 3, p1, *k6, knit 2 together (k2tog), [yarn over (yo)] 2 times, slip slip knit (ssk), k6, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 4: Slip 3, k1, *p8, p1 through back loop (p1 tbl), p7, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Rows 5 and 6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Row 7: Slip 3, p1, *k4, [k2tog, (yo) 2 times, ssk] 2 times, k4, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 8: Slip 3, k1, *p6, p1 tbl, p3, p1 tbl, p5, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Rows 9 and 10: Repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Row 11: Slip 3, p1, *k2, [k2tog, (yo) 2 times, ssk] 3 times, k2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 12: Slip 3, k1, *p4, [p1 tbl, p3] 3 times, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Rows 13 and 14: Repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Row 15: Slip 3, p1, *k2tog, (yo) 2 times, ssk, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 16: Slip 3, k1, *p2, p1 tbl, p1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Rows 17 and 18: Repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Repeat Rows 1–18 two more times.
SECTION D: Ribbed Pyramid
Set-Up Row 1 (right side): Slip 3, purl to last 3 stitches, k3.
Set-Up Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 3, knit to last 3 stitches, p3.
Row 1: Slip 3, p1, *p1, k1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 2: Slip 3, k1, *p1, k1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Rows 3 and 4: Repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Row 5: Slip 3, p1, *p2, [k1, p1] 3 times, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 6: Slip 3, k1, *[k1, p1] 3 times, k2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Rows 7 and 8: Repeat Rows 5 and 6.
Row 9: Slip 3, p1, *p3, k1, p1, k1, p2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 10: Slip 3, k1, *k2, p1, k1, p1, k3, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Rows 11 and 12: Repeat Rows 9 and 10.
Row 13: Slip 3, p1, *p4, k1, p3, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 14: Slip 3, k1, *k3, p1, k4, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Rows 15 and 16: Repeat Rows 13 and 14.
Repeat Rows 1–16 two more times.
Repeat Set-Up Rows 1 and 2 one more time.
SECTION E: Large Flag
Row 1 (right side): Slip 3, p1, knit to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 3, k1, *k1, p15, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 3: Slip 3, p1, *k14, p2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 4: Slip 3, k1, *k3, p13, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 5: Slip 3, p1, *k12, p4, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 6: Slip 3, k1, *k5, p11, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 7: Slip 3, p1, *k10, p6, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 8: Slip 3, k1, *k7, p9, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 9: Slip 3, p1, *k8, p8, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 10: Slip 3, k1, *k9, p7, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 11: Slip 3, p1, *k6, p10, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 12: Slip 3, k1, *k11, p5, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 13: Slip 3, p1, *k4, p12, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 14: Slip 3, k1, *k13, p3, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 15: Slip 3, p1, *k2, p14, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 16: Slip 3, k1, *k15, p1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Repeat Rows 1–16 one more time.
SECTION F: Small Flag
Row 1 (right side): Slip 3, p1, knit to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 3, k1, *k1, p7, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 3: Slip 3, p1, *k6, p2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 4: Slip 3, k1, *k3, p5, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 5: Slip 3, p1, *k4, p4, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 6: Slip 3, k1, *k5, p3, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 7: Slip 3, p1, *k2, p6, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 8: Slip 3, k1, *k7, p1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Repeat Rows 1–8 four more times.
SECTION G: Large Flag
Repeat Rows 1–16 of Section E one time.
SECTION H: Stacked Triangles
Set-Up Row (right side): Slip 3, p1, knit to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Slip 3, k1, purl to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 1 (right side): Slip 3, p1, *knit 1 through the back loop (k1 tbl), yo, ssk, p10, k2tog, yo, k1 tbl, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 3, k1, *p1 tbl, p2, k10, p2, p1 tbl, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 3: Slip 3, p1, *k1 tbl, yo, k1, ssk, p8, k2tog, k1, yo, k1 tbl, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 4: Slip 3, k1, *p1 tbl, p3, k8, p3, p1 tbl, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 5: Slip 3, p1, *k1 tbl, yo, k2, ssk, p6, k2tog, k2, yo, k1 tbl, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 6: Slip 3, k1, *p1 tbl, p4, k6, p4, p1 tbl, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 7: Slip 3, p1, *k1 tbl, yo, k3, ssk, p4, k2tog, k3, yo, k1 tbl, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 8: Slip 3, k1, *p1 tbl, p5, k4, p5, p1 tbl, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 9: Slip 3, p1, *k1 tbl, yo, k4, ssk, p2, k2tog, k4, yo, k1 tbl, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 10: Slip 3, k1, *p1 tbl, p6, k2, p6, p1 tbl, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 11: Slip 3, p1, *k1 tbl, yo, k5, ssk, k2tog, k5, yo, k1 tbl, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 12: Slip 3, k1, *p1 tbl, p14, p1 tbl, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Repeat Rows 1–12 two more times.
SECTION I: Purl Little Pyramid
Row 1 (right side): Slip 3, p1, *p2, k1, p3, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 3, k1, *k2, p3, k1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 3: Slip 3, p1, *k5, p1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 4: Slip 3, k1, *p1, k5, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 5: Slip 3, p1, *k1, p3, k2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 6: Slip 3, k1, *p3, k1, p2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Repeat Rows 1–6 one more time.
SECTION J: Flying Geese
Row 1: Slip 3, p1, *k1, p5, k5, p1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 2: Slip 3, k1, *k2, p4, k4, p2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 3: Slip 3, p1, *k3, p3, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 4: Slip 3, k1, *k4, p2, k2, p4, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 5: Slip 3, p1, *k5, p1, k1, p5, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k3.
Row 6: Slip 3, k1, *k6, p6, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Row 7: Repeat Row 5.
Row 8: Repeat Row 4.
Row 9: Repeat Row 3.
Row 10: Repeat Row 2.
Row 11: Repeat Row 1.
Row 12: Slip 3, k1, *p6, k6, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, p3.
Repeat Rows 1–12 one more time.
Repeat Rows 1–11 one more time.
Last Row (wrong side): Slip 3, k6, p1, *k11, p1, repeat from * to last 10 stitches, k7, p3.
SECTION K: Halved Diamond
Repeat Rows 1–24 of Section B once, then repeat Rows 1–12 one more time.
SECTION L: Knit Little Pyramid
Repeat Rows 1–6 of Section A 3 times.
Go on to Finishing, below.
MIXED TRIANGLES PATTERN: CHARTS
NOTE: New to reading charts? Unravel the mysteries with our Reading a Chart Tutorial.
Starting in the bottom right corner of the Charts below, work right-side (odd number) rows from right to left and wrong-side (even number) rows from left to right.
For Section A, reading the Knit Little Pyramid chart, work Rows 1–6 four times.
For Section B, reading the Halved Diamond chart, work Rows 1–24 two times.
For Section C, reading the Eyelet Triangle chart, work Rows 1–18 three times.
For Section D, reading the Ribbed Pyramid chart, work Set-Up Rows 1 and 2, then work Rows 1–16 three times, then work Set-Up Rows 1 and 2 one more time.
For Section E, reading the Large Flag chart, work Rows 1–16 two times.
For Section F, reading the Small Flag chart, work Rows 1–8 five times.
For Section G, reading the Large Flag chart, work Rows 1–16 once.
For Section H, reading the Stacked Triangles chart, work Set-Up Rows 1 and 2, then work Rows 1–12 three times.
For Section I, reading the Purl Little Pyramid chart, work Rows 1–6 two times.
For Section J, reading the Flying Geese chart, work Rows 1–12 two times, then repeat Rows 1–11 one more time, then work Last Row.
For Section K, reading the Halved Diamond chart, work Rows 1–24, then repeat Rows 1–12 one more time.
For Section L, reading the Knit Little Pyramid chart, work Rows 1–6 three times.
KEY
SECTIONS A + L: Knit Little Pyramid
SECTIONS B + K: Halved Diamond
SECTION C: Eyelet Triangle
SECTION D: Ribbed Pyramid
SECTIONS E + G: Large Flag
SECTION F: Small Flag
SECTION H: Stacked Triangles
SECTION I: Purl Little Pyramid
SECTION J: Flying Geese
NOTE: Want to see it bigger? Download this chart (and key) as a PDF!
FINISHING
With right-side facing you, bind off knitwise.
Weave in the ends and gently wet block to finished dimensions (using T-pins, blocking pins, or blocking wires as needed).
Learn About Knitting Yarn On A Cone + All Our Beautiful Yarns
Knitting Yarn On A Cone is an absolute dream for knitting blankets and garments! A beautiful, ready-to-knit 1000-gram cone of light worsted/DK-weight yarn means that for 2,187 yards of knitting, you’ll only have two ends to weave in… What could be better? Made with 100% beautiful merino wool from New Zealand, Knitting Yarn’s 4-ply spin and toothy feel gives textures, cables, and colorwork incredible stitch definition and cushiony dimension. Need some contrast colors or not quite so much yarn? Shop our collection of Knitting Yarn in 100-gram balls, too!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our vast collection of (mostly free!) Knitting Yarn knitting patterns and cast on!
More Light Worsted/DK-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of light worsted/DK-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop merino wool yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Beautiful pattern. Would this work with your cotton on a cone yarn too? Can I make it smaller by decreasing cast on by 48 stitches ?
Thinking of a baby blanket Thanks for information
Hi Cynthia,
We’re so glad to hear that this blanket has caught your eye! You could certainly make it with Cotton Pure, but because that yarn is thinner than Knitting Yarn (it’s a sport weight yarn while Knitting Yarn is a DK weight), the knit fabric will be looser when knit at the gauge of the pattern. You could also knit it at a tighter gauge though, and it will come out smaller which seems to be what you’re hoping for anyway!
All the best,
Lili
Is this pattern available as a baby blanket?
Hi Carolyn,
I’m afraid that we have only designed this blanket in one size, but you could absolutely adjust the size! To figure out your new cast-on number, you’ll need to multiply the number of stitches per inch (5.5 stitches, according to the gauge of the pattern) by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest multiple of 48 + 8 stitches. Then you can follow the pattern essentially as written! The only other change you would need to make is adjusting for a shorter length. To do that, you can either work each section for a shorter distance, or you can omit sections. Hope this helps you get started!
All the best,
Lili
Your comments have helped me even though the original question wasn’t mine. 🙂 Thank you for putting time and effort into the obviously thoughtful detail of your answers.
You’re very welcome! I’m so glad to hear that you’ve found them so helpful!
All the best,
Lili
This porto blanket pattern is the most beautiful blanket pattern I have ever seen you post. I have ordered cone yarn & can’t wait for it to arrive & start knitting. Thanks to designer Hiromi Glover.
If I wanted to make this wider could I increase by multiples of 48 stitches?
Looks like the repeats would work that way.
Thank you.
Hi Janet,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, you can adjust the width of the blanket by increasing or decreasing by multiples of 48. The overall stitch multiple for this pattern is 48 + 8–the 48 being the pattern repeats, and the 8 for the selvages!
All the best,
Lili
That is beautiful. The cone is genius idea. My nemesis is weaving ends. I am excited about trying this.
This is a beautiful blanket and I’d love to try making it. I’m confused by how many stitches to cast on. It’s a multiple of 48+8 stitches, and I’m to cast on a multiple of 6… does that mean, to make it as you have in the example, I’d start with 56 stitches? And to make it bigger or smaller I’d increase or decrease by a multiple of 48?
Hi Sarah,
So glad to hear you love this blanket pattern! This pattern as a whole is worked over a multiple of 48 + 8 stitches, so you will need to increase or decrease the cast-on number by multiples of 48 if you want to make it larger or smaller. The stitch patterns in each section may technically work over different stitch multiples, but the blanket as a whole works over the multiple stated here! The multiple of 6 cast-on is just for the gauge swatch, since you’re only knitting that in one stitch pattern.
All the best,
Lili
A beautiful blanket. Does it have a right side and wrong side or is it reversible?
Hi Karen,
Thanks for writing in! This pattern does have a right and wrong side that look different from each other. While some of the stitch patterns may be reversible, not all of them are!
All the best,
Lili
I, like several others have a keen desire to make this lovely blanket in baby size! I am happy to buy the full cone, as I can use it for other projects, but would one of you please take the time to create a baby blanket pattern for us? I don’t feel confident enough to work out the reduction Lila suggested. I think it would be a huge success for your many loyal customers and most of us don’t want to take on such a large project — we want to make baby blankets!
Hi Carole,
I’m happy to pass along your interest in a baby blanket size to our design team! In the meantime, could you let me know what specific dimensions (length and width) you’re hoping to knit? I’m happy to work out the calculations for the cast-on number and the yardage for you!
All the best,
Lili
Does the merino wool only comes in the cone. I would like to make the Porto blanket larger. I will buy the cone and any additional yarn needed.
Hi Marina,
You can also buy 100g skeins of Knitting Yarn! Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I’m drawn to the deeper colors of the cones, but worry the pattern might not be as visible. Opinions?
Hi Wendy,
Using a darker color will make the pattern a bit less visible, but it will still be beautiful nonetheless! It should still show up clearly in a well-lit room, and it will be just as visible when viewed up close. Plus the texture will still be present no matter what!
All the best,
Lili
Just wondering if these cones have knotted joins in them? I am just finishing a complicated blanket – Daybreak blanket – with many skeins of yarn and was disappointed to come across several knotted joints in the skeins that happened mid row. Had to rip out the stitches and clip the joint and start a “new” yarn. So many ends to weave in.
Just want to make sure that isn’t going to happen with the cone.
Hi Melissa,
We’re so sorry to hear that you found knots in your yarn in the past! If you found more than one knot per skein, we encourage you to reach out to us directly by sending an email to [email protected] so that we can note the dye lot and rectify the issue.
As some background information, knots can occur when mill workers join new threads or repair breaks during the spinning process. Our quality standard is no more than 3 knots per kilo of yarn, which means that you may occasionally find a knot in your skein or cone. We always aim for better than this though! We work hard with our mills to ensure yarn with as few of these knots as possible, but in truth, knots or joins in yarn are unavoidable.
Each cone of Knitting Yarn is 1kg, so if you find more than 3 knots in it, please don’t hesitate to reach out to us directly. We’ll do everything we can to make things right!
All the best,
Lili
The design reminds me of Islamic geometrics. This is my next project. Currently finishing the Double Knit in colors that remind me of a manta ray.
Me, too! Want to make it for a baby blanket and was thinking of using spirt weight yarn following the same instructions. I would also aim for a washable yarn.
It is a beautiful pattern. For years I have been
looking for ideas for the perfect baby blanket for my first great grandchild who will likely be born long after I am around!
Will the sportweight yarn work?
Hi Liz,
You could definitely use a sport weight yarn for this blanket! Just be sure to knit up a gauge swatch beforehand so that you can adjust the cast-on number. Once you know how many stitches you’re getting per inch, just multiply that number by the width of the blanket and cast on the nearest multiple of 48 + 8 stitches.
All the best,
Lili
What a beautiful intention, Liz! To work on something for a descendent, you may never meet. I love that 🫶🏽.
Is there a pdf of thus blanket pattern?
Hi Vivian,
Thanks for writing in! Here’s how to download a PDF version of any of our free patterns: If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, click on the “PDF” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window. Once your PDF has finished downloading, just click the “Download PDF” button, and it will be saved to your computer! (You can also just click the “Print” button if you’d like to print the pattern.)
All the best,
Lili
Beautiful blanket indeed!
The link to the pdf goes to another pattern. Maybe you can look into that?
Hi Barbara,
That’s very concerning to hear! I tried the download process on my end and got the correct pattern. Would you mind reaching out to us at [email protected] and sending along the PDF of the pattern you downloaded instead? Or some screenshots of what you’re seeing when you try to download the pattern would be incredibly helpful!
I’ll keep an eye out for your message with more information, and then we’ll be able to start troubleshooting from there!
All the best,
Lili
What bind off do you suggest?
Hi Ann,
We used a basic bind-off for this pattern!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, if I used two cones/strands of the Cotton on a Cone would it knit up similar to the wool?
Thx!
Hi Andrea,
Thanks for writing in! I think that two strands of Cotton Pure would end up being thicker than Knitting Yarn. You could absolutely use 1 or 2 strands of Cotton Pure though and just adjust the cast-on number so that the blanket comes to the correct width!
To figure out your new cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width and cast on the nearest multiple of 48 + 8. Then you can follow the pattern essentially as written! The only other change you would need to make is adjusting for the length. To do that, you can either work each section for a shorter/longer distance, or you can omit/add sections.
Hope this helps you get started!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for such a beautiful pattern! Will all these lovely colors that are available in the knitting yarn on a cone be available in the 100g balls eventually? I’m thinking of some smaller projects….
Hi Laura,
Yes, we will be releasing all the new colors in the 100g skeins of Knitting Yarn as well!
All the best,
Lili
Is it possible to knit this using Good Wool? I wonder if it would not be quite as refined as with the merino.
Hi Kim,
Thanks for writing in! Good Wool is thinner than Knitting Yarn, but you could definitely make it work. You could either knit the pattern at the same gauge and have a looser, less dense knit fabric, or you could knit at a tighter gauge and cast on more stitches to make up the width. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili